Glossaand the north of Island The author

Martin Beckett is an internationally renowned photographer who has created campaigns for many clients such as BMW, Cyprus, Deutsche Bank, Volvo, Jersey, Emirates Airlines, Rolls Royce, Bosch etc. His work has been exhibited worldwide and has received numerous awards. He also has been president of UK, European and Worldwide associations of visual artists and campaigns for artist’s rights. His writing has appeared in many magazines and journals and he has been a columnist for The British Journal of Photography and Amateur Photographer and editor of Image Magazine and Fuji Times. He has a home on Skopelos Island.

All text and images copyright © martin beckett/skopelosholidays.com Map by © Tomas Kambouris Not to be reproduced in part or whole without specific authorization. Skopelosholidays.com is a not-for–profit website. SKOPELOS holidays.com Glossa:-a traditional Greek hill village

The island of Skopelos has been divided by its mountainous terrain for thousands of years with Glossa the centre for the north of the island and Skopelos town becoming the capital and main town of the south. A 9 hour long journey by donkey (or a sea voyage) was the only route between the two villages until the 1960’s when they became joined by the new road which now links them in a mere 35 minutes. After centuries of separate development though they still remain distinctly different places, both culturally and visually. With Skopelos taking most of the tourist, commercial and administrative development, Glossa has been allowed to remain remarkably unchanged with a pace and way of life that also reflects a more unhurried time.

3 The surrounding countryside of the north of the island is also known for its unspoiled nature with deep valleys and broadleaf trees, olive groves, fruit orchards and lovely cove like beaches. Tiny lanes take you as far as the lighthouse at Cape Gourouni and to the many small chapels and monasteries as well as the famous Ayios Yiannis church on the rock featured in the film Mamma Mia. While the port of Loutraki just 5 minutes below the village provides ferry access and some waterside eateries, cafes and shops and has a long flat beach. The views from this part of the island are also truly outstanding and are complemented by islands and parts of the mainland, which can be seen in many directions as far as Mt Athos in the north and the island of Skyros in the south. But when you add the spectacular light shows of sunrise, sunset and moonrise to these views then you have a sight that is truly miraculous.

Glossa itself, a village of some 1000 inhabitants, is situated high above the sea facing to the west with views across to the nearby

4 islands of Skiathos and Evvia and to the mainland with its mountain ranges of Mt Parnassos and Mt Pelion clearly visible. Most of the tavernas and restaurants in Glossa take full advantage of these views, but just walking around the steep cobbled lanes gives surprise glimpses along the coast and across the sea which frame the whitewashed houses and tiled roofs. Many of the houses abandoned in the diaspora of the Greek people have a lovely crumbling charm and the amazing painted woodwork of doors and windows often remain untouched by modernisation. Life in the v i l l a g e mostly con- tinues as it has for cen- turies with traditional shops, old men playing b a c k g a m - mon, ladies in black w a s h i n g down the stone steps and the occasional donkey bearing fodder back from the hills all part of the daily scene. Of course the modern world is here too and most of the cafes and tavernas have free wi-fi for customers! The small population, perhaps because of the sunny aspect, are noticeably friendly and happy to see visitors to their lovely hilltop village and a greeting of “kalimera” (good-day) is always responded to.

5 Glossa is in many ways a time capsule as well as a living breathing place - its faded textures and breathtaking views as well as the warmth of its people should be experienced as a part of the real so seldom seen nowadays.

6 GLOSSA - getting around

Glossa is a hill village criss- crossed with alleyways and s t o n e s t e p p e d lanes - it is not designed or suitable for motorcars - it was built with a four footed mode of transport in mind. This doesn’t of course stop the local peo- ple from driving into the village, but it does mean there is very lit- tle traffic and that visitors should not attempt to find their way into the maze of alleyways in cars. The 3 or 4 vans selling fresh fish do wriggle their way around the village though in the mornings shouting about the delights of the catch. “Come and get them - whitebait (gavros) - fat, fresh and delicious..” One of the great pleasures in Glossa is getting lost, just wandering around experiencing the sights and sounds of a real place - a slice of history and a piece of the modern day. The village is small enough to do that without being lost for too long and there are the two large beige coloured churches to navigate by if all else fails!

7 The Outer Village

The main road from Loutraki down to Skopelos skirts the south of the village and provides the first area of activity - the epicentre of which is the sharp bend next to the lower church. This is also the bus stop and the main entrance into the village as Agios Riginos Street leads off from here and is the busiest of the streets. This main road section has the two petrol stations (one at either end), Polychronou’s hardware store, Yannis supermarket, Kira Leni’s bakery and café, To Stekki tou Mastora taverna and the church. Most of which are clustered 50 metres or so in each direction from the main corner.

Coming from Skopelos (just before reaching Glossa) you will first see the sign for the new Shell petrol station - this is just 50 metres off the main road along the lane which leads to Ayios Yannis (the church on the rock). On the left is Platanos Pension - which has rooms to rent. Shortly after this there is a road which forks sharply to the right and upwards - this is the road that goes to the beaches of Perivoliou and Hondro Georgos. Just around the first corner from this turn is Polychroniou’s hardware store which is just 2 sharp

8 bends before the village proper begins with Yannis’s supermarket on the left and then Kira Leni’s bakery and café on the right. 10 metres after the bakery is the turning to the right into the village on Ag Riginos St., but the main road continues downwards after this hairpin bend, which also serves as the bus stop and taxi rank. To the left of the taxi rank is the charcoal grill restaurant “to Stekki tou Mastoras” and then the large church. Continuing down the slope you will find, behind the church, the car park, which is up a ramp, then on the opposite side is the agricultural co-op (handy if you wish to buy a sack of chicken food or a bale of hay!), then the ELIN petrol station. And then the Skopelos Kayaking head- quarters which is opposite Kostas’s repair garage. After which the road goes around a steep bend and continues on to Loutraki just having one café/bar (Piksadi) on the left before it leaves the vil- lage. It should be noted that there is a small lane opposite Kira Leni bakery which is signposted as being both Atheato and Machala (same place different names! to create maximum confusion), this goes down to a tiny little hamlet of traditional houses, many derelict, but nice to stroll around. Agalos’s repair garage is also down this lane.

9 Agios Riginos Street The main street leading up from the bus stop corner takes you into the village proper and is named after the patron saint of the island who was martyred in the 4th century AD. The first point of interest is immediately on the right, which is the periptero or kiosk, normally these are the street corner cabins but in this case it’s a tiny shop, selling cigarettes, newspapers, sweets, drinks etc. There are then old donkey steps leading upwards before the next shop which is the Kontas family electrical shop (which also has an interesting selection of toys and novelty items as well as the electrical things you would expect). Continuing around the corner on the left is Vasillis’s art gallery and next to it a souvenir shop, and on the right a hairdressers should you feel in need of a trim. Next, on your now upwards journey, is Café Bar (and taverna) Maistrali on one side and the desserts, baked goods and home made sweet things shop Nisiotissa on the opposite. Both are just before the village pharmacy on the left. In Greece the pharmacist has a far bigger role to play and often diagnoses complaints as you can buy most medicines here without a prescription. After the pharmacy there is Karvelis bakery, desserts and café on the right just before you get to the little square where Louki Souvlaki is. Louki means drainpipe or spout and just below it is one of the main springs in the village. It’s a nice little square to sit and watch village life go by and opposite is the town hall which in its white 1980’s built style dominates the area. This is where the doctors have a surgery and where Glossa administrative dealings go on. Just after it is the restaurant Agnanti and opposite that is a materials and clothes shop and the florist/plant shop. After Agnanti is Vangelis’s photography and print shop and from then on you are in a residential part of town.

10 Up to the main square

The second church of the village and the main square is up from St Riginos St. Just after Louki Souvlaki there is a steeply sloping side street going parallel with the road but upwards. It’s called Papadiamantis St. after the most famous writer from the Islands. Take this (past the other hairdressers ”Maria”) until you

11 see the street sign Nirvana in front of you and turn right on to it. Almost straight away you will be confronted by a jolly painted blue house with lots of pots of flowers and a lovely old Pithoi (clay urn). Go left at this and then turn right behind it (still on Nirvana St). You will find the tiny butchers shop Illias Spirou on the corner. Turn left there and you will find yourself going up to the square. There is a lane just before the square itself, if you turn left on to it you will find a small supermarket, another Kira Leni bakery, a cigarette/sweet shop and a Glossa ladies collective sweet produce shop, in the square is the other large beige church and t h e café/bar/taverna Ayra. This used to be, until last year, the Café Neon of the village where all the old guys hang out drinking coffee and playing backgammon - worry beads rattling away - it’s now a more modern place but of course the old guys are still there and it’s a real piece of living history.

12 If you continue straight through the square and up a few steps you will come on to another main lane that traverses the village. Turn left and in a few moments you will come to a Pantapoleon (sell everything) shop which has remained the same since the war - and it does sell everything! Continue walking in this direction and you will exit the village after 5 minutes onto the small parking area and the road to the north- ernmost part of the island and the beaches around Perivoulio. However, if you turn right after the square you will come, within a few metres, to the Glossa Folk Museum and the small art gallery opposite it. After that is a tiny Pantapoleon, then the road trails out at the top of the town. The only other area with commercial activity is up the donkey steps you encounter as you enter Ag Riginos Street. At the top you will find Dimitris Supermarket and also Skiathitis Hardware shop. Dimitris sells all the normal supermarket goods but Skiathitis is a modern wonder as you can find everything from goat bells to anchors to kettles and hats. Well actually you wouldn’t be able to find anything as its piled high with boxes unopened for decades. Nicos the owner however, does, and if it’s not there he probably has the bits to make it!

13 Glossa - Food The village has five tavernas/restaurants, all different and all good in their own way, and 4 bakeries - some of which you can eat in. So, the tavernas/restaurants first. To “Stekki tou Mastora” This is a souvla (rotisserie over charcoal) taverna and is situated on the corner at the entrance to the main village and is next to one of the 2 large churches in the village. Its name means “the hangout of the master builder” and is a humorous reference to the hearty food on offer. Georgos does a great trade in his spit roasted meats and normally there is lamb, chicken and pork on offer but sometimes goat or kokkoretsi too and his wife Evangelista cooks other dishes in the ovens everyday (see the blackboard outside for specials), and prepares the salads etc. They have their own small farm just outside the village so often we are treated to their own hand reared meat. It’s a great place to hang-out, as the name implies, as you see all the hustle of people passing by and arriving/leaving the village and also the view is worth travelling for. Open for breakfast and all day but the grill is only in the evenings.

14 To “Stekki tou Mastora”

Café bar “Maistrali”

15 Café bar “Maistrali” From the corner where To Stekki is you take the main lane, (Ayios Riginos St), up into the village and after some 100 metres on your left you will see the sign for this rooftop establishment. Climbing the stairs you will find yourself with yet another staggering view across the Aegean and a choice of home cooked Greek staple dishes. Also operates as a bar and/or a café. A cool place to sit on the warmer days of summer.

“Louki” Souvlaki Continuing up the hill you come to the mini square where “Louki” is situated. This is a traditional Greek souvlaki place serving food either on a plate or wrapped in pitta bread and salads, tzatsiki, chips etc. An affordable and tasty meal, or a snack, or just a drink in this hub of the village enables you to see all the comings and goings of local life. Iyota and Illias run this excellent and friendly little place.

16

“Agnanti” This destination eatery is situated just past Louki 30 metres along the road and has a refined take on Greek food - it is a restaurant as opposed to a taverna. Its newly opened roof terraces are stunning places to eat in the evening and the whole building has a lovely traditional/modern decor. Nicos’s family have been running Agnanti for 60 years’ now and have established it as a “must visit” restaurant. Also there is a bar/cafe and Agnanti is open all day from 11am onwards.

18 ”Ayra” Between “Louki” and “Agnanti” there is a slope leading off upwards and this is the direction to take to get up to the main square of Glossa where this café/bar/taverna is situated. There are only two big churches in the village and so it’s easy to find your way looking for the church and its spire/cross and “Ayra” is right next to the top church. It’s the old café neon of the village which has just been refurbished into a modern café with food. The old men still gather outside to play backgammon and cards but a young couple now run it and it gives life to this lovely village centre. A roof terrace tavern is planned for the near future.

19 Bakeries/Cafe In Greece the bakery is the centre of village life, and until recently (well I remember it happening in the 80’s) most homes didn’t have their own oven and the ladies would bring their trays of food for baking - to the baker to use up the residual heat in his ovens to cook their homemade food. Nowadays this doesn’t happen but people buzz in and out all the time to pick up cheese (Skopelos speciality) or spinach pies, sandwiches, sesame bread rings (kalourhi) or sweet desserts, apple pies and all manner of fancy cakes. Also some bakeries act as café/ bars too and provide a very economical place for a cold beer or a coffee. In Glossa there are three full-blown bakeries and a pies and sweets shop. Kira Leni (Aunty Helen’s) This is a wood fired bakery with a vast range of products from home made liquors to pickled samphire. They make their own pasta and marmalades and just about everything. There are 2 branches in Glossa, one on the main road near the bus stop corner and the other up in the village near the main square. The lower one is also a café and serves from breakfast time onwards.

20

Karvelis Halfway up the main street leading up into the village is this newly extended Karvelis bakery. Now its new shiny shop next to the original bakery sells a large range of colourful cakes and sweets etc as well as the usual range of baked goods. Greeks are great gift givers and you will often see cakes and boxes of sweets being purchased to acknowledge just about any occasion they can dream up! They also have a shop in Loutraki. Café Piksada On the road down towards Loutraki just around the first big bend is the cafeteria Piksada. It has a large terrace with a spectacular view. Nisiotissa On the main street this newly opened shop/café does homemade pies, sweets ,desserts, preserves, etc.

22 Loutraki The port of Glossa

Loutraki (meaning little mineral spring or bathing place) has been occupied for thousands of years and under the name Selinous - or Selenounda - the Romans had a complex of baths here and there are the remains of a temple and an agora still visible. There is an information area at the end of the seafront but not a lot to see in reality.

Its more recent history was as shipbuilding with the wooden boats launched into the calm waters of bay, and as it still is, a port serving Glossa itself and the north of the island. It’s a quiet, sleepy place though punctuated by the bustle of arrivals and departures of ferries and is a haven for yachts and fishermen, providing a tranquil harbour for all.

23 towards Perivoliou Parking & Maritime Museum

A. Parking B. Supermarkets/pantapoleon C. Churches D. Taxi station E. Taxi station F. Pharmacy G. Town Hall H. Blue House

footpath to Loutraki Food Museums 1. To Stekki Tou Masteras 10. Folk 2. Maistrali 11. Painting 3. Louki 4. Agnanti Other 5. Ayra 12. Souvenirs 13. Clothes Bakeries/Cafés 14. Plants 6. Kira Leni 15. Photo/print 7. Nisiotissa 16. Hairdressers 8. Karvelis 17. Butchers 9. Ladies Co-op

SKOPELOS

LOUTRAKI

Most of the rooms (and apartments) to rent and the small hotels in the area are based here and there are 3 cafes, 4 tavernas and a bar/nightclub currently operating as well as ticket offices, car hire, a small supermarket and a bakery serving those that stay and those who are passing through.

It is an adjunct of Glossa and the two are separated by a few minutes drive or a steep climb up the ancient Kalderimi – stone paved path - which is a beautiful way to go for those with strong legs as Glossa is situated some 250 metres above Loutraki. Many locals use the long flat beach for a swim as it’s convenient and it’s also something you can fit in between dropping people off/collecting people from the boats. But in general Loutraki has the lazy day air of a place not to be rushed.

26

Getting around

I defy anyone to get lost in Loutraki which is one main street leading down to the seafront, which goes both left and right, and then some small alleyways leading off them. At the bottom of the road coming down from Glossa you suddenly find yourself in the main area of Loutraki. There is a supermarket, Klimataria taverna, a bakery (Karvelis), the Hellenic Seaways ticket office, Dream Cars and then the 2 cafes as you enter the port, one on either side of the road, Skippers and Aramis all within 30 metres. As you pass these you enter the enormous roundabout of the port where the bus stop/taxi rank is and you can turn left into the parking area (and if you continue for another 100 meters you will reach Petrino café/bar), or turn right and carry on around to where the two waterside taverna’s are or go straight forward to the embarkation area at the end of the dock. The only slightly tricky find amongst the shops etc is the second ticket office which this year sells the tickets for ANES Lines Proteus ferry. It’s situated up an alley between Skippers café and the wooden periptero (cigarettes and sweets etc cabin). Here’s a picture of the office just in case! In Greece you have to go to sep- arate offices to buy tickets for different shipping lines so be aware and check on an independent site such as www.openseas.gr for which boat is best for you.

28 Eating in Loutraki

Turn right onto the port roundabout - then carry on round the corner to the right past the Church of St Nicholas (above) and you will see the two waterfront taverna’s next to each other, namely Flisvos and Amirali. Perched atop the sea with the waves slapping against their wall, not surprisingly they do a lot of seafood and Yannis at the long established “Flisvos” often catches things from the restaurant itself. I have seen him pull octopus and even sea bass straight out of the water. They both do the normally wide range of oven based and grilled foods though with salads and meats as well as the produce of their other close neighbour (the sea!)

29 Flisvos

Amirali

30 In the Main Street is the more meat oriented taverna of Loutraki, namely Klimataria, which is known as Kostas’s to the locals. This is more of a grill place, but especially in the summer has a wider repertoire and has a garden out at the back and a few tables on the opposite side of the main drag

Above Loutraki on the road back up to Glossa is also the Aegean Waves Hotel which boasts a restaurant, open to non-guests too, which has a special view across the port and over to Skiathos Island. Café Aramis have just opened a taverna next to their café too. It sells the normal mix of fish, salads, oven baked foods etc.

31 Café/Bar/Snacks

The two cafes on either side of the road coming down to the port are Skippers on one side and Aramis on the other. Open all day (and evening) long for a wide selections of every- thing you could require from such an establishment. Also through the car parking area and down the bay to the south is Café/ Bar Petrino, which is by itself and away from the occasional

bustle of the port. In the other direction past the church and through the two taverna’s on the waterfront is the road to the night club/bar Glistra which opens until late.

32

The Surrounding Area

The countryside, coastline and nature of Northern Skopelos is truly stunning. It is peaceful, beautiful and with a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna compared to the traditional idea of how a Greek island should be. Also, man has left his mark too, with churches, chapels, monasteries, villages and of course the lighthouse at Cape Girouni (the Cape of Pig!). Coming from the low lying, and relatively new village of Elios, the road climbs upwards towards Glossa and the first point of interest is the turning for Armenopetra/Kalives beaches. This is a winding track going steeply - and bumpily - down, eventually ending at a parking area where you will find the two beaches. Kalives beach, which faces south, is hardly there anymore - possibly dredging out to sea has caused erosion - but on the other side facing north west is Armenopetra (navigation rock) beach which is a good size and terminated at the impressive large, white, craggy rock which gives the beach its name. It’s a wild beach with no sunbeds etc but as it’s north-west facing it has choppy water if the wind is high from the NW. Back on to the main road just a 100 metres further on is a petrol station which is noteworthy mainly for its café where you can drink, smoke and eat with a magnificent view which is a fairly unique experience in a filling station! Continuing on towards Glossa soon brings you to the old ruined village of Paleo Klima, which is divided into 3 parts. This lovely old hill village was devastated by an earthquake in 1965 and the inhabitants moved down to what is now Elios leaving their own village deserted.

34 It has provided a number of holiday homes now though which are interspersed with still derelict properties and although there are a handful of full time residents there are no shops or facilities of any kind. It’s a nice walk through. If you take the second entrance just after the sharp right bend and walk down through the villages and up the other side of the valley on the old kalderimi (cobbled path) you come to the charming church with its wrought iron spire. You can then either continue up to the main road or retrace your steps. Or walk the marked trail leading down to Loutraki.

35 Back on the road and fast approaching Glossa you will see a large sign for a Shell station. You really can not miss it as it’s rather out of scale with its surroundings. It does, however, make the turning to the church of Ayios Yannis sto Kastri unmissable! This landmark has been made famous the world over by the film Mamma Mia and rightly so, it is indeed a very special place. And it is normally not crowded - unless you are unlucky enough to coincide with an infrequent group visit ! This road goes only to the church and reaches it in about 8 minutes. You catch a glimpse of the setting on the way down - as you pass the more modern church of Panagia - and it is a stunning view down the east coast of the island with the towering rock rising out of the sea topped by the white church. When you reach the base the added bonus is a mobile Kantina with covered seating area and the fact there is a very lovely little beach, Spilia, just next to it (and along the path) to cool off when you descend the steps. It’s about 100 metres up to the church so depending if you are fit or not it’s either a nice climb or a bit of a struggle. The steps and handrails are adequate though and it’s not the wild adventure that many people claim but it is harder in the heat of the day. There are many legends about the churches origins and that of the hermits cave next to it too but the one thing for sure is it’s not exactly as it appeared in the film. The film folk in their wisdom decided it was too small for cinematographic reasons so built a church over the top of it (in wood) and then of course removed all trace of it afterwards. The church is lovely though and its setting is divine. In many ways it’s like a miniature version of the magnificent monasteries of Meteora just over on the mainland. But the location is equally

36 enthralling if not on the same scale. A must visit. Back to the main road via the Shell station and just 50 metres down the road is the turning for the north east of the island. It’s a sharp fork up to the right and the main sign posting is for Perivoliou which is a beautiful cove beach. This area is one of steep valleys lined with Chestnut, Walnut and Plane trees, Olive groves and Pine woods. Koukinares (Pine Nut trees) punctuate the landscape - as do tall straight Cypresses giving the place an almost Tuscan feel. Orchards abound with plums, cherries, quinces and figs and vineyards and tiny gardens near springs can be seen. This area has been populated for many thousands of years and recently, with the decline in rural life, many of the small cottages have been abandoned leaving only churches and ruins to mark where scattered villages once were.

Taxiachon monastery is the first point of interest on this road. A tiny but beautiful walled courtyard with a perfect bijou chapel with icons. It features monk’s cells with the old study chairs outside and a perfect example of a Skopiliti corner fireplace. Outside, set into

37 the wall, is an ossuary – a bone house - in the Greek tradition of exhumation - but it hasn’t been used for many years! There are dozens of small charming chapels dotted around the area all commemorating different saints and coming alive on their name day every year.

Continuing on the road through the countryside you will eventually come to a “T” junction after descending a long winding hill. Here you can turn left to Perivoulio beach or right to Hondro Georgos beach. If you turn right on to the dirt road you can either stop at the beach or continue through the hills and the dirt road will bring you back to Glossa village. Hondro Georgos (it means fat George!) beach is a series of little coves and has easy access as parking is quite close to sea level. Excellent for snorkeling. To the left and you come to Perivoulio beach which is a beautiful steep cove not unlike those found in Cornwall (UK). As with all the coastline the water is crystal clear and varies from green to blue.

38 There are some other coves around this area but some are very hidden and most require the climbing prowess of a goat like nature to reach them. Perivoliou sometimes has sunbed hire on it but that doesn’t spoil its wild feeling.

Just before reaching the parking area of Perivoliou is a dirt track leading to the left. This is the road that goes along to the light- house. An interesting route as it starts in pine forest and then emerges into real coastal maquis scrubland. Past some ancient ruins and some wild rugged areas the road stops at the lighthouse where the keeper is often available for a chat or maybe even a tour. The current lighthouse is quite pleasing architecturally as it was built in the neoclassic style that was prevalent 100 years ago and in fact it celebrates its centenary in 2014.

39 Flora and Fauna

In the middle season of the summer there are not so many flowers to see but for the rest of the year the North of Skopelos island is awash with colour as everything from wild daffodils and gladioli to whole fields of orchids appear. The large bee population makes great use of this and so do the locals who make the best honey from the bees labours. The tradition of picking wild greens and herbs from the hillsides also prevails as crops of wild asparagus, sorrel, spinach and milk thistle are all collected and consumed with great relish. Many of the birds that are seen here are migratory, such as the large colourful flocks of Bee Eaters and the crested Hoopoes. Some remain to breed like the fast and elegant Elenora’s falcons which swoop like darts around the hillsides. And the swallows which dip for water from the swimming pools. Then we have rare visitors like the short-toed eagles that come from the mainland and the permanent population of large swooping buzzards - which rotate around on the thermal winds looking for a lizard to drop on.

40 On the ground the most common site is the European Hedgehog and the furry Beech Marten (kounavi) scurrying off the road at night and Hares racing in front of you during the day. The Balkan Green Lizard can also be spotted as the vibrant coloured reptile darts off the road. The sea off this north east coast in front of Pervoulio beach becomes a marine park as it approaches the neighbouring island of Alonissos and is a haven for the endangered European Monk Seal. The park, which is the largest in Europe, is also home to large schools of dolphins that are regularly seen all around Northern Skopelos. Passing through, although rarely spotted, are also Pilot Whales and Loggerhead Turtles. But most of the sea life you will see is either by snorkelling or on the menu in the tavernas. Where as the cats are everywhere!

41 To Stay..

Glossa itself doesn’t have a hotel, there is one rooms to let place and the rest is taken up by villa rentals. Loutraki though has several hotels and lots of rooms and apartments. Two local companies deal in villa rentals. www.aegeanescapes.com www.glossa -houses.com www.hotelselenunda.com http://www.aegeanwave.com

Pension Platana (Glossa) 24240 33188 Rania studios 24240 33710 Orfanos rooms 6981890623 Ravenos Apartments 6976244293

42 Other things to do..

The pleasure and charm of this area is normally found in just absorbing the atmosphere and experiencing life in this part of “real” Greece. But there are a few things to do as well as tour the area, eat the food, swim off the beaches, snorkel etc etc. One of the best ways of exploring this wonderful coastline is by kayak and Glossa is the home of Skopelos Kayaking, which is run by a qualified English instructor. They do hold proper training courses and qualification courses but for most of the summer they do trips catering for all levels of ability from young children to older paddlers. Sunset excursions of a few hours or half day or whole days spent paddling to some of the islets, caves, inlets and beaches that the land locked never get to see. Double boats are available so people who can’t paddle at all can still get to experience the beautiful turquoise waters at close hand. There is a system of ancient kalderimis (cobbled roads) and monopati (footpaths) in the area and many these are now marked with signs. Also there are organized walking parties around the island and books describing the trails available to those who wish to explore on foot.

43 The Glossa Folk Museum is open in July and August from 10.00- 13.00 and 18.00-21.00. It is a very typical old Glossa house kept in original style with a display of the costumes worn by islanders for weddings etc. Opposite is a permanent display of the work of the Glossa born artist Alexandros D Sideris who emigrated to New York and made his name there. He died in 1978 but his family maintain a house in Glossa to this day.

44 Also there is another museum, mainly about boats and the maritime history, hidden away. Its website is www.hellenic-foun- dation.gr and if you head north along the lane from the Folk Mu- seum after about 100 metres you will come to a brown stone house which is obviously unoccupied. Turn sharp right there then after 20 metres look up the steep lane to your left you will see the Greek flag which marks this museum.

Every August there is a Glossa festival of arts featuring music, theatre, dancing and art. Usually there is a well known Greek singer headlining and some local talent and then a last night free concert in Loutraki with free wine. It’s normally well attended and worth the effort to see if you are here. Its so well organized there is even transport from Skopelos Town and Skiathos laid on!

45 Getting here

Glossa’s port Loutraki is just 20 minutes’ from the port of our neighbouring island Skiathos which means that while Skiathos takes the brunt of most of the its airport brings, Glossa is still accessible from the airport - but is protected. Skiathos has flights from many European cities. Otherwise there are ferries and flying cat hydrofoils from the main- land at Volos (which has its own airport and also via Thessaloniki) and Ayios Konstantinos which is the departure point for visitors coming from Athens. www.alkyontravel.gr arrange coach/ferry transfers from Athens Also there is an Olympic Air flight from Athens to Skiathos every day at a very affordable price. Once on the island there is a regular bus service between the villages, car hire or the local taxi’s. The boat journey from Loutraki to Skopelos town is about 30 minutes or longer for ferries.

46 Useful Numbers

Taxi drivers (local) Dimitris 6978025718 Yannis 6944734024 Stamatis 6988544272 Panayotis 6979031303 Local doctor Glossa 24240 33 504 24 hr medical centre (Skopelos Town) 24240 22 222 (22739) or (22592) Police 24240 22235 Travel agent (Hellenic Seaways) 24240 33435(33042) Travel agent (ANES line) 24240 34335 Dream cars 24240 33977

47 “The North of Skopelos Island is a haven of unspoiled Greece. The traditional hill village of Glossa, with its spectacular views, is at the centre of this area of verdant countryside, beautiful coastline and ageless churches and villages. It’s a slice of the real Greece.”

SKOPELOS holidays.com