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Wanderings in the Highlands of Banff and Aberdeen Shires, with Trifles In

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Wanderings in the Highlands of Banff and Aberdeen Shires, with Trifles In THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES WANDERINGS HIGHLANDS OF BANFF AND ABERDEEN SHIRES. WANDERINGS HIGHLANDS OF BANFF AND ABERDEEN SHIRES: WITH TRIFLES IN VERSE. BY J. (I. PHILLIPS. " Away, ye yay landscapes, ye gardens of roses, of rove In you let the minions luxury ; Restore me the rocks where the snowflake reposes, For still are they sacred to freedom and lovu." Bvitox. BANFF : FEINTED AT THE BANFFSHIKE JOURNAL OFFICE. 1881, DA CONTENTS. -pb ( TOMINTOUL, I.NCUKOKV, AND TIM'. lu AMPIANS, . 9 STRATIIAVEN AND FERGAN \YEI.L, ... 17 THE BRAES OK CONGI.ASS, . 23 GLENBUCKET, STRATHDON, AND GLENNOCHTY, . 28 CORGARFF AND STKATHDON, . -35 Gl.ENSUIE, Bl.ACKWATER, AM) LOWER C'ABRAi:H, . 54 UPPER CABRACII, . -59 GLENRINNES : ITS ARCHEOLOGY AND AGRICULTURE, . 68 THE BRAES OF GLENLIVET SIXTY YEARS AGO, . 75 PRESENT BRAES OF GLENLIVET, .... 83 OLD COLLEGE OK SCAI.AN, BRAES OF GLENI.IVET, . 88 INVERAVEN AND LOWER GLENLIVET, 95 THE MOSSES OK GLENI.IVET, . m POETRY. LAND OF THK BRAVE, . .119 DREAMING, ...... 120 IN MEMORY OK BELLA. .121 A RETROSPECT, . 123 To ANNIE, ....... 124 BLIGHTED HOPE. ...... 125 FORSAKEN, . .126 AN ODE TO NATURE, ..... 127 AN ADDRESS TO THE WIND, ..... 120 A DREAM, . 130 LINES TO A LADY, ...... 132 MOURNING, ...... 134 AN APPEAL, . 135 To THE RISING SUN, . 137 Two MEETINGS, . .138 PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. .... 140 To Li /./.IE, ....... 142 THK FLOWER OF FIDDOCHSIDK, .... 143 A BATTLE FIELD, ...... 144 LIKE, ....... 145 884725 ? R E F A C HE Wanderings which form the greater part <>t this volume have all, with one exception, appeared at different periods during the past six years in the newspaper press. They were fairly well received by the public when read separately, which encourages the hope that they will be equally fortunate when presented in the present form. When first written, I had no idea whatever of forming a collection. The walks were undertaken for plea- sure and recreation, and to make an acquaintance with the districts. [ tried to describe their physical features, their modes of agriculture, and anything else that came under my observation, as faithfully as possible. In this work I have strictly adhered to the original, only making an alteration or correction where deemed necessary. Therefore, if it lias no other merit, it may be relied upon as a guide. Taking the Braes of Glenlivet as a centre, all the surrounding districts have been personally visited, and by roads but little known to the outsider. With regard to the Verses, I can say but little. They have all appeared in the newspapers at some time. I have chosen, from a good number of pieces, those that I considered the best. In this I do not know that I have been successful. It is not always the case that one is a good judge of one's own efforts. In conclusion, I beg to offer my sincere thanks to all who have helped me in any way. To the " " " Editors of the Banffshire Journal and the Elgin " Courant those thanks are especially due, it being through their kindness that I have been allowed to reprint the papers. To my Subscribers I am also very grateful, and I fondly hope that the perusal of my Wanderings and Verses may give them pleasure, if not profit. J. G. PHILLIPS. BIIAKS or DA tv in the TOMINTOUL, INCHRORY, AND THE GRAMPIANS. 'HE sun was glinting over the stormy Kyma, and the dews of night lay thick on the heather, as we ascended Glachcan on our way to Tomintoul. We had long wished to have a closer view of Scotland's Alps than could be obtained from the Braes of Glenlivet, but the weather prevented us. This morning, however, was calm and lovely. The fields were bright green, the hills dark brown, and the great dome of heaven a cloudless blue. Rapidly, and in the best of spirits, we moved along the shoulder of Glachcan, inclining downwards to dark Faemus- sach between Blairwick and and at ; passed Inchnacape, length reached the high road that leads to the capital of the Banffshire Highlands. Another half-hour and we passed Auchriachan, where the waters of the Conglass rush past at headlong speed, anxious, as it were, to shake hands with the amber Aven. A few minutes more and we reached the first stage of our journey Tomintoul. It has been the pleasure of some writers lately to paint Tomintoul black, simply, we imagine, because some one else did it before them. It is true that Tomintoul cannot boast of marble or brilliant palaces, smiling gardens, equipages ; 10 but it is likewise true that it is not cursed with houses of a less agreeable and romantic character. If the village of Tomintoul is not an Eden, it is within easy reach of some of the wildest and grandest scenes in Scotland. Where in the Northern Highlands can a sweeter or more romantic spot be found than Delnabo ? Crossing the Aven about a mile from Tomintoul, you move along the beautiful haugh, and in a few minutes reach the sequestered nook where the houses of Delnabo lie nestled. Immediately behind the steading rises black with it to attract the a great hill, but little on eye ; but, a turning to the left, an abrupt knoll is seen with narrow steep pathway winding round it. Ascend the pathway and you are among the crags of Alniack crags famous for their in height and wild sterility. The stream Alniack the course of ages has cut a channel through the red rock of at least a hundred feet, and the gorge is so narrow and perpendicular that it makes the head giddy and the flesh creep to peer over the brink of the fearful abyss. Move on towards the Gram- pians, and the scene gets wilder and more terrific. Great masses of rock are seen standing alone, like sentinels guard- ing the approach, and warning the stranger back from scru- tinising too closely the secrets of that wild scene. These fantastic peaks of rock are trappean, and belong to the meta- morphic system. The crags of Alniack are, however, but one of the many interesting and romantic scenes near Tomin- toul, and we would advise the keen-eyed writers who visit it to take a look of the surroundings of the village ere they give vent to their critical powers. The people of Tomintoul are quick and intelligent, and bear a strong love for their Highland home. There is one feeling among them, however, which we would like to see changed. It is that many of the young people are inclined to let the language of their fore- fathers sink into oblivion. We do not understand this feel- ing. There is much in the mountain tongue that merits cultivation. It is the language that Ossian sung in, and many other bards whose names are now lost in the mists of time. We do hope that this ancient language, which ought to be dear to every Scottish heart, will not be driven from its last stronghold in Banffshire. After reaching Tomintoul, we joined four companions, 11 one of whom had a vehicle in waiting ready to start with us for Loch Bnilg. Seated in it, with a plentiful supply of provisions, we rolled swiftly away, and soon left Tomintoul behind us. Wheeling round a turn in the road, we came in sight of Delnabo, described above. Though close on the banks of the Aven, it belongs to the Seafield estates, and is tenanted by Major Smith, Minmore, who also possesses Lynchork, near by, and the adjoining grazings, extending in all to about 10,000 acres, of which he is also the shooting tenant. Quickly Delnabo fades from our view, and we are skimming along towards Delavorar. The road at this point is very dangerous for vehicles. It runs along a steep bank over- looking the Aven, and is very narrow. It has apparently been hewn out of the rock composing the breast of the hill. At one part, as we approach Delavorar, it makes a sudden wheel, turning nearly at right angles, when the slightest restiveness on the part of the horse would be attended with the most disastrous consequences. But our driver knew his work, and we were driven along the dangerous pathway in the most perfect confidence. The heights on the west side of the Aven are very beautiful. The natural birches, which give them a picturesque appearance, were in full plumage, if we may so speak, and from their recesses were piped forth the songs of the thrush and blackbird, while the weird-like notes of the cushat dove had the effect of making one feel that they were alone with nature. Delavorar, lovely Delavorar, is without doubt the best situated farm 011 the upper reaches of the Aven. It stands on a level plain mid-way between the Aven and the birch- clad braes behind it. Nature has left nothing undone that could lend enchantment to this sweet spot. The cultivated land stretches along the west side of the Aven on either hand, and is as smooth and level as a bowling green, while the rich pasture lands, sheltered by the natural woods, combine to make it one of the most desirable farms that the heart of man could wish. We do rot envy Mr Gordon for his beautiful retreat, for there is no one more capable of appreciating and enjoying the splendours of a Highland home, but we must say that we would have gladly crossed the fine suspension bridge which spans the Aven in front of the 12 house, and taken up our abode, disposed to live at peace with all men.
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