Garden Compost Sarah Browning, Extension Educator

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University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources Know how. Know now. G2222 Garden Compost Sarah Browning, Extension Educator

This NebGuide discusses the advantages of com- post, compostable materials, creating and maintaining a compost pile, and uses for compost in the landscape.

Compost is a mixture of partially decomposed plant material and other organic wastes (Figure 1). It is used in landscapes and gardens to amend soil and fertilize plants.

Advantages

The chief advantage of adding compost is its ability to improve soil structure. Adding compost to heavy clay soil improves drainage by improving soil structure. Compost also absorbs water and improves the water-holding capacity of sandy soils. To conserve moisture or develop a xeriscape, Figure 1. Finished compost looks like dark brown soil, and is a landscape requiring little water, it is essential to have soil crumbly and earthy-smelling with good water retention. In addition to improving soil structure, decomposing eggshells may also be added. Egg shells do not contribute compost will slowly release plant nutrients, however, unless either nitrogen or carbon, but will decompose. applied in very large amounts compost will not provide all Sawdust, wood chips and newspaper, which are very the nitrogen that highly productive crops require. Organic high in carbon, can be added. Provide sufficient nitrogen gardeners can supplement generous compost applications materials, or use commercial nitrogen fertilizer to balance the with manure to produce good yields without the addition of high carbon ratio. Approximately 1 pound of actual nitrogen other non-organic fertilizers. (6 cups of ammonium nitrate) is required for 100 pounds of Making and using compost allows the gardener to recycle dry sawdust. Blood meal can be used as an organic source of kitchen, home and garden wastes, and reduce the burdens of nitrogen, instead of commercial fertilizer for organic garden- trash disposal. ers. Blood meal is approximately 13 percent nitrogen so about 7.6 pounds is needed to provide 1 pound of actual nitrogen. Composting Materials Certain organic materials should not be used to make compost because they may pose a health hazard or create a Almost all organic materials will decompose, but not all nuisance. Meat, bones, grease, whole eggs, and dairy products organic materials belong in the compost pile. Yard wastes, should not be added because they can attract rodents and other such as leaves, grass clippings, straw, and non-woody plant wildlife. Most plant disease organisms and weed seeds are trimmings, can be composted. The predominant organic waste destroyed during the composting process when temperatures in most backyard compost piles is leaves. Grass clippings can in the center of the pile reach 140° to 150°F. However, in most be composted; however, with proper lawn management, clip- compost piles, it is impossible to mix efficiently enough to pings do not need to be removed from the lawn. If clippings bring all wastes to the center. Consequently, large amounts of are used for compost, it is advisable to mix them with other weed seed or diseased plants may create problems after the yard wastes. Branches, logs, and twigs greater than 1/4 inch finished compost is added to the garden Table( I). in diameter should be put through a shredder/chipper or cut Wood ash is approximately 25 percent calcium carbon- up with a corn knife prior to placement in the compost pile. ate, a common liming product. It is highly water soluble, so it Kitchen wastes such as vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and quickly affects compost pile chemistry. Adding too much will raise the compost pile’s pH and result in decreased microbial Table II. Good composting materials, and their carbon/nitrogen activity. Use wood ash sparingly in the compost pile, particu- ratios larly if the pH of your garden’s native soil is already alkaline. Carbon: Finally, do not add manure from dogs, cats, pigs or any High Nitrogen Materials (less than 30:1 ratio) Nitrogen Ratio other type of livestock if the compost will be used in the veg- Alfalfa hay 13:1 etable garden. Bacteria and parasites that commonly infect Apple pomace 21:1 these animals could survive the composting process and be Blood meal 4:1 ingested with the vegetable garden produce. Coffee grounds 20:1 Cow manure 20:1 Table I. Non-compostable organic materials Fruit waste 35:1 • Plants with severe disease or insect infestations Grass clippings 12-25:1 • Aggressive or state identified noxious weeds, or those Manure — cow and horse 20-25:1 with many seeds Manure — poultry (fresh) 10:1 • Grasses that spread by rhizomes Manure with litter — poultry 13-18:1 • Meat or fish leftovers Vegetable waste 12-20:1 • Bones • Butter High Carbon Materials (greater than 30:1 ratio) • Cheese Bark 100-130:1 • Lard • Manure — dog, cat, and swine Corn cobs 50-120:1 • Mayonnaise Corn stalks 80:1 • Milk Leaves 40-80:1 • Peanut butter Manure with litter — horse 30-60:1 • Oils Newspaper, shredded 400-800:1 • Salad dressing Paper 150-200:1 • Sour cream • Whole eggs Pine needles 80:1 • Grease Sawdust and wood chips 100-500:1 Straw — oats and wheat 70-80:1 Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios

All living organisms are made of large amounts of A pile that is too high in carbon will stay cool and sit a carbon (C) combined with smaller amounts of nitrogen (N). long time without breaking down. A pile too high in nitrogen The balance of these elements in an organism is called the will heat up fast, then quickly cool down and develop a smell carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N). This ratio is an important fac- like ammonia gas. Adding additional nitrogen or carbon ma- tor determining how easily bacteria can decompose organic terials, respectively, remixing the pile and adding more water waste. The microorganisms in compost use carbon for energy will jump start the decomposition process again. and nitrogen for protein synthesis. A ratio of about 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen is the ideal proportion of these two Making a Compost Bin elements for bacterial growth. Given a steady diet at this 30:1 ratio, bacteria can work on organic material very quickly. To save space, hasten decomposition, and keep the yard Most materials available for composting don’t have this looking neat, composting can be done in some sort of struc- ratio. So, to speed up composting, the numbers need to be bal- ture. Composting structures can be made from a variety of anced. For instance, a mixture of one-half brown tree leaves materials, and be as simple or complex as desired. However, (40:1 ratio) could be used with one-half grass clippings (20:1 farm or acreage owners may prefer a free standing compost ratio) to make a pile with the ideal 30:1 ratio. This will work pile that can be mixed with a rototiller or tractor. best on a weight rather than volume basis. Mixing materials Yard wastes can be composted either in simple holding of different sizes and textures also helps to provide a well- units, where they will sit undisturbed for slow decomposi- drained and well-aerated compost pile. tion, or in turning bins, which produce finished compost in The C:N ratios listed in Table II are only guidelines; they a month or two. are not accurate for every material of that type. For instance, Holding units are simple containers used to store garden brown grass clippings from a poorly kept lawn will have far waste in an organized way until these materials break down less nitrogen content than lush green clippings from a fertil- (Figure 2). A holding unit is the easiest way to compost, and ized lawn. Likewise, the leaves from different types of trees is considered a passive composting system. It only requires vary in the C:N balance. placing wastes into a pile or bin as they are generated. The best way to become familiar with the balancing of Non-woody materials such as grass clippings, crop wastes, carbon and nitrogen for a well-functioning compost pile is to garden weeds, and leaves work best in these systems. Decom- be specific about it for a while. Think in terms of half high position can take from six months to two years The process carbon and half low carbon material when building a compost can be hastened by chopping or shredding wastes, adding a pile. While this may not give the optimum C:N balance, it is mix of dry and wet materials, and maintaining proper moisture. a useful rule of thumb for those new to composting and not Since yard and garden wastes will be added continuously, familiar with the materials. the stage of decomposition will vary from the top to the bottom Building the Compost Pile

The goal of composting is to create a beneficial environ- ment for the growth and activity of aerobic bacteria. They require a minimum of 5 percent oxygen in the pile, but break down organic materials much faster than anaerobic bacteria and don’t generate any odor. Anaerobic bacteria live and grow in environments with less than 5 percent oxygen. They break down materials much slower and generate methane gas, which give some compost piles their rotten egg smell. Compost piles with too much water may switch from aerobic Figure 2. Holding units, such as those in the top row, work well to anaerobic composition, and require the addition of more for passive composting. A series of turning units, such carbon materials followed by turning of the pile to stop the as those in the bottom row, make turning compost activity of the anaerobic bacteria. easier. A compost pile should be large enough to hold heat and of each compost pile. Generally, the more finished compost small enough to admit air to its center. As a rule of thumb, will be found near the bottom of a pile and partially decom- the minimum dimensions of a pile should be 3 feet by 3 feet posed materials near the top. Once the compost at the bottom by 3 feet (1 cubic yard) to hold heat. The maximum to allow of a pile is finished, it can be removed and used, leaving the oxygen to the center of the pile is 5 feet tall by 5 feet wide partially decomposed materials in the holding unit until they and as long as you wish. have completely decomposed. Microorganisms can only use organic molecules dis- Turning units are typically a series of bins used for build- solved in water. A moisture content of 40-60 percent provides ing and turning active compost piles (Figure 2). A turning adequate water without limiting aeration. The “squeeze” test unit allows wastes to be conveniently mixed for aeration on is an easy way to gauge the moisture content of composting a regular basis. This speeds composting by providing bacteria materials. The material should feel damp to the touch, with with the oxygen they need to break down materials. Turning just a drop or two of liquid being released when the material systems require frequent maintenance and preparation of the is tightly squeezed in the hand. wastes to be composted. The compost pile can initially be prepared in layers. This Composting in these units is most efficiently done in will facilitate decomposition by insuring proper mixing. batches. Materials should be stockpiled until there is enough • Layer 1 — Add a 4-6 inch layer of high carbon organic to fill the bin. These bins should be monitored and turned material (leaves or garden waste) which should also be after temperatures have peaked (90-140°F) and begun to fall damp. (Figure 3). This occurs four to seven days after pile construc- • Layer 2 — Next, add a 3-4 inch layer of low carbon tion. Turn a second time when the temperature peaks again, organic material such as grass clippings. This material four to seven days later. Compost processed this way will be should be damp when added to the pile. ready in four to six weeks. • Layer 3 — On top of this, add a 1-inch layer of garden soil or finished compost. This layer will introduce the microorganisms needed to break down the organic matter. Mix Layers 1 to 3 (low carbon organic matter, high carbon organic matter, and soil) before adding another layer to the pile. This will ensure a speedy and even composting of the organic matter. Repeat the “layering” process until the composting bin is filled.

Maintenance of the Pile

For the passive compost pile, nothing more needs to be done. Eventually the materials will break down, but remember Figure 3. Multiple units make turning more convenient and that it may take from six months to two years before finished speed composting. compost can be harvested from the base of the pile. For the active compost pile, maintenance will involve turn- Location ing the pile and adding water to maintain conditions conducive to the composting process. In an active compost pile (Figure The compost pile should be located close to where it will 4), the temperature will increase rapidly and soon reach about be used and yet not offend neighbors. The pile will do best 110°F. After about a week, the pile should be opened to the where it is protected from drying winds but in partial sunlight air and any compacted material should be loosened. Then the which helps heat the pile. Keep the pile near a water source pile should be reconstructed; material previously on the top so that adding water doesn’t require dragging a lot of hoses. and sides of the pile should be moved to the center. Steps to maintaining an active compost pile.

1. Collect organic material. 2. Blend moist “green” and dry “brown” materials. 3. Dampen all organic material. 4. Turn or aerate the pile periodically.

Figure 4. Mixing and turning compost every 7-14 days results in the quickest decomposition of organic materials.

After about another week, the material on the sides of Stable and cured compost has its greatest value when the pile should be turned back to the center. Each time the rototilled directly into the soil. One cubic yard of compost material should be turned back to the center of the pile. At covers 108 square feet at 3 inches, 216 square feet at 2 inches, each turning, the moisture content should be checked using and 324 square feet at 1 inch. The rule of thumb is to spread the squeeze test. Add water as necessary. compost no more than one-third the depth of the rototiller. A The compost will be finished when the pile cools off and 1-inch layer of compost should be tilled in 3 inches, a 2-inch decreases to about one-third of its original volume. It will layer tilled in 6 inches, and a 3-inch layer tilled in 9 inches. look like dark colored soil, with no recognizable pieces of Making two or more passes with the tiller helps blend the the original materials. compost with the topsoil and break up any clumps of material. Mulch — Compost can be used as a mulch around trees, Using Compost shrubs, ornamentals, and vegetables.

Finished compost is dark brown, crumbly and earthy- Compost Equipment smelling. If small pieces of leaves or other ingredients are still visible, the compost is only partially decomposed. • stiff-tined fork Allow partially decomposed compost to break down fur- • compost thermometer ther, or screen out the larger, undecomposed pieces before • garden hose using the compost. Put the screened materials back into a • containment structure (optional) new compost pile, and give them more time to decompose. Adding large amounts of partially decomposed compost Acknowledgment to the soil can reduce the amount of nitrogen available to The author would like to acknowledge the contributions plants, as the decomposing bacteria utilize soil nitrogen. This of Donald H. Steinegger, former UNL Extension Horticulture may restrict nitrogen availability to plants in the garden. If Specialist, and Don Janssen, UNL Extension Educator, who necessary, add extra nitrogen (such as manure or commercial co-authored the first edition of this publication. fertilizer) to ensure that growing plants will not suffer from a nitrogen deficiency. Soil Mixes — Stable compost can be blended into soil This publication has been peer reviewed. mixes and is suitable for use in containers, raised beds and ground beds. It is typically mixed with other ingredients such UNL Extension publications are available online as peat moss, shredded bark, sand, or loamy topsoil. Mixing at http://extension.unl.edu/publications. ratios vary; but 10 percent compost is considered to be a minimum, 30 percent optimum, and 50 percent maximum. No more than 50 percent compost should be used in soil mixes, as decreasing plant growth may result. Index: Lawn & Garden Miscellaneous Issued December 2013

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