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OSHIMA Cowl Neck Pullover by Jared Flood

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OSHIMA Cowl Neck Pullover by Jared Flood OSHIMA Cowl Neck Pullover by Jared Flood BROOKLYN TWEED OSHIMA COMPONENTS Materials Approximately 2285 (2500, 2775, 3045, 3385, 3590) yards of fingering weight wool yarn (held double throughout) 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) skeins of Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yards/50g) Photographed in color Sweatshirt Gauge 16 stitches & 24 rows/rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch with Size A needle(s) and yarn held double, after blocking 14 stitches & 44 rows/rounds = 4" in Brioche Stitch with Size B needle(s) and yarn held double, after blocking Note that for Brioche Stitch, each elongated stitch in a column of knit stitches represents two rows: when you count these it will appear that 22 rows = 4" Needles Size A (for stockinette stitch) One each 16" and 32" circular needles, and one set of DPNs* in size needed to obtain stockinette stitch gauge listed Suggested Size: 6½ mm (US 10½) Size B (for Brioche Stitch and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needles in size needed to obtain Brioche Stitch gauge listed Suggested Size: 5½ mm (US 9) Size C (for Ribbing and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needles, and one set of DPNs*, three sizes smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 5 mm (US 8) Size D (optional; for Tubular Cast On only, and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needle and one set of DPNs*, four sizes smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 4½ mm (US 7) Size E (for Cuffs and Collar only) One 16" circular needle and one set of DPNs* one size smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 6 mm (US 10) *32” circular needle can be used instead of DPNs if using Magic Loop Method Finished Dimensions 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" circumference at bust Intended Ease: + 4-5" Sample shown is size 38” with + 4" ease on model Additional Tools Stitch markers (including one in a unique style or color for BOR), removable markers or coil-less safety pins, cable needle (CN), blunt tapestry needle, stitch holders or waste yarn, a small amount of sock yarn in a similar color for seaming (see Construction Notes), sewing needle and thread to match yarn color (for tacking cuffs in place) If working Tubular Cast On, you will also require smooth waste yarn (DK or worsted weight cotton, silk, or bamboo yarn) and Size D 32" circular needle and DPNs .You may use another cast on if desired, omitting these tools. Size D 16" circular needle is used for collar; do not omit this length. Skill Level óóóóê 2 Pattern Version 1.0 Last Revised September 2013 OSHIMA SCHEMATICS 7¼ (7¾, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9½)" 6 (6, 6½, 6½, 6½, 6½)" 3½ (4, 4½, 4½, 5, 5)" 5½ (6, 6, 6½ , 5¼ (5¼, 5¾, 5¾, 7¼, 7¾)" 5¾, 5¾)" 5 (5¼, 5¼, 5¾, 6¼ (6¼, 6¼, 3 (3, 3½, 3½, 6, 6¼)" 6¾, 6¾, 6¾)" 3½, 3½)" 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12)" 4¾ (5, 5½, 12 (13, 14, 15½, 17, 18½)" 6, 6½, 7)" 15¾ (16¼, 17½, 18, 18½, 19¼)" Cross Back 14½ (15¼, 16¼, 16¾, 17½, 18)" Cross Front 14½ (14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½)" 10¼ (10½, 11¼, 11¼, 12¼, 12¼)" 2½" 6" Doubled Cuff 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" Bust Circumference 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55)" Hip Circumference 10 (10½, 10½, 11, 11½ , 11½)" Notes: Pullover is worked in the round; schematic is shown in exploded view to illustrate shaping and construction details Dotted lines indicate beginning-of-round and side “seam” (garment body only) Note that cross-back is slightly wider than cross-front. www.brooklyntweed.net 3 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 FROM THE DESIGNER “When Fall arrives, I love bringing my favorite ‘knockaround’ sweaters out from summer storage and reintegrating them into my wardrobe. This classic pullover is an homage to coziness, featuring a generous cowl neck worked in squishy Brioche Stitch, a subtle A-line silhouette, doubled sleeve cuffs, and a Brioche Stitch yoke. The graphic Brioche columns spotlight the full-fashioned shaping details at the garment’s shoulders and neckline.” –Jared Flood CONSTRUCTION NOTES • Yarn is held double throughout; the term “working yarn” refers to two strands held together as one. • Body is worked circularly from the lower edge to the underarm point. Stitches are bound off for underarm, and then the front and back of the yoke are worked flat for the remainder of garment. • Sleeves are worked circularly from the lower edge to the underarm point. Stitches are bound off for underarm, then Sleeve caps are worked flat. • Cross-front is narrower than cross-back on Yoke. • Shoulders are seamed, then Sleeves set in. • Cowl is picked up directly from neckline and worked circularly. • When instructed to bind off, do so with a very loose tension. Due to Brioche Stitch’s tendency to spread widthwise, it is necessary to bind off very loosely so that the edge does not gather. • Because of the softly spun nature of this yarn, some knitters prefer to do their seaming with a firmly spun yarn, such as sock yarn, in a similar color; alternatively, you may add twist into the yarn (in the same direction as the yarn is plied) as you seam to add tensile strength. STITCH PATTERNS 1x1 Ribbing (odd number of stitches; 1-round repeat) Round 1: *Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end. Repeat Round 1 for pattern. Circular Brioche Stitch (Multiple of 2 stitches; 2-round repeat) Setup Round: *Yf-Sl1-YO(F), purl 1; repeat from * to end. Round 1: BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from * to end. Round 2: *Yf-Sl1-YO(F), BRP; repeat from * to end. Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 for pattern. Flat Brioche Stitch with Garter Stitch Selvedge (odd number of stitches; 2-row repeat) Setup Row (WS): Knit 1, *Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1; repeat from * to end. Row 1 (RS): Knit 1, *BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, BRK, knit 1. Row 2 (WS): Knit 1, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1. Repeat Rows 1 & 2 for pattern. Note that Setup row will be required only for swatching; within pattern, Flat Brioche Stitch is continued from Circular Brioche Stitch. www.brooklyntweed.net 4 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 SLEEVES Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Sleeve Increase Tubular Cast On Round a total of 4 (5, 7, 9, 11, 14) times; you now have 48 (52, 56, 62, 68, If you do not wish to work a Tubular Cast On, cast on 40 (42, 42, 44, 46, 74) stitches on your needle(s). 46) stitches using Size E needle(s) (suggested size: 6 mm/US 10), working yarn, and the Long-Tail Method, then proceed to the “Ribbed Cuff” sec- Work even until sleeve measures 20½ (20½, 21, 21, 21½, 21½)" from tion of pattern. cast-on edge, ending 1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 4) stitch(es) before BOR marker on final round. With Size D needle(s) in preferred style for working in the round (sug- gested size: 4½ mm/US 7) and waste yarn, loosely cast on 21 (22, 22, Shape Cap 23, 24, 24) stitches using the Long-Tail Method. Bind off next 2 (2, 4, 6, 6, 8) stitches (removing marker), knit to end. 46 (50, 52, 56, 62, 66) stitches remain. Switch to working yarn for Foundation Row, then work Row/Rounds 1-4 as directed in Special Techniques; you will have 40 (42, 42, 44, 46, Sleeve cap is worked back and forth from this point forward. Keep 1 46) stitches on your needle(s) after Row 1. stitch at each end of needle in garter stitch (knit it every row) while working in stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS) for remainder Switch to Size E needle(s) (suggested size: 6 mm/US 10) in preferred of cap. style for working in the round. Next Row (WS): Knit 1, purl to last stitch, knit 1. Ribbed Cuff Begin 1x1 Ribbing (see Stitch Patterns); work in pattern until cuff Cap Double Decrease Row (RS): Knit 4, FD2-R, knit to last 8 stitches, measures 3" from cast-on edge. FD2-L, knit 4. (4 stitches decreased) Turning Round: Switch to Size A needle(s) (suggested size: 6½ mm/ Repeat the Cap Double Decrease Row every other row 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 4) US 10½) in preferred style for working in the round; work in 1x1 more time(s). Ribbing to end. Work 1 row even (WS). Switch to Size C needle(s) (suggested size: 5 mm/US 8) in preferred 38 (42, 44, 44, 46, 46) stitches remain. style for working in the round. Continue in 1x1 Ribbing until Cuff measures 6" from cast-on edge. Cap Decrease Row (RS): Knit 4, K2tog, knit to last 6 stitches, SSK, knit Note: Cuff will be turned back 3". 4. (2 stitches decreased) Shape Sleeve Repeat the Cap Decrease Row every other row 11 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12) Switch to Size A needle(s) in preferred style for working in the round more times. and stockinette stitch (knit every round). Work 14 (14, 10, 10, 6, 6) rounds. Work 1 row even (WS). 14 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) stitches remain. Sleeve Increase Round: Knit 4, Inv-L, knit to last 5 stitches, Inv-R (see Abbreviations), knit 4. (2 stitches increased) Neatly bind off remaining stitches from the RS. Repeat instructions for second Sleeve. Repeat the Sleeve Increase Round every 18th (14th, 12th, 10th, 8th, 8th) row 3 (4, 4, 2, 10, 1) more time(s), then every 0 (0, 10th, 8th, 0, 6th) row 0 (0, 2, 6, 0, 12) times.
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