OSHIMA Cowl Neck Pullover by Jared Flood

BROOKLYN TWEED OSHIMA COMPONENTS

Materials Approximately 2285 (2500, 2775, 3045, 3385, 3590) yards of fingering weight wool yarn (held double throughout) 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) skeins of Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yards/50g) Photographed in color Sweatshirt

Gauge 16 stitches & 24 rows/rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch with Size A needle(s) and yarn held double, after blocking 14 stitches & 44 rows/rounds = 4" in Brioche Stitch with Size B needle(s) and yarn held double, after blocking Note that for Brioche Stitch, each elongated stitch in a column of knit stitches represents two rows: when you count these it will appear that 22 rows = 4"

Needles Size A (for stockinette stitch) One each 16" and 32" circular needles, and one set of DPNs* in size needed to obtain stockinette stitch gauge listed Suggested Size: 6½ mm (US 10½) Size B (for Brioche Stitch and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needles in size needed to obtain Brioche Stitch gauge listed Suggested Size: 5½ mm (US 9) Size C (for Ribbing and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needles, and one set of DPNs*, three sizes smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 5 mm (US 8) Size D (optional; for Tubular Cast On only, and Collar) One each 16" and 32" circular needle and one set of DPNs*, four sizes smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 4½ mm (US 7) Size E (for Cuffs and Collar only) One 16" circular needle and one set of DPNs* one size smaller than Size A Suggested Size: 6 mm (US 10) *32” circular needle can be used instead of DPNs if using Magic Loop Method

Finished Dimensions 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" circumference at bust Intended Ease: + 4-5" Sample shown is size 38” with + 4" ease on model

Additional Tools Stitch markers (including one in a unique style or color for BOR), removable markers or coil-less safety pins, cable needle (CN), blunt tapestry needle, stitch holders or waste yarn, a small amount of sock yarn in a similar color for seaming (see Construction Notes), sewing needle and thread to match yarn color (for tacking cuffs in place) If working Tubular Cast On, you will also require smooth waste yarn (DK or worsted weight cotton, silk, or bamboo yarn) and Size D 32" circular needle and DPNs .You may use another cast on if desired, omitting these tools. Size D 16" circular needle is used for collar; do not omit this length.

Skill Level óóóóê

2 Pattern Version 1.0 Last Revised September 2013 OSHIMA SCHEMATICS

7¼ (7¾, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9½)" 6 (6, 6½, 6½, 6½, 6½)" 3½ (4, 4½, 4½, 5, 5)" 5½ (6, 6, 6½ , 5¼ (5¼, 5¾, 5¾, 7¼, 7¾)" 5¾, 5¾)"

5 (5¼, 5¼, 5¾, 6¼ (6¼, 6¼, 3 (3, 3½, 3½, 6, 6¼)" 6¾, 6¾, 6¾)" 3½, 3½)" 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12)"

4¾ (5, 5½, 12 (13, 14, 15½, 17, 18½)" 6, 6½, 7)" 15¾ (16¼, 17½, 18, 18½, 19¼)" Cross Back 14½ (15¼, 16¼, 16¾, 17½, 18)" Cross Front

14½ (14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½)" 10¼ (10½, 11¼, 11¼, 12¼, 12¼)"

2½"

6" Doubled Cuff

34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54)" Bust Circumference

35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55)" Hip Circumference 10 (10½, 10½, 11, 11½ , 11½)"

Notes: Pullover is worked in the round; schematic is shown in exploded view to illustrate shaping and construction details Dotted lines indicate beginning-of-round and side “seam” (garment body only) Note that cross-back is slightly wider than cross-front.

www.brooklyntweed.net 3 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 FROM THE DESIGNER “When Fall arrives, I love bringing my favorite ‘knockaround’ sweaters out from summer storage and reintegrating them into my wardrobe. This classic pullover is an homage to coziness, featuring a generous cowl neck worked in squishy Brioche Stitch, a subtle A-line silhouette, doubled sleeve cuffs, and a Brioche Stitch yoke. The graphic Brioche columns spotlight the full-fashioned shaping details at the garment’s shoulders and neckline.” –Jared Flood

CONSTRUCTION NOTES • Yarn is held double throughout; the term “working yarn” refers to two strands held together as one. • Body is worked circularly from the lower edge to the underarm point. Stitches are bound off for underarm, and then the front and back of the yoke are worked flat for the remainder of garment. • Sleeves are worked circularly from the lower edge to the underarm point. Stitches are bound off for underarm, then Sleeve caps are worked flat. • Cross-front is narrower than cross-back on Yoke. • Shoulders are seamed, then Sleeves set in. • Cowl is picked up directly from neckline and worked circularly. • When instructed to bind off, do so with a very loose tension. Due to Brioche Stitch’s tendency to spread widthwise, it is necessary to bind off very loosely so that the edge does not gather. • Because of the softly spun nature of this yarn, some knitters prefer to do their seaming with a firmly spun yarn, such as sock yarn, in a similar color; alternatively, you may add twist into the yarn (in the same direction as the yarn is plied) as you seam to add tensile strength.

STITCH PATTERNS 1x1 Ribbing (odd number of stitches; 1-round repeat) Round 1: *Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Round 1 for pattern.

Circular Brioche Stitch (Multiple of 2 stitches; 2-round repeat) Setup Round: *Yf-Sl1-YO(F), purl 1; repeat from * to end. Round 1: BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from * to end. Round 2: *Yf-Sl1-YO(F), BRP; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1 & 2 for pattern.

Flat Brioche Stitch with Garter Stitch Selvedge (odd number of stitches; 2-row repeat) Setup Row (WS): Knit 1, *Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1; repeat from * to end. Row 1 (RS): Knit 1, *BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, BRK, knit 1. Row 2 (WS): Knit 1, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 for pattern. Note that Setup row will be required only for swatching; within pattern, Flat Brioche Stitch is continued from Circular Brioche Stitch.

www.brooklyntweed.net 4 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 SLEEVES Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Sleeve Increase Tubular Cast On Round a total of 4 (5, 7, 9, 11, 14) times; you now have 48 (52, 56, 62, 68, If you do not wish to work a Tubular Cast On, cast on 40 (42, 42, 44, 46, 74) stitches on your needle(s). 46) stitches using Size E needle(s) (suggested size: 6 mm/US 10), working yarn, and the Long-Tail Method, then proceed to the “Ribbed Cuff” sec- Work even until sleeve measures 20½ (20½, 21, 21, 21½, 21½)" from tion of pattern. cast-on edge, ending 1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 4) stitch(es) before BOR marker on final round. With Size D needle(s) in preferred style for working in the round (suggested size: 4½ mm/US 7) and waste yarn, loosely cast on 21 (22, 22, Shape Cap 23, 24, 24) stitches using the Long-Tail Method. Bind off next 2 (2, 4, 6, 6, 8) stitches (removing marker), knit to end. 46 (50, 52, 56, 62, 66) stitches remain. Switch to working yarn for Foundation Row, then work Row/Rounds 1-4 as directed in Special Techniques; you will have 40 (42, 42, 44, 46, Sleeve cap is worked back and forth from this point forward. Keep 1 46) stitches on your needle(s) after Row 1. stitch at each end of needle in garter stitch (knit it every row) while working in stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS) for remainder Switch to Size E needle(s) (suggested size: 6 mm/US 10) in preferred of cap. style for working in the round. Next Row (WS): Knit 1, purl to last stitch, knit 1. Ribbed Cuff Begin 1x1 Ribbing (see Stitch Patterns); work in pattern until cuff Cap Double Decrease Row (RS): Knit 4, FD2-R, knit to last 8 stitches, measures 3" from cast-on edge. FD2-L, knit 4. (4 stitches decreased)

Turning Round: Switch to Size A needle(s) (suggested size: 6½ mm/ Repeat the Cap Double Decrease Row every other row 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 4) US 10½) in preferred style for working in the round; work in 1x1 more time(s). Ribbing to end. Work 1 row even (WS). Switch to Size C needle(s) (suggested size: 5 mm/US 8) in preferred 38 (42, 44, 44, 46, 46) stitches remain. style for working in the round. Continue in 1x1 Ribbing until Cuff measures 6" from cast-on edge. Cap Decrease Row (RS): Knit 4, K2tog, knit to last 6 stitches, SSK, knit Note: Cuff will be turned back 3". 4. (2 stitches decreased)

Shape Sleeve Repeat the Cap Decrease Row every other row 11 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12) Switch to Size A needle(s) in preferred style for working in the round more times. and stockinette stitch (knit every round). Work 14 (14, 10, 10, 6, 6) rounds. Work 1 row even (WS). 14 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) stitches remain. Sleeve Increase Round: Knit 4, Inv-L, knit to last 5 stitches, Inv-R (see Abbreviations), knit 4. (2 stitches increased) Neatly bind off remaining stitches from the RS. Repeat instructions for second Sleeve. Repeat the Sleeve Increase Round every 18th (14th, 12th, 10th, 8th, 8th) row 3 (4, 4, 2, 10, 1) more time(s), then every 0 (0, 10th, 8th, 0, 6th) row 0 (0, 2, 6, 0, 12) times.

www.brooklyntweed.net 5 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 BODY Transition to Brioche Stitch Tubular Cast On Transition Decrease Round: Knit 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), *knit 5, k2tog, knit 6, If you do not wish to work a Tubular Cast On, cast on 140 (156, 172, 188, k2tog; repeat from * to 7 (0, 7, 0, 7, 0) stitches before marker, [k5, 204, 220) stitches using Size C 32" circular needle, working yarn, and the k2tog] 1 (0, 1, 0, 1, 0) time(s), slip marker, knit 0 (1, 1, 2, 2, 3), [k6, Long-Tail Method, then proceed to the “Ribbed Hem” section of pattern. k2tog] 1 (0, 1, 0, 1, 0) time(s), **knit 5, k2tog, knit 6, k2tog; repeat from ** to end. 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) stitches decreased; 118 With Size D circular needle and waste yarn, loosely cast on 71 (79, 87, (132, 146, 160, 174, 188) stitches now on needle [59 (66, 73, 80, 95, 103, 111) stitches using the Long-Tail Method. 87, 94) stitches for each of Front and Back].

Switch to working yarn for Foundation Row, then work Row/Rounds Switch to Size B 32" circular needle (suggested size: 5½ mm/US 9) 1-4 as directed in Special Techniques; you will have 140 (156, 172, 188, and Circular Brioche Stitch (see Stitch Patterns). Work Setup Round 204, 220) stitches on your needle(s) after Row 1. once; then repeat Rounds 1 & 2 until piece measures 12¾ (13, 13¾, 13¾, 14¾, 14¾)" from cast-on edge, ending with Round 2 of pattern. Switch to Size C 32" circular needle. Divide for Front and Back Ribbed Hem Division Row (RS): Bind off 0 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3) stitch(es), knit 1 (0, 0, 0, 0, Begin 1x1 Ribbing; work in pattern until ribbing measures 2½" from 0) for new selvedge stitch (last stitch over which bound-off stitch cast-on edge. was passed is new selvedge stitch for all sizes except 34") work in established Brioche Stitch to last stitch, knit last stitch, remove marker. Main Body Transfer remaining 59 (66, 73, 80, 87, 94) stitches for Back onto waste Switch to Size A 32" circular needle. yarn.

Marker Placement Round: Knit 70 (78, 86, 94, 102, 110), place Work will continue on Front stitches only. marker for side seam, knit to end. Place a removable marker (or coil-less safety pin) on the last row Switch to stockinette stitch (knit all rounds); work until piece mea- worked on both Front and Back. This marker will act as a reference sures 9½" from cast-on edge. point when measuring yoke length.

Decrease Round: Knit 5, k2tog, knit to 7 stitches before side seam marker, SSK, knit 5, slip marker, knit 5, k2tog, knit to last 7 stitches, SSK, knit 5. [4 stitches decreased; 136 (152, 168, 184, 200, 216) stitches now on needle]

Continue in stockinette stitch until Body measures 12 (12¼, 12½, 12½, 12¾, 12¾)" from cast-on edge.

www.brooklyntweed.net 6 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 FRONT Shape Left Neck Edge Next Row (WS): Bind off 0 (0, 3, 2, 3, 4) stitches, knit 1 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0) Next Row (WS): Knit 1, * Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 for new selvedge stitch (last stitch over which bound-off stitch stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1. was passed is new selvedge stitch for all sizes except 34 & 38"), *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1. Left Neck Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, *BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from 59 (65, 69, 75, 81, 87) stitches remain. * to last 8 stitches, BRK3tog, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] twice, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased) Continue in Flat Brioche Stitch with Garter Stitch Selvedge pattern; work 2 rows. Continuing in established pattern, repeat the Left Neck Decrease Row every 6th row 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) more times. Shape Armholes Armhole Double Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, [BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO] twice, Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Left Neck BRSSSK, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, BRK3tog, Decrease Row 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) times; you now have 13 (13, 15, 15, 15, 15) [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] twice, knit 1. (4 stitches decreased) stitches on your needle.

Work 3 rows even in established pattern. Work in established pattern until piece measures 5½ (5¾, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 7¾)" from marked Division Row, ending with a WS row. Repeat the last 4 rows 0 (1, 1, 2, 3, 4) more time(s), then repeat the Armhole Double Decrease Row once more. Shape Left Armhole Edge Left Armhole Increase Row (RS): Knit 1, [BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO] twice, BRK- Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Armhole YO-BRK, * Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. (2 Double Decrease Row a total of 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6) times; you now have 51 stitches increased) (53, 57, 59, 61, 63) stitches on your needle. Continuing in established pattern, repeat the Left Armhole Increase Continue in established pattern, until piece measures 3½ (3¾, 4¼, Row every 12th row 3 more times. 4¼, 4¾, 5¼)" from marked Division Row, ending with WS row. Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Left Armhole Divide for Neckline Increase Row a total of 4 times, you now have 21 (21, 23, 23, 23, 23) Mark off center 13 (15, 15, 17, 15, 17) stitches using 2 removable stitches on your needle. markers. Work in established pattern until piece measures 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, Division Row (RS): Knit 1, *BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from * to 2 stitches 11½, 12)" from marked Division Row, ending with a WS row. before first neck marker, BRK, knit 1; join in a second ball of yarn (doubled) and bind off center 13 (15, 15, 17, 15, 17) stitches Bind off all stitches with a very loose tension (due to Brioche Stitch’s (removing neck markers), knit 1, **BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat from tendency to spread widthwise, it is necessary to bind off very loosely ** to last 2 stitches, BRK, knit 1. 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 23) stitches so that the edge does not gather). remain on each side.

Transfer stitches for (wearer’s) Right Front onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. Work will continue on Left Front only.

www.brooklyntweed.net 7 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 Shape Right Neck Edge BACK Return 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 23) held stitches for Right Front to needle. Transfer held stitches for Back onto Size B 32" circular needle. Rejoin Yarn is in position to work a WS row. working yarn (double strand) ready to work a RS row.

Next Row (WS): Knit 1, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 Next Row (RS): Bind off 0 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3) stitch(es), knit 1 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1. for new selvedge stitch (last stitch over which bound-off stitch was passed is new selvedge stitch for all sizes except 34") work Right Neck Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, [BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO] twice, BRSSSK, in established Brioche Stitch to last stitch, knit 1. *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased) Next Row (WS): Bind off 0 (0, 3, 2, 3, 4) stitches, knit 1 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0) for new selvedge stitch (last stitch over which bound-off stitch Continuing in established pattern, repeat the Right Neck Decrease was passed is new selvedge stitch for all sizes except 34 & 38"), Row every 6th row 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) more times. *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, Yf-Sl1-YO, knit 1. 59 (65, 69, 75, 81, 87) stitches remain. Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Right Neck Decrease Row 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) times; you now have 13 (13, 15, 15, 15, 15) Continue in Flat Brioche Stitch with Garter Stitch Selvedge; work 2 stitches on your needle. rows.

Work in established pattern until piece measures 5½ (5¾, 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, Shape Armholes 7¾)" from marked Division Row, ending with a WS row. Armhole Double Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, [BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO] twice, BRSSSK, * Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK; repeat from * to last 8 stitches, Shape Right Armhole Edge BRK3tog, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] twice, knit 1. (4 stitches decreased) Right Armhole Increase Row (RS): Knit 1, *BRK, Yf-Sl1-YO; repeat Work 3 rows even in established pattern. from * to last 6 stitches, BRK-YO-BRK, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] twice, knit 1. (2 stitches increased) Repeat the last 4 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 2, 3) more time(s), then repeat the Armhole Double Decrease Row 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) more time(s). Continuing in established pattern, repeat the Right Armhole Increase Row every 12th row 3 more times. Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Armhole Double Decrease Row a total of 1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5) times; you now have 55 Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Right Armhole (57, 61, 63, 65, 67) stitches on your needle. Increase Row a total of 4 times, you now have 21 (21, 23, 23, 23, 23) stitches on your needle. Continue in established pattern, until piece measures 4¾ (5, 5½, 6, 6½, 7)" from marked Division Row, ending with WS row. Work in established pattern until piece measures 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12)" from marked Division Row, ending with a WS row.

Bind off all stitches with a very loose tension.

www.brooklyntweed.net 8 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 Shape Shoulders FINISHING Shoulder Double Decrease Row (RS): Work as for Armhole Double Assembly Decrease Row. (4 stitches decreased) Using a steam-iron or garment steamer, steam-block each garment Work 3 rows even in established pattern. piece to schematic dimensions. Steaming the pieces before assembly makes them easier to work with when seaming. Repeat the last 4 rows 7 (7, 8, 8, 8, 8) more times, then repeat the Shoulder Double Decrease Row once more. Using matching sock yarn for sewing (if desired), sew shoulder seams by joining flat bound-off edge of Right or Left Front to corresponding Work 1 row even (WS). sloped edge of Back Shoulder. Note that bound-off edges of Front will be slightly longer than the corresponding sloped edge of Back, Upon completion of this section you will have worked the Shoulder and will need to be gently eased during seaming. Double Decrease Row a total of 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10) times; you now have 19 (21, 21, 23, 25, 27) stitches on your needle. Set sleeve cap into armhole using mattress stitch and a single-stitch seam allowance. Bind off all stitches with a very loose tension. Tack Sleeve Cuffs (Optional) Fold back Cuffs at Turning Round. Using a sewing needle and matching thread, sew Cuffs in place, sewing through both layers of fabric (for best results sew through a purl ditch, rather than a knit column). Attach to Sleeves at two points, directly opposite one another (one above underarm “seam” and one directly across on front of Sleeve).

By tacking the cuffs in place, the length of the overall sleeve is set. You do not have to sew down folded-back Cuffs, but you may find that it is more convenient when wearing the garment, as cuffs will not unfold.

Cowl Note: The Cowl is shaped with a combination of re-gauging (4 needle sizes are used throughout) and shaping with increases.

With Size C 16" circular needle, a double strand of working yarn, RS facing, and beginning at (wearer’s) right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 17 (19, 19, 21, 23, 25) stitches across Back Neck edge, place marker, pick up and knit 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 29) stitches down left side of Front Neck, place marker, pick up and knit 13 (15, 15, 17, 15, 17) stitches from bound-off edge at center front, place marker, pick up and knit 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 29) stitches up right side of Front Neck, place a unique marker for BOR and join work into the round. 72 (80, 84, 92, 96, 100) stitches now on needle.

www.brooklyntweed.net 9 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 Begin Circular Brioche Stitch. Work Setup Round once, then repeat SPECIAL TECHNIQUES Rounds 1 & 2 until Cowl measures 3¼" from pick-up round. 1x1 Tubular Cast On (Circular Knitting; even number of stitches) Using Size D needle(s) (suggested size: 4½ mm/US 7) in preferred Switch to Size D 16" circular needle and continue in established style for working in the round, waste yarn, and your preferred cast-on pattern until cowl measures 6¾ (6¾, 6¾, 7¼, 7¼, 7¼)" from pick-up method, loosely cast on the number of stitches directed for piece. Do round, ending with a Round 2 of pattern. not join.

Cowl Increase Round: BRK-YO-BRK, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] to 2 stitches Foundation Row (WS): Using working yarn, purl all stitches in row. before next marker, Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK-YO-BRK, slip marker, [Yf-Sl1- This row is worked directly into your waste yarn stitches. YO, BRK] to 2 stitches before next marker, Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK-YO- BRK, slip marker, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] to 1 stitch before next marker, Row 1 (Increase Row; RS): *Knit 1, insert your L needle tip from front Yf-Sl1-YO, slip marker, BRK-YO-BRK, [Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK] to last stitch, to back under the running thread between the stitch you just Yf-Sl1-YO. [8 stitches increased; 80 (88, 92, 100, 104, 108) stitches worked and the next stitch on L needle, then purl this stitch now on needle] (increasing one); repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 1, insert L Next Round: *Yf-Sl1-YO(F), BRP; repeat from * to the end of round, needle tip from front to back under the running thread between removing all markers except BOR as you encounter them. the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on L needle, then purl the lifted running thread together with last stitch on L Switch to Size B 16" circular needle and resume Circular Brioche needle. Stitch until Cowl measures 10 (10, 10, 10½, 10½, 10½)" from pick-up Join work into the round, placing a unique marker to indicate BOR. round, ending with a Round 2 of pattern. Round 2 (Tubular Knit Round): *Slip 1 with yarn in back, bring yarn Switch to Size E 16" circular needle and continue in established to front, purl 1, bring yarn to back; repeat from * to end. pattern until Cowl measures 13½ (13½, 13½, 14½, 14½, 14½)" from Round 3 (Tubular Purl Round): *Knit 1, bring yarn to front, slip 1 pick-up round, ending with a Round 2 of pattern. with yarn in front, bring yarn to back; repeat from * to end. Round 4: Work as for Round 2. Prepare stitches for Tubular Bind Off Next Round: Round 1: BRK, purl 1; repeat from * to end. You have now completed your Tubular Rounds and will begin working your ribbing according to pattern. You may remove the waste Break yarn, leaving a tail four times longer than the circumference of yarn from your Tubular Edge at any time by carefully snipping it with Cowl. scissors and unraveling it; however, it is recommended that you wait until you have worked 1-2" of fabric before removing. Take care dur- Bind off all stitches using the 1x1 Tubular Method (see Special Tech- ing this process to avoid accidentally cutting any of your main yarn. niques). Weave in all ends invisibly on the inside of garment. *This Tubular Cast On method is our staff favorite and go-to cast on for all regular ribs – we think it strikes the perfect balance between Wet-Block beautiful, functional result and not-too-fussy technique. We learned Wet-block finished garment following the tutorial under Special this method from our dear friend and colleague Catherine Lowe Techniques. (www.catherine-lowe.com) who developed it as a modified version of the traditional Italian Tubular Cast On.

www.brooklyntweed.net 10 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 Steam Blocking 1x1 Tubular Bind Off Lay finished project flat on an appropriate blocking surface, This is a method of binding off which uses Kitchener Stitch to create smoothing fabric flat with your hands. Pin garment according to a smooth edge. instructed dimensions (see Schematic), using T-pins if necessary. Set your iron to the wool setting (medium temperature with steam) and Separate the knit and purl stitches from each other onto 2 separate prepare a press cloth (a flat cotton or linen tea towel or piece of cloth needles, i.e., *slip the next knit stitch onto Needle 1 (Front), slip the of that weight) by soaking it in water and wringing it out. Lay the next purl stitch onto Needle 2 (Back); repeat from * until all stitches damp cloth over the knitted piece and hold the iron about ½" above are separated, with the knit stitches all on the Front Needle and the the cloth, sending bursts of steam through the cloth. The damp cloth purl stitches all on the Back Needle. will add extra steam and prevent you from accidentally scorching the Proceed as for Kitchener Stitch, to bind off the stitches by grafting piece. Re-wet the cloth as needed. Move the cloth and steam each them together. section of the knitting. Allow to dry completely before unpinning. Kitchener Stitch (Grafting) Wet-Blocking Kitchener Stitch is used to sew live stitches together in a way that Fill a sink or basin with warm water and a small amount of delicate mimics a row of knitting. Pieces to be joined are live on needles, dish soap or rinseless wool wash. Submerge fabric in water, gently with RSs facing out and both needle tips pointing to the right. Use a squeezing out any air bubbles so that the piece can remain under length of yarn approximately 4 times the length of the finished seam, water without being held there. Soak work for 30 minutes, allowing attached to the R edge of the Back knitted piece (use the yarn the fabric to become completely saturated. piece was knitted with, or attach a new length of yarn). Thread the yarn onto a blunt tapestry needle and follow the instructions below, Drain the sink and remove work. If you have used dish soap (rather working from right to left (note that you will work into each stitch than rinseless wool wash), fill the sink again once or twice to rinse twice): the soap from your fabric. Never place knitting directly under running water. 1. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to purl; pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle. Squeeze out excess water from your work, taking care not to twist or 2. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Needle as if to knit; wring fabric. Roll your fabric between two clean bath towels “burrito” pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle. style and firmly press towel roll. This will aid in removing moisture 3. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to knit, from the knitted piece. Remove piece from towels – your fabric slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle into should now feel damp but not saturated. next stitch on Front Needle as if to purl and pull yarn through this stitch, tugging it gently. Lay finished project on an appropriate blocking surface, smoothing 4. Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Needle as if to purl, fabric flat with your hands. Block garment to to instructed dimen- slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle into sions (see Schematic), using T-pins if desired. Allow garment to relax next stitch on Back Needle as if to knit and pull yarn through as it dries. this stitch, tugging it gently.

For circular knitting projects, fabric will dry with creases at the sides Repeat steps 3 and 4 until a single stitch remains on each needle, of the body and sleeves. For best results, steam these creases out af- adjusting the tension of the sewing yarn every few stitches so that ter garment is completely dry using a steam iron or garment steamer. it mimics the tension of the knitting. To finish, insert tapestry needle into final stitch on Front Needle as if to knit, slipping it off of needle. Now, insert tapestry needle into final stitch on Back Needle as if to purl, slipping it off of needle. Pull the yarn through and fasten off gently so as not to distort the stitches.

www.brooklyntweed.net 11 All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2013 ABBREVIATIONS K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together. (1 stitch decreased) BRK (Brioche Knit): Knit the next stitch together with its corresponding YO from the row below. SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit; Modified): Slip one stitch from L to R needle as if to knit, replace stitch on L needle in new orientation and knit BRP (Brioche Purl): Purl the next stitch together with its two stitches from L needle together through the back loops. (1 corresponding YO from the row below. stitch decreased) BRK3tog: Brk2tog (knit the next knit+YO together with the following FD2-R (Fashioned Decrease Right – Double): Place next 2 stitches purl stitch), return the stitch just worked to the L needle, pass onto cable needle (CN) and hold CN parallel to and behind the second stitch on L needle (with its corresponding YO) L needle. *Insert R needle into first stitch on L needle and first over first stitch. Return stitch from L to R needle. (2 stitches stitch on CN, knit these 2 stitches together; repeat from * once. decreased) (2 stitches decreased) BRSSSK: Slip 1 knitwise (this is a knit + its corresponding YO) from L FD2-L (Fashioned Decrease Left – Double): Place next 2 stitches to R needle, slip another stitch from L to R needle (this is a purl), onto CN and hold CN parallel to and in front of L needle. *Insert BRK one from L needle, pass the slipped stitches over the stitch R needle into first stitch on CN and first stitch on L needle, just worked. (2 stitches decreased) knit these 2 stitches together; repeat from * once. (2 stitches decreased) BRK-YO-BRK: Knit the next stitch together with its corresponding YO from the row below (BRK) without sliding stitch from L needle, Inv-R (Invisible Increase Right): Insert tip of R needle into right yarn over, then knit into the same stitch (and corresponding YO) leg of stitch below first stitch on left needle from back to front, again. (2 stitches increased) lifting this stitch up onto L needle tip. Knit the lifted stitch, then slip the original stitch purlwise with yarn in back (1 stitch BOR: Beginning of round increased; leans right) RS (Right Side): This term refers to the public side of the knitted Inv-L (Invisible Increase Left): Slip next stitch from L to R needle fabric, i.e. the fabric that will be visible when garment is worn. In purlwise, insert tip of L needle into the left leg of stitch below projects with reversible fabrics, RS will be assigned specifically at the stitch just slipped to R needle from back to front, lifting this the beginning of the pattern. stitch up onto L needle tip (the lifted stitch will sit on L needle in the wrong orientation). Knit the lifted stitch through the back WS (Wrong Side): This term refers to the non-public side of the loop (1 stitch increased; leans left) knitted fabric, i.e. the fabric that will not be visible when garment is worn. In projects with reversible fabrics, WS will be Yf-Sl1-YO (Yarn Forward, Slip 1, Yarn Over): Bring the working yarn assigned specifically at the beginning of the pattern. under the needle to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then bring the yarn over the needle (creating a YO L: Left (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of on top of the slipped stitch) to the back, in position to knit the your two working needles is being used). following stitch. This slipped stitch/yarn over pair is considered one stitch. R: Right (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of your two working needles is being used). Yf-Sl1-YO(F) (Yarn Forward, Slip 1, Yarn Over to Front): Bring the working yarn under the needle to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then bring the yarn over the needle (creating a YO on top of the slipped stitch) and back to the front (under the needle), in position to purl the following stitch. This slipped stitch/yarn over pair is considered one stitch.