SALON LINGERIE International
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PRESS RELEASE SALON International de la LINGERIE 23.24.25 January 2010 www.lingerie-paris.com © Valery Prestige © Wacoal Are the terms freedom and control a complete contradiction? Not necessarily Both terms conceal a single premise: that the boundaries of the body remain unknown to reason. A key trend this year reveals a desire to push back our bodies’ boundaries. Whether this involves control, performance and effort or relaxation, freedom and gentle movements. Ever more extreme sports are becoming widespread on the one hand, while relaxing and beautifying activities such as yoga and Pilates, etc. are increasingly popular ranslatingon thetrends other. From a design perspective, professionals are choosing the complex art their mode of expression and creating an infinite number t of femininity... of different versions. In lingerie terms, controlling the body is primarily a question of fabrics: satins, compact jerseys, optical lace, etc. The aim here is to sculpt, smooth and shape the body, offering hold without constraint. Beautifying the body in a sophisticated way, like Ritratti’s famous Star Cup or Valery’s lingerie coordinates in panne velvet and stiff lace. Parah spins a web around the hips and toys with lines, drawing on the body, as if in charcoal. Esbelt slims the waist with a net waist-cincher and tricks the onlooker with “buttock- enhancing” push-up pants. Selma smoothes the body in a one-piece with black strips. Wacoal proposes the Beauty Secret line which shapes and enhances the body line: leaving nothing to chance, it tackles hips, thighs, tummies... While the colour range for control and shapewear is somewhat understated, freer styles make the most of neutrals. For total relaxation, intimates must follow the curves of a woman’s body in an aesthetic and discrete © Lou juxtaposition which seems to say: “I feel beautiful”. Fabrics are reminiscent of the skin itself: toying with ultra-soft, honeycomb microfibres or airy resins. These intimates are all about lightness, a veritable celebration of curves and volumes in a make-up-inspired palette, ranging from smoky to beige tones, with the occasional splash of bright pastel. There are impressively discrete styles from Implicite (Néon) and Lou (Egérie) or body- shaping seamless designs (Rhiannon) by Fantaisie, available in a nude palette. LZ has created a whole line of discrete, body-hugging and figure-enhancing styles in brand new colourways (crushed raspberry, pistachio, etc.) which do not show through white clothing. And it’s also about loungewear - transformed into loungerie - refined and delicate from Lounge Lover with draped cashmere, sheepskin-style cotton from Occidente or silky and ultra-refined playsuits, which are popular this season from House of Girard or Jolidon. RodiNelly Forum Interview with Florence Peyrichou, lingerie coordinator Your forum features two concepts. Could you not decide between them? Quite the opposite! The forum is called “Body Unlimited” and explores two different ways of pushing back the body’s boundaries. © Chantelle Through performance, on the one hand, and letting go, on the other. For a successful choreography, the dancers must be performers and they need to be capable of letting their bodies express themselves freely. The two concepts are inseparably linked! What are the forum’s How did you come up with highlights? the forum design? The“Body Unlimited” concept enables We wanted the product display to us to open up to other sectors such be as striking as possible with a as sport, beauty, etc. The forum will veritable arty atmosphere. The idea feature performances by sportsmen was to make this forum a “living” and women, dancers and gymnasts space, a source of inspiration for all who will bring the concept to life. the Salon International de la Lingerie This will give us an opportunity to participants: international buyers, present specific fashion trends to designers, retailers, exhibitors and our visitors and highlight exhibitors’ journalists. products in a spectacular way. © Sexy panties © Occidente © Lou Body Unlimited © Les jupons de tess as justified by exceptional quality and creativity. The beginnings of a return to this quality-value can be observed on the market, where the notions of know-how and product durability are emerging in opposition to the throwaway, fast-fashion phenomenon: we are seeing a return of the couture spirit, the proud statement of genuine expertise, with ever more complex designs, perfectly executed garments and a host of rich details, an innovative vision with previously unexplored © Implicite shapes and fabrics… Experts reaffirm their expertise and know-how In the fashion domain, the term “savoir-faire” could not be more appropriately applied than in the intimates sector. Simone Pérèle celebrated its 60th birthday in 2008, Chantelle will turn 60 this year and the Cadolle success story dates back to 1889!... Over the course of these decades, fashions have evolved, women’s requirements have changed and techniques have been revolutionized... allowing lingerie and corsetry specialists to acquire a wealth of all-important experience and know-how. © Chantelle Do you know how many individual pieces it takes to make a single bra, for example? Thirty, on average. (14 components and between 11 and 18 Getting parts, depending on the complexity of the article). Making a bra is certainly not a simple matter! At Cadolle, each new bra takes six months to develop. your know-how The wider the size-range, the longer it takes to finalize: since fabrics are evolving and are selected noticed precisely for each size, in order to ensure optimal hold and fit for individual body-shapes. Each stage, each detail and each profession is Repositioning the market... crucial. Take the pattern-maker for example. In France, around sixty experienced pattern-makers Do brands help change attitudes or is it the other work in the corsetry domain. Far from declining, way round? In the last few years we have all it is a profession with a bright future, for which noticed a clear dilution in the notion of value and training colleges have recently been created. A hence prices. There is little doubt that the credit new generation of enthusiastic pattern-makers is crunch has contributed to this trend. Luxury is on the way... For lingerie specialists, the work of becoming accessible to all, ranges are segmented the pattern-maker requires painstaking attention into an ever increasing number of different levels to detail in order to provide the wellbeing that and discounters and web-based private sales are women expect from their lingerie. Creative teams taking off... This phenomenon has heightened and pattern-makers work hand-in-hand. consumers’ distrust of the notion of “price” … Our points of reference have become blurred and it’s The technical expertise required, the various time to make them clear again. stages in the creative and pattern-making process and the decision to use an exceptionally fine Calais The world of luxury, fashion in general and the lace rather than a less delicate fabric are just some intimates sector need to reclaim their “official” role of the criteria which restore the true value of the and re-establish their capacity to inspire dreams, “lingerie” product. Innovation makes all Communications the difference highlight know-how On the design side, professionals are ever on By reaffirming their savoir-faire and maximizing the look out for ways to combine wellbeing and innovation, corsetry and lingerie-makers raise the aesthetics. Invisible and “no-show” styles, for level of the range. This is immediately echoed in example, which were previously relegated to the their communications. The “French Art of Loving” “essential, but not necessarily sexy” category, by Aubade paved the way and a number of brands are receiving a great deal of interest, resulting in have since taken a closer look at their intrinsic increasingly high-design styles. The “Etincelle de values, in order to enhance their appeal through douceur” collection was already available from sales promises, visuals and products. Empreinte Aubade, with the brand revisiting invisible styles has thus penned a new signature “La beauté in slate-blue or raspberry red, featuring lace- généreuse” (curvaceous beauty). Simone Pérèle is print unfinished edges and Swarowski crystals reaffirming its identity with the tagline “Simone. So delicately placed on a band of flesh-coloured tulle. French.” and Chantelle called upon Peter Lindberg Empreinte also created an all-lace version entitled and Stéphanie Seymour to go “Beyond Beauty”. “Melody”. Kate Barry will be behind the lens for the 2009- 2010 collection, offering the brand access to the Lou has come up with another idea that was so world of art and contemporary style. For luxury simple it might have been overlooked... bonding that is never ostentatious... bra straps for extra softness and concealing elastic tape on the bra back to prevent unflattering bulges. Communication is also inseparable from brand Cadolle has created different shapes of bustier to experiences: the way clients are welcomed in best suit each woman’s body and personal style: boutiques or concept stores offering a completely square or sweetheart necklines, plunging or push- new type of retail. London’s fashionistas can head up cleavage, etc. to Apartment C, a store offering a multi-brand selection in an intimate “home” environment, Those who appreciate the shape-enhancing complete with lounge, library, etc. Dutch shoppers corsetry of yesteryear – ever more 21st century have the Kant Amsterdam boutique which regularly women seem to fall into this category – will organizes meetings offering advice and fittings. welcome the use of microfibre or cosmetic fabrics Each customer is measured and goes home with for the ultimate wellbeing. This innovation can two little cards showing their measurements (one be found in a new multi-functional retro girdle for the customer and one for her partner).