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Home , Kolonaki Square, Mount Lycabettus, Stoa of Attalos

The Acropolis is a must-see – but go early in the day, to avoid the heat and crowds

The mighty Parthenon temple has stood for almost 2,500 years Your first time? If you’re new to , it can be an overwhelming blend of beauty and chaos. Here’s how to get started…

07:00 Top of the world preserved ruins, dating back to the When you’ve just arrived in a great city, fifth century BC. Feeling the heat? it’s always good to start with an overview Seek shade in the , a – and 909ft offers the modern reconstruction of an ancient best. Approach the summit on foot, via Greek arcade (effectively the first the trail from Aristippou Street, or save shopping mall). Here you’ll also find on shoe leather by taking the funicular. the Ancient museum, packed with excavated treasures that transport 09:00 A walk through history you straight back to the glory days Athens used to be notorious for its of classical . traffic but the Archaeological Promenade, a 1.5-mile walkway linking all the major 15:00 Chilling out archaeological sites, has made the city We all know about ouzo, but frappe – a his is a city of infinitely more walkable. Your first stop? sweet iced coffee – is the other national paradoxes: imposing, A visit to the Acropolis. Dominated by drink of Greece. You can get it anywhere marble-clad ruins the mighty Parthenon – the ancient and everywhere, but the , Athens’ tell of the birth of temple that ranks alongside the oldest residential quarter, is packed with democracy and Pyramids and the Roman Colosseum friendly cafes where you can sip yours philosophy, of as a global icon – the site is best while playing backgammon (boards TWestern civilisation itself. To explored in early morning, to avoid are usually provided). young Athenians, their city is a the crowds and the midday heat. sophisticated cosmopolitan hub, 19:00 Smashing time with electrifying nightlife, a 12:00 Kebab o’clock Klimataria, which translates as ‘grape booming arts scene and world- Is it worth waiting half an hour for a vines’ is a family-run taverna offering class food. Tourists come in search kebab? In short, yes. Workers, students outstanding local food and wine, and of the old Greece – of bougainvillea- and off-duty chefs queue patiently there’s truly no better way to round off draped cafes and sleepy tavernas outside Kostas, near , your first trip to the city. Expect mouth- – and some leave shocked by the for tender, spicy skewers in fresh pitta watering Mediterranean cuisine, music, chaos and commotion (though pillows. Wash yours down with a beer, and dance and – of course – the famous Athens pedestrian zoning, it must be said, you’ll still have change from €5. Be quick breaking of plates. is helping to change all that). But though – they usually sell out by 2.30pm. The greatest jewel of all antiquity, Athens has endured a tough time in all visitors, whether they be classical THE BASICS the modern world. But today’s Greek capital is bursting with life – and scholars or ouzo enthusiasts, can 13:30 A trip to the shops... ✱ Archaeological sites: odysseus.culture.gr agree on one thing: Athens is quite You’ve seen the Parthenon, now pay ✱ Kostas kebabs: whyathens.com/kostas there has never been a better time to visit, writes Amelia Glean simply unforgettable. a visit to the Agora, a complex of well- ✱ Klimataria: klimataria.gr

78 WORLD OF CRUISING | MAY 2019 | www.worldofcruising.co.uk www.worldofcruising.co.uk | MAY 2019 | WORLD OF CRUISING 79 1 day 3 ways

Today’s Athenians rub shoulders with their ancient forebears

Love olives? You’ll find plenty of new varieties to sample

Chic yachting marinas Athens’ Central line the coast to the Market is a must Been there? Go here! south of the city for foodies... Explored the key sights? Tick off these spots too, and you’re well on your way to knowing Athens inside out

09:00 Culture vulture boutiques line the side streets. If you’re It would be a crying shame to visit looking for foodie souvenirs, Le Chocolat Live like a local Athens for a second time without seeing (18 Ermou St) is well worth a visit for the , a huge institution local oils, wine and, as the name would Think you’ve seen it all? It’s time to dig a little deeper... that embraces seven sites and all ages suggest, the finest artisan chocs. of and design. If you have time 10:30 Brunch munch and bustle by visiting the city’s southern for just one gallery, make it the Pireos 20:00 Drinks all round Cuisine is one of the glories of modern coastline, with its upmarket marinas Street Annexe, a somewhat forbidding Athens’ bar terraces are among its best Greece – and at 32 Solonos St, near Mount and sandy beaches. For clear waters pink cube that houses the most eye- features – especially at night – so after Lycabettus, you’ll find it raised to an art with smaller crowds, head to the pebbly popping contemporary art. dinner, join the beautiful people for form. Philos café, inside a gorgeous coves at the southern tip of the Attic ...as is an authentic cocktails on tree-lined Square. townhouse with vintage tiles and raw peninsula, a couple of hours’ bus ride kebab, wrapped in chewy pitta bread 10:30 Food for thought Or for edgier, more hipsterish hangouts, concrete walls, is a gem, serving a superb from the city centre. If time allows, stay You may want to skip breakfast before try Exarchion, just down the road. brunch with excellent coffee. Don’t miss to see the sun set behind the temple of embarking on the three-and-a-half-hour the strapatsada – a dish of scrambled Poseidon at Sounion. Athens food tour, which will take you 22:00 The night is young... eggs with tomatoes and oregano. around the Syntagma, The neighbourhood of , close to 20:00 Open all hours and Psirri neighbourhoods. Savour the Acropolis, is perfect for bar-hopping. GET ON BOARD 12:00 Four corners For more than a century, the Athenian traditional Greek specialities at various And if you find one that floats your boat, invented the city square, intelligentsia have congregated for family-run establishments, and there’s no need to check your watch – ✱ Celebrity 10-night cruise and the plateia remains central to an ouzo at Dexameni, located in the experience the sensory assault that Athens is a city that stays up late. If aboard Celebrity Constellation, Athenian life today. Every neighbourhood foothills of Mount Lycabettus. The is the vast Central Market. If you’re in clubbing is more your scene, head for round-trip from Venice via has its own – a place for locals to meet, tables are shaded by trees, and with search of the very best Greek coffee, Gazi district, just northwest of the Dubrovnik, Crete, Mykonos, dine, drink, listen to music or just find waiters dashing up and down the hill, bougatsa (filo pastry filled with custard Acropolis, where you’ll find Lohan – a Athens and Santorini, departing a patch of shade to pass the time of day. balancing trays of drinks and minty cream), baklava and perfectly cooked glitzy venue set up by the eponymous 15 August 2019, from £1,755, For a typical taste of the good life, make meatballs, it’s like being on a Greek souvlaki, you’ll be in gastro-heaven. Hollywood wild-child, with world-class iglucruise.com your way to Plateia Agias Eirinis and island. Try it before catching a movie DJs, sound and lighting. ✱ Crystal 13-night ‘Mediterranean mingle with the locals while enjoying at the open-air cinema next door, and 15:00 Retail fix Passage’ cruise aboard Crystal the entertainment and delicious street be sure to return for a nightcap. It’s Ready to burn a few calories? It’s time THE BASICS Serenity from Athens to food that surrounds you. open until 3am in spring and summer… to pound the pavements in search of ✱ Benaki Museum: benaki.gr Barcelona via Sicily, Sorrento, designer bargains. Ermou is the main ✱ Food tour: athenswalkingtours.gr Rome, Florence and Monaco, 13:30 Hit the beach THE BASICS drag for big international brands (with ✱ Le Chocolat: chocolat.com.gr departing 23 October 2019, from Craving some peace and quiet? Spend ✱ Philos: facebook.com/philos.athens prices lower than at home), while quirkier ✱ Lohan: lohanathens.com £5,260, crystalcruises.co.uk the rest of your day away from the hustle ✱ Outdoor cinema: cinedexameni.gr

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