Leisure

orea has been good to our fam- Also, the Official Korean Tourism Organi- 3. Gyeongbokgung () Again ily both times we’ve been stationed zation (KTO) has a thorough website and nu- we are back to ancient with a visit to K here. We have enjoyed the small merous ways to get involved (www. visitkorea. Gyeongbokgung. Seoul has four palaces, but town feel of Air Base; running into or.kr). The KTO also offers the amazing 1330 this is the biggest that allows you to explore friends at the BX and Post Office daily, biking phone number; call it anytime you need trans- on your own. is a close sec- and walking everywhere, and having a squad- lation help or travel information like bus or ond and includes the pretty Biwon (secret ron full of people to rely on. But that isn’t the ferry times. garden), but must be visited on a joined tour entire Korea experience. from the ticket office which can be a bit pro- We’ve learned to read Hangeul, eaten ev- MUST-SEE SIGHTS hibited for those on a time crunch or with kids. Culture & Language erything imaginable, and traveled almost This is the absolute must-do list. If you are The palace is the first of four must-dos that every inch of the peninsula. Throughout our brand new to Korea, these would be good are in Seoul, and the Dragon Hill Lodge at experiences, it has been the interactions with firsts. And if you have family come visit, this Yongsan is my absolute favorite home base for Korean people or spontaneous hilarity of Ko- list makes a great introduction to the country. touring around the city. rean methods that make an Osan (or Yongsan, They are all easily accessible via public trans- 4. N’Seoul Tower (Seoul) A trip up to Cell phones Humphreys, Kunsan or Red Cloud, etc.) as- port, inter-base bus, or base travel offices. N’Seoul tower at sunset it absolutely wonder- signment memorable. 1. Korean Folk Village This may shock ful; on a clear night you can watch the entire This is a beautiful country! Get out and en- some as the No. 1 thing on this list, but the folk city light up and soak up the feeling of being joy it. Set aside any preconceived notions and village in Yongin is a wonderful introduction part of the gigantic whole that is Seoul. There embrace the opportunity living abroad has of- to old Korean culture that truly helps build an are a few options to get up Namsan Mountain: fered you. appreciation for the Korean people. I love it in Taxi to the cable car, take a Namsan bus, or Education So, without further waxing nostalgic, here the fall and spring. This place fed my obses- hike from one of the parking lots. It is not nec- are my top 100 things to do in Korea! They are sion with how pre-industrial cultures heated essary to go up the tower for a fun experience, triflingly organized by region. One caveat be- their homes; ondol floors are the best. but to see the 360 views of the city it can’t be fore we get started: I appreciate unique cultur- 2. DMZ An absolute must-do for an in- beat. For a very special date, a visit to N’Grill is al experiences and beautiful times outdoors your-face look at the reason our armed servic- incredible – make reservations for 20 minutes way more than urban nightlife and shopping es are in this country. This is it, folks, the real prior to sunset. Directions and varying costs at Transportation that I can experience elsewhere. Visit my blog deal. Book a tour through the travel office on www.nseoultower.co.kr at RamblingFamily.com for a KOREA MAP base or the USO. Make sure your trip includes Shopping is not a favorite of mine, but this with all these places, and more! the tunnels and the JSA. shopping is a cultural experience. Namdae-

Private vehicles My top 100 things to do in Korea Online By Kat Nickola Legal Shopping Leisure Leisure

Namdaemun

52 Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA Leisure

mun is an incredible collection of buildings to a nearly 1-kilometer forested walk along a Osan or trek to the Gwangjang market in and underground spaces crammed with stall stream. It is absolutely bursting with color in Seoul, and try it all. Dip the eomuk fish cakes, after stall of vendors selling everything under the fall. Unfortunately, public transport is not sit at a metal barrel on the plastic stools and the sun. Dongdaemun has a gigantic fabric simple to most Korean temples as they are partake of soju and raw squid with old men, Culture & Language market nearly bursting with trendy fashion conventionally up in the mountains. Magoksa have some fried corndog goodness, or even go designer subordinates running around with is no different, so driving by car is best. Go the distance and eat “pundaeggi” (silkworm lists; plus two more sections feature the fash- south on I-1 or 39 and choose a connector to larva). ions of the day (or night) with half open daily 329. The parking lot is located at 36.556542, 10. See a Show (Seoul) There is a lot of and half open nightly. Namdaemun is my 127.020494. A close second choice for Korean talent and creativity in Korea! Go to a concert, pick. www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr temple is Guinsa, which has a steep mountain- watch a play, see the symphony, or watch a 6. Korean War Memorial (Seoul) Here ous approach, but accessible to everyone via non-verbal performance such as Bibop, Jump Cell phones is another sober reminder of what Korea has ITT trips. or Nanta. Seoul gets major acts and does ex- been through in its recent past. This well-done 8. Seoraksan National Park cellent Broadway. Easy booking at ticket.in- museum walks visitors through the entire truly is a gem in the northeastern part of the terpark.com history with many interactive exhibits and country. It features enormous granite out- videos; all in multiple languages. The actual croppings and durable pines perched precari- DAY TRIPS memorial at the center is simplistic and very ously high. The main entrance to the park has So, now you are here! This is a real assign- Education symbolic. There is also an extensive outdoor a large temple complex and cable car up to a ment, treat it as such, and find your niche. section featuring vehicles and equipment, plus windswept outcropping. There are many hik- There is a lot to do in Korea that has nothing to two very large wings with carved memorial ing options, but our favorite is in the south- do with the downtown scene, and a significant names of the fallen. With some parental ern portion along the Heullimgol Valley portion of it is nearby. All of these sites are guidance and discretion, I find it appropriate boardwalk trail to the Yaksuteo Ranger worthwhile to visit and most of them can be for all ages. www.warmemo.or.kr Station and then returning via a taxi. Note seen via public transportation. Some are obvi- Transportation 7. Magoksa Magoksa is my absolute fa- that the Seoraksan camp ground is outside the ously kid-specific, but Korean attractions are vorite regional temple to visit. It is situated park and not ideal for trail access. I highly rec- typically both single and family friendly alike. along a stream near Gongju and has a very ommend visiting mid-week as it gets insanely I have taken my children to every one of these serene setting. Like all Korean Buddhist tem- crowded on weekends. places. When traveling in Korea with kids, it’s ples, the approach is part of the mindfulness 9. Eat Korean street food This can be involved in a visit. At Magoksa, you are treated done anywhere! Walk out the main gate at Continued on page 54 Private vehicles Online Legal Shopping Leisure Leisure

Dongdaemun

Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA 53 Continued from page 53 the city library on the right side of have kid lands for cheap babysit- the road: 37.078602, 127.059540. ting, this one takes the cake for generally easier to navigate with- Another great day trip is the Py- sheer size and options. It costs out a stroller; if you must bring eongtaek City Tour; this is a more for these features and is a one, smaller is better. free day trip offered by the PIEF special treat for my kids. Even Begin right outside Osan Air ( International Ex- without children, this extra-large Base with a bike ride along the change Foundation) six times a HomePlus is worth a wander Jinwi river bike trail. Pedal out year to see the local sights and his- or just to visit the food court for the Morin Gate, turn left and fol- tory in our area. www.pief.or.kr lunch. low the road as it curves right out A little further afield, up in of town, turn left onto route 306 Osan City, are many wonder- SHOPPING at a light; the trail access is at the ful options for day trips (www. Speaking of shopping, there are next bridge over the river. You osan.go.kr). You could take a hike numerous options right outside could even follow the trail north- around the cute ancient Doksan- the gate. First, of course, are all ward to the Jinwi Community seong hilltop fortress where our friends and good neighbors Campground and Pool. views can extend down to Song- who own businesses along Sin- This campground is open year tan on a clear day. Nearby is the jang Shopping straight out the round and it makes a fun mid- location of a more recent military Osan Main Gate. This is the place week campout when it is com- skirmish: the UN Forces First to make personal friends with tal- pletely empty, though a faint Battle Memorial. This is the ented Koreans who can sew you a sewage smell wells up with west- location of the first battle fought custom fitted dress or suit, create erly winds. It’s also fun (and crazy with UN soldiers, mostly Ameri- a painting you’ve always wanted, loud) to watch the airplanes just can, as part of Task Force Smith make that blanket, embroider overhead! The public pools are during the Korean War. that bag, engrave that award, or open during summer only. Korea There is a small very informa- even find that special purse you’ve has numerous bike paths along tive and interactive museum, plus been longing for. their rivers, including another some outdoor static displays, a It’s also a great place to shop for close by in Osan City and the ex- lower level remembrance park, gifts to send home and traditional tensive peninsula-wide 4-rivers and the new memorial itself. You Korean crafts. This is where you trail system that includes bik- can also (very cautiously) cross will go for lunch and the place to ing along the Han river in Seoul. the street to see the original me- be in evenings. If you get to the You could even bike all the way morial erected in the 1955. I highly end of the road, swing left and from Seoul into the mountains recommend seeing this place! For then walk under the train tracks near Chuncheon and take the a different kind of family day out, you will be near the 4/9 Mar- subway back, or go the distance to visit the Osan Eco Park at the ket where the local shops are al- Busan! Visit www.riverguide. southern part of the city, where ways fun to explore. On days that or.kr for further details. you can enjoy the outdoors or go end in four or nine the area gets If you would prefer using your inside the tower for exhibits on crammed with the colorful um- own feet to get into nature, then water life and views over the city. brellas and seasonal produce of a the Songtan Buraksan Trail Another highlight is the Osan local farmers market. system is perfect and so close. Arboretum; a huge formal gar- Buying seasonally is still very There are many access points, den with beautiful trails, labeled much a way of life here, and it but the closest is via a connector trees, ponds and greenhouses. It doesn’t get much better than trail near the city library; exit the is right across the street from the purchasing a bag of sweet potato main gate, turn right and then left Osan College train station and from a little old ajuma at the 4/9 at the triangle, continue straight the nearby Super HomePlus Market. In utter contrast, a visit to over the tracks and past the bus with its extra-large kids play land. a Korean Department store Tongyeong terminal. The trailhead is behind While most department stores like Emart, Homeplus, or Lotte Leisure

Mart is also a worthwhile ven- further north, then the Seoul makes up for that with a full out- ture to explore Korean grocer- Grand Park Zoo is a great place door waterpark – the hot springs ies, see the modern appliances, to take the kids and has easy ac- sections of which is open year and ride the moving sidewalk. cess via public transportation. round. But, if a huge waterpark is Drop your kids in the playland This place is large and hilly, so what you are after, you have come and eat at the food court. bring the stroller. It can be done to the right peninsula; a quick on a tight budget by walking to the search on visitkorea.or.kr will give KID FRIENDLY gate, or take the little tram, which you many results. Some are even If you do have kids, there are is cheaper than the chairlift. Even indoors! certainly many options for them. deeper into the city is the Chil- Woongjin Playdoci even has Off base there are numerous dren’s Grand Park and Zoo an accompanying indoor ski hill. playgrounds hidden along back – where the small zoo is free, the So, in the heat of summer you can alleys and tucked into apartment animal show hysterical, the play- be cool or lounge in the pool. Al- complexes; the Songtan Inter- grounds large, and the amuse- ways be sure to bring your swim national Community Center ment rides pricey (but avoidable). cap to Korean pools; and suits park is easy walking distance out A final kid specific place in tend to be conservative. the front gate, through Sinjang Seoul that we found worthwhile shopping, and left along the train was the National Museum’s ROAD TRIPS tracks toward the Morin gate. Children’s Museum. There Now, let’s talk road trips. Korea If it is too cold or too hot, then are many children’s museums in is small, but so big on culture and a Kid Café is a must! Not only Korea, but this one was uniquely sights that it’s incredible what a are the local kid cafes fun for your done and focused on Korean art little weekend or weeklong road children, but they all have free Wi- and architecture; on actual items trip away from base will reward Fi for moms and dads, and mind- found in the adjacent National you. Always travel with an open ers to watch the kiddo’s play while Museum. We loved it. mind and be ready to pop into any you sit back and sip your coffee. information booth for a map to In Songtan, my kids and I prefer SEOUL find the funky attractions off the Kizzly for a good price, trampo- Seoul is chock full of places to beaten track. Nearly every prov- lines, train table and decent food. visit and things to do. You could ince, county and even town has Everland If you have a kid who loves trains, easily take a day trip to Seoul for their own tourist sites. With an then a quick trip up the subway something new each weekend and open schedule and a little practice to Uiwang Railroad Museum occupy a year-long tour with fun finding lodging, you will be ready will be a highlight. outings. There are the museums: for adventure. There are numerous outdoor The National Museum, Seo- Remember, there are tourist static displays of full size loco- daemun Natural History Mu- hotels (expensive and Western), motives, plus an indoor museum seum, the Trick Eye Museum, motels / love motels (cheaper and with a large model. Then there is Gwacheon Science Museum, themed), “minbak” (cheap home- the KidZania. Whew – this in- and many more. stays) and “hanok” (traditional door theme park up in Seoul is a There are outdoor options homestays that range wildly in mini kid-centric city where your like the Seoul Forest and hik- price). Pack up, plan little, and be children can try their hand at nu- ing Bukhansan. There is also ready for fun. All of these places merous occupations. It’s a wild shopping: The Flower Market, can be reached by public trans- place and gets crowded, but a fa- Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, portation, but the further reaches vorite for special occasions. Visit the Christmas Market, Insa- will need taxi access to and from the website (www.kidzania.co.kr) dong, Itaewon, Myeongdong, the nearest bus or train station. for specials. and the Antinque Market. Do Remember, the KTO 1330 phone When it’s time to take the chil- it all! number can help with those de- dren out and about, though, you There are plenty of other worth- tails! Driving is easiest. simply can’t beat Everland! It while day trips in the vicinity. Su- is our favorite amusement park won’s is a GO WEST in Korea, and the season passes UNESCO heritage sight, and a fun The western portion of Ko- were well worth our investment way to spend a day walking along rea is perfect for a first venture during the years we have lived the walls within the city. Instead away from base. Though not as here. If you can go mid-week of roughing it, how about visit the scenic as the rest of the country, you will have dramatically fewer nearby Asan Spa? The spa is huge it is close and features some of crowds. Of course, it’s not just and rivals the famous Dragon the most family-friendly beaches for kids and has the absolute best Hill Spa in Seoul. in the area. Follow route 34/32 wooden coaster I’ve ridden: the T- Though Asan Spavis doesn’t westward to the Taeanhaean Express! have an accompanying jjimjil- If you are ready to venture bang (co-ed relaxation space) it Continued on page 58 Everland

Culture & Language Cell phones Education

Hansando

Transportation Continued from page 55 visit a sauna for a full dip. Our go-to spot for a long week- great bike trail along the scenic Nearby Gyeryongsan Na- end has been, for a long time, the waterway. Even in the winter, National Park where you can tional Park has hiking trails, a small recreation area of Ganhy- it is a fun place to be with its fa- camp along the beach, swim in campground, and a pretty temple eon. This is a canyon with rock mous ice fishing festival and a the gentle West Sea waters, and to enjoy, plus there are ice climb- climbing, camping, a river to ex- great ice climbing wall. watch the tide go out – way way ing waterfalls in the winter. If you plore, and an old railroad to walk There are lots of outdoor ac-

Private vehicles out. would rather see cultural sights, along or pedal a rail bike. Rock tivities in Korea and ice climbing The western coast has tidal travel down to Gongju, where climbing in Korea is crowded on is really taking off. In fact. my flats like nowhere else, which the fortress walls surround a nat- weekends and sometimes the Ko- husband has said his only regret makes warmer shallow waters ural hilltop overlooking the river. reans’ safety is a bit sketch, but in leaving here is not starting ice and gentle waves for splashing You can hike around the entire the opportunities are amazing in climbing earlier!

Online and play. You will also see Kore- fortress, and see traditional pa- such a mountainous country. So ans digging for clams. The Gu- vilions in the interior. bring your own gear, a buddy to EAST MOUNTAINS rypo campground is a perfect There is also an excellent Kore- belay, and enjoy the rock. To get deeper into the moun- spot with a nice beach edged by an restaurant opposite the entry. Continue along I-50 to the tains, travel east along I-40 and, scenic cliffs where you can hike While you are down south, the coast and find the East Sea to subsequently, route 38 toward the coastal trail to visit other provincial forest of Chilgapsan be rough and wild, where the the mountain town that made us Legal beaches and the large sand dunes offers some great hiking and an mountains drop into the ocean fall in love with Korean moun- at Sinduri. astronomical observatory where and surfers find their waves. tains, even in slushy weather. Further south, near Gunsan, you can spot stars and constella- The beaches of the east coast are This is Taebaek; a cute old min- is the Byeonsanbando Na- tions on clear evenings. small and scenic, camp-able, and ing town nestled in a crescent tional Park and more beaches chilly. Be sure to bring a wetsuit shaped valley surrounded by like Gosapo to camp on. You THE NORTHEAST if you plan to surf. From here, it’s mountains and things to do. can even drive along the 33-km Branching out and heading a quick jaunt up to Seoraksan There are caves to visit, the Shopping seawall along the way! For inland northeast in Korea means instant National Park and beyond it best being Hwanseolgul, there adventures, an easy drive on I-1 mountains: Steep, tall, precipi- into the wilds of the north. are hikes to hike, like along the will get you to . The city tous and beautifully remote. If This is where people brave the Dakpoong valley, and there are has some great museums like the you follow I-50 eastward, you whitewater of the Naerincheon museums to see, as in the Tae- National Science Museum can visit the highlights of a well- River; ITT has a flawless trip baek Paleozoic Museum or Leisure Leisure and the Expo Park Exhibits, touristed area with easy access that is a blast! Further off the Coal Museum. In addition, this and the Yuesong Hot Springs via Seoul. This area can get very beaten track is the town of Hwa- is home to the 02 and High1 ski area on the west side of town crowded on weekends, especially cheon, which has quickly be- resorts! On the way east you where you can dip your feet in the during Korean holidays and in come a favorite of ours for nearby will pass picturesque Guinsa hot water at the roadside park, or the summer. camping, river activities, and a temple; a unique branch of

58 Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA Leisure ing ak Ko e re p a S n

Eating Out

Would you like something to drink? = Eum-ryo-su jom deu-ril-kka-yo?

What would you like to eat? = Eott-eon eum-shik-eul deu-shi-getss-eum-ni-kka?

May I have a cup of coffee? = Coffee han-jan ju-se-yo?

I’ll have this. = Eeguh jooseyo.

Not too spicy, please. = Neo-mu maep-ge ha-ji ma-ra ju-se-yo.

Thanks for the meal. (Before eating) The view from the road to Taebaek = Jal-mueok-get-seum-ni-da.

Looks great. = Mash-it-getss-eum-ni-da.

Korean Buddhism crafted this sion. Choosing to go south along It’s very delicious! = Neo-mu mat-itss-eum-ni-da! temple built along the edges of I-45 can get you to the UNESCO a steep valley. World Heritage site at It doesn’t taste good. = Mat-eopss-eup-ni-da. If scenery is what you are af- Temple; the Tripitaka Kore- ter, though, a ride on Korea’s O- ana, a full copy of Buddhist texts It’s on me. = Je-ga sal-kke-yo. train can’t be missed. Take two carved onto wooden printing Thanks for the meal. (After eating) days and ride through the tiny blocks in the 1200s, is contained = Jal-mueok-geot s-seum-ni-da. mountain towns, along old curvy within this complex. tracks, and through tunnels ga- Not far from Haeinsa is the old lore. Stop and hike straight from Gaya capital; during the Three • Beef = So-go-gi (소고기) the train in any of the tiny vil- Kingdoms Period of Korean his- • Beef ribs = So-gal-bi (소갈비) lages, including Taebaek, stay at tory, a tiny fourth kingdom made • Boneless rib pieces = So-gal-bi-sal (소갈비살) a minbak and hop back on the its unique stamp on this central • Sirloin cut for grilling = Doong-shim (등심) train the next day. part of the country. The larg- • Pork = Dwe-ji-go-gi (돼지 고기) It makes a loop from Jecheon est funeral mounds, and one left • Pork ribs = Dwe-ji-gal-bi (돼지갈비) with an access link from Seoul open and excavated, are found • Side pork = Sam-gyop-sal (삼겹살) and Pyeongtaek. It can be at the Daegaya Museum. It is • Chicken = Dalk-go-gi (닭고기) booked, with a bit of difficulty, fascinating to learn about, and • Fried chicken from the English web- picturesque to hike around, the = Dalk-dwi-gim or “chicken fry” (닭 튀김) F site (www.letskorail.com); have ancient tombs. • Rice = bab (밥) a Korean friend help or call the For camping and outdoors, • Fried Rice = Bok-kum-bab (볶음밥) Korail number for phone book- the eastern side of Jirisan Na- • Chicken fried rice ing (1599-7777). For a faster way tional Park has trail access and = Dalk-go-gi-bok-kum-bab (닭고기볶음밥) to travel, try the Jeongseon a wonderful campground called • Shrimp fried rice = Se-u-bok-kum-bab (새우 볶음밥) ZipRider at Arii Hills resort Somakgol near a creek to play. It • Seasoned rice & vegetables = Bi-bim-bab (비빔밥) (the O-train stops here, too). This is so colorful in the fall. Continu- • Noodles = Myeon (면) zipline goes 60 mph and 3,900 ing your southerly drive will drop • Ramen = Ra-myeon (라면) feet! you into Goseong county – dino- saur country they call it – and the SOUTHEAST very informative and entertain- Going southeast along I-1 can ing Sangjokam County Park get you to the other major city and Dinosaur Museum. in Korea: Busan. But there is so much more, with a little diver- Continued on page 60

Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA 59 Continued from page 59 sea but still has some steep mountains. Head- cave system and the Manjanggul cave, the ing south along I-25 can get you to the Juk- mini-crater at Seongsan, peak bagging at Here is where you can, quite literally, walk nokwang Bamboo Forest in the small Hallasan, orange groves, waterfalls and in the dinosaur footprints along the edge of town of Damyang. the unique southern cliff pillars along the the sea cliffs or even camp out along the shore. This grove of bamboo has numerous trails, coast. It’s a dino dream! A bit further east along the a playground, and even a small traditional vil- There is even a walking trail around the seashore is the port town of Tongyeong, lage and is well worth a stopover. Even fur- entire island if you have that kind of time. where you can board one of the famous Ko- ther south is Wolchulsan National Park, (www.jejuolle.org) It is essential to have a car rean turtle boats and ride a ferry out to the a mountain oasis, where you can actually here, but cheap rentals can be found online Culture & Language island of Hansando where you can explore backpack into a campground. It’s only 500 to book at the airport. Not so easy as Jeju is (by car) the islands, stay in a minbak along a meters from the parking lot, but the Gyeong- Ulleungdo (pronounced woo-loong-doh). pebble beach, and learn about Admiral Yi the po campground feels remote without the This island far out in the East Sea, is another famous Korean naval innovator. excessive tents found in typical Korean camp- volcanic sight to behold and a beauty of na- ing. ture; unlike Jeju, Ulleungdo does not have the Cell phones BUSAN & BEYOND Not far from here is Dehean Green Tea mark of tourism on it. From this south area, it’s a straight shot Plantation, where the tea bushes are lined Instead of hundreds of overdone attrac- along route 2 to Busan. This alternate to row after row up the steep hillsides. You can tions, you will find an incredible coastal trail Seoul is known for its beach and the nightlife walk along the trails up and down the hills perched along the edge of the island’s cliffs in that area. Haeundae Beach is pretty, and even visit a small bamboo grove. The and a central valley surrounded by the ancient uniquely smack-dab in the city, and has a drive along route 18 south from the tourist volcano’s crater. Getting there is a challenge Education great park along the western edge; sum- plantation is quite scenic with other hills cov- as you need to take a long ferry ride from the mertime it is insanely wall-to-wall crowded. ered in green tea rows. port at Mukho just north of Donghae town. There are better beaches in this country, so Further west you will be approaching You need to book ahead of time, so call the what else is in Busan? Jindo island, famous for its special breed of Daea Ferry Lines (033) 531-5891 via the KTO Well, a walk along the old city wall at Mt. dogs. But along the way, be sure to stop at the 1330 helpline. Once on Ulleungdo, the bus Geumseong is certainly worthwhile for the Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil Site. This is the system is easy to navigate but most sites and Transportation views, and a visit to the Haedong Yong- best fossil site and dinosaur museum Korea the trailhead are right in the port town. There gungsa seaside temple is interesting. My has to offer, with gigantic fossilized footprints are lots of minbak available, so booking ahead favorite thing in Busan, however, was the im- preserved in situ under climate-controlled isn’t necessary or possible. Just go! mense Hurshimchung sauna with its themed buildings. There is also a sculpture park, big pools, relaxing rooms and cave swimming. If playground, huge and high tech museum, and MUST-DO EXPERIENCES you visit only one Korean sauna, this could be gardens with a very large lotus pond. There are many things in Korea that have

Private vehicles it! This place is a dino lover’s dream. From no location, but truly give you the Korean The associated jjimjilbang is, however, Jindo or Mokpo or Wando, you can board experience. Here is a list of things you must small and easily outdone by others. Busan is ferries of all kinds to the southern islands that do, and they can really be done anywhere on just another big city, so head north for some make up the Dadohaehaesang Nation- any excursion – from just outside the gate, to culture! Near Ulsan there are ancient Korean al Park. It is the largest park in Korea and Seoul, to the farthest reaches of the islands.

Online petroglyphs in the Daegok Valley if you find spans the vast seaside, islands and marine Don’t stay on base! that as fascinating as I do. Korean cavemen area on the southwestern coast of the country. • Stay in a minbak and a love motel. carved these fish and whales into the rock You must ferry to an island to truly appreciate They are so very different, but require the thousands of years ago and you can still walk and experience the park, and my suggestion is same skills at booking on the spot. A min- up and see them today! a trek out to Gwanmae-do. bak is a room in someone’s home, while a A super museum makes a good introduc- Leave the car at the dock, pack up camping love motel is a super-themed motel that Legal tion before driving out on country roads to supplies on a cart or backpack, and take the will have all the essentials for a ‘sponta- the sights. Back north along I-1 is the cul- 2 ½-hour ride ferry as it hops into ports on neous’ visit. I’ve taken my whole family to ture capital of Korea: Gyeongju. Here is other islands along the way. On Gwanmaedo, both; preview rooms and be wary of TV where you will find a one-stop town for an- you can camp in the pines along the large channels in love motels. cient Korea with and old fortress, cute town beach to the left of the port, explore tide pools • Go to a sauna and jjimjilbang. The center, royal tombs from the Silla Kingdom, and cliff caves, wander the tiny roads through gender-segregated sauna’s range in fanci- and a formal garden. You could spend a full the village and hike trails along cliff edges to ness from small local bathhouses to gigan- Shopping day wandering the ancient sites in this pretty beaches unused. This is relaxation and a Ko- tic super trendy spa’s. A jjimjilbang is an UNESCO heritage town. Visit the museum on rea rarely seen! additional coed area, often affiliated with a the way in to know what you are looking at! sauna, where you relax in different themed KOREAN ISLANDS rooms in a shorts and shirt uniform. Relax- SOUTHWEST There are tons of other islands in Korea; ation to the maximum is a family event! Leisure Leisure Venturing to the southwestern portion of most famously, Jeju, and it is worth the visit! • Buy food at the market. Whether pro- the Korean peninsula nearly brings you back Jeju island has a whole other feel to it than duce grown by a little old lady squatting on in time, and certainly takes you to places mainland Korea, and while there are kitschy the ground or live fish from a tank, there rarely visited by western tourists. This area is attractions out the wazoo, there are also some is nothing more Korean than getting super mostly flat farmland tilting westward into the legitimate sites to see. There is a lava tube fresh in-season food. Even better: buy it READ MORE FROM KAT AT:

60 Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA Leisure

from a roaming blue truck! • Eat Korean food. Cook your own “bulgo- gi” or “galbi,” have some regional cuisine

like “dolsat bibimbap,” and come to love all Culture & Language the hundreds of kimchi. • Stop at a highway rest stop. Experi- ence the incredible service. These places have cafeterias, clean toilets, gas stations, shops of all kinds, coffee shops, and of- ten massage chairs and kids playgrounds. They are rest stops of the future. Cell phones • Space-A off the ROK for a break. Ha- waii, Japan and even Singapore are reason- able destinations. • Do something outdoors! This country is insane with mountains and the activities

are often considered upper-class as those Education folks have spare time. Get out and ski, rock climb, hike, raft, camp, or ice climb. • Get involved locally with the PIEF (Pyeongtaek International Exchange Foun- dation). Take classes, join a talk group, go on the free tour and Transportation encourage your child to attend the Korean- American Summer School for amazing memories. www.pief.or.kr • Go to a cat or dog café. This is Asia at its quirkiest. There are a couple in Myeong- dong in Seoul and a cat café across from the Private vehicles train station in Pyeongtaek. • Join a temple stay. Try either of these a day visit at the Jogyesa in Seoul or a week- end retreat at one of the numerous moun- tain temples in Korea. eng.templestay.com • Have clothes custom made. This is the place! For reasonable cost, the vendors in Online Itaewon and along Songtan shopping road can create a special mess dress shirt, entire suit, or evening gown. It will fit like a glove. • Join a meetup group in Seoul for fun. Get to know some people outside the military base bubble and find some new ac- Legal tivities at the same time. www.meetup.com Jeju Island • Go to a festival. My favorite by far is the Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul. The Hwa- cheon Ice Fishing festival or Boryeong Mud

Fest are fun regional events, while the US- Shopping ROK Friendship Festival in Songtan is an absolute must-do just outside the gate. For a crazy time, New Year’s Eve in Seoul is wild! My family is now moving from Korea, and I’m sad to see it go. This place is a wonderful Leisure Leisure assignment. Enjoy all this little country has to offer; get off base and don’t let the time go by too quickly. Pilsung!

READ MORE FROM KAT AT: Jeju Island RAMBLINGFAMILY.COM Welcome to Pacific 2015-16 KOREA 61