A Culinary Journey with the Masters Volume 2 | Issue 6 | `300
OUTLOOK 2020 Emerging from a vibrant food scene in 2019, what are the culinary trends that more Chefs will be inspired to experiment with, adopt or take forward well into 2020? „ I ONLY ACCEPT MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE! Editor’s Note
Dear food aficionados, students of culinary and fellow Chefs from across the world. We bring you the twelfth issue of Cuisine Digest magazine for Chefs in the New Year 2020!
What a year it has been – full of creativity on the Chef’s plates reaching new heights with their consciousness regarding the diner’s taste explorations, their wellness, as well as the health of the planet. Towards the end of the year, we saw the Chef community converge at New Delhi for the 8th IFCA International Chefs Conference. With a 1,000 Chefs and culinary students in attendance, this largest congregation of professionals from the food and hospitality in India was centred on, ‘Eat Right. Power a Healthy Planet.’ The participating Chefs took a pledge to use trans fat free fats/oils in their recipes and work towards trans fat elimination from the diets of Indian population by adopting the slogan ‘Chefs for Trans Fat Free.’
As UN Sustainable Development Goals enter into the ‘Decade of Action’ – the 2020s, we discussed some actionable points with UN SDG2 Coordinator, Paul Newnham who on his visit to India, met up and discussed the Chefs’ Manifesto with food industry professionals from across the spectrum. Cuisine Digest is proud to their partner, encouraging Chefs on the Zero Hunger initiative and other SDGs. 2020 is also the year of a megaevent - the biennial Worldchefs’ conference, at St. Petersburg, Russia in July.
The change of the year occasions a change in preferences – also when it comes to tastes. What will 2020 hold for the diners, according to the people behind the food? Let us explore some fresh thoughts on food, as we talk to Chefs to get views on what will make it to the diners’ plates in the coming months.
Enjoying a very inviting Mediterranean climate for much of its area, coupled with picturesque locales, My focus is on the guest. I do everything Croatia is a country blessed with a variety of foods from its geographically diverse regions. Chef Stevo for that, and I expect maximum performance Karapandža tells us why it is also famous for its “good food and wine!” The food of the eastern Indian from my equipment. The MKN FlexiCombi state of Bihar has evolved over centuries under the influence of various cultures and won‘t let me down. Its performance inspires regimes and is said to be one of the simplest and healthiest of cuisines. In restaurant story, we meet young entrepreneurs aho are making Indian cuisine accessible through me every time anew. And so I inspire my guests. their Washington DC-based RASA – a fast-casual joint, and well on their way to expansion. It is strange to think that most of the world was unaware of the widely-used corn until just 500 years ago! We find out more about it in our ingredient section. In MKN FlexiCombi beverages, we explore non-alcoholic fare, and get a sugar high from festive cakes.
Performance redefi ned. Shutterstock Photo: Take a look at what is creating a buzz in the culinary world. Hope to get your comments and suggestions.
Culinary Regards,
Chef Sudhir Sibal Editor
MKN contact in India: Mohua Das #mychoice Business Development Manager South Asia WWW.MKN.COM Phone: +91.98731.33200 | Email: [email protected] Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 03 Our Culinary Masters
Dr CHEF MANJIT GILL CHEF SUDHIR SIBAL Culinary Director, Cuisine Digest Editor, Cuisine Digest Chef Gill is the President of the Chef Sibal is the former Vice Indian Federation of Culinary President (Hotels) of India Tourism
Electrolux Professional SkyLine Professional Electrolux Associations (IFCA), the umbrella Development Corporation (ITDC) body for all the Chefs’ associations with three decades of experience as in India. Internationally, he is the a Chef. He is the Ambassador, World Chairman of the Worldchefs’ Cultural Heritage Committee Chefs Without Borders (WCWB), has represented India at with over 100 countries as its members. Chef’s recipes the exclusive gastronomic world club of Chefs to the Head and food philosophy are regularly featured in Indian and of States – Le Club des Chefs des Chefs (CCC) and is a global news media. WACS-approved culinary judge.
CHEF THOMAS A GUGLER GILLES BRAGARD CHEF CHRISTOPHER KOETKE President, Founder- CEO, Worldchefs Secretary, Le Complete (WACS) Club des Chefs Culinary LLC With hundreds des Chefs (CCC) An Executive of international French food Chef and a honours as couturier and culinary educator, a Master Chef, this globetrotting entrepreneur – who over a chat with certified by American Culinary dynamic culinary master does world-famous Master Chef Paul Federation (ACF), Koetke comes with numerous TV Shows, writes Bocuse – had founded in 1977, the 37 years of experience. Awarded Chef cookbooks, conducts Master Classes elite club of Chefs to the heads of of the Year for 1996-97 by the Chicago globally and is invited to judge states of countries, Le Club des Chefs Chapter of the International Wine and The smartest ally culinary contests internationally. des Chefs, brings his experience to Food Society and Cooking Teacher of Fluently conversant in 9 languages, Cuisine Digest. Serving as the CCC the Year by the International Association Chef Gugler leads the Worldchefs Secretary, he promotes culinary of Culinary Professionals (IACP), among in your kitchen (WACS) as its President. diplomacy at the international level. others.
Ergonomics and usability champions. Ensure record- Dr CHEF SOUNDARAJAN SANDEEP ARORA breaking savings and exceptional General Indian Whisky Secretary, Indian Expert cooking results. Born from over Federation Leading whisky 40 years of experience in high of Culinary connoisseur performance combi Ovens. Associations in India, Arora (IFCA) has introduced Electrolux SkyLine PremiumS A versatile Chef heading the the nation to premium and rare Kitchens of Mahindra Holidays and whiskies from around the globe. Ovens, the path to culinary Resorts India Ltd, India as their Director at Spiritual Luxury Living, excellence. Corporate Executive Chef, Dr Chef this well-travelled spirit-promoter Soundararajan dons multiple hats – has exclusive whisky experiences as Chairman of the WACS’ Marketing to share – pairing whisky with Committee, Founder General food – and is the ‘Exclusive Indian Secretary of IFCA, and also the Representative’ of the world’s most- Experience the Excellence Founder of the South India Culinary read whisky journal – the Whisky professional.electrolux.com.sg Association (SICA). Magazine UK. email: [email protected] phone: +91 124 472 2800 Shutterstock Photo: Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 05 Volume 2 | Issue 6
Bi-Monthly Magazine Published By White Plate Network LLP
EDITOR Chef Sudhir Sibal
CULINARY DIRECTOR Dr Chef Manjit Gill
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Urvashi Sibal
MARKETING HEAD Reetika Gill
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Peali Dutta Gupta ART DIRECTOR Shamik Kundu www.pealidezine.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Kapil Mohan Urvashi Sibal
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS international Chef Thomas A Gugler, Dr Chef Werner Asbenger, Chef Stevo Karapandža, Paul Newnham (Chefs’ Manifesto), and Rahul Vinod & Sahil Rahman (RASA – Washington DC)
indian Chef Nandita Karan, Chef Subhayan Das (Poppins Hotal – Gurugram), Anil Bhandari
recipes Dr Chef Werner Asbenger, Chef Stevo Karapandža, Chef Prasun Mondal (Byg Brewski – Bengaluru), Chef Nandita Karan, Chef Subhayan Das
Cover Photo: Shutterstock
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DISCLAIMER: The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various contributors to this publication as well as the recipes do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Cuisine Digest and we do not hold responsibility for the outcome of the recipes shared here.
© Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. On the Menu
CULINARY MEDICINE Food Medicine? | 28 How food, eating, and cooking relate with health and wellness, interests many today, reveals Dr Werner Absenger, a Chef COVER STORY REGIONAL CUISINE who teaches culinary medicine COLUMNS Forecast 2020: Chefs Predict the Plate | 10 Litti Chokha… And More! | 40 VANTAGE POINT Stepping out of last year’s food scene, Cuisine Digest envisages Regional cuisine offerings from the eastern Indian state of Bihar BEVERAGES Chef Thomas Gugler some culinary trends that Chefs will be inspired to experiment with, can capture the imagination of diners seeking unchartered | predicts actions of Chefs Skipping Alcohol? 60 adopt or take forward well into 2020. Popular Chefs give their take territories of unique tastes and flavours from the subcontinent, Going easy on your drinks by – will they veer towards on the likely food chartbusters for the coming year says Chef Nandita Karan giving alcohol a miss - is a trend the past or embrace the finding many serious takers the future in 2020? | 18 GLOBETROTTER RESTAURANT JOURNEY world over, reveals hospitality CHEF MUSINGS Flavours from Croatia | 20 RASA The Young Turks of Fast | 50 legend Anil Bhandari Changing seasons give a With tastes influenced by the Mediterranean, Italian and A switch from the corporate world to the restaurant business has cue to reconnect food with Slavic, Croatian food lures the tourist with an inimitable been sweetly rewarding for entrepreneurs Rahul Vinod and nature’s cycle for taste culinary personality, shares Chef Stevo Karapandža Sahil Rahman. Making Indian cuisine accessible through REGULARS and health. Why not start their Washington DC-based RASA – a fast-casual joint, and right away? | 26 INGREDIENT well on their way to expansion, they share their restaurant CULINARY NEWS | journey of RASA Upcoming and recent CHEF RELATIONS A-maize-ing Corn 34 culinary events from India The humble, lowly corn served humanity in more A dish prepared with all FESTIVE FOODS and across the globe | 64 ways than one could ever imagine – from being your heart - that doesn’t a staple food to being a major source of biofuel, Holiday Bakes | 56 CHEF CALENDAR make it right to the table, - and yet it was not known to humanity over 500 Be it the traditional French cake Bûche de Noël, or the The dates for global food would spoil the experience years ago! Find out about this ingredient with plum pudding (with no plums!), the holiday season is a events that a professional for any guest! | 48 Urvashi Sibal pâtissière’s reason to celebrate, says Chef Subhayan Das Chef must be aware of | 66
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Chartbusters
Chefs2020 Predict the Plate
Stepping out of last year’s food scene, Cuisine Digest envisages some culinary trends that Chefs will be inspired to experiment with, adopt or take forward well into 2020
ith the dawn of the New Year, almost everyone is inspired to make a spirited fresh beginning! Some make Wresolutions of self-improvement, while others plan to strike off items from long overdue bucket lists. And then there are Chefs, for whom, the world revolves literally around food – what’s in, what’s out, and what is here to stay! Illumined on this by leading culinary names, we share Outlook 2020 on trends that they feel will be gaining momentum, or losing weight in the diners’ minds and Chefs’ menus in the coming months. Photo: Shutterstock Photo:
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IN TUNE WITH NATURE Chefs across the board foresee plant-based cuisines gaining the diner’s attention on the plate. This is something that will also warrant more Chefs to get creative with geographically and topographically available flora on the inventory, and subsequently on the menu and the plate.
No wonder, on top of this list of ‘trending foods’ qualifiers lie all things that Mother Nature endows us with. “We will be back to the use of natural products,” says Chef Thomas Gugler, President of Worldchefs (World Association of Chefs Societies), adding, “it will be the food that is cooked as per our grandparents and great- grandparents’ times with the right attention to seasons and what mother earth is providing us at the right times of ripeness.”
Through this statement Chef Gugler alludes to
many aspects of the emerging world food trends Shutterstock Photos: which resonate with the views of prominent Chefs. Firstly, he talks of the resurgence of Chef Saby notes, “Vegetarian, regions. In fact, India had discovered that in order Further, it is not exactly good-bye to non-veg nature’s produce on the menu – something vegan, plant-based – is something to keep in harmony with nature, it is important to despite the “plant-based” craze in 2020, as the that several others have also predicted in parts encourage plant-based foods, reveals Chef Manjit butchers and meat brands may be experimenting to reflect diners’ perceptions evolving towards that we have always been Gill, President, Indian Federation of Culinary but “are not going vegetarian!” The Whole Foods’ plant-based foods. Expect more veggies on the practicing in India, and now the Associations (IFCA). “That is why, in India, meat survey finds that flexitarians looking to strike plate as well as a rising trend in the first world world is taking it up as a trend!” is only 20 to 25 per cent of the total meal as a tasty balance between meats and plants can towards plant-based alternatives to meat, reflected on the plate – the Indian Thali. expect more blended products in their future. propelling vegetarian and vegan choices. Chefs across USA have been on board with the their dishes from the vegan options, predicts Through its culinary heritage, it offers to the trend for years through James Beard Foundation’s Vegetarian, Vegan Chef Nishant Choubey, Corporate Chef of world a well-documented vegetarian repository ‘The Blended Burger Project’, a movement that Menu options will include more of vegetarian as the Japan-based Seinan Group. He says that of recipes. “Nobody understands plant-based strives to make the iconic burger better for well as vegan choices – something that many exclusively vegetarian restaurant are going to foods like we do!” says Chef Gill, making a case customers and for the planet by blending in at least accomplished Indian Chefs also believe ranks be in fashion in the days ahead, predicting that for the Indian Chefs to come up with ways of 25 per cent fresh mushrooms, as per Whole Foods. high among the food trends of 2020. alternates of milk or dairy products as offered in how to be creative with “plant-based food coconut milk or almond milk or soy which is tasty!” CONNECTIVE TECHNOLOGY “Vegetarian, vegan, plant-based, is something would be trending as part of it. Our future is set to be urban, claims a PwC report, that we have always been practicing in India, The coming months would also see citing that 90 per cent of the urban population and now the world is taking it up as a trend,” Fake it or Make it? “the trendiest brands slowing down growth is set to take place in African and Asian according to award-winning restaurant So, should it be a on soy, which has traditionally countries with rapid urbanisation. In view of this, consultant and President of Young Chefs direction towards dominated the plant-based protein challenges as well as opportunities abound for Association of India - Chef Sabyasachi Gorai alternatives being space,” according to a survey by cities, especially in these two continents. (Saby). “Going away from anything that contains offered to meat- Whole Foods Market (USA). What animal protein is probably going to be a big lovers? In India, we then, if not soy? The replacements, they Ordering in? game changer in 2020, along with food that are are blessed with diverse predict, are likely to be innovative blends Taking stock of the current ‘eating out’ options, less processed.” cuisines working (like grains and mung beans) one can’t ignore the rising trend of ‘ordering largely with vegetables to mimic the creamy textures in.’ Facilitated by smartphones, faster internet, Diners will tend towards no-meat, plant-based found across its of yogurts and other dairy cashless payment options and with greater meals, preferring vegetarian fare, or selecting topographically unique products. access to a large number of users thereby,
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aggregators are increasing their footprint in the food ordering space.
By 2020, there will be seven times as many connected devices on the planet as people, according to Cisco. In view of this technology surge, it is not surprising that we have so rapidly moved into food delivery mode supported by online aggregators and the emergence of new trends like cloud kitchens. Giving a peek into which food searches were accelerating in popularity on Uber Eats, it claims to have uncovered a few key trends rising to the top “from collagen to squid ink to the highly ‘grammable starfruit.”
Last year’s orders with Uber Eats reveal a high ranking for salads and soups. This report claims that if you stacked all the heads of lettuce from
the salads delivered in 2019, it would be the Shutterstock Photos: height of 893 Burj Khalifas. And where did these favourite food orders get delivered to? Landmark scenario of online food where “anything works” are going to attract the diners in the coming year, Chef Manjit Gill insists, “Indian locations like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Golden for delivered food. Looks like a space to watch according to Chef Thomas Gugler. Chefs from India Chefs must come up with ways Gate Park in San Francisco, Parliament House in out for. couldn’t agree more. “Regional and seasonal food of how to be creative with plant- Australia, and the CN Tower in Toronto. is my pick,” reveals Chef Patron and Author, Chef GOING BACK TO YOUR ROOTS Michael Swamy, supporting the regional food trend. based food which is tasty. Nobody Gourmet Delivery Food Continuing with the world trends, Chef Saby understands it like we do!” Moreover, in today’s world, where consumers are vouches for “going back to the roots” as a sure Taking it a step further, Chef Manish Mehrotra spoilt for choice already, it is spurred further by vouches adding the obvious, “If you would still predicts that regional food “which has been the online options of dining at home with online like to call it a trend!” Explaining this, he says, “As trending for the longest period of time” will come be exploring climate conscious options in their orders. They now demand more out of their every classical or authentic recipe is almost like up with more and more people cooking their kitchens, but also be expected to come out favourite food outlets. Chefs gauge a nuanced a scientific formulation, so various chefs around community food. “There is so much of talent in transparently to diners on these. evolution of this trend with gourmet food. the world will make the effort to go back and India, and people should know about it,” he adds, rediscover their roots and find recipes from their which is something he feels should be celebrated. In several ways, the culinary trends of 2020 Counted amongst the top names past, and bring them back to the modern More home cooks will come into the limelight, would centre on health and well-being of in the profession for his culinary plate to help people eat healthy, eat according to him. individuals, coupled with an increasing concern prowess and with numerus well.” Referring to the heritage of the for the planet. “To know where your ingredients accolades under his belt, Chef food that countries like India and many The regional food trend is supported further are coming from, to be one with nature – which Manish Mehrotra of Indian nations of the world offer, Chef Saby by Chef Anand Panwar, Executive Chef, The means understanding your food, your grocery Accent puts gourmet food says, “We know that these recipes Roseate, who feels “the food scene will witness provisions, and perishables,” is according to Chef in delivery as high on the have survived for thousands of years the cuisines broken into minor regions, as Chefs Saby the next trend in food. “Consumers would trend list. He says 2020 will within various cuisines of the world, will start offering hyper regional cuisines.” be more conscious of everything that we eat or witness the rise of gourmet helping us gain nourishment and According to him, people will be looking for ‘Maa put in our body.” delivery food all over the keep us away from illness and ke haath ka khana’ or cuisine that comes close to world. According to him, various other issues the world home food at restaurants in 2020. Transparency, Tighter Norms soon it will be Chefs is currently facing.” "People will continue to embrace open-concept who will preparing BEHIND THE SCENES designs that show guests how they're preparing prepare the food for Regional Rediscovery If you haven’t already noticed the aware and food," says Chef Gugler, adding, "More and more, ‘gourmet deliveries’ The food from areas demanding customer who wants to know where people want to feel like they're a part of the as opposed to the which were not well- the food comes from, and what it costs the experience, not just tucked away having their food current makeshift known until today environment, be prepared. Chefs will not only magically brought to them."
14 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 15 cover story
In keeping with this trend of consumer awareness cooking medium on key facets and demand for food safety and hygiene, one of our lives,” and this should expects more transparency from brands, producers inspire more consumers in and Chefs. Regulators such as the Food Safety 2020 to choose desi ghee and Standards Authority of India or FSSAI in India and cold pressed local seed have already been setting the norms for reduced oils, traditionally used by our salt and sugar consumption, limiting the use of ancestors over other options. trans fats and other food safety regulations. Pawan Agarwal, CEO of FSSAI, urges Chefs to take the Millets and Teff lead in implementing and promoting these through Probably, more and more of these so-called
their profession: “Chefs play a very important role unknown, non-commercial ingredients are Shutterstock Photo: in reformulating recipes that are both tasty and going to find their way into our meals, and into Chef Manish Mehrotra thinks it is healthy by reducing salt, sugar, fats and completely our restaurants, according to Saby. After chia time to bid a good bye to activated eliminate fats/oils with industrial trans-fat.” and quinoa, it is the turn of teff. This fine grain, charcoal and avocado toast! He nearly the size of a poppy seed, is an ancient DOWN WITH THE GIMMICKS grain staple to Ethiopia and Eritrea. Touted as the insists that 2020 will see more of Let us Get ‘Real’ new superfood, this drought-resistant rice has ‘real food,’ minus the gimmicks Chef Manish Mehrotra insists that 2020 will see been researched for use in India by the Mysuru- more of ‘real food,’ minus the gimmicks. Chef Gill based Central Food and Technological Research predicts it as a year for “Good Food” – food which Institute (CFTRI). concept) where the progressive bar will be is not just good for the human being and for the clubbed with the food and every individual will get environment, but also retains the goodness of Resurfacing on the commercial front, millets have bite-size food with variety. Among ingredients, traditional local practices. already “regained” popularity as a way towards he pitches for the black garlic, which he thinks a nutritious diet. A recent study posted by the will be used extensively in recipes like black garlic Well, the world scenario has always been slightly University of Delaware “offers India a pathway marinated chicken, black garlic bread, black different from the Indian food scene, reflects to improve nutrition, climate resilience and the garlic toasts, etc. Chef Saby. “People the world over have gone environment by diversifying its crop production. away from gimmicky, so-called molecular And it also offers global insights into the need to FLAVOURS OF THE PACIFIC RIM gastronomy, and other additives that make food consider sustainable approaches to agriculture.” Inspired by Asia, Oceania and the Western coasts look attractive or dramatic, and things like that.” of the Americas, vibrant tropical fruits like guava But, somehow in India, he says, we have seen an ON THE PLATE OR OFF IT? and dragon fruit are making their way into colourful upsurge of this in smaller towns where it seems Chefs will most likely be turning their back to smoothie bowls and cocktails, points Chef Gugler. there is an interest among newer diners looking some overdone dishes or ingredients, taking a for a unique experience, a trend which he calls “a break from certain cuisines, and some styles of ACTIONS WILL SPEAK bit unfortunate.” cooking. Chef Manish Mehrotra thinks it is time to “I think 2020 is the year that will definitely bid a good bye to activated charcoal and avocado separate the ones who talk from the ones who do With talk of eating local, seasonal, regional on for toast! Trends that diners are likely to move away real work with food,” says Chef Saby. As Chefs the past few years now, Chef Saby sees 2020 as from, according to Chef Michael Swamy, include have begun to understand food better than in the the year to take this forward; “We are going to fast food, oily food, fish and meat, packaged past, and diners are very conscious about what increase the base for locally produced seasonal foods, and fusion and molecular. we put in the body. He says that people will now vegetables, fruits and other sources that are closely watch who is doing the right things on the provided by nature like fish and sea food eaten Echoing the same, Chef Gugler reflects on the plate, and putting the right things in the mouth, seasonally.” He also foresees a trend to explore closing down of a substantial number of the beyond the social media talk and not exactly the ‘Lesser Known’ grains. renowned fast food stores globally, and loss of practicing the same. market share. He calls it a trend towards people Not just grains, even fats, are trending towards getting ready for more healthy and tasty foods Worldchefs President, Chef Gugler concludes, the “return to traditional,” according to the Godrej without additives, due to heightened awareness. “Dine well, healthy and happy, as this will Food Trends Report 2020 released at the Tasting guarantee you a good lifestyle, and your aging India Symposium. The report finds “growing According to Chef Nishant Choubey, this year process will slow down as you are respecting and
Photo: Shutterstock Photo: appreciation for the significance of our choice of will see the trend of the tapas bar (small plate valuing your body’s needs.” ●
16 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 17 vantage point Looking Ahead: A Chef’s Year This New Year, Chef Thomas Gugler predicts actions and choices of Chefs The countries where the monster industry has not been stopped the world over – will they veer towards the past or embrace the future? yet, can call them as the luck winners. Surely, the profitability and zero spread products will not be achieved ear friends and Chef colleagues from around the world, I take the out of 100 percent and opportunity and pleasure to write my thoughts with regard to polished, waxed, injected prime
DForecast 2020 for trends, ingredients and menu choices for the products are not there but the Shutterstock Photo: coming year. There is a very clear trend of moving towards flavours and natural aspect and the health the basics, as the Chef’s world has been misled for several years through factors are the winners. beautiful presentation but not taking into consideration the taste of food. Coming back to the directions for 2020 must be defiantly “Zero Hunger Having attended many of the best competitions globally over the years, I & Zero Waste”. In June 2020, we as Worldchefs will initiate the “WCWB have seen more and more of this trend coming to the fore, and therefore (World Chefs Without Border)” campaign in Cambodia at Reap Siem it was my personal desire to build and create the “Worldchefs Cultural where all interested Chefs from the world over can be part of this charity- Heritage Committee” which concentrated on these elements: Natural driven activity. Please read more about this noble and valuable event to products, cooked as per our grandparents and great-grandparents’ times help to fight poverty and calamities globally in the Worldchefs’ magazine with the right attention to seasons and what mother earth is providing us as well as on the Worldchefs’ website. at the right times of ripeness. THOMAS A GUGLER Innovation will never stop as long we as Chefs are open-minded and keep Renowned Master Chef and President, Worldchefs For the last few months, it has become clearly visible that many are going travelling the world with open eyes. Teamwork is the element for success into vegan food and it is one of the booming trends exploding worldwide. in cooking as there are so many different segments in the kitchens that Many companies are going into innovation food. Lately, I have seen have to be combined, and as we all know, one hand cannot clap. Wishing innovation awards that have health aspects based on nature combined that we as professional Chefs are setting proper global trends for a long with the food preparation and production – becoming very essential for and healthy cooking direction, starting with the food habit education of future developments and creations. Natural proteins to strengthen the our children in giving them the opportunity for a long and healthy, happy immune system and as well collagens added to food have started to play life as we had it when we were kids and young. a role in the upper-class food-loving scene. Asian light foods Industrialization is needed but the most important thing is the attention Asian light foods are becoming more and more popular, as well as the to details in our daily menu and diet. Well balancing the raw materials, are gaining food from areas which were not well-known until today, are trends in with proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins and all the important parameters in popularity, creating the kind of mystery cooking scene. All over, the key elements will help achieve these goals. now-a-days are good, healthy raw materials away from the “Discounter” along with the direction and as they are being called “superfoods”. Lastly, I had the pleasure of traveling with Chef Manjit Gill to Uzbekistan food from areas where we enjoyed yummy, healthy and simple food – a special which were not For the past generations, this natural cooking without pesticides experience with lots of emotions, culture and great hospitality. This great was a key for a long and healthy life. Today, no one can be Chefs’ family touring the world makes us learn, to understand others, well-known until sure about what he or she is eating if the chain of origin other cultures, and their food habits. today, as well and tracking/tracing records are not there. The rules and regulations for livestock like in the USA, Canada and Japan Chefs from all around the world travel, explore, try, taste and become as a new trend are super strict so it is obvious where the direction is going the big masters of the future. Wishing you all great cooking, learning in creating a to go. Every kind of food finally will be monitored more and experiencing the melting pot of the global cuisine on the plate. Best and more by the industry to assure and to achieve the culinary regards and greetings to all the international readers and the kind of mystery complexity and the state of quality. entire board of IFCA, hoping that you all will enjoy this column. ● cooking scene
18 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 19 globetrotter Photo: Shutterstock Photo:
popular summer destination for The culturally-rich country has several travellers coming from elsewhere sites that find themselves on UNESCO’s ADRIATIC GEMS Ain Europe or from across the world, World Heritage List – like the ancient city Croatia is a small country in the eastern of Dubrovnik, and the historic area of Split part of the continent with medieval that houses ruins of the palace of the Roman cities and historic ruins. Located emperor Diocletian. As an aside, the immensely across the Adriatic Sea from popular HBO series Game of Thrones used Italy, it has a population of 4.6 Dubrovnik as a filming location, representing Flavours million. Its capital city is Zagreb. the cities of King's Landing and Qarth. Spectacular tourist attractions among its bounties include the Enjoying a very inviting Mediterranean climate Plitvice Lakes, the spectacular for much of its area, coupled with picturesque from Croatia Adriatic coastlines with locales, Croatia is blessed with a variety of With tastes influenced by the Mediterranean, Italian and Dubrovnik nicknamed foods from its geographically diverse regions. In the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ fact, it is famous for its “good food and wine!” Slavic, Croatian gastronomy lures the tourist with an inimitable (referred to as such by British Croatian cuisine is greatly influenced by Turkish, poet Lord Byron) and over a central European, and Italian cuisine. Typical culinary personality, shares Chef Stevo Karapandža 1000 stunning islands. dishes are cabbage leaves stuffed with minced
20 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 21 globetrotter BAKED STRUKLI SERVES 4-6 Ingredients Filling Pastry • 1 kg dry cottage cheese • 500 gms sifted flour • 100 gms butter • 1 egg • 4 eggs • 2 tbs of sunflower oil • 100 ml sour/sweet cream • 2 gms salt • Little salt • 200 gms sweet cream Method • Make a firm dough from the flour, 1 egg, oil and a little salted lukewarm water. • Knead until the bubbles begin to form, than shape the dough into ball. • Coat the surface with oil so it doesn’t begin to dry out. • Cover with a warm dish towel and let stand about 15 minutes • Meanwhile make a filling. • Mix the cheese with cream, 4 eggs, add salt and 80 g of melted butter. • Blend well until the mixture is completely smooth. • Sprinkle flour on the table and roll out the dough to the thickness of fine paper. • Spread the cheese filling over the dough and carefully roll it up. • Cut the roll crosswise with the rim of plate into Photos: Shutterstock Photos: 20 pieces. The immensely popular HBO • Boil in boiling water. meat, cevapcici (rolls of seasoned grilled meat), is made all along the coast with olive oil, garlic, • Grease a cast iron frying pan with oil, arrange the boiled dumplings, and pickles. series Game of Thrones used parsley, bread crumbs and wine. Depending on Cheese Strukli in it. Dubrovnik as a filming location, whether we wish the buzara to be white or red, we • Pour the rest of melted butter and sweet cream. Along the coast, fish is served withblitva , a add tomatoes. • Put into preheated oven and bake for 20-30 minutes on dish of Swiss chard mixed with potatoes and representing the cities of King's 180-200°C until golden brown. crushed garlic in olive oil. There are also local Landing and Qarth Croatians tend to be very traditional in delicacies, such as cheese from the island of Pag preparing pasta, for example noodles with and wine from any number of good-quality small truffles, in which if you wish to bring out the producers, particularly in Dalmatia. Talking of The Mediterranean gives fish and fruits of the aroma of this magic mushrooms, and you Damlatia, Croatia is the home of world popular sea, vineyards and wine, olives and olive oil, fresh can add a few drops of truffle oil and add a dog breed called Dalmatians. and dried grapes and fruits, boiled or grilled meat smaller quantity of fresh truffles. Talking of of sheep and goats. this epicurean delight, Croatia is home to the Other nuggets about Croatia include: Croatia world’s biggest truffle – the gourmet fungus invented the necktie; Morske Orgulje – the If you visit the Mediterranean part, do not pass enjoyed in pasta, risotto, omelettes, etc. world’s first pipe organ that is played by the sea’s through without tasting Dalmatian and Istrian Giancarlo Zigante, along with his dog Diana, rhythmic waves is located on the shores of Zadar. prosciutto (dried in the north wind bura), lamb found the world’s largest truffle in Istria in Zadar – the seaside town – also has the best backed under a peka, octopus salad, and of 1999. It weighed 1.31 kilos and went into the sunset in the world, as per Alfred Hitchcock! course scampi and shells are a delicacy, no Guinness Book of World Records! matter how they are prepared. As for the taste and aromas of Croatian Cuisine Continental cuisine is influenced by the seasons – it is very diversified and exciting because of Peka is one of the most popular meals in of the year and by more complicated preparation. the differences between the Croatian regions. Croatia’s Dalmatia region. The ispod cripnje or During the winter are prepared high calorie meals The cuisine can be divided into several distinct peke is a domed iron lid or ‘bell’ used to cover with beans, potatoes, pickled cabbage and cured one – that of Istria, Dalmatia, Dubrovnik, Lika, a casserole pot, which is then buried under smoked pork. Sarma are cabbage rolls filled with Gorski Kotar, Zagorje, Medimurje, Podravina, glowing embers to create a slow-cooking micro- meat and rice. Poultry is a favourite throughout and Slavonija – each with its specific cooking oven. It used to cook lamb or octopus, along the entire region – roasted turkey, geese and traditions, characteristic of the area. These need with potatoes and other vegetables, sprinkled ducks - served with mlinci or dough from flour not necessarily be well known in other parts of with wine and olive oil. and lukewarm salted water, which are baked in Croatia. Most dishes, however, can be found all pieces separately over a hot grid in the oven or on across the country, with local variants. Buzara (scampi or shellfish), an original dish country home hot stove plates.
22 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 23 globetrotter
ROLLED TURKEY BREAST Ingredients OCTOPUS SALAD • 4 Turkey Breasts • 172 Bunch of Fresh Basil Ingredients • 150 gms Pesto (Basil) • Salt • 1 Octopus/1 Kg • 5 gms Pickled Capers • 3 tsp of Olive Oil • Pepper • 1 dl Olive Oil • ½ Green or Red Peppers • 1.5 dl Chicken Soup • 0.5 dl Wine Vinegar • ½ Bunch of Parsley • 2 Cloves garlic • Salt Method • 1 Onion • Pepper • Prepare four scallops, beat a little with a pounder, spread pesto and a few leaves of fresh basil over Method FISH BRODETTO them. Roll up the scallops and fix with toothpicks. • Wash the octopus, place it in a saucepan of cold water Cover with a little bit of flour and fry in warm oil on
Ingredients Shutterstock Photos: and cook until tender. Cut it into pieces. all sides. Add chicken soup and cook around 10-12 • 1.5 kg various sea fish and • 1 dl Red Wine or Red • Add chopped onion and finely minced garlic, small minutes until the meat is tender. Take the scallops shells – Red Scorpion fish, Vinegar dices of peppers and pickled capers, salt and pepper. out of pan and place them on a plate. Serve with Conger Eel, Bonito, Scampi, • 2 Garlic Cloves • Pour olive oil and vinegar and mix well and set aside fresh mixed salad and garlic bread. Pesto can be a Mussels • 1 Bay Leaf to cool. Sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley. During homemade product – with basil, pine nuts, garlic, • 1 dl Olive Oil • 1 Celery Rod strawberry season, I like to garnish salad with nice parmesan cheese, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you
• 200 gms Tomato Passata- • ½ Bunch of Parsley Shutterstock Photo: slices of this adorable fruit. like red pesto, add some dried tomatoes. Peeled Tomatoes • Salt • Salad made from octopus is usual hors d’oeuvres in • 50 gms Tomato Puree • Pepper fish restaurants everywhere, not only by the seaside. • 2 Onions The largest Adriatic octopus can grow up to one metre in length and weigh as much as 15 kg. The Method Morske Orgulje, the world’s first in oven. With reference to cheese, Croatian people living on islands (there are more than 1,000) • Clean the fish and cut it into large pieces. Heat the olive oil cheese or sir as it is called, has some popular knew how to prepare many delicacies from octopus pipe organ played by the sea’s and sauté chopped onion and garlic until glassy. Add wine varieties that include the Paški sir – the famous dried in the sun or roasted under “pekas” (over an or vinegar, salt and boiled up. Add prepared fish, tomato, rhythmic waves is found in Zadar, a sheep's milk cheese from the Pag island. open fire) with potatoes. The octopus that has just celery and bay leaf, and continue cooking until the fish town with the world’s best sunset, been caught and taken out of the sea, after cleaning is tender. Do not stir brodetto while cooking only shake and freezing will be more tender. the saucepan occasionally. Add some water or clear fish as per filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock! It seems that the first cookery book devoted to • The best taste to salad is given by a good native olive soup and season with more salt and peper. Sprinkle with Croatian cuisine was printed in 1815. oil. Beside Istria (gourmet paradise for a high-quality chopped parsley. Polenta is the best side dish. Tip: You can extra virgin olive oil), Dalmatia is the other main olive- first roll each piece of fish in flour, fry briefly in hot oil on Influences of the Greek and Roman cuisine, as well I have chosen to present Štrukli, because of producing region. The olives came to Dalmatia from both sides, and then add to tomato sauce. as of the later Mediterranean cuisine, especially their being universal and very tasty and are a ancient Greece after the Ancient Greeks sailed into • Brodetto (fish soup) by continentals described as what is today Stari Grad on island Hvar in 384 BC. “buzara”(dish made from shellfish) does not thicken due Italian (especially Venetian) are visible in the coastal favourite dish in modern Croatian cuisine. They Today it belongs to UNESCO World Heritage. One has to bread crumbs but due to onion. It may be prepared regions – which use olive oil, herbs (rosemary, are prepared from drawn dough, filled with fresh to visit the most curios and majestic olive groves of in many ways and variety of fish and vegetables can sage, bay leaf, oregano, marjoram, cinnamon, cottage cheese and rolled. They may be savoury Lun on island Pag – more than 1,000 olive trees over be used to make a brodetto. Arround the Neretva river clove, nutmeg, etc). Peasant cooking traditions or sweet, boiled and baked, gratinated, served in 1,000 years old. Although the most olive oil makers where the fresh river water and sea water mix you can are based on imaginative variations of several soups, or as hors-d`oeuvres, as main dish or an are small producers, in recent years they have been get famous eel brodetto also with frog legs added to eel. basic ingredients such as cereals, dairy, meat, fish, independent snack. On festive occasions, they collecting a growing number of international awards. (if desired). Istrian olive oil has fruity green notes and peppery • Simple “buzara” is made all long the Adriatic coast vegetables and nuts, while the cooking techniques can be served with wild game or some other meat effect in the throat because of high polyphenol – without any onion but with olive oil, garlic, parsley, are stewing, grilling, roasting, baking. On the other with sauce. And as dessert, you can serve cooked content, healthy antioxidants. bread crumbs and wine. If you wish buzara to be red you hand, the elite cuisine involves more complicated strukli poured over with in oil briefly fried white add tomatoes. The most popular is scampi buzara. The procedures and use of selected herbs and spices. bread crumbs and sprinkled with sugar. scampi from Adriatic sea are the most highly favoured, especially if caught in the waters of north part of the sea. Charcuterie is an integral elebemt of Croatian Štrukli are a very popular speciality, prepared It is said that scampi are the tastiest crustaceans whose rosy and almost transparent flesh is tender and soft. culinary traditions all across its various regions. with some twenty different types of fillings Depending on size (individual is at its top weight of Game and mushrooms are popular ingredients in like green vegetables, Swiss chard or spinach, 300gms) ,scampi can be fried, grilled, baked, this cuisine. Fresh-water fish prepared in one pot in pumpkin or poppy seed, buckwheat or millet, boiled, mixed into risotto or prepared with the open as fish paprika stew or fisherman dishes depending on region. It is served in households pasta. Clean scampi tails wrapped in are very tasty. The culinary milieu finds influences across Hrvatsko Zagorje and Zagreb regions. ● prosciutto and threaded onto from other former Yugoslav countries as well. skewers and grilled – it’s a very tasty and delicious dish. Moving towards the sweet taste, Croatia has Chef Stefan Stevo Karapandža scrumptious desserts like the walnut and poppy- Popular celebrity chef in Croatia, WACS Culinary Judge B, Ambassador of SKMER seed roll, strudels and popular Croatian pancakes with cheese filling, covered with cream and baked
Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 25 chef musings
The next season in line is spring or Vasanta ritu. Follow the Calendar! VASANTA RITU Extending from mid-March to mid-May or Chaitra and Of the many reasons to eat more of seasonal food grown locally, Vaishakha, is the spring season. Flowers bloom. New reconnecting with nature’s cycle for taste and health is the best. leaves line the branches. Why not start right away? As Ayurvedic seasonal routine is to align The Shishira being with the dynamic rhythm of the natural ritu is a good he science of Ayurveda recommends that one follows the world, the Vasanta ritu supports cleansing of principles of seasonal eating in guiding our food choices to the body. Mother nature moves in a fluid and time to build on Tmaintain health and wellness. In choosing the locally grown organic way and spring is a season of transition, so a bodily strength, seasonal produce over others, we also give an impetus to food springtime routine is not intended to be rigid or static. production of the same, and in turn, promote food sustainability. increase the Your local spring climate may, at first, fluctuate between colder, drier, body stamina, In continuing with the seasons as per Ayurveda, we now look at Shishira more isolating wintery weather, and warmer, wetter conditions— and Vasanta ritus. meaning that any given day could aggravate kapha, vata or both. and to boost immunity as well SHISHIRA RITU If we continue partaking of the heavy food of the winter, it is difficult to – through the The period extending from mid-January to mid-March, known as assimilate. This then ama – toxin starts accumulating. In spring, as the Shishira, is the season of winter dew. It falls during Magha and Phalgun. sun is warming the toxin starts melting and clogs the microcirculation right diet Shishira ritu heralds the beginning of Aadaan Kaal or Uttarayana – which channels. is the northern solstice. Aadaan means to take away, hence, this is a period of dehydration. During this season, the ambient climate is cool Detoxifying during spring is an important part of the diet. Otherwise one with cold winds blowing. The weather is characterised by severe cold loses taste sensations and is prone to flu, cold, cough or allergies. This is and further increase of dryness. the best time to detox as nature is already trying to clear out the toxins.
MANJIT GILL The main taste during this season is tikta, which is bitter, and the key The taste during this season is Kashaya or astringent, and earth and Culinary Director, Cuisine Digest; element is ether. During this season, physical strength of the body is at air are the elements. Agni, the digestive fire starts moving to a lower President, IFCA; and President, Worldchefs Cultural Heritage the maximum and agni or metabolism is high, a decrease in kapha dosha state. The season is characterised by lower strength in the body than Committee occurs, while vata dosha tends to aggravate. Occasional rainfall and the winter dew or Shishira ritu. Madhura or the sweet taste, amla or the strong winds are common in this season. sour taste, and lavana or the salty taste must be reduced to keep the digestive system efficient in removing the toxins from the body. During Shishira ritu, it is time to build on bodily strength and increase the body stamina. It is a good occasion to start working on building What to Eat during Vasanta? immunity as well. All of this has to be done by selecting the right things One should take easily digestible foods. Among cereals, old to eat. barley, wheat and rice. Split pulses, lentils like moong, masoor, moth, and others can be taken. Food items tasting tikta or bitter, What to Eat during Shishira? katu or pungent, and kashaya or astringent are to be taken. Besides Foods with madhura or sweet, amla or sour and lavana or salty as the these, honey, radish with leaves with more spices and herbs such as predominant taste are preferred. Bitter and excessive pungent food coriander, cumin, turmeric and fennel, are to be included in the diet. should be avoided. Cereals and pulses, wheat or gram flour products, Meats like that of Shahsa (rabbit), which are easy to digest can be taken. new rice, corn, and others, are advised. Ginger, garlic, Haritaki - fruits Sparingly continue with vegetables still in season such as cauliflower of Terminalia chebula, Pippali - fruits of Piper longum called long with tender leaves and stalks, carrots. pepper, sugarcane products such as gur or jaggery, as well as milk and milk products are to be included in the diet. Foods which are hard to digest are to be avoided. Those which are sheeta (cold), snigdha (viscous), guru (heavy), Foods having katu or pungent, tikta or bitter, kashaya or amla (sour), madhura (sweet) are not preferred. New astringent tastes are to be avoided along with foods that grains, curd, cold drinks, and so on, are also prohibited in have cold effect on the body. this diet. ● Photos: Shutterstock Photos: 26 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 food medicine
ith enjoyment, I read the contributions of Rishi Agarwal, and Chef Manjit Gill Win Cuisine Digest, Vol. 2, Issue 5. The authors remind us to approach menus with an attitude of Ayurveda. Even though I am based Culinary Medicine in the U.S., the topic resonates. Agarwal writes that Ayurveda is an ancient life science that Combining the Science of Medicine with the Art of Cooking. How emphasizes food and nutrition to promote food, eating, and cooking relate with personal health and wellness, health and wellbeing. Ayurvedic practitioners share health and interventional strategies. interests many today, reveals Dr Werner Absenger, a Chef who Those approaches combine a health promotion foundation that embraces bio-psycho-socio- teaches culinary medicine spiritual approaches and traditions.
In the U.S., there is revived interest and excitement about the relationship between food, eating, and cooking to personal health and wellness. The American College of Lifestyle Medicine’s definition of lifestyle medicine reads: Evidence indicates nutrition interventions reduce Lifestyle Medicine is the use of evidence-based lifestyle therapeutic approaches, such as a plant- morbidity and mortality, predominant dietary lifestyle, regular physical yet malnutrition, including activity, adequate sleep, stress management, avoiding use of risky substances and pursuing obesity, remains widespread other non-drug modalities to treat, reverse and prevent chronic disease. of those employees are physicians and advanced WHAT ARE HEALTHCARE CHALLENGES IN practice providers. They operate 14 hospitals and THE UNITED STATES? 220 ambulatory sites in West Michigan. Poor nutrition adds to the development of most chronic diseases. Obesity is a continuing Guiding the transition at Spectrum Health are epidemic that needs immediate and undivided doctors Leanne Mauriello, Ph.D., and Kristi attention. In 1997, a survey of 19 U.S. hospitals Artz, MD, DipABLM, CCMS. Dr. Mauriello is a concluded that more than $1,000 per patient health psychologist, behavioral scientist, and could be saved, including higher-quality nutrition director for Behavioral Science and Lifestyle care. Even though the evidence indicates that Management. Dr. Kristi Artz, MD, DipABLM, is nutrition interventions reduce morbidity and a board-certified emergency room physician, mortality, malnutrition, including obesity, remains certified in culinary medicine and plant-based widespread. As far as graduate medical education nutrition. Dr. Artz is the Medical Director of is affected, nutrition education and training Lifestyle Medicine and MedNow and the lead seem to be ineffectual. Seventy-one percent of physician for the Culinary Medicine program. medical schools in the U.S. fail to implement the recommended 25 hours of nutrition education. TRANSFORMING HEALTHCARE WITH Thirty-six percent of programs offer less than half CULINARY MEDICINE: THE GRAND RAPIDS of that. MODEL Spectrum Health licenses a curriculum developed Spectrum Health, a health system ($6.5 billion) by Timothy Harlan, MD, FACP, CCMS at Tulane based in Grand Rapids, Michigan, is committing University School of Medicine’s Goldring Center to transform healthcare in our community. for Culinary Medicine. To tweak and implement Spectrum Health has 31,000 employees; 4,200 the curriculum, Spectrum Health examined Photo: Shutterstock Photo: 28 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 29 culinary medicine
Tulane University’s Goldring Center for Culinary • Breakfast bread pudding with mixed berry Medicine and original recipes created by our fruit sauce. experts in culinary medicine. • Mediterranean couscous with raisins and pine nuts. We tailor the content of each class to the • Baked white fish with chimichurri sauce. residency program’s requirements. The internal medicine program focus is on cardiovascular The recipes we developed and used aim to be disease (fats in the diet), diabetes mellitus inexpensive and easy to prepare. The goal is that (carbohydrates in the diet), and focus on chronic practically anyone can recreate the meals at pain (anti-inflammatory properties of foods). home. The images and recipes supplementing this article are from the family medicine We developed original content for the residency class. cardiovascular fellow program. In those kitchen lab classes, we highlight whole-food, plant- In addition to residency programming, Spectrum based recipes, and nutrition research focusing Health offers culinary medicine community classes on disease reversal, metabolic health, and heart for the public and continuing education classes for disease prevention. physicians. Spectrum Health also received funding through the Michigan Health Endowment Fund The curriculum for family medicine residents Nutrition and Healthy Lifestyle grants, which are encompasses condition-focused topics such crucial to the growth of the program. as chronic heart failure, nutrition in pregnancy, sports nutrition, and food and neurocognition. HOW ARE CULINARY MEDICINE CLASSES Before sitting down to pen this article, we STRUCTURED? facilitated a food and neurocognition hands- Each residency class starts with a brief on cooking class for Spectrum Health’s family presentation or a case study. The case study Through hands-on cooking this academic year, potentially reaching 200 medicine residents. The recipes for this class helps confine the activities in the hands- classes, we teach skills for residents/fellows, exposing the healthcare were: on cooking class. Then we move into the professionals to 60+ hours of hands-on culinary • Black bean quesadilla and fresh tomato salsa. kitchen where the chef will give a short skill fixing meals with nutritional and nutrition education. • Spinach, berry, and Parmesan salad. demonstration. health benefits toward disease WHAT IS CULINARY MEDICINE? prevention or management Culinary medicine is a new evidence-based field in medicine. Culinary medicine blends the art of SPINACH, BERRY AND PARMESAN SALAD cooking with the science of medicine. The aim Ingredients FOR SALAD partnerships with local experts in culinary is to educate about the powerful connections FOR VINAIGRETTE • Put greens in large bowl. education. Spectrum Health collaborates food has on health and disease. Through hands- • ½ cup olive oil FOR SALAD • Top with berries, Parmesan, and walnuts. with Grand Rapids Community College’s on cooking classes, we teach skills for fixing • ¼ cup red wine vinegar • 4 cups baby spinach • Right before serving, toss with cup of the • 1 tbs dijon mustard • 1 pint blueberries; or Secchia Institute for Culinary Education and, meals with nutritional health benefits toward red wine vinaigrette. • 1 tbs honey other seasonal berries • Divide among six plates and enjoy. for additional teaching kitchen facilities, the preventing, managing, and reversing chronic • 1 tsp garlic powder • ¼ cup Parmesan Downtown Market. disease. • ½ tsp thyme; dried cheese; shaved • ½ tsp oregano; dried • 2 tbs walnuts; chopped Spectrum Health’s culinary medicine program Currently, Grand Rapids Community College • ½ tsp kosher salt • 1/3 cup red wine launched in the fall of 2017. The goal? Offer helps support the Spectrum Health residency • ¼ tsp black pepper vinaigrette a two-week elective for residents in internal program through America's Promise grant. medicine and pediatrics. In just two years, over Method FOR DRESSING 80 residents and fellows have been trained in In a kitchen lab, a physician or dietitian trained • In a small container with a lid (such as a jar), culinary medicine. Spectrum Health’s culinary in culinary medicine and a chef, assisted by combine all ingredients. Shake well to combine. medicine program is now required curricula for Secchia Institute's culinary students and • Refrigerate and use as needed. Shake well before family medicine residents, cardiology fellows, Spectrum Health volunteers, facilitate hands-on each use. internal medicine residents, and pediatric cooking classes. For the Grand Rapids model, residents. Twenty classes are planned for we use a combination of recipes licensed from
30 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 31 culinary medicine
We prepare ahead, setting most of the BREAKFAST BREAD PUDDING ingredients on the stations. In our culinary labs, Ingredients we usually have four different cooking stations. • 6 slices whole wheat • 2 large eggs We ask residents to self-select, putting two to bread; stale or toasted • 1 tbs ground flaxseed four residents at each station. The entire class • 1 each banana; chopped • 3 tbs water prepares eight to 10 recipes. The lead physician • 1 each apple; chopped • ½ cup plain, unsweetened and chef, assisted by culinary students and • ½ tsp cinnamon; ground almond milk • ¼ cup raisins; or other • 1 tsp vanilla extract volunteers, move around to help residents. dried fruit • 1 tsp maple syrup • ¼ cup walnuts Once the meals are cooked and ready to serve, • ¼ tsp kosher salt the plating window opens. Residents plate “show-plates,” highlighting one single portion of Method each meal prepared. During this segment of the • Preheat oven to 350°. • In a small bowl, mix together the ground flaxseed and culinary medicine class, the enthusiasm in the lab the water, set aside and allow to thicken. turns into an iron chef competition, notably for • Cut or rip the whole wheat bread into bite-sized pieces cardiovascular fellows. In a unique competitive and place in a large mixing bowl. spirit, each group hustles to surpass the other • Add the chopped banana, apple, cinnamon, orange zest, group. Once the show plate is finished, the raisins, walnuts and salt to the bread and set aside. residents portion the remaining food on platters, • In a separate bowl scramble the eggs, mix in the flaxseed mixture, milk, vanilla and maple syrup, pour the to be served as a family-style meal. mixture over the bread and fruit. Toss to coat. • Pour the mixture into lightly greased muffin tins As residents savor the meals they helped create, (it should make about 12 full-size muffins) and bake for each group has an opportunity to describe 15 minutes, or until the center is no longer runny. their dish. The focus is on the health problem considered at the beginning of class through the presentation or the case study. From start to email correspondence with Anne Pugliese, We have a responsibility to create and finish, each class lasts approximately three hours. Residency Program Coordinator for Spectrum participate in unique opportunities for culinary Health's Family Medicine Residency Program, and continued education. Becoming involved The feedback the culinary medicine team Anne provided the following information. “Our in collaborations such as culinary medicine gets is predominately positive. In a recent residents sincerely LOVE coming to their Culinary hones our leadership and management Classes with you and your team! It is truly skills. It allows us to tirelessly sharpen our something they look forward to every quarter.” capabilities in the craft, art, and science of BAKED WHITE FISH cooking and nutrition. As we engage in such The impact on the health system is quite notable, activities, we play an active role in helping to Ingredients as well. Residents who participate in culinary solve some of our most pressing health and • 3 pounds white fish • ¼ cup fresh lime juice • 2 tbs olive oil • ¼ cup chopped fresh medicine programming demand that at meetings environmental problems. • 1 ½ tsp chili powder cilantro they attend, the health system ditches the • 1 tsp Kosher salt doughnuts for healthier, plant-based options, As Timothy S. Harlan, MD (trained chef turned • ½ tsp black pepper bringing about systematic change from within. internist) of Tulane University Medical School The “Taste of Lifestyle Medicine” microgrant puts it, “Diet, nutrition, and medicine address Method funds some of those activities. problems that face not only physicians but • Preheat oven to 400°. • Portion fish into 4 ounce portions. also chefs. When you bring together chefs • Coat fish on each side with olive oil, chili powder, salt HOW DOES CULINARY MEDICINE MAKE and medical professionals with the goal of and pepper. Place fish on a parchment or foil lined CHEFS AGENTS OF CHANGE? solving health problems ‘... then people think baking tray. Chef Sabyasachi Gorai's cover story in a recent differently about food, diet, and nutrition, and • Bake fish in the oven until internal temperature of fish issue of Cuisine Digest titled "Mission Possible? that is the goal!’” ● reaches 145°, about 10 to 15 minutes (depending on Climate Action by Chefs" goes to the core of the the thickness of the fish). Do not overcook fish as it will become dry. obligations the modern chef faces. We need to be • Remove fish from the oven, and top with lime juice and knowledgeable about how food relates to climate cilantro before serving. change. We need to prepare nutritious food that Werner Absenger Ph.D., MS is accessible and affordable to all.
32 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 33 ingredient
uring my school and college days, I would look forward to the autumn season, A-maize-ing because that was the time every year Dwhen street vendors would start selling ‘bhutta’, the Hindi term for roasted corn on the The humble, lowly corn served cob. I and my friends would wait impatiently humanity in more ways than one as the ‘bhaiyya’ (means brother, a term used could ever imagine – from being a to address any street vendor) phlegmatically roasted several freshly de-husked cobs of corn Corn staple food to being a major source on coal embers that were spread on a piece of of biofuel, muses Urvashi Sibal rectangular tin sheet, slowly fanning them with a palm leaf fan. The whole process was like a temple ritual, something you could neither speed up nor walk away from. But when the vendor finally handed over the hot cob, with the stalk Surpassing wheat and rice, wrapped in the green husk as a handle to hold on to, and we would sink our teeth into the tenderly it is the world’s most widely roasted kernels smeared with lime juice and salt, cultivated cereal crop today. Yet, it was pure heaven worth all the waiting. most of the world was unaware During those salad days, I thought that that was of corn until just 500 years ago! the only reason why corn was cultivated – for selling roasted corn cobs. Little did I know that the humble, lowly corn served humanity in more HISTORY ways than I could ever have imagined – from Scholars have determined that maize was first being a staple food to being a major source of cultivated nearly 7,000 years ago by the native biofuel. Please read on and be a“maize”d (sorry, peoples of south-central Mexico. From there, the couldn’t resist repeating that pun). practice of maize cultivation spread along the Andes to Chile, Peru and other highland regions MAIZE OR CORN – WHICH IS CORRECT? 4,000 years ago. Later it spread to the Carribean In the field of agriculture, corn can refer to any islands and Cuba, and also to the North American cereal such as wheat, sorghum, millet and so native tribes. on, though for most laymen corn means maize. Therefore, to avoid confusion, in the rest of the Historians surmise that it was introduced into article we will be mostly using the term maize to Europe and the middle-east after Columbus refer to this crop. The botanical name of maize is discovered the American continent in the 15th Zea mays. It belongs to the grass family, to which century AD. It is not clear when maize reached the wheat, rice, sorghum, and all the other common shores of India. Some scholars think that it was cereals eaten by man also belong. brought by the Portuguese in the 16th century, while others think that it reached India earlier, CORN COB – A SINGLE FRUIT OR A BUNCH? either through direct trade with South America, or Though the cob appears to be a single fruit, it through the Islamic invaders in the 12th century. is actually the pithy stalk on which hang many fruits. Each kernel of maize (the yellow seed), is It is strange to think that most of the world actually a complete fruit. But because the skin of was unaware of corn until just 500 years ago. fruit is tightly adhered to the seed, and there But within this short span, it has become the is no pulp, the fruit and seed are one and most widely cultivated cereal crop of the world, the same. So you can say that the cob is exceeding the production of even wheat and rice, the stalk on which nearly 600 maize fruit which humanity has been cultivating for more grow and ripen as kernels. than 5,000 years. Photos: Shutterstock Photos:
34 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 35 ingredient
The original maize cultivated in Mexico was quite yellow, or white in colour and are very pretty to look article. Suffice it to say different from the maize that we are familiar at. No wonder they are used for decoration and that every part of with today. The original maize plant was very ornamentation in addition to being used as a cereal. the plant is used small (25-30 cms high), and produced only one • Sweet Corn – this is another variety which in some way or small cob per plant that was just one inch long. has gained popularity in the last few decades. the other, and the The modern day maize grows to a height of 6-8 Its kernels have more sugar content and less kernels are used not only feet and produces many cobs per plant, each starch, and therefore are sweet to taste. They by man as a staple cereal, cob being 6-8 inches long. Historians say that are also very tender, and can be eaten raw. The but also as livestock this transformation was achieved by the native kernels can be grated and added to any salad or feed and feed for Mexicans by crossing the original maize with can be steamed and eaten. Sweet corn is also biofuel. Here are some another local plant called teosinte, and then by steamed along with the cob and eaten. of the main uses: For diabetes selective breeding. • As a Staple Cereal: In and weight WORLD PRODUCTION large parts of central and VARIETIES Maize is the most widely cultivated crop in the South America, corn flour is loss, popcorn is There are several varieties of maize. The most world. The total production in 2017 was 1.13 billion the staple cereal. Tamales, nachos, burritos, recommended as popular ones are: tonnes, of which USA contributed nearly 33 percent tortillas, hominy, and grits are all prepared • Flour Corn – used mainly for manufacturing and China 23 percent. Brazil, Argentina and India from corn kernels that have been treated with a snack between corn starch and flour are the other countries which follow China distantly. alkali. Because maize does not have much meals. Low in
• Dent Corn – it is so named because the India produced 28 million tonnes of maize in 2017. gluten, untreated corn flour (called corn meal) Shutterstock Photo: kernels have a dent on their crown. It is rich in cannot be made into a dough. But when the calorie and high in starch and is used as cattle feed, and also for Interestingly, only 2.5 percent of the total maize kernel is soaked in lye (alkaline solution) and fibre, it appeases the hunger making hominy and grits (processed corn used produced in the USA is consumed as cereal. Most cooked, its hard shell gets partially softened. as cereal) of it is used as livestock feed, for production of high After the cooked seed is dried, it can be • Popcorn – the most well-known and popular fructose corn syrup (HFCS), and for producing the finely ground to make a flour called masa low saturated fat content, and high PUFA and corn known to all. The kernels have a hard shell biofuel ethanol that is mixed with petrol and used nixtamalera, which can then be made into a MUFA content. It has been shown to reduce but a tender centre with more water content, as a fuel for cars. dough. This process is called nixtamalization, cholesterol levels and thus protect the heart. which causes it to pop when heated. and was discovered by the natives of Mexico • As High Fructose Corn Syrup (HFCS): In • Flint corn – the kernels are multi-coloured and MAIZE AND ITS “CORN”UCOPIA OF USES several thousand years ago. This masa can the USA, a large portion of the annual maize hard. They are commonly cultivated in Central and Maize is used in so many ways that to list them then be used to make tortillas, nachos, burritos production is used to manufacture HFCS. HFCS South America. The kernels can be purple, blue, all would be beyond the scope of this brief and so on. In Mexico and other South American is a sweetening agent commonly used in all the countries, masa is mixed with milk and water carbonated drinks and other sweet drinks. and eaten as a thick gruel for breakfast, called • As a Source of Biofuel: Maize kernel is fermented MAKAI QUINOA KI TIKKI atole. Sometimes chocolate and anise are also to produce ethanol, which is combined with Ingredients Method added to make the gruel more appealing. petrol and used as fuel by cars. This is a more • Take a kadai and add desi ghee, ginger, garlic, fenugreek • 180 gms Marinated • 30 gms Tandoor Salad • As Livestock Feed: untreated cornmeal is used environmental-friendly fuel than 100% petrol. Makai and Quinoa • 5 gms Chaat Masala leaves, coriander roots, green chilli, sweet corn, turmeric as chickenfeed and cattlefeed. • Miscellaneous Uses: corn starch is used to • 20 gms Mint Chutney • 20 gms Mango dip powder and sauté. • 10 gms Lemon Wedge • 2 gms Chopped • Add roasted Jeera powder, black salt and salt to taste to • As Green Fodder for Cattle: sometimes maize manufacture glue, inks, pharmaceutical tablets, • 8 gms Green Chilli coriander the mixture and mince it twice. Add roasted chaana powder, is cultivated not for the kernel but as green and cosmetics such as face powder. Every year boiled quinoa and let it rest. fodder for cattle. Because it grows fast and new uses are being found for maize. • Take 30 gms of the mixture and make it into tikkis. Cook it abundantly, it proves to be a very cost-effective • As Fuel: in many villages, people use the dried on the tawa. fodder. When used in this way, the entire plant cobs as cooking fuel. There are special stoves • Serve it with chopped coriander, green chilli, mint chutney, is harvested and chopped into fodder before that are designed to make use of these cobs. mango dip and laccha salad. the cobs harden. This way, the entire plant is consumed by the cattle. Chefs can innovate with the wellness-laden corn • As Silage: the entire maize plant is chopped on the modern Indian plate, says Pawan R Kumar before the cobs harden and stored in silos or in of SupaCorn: “Modern Indian dishes could use plastic bags, to be used as fodder for cattle. corn as an ingredient in some gravies or curries: • Corn Oil: In recent years, corn oil, extracted corn palak is already quite popular, corn raita Chef Prsaun from the germ of the kernel, has become a can be served with roti or biriyani. Corn pulao is Mondal very popular cooking medium because of its another interesting option.”
36 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 37 ingredient
NUTRIENT VALUE OF MAIZE In addition to being a major source of carbohydrate, maize is moderately rich in protein and a good source of B Vitamins such as niacin (B3), pantothenic acid (B5), and thiamine (B6). It also provides sufficient fiber in the diet and thus may help overcome constipation and cure haemorrhoids. Yellow maize is also rich in beta- carotene, which gets converted into Vitamin A that is essential for healthy eyes. It is also a source of antioxidants such as lutein and anthrocyanin. Readers’ Feeback Most importantly, since it grows abundantly and At Cuisine Digest, we value your culinary ideas. tolerates a wide range of weather conditions, maize Do spare a moment to share your feedback with us. is a major source of staple cereal for many areas of the world where wheat and rice cannot grow, such How do you rate our content? as Africa. The calorie content of maize is high, and Enriching Tasteful Needs improvement it is therefore considered a fattening food. searching for an alternative to fossil fuels, and Remarks ______when it was found that low-cost ethanol could be ______However, for diabetics and those who want to produced from maize, it generated a world-wide lose weight, popcorn is recommended as a snack interest in exploring this possibility. In order to Do you like the images that go with our food between meals. It has low calorie content, but reduce toxic vehicle emissions, many countries, stories? high fibre content, thus filling your stomach and the USA being one of them, have now mandated Yes, attractive Okay Could be better appeasing the hunger. But this is true only if one that petrol should be mixed with 10% bio-ethanol. Remarks ______consumes plain, unbuttered, popcorn. India too, implemented this strategy in 2013. ______
HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP (HFCS) However, experience gathered over the last few Does our designing appeal to your senses? HFCS is an artificial sugar produced from corn years is raising serious doubts about the viability Has an international look In sync with the times syrup. Since its cost is much lower than cane of using bio-ethanol as a vehicle fuel. For one, Scope for improvement sugar, it became a very popular sugar alternative the availability of bio-ethanol depends upon, and Remarks ______used in carbonated drinks, desserts, fruit juices, fluctuates with, the annual crop production. Thus it ______and confectionery. However, medical research has is difficult to ensure a steady supply of bio-ethanol now shown that excessive, daily intake of HFCS is throughout the year. In addition, use of a cereal Do you want to see us more often? harmful, and can lead to obesity, diabetes, heart crop for fuel production is appearing to drive the Once a month Bi-monthly is good enough disease, fatty liver, and even cancer. food prices high, hitting the poor where it hurts Could try out quarterly most. Therefore, more and more environmentalists Remarks ______CORN ETHANOL and agriculture scientists are getting disenchanted ______Maize kernel, being rich in starch, with the idea of using a food crop for producing can be effectively used to produce bio-fuel. As of now, the jury is still out on this issue. Thoughts for us:______low-cost ethanol. The ______world has been long There you are, dear readers. I hope your journey ______through the maze of maize has left you with more ______respect and appreciation for this humble cereal,
Photos: Shutterstock Photos: which is feeding millions around the world and Your name: ______is proving to be more and more useful with each Email:______passing year. ● Profession: ______Phone Number: ______
Kindly email us your feedback or just scan and send Urvashi Sibal your feedback here: [email protected] Associate Editor, Cuisine Digest; Digital Media Strategist; Autobiography of a Yogi enthusiast Culinary regards, Team Cuisine Digest
38 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 regional cuisine
Litti Chokha… And More! Regional cuisine offerings from the eastern Indian state of Bihar – endowed with unique taste and flavours – can capture the imagination of diners, says Chef Nandita Karan Photo: Shutterstock Photo:
Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 41 regional cuisine
ndowed with a rich cultural heritage rooted Photos: Shutterstock Photos: in the ancient times, Bihar is the birthplace The Bihari khichdi is a broth of rice and of the Indian freedom movement, and lentils seasoned with cumin seeds, bay leaf, Ehome to innumerable intellectuals whose knowledge spread worldwide. The land of Buddha, dried red chillies and served with several Bihar derives its name from the word Vihara, accompanying items –curd, papad and pickle a Sanskrit word that means monastery. It is particularly apt considering it was the nurturing ground of religions like Buddhism, Jainism and The Bihari thali on every Saturday. Bihari khichdi is a broth of Hinduism. is incomplete rice and lentils seasoned with cumin seeds, bay without leaf, dried red chillies and served with several The cuisine of Bihar has evolved over centuries chutney accompanying items. In fact, explaining the under the influence of various cultures and and simple meal, there is a saying in Bihar for khichdi: regimes and said to be one of the simplest and chokha. “Khichdi ke chaar yaar: healthiest of cuisines. This fact reflects in its extensively Chokha Ghee, dahi, papad, achar” rich history, geography, economical status, and ingredients can be These four items ghee, curd, papad and pickle are culture of Bihar. such as prepared using the best accompaniments of khichdi. ingredients vegetables like Most people still think that the food of Bihar like sarson tel aloo, baingan, raw LITTI CHOKHA is just about Litti Chokha – a traditional dish (mustard oil), banana, arbi, suran, Coming back to litti chokha – one of the special comprising stuffed whole wheat dough balls (litti) hing (asafoetida), etc. Chokha is basically delicacies from Bihar which is famous everywhere served with a mashed relish of potato (chokha). panchphoran, tej boiled or sometime across India now-a-days; it has flavours which I would like to showcase hidden specialties patta (bay leaf), roasted vegetables mashed represent the unique earthiness of Bihar and it of Bihar, beyond this rustic dish, which is whole garam masala, sattu with raw mustard oil, onions, will keep you connected to the roots. undoubtedly indicative of the cuisine but not the (roasted gram flour with its skin), chuda (beaten chilli and coriander. There are end-all of our food repertoire. rice also known as poha), chana dal, makhana many different variants of chokha Famous for its rustic taste, litti is prepared with (lotus seed) and all seasonal vegetables. but it is the flavour of mustard oil whole wheat flour. These flour balls are stuffed Before diving deep into the cuisine of Bihar, an which is key to this fabulous tasting dish. with sattu which is a powder made with roasted introduction to its basic ingredients is a must. In Bihar, the most popular breakfast option is black chana, herbs and spices, and baked over Bihar’s food is simple and yet very delicious, with kachori which is a crisp puri with kalonji, aloo You can also find different varieties of chutney in coal or cow dung cakes. It is finally poured over inclusion of local vegetables and spices. The core ki subji and jalebi. You can easily spot in the the thali like tomato, ol (yam), pudina, dhaniya, with desi ghee. ingredient and condiment is mustard oil. mornings at every street corner. No gathering parwal, tissi (flex seed), aamda (Spondias or marriage breakfast is complete without this, cytherea), known commonly as ambarella or June This dish is a brilliant source of dietary fibre, Mustard oil is eastern India’s “olive oil.” It is not accompanied by hot milk. Another favourite plum is an equatorial or tropical tree, with edible vitamins, manganese and antioxidants. just used as a cooking medium but it also serves breakfast item is chura dahi with gur. fruit containing a fibrous pit. The sattu powder used to make litti has the purpose of salad oil, hair oil, face and body oil, amazing cooling properties and keeps baby massage oil and so on! Poha is soaked to make it soft and then mixed Further, the thali must not be found lacking of you energized throughout the day. with fresh dahi or yoghurt, and gur or jaggery. So papad and danauri. Papad is a thin, crisp, round ESSENTIALS OF THE BIHARI KITCHEN instead of cooking the poha, soak it first in water flatbread, while danauri are small homemade Talking of non-vegetarian fare, Ahuna What would you expect to find in the typical and then mix it with yoghurt and jaggery. Chura wadiya or drops of lentil paste dried in sunlight mutton is a specialty from the kitchen of a Bihari home? Bihari cuisine uses dahi is also consumed during festivals like Makar and kept in airtight containers. Champaran region of Bihar. This mutton Sakranti along with tilkut. preparation takes hours of cooking Known as much for their simplicity and over charcoal in sealed matkas or Bihar food is not just about THE LUNCH PLATTER hospitality, Biharis are generally self- earthen pots to even tenderise the Litti Chokha – a traditional dish The staple diet of Bihar is wheat and rice. A respecting people with well-developed bones. The unique swaad or taste normal day lunch thali or platter consists of dal, political instincts and cultural of this Ahuna mutton can be comprising stuffed whole wheat chawal, tarkari (vegetables with gravy), bhujia sensibilities. This cultural sensibility attributed to the pungency of dough balls (litti) served with a (thinly cut vegetables fried in mustard oil, jeera, can be seen in almost all homes as garlic pods and red-hot chillies mashed relish of potato (chokha) green chillies with salt and turmeric), bhaja (can they prepare and eat khichdi in this marinated mutton fat be of aloo, baingan, parwal, lauki etc). traditionally and religiously accompanied by ghee.
42 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 43 regional cuisine LITTI CHOKHA
Ingredients • Preheat gas oven at 180°C or you can use charcoal grill. For Chokha Now divide the dough into small roundles of 50-60 gms • 1 Brinjal • 1 sprig chopped coriander each. Flatten to the desired size and place a spoonful of Makhana or lotus seeds are the popular Talking of sweets, Bihar offers a whole variety • 3 Cloves roasted chopped leaves the filling. Close the dough by the edges and roll it into a savoury food option in Bihari cuisine. This is of sweet delicacies like its neighbouring West garlic • 2 tbs mustard oil smooth ball. • ½ tsp lemon juice • Salt as per taste one of the specialties of the Mithila region Bengal such as the Anarasa, Belgrami, Maner • Put these balls on a wire mesh of gas oven/tandoor and • 1 chopped green chilli and is obtained from the water source. The ke Motichoor Ladoo, Khaja, Khurma, Khubi ka cook turning both sides until it is cooked properly. Put your oven on broil mode for 2-3 minutes turning both lotus seeds are roasted with a dash of ghee Lai, Laktho, Parwal ka Mithai, Pua and Mal Pua, For Tomato Chutney • 3 tomatoes • 1 tbs mustard oil sides to get a crisp covering. Drizzle with ghee. when used as a snack. In its dry roasted form, Thekua, Murabba and Tilkut. Many of these • 1 tsp chopped chilles • 1 tsp red chilli powder makhana is popularly eaten during fasting, originate in towns in the vicinity of the capital city • 2 tbs chopped onion • Salt to taste For Chokha while it is also popularly used in place of rice of Bihar – Patna. • 1 tbs chopped coriander • To prepare the chokha, wash, dry and slit the brinjal. to cook a special kind of kheer – a traditional Dry roast the brinjal, garlic and chillies directly on fire or For Litti Stuffing sweet rice pudding. This sweet preparation is Laddoos of Maner is the most famous and using a hot griddle. Once done, peel the brinjal to remove • ½ cup sattu (roasted • 1 chopped green chilli the skin and then mash them well. Transfer these into a much different from any other kheer or any delicious Bihari sweet preparation. A laddoo is a black gram flour) • 1 tsp mustard oil bowl. sweet dish made in other Indian regions. The round sweet hand-made ball of gram flour, sugar • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp lemon juice • Add garlic, salt, mustard oil, lemon juice, green chillis pudding of makhana in milk is first prepared and ghee. • ½ tsp carom seeds • ½ handful chopped and chopped green coriander leaves in the bowl. Mix the over heat, and then allowed to cool under the • ½ tsp chopped garlic coriander leaves ingredients well. The chokha is ready to be served. • 2 tbs chopped onions • 2 tsp pickle masala sky in the night time. Thekua is one of the traditional sweet items found • Transfer the chokha in a serving bowl. Dip the litti balls in in Bihari kitchens, almost mandatorily prepared For Dough some melted ghee and place along with the chokha. • Enjoy the flavours of this Bihari delicacy! in every home. It is served in many variations: it • 1 cup whole wheat Flour • 1 tbs ghee • ½ tsp carom seeds • Water as required could be crispy or soft, big or small, etc. But the Sweets include Anarasa, Belgrami, • 1 pinch salt For Tomato Chutney Maner ke Motichoor Ladoo, Khaja, cooking method is more or less the same. • To prepare the tomato chutney, wash and dry roast the tomato on a hot griddle, till it become charred from Method Khurma, Khubi ka Lai, Laktho, outside and soft from inside. Keep it aside and let it cool. Then, there is the luscious malpua, a specialty This recipe is extremely easy to put-together and can be a Once done, peel the tomatoes to remove the skin and Parwal ka Mithai, Pua and Mal of the state. It is prepared by combining maida, nice during rainy seasons. then mash them well. Transfer these into a bowl. milk, banana, grated coconut, cashew nut, • To prepare the dough, take a mixing bowl and add wheat Pua, Thekua, Murabba and Tilkut • Mash the tomatoes using hand. Make sure not to make a flour, carom seeds. Add ghee and a pinch of salt in it. raisins, sugar, water and green cardamom, and fine paste, keep it little chunky. Add some water and knead soft dough. Keep it aside for fried in ghee. • Add salt, mustard oil, red chilli powder, green chillis, 15-20 mins. onions and chopped green coriander leaves in the bowl. • To prepare the filling, take a bowl and mix sattu (black Mix the ingredients well. Tomato chutney is ready to be Khaaja is a world renowned multi-layered sweet, gram flour), pickle masala, mustard oil, lemon juice, served. popularly savoured in its rectangular-shaped carom seeds, chopped onion, coriander leaves, green version. It is so delicious that you just can’t chillies and salt together. stop at one!
Belgrami is a sweet made of chhena, the same material with which the Bengal delicacy rasogulla is prepared. The Rohtas district is famous for this unique sweet dish.
It is hard to put all of what Bihar has to offer food lovers through its cuisine, but as a Chef who hails from this region, I can assure you that it is a cuisine that must not be missed for the diverse tastes it offers.● Photo: Shutterstock Photo: Chef Nandita Karan Executive Chef – The Lalit, Chandigarh Photo: Shutterstock Photo:
44 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 45 regional cuisine
AHUNA MUTTON CURRY Ingredients • 1 kg mutton (curry cut) • 1 tsp turmeric powder small pieces • 1 tsp Garam Masala • 5 large onions, thinly powder sliced lengthwise • ¾ cup curd (optional) • 1/3 cup garlic cloves, • 1 bay leaf crushed • Few peppercorns • 1 tbs ginger, crushed • 1/3- ½ cup mustard oil • 4-5 green chilies • 1 ½ tbs ghee • 2 tbs red chili powder, • Salt as required or as desired
Method • In a large mixing bowl, take the mutton, sliced onions, crushed ginger-garlic, and green chilies and mix well. • Add chilli powder, salt, turmeric powder, Garam Masala, peppercorns and bay leaf along with half of the mustard oil. Mix everything well. • Add marinated mutton in earthen pot and seal it properly with dough. • Put earthen pot on charcoal (can also prepare on gas MAKHANA KHEER flame) and cook it for 2 hours on slow fire. Shake the pot Ingredients occasionally to mix the mutton properly. • 100 gms makhana • Few green cardamom • No need to add extra water as it Mutton will leave its (lotus seed) • Slivers of dry fruits like own juice. • 1 lit full fat milk almonds cashews for • Open the lid of the pot and stir the mutton. Again • 5 tbs sugar garnish close the lid of the pot and seal it. Shake occasionally • 1 tbs ghee and open after another hour to check if the mutton has cooked. Cook more if required. Time may vary Method depending upon the size of the mutton pieces. • Heat ghee in a heavy bottom pan and fry makhana till • Add ghee before serving and garnish with fresh very light brown in colour. Keep aside. coriander leaves and ginger. • When cooled, it will become very crisp. Crush the makhana in mortal and pestle, or in a mixer for 3-4 sec. • Now boil milk in a pan and simmer to let it reduce. Original Price Offer Price • Add the crushed makhana and with sugar to the milk and cook on low heat for about 15 minutes uncovered Annual Subscription (for 6 issues) `1,800 `1,499 till the kheer becomes slightly thick. Sprinkle cardamom powder in kheer. For students of Hospitality academies `1,800 `999 • Take it off the heat and serve hot or cold with slivers (with valid ID proof) of nuts.
Photos: Shutterstock Photos: International Price $150/£110
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46 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 chef relations
work as a close-knit team. Front Line of Food They need to use this skill of teamwork and extend it to the A dish prepared with all your heart – but not served restaurant staff as well. A great right, would spoil the experience for any guest! Chef is one who possesses the ability to work cohesively as part of a team and exercises good judgment. ust imagine what is it that makes you want to visit a restaurant again, and again? Great food, of course! But, it Serving a fabulous meal to the guest Jis not just that. Great food must also be complemented by equally requires great skill as well. The waiting great service. staff has to be attentive, not to keep the guest waiting – especially if they are thirsty. They must In the business of food, as in any other business, the customer is king! try and ensure timely service. Ideally, they must No matter how cool you are as a Chef, oozing talent and delivering be well-versed not just with the menu items but delicacies that your diners go gaga over, you wouldn’t get quite also the finer details of each item that a guest far unless you are supported by the right persons on the frontline. may enquire about – the allergens, vegan and Between the workplace of a conscientious Chef – the kitchen, and vegetarian options, and so on. The correct plate the diner’s plate, lies a very slippery route that could make or mar the must reach the right guest, as one can’t afford to guest experience. Manoeuvring this route is the restaurant service get these aspects of service wrong – allergens or staff. One can only learn to value the relationship between the service vegan or vegetarian or non-alcoholic drinks, etc. team and the kitchen fellows once the reality of their interdependence Establishments can lose face, repute and even get strikes home. sued by irate guests!
A great plate can lose its impact due to a service delay or mess-up. In How critical this coordination of service staff can fact, the first person or the only person that a guest interacts with is be is evident during banquet dinners where they SUDHIR SIBAL the server. And the first impression can be the last, as they asy! How need to simultaneously serve the meals to all the Editor, Cuisine Digest and Ambassador, World Chefs Without often have you heard friends complaining about “how rude the waiter sit-down guests. One would see how they would Borders was at that restaurant?!” or “we will never go back to that place again!” use signs to identify the vegetarian or teetotaller You wouldn’t want that happening to your food or your place. On the guest by placing a rose petal beneath their glass, other hand, most people who are frequent visitors to an eatery cite the or a colour mark behind their seats, etc. In an warmth and efficacy of food service as one of the key reasons apart from ITC Maurya restaurant, for instance, they use a
ambience and undoubtedly of course, the food. different-coloured glass to help recognize the Shutterstock Photos: vegetarian on the table. The idea is to get the right With good relations between the two parts of the restaurant teams food to the right guest. Most people who – kitchen and service, one can hope to strike the correct notes for success. So, begin by working on this aspect by reaching out to the One idea to develop appreciation for each other’s work is to swap are frequent front of house staff, waiters and servers, and try and understand their shifts for some staff members across the two departments – kitchen visitors to an challenges. Put yourself in their situation in order to gain empathy for and waiting. Nothing could possibly drive home the point better. Let their circumstances – which could be equally stressful in a busy shift, the waiting staff watch first-hand the toil of preparing that fine meal, eatery cite the pretty much like the Chefs. and let the Chefs take the plate to the table and serve it professionally. warmth and Additionally, Chefs these days are not restricted to the confining walls of efficacy of food Management should ensure regular interactions between their kitchens. In standalone restaurants and even hotel banquets, they the two departments to bring up and resolve any frequently step out to interact with their guests and solicit feedback. service as one of issues, encourage suggestions and try and work on One can see Chefs sharing anecdotes, striking a conversation with their the key reasons points of conflict. The kitchen itself is an intense customers at times. They address complaints, if any, and assure review workplace. Usually, kitchens are not that big and of food quality or related issues that may be mentioned. That, of course, apart from require more interpersonal exchanges to facilitate doesn’t mean that they can replace the waiters and servers. ambience and the business of cooking meals. Add to that the “finer” aspects of dining, and you just can’t afford As American business author Michael LeBoeuf puts it, “A satisfied undoubtedly of a mess up. The kitchen teaches the Chefs to customer is the best business strategy of all!” ● course, the food
48 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 49 restaurant journey
RASA The Young Turks of Fast Casual
A switch from the corporate How did the idea of RASA come about? experience Indian food and world to the restaurant business We quite literally grew up and learned to walk culture in a way that was inside of the family restaurants. After we accessible and fun after years has been sweetly rewarding for graduated from school, we started working in of people regarding it as the entrepreneurs Rahul Vinod and corporate jobs, but the industry called us back opposite. Our initial idea began Sahil Rahman. Making Indian so we left our professional jobs to get back when we were in high school and cuisine accessible through their into the restaurant world. We spent a couple noticed that many people were afraid arduous years training in the kitchen at our to try Indian food, but fell for it once Washington DC-based RASA – a family restaurants to prepare, and then took the they gave it a shot. We realized that if fast-casual joint, and well on their business acumen we gained in school and in our we could make trying Indian food more way to expansion, they share corporate jobs to help us run RASA. fun than frightening, then we could get people to open their minds to our their restaurant journey with RASA is inspired by our own experiences cuisine and culture. This was the initial Urvashi Sibal navigating our identities as Indian-Americans. idea, and it is very gratifying to see that We wanted to give people the opportunity to 10 years later it has come to life.
50 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 restaurant journey TURMERIC GINGER SHRIMP SERVES 4-6 Ingredients • In a small bowl, mix together the marinade mixture The Service style is the traditional For the Marinade • 2 tsp coconut oil and add shrimp. Use your hands to gently massage the • 1 ½ tsp ground • 1 quart large shrimp (peeled marinade onto the shrimp, making sure to evenly coat. assembly line fast-casual model, turmeric powder and deveined, tail-off*) Cover and refrigerate the shrimp for 1 hour. where guests can build their own • ¼ tsp kosher salt • 1/3 cup peeled ginger cut For the Sautéing Sauté bowls as they walk down a line, or into julienne (approx. • 3 tbs coconut oil • Warm a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the order one of the Chef’s Favourites one 2” piece of ginger) • ½ tsp black pan is quite hot, add the oil, swirling the pan to coat the • ½ cup jalapeño cut into mustard seeds entire surface. Add the black mustard seeds and wait julienne (approx. 1 to 2 • 2 sprig curry leaves until they begin to pop and dance around in the oil (they jalapeño peppers) • ½ tsp crushed red should also start to turn white). Add the curry leaves, Are you offering a Traditional or a Modern • 1 sprig curry leaves chili flakes making sure they get fully coated in the oil (they will also food experience? • 1/3 cup shallots sliced • ½ cup shallots (approx. likely pop and splatter). Once the curry leaves crisp up, RASA is a Modern food experience that has (approx. 1 medium sized 1-2 medium sized add the crushed red chili flakes followed immediately by the shallots, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes until the shallots a palate spanning all of India. From our naan shallot) shallots) become golden brown in color. breads to our South Indian rice noodles, we tried METHOD • Add the marinated shrimp to the pan, making sure to create a menu that is truly representative Make the Marinade the shrimp is evenly spaced out. Sauté the shrimp, of the many cuisines India has to offer. We • Using a mortar and pestle, mix the turmeric, salt, ginger stirring occasionally, until white throughout, about 3 have brought authentic traditional recipes and julienne, jalapeno julienne, curry leaves, shallots and to 4 minutes. flavours to the masses via a modern dining coconut oil. Mash vigorously until all ingredients are • Remove from heat, spoon the shrimp into a bowl and serve. format and approach. combined.
What is the concept that you have based RASA What is the USP of your restaurant? on? How have you designed the interiors of RASA is able to bring together the rich cultures the restaurant? What is the service style? and flavours of India with modern fine-casual The concept has always been to make Indian dining in an accessible, affordable way. Our cuisine accessible. The Interiors of the restaurant unique and elegant space allows guests to be are meant to highlight the fun and colourful present and enjoy the sit-down experience, while energy of India, while remaining welcoming to our quick service style enables people on the go those less familiar with the culture. To that end, to grab their meal and enjoy at home. we’ve designed a high-end, modern restaurant, that has a unique and exciting feel when you walk What would you call your ‘hot’ selling menu through the big blue door, that was actually made listing? in and shipped all the way from Delhi to DC. The Our most popular bowl is called ‘Tikka Chance Service style is the traditional assembly line fast- on Me’. It features chicken tikka, tomato garlic casual model, where guests can build their own sauce, sautéed spinach, kuchumber salad, bowls as they walk down a line, or order one of pickled onions, and pickled radishes topped the Chef’s Favourites off the menu. with mint cilantro and toasted cumin dressings. The ‘Home Cooking’ which is a South Indian What kind of cuisine do you offer on the menu? bowl featuring Turmeric Ginger Shrimp is also Is it updated with the change of season? very popular. RASA offers high-quality, fresh, and healthful Indian food. Menu items rotate seasonally, What is your social media presence and how and we partner with as many local suppliers do you engage your customers away from the as possible. The menu is broken into different restaurant? sections (i.e. Base, Mains, Sauces, Veggies, RASA is active on Instagram, Facebook, and Toppings, and Chutneys) where guests pick one Twitter, and has over 6,000 combined followers from each section to build their meal. The menu on these platforms. Social media has allowed us was developed in collaboration with Rahul’s to highlight elements of our brand that are key father, Chef Vinod, and we performed extensive to RASA’s identity—from our food to our values. testing with our target audience to narrow down Most importantly, it has allowed us to tell our own on which items would make the final cut onto story and engage with the supporters who have the menu. made RASA’s continued success a reality.
52 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 53 restaurant journey
Have you made some exceptional efforts in the areas of slow food and sustainable food production? Absolutely. Sustainability is a huge priority for us over at RASA. To that end, our restaurant is wind powered, we use compostable packaging, and actually have cloth bags instead of plastic of paper bags.
Do you engage with your diners on subjects like Portion Awareness/Food wastage/Eating local and seasonal produce, etc.? What is your engagement with the community with respect to donation of food surplus to the needy, etc.? Yes, we source locally whenever possible, and work very hard with our team to reduce our food waste as much as possible. We do a very good job on the food waste front, and as a result, do not have much of any product leftover at the end It is extremely rewarding and filled of our shifts to donate. That said, we work with with learning, but I feel strongly amazing non-profit organizations such as DC that a chef must have clear answers Central Kitchen to help feed the needy and fight food waste. We have also partnered with Akshaya for why they are doing what they Patra to provide one mid-day meal to students are doing before venturing out for every meal we serve at RASA. Photos: Ray Lopez Ray Photos: Do you engage with the farmers/producers? Do you promote RASA by participating in food What would be your advice to Chefs who Yes! We are excited to share that we are Yes. We work with a number of local and festivals or through occasional offers? want to venture out on their own in the food opening up two new restaurants in the hyperlocal suppliers, including many of our We are very active in our community, and take business as entrepreneurs? Washington, DC metro area in 2020. We will friends who run urban farms or produce products great pride in being a third space and gathering Before venturing out on their own, I would look to continue growing the brand, and hope within the city itself. place in the neighbourhood. We participate in strongly encourage chefs to ask why they want to to share Indian cuisine on a national scale in the many local food events and partner with local start their own business, and what unique value near future. Do share with us your achievements, and brands whenever possible, and will occasionally they are bringing to the world by opening their recognition received from the industry have fun promotions on big holidays and events. business. It is an extremely difficult industry, and Do you have a succession plan for your and elsewhere – as a Chef and also for the owning a restaurant is very different from running business? Do you mentor young Chefs and restaurant. What are the key challenges that you have a kitchen, and will be a major shift in lifestyle from pass on the knowledge to the next generation We were winners of the Eater Young Guns Award faced while setting up the restaurant or face being the chef of a restaurant as there are many of culinary professionals? in 2018, which is an annual award granted to 15 even now? more responsibilities. It is extremely rewarding While the industry has definitely given us a few groups across the country, recognizing up and Finding and retaining talent in any industry and filled with learning, but I feel strongly that a grey hairs, we are both under 30 years old right coming culinary talent. We were also named Best is extremely difficult, and especially so in the chef must have clear answers for why they are now, and have much to learn and accomplish New Restaurant, Trendiest Restaurant, and Best foodservice world. This has been the biggest doing what they are doing before venturing out. before we pass off the torch. That said, we Fast Casual in the city by the Washington City challenge we have faced, and we are grateful to absolutely spend time with other young chefs Paper in 2018. In addition, the Washingtonian have a strong and dedicated team in place now What next? How do you see the next phase and aspiring restaurateurs to help them on Magazine included us in their prestigious “Best that is committed to helping us build the RASA of this restaurant pan out – as a chain or as a their journey, and love seeing people follow Places to Eat Cheap” list, and the Washington brand and grow our impact. standalone? Do you plan to expand? their passions. Post had us in their Fall Dining Guide as well. ●
54 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 55 festive foods
Be it the traditional French cake Bûche de Noël, or the plum pudding (with no plums!), the holiday season is a pâtissière’s reason to celebrate, says Chef Subhayan Das
Holiday t the very mention of the word “holiday”, ties and shared architectural heritage with the first thing that prompts our minds the French, Pondicherry attracts visitors from all is the year-long awaited festive months around the world. Aof winter. The sweetest of seasons is the arrival of Christmas followed by New Year. CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN PONDICHERRY Apart from time spent with family, one of the Come Yuletide, celebrations abound with brightly best things about the holiday season are the decorated colossal Christmas trees, fairy lights, Bakes sweet indulgences. Cookies, cakes and delicious authentic lantern displays, shops decked up in desserts are everywhere, and if you are lucky Christmas décor, music streaming from the little enough to be travelling during the “holiday windows and all things Christmas-sy! One of season”, you may even indulge in the different the age-old traditions that the town embraces desserts that are special to different countries in annually is the Christmas Market or the Marche the world. With the Christmas merriments and de Noël, thanks to Amicale de Pondicherry. the celebrations of a fresh new year in the offing, Mission Street in Pondicherry comes alive during people look forward to several ways to celebrate. Christmas and seems like one of the merriest streets in the town during the holidays. While some celebrate with friends and spend time with their near and dear ones, others prefer A culinary pilgrimage all along the Christmas to explore some new places. Whether one wants time, Pondicherry gets all festive with its to unwind in a Christmas-saturated wonderland hustling and bustling gastro hubs. The eateries or laze on a beach somewhere, Pondicherry has come alive with the spirit of Christmas with an everything going for it. Pondicherry, the French infectious atmosphere and delectable food. capital of India, is the home of all things Zen and Sample some sumptuous Christmas meal with cool. There is something about this quaint dinners and brunches replete with the traditional little town that sets it apart in terms of its turkey-eating custom and great wine! And of cultural appeal. With its deep-rooted course, if you are on a lookout for desserts, the place has on offer a range of festive bakes to bite into, and indulge!
BÛCHE DE NOËL Bûche de Noël translates to “Yule Log” in English, and is a sponge cake that is filled and baked in a cylindrical form to resemble a log, hence the name. Though there are many varieties on the filling, chocolate buttercream is a traditional favourite. Usually covered with chocolate icing,
The ashes from this log were believed to protect the dwelling from lightning and evil spirits! Over time, the Bûche de Noël was replaced by the “edible” one Photos: Shutterstock Photos:
Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 57 festive foods
BÛCHE DE NOËL PLUM CAKE A CHOCOLATE SWISS-ROLL STYLE CAKE, FILLED • Add in half of the egg whites and use a rubber spatula to Ingredients WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND COVERED IN MOCHA gently fold the whites into the batter. You don't have to CHOCOLATE FROSTING be extra gentle at this point since you are merely trying For Soaking Dry Fruits • 1 cup brown sugar to loosen up the batter with the egg whites. Now, add • ¼ cup raisins • 2/3 cup vegetable oil Ingredients the remaining half of egg whites and, this time, be very • ¼ cup cranberries • 2 cups plain flour For the Cake • ¼ cup powdered sugar plus gentle when folding the whites into the batter with your • ¼ cup figs • ½ tsp baking soda • 4 eggs yolks and whites more for dusting spatula; make light, long folds. • ¼ cup cherries • 1 tsp baking powder separated • ½ tsp vanilla extract • Pour the batter into you're prepared pan and use your • ¼ cup apricot • ½ tsp cinnamon powder • ½ cup sugar For the Frosting spatula to gently smooth out the batter. Don't tap the • 0.25 cup pitted dry dates • Pinch of salt • ¼ cup unsweetened • 6 oz dark or bittersweet pan or move the pan side to side - you don't want to ruin • 1 cup grape juice/apple • ¼ tsp nutmeg powder cocoa powder chocolate chips 3/4 cup the air bubbles you created with the whipped egg whites. juice or, you can also use • ½ tsp cardamom powder • 1/3 cup cake flour • ½ tbs softened unsalted Bake the cake for 6 to 7 minutes, or until the cake springs red wine/brandy/rum or • 1 tsp vanilla extract • ½ tsp instant coffee butter back when gently pressed by the tip of your finger (for me, any alcohol • ½ tsp orange granules • 1 tsp instant coffee granules it's always about 6 ½ minutes in the oven). Let the cake • ¼ tsp almonds • 1 tsp baking powder For Fruit Cake Batter • 2/3 cup heavy cream slightly cool in the pan for 2 minutes - no longer. • 1 ¼ cups water, warm • ¼ tsp walnut • ¼ tsp salt • ½ tbs Kahlua • Meanwhile, prepare a light kitchen/tea towel by For the Filling • ½ tsp vanilla extract sprinkling powdered sugar all over it. Flip the cake out Method • 1 cup heavy whipping • Cranberries and rosemary onto the towel and very gently peel the parchment paper • Firstly, soak dry fruits in grape juice/alcohol. cream for garnishing off inch by inch. Grab one of the short sides of the cake • Furthermore, take warm water, powdered sugar and oil. Blend. and roll it towards the other short side, rolling the towel • Further sieve plain flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon Method with it as you go. Let the cake remain in this rolled shape powder, nutmeg powder, cardamom powder and salt. • Preheat your oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet until it is completely cool. (Note: It is important to do • Also add orange zest and vanilla extract. pan with parchment paper. Cut a slit in the parchment this while the cake is still warm as the cake is still flexible • Blend till the batter is combined and squeezed dry fruits, almonds and paper in each of the four corners of the pan so that the at this point and this prevents the cake from cracking or walnuts. Gently mix. parchment paper lies completely flat against the edges tearing as you roll it). • Further, transfer the cake batter into the cake mould. of the pan. Use office binder clips to clip the parchment • Meanwhile, create the frosting by adding the chocolate • Bake at 180°C for 40 minutes. paper to the edges of the pan. Set aside. chips, coffee granules, kahlua, unsalted butter, and • Finally, serve the Christmas fruit cake. • Drop the egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk vanilla extract to a medium bowl. Heat the heavy cream Photo: Shutterstock on high speed for about 2 to 3 minutes, until wet, soft over medium-low heat until it’s hot but not boiling (the peaks form. You want the whites to stay hanging on your edges should begin to simmer and steam should rise whisk when they're held upside down, but you don't want from the cream). Pour this hot cream over the chocolate Despite the name ‘plum cake’, it them so stiff and dry like you would for a merengue (aim the Yule log is then raked with a serrated knife or and contents in the bowl, then use a spoon to stir the a fork to lend the woody texture, garnished with for softly curled tips). Temporarily set the whites aside. mixture together until it’s completely smooth. Cover the does not contain actual plums. nuts and candied fruit. • In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together bowl with a sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 Then, why the name? Probably until they're pale yellow. In a separate, smaller bowl, minutes - no longer. sift the cocoa powder, cake flour, coffee granules, • While the frosting chills, whip up your heavy cream in your There is also a little story behind the Yule log- due to the pre-Victorian use of the baking powder, and salt together. Add these dry stand mixer on high speed for one minute, or until the cake: in many places across Europe especially word ‘plums’ to signify raisins! ingredients to the bowl containing the egg folds of the whisk start appearing in the cream. Add in the yolks and sugar. Whisk to combine - France, it was customary to bring home a vanilla extract and the powdered sugar and continue to wooden log on Christmas Eve. It would be batter will be very thick and hard whisk on high until the cream is thick like frosting. sprinkled with oil, salt and wine and placed in the flavour, soak the nuts in rum for two to three days to mix, but this is normal, • Once your cake is cool, unroll your cake and use an offset so just try your best to spatula to spread the whipped cream all over the surface, hearth, where it would burn over several days. before adding them to the cake. mix everything leaving a very small border around the edges of the cake The ashes from this log were believed to protect together. unfrosted. Gently roll the cake back up just like you did the dwelling from lightening and evil spirits! Over With its origins in medieval England, this cake before (minus the towel), with the seam side facing down. time, as the hearths were replaced by stoves, often called plum pudding, is rich in dried fruit. • Take a sharp knife and cut off a 2 inch slice from one the bûche de Noël was replaced by the “edible” Despite the name ‘plum cake’, it does not contain end of the cake, cutting at an angle so that one end one we see today. actual plums. Then, why the name? Probably of the slice is 2 inches and the other end is closer to 1 inch. Take this slice and place the side of it that is due to the pre-Victorian use of the word ‘plums’ not cut/exposed and attach it to the main cake log Prepared on the eve of Christmas, the Bûche to signify raisins! Every time the festive season somewhere near the middle of the log. de Noël cake is a typical holiday bake served dawns upon us, and it’s time to explore festive • Use a hand mixer to whisk the chilled frosting throughout this festive time. bakes, traditional is the way to go. ● for 15 to 25 seconds, or until you can see the whisk leaving indentations in the HARDLY “PLUM” frosting. Don’t whisk any longer than that as it will ruin the Plum Cake is almost synonymous with Christmas frosting. Use a rubber and the festive time. The Yuletide season is spatula to smooth the incomplete without this dark, flavourful cake Chef Subhayan Das Head Chef – Poppins Hotal frosting all over the cake Shutterstock Photo: loaded with nuts. If you want to get the perfect
58 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 59 beverages
Going easy on your drinks by giving alcohol a miss during the holiday Not Drinking season - is a trend finding many serious takers the world over, reveals hospitality icon Anil Bhandari
Tonight? o drinks? Are you kidding?!” Escaping intoxicating cocktails isn’t ever easy when you frequent social gatherings, Nespecially in the beautiful cold winter season resplendent with festive cheer. You don’t want to mar the gaiety of the occasion! Of course, going sober doesn’t mean that you are off non-alcoholic ones as well. Fortunately, you may be less likely to get that repartee the next time you opt for a sober alternative at the bar to a hard liquor when partying as the world is slowly making way for those who would rather mull on this line rather than mulled wine:
“WHAT TO DRINK WHEN YOU’RE NOT DRINKING?” By switching on the teetotaller mode, even briefly, one can reap in benefits experiencing
better health, as well as many other positives Shutterstock Photos: over the long run, as is widely believed. On the other hand, one is only too aware of the The accepted way to deal with the overwhelming detrimental social and health non-drinkers at the bar till not impacts accruing from over-indulgence in booze, often tipping over to fall in the zone of chronic so long ago had been to cover up alcoholism. the lack of alcohol with even more sugar and fruit juice It is no wonder that ‘sober bars’ are catching on with adults in the West. There has been a remarkable surge of non-alcoholic drinks on the non-alcoholic alternative that balances crisp cocktail menus as well. How exactly do these flavours with natural ingredients, Seedlip has sober drinks taste like? Well, the accepted way championed the non-alcoholic category since its to deal with the non-drinkers at the bar till not so inception into the market four years ago. Building long ago had been to cover up the lack of alcohol on those tenets, the cocktail book expands with even more sugar and fruit juices. These upon them for the health-minded and cocktail oversweet mocktails though are slowly being enthusiasts. “Whether you’re a professional replaced by nuanced non-alcoholic drinks in this bartender or an at-home experimenter, I hope genre. Here are some. this book demonstrates that cocktails without alcohol when taken seriously, can be both fun and SEEDLIP taste great,” says Seedlip Founder Ben Branson. Claiming to be the world’s first distilled non- alcoholic spirits brand – Seedlip – announced PETITE ROSÉ VERJUS (NA) the launch of their debut publication, the ‘Seedlip This lifestyle wine is a Wölffer Lifestyle Product, Cocktail Book’ recently in December 2019 which has been claimed by the producers to (Weldon Owen). Presented as a sophisticated evoke the style, sophistication, and spirit of
Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 61 beverages
Summer in the Hamptons. Winemaker’s notes for Petite Rosé Verjus describe it as a playful drink of bright salmon rosé colour with a shiny new copper hue. The fruit is pure, they add, with fresh pear and sweet peach as well as apple and hints of lemon. The mouth-feel is vibrant and light with a “nice balance between the fruit, natural sugar and bright acidity and a
refreshing CO2 mousse.” Photos: Shutterstock Photos: Interesting serving suggestions for this light- hearted sparkling wine lay enough emphasis booze-free craft cocktails through their Curious Taking its name from Crodo, for centuries in Chinese and Ayurvedic healing on calling it the perfect choice of beverage for Cocktail Club among other options. Curious a small town located in the traditions, but they’re having a renaissance today. anybody who does not want to drink alcohol. It No. 2, for instance, is what they describe as “a is to be served chilled casually with any meal, smoky, spicy little number that’s in between a Pidemont region of Italy, Crodino Speaking of the shift away from alcoholic drinks, or in a flute for an elegant toast! Also a spicy margarita and a dark-and-stormy.” is often called the “grandfather” the culture of India already leans towards great cooking companion. Incorporate into of non-alcoholic spirits embracing sobriety. No wonder that our country elegant and vibrant sauces or salad dressings. STRYYK NOT VODKA can’t be far behind in this sprint for brands The gentleness of this Verjus will not overpower “All the Spirit, None of the Alcohol,” announces adopting and even developing non-alcoholic even the finest wine. Wonderful the brand Stryyk Not Vodka on its CRODINO options. 2019 has seen players like Coca-Cola, and refreshing to drink as a promotions, calling this A popular European non-alcoholic bitter aperitif Anheuser-Busch InBev and Heineken vying for spritzer or try it as the main beverage a refreshing Crodino is made using aromatic herbs. Taking or entering into the large untapped F&B domain. ingredient for a Margarita non-alcoholic alternative its name from Crodo, a small town located in Coca-Cola had earlier introduced the Barbican or other cocktail. to traditional vodka, the Pidemont region of Italy, it is often called the malt beverage with zero percent alcohol in India. made from a combination “grandfather” of non-alcoholic spirits. Well, it has Economics and surveys as well as beverage CURIOUS ELIXIRS of cucumber, coriander been around since the 1960s. And then, there are innovations by mixologists and big brands all ‘Shaken, Not Slurred,’ is how and apple. The producers the sparkling waters. point towards one thing – the glass is more than the tag line of this brand of claim it’s 100 percent half full for those who refrain from indulging in ‘curiously complex’ booze- natural with no added RECESS alcohol! Time to raise a toast… to health! ● free cocktails goes. They sugar, no artificial flavours Recess is described by its producers as a sparkling claim to be handmade with and no allergens. Similarly, water infused with hemp extract and ‘adaptogens’ the best ingredients and no Stryyk offers non-alcoholic for balance and clarity. These adaptogens are added sugar in the Hudson alternatives to rum and gin understood as plants marketed to assisting the Anil Bhandari Chairman, AB Smart Concepts Valley, offering a variety of as well. body in resisting stressors of various kinds, in use
62 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 63 culinary news EVENTS UPCOMING EVENTS GLOBAL CHEFS CHALLENGE WORLDCHEFS CONGRESS & EXPO 2020 IN ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA, JULY 29–AUG. 1, 2020
The Global Chefs Challenge is where the world’s top chefs meet to compete in three categories: the Global Chefs Challenge, the Global Pastry Chefs Challenge, and the Global Young Chefs Challenge. Selected through top performance The Congress aims to bring together 5,000 at the Culinary World Cup and the Worldchefs chefs and celebrated voices in gastronomy for a Regional Semi-Finals, qualifying teams go dynamic four-day forum "designed to transform head-to-head at the preeminent Worldchefs an industry into an inspired community." Congress and Global Chef Challenge Final. It helps shape future trends through Here, the best and brightest convene to show diverse expert workshops and educational IFCA hosts 8th International Chefs Conference in New Delhi mastery in the culinary arts. programmes, an international trade exhibition October 3-5, 2019 and competitive events for Chefs. Network and India’s nodal body of culinary professionals, The next one will be organised at St. Petersburg expand your professional bonds with the most Indian Federation of Culinary Associations (IFCA), in Russia, from July 29 to August 1, 2020 during influential culinary body worldwide. Register hosted its 8th International Chefs Conference the biennial Worldchefs Congress & Expo. now at www.worldchefscongress.org. at New Delhi from October 3 to 5, 2019. The theme of the conference was, 'Eat Right. Power a Healthy Planet.' SLOW FOOD EVENT FHIN – 2020, MUMBAI, INDIA TERRA MADRE SALONE DEL GUSTO, Food and Hotel Attended by over a thousand Indian Chefs and OCTOBER 8–12, 2020 India (FHIn) will be culinary students, as well as some international October 2020 will see the organised from June Chefs, the ICC saw three days of knowledge-sharing and initiatives in the culinary space. Chef Gilles biggest biennial global 10 to 12, 2020 at Rennuson conducted a session on ‘How Competitions are the research and development of our event dedicated to food, the Bombay Exhibition Industry,’ while Chef Andy Cuthbert spoke on ‘Your Career Path - CHEF or COOK?’ and Chef Christopher environment, agriculture Centre, Mumbai. Koetke presented on ‘Food Waste: Good for the Planet and Good for Business,’ among others. and food politics - the 13th The annual congregation of food and edition of Terra Madre Salone del Gusto hospitality professionals, held under the Health Minister Dr. Harsh Vardhan, Dr Pawan Agarwal, CEO of FSSAI - the apex food safety regulatory dedicated to good, clean and fair food for all. aegis of Informa Markets in India, draws body of India, journalist Veer Sanghvi, and other eminent persons participated with Chefs in taking up, It draws around 7000 delegates of the Terra a wide spectrum of participants from the discussing and pledging support for implementing FSSAI’s Eat Right India Movement components: Madre network from 150 countries. food sector. Professional Chef bodies like elimination of trans fat, the Green Purple initiative for Chefs, among others. the West India Chefs Association or WICA, According to Paolo Di Croce, Gen Secy of and IFCA, conductcompetitions for Chefs The Green Purple initiative aims to qualify Chefs on food safety legal requirements and sustainable Slow Food, “...this historic moment in the and culinary students, and hold engaging cooking methods, in order to promote trans-fat free cooking. life of Slow Food, make(s) the next edition panel discussions debating the current as CHEFS’ MANIFESTO of Terra Madre an extraordinary occasion, well as futuristic trends in the food and perhaps the most important yet celebrated”. hospitality sector. Towards a Better Food Future for All DISCUSSING CHEFS’ MANIFESTO, NOV 3, 2019 IFCA, Chefs Guild of India and Cuisine Digest CHEF’s PAVILLION at SIAL organised a Chef’s Manifesto dialogue on Global, SIAL INDIA – SEPTEMBER 17-19, 2020 National and Local action on SDG2 in New Delhi. The offering of SIAL’s India edition for the Chef community includes competitive events and Paul Newnham, Coordinator – SDG2 Advocay Hub, MasterChef classes and demos for culinary students and visitors by Chefs Guild of India stressed on “the need for Chefs to get involved in (affiliated to IFCA), at the Chef’s pavilion. this discussion as the way we produce and eat food will determine if we achieve these global goals – a Among other events for Chefs to watch out for in 2020 are: AAHAR food show at Pragati debate where Chefs and farmers play a very critical Maidan, New Delhi in March 2020, India International Hospitality Expo at Noida in August 2020. part.” According to him, “Chefs can either be a part Chefs can also become a part of Worldchefs’ 1st VEGAN Competition Seminar to be hosted in of the solution or a part of the problem!” Italy during EXPOCOOK 2020 in Palermo on February 27-28, 2020. Visit www.CuisineDigest.co.
64 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 Volume 2 | Issue 6 | Cuisine Digest 65 chef calendar
FIRST SUNDAY OF FEBRUARY | British Yorkshire Pudding Day Chefs, who have previously been culinary students, are all too familiar with the British Yorkshire pudding. It is not a pudding, but a savoury, which is considered an essential component of the traditional English roast dinner – where it is served alongside roast beef. Early on, it had been referred to as a ‘dripping pudding’ due to the use of the juices from meat. The first Sunday of February is the British Yorkshire Pudding Day. In 2020, it falls on February 2. Photos: Shutterstock Photos:
FEBRUARY 10 | World Pulses Day (UN) At its seventy-third session, the United Nations General Assembly, proclaimed February 10 as the World Pulses Day – to heighten public awareness of the nutritional benefits of pulses and their contribution to the achievement of the 2030 Agenda and the need to further sustainable agriculture.
MARCH 30 | World Idli Day The savoury fluffy rice cakes used as a staple breakfast option in southern parts of India (and popular all across the country), idlis too have a day in their honour – March 30. The World Idli Day credited to Chennai-based idli caterer Eniyavan who started celebrating it around five years ago.
CHEF TRIVIA: DID YOU KNOW? Which is the Oldest Restaurant in the world? A French cook called Jean Botín and his Asturian wife opened Restaurante Botín in Calle de Cuchilleros, Madrid, in 1725. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the oldest restaurant in the world in continuous operation. Photo: Wikipedia Photo:
66 Cuisine Digest | Volume 2 | Issue 6 DELENG/2017/74590
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