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Desire for Good: the Mac Viva Glam Advertising Campaign

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Desire for Good: the Mac Viva Glam Advertising Campaign DESIRE FOR GOOD: THE MAC VIVA GLAM ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN by ANGELINE LUCINDA WEISS (Under the Direction of James F. Hamilton) ABSTRACT This study examines the multi-stage advertising campaign produced by MAC Cosmetics for Viva Glam, a line of products whose entire selling price is donated to the MAC AIDS Fund. The advertisements appeared between 1994 and 2010, and featured celebrity endorsers RuPaul, k.d. lang, Li’l Kim, Mary J. Blige, Elton John, Shirley Manson, Pamela Anderson, Cyndi Lauper and Lady Gaga. Using textual analysis, the advertisements were analyzed for how desire is generated by the codes they employ. Results of this reading indicate that while the advertisements may appear subversive, they are still contained within the dominant. INDEX WORDS: HIV/AIDS, Cause-Related Marketing, Advertising, MAC Cosmetics DESIRE FOR GOOD: THE MAC VIVA GLAM ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN by ANGELINE LUCINDA WEISS B.A., Smith College, 2001 A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of The University of Georgia in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree MASTER OF ARTS ATHENS, GEORGIA 2010 © 2010 Angeline Lucinda Weiss All Rights Reserved DESIRE FOR GOOD: THE MAC VIVA GLAM ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN by ANGELINE LUCINDA WEISS Major Professor: James F. Hamilton Committee: Peggy Kreshel Elli Lester Roushanzamir Electronic Version Approved: Maureen Grasso Dean of the Graduate School The University of Georgia December 2010 DEDICATION For my parents, Peggy and Joel Weiss whose patience and support never wavered, even when I could not see the escape from my own self doubt My dear friends, Rae, Christopher, Rand and Thom I will never forget you and I know that there will be a cure one day And to the memory of Dr. Warren Jacobs, who taught me the importance of the question, “If not now, when?” - iv - ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Words cannot express my gratitude for Dr. Jay Hamilton, who stuck with me and believed in this project for the years that it took me to complete. He saw value in my work and worth in my writing when I could not myself. I would never be able to accomplish what I have without his input, encouraging words and patience. I would also like to thank Dr. Leara Rhodes, whose friendship and guidance provided the push I needed right when I needed it. Locking me in her house for a weekend where my only focus was this project was a priceless gift, and the pancakes were delicious. I am grateful to Dr. Carolina Acosta-Alzuru, whose course in qualitative research methods led me on the path to this project. All my life, I was led to believe that the only academic work of any worth had to be quantified and measured. Boy, was I wrong. I would also like to thank Dr. Peggy Kreshel and Dr. Elli Lester Roushanzamir for their interest in this project and serving on my committee. I do not know if I can ever repay my family and closest friends for their patience, kindness, understanding and support. When the stress made me a monster, they did not run away. Not once did they criticize me for my struggles or the time it took to complete this. Instead, they knew I would finish all along, and now are ready for the party. So thanks to Mom and Dad, my brother Ben, my best friend Ada, and my boyfriend Daniel. I love you all. - v - TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.............................................................................................................v Introduction: Why Viva Glam? ................................................................................................... viii CHAPTER 1 Literature Review: AIDS, Advertising, and Cause-Related Marketing ........................1 Representation of AIDS in the Media from the Postpositivist Perspective.............2 Critical-Cultural Approaches to AIDS in the Media ...............................................5 Cause-Related Marketing.........................................................................................8 Historical and Capitalist Context of Advertisements.............................................10 Summary................................................................................................................12 2 Theory and Methodology: Using a Structuralist Approach to Textual Analysis to Read the MAC Viva Glam Campaign .........................................................................13 Structuralism..........................................................................................................13 Feminism................................................................................................................17 Research Questions................................................................................................19 Methodology..........................................................................................................19 Summary................................................................................................................21 3 Analysis: Desire is Good: Reading Viva Glam ...........................................................22 Viva Glam I and II: RuPaul and kd lang: A (Very) Practical Joke........................23 Viva Glam III: Lil Kim and Mary J. Blige: Using the Surreal to Make Real - vi - Desire ....................................................................................................................28 Viva Glam IV: Elton John, Mary J. Blige and Shirley Manson: Putting Desire Onstage ..................................................................................................................33 Viva Glam V: Pamela Anderson: High Art and High Gloss .................................36 Viva Glam VII: Cyndi Lauper and Lady Gaga: Packaging Magic Just for “Us Girls”......................................................................................................................39 Conclusion .............................................................................................................44 4 Conclusions..................................................................................................................45 Contributions..........................................................................................................47 Deepening the Present Study .................................................................................48 Opportunities for Further Research .......................................................................49 Final Thoughts.......................................................................................................50 Bibliography ................................................................................................................................52 Appendix ................................................................................................................................54 - vii - Introduction Why Viva Glam? The first time I saw an advertisement for MAC Viva Glam lipstick I was a teenager, and three of my best friends were older gay men infected with HIV. Even at that age, when I did not wear makeup, I was drawn to the ad and the company it promoted because I felt it was doing something good for people I loved dearly. At the time, the fact that the spokesperson was an African-American drag queen in a blonde wig and dominatrix-style latex garb did not faze me at all. The ad was cool. The model was loud. “She” seemed to be yelling, “Yeah, I’m hot. And I know it.” Not only was Viva Glam selling lipstick in order to further the fight against AIDS, they were also selling me an image I wanted to embody. The ad is part of a sixteen-year long campaign that seems to promote the very causes of the disease it purports to want to eradicate. Conventional advertising for AIDS awareness uses fear appeals, showing the ugly and deadly side of the disease with metaphors such as diseased fruit and loaded guns. These ads, on the other hand, present images of sexual freedom if not promiscuity, wealth, opulence. The costumes, color, and facial expressions make the ads rather humorous, almost like cartoons for adults, completely opposite of the dire realities used in other campaigns. If one were to simply deconstruct these ads and compare their elements, it seems they would not make any sense whatsoever because of the seemingly high level of contradiction between their imagery and the charitable cause they promote. However, as the length of the campaign and product sales show, these ads do make sense. They work. What I hope to study - viii - here is the process by which these ads are made meaningful in our society, and how this meaning-making process produces desires that may be completely unexpected. - ix- Chapter 1: AIDS, Advertising, and Cause-Related Marketing The subject of disease has received much scholarly attention. The representation of AIDS in particular has been the subject of many studies due to its prevalence in a variety of media; from widely disseminated news stories and national advertising to underground ’zines. Along with other research in advertising and cause-related marketing, this work has created space for the present study. Historians have shown that current advertisements have a deeply rooted history and that promises of personal improvement—as well as the promise of cures for disease—are nothing new. However, the embrace of the counterculture and difference has only become popular within the last fifty years, thus potentially making previously hidden topics increasingly legitimate. Another key recent development is the emergence of what is known as cause-related marketing,
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