TOD’S SALES RISE/2 ’S STAR SYNDROME/11 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 27, 2005 • $2.00 Belle Fleur — Nothing signals spring like fresh flowers. So it’s fitting that designers have chosen blossoms of all kinds — from watercolor-like bouquets to Pop Art-inspired peonies — for their pre-spring dresses. Here, Cynthia Rose’s silk frock and mink bolero with stone beading. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Retail Holiday Forecast: Modest Sales Increases Amid ConsumerWorries By David Moin

JESUS NEW YORK — The Christmas season beckons retailers — even at the height of summer — with a multitude of challenges in a year that will seriously test them. Retail consolidations and intensifying COSMETICS; STYLED BY FRANK DE pressures on Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Sears, Roebuck and Co. and other low- priced mass chains, as well as Gap Inc., have changed the landscape. By the start of the season, Marshall Field’s, Lord & MAKEUP BY SARA GLICK/BENEFIT Taylor, Neiman Marcus Group and possibly others, such as Carson Pirie Scott, will have new owners with See Retail, Page14 KAREN EYDIE/NEW MODELS; HAIR AND YORK PHOTO BY JOHNPHOTO BY AQUINO; MODEL: 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM Tod’s Sales Up, Growth Seen Slowing WWDWEDNESDAY By Amanda Kaiser Sportswear MILAN — Tod’s posted a 21.8 per- FASHION cent jump in first-half revenue, Designers are trying their hands at floral arranging for pre-spring, pairing but results indicate slowing sales 6 whimsical floral frocks with candy-colored necklaces. growth in the second quarter. For the six months ended June 30, sales rose to 236.8 mil- GENERAL lion euros, or $305.5 million, from The Christmas season beckons retailers — even at the height of summer 194.5 million euros, or $239.2 mil- 1 — with a multitude of challenges in a year that will seriously test them. lion, the year before. The compa- Tod’s posted a 21.8 percent jump in first-half revenue to $305.5 million, but ny said revenue would have risen results indicate slowing sales growth in the second quarter. 22.9 percent at constant exchange 2 rates. The Consumer Confidence Index fell in July, breaking a three-month Dollar figures are at the aver- 2 upswing due to job worries and rising fuel prices at the pump. age exchange rate. Australia’s wool industry is stepping up efforts to defuse the effects of a Although sales were strong, the 8 PETA-led boycott that has gained momentum in the last year. numbers reveal slower growth for the second quarter of the year. WEST: With the last two family members out of St. John’s daily operations, First-quarter sales, released in 18 ceo Richard Cohen now shoulders responsibility for the brand’s future. May, rose 33 percent. Tod’s didn’t break down second-quarter fig- SUZY IS ON VACATION ures, but calculations indicate 8.4 Classified Advertisements ...... 19-23 percent growth. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Tod’s will release first-half [email protected], using the individual’s name. profits Sept. 26. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 “This performance is based FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. on the success of all our brands VOLUME 190, NO. 19. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in in all product categories,” Tod’s February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL chairman and chief executive deliveries in first quarter versus stores increased by only three OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill officer, Diego Della Valle, said second quarter compared with sales points compared with the Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior in a statement. “These results, 2004], which we believe mostly year earlier period. As of June Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. together with a healthy start of affected Fay and Hogan as they 30, Tod’s had 105 directly operat- Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: our winter collections in the are more dependent on whole- ed stores. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS stores, make me fully confident sale sales,” he said. As for the wholesale channel, CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. [we will] achieve our targets for First-half sales rose in all the company said sales ad- Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four this year.” markets. Sales in Italy climbed vanced 27.1 percent to 115.4 mil- weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- Jacques-Franck Dossin, an an- 20.2 percent to 107.1 million lion euros, or $148.9 million. 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit alyst with Goldman Sachs, wrote euros, or $138.2 million. Those Tod’s continued to be the www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail in a research note that the fig- in the rest of Europe increased biggest revenue-generating brand and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED ures confirmed “strong momen- 23.6 percent to 69.5 million for the group, accounting for 60.2 MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND tum of the core Tod’s brand.” euros, or $89.7 million. Revenue percent of first-half sales. Hogan TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Although second-quarter in North America rose 8.3 per- generated 25.7 percent of rev- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE sales came in below the bank’s cent to 27 million euros, or $34.8 enue. Fay revenue accounted for ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. 16 percent growth forecast, the million. Store openings in China 11.6 percent of sales. firm noted that weakness came propelled a 37.2 percent sales Shoes continue to be the from smaller brands Hogan and jump in Asia and the rest of the mainstay product. Footwear Fay. Dossin said the bank “raised world to 33.2 million euros, or sales advanced 19.4 percent to In Brief the bar quite high” after a strong $42.8 million. 157.8 million euros, or $203.6 first quarter. Retail sales in Tod’s directly million. Leather goods and ac- ● U.S. INVESTS ABROAD: Foreign direct investments from U.S. “We knew that we could have operated store network rose 17.1 cessories revenue rose 33 per- firms reached a record $252 billion in 2004, up from $141 billion seen higher volatility in [sec- percent to 121.4 million euros, or cent to 51.8 million euros, or a year earlier, reflecting partly the weakness of the dollar and ond-quarter] sales owing to a $156.6 million. The company $66.8 million. Apparel sales in- continued strong interest among U.S. companies in acquiring change in timing in deliveries said most of this growth was or- creased by 15.9 percent to 26.7 corporate assets abroad, according to estimates from the Paris- versus last year [anticipation of ganic since the total number of million euros, or $34.4 million. based Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. FDIs from the 30 member countries of the OECD, including the U.S., to the rest of the world in 2004 reached $668 billion, up from $593 billion in 2003. China remained the top FDI destination in developing countries with a record $55 bil- lion, up from $47 billion in 2003. Other important destinations Consumer Confidence Declines in July were Singapore, Hong Kong and Brazil. By Vicki M. Young Maury N. Harris, economist at UBS, wrote in ● NEW RESOURCE: Haresh Tharani, chairman of the Tharanco a research note Tuesday, “Higher gasoline prices Group, parent company of Bill Blass Ltd., and Scott Pianin, a NEW YORK — The Consumer Confidence Index probably explain the drop-off in the July Con- founder of Apparel Holdings Group, have joined forces to open fell in July, breaking a three-month upswing due ference Board measure. Average retail gasoline Worldwide Sourcing LLC, a private label fashion knits and to job worries and rising fuel prices. prices were $2.34 a gallon in the first half of July, sweater company targeting the moderate market. Merchandise The Index fell to 103.2 from 106.2 in June. when the Conference Board survey was taken, will be manufactured at several plants located around the Both the Present Situation and the Expectations compared with $2.21, on average, in the month of world. The new firm is located at 1407 Broadway in New York. Indices dropped, as well, with the former falling June.” Laura Ferraro, former president of Vintage Blue, joins as execu- to 118.5 from 120.8 and the latter declining to a John Lonski, the team managing director for tive vice president and Christine Giachetti, former senior mer- reading of 93 from 96.4 last month. the economic group at credit ratings agency chant for the United Retail Group, as design director. The drop in confidence came as a surprise. Moody’s Investors Service, said in his “Talking Merrill Lynch economist David Rosenberg said Points” report on Tuesday that a large number of ● LUCY SECURES FUNDING: Specialty chain Lucy Activewear in a preview note Tuesday before the Con- layoffs also likely weighed down on consumers. has finalized about $20 million in new funding, including a $10 ference Board posted the Index’s results that the According to Lonski, July’s 12-month average million minority stake from women’s retailer Chico’s FAS. Lucy, consensus was for the index to increase 0.5 of the monthly change of the job opportunity based in Portland, Ore., said it will use the financing to acceler- points. He wrote that there could be “downside index was the lowest since the year ended ate its store growth plan. Chico’s is entitled to one representa- risk at 104.0,” due to such events as higher gaso- November 2004. While the latest 12 monthly tive on Lucy’s board. Lucy was founded in 1999 as a Web site, line prices and the London bombings on July 7. changes in the job opportunity index suggest and now has 18 stores around the country. The other financing Lynn Franco, director of the board’s payrolls should be growing at an average rate of came from existing investors, including Lone Pine Capital, Consumer Research Center, said in a statement more than 200,000 new jobs a month, the reality Maveron LLC, Oak Investment Partners and Sutter Hull that July’s decline is “no cause for concern.” She is that new jobs per month are growing at a Ventures, the company said. said the overall state of the economy remains prospective rate of more than 182,000 positions healthy and that consumers’ outlooks are bright, for the year ended July, he noted in the report. at least in the short term. The Conference Board said in July that con- WWD.COM “Yet, while there is little to suggest a down- sumers’ assessments of the labor market were turn in activity, there is also little to suggest a mixed with those expecting more jobs to become Stay Connected pickup,” Franco added. available in the coming months edging up to 15.8 The confidence survey is based on a repre- percent from 15.4 percent last month. If you travel for business, you need a subscription to wwd.com. sentative sample of 5,000 households conducted Consumers expecting fewer jobs edged up to Access the current issue of Women’s Wear Daily anytime, anywhere. monthly by the Conference Board. 16.8 percent from 16.4 percent in June. For more information, visit wwd.com. “Too much of a good thing is even better.” Mae West

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REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 Mae West is not associated with, and does not endorse or support, the MAGIC event. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM Importers Scramble to Avoid Safeguard Limits By Evan Clark

WASHINGTON — Faced with new restrictions on Chinese imports, vendors and retail- ers rushed to get goods into the U.S. in the last 60 days — moving up production timeta- bles, chartering planes to beat slow-moving boats and readying warehouse space. The first leg of the race is almost over. Four of the seven categories under safe- guard quotas since May already have filled up, barring any more of those goods, such as cotton trousers, from entering the U.S. Two other categories are likely to be cut off soon and other safeguard petitions are pending. (See charts, this page.) Goods now under safeguards, which are restricted to 7.5 percent annual growth, represented $1.31 billion in imports last year. “The caps filled quickly, and a lit- tle more quickly than anticipated, and some people, including Jockey, PENDING PETITIONS had some goods caught in embargo,” said Mark Jaeger, senior vice presi- WASHINGTON — Once safeguard petitions dent and general counsel at Jockey are filed, the Committee for the International, the underwear maker Implementation of Textile Agreements has 15 based in Kenosha, Wis. working days to decide whether or not to con- Jaeger said the embargoed goods sider the request. If accepted, CITA starts a were put into a bonded warehouse public comment period that lasts 30 calendar and would be replaced by imports days and is followed by a 60-day determination MIKE CLARKE/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES Apparel importers are shipping more goods by air from other countries, such as Thai- period, which can be extended if necessary. freight, such as this Continental Airlines flight from land. Goods put in bonded ware- This is where the outstanding safeguard QUOTA FILLS ON Hong Kong International Airport, to beat embargoes. houses controlled by the U.S. petitions stand: CHINESE IMPORTS Customs Service are not counted or liquidated through the off-price channel. against quotas, but may be off- STYLE: Cotton and man-made fiber socks STYLE: Cotton knit shirts and blouses “Somebody’s going to have to pay for that loaded from ships, trucks or planes. mess,” Burke said. CITA determination by Friday. ALLOWANCE: 4.7 million dozen That a company such as Jockey, And that means manufacturers are living which has a diversified sourcing DATE FILLED: July 5 with lower profit margins to maintain good strategy and is an experienced im- STYLE: Knit fabric relationships with their retail customers, he porter, had some goods shipped by CITA determination by Saturday. STYLE: Cotton, man-made fiber underwear said. Retailers that do their own importing air and others embargoed demon- ALLOWANCE: 5.06 million dozen or are compelled to accept higher prices strates how quickly and unpre- STYLE: Other synthetic filament fabric DATE FILLED: July 5 from their vendors will have trouble passing dictably the quotas filled. CITA determination by Sunday. on the costs to customers. “There’s a cloud right now over STYLE: Cotton trousers “There’s very little price elasticity in the Chinese production,” Jaeger said. STYLE: Men’s and boy’s wool trousers ALLOWANCE: 4.34 million dozen retail industry because of the competition,” Scores of other companies CITA determination by Sunday. DATE FILLED: July 8 said Tracy Mullin, ceo of the National turned to the skies to get their Retail Federation. goods in on time. In almost every regard, large, well-fi- STYLE: Cotton and man-made fiber swimwear “We ended up having to air freight STYLE: Man-made knit shirts and blouses nanced firms are better positioned to weath- a ton of goods,” said Michael Delaney, CITA determination by Monday. ALLOWANCE: 2.84 million dozen er the risks of safeguards than smaller com- chief executive officer of Ralsey, a di- DATE FILLED: July 12 panies. Tying up credit lines with goods ei- vision of sourcing giant Li & Fung. STYLE: Cotton and man-made fiber nightwear ther shipped earlier than usual or caught in Ralsey specializes in fine-gauge CITA determination by Monday. STYLE: Man-made fiber trousers embargo may lessen a company’s ability to knit sweaters, which are included ALLOWANCE: 2.66 million dozen flow more goods though the system smoothly. under safeguard in the knit shirt STYLE: Cotton and man-made fiber skirts PERCENT FILLED: 89.3 “If the goods wind up sitting in a warehouse classification. CITA determination by Monday. someplace, it’s going to compromise credit,” “The immediate effect was a sig- STYLE: Men’s and boy’s cotton and man-made fiber shirts said Andrew Jassin, managing director of the nificant cost increase to air freight consulting firm Jassin-O’Rourke Group. STYLE: Women’s and girls’ cotton and man-made fiber woven shirts ALLOWANCE: 2.21 million dozen merchandise,” he said. There is hope that the Bush administra- CITA determination by Monday. That cost, which the company PERCENT FILLED: 80.9 tion will cut a comprehensive deal similar to absorbed, ranged from 60 cents to one the European Union and China reached $1.50 per item. STYLE: Dressing gowns and robes STYLE: Combed cotton yarn in June, which would bring more predictabil- Expressing a widely held view CITA determination by Aug. 2. ALLOWANCE: 1.45 million kilograms ity and flexibility to sourcing plans. The EU among importers, Delaney said he PERCENT FILLED: 18.1 agreement allows for 8 to 12.5 percent growth would like to see a more cooperative STYLE: Bras on 10 categories of goods through 2007 — and less confrontational stance to- CITA determination by Aug. 2. Quotas on cotton knit shirts, blouses and trousers, and ending a year earlier than the safeguard pro- ward China from the U.S. cotton and man-made fiber underwear went into effect on vision China assented to when it joined the “They’re going to be net importers STYLE: Cotton and man-made fiber sweaters May 25. The other quotas were effective May 27. Percent World Trade Organization and allowing more of everything sooner or later,” he growth than the 7.5 percent safeguard cap. CITA determination by Aug. 2. filled as of July 22. said. “We should be figuring out how However, after meetings this month, U.S. to sell them stuff, not close them off.” SOURCE: COMMERCE DEPARTMENT SOURCE: COMMERCE DEPARTMENT and Chinese negotiators reported no As much as importers see restric- progress beyond a desire to keep talking. tions on China as a hindrance, the domestic textile industry views them as a matter of “If we can reach an agreement with China like the Europeans did, it would help us survival and has vowed to keep petitioning the Bush administration for new safeguards. plan out our business for the next three years,” said Joe McConnell vice president of Domestic trade groups have requested safeguards on another $944 million in imports, strategic sourcing at Kellwood Co. which the government is reviewing. For now, importers are switching production to other countries, adjusting fabric “This has really thrown a monkey wrench in the gears for a lot of these companies contents to get around quotas and paying to warehouse goods that were brought into that thought they had gone over the final hurdle to no quotas,” said Kevin Burke, the country early. There also has been a return to outward processing arrangements, president and ceo of the American Apparel & Footwear Association. where the components of goods are made in China and put together in another re- For instance, back-to-school goods that got stuck in embargo and are set to be released gion, such as Hong Kong or Macau, which are both special administrative regions of early next year will likely be held until fall 2006 when they will be seasonally appropriate China and have their imports counted separately.

Commission, announced Friday that the provide flexibilities” for goods shipped limit for sweaters as agreed to under the until July 12, the date the EU-China EU Retailers Seek More Sweater Quota EU-China textile agreement of June 10 Textile agreement was adopted. had been reached. The agreement re- William Lakin, director general of the By John Zarocostas 2006 and to also be allowed to transfer stricted the annual growth of Chinese tex- European Apparel & Textiles Association, an additional 4 percent from categories tiles and apparel exports to the EU in 10 an umbrella group that represents 170,000 GENEVA — European Union member na- not used so much,” said Stefan Wengler, sensitive categories to between 8 and 12.5 companies and more than 2.5 million tions, under pressure from retailers, ap- managing director with the Foreign percent until the end of 2007. workers, said Euratex “very much hopes peared likely to petition the organization Trade Association of German Retailers. Under the accord, China’s sweater that there will be no additional increases” to amend with more flexible terms its deci- Wengler said in a telephone interview quota for 2005 was set at 181.5 million in sweater imports for this year. sion to cut off imports of Chinese sweaters, from Cologne that the cutoff has created units. For 2006, China has been granted a However, an Asian textile industry ex- which had reached the agreed quota “a real dramatic situation at the moment.” sweater quota of 199.7 million units, or a ecutive, who spoke on condition of level for 2005, industry executives said. “There’s at least 6 to 7 million units growth of 10 percent. anonymity, said European retailers who Countries from the 25-nation group pending in the price range of 10 to 15 A spokeswoman for EU Trade Comm- didn’t know the quota agreement was are to ask “for an additional 5 percent to euros,” he said. issioner Peter Mandelson said the com- coming “and had it slammed on them be taken from the quota level agreed for The EU’s executive arm, the European mission was “still exploring for ways to deserve to be given some flexibility.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 5 WWD.COM

cent of sales. Also, Cartier launched candles last year. Cartier scents are carried in about 275 doors in the U.S. and Canada, a market that accounts for between 25 Cartier to Customize Scents and 30 percent of Cartier’s fragrance business worldwide. Industry sources estimate Cartier fragrances gener- By Matthew W. Evans “It’s different, the way we do fragrance,” said ate about $35 million in retail sales in the U.S., where Anthony Ledru, assistant vice president overseeing ac- the scents are carried at Saks Fifth Avenue; Neiman NEW YORK — There are high-end fragrances — and cessories, fragrance and eyewear for Cartier. “We try to Marcus; , which began carrying the then there’s a bespoke fragrance project Cartier plans keep [momentum] year after year — not launch one scent two months ago; Nordstrom, and Sephora USA. to commence when its 106-year-old store at 13 Rue de la men’s and one women’s fragrance each year,” he said. “Our strategy is not to have 500 doors,” Ledru said of the Paix reopens in Paris this December. “We believe in long-term bestsellers.” firm’s wholesale fragrance business in the U.S. “We want to The price tag for the limited-edition Ledru, a 32-year-old France native, expand space within existing doors [and] maximize selling fragrance is about 60,000 euros, or BEAUTY BEAT has overseen Cartier fragrances for the per door, rather than expand the number of doors.” $72,320 at current exchange rates, ac- past year — since the Compagnie When it comes to company-owned space, Cartier has cording to people close to the situation. The exact size of Financière Richemont-owned firm merged its fragrance, 31 boutiques in the U.S., where, in total, the company has the bottle, which will be presented in a Baccarat crystal accessories and eyewear businesses. He joined Cartier 10 estimated sales of $600 million. It also has a store in box, has yet to be determined. Industry sources project years ago as a regional manager for the company’s eye- Vancouver and another in Toronto. Cartier’s most recent that 100 of the bottles could be sold, to the tune of 6 mil- wear business in Argentina and Brazil. store opening was in Beverly Hills in May, marking its lion euros, or $7.2 million, in retail sales. Cartier’s most recent fragrance launch was the fall 25th anniversary in that city. Store renovations are To herald the start of this fragrance venture, 2003 entry, Le Baiser du Dragon, a women’s scent Ledru planned for Madison Avenue; Chicago; Atlanta; Naples, Cartier’s fragrancer for the project, Mathilde Laurent, called a “pillar” of the firm’s fragrance portfolio. Industry Fla., and Chevy Chase, Md. Worldwide, there are 1,000 to will hold consultations with customers, during which sources estimate the scent has generated $8 million in the 1,200 Cartier fragrance doors. she will custom blend essential oils to create scents that U.S. to date. It’s one of seven scents Cartier actively mar- Ledru hinted at future plans for a Cartier women’s will only be available at Rue de la Paix. kets. ’s side of the business generates 60 per- scent, which could launch as early as February. Fashion Scoops POWER HITTERS: Henry Kissinger, utility infielder? Not quite. Utility statesman, sure, but Dr. K may not be quite ready to field fungoes with his new buddy, New York Yankees star Alex Rodriguez. He did, however, display an encyclopedic knowledge of the sport. Kissinger and A-Rod joined Oscar and Annette de la Renta for lunch at the Four Seasons on Tuesday, where baseball dominated the conversation at the much-noticed table. July 31-August 2, 2005 Alex Javits Center, Manhattan Rodriguez

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PHOTO BY RALPH NOTARO/GETTY IMAGES NOTARO/GETTY RALPH PHOTO BY     “Alex and I have been friends for     some time — we both come from     the same country,” de la Renta said. !" """ # “Alex was unbelievably impressed by how much Dr. Kissinger knew about the game, and Alex asked him a lot of questions about politics and the work he is doing now. We had a great time.” While the high-powered lunch spot is used to dignitaries such as Kissinger and designers such as de la Renta, the presence of A-Rod added a certain electric sizzle to the room. “Everybody was asking what Henry Kissinger was doing with A- Rod,” said Julian Niccolini, co-owner of the Four Seasons. “I kept on saying he must be taking baseball lessons. Oscar has a tremendous ability to bring people together.” Also GETTING DESPERATE: Move over, Sarah Jessica and Kimora Lee. Coty’s Shop... next celebrity scent will capitalize on the star power of not one, but five personalities. The beauty giant is said to be working on a fragrance inspired by the hit ABC television series, “Desperate Housewives,” which features five main characters played by actresses , Eva Longoria, Felicity Huffman, Marcia $% S Cross and Nicollette Sheridan. While no particulars have been released, sources say it will most likely be a single scent inspired by the show in general — and not an eau for each character — perhaps an effort on AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan and FAME Coty’s part to keep any power are properties of Business Journals, Inc. struggles between the notoriously competitive cast to a minimum. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005

Special Delivery NEW YORK — Why should a girl wait for her birthday to get a beautiful bouquet? Designers are trying their hands at floral arranging for pre-spring, pairing whimsical floral frocks with candy-colored necklaces.

Fray’s silk top. Seventh Sense necklace. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Yigal Azrouël’s Cynthia Steffe’s silk dress with silk dress and shell beading. skirt. Jan Rich and Yvette Fry necklaces; Nancy Geist shoes.

Tracy Reese’s silk dress. Rachel Leigh necklace; Christian Louboutin shoes. STYLED BY FRANK DE JESUS

Silk dress by Nicole Miller Signature. Seventh Sense necklace; Nancy Geist shoes. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: KAREN EYDIE/NEW YORK MODELS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SARA GLICK/BENEFIT COSMETICS; FASHION JULIA ASSISTANT: COLLIER; 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM Australian Wool Industry in Two-Sided Tangle

Australian sheep have been bred to have more wrinkles to produce more wool. PHOTO BY IMAGEBANK/GETTY IMAGES; SINGLE SHEEP BY AUSTRALIAN PICTURE LIBRARY

By Ross Tucker your product, yet here we are telling the chief executive officer Peter Boneparth ers who have agreed to the boycott don’t world that we have a problem with our why Jones Apparel was not doing more to sell much merino wool-based clothing, “but NEW YORK — Australia’s wool industry wool,” Martin Oppenheimer, AWGA vice influence the Australian wool industry. they’re proving fashionable clothing does- is stepping up efforts to defuse the ef- chairman, said in the statement. “This is Boneparth noted the wool industry had n’t have to come from mutilated animals.” fects of a People for the Ethical Treat- naïveté at the very least, arrogance at its vowed to institute a new practice by 2010 Rice also asserts that flystrike is a ment of Animals-led boycott that has worst, by our leaders, and we would seek and that Jones was working to make that problem of the Australian wool industry’s gained momentum in the last year. an urgent reevaluation of any more ex- happen sooner than later. Rice got a sim- own making, with sheep being bred to be A coalition of wool and agricultural or- penditure of this kind.” ilar response from Paul Charron, chair- more wrinkly and thus more profitable. ganizations started publicly addressing PETA’s efforts could have a significant man and ceo of Inc., during “They should breed for smooth-skin the biggest issue, a practice called impact on not only Australia’s economy, the company’s annual meeting the day sheep that are better suited for the mulesing, in a series of advertisements but the apparel industry, as well. after Jones’ gathering. Australian climate,” Rice said. that began appearing in trade and fash- Australia is one of the largest producers Claiborne has thrown a bit more of its Reversing hundreds of years of ion magazines, including WWD, in May. of wool in the world, with 106 million corporate muscle behind the issue. The breeding won’t happen quickly. In the While the ad campaign helps explain the sheep producing more than 1.05 billion company’s general counsel, Roberta meantime, PETA believes that there are issue to consumers, groups such as pounds of wool in 2004, according to data Karp, sent a letter to Les Targ, deputy ceo alternatives the industry has failed to Australian Wool Innovation, a research from AWI. Wool exports were $2.8 billion of AWI, days before the annual meeting, implement. and development company representing in 2004, representing 2.5 percent of prodding the group to quicken its AWI announced it had completed the the country’s wool industry, have been Australia’s total exports. Only beef and timetable to end mulesing. first successful trials of a needle-free in- meeting with retail and manufacturing jection system for a “natural mulesing executives in an effort to convey a full un- protein” in June. The process is said to derstanding of the industry’s practices. Many companies and trade groups have, in our be painless and achieves the same bene- Mulesing was among the key issues “ fits as surgical mulesing. AWI doctors PETA cited when the animal rights group view, prematurely agreed to boycott or limit their and researchers have said that the final kicked off its campaign against Australian- product could be introduced as an alter- grown merino wool in October 2004. use of Australian wool. We do not feel that an native by 2007. Mulesing is used by Australian farm- AWI and the AWGA have gone their ers to prevent sheep from being infested immediate boycott is the appropriate response. separate ways in dealing with PETA, as with the larvae of an Australian blowfly ” well. AWI has pursued legal action called the Lucilia cuprina, which lays its — Roberta Karp, Liz Claiborne against PETA, a move the AWGA believes eggs in the damp wool around the sheep’s is long, costly and unlikely to reach a anus and genitals. Unlike other fly larvae, wheat outpaced wool as the country’s top “We acknowledge Australian Wool beneficial conclusion. Lucilia cuprina maggots burrow into the agricultural exports. When it comes to Innovation’s commitment to end mulesing The AWGA held two days of what skin and devour healthy flesh, a condition apparel, Australian wool accounts for al- by 2010; however, as we understand it, the PETA characterized as “cordial and called flystrike that may cause the death most 50 percent of the global total. Australian wool industry has shown little frank talks” in New York in June. While of the animal. To prevent flystrike, farm- With its campaign less than a year old, inclination to rapidly pursue the develop- no agreement was reached between the ers remove the skin from around the PETA said it has gained a substantial list ment of such a viable alternative,” the let- two groups, the AWGA said the meetings area. The wound scabs and, once healed, of allies from the apparel industry. ter said. Claiborne went on to “strongly were “extremely positive.” leaves scar tissue that is thicker and re- According to PETA’s campaign Web site, urge” the Australian wool industry to Stuart McCullough, a product com- sistant to flystrike. savethesheep.com, American Eagle adopt an alternative by no later than the mercialization manager with AWI, said The wool industry’s ads argue that Outfitters publicly agreed to join the boy- first quarter of 2007. his organization is no longer trying to mulesing is necessary and that a boycott cott in May, joining a list that includes Claiborne didn’t say that it would join work with PETA. would hurt the animals, and the global Abercrombie & Fitch, J. Crew, Timber- the boycott in the near future. Most recently, the AWGA issued an in- wool supply. land, Limited Brands and Indigenous “Many companies and trade groups dustry scorecard on mulesing. According “It is estimated that, without Designs. However, the Australian Wool have, in our view, prematurely agreed to to the statement, released July 12, a post- mulesing, up to 3 million Australian and Sheep Industry Taskforce released a boycott or limit their use of Australian mulesing pain-relief treatment, an anaes- sheep would die a slow and agonizing statement in May that said industry offi- wool,” the letter said. “We do not feel thetic spray, is being registered and is death each year,” the ads say. cials had spoken with Timberland and J. that an immediate boycott is the appro- slated for introduction this year. The The campaign makes no mention of a Crew and both indicated that they were priate response.” AWI’s nonsurgical mulesing injection self-imposed 2010 deadline to institute not joining the boycott. A Timberland However, the company said it would will hopefully be ready for widespread an alternative treatment. spokeswoman said the company does not join the boycott if it did not see “docu- use by 2007, followed by the complete The ads have also created a rift within support boycotts. The other named retail- mented progress within the time frame.” abolition of surgical mulesing in 2010. the industry. The Australian Wool Growers ers declined to comment. “It’s become a retailer-led movement “The best combat is education and Association opposed the AWI-led advertis- PETA is keeping the pressure on the to end the practice,” said Rice, noting communication,” McCullough said. ing campaign in a statement released in apparel industry’s biggest vendors, as that PETA representatives also attended “We’ve got to really be apprising the re- June, calling the effort “another disaster” well. On May 18, Matthew Rice, a PETA the annual shareholder meetings for tailers of our practices, the staging be- that would fail to sway the retail sector. campaign coordinator, attended the an- Nordstrom, Limited Brands, American tween now and 2010 of a mulesing alter- “Any elementary marketing textbook nual shareholders meeting for Jones Eagle and Talbots. native and the amount of research we’re will tell you to promote the positives of Apparel Group and asked president and Rice conceded that some of the retail- putting into this.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 9 WWD.COM

magazine’s tag line, back in New York next month for international travel. “Since “quintessential style,” sums up what’s sure to be a jealousy- 9/11, it’s been much harder,” the types of pieces that will be inducing visit. — Sara James she explained. When her green- MEMO PAD featured in its fashion card application stalled almost spreads, he said: “Stuff that GETTING CARDED: Filipa Fino four years ago, “I ended up MIRABELLA ON JANE: Want to can be in your wardrobe and started her new job as Vogue’s going on an O visa, which is for know what it feels like to give stay in your wardrobe that senior accessories editor on outstanding talent,” she said. up the reins of a magazine that you’ll use from now until you’re Monday. But that’s not why “It’s what they give movie stars bears your name, as Jane Pratt probably 60.” — J.B. she’s smiling. After living in the and models.” will be doing eight weeks from U.S. for 15 years, the Clearly, the status of fashion now? There aren’t very many TRUMAN’S WALKABOUT: James Portuguese native has finally editors is rising in the world. people who could tell you, but Truman has virtually disappeared secured a green card. “The day “I’ve been talking about Grace Mirabella is one of them. since he resigned as editorial I went to interview with Anna doing a green-card party,” Fino After being deposed from Vogue director of Condé Nast at the [Wintour], my lawyer called,” said of her celebration plans, in 1988 in favor of Anna beginning of the year. But he Fino said. “It’s honestly as big “for all the people who’ve Wintour, she was hired by Rupert hasn’t fallen off the face of the as going to Vogue” — because listened to my stories through Murdoch to start Mirabella, earth, he’s just been on the other James for the past decade-and-a-half, the years, listened to me get positioned as a smart read for side of it. Truman is said to have Truman Fino has had to renew her visa stuck in Mexico, listened to me older women. By 1993, she had spent some time in Valencia, every four years, a process that get stuck in Texas, listened to been effectively stripped of Spain, before traveling has kept her beholden to the all of my dramas.” (Vogue, like creative control, and in 1995 extensively in Morocco. in touch with him, he is enjoying employers sponsoring her and WWD, is part of Advance the title folded (only to be According to those who’ve kept his new life and is expected even caused a few snags during Publications Inc.) — S.J.

revived by Hachette and folded again.) So how does it feel to see your name on a magazine that you didn’t edit? “Not wonderful,” Mirabella said. “As a matter of fact, not good at all.” For one thing, she said, no matter how radically your successor transforms the magazine, readers will continue to associate it with you. “They think whoever’s name is on it is playing a big role: If your name is there, you must be there.” Then, she added, there are all the well-meaning friends who want to sympathize with you about what the magazine has become. Mirabella said it was Est. ’01 probably for the best that Pratt will be making a more-or-less clean break with Jane rather than sticking around, as she did. She described the fate of July 31-August 2, 2005 figurehead editors who overstay their welcome: Javits Center, Manhattan “Nobody really cares [what you think] as they go on about their business, and you’re there as what’s called a consultant, who is not somebody that anybody consults with.” — Jeff Bercovici

Q’D UP: Fashion changes; that’s what makes it fashion. But there’s something to be said for clothing that looks good year after year. That’s the focus of Q, a new quarterly fashion title Also launching this week as a spin-off of Quest. Describing Shop... the mission of the magazine, whose circulation of 140,000 will include all Sun-Mon 9-6, Tue 9-5 • Buyer 203-853-6015, x 116 • Exhibiting 212-686-4412 • www.fameshows.com 75,000 Quest subscribers, Shop over 700+ Lines of Immediate Fall/Winter 2005 and Holiday/Resort 2005-06 RTW and Accessories publisher Chris Meigher AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan, and FAME are properties of Business Journals, Inc. invoked timeless icons such as Grace Kelly, Babe Paley and Coco . The 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Doneger’s Wolfe on Fashion’s Future By Marc Karimzadeh “The woman waiting in the wings is the kind of woman that we saw in Hitchcock films.” NEW YORK — From Seventies disco to Nineties mini- Wolfe praised Chanel’s fall couture collection as an malism, every decade has its defining fashions. How the indicator of fashion. It was presented in Paris earlier first decade of the 21st century will be remembered has this month and opened with 50 models in black coats not been decided, though. that opened to outfits that matched the coat linings. David Wolfe, a creative director at the Doneger “The idea of coordinated ensemble dressing is a sign Group, said fall 2006 may become the season of depar- of the times,” Wolfe said. ture after years of retrospective influences, bright col- As for colors, the future looks set to be ruled by more ors and a more-is-more mantra in fashion. Fashion will subtle tones. After seasons of brights, neutrals combined for take a turn toward a more somber mood, from neutral a richer effect and muted metallics will likely dominate. colors to “low-profile luxury” fabrics and an overall sil- Black will gain in importance again, though it has to be houette of “deluxe minimalism.” treated differently with new materials and surface textures. Wolfe outlined his theory of a seismic shift in a trend fore- “The color comeback is a fait accompli,” he said. cast presentation titled “The Big Picture — Fall ’06,” held at Denim remains a hot area, particularly at the premium Doneger Group’s Seventh Avenue offices on Tuesday. end, but Wolfe said the trend won’t last and is likely to be “It’s a very important season for several reasons,” replaced by luxury fabrics, lace and elegant, subtle prints. said Wolfe, explaining that the middle of a decade typi- “Denim’s decline has got to happen,” he said. “A lot cally yields the look that is to define the entire decade. of people with closets full of premium denim will look “Are we there yet? The change that is about to happen is for low-key luxury fabrics….Texture will add an impor- one of those benchmarks in fashion.” tant dimension.” Wolfe said fashion is about to undergo a major mood All this suggests a return to minimalism. Wolfe said change. Instead of youth-steered trends, a more sophis- fashion is about to tone down but won’t return to the ticated, age-appropriate way of dressing will prevail drab, heroin-chic aesthetic that defined much of the and replace the sexier, more flesh-exposing look. Nineties. Pointing to a grommeted coat from Prada’s fall “The youth market has become more of a subculture,” collection, Wolfe noted that studs, grommets and muted he said. “Now you can wear grown-up clothes and still stones are a signal that the glitter and excess days are be in fashion.” numbered. Wolfe amusingly highlighted this point with To that end, fashion’s “vulgar and violent” shock images of his overstyled and chintzy Connecticut home. methods will give way to more classy and classic tactics “I decorated it when I reacted to minimalism 15 of presenting and promoting fashion, from classic sepa- years ago,” he said. “It’s for sale now.” rates such as cropped jackets and fuller skirt to suits, So what will fashion’s future hold? Wolfe explained for which he noted a “surprising comeback” recently. that fashion usually “goes where the money is,” which “Shock is not new because it has been around for so explains the recent fascinations with Russia and its long,” Wolfe said, recalling how in 1976, he saw his first “Doctor Zhivago” chic, and China, which Wolfe said will punk on the King’s Road in London, not realizing the be a key factor in future consumption. look would last for so long. Retro, said Wolfe, will eventually be replaced by mod- The flesh exposure suggested by designers and em- ernism, which will be kicked off with references to the way braced by celebrities is also on the wane. Wolfe pointed to designers envisioned the future in the Sixties. If it seems Ensembles, seen here at the back as the new erogenous zone for the next few seasons like a paradox, that’s because it is. But then, that’s fashion. Chanel’s fall couture show, and this will eventually force low waistlines to rise again. “Fall ’06 will be the start of the future,” Wolfe said. “What are set for a comeback. “Let’s wave goodbye to Paris Hilton,” Wolfe said. will it bring? Let’s hope it’s something exciting and new.” PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY Pendleton Shifts Focus on Trends By Rusty Williamson

DALLAS — Pendleton Woolen Mills is attracting younger shoppers and building sales with a sharper fashion focus, while also playing up the heritage of the 142-year-old company based in Portland, Ore. The $175 million brand, founded in 1863 by Thomas Kay, an English weaver who relocated to the Oregon Territory, has long drawn consumers with its better-priced classic woolen sportswear, knits, and expansive gallery of tartan plaids and Native American prints that reached iconic status in the counterculture Sixties and are having a retail resurgence. Baby Boomers have been and remain a staple of Pendleton’s women’s divi- sion. The unit generates at least 50 percent of total company business, which also includes men’s, home and textile collections. But lately, younger women, especially those in their 20s and 30s, have been checking out Pendleton at retail, purchasing fashion items for work and week- end. Noticing the trend, Pendleton executives decided to ramp up the fashion quotient starting with the spring 2005 collection and make a concerted outreach to younger shoppers. “Last year, we noticed more younger women purchasing Pendleton and realized there was an opportunity to extend our customer base and attract a new demograph- ic of shoppers,” said Pat Fowler, women’s wear division manager. “These younger women want modern classics with fresher styling, including contoured waistlines with no elastic, more stretch, both long and short skirts, three-quarter- sleeve jack- ets, fashion tops and knits, luxe fabrics such as leather and suede, and lots of color, which for fall includes pumpkin, chartreuse, fern green, persimmon and gray.” Fowler said Pendleton’s mills have developed a new stretch fabric that is being incorporated into the collections to give more shape and contour. “We’re taking a fresh and updated approach with classic Pendleton styles, such as exploding our signature plaids on 22-inch skirts shown in fashion colors,” she said. “It’s a new approach to modern classics to reach more women, and it’s paying off with double-digit sales increases both at wholesale and at retail, in our catalogues and on our newly designed Web site that reflects the more youthful changes, at pendleton-usa.com.” Pendleton sells to about 400 better specialty and department stores such as Dillard’s in Little Rock, Ark., and Von Maur in Des Moines, Iowa, and also has 70 company-owned stores. For fall, wholesale prices are $26 for a Lycra spandex knit top to $208 for a lined jacket. Styles include a red suede jacket over a long Navajo-print wool skirt, a slim gray pantsuit with embroidered sleeves and purple paisley scarf, pink embroidered shirt and matching jacket over Pendleton Woolen Mills’ latest line indigo denim jeans, and lots of plaids and leathers. includes more trendy items for the “The new fashion approach is designed to appeal to both our established customer base and Baby Boomer shopper. also those new to the Pendleton brand by addressing different lifestyle needs, from dressy to re- laxed,” Fowler said. “We’re going for a balance to meet the needs of the next generation of Pendleton shoppers.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 11 WWD.COM Marketing Why Fashion Keeps Bottling Celebrity Pop

By Valerie Seckler Nicole NEW YORK — Celebrities are the thread tying together American Kidman pop culture and, as such, provide a platform for fashion marketers that should keep gaining ground at least until the turn of the decade. That’s largely because the fragmentation of media has all but elimi- nated Americans’ once universal experience of taking in events through three major TV networks and a handful of major print outlets. “A mere generation ago you had the ‘Tonight’ show, a couple of gos- sip magazines and that was it,” said Robert J. Thompson, trustee pro- fessor of TV and popular culture at Syracuse University. “Now there are dozens of shows, like ‘Access Hollywood’ and ‘Entertainment Tonight,’ and an enormous publishing empire. Today, celebrities them- selves are the remaining glue. This is hard to harness for advertisers. “One of the only effective ways to do this,” Thompson added, “is to sign a celebrity to endorse fashion.” The public’s desire to own a piece of celebrity style dovetails with the craving of many people for more authenticity in their lives, as entertainers are known partly for the way they appear and are often seen as ideals. So, the fashion products celebrities promote could be viewed as something other than items merely endorsed by high-profile people serving as shills, marketing experts said. The ongoing explosion of media devoted to chronicling celebrity lifestyles — notwithstanding the public’s saturation point — is elevating the equity of the rich and famous in popular culture, Thompson explained. It ranges from heightened coverage in a new generation of magazines, such as In Touch, Life & Style Weekly, and Wenner Media’s untitled new weekly to bow next summer, to reality TV takes on , Donald Trump, and soon, Martha Stewart. In addition, the advent of digital media and technology — Internet-enabled cell phones and Blackberrys, and other gadgets — provide instant access to the Chanel No.5, advertised by , is the second-best-selling latest news of the stars and an equally quick means by which to fragrance this July, NPD Beauty found. The Tag Heuer watch endorsed share it. by Uma Thurman is one of the brand’s top 15 sellers just six months This marks a reversal of the slower, more controlled, star after the campaign broke. Here, Tag’s fall ad with Thurman. factory approach of Hollywood in the Thirties and Forties, and entertainment media in the Fifties and Sixties that were less media budget; Sharapova and Woods, 25 percent each, and intrusive in celebrities’ personal lives. Today, by comparison, Thurman, around 23 percent. Tag Heuer marketing last year even a walk in the park or trip to the store is standard fare for skewed heavily to men’s products, a segment in which 70 percent the paparazzi and gossip pages. of the budget was devoted to products getting the nod from Woods. “Marketing leverages what’s going on in society — and we Then there’s the spike in demand for Chanel No.5 that came live in a society that is celebrity obsessed,” said Alan Siegel, after a multimedia campaign featuring Nicole Kidman and chairman and chief executive officer of Siegel & Gale, a strate- Rodrigo Santoro. Sales of the fragrance in December 2004 gic branding consultant whose clients have included Polo Ralph surged 30 percent, following the TV and print ads that began in Lauren, A|X Armani Exchange, Liz Claiborne and Revlon. October and was treated like “the global premiere of a movie,” Using the images and voices of entertainers has become said Lyle Saunders, vice president of creative services at more resonant in a world where the consumer likes to connect Chanel Inc. Anecdotal reports from the Chanel sales counter, with celebrities, said brand consultant Michael Watras. Web site and toll-free phone number suggest the campaign fea- “There’s a fantasy — we almost want to live their lives,” turing 38-year-old Kidman, written, directed, and produced by he added. “Moulin Rouge” director Baz Luhrmann — with costumes by Part of that fantasy involves wanting to have more, including Karl Lagerfeld — appears to have drawn some younger cus- the possessions and lifestyles of pop culture personalities. And tomers, including teens, to the brand, Saunders said. celebrities themselves are more willing to participate in the “I think young women find Nicole Kidman an aspirational economy’s marketing machine. figure,” Saunders said. “She survived a very public divorce “It’s seen as more legitimate; people expect it’s going to and her career leaped forward after that.” happen” said Robert Passikoff, president of marketing consult- The next wave of the Kidman campaign for Chanel No.5, ant Brand Keys. part of a three-year deal with the actress, is to resume with new print ads in October The rub is that, much like fashion itself, celebrities quickly move in and out of style. and a reprise of last year’s TV spots in November. “With celebrities you’ve got to make a quick killing,” Thompson said. “They peak for Despite such successes, the use of a favored entertainer as a marketing persona a season or two and fade quickly, with few exceptions like Paul Newman and Robert does not guarantee results. Some of the highest-profile celebrity endorsers have Redford.” In that sense, he said, “Fashion and celebrities are a match made in heaven.” elicited polarized responses from marketing experts, who viewed them either as es- Kenneth Hirst, president and creative director of Hirst Pacific Ltd., whose firm pecially effective, or past their prime. has designed the bottles for the Jennifer Lopez and Celine Dion fragrances, said: It is hard to pinpoint when the appeal of even successful endorsers such as Woods, “There are probably only a handful of stars who could carry off a sustained effort to Lopez, and Kidman will tail off. Currently, Woods is associated with numerous market a particular brand or their own [self-named] venture.” brands, including fashion players Nike and Tag Heuer; Kidman’s style has been wide- Perhaps that explains why only $1.6 billion, or 2 percent, of the $95 billion-worth of ly exposed on the red carpet as well as in highly publicized celebrity gossip takes, and women’s apparel sold in the U.S. is marketed under a celebrity’s name, according to Lopez’s public franchise has extended from apparel, accessories, and fragrance to NPD Fashionworld. And despite the ever-expanding universe of star driven enter- ads for Louis Vuitton and, this fall, shop-in-shops showcasing JLo lifestyle products in prise, from P. Diddy’s plans to offer Sean John women’s apparel and fragrance, to department stores. Donald Trump’s entree into men’s wear, the longest-running celebrity names can Others questioned how well some of the most visible entertainers have comple- sometimes perform best. Case in point: Kmart’s proprietary Jaclyn Smith label, which mented recent fashion campaigns, including Versace’s use of , whose contin- remains the country’s leading women’s celebrity fashion brand, NPD Fashionworld uing reinvention could be seen as an indistinct image for the brand, and Gap’s selec- has found. tion of as its first spokesperson (since succeeded by Joss Stone Nonetheless, hot celebrities can bring ready-made images to marketers who would and eight other musical artists) as she is readily associated with the designer labels otherwise spend years forging a distinctive identity. “Celebrity-marketed brands can she flaunted on “,” notably Prada and Manolo Blahnik. become almost an overnight success,” Hirst said. “Designers like and Until marketers find a more effective way to differentiate brands the celebrity jug- Michael Kors spent years to create an identity.” For instance, Hirst said, Paris Hilton gernaut is likely to continue — even though, as Passikoff pointed out, “there are more quickly moved from the notoriety of a “naughty video” to a personality associated failures than tremendous successes, as most brands that are celebrity based have with the Guess brand. “Who would have thought?” he said. very short lives.” It can be tough to determine how much of a brand’s sales and profit are due to a Helping to maintain the momentum, marketing experts said, will be fashion’s move celebrity marketing effort, but when such a brand is flourishing, the chances are the from the fringe of pop culture, closer to the center of the action. “One of the biggest campaign has made some impact. shifts is the democratization of style,” said Raul Martinez, chief executive officer of Tag Heuer found success with its first endorser, Tiger Woods, which led brand ex- ad agency AR. “Fashion is no longer seen as elitist. Since high society no longer holds ecutives to add Uma Thurman, Maria Sharapova and NASCAR star Jeff Gordon to its our interest like it did in the Fifties and Sixties, people are more inclined to turn to marketing roster this year. The Tag Heuer watch endorsed by Woods became the Hollywood for that drama.” brand’s second-best-selling chronograph in 2003, while the $4,000, diamond-dial style Many expect the celebrity marketing craze to stay hot for at least five more years. hawked by Thurman has moved into the top 15 sellers in six months, said Daniel That said, it could quickly move into eye-rolling territory for those who have seen one Lalonde, president and chief executive officer of LVMH Watch and Jewelry North too many stars apparently too ready to embrace a new product. “We are quickly ap- America. The Tag Heuer brand offers 250 watches. proaching saturation in both broadcast and print ads, and celebrities are marketing With the campaign that began in February, virtually all of Tag Heuer’s marketing is themselves,” maintained Mike Cucka, partner in Group 1066, a product and market- celebrity-driven. Endorsements by Gordon command about 27 percent of the brand’s ing consultancy. “The question becomes who’s pursuing whom?” 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM

The Steinmetz The Glow Show Pink By Samantha Conti was the target of a botched theft from London’s Millennium Dome in 2000. By contrast, there’s the LONDON — The Natural History Museum here is 616, a 616-carat diamond crystal that remains showing all facets of the diamond, the glitter and uncut — and has a spooky inner glow. the grit, in a major exhibition that features some of The show also traces the history of diamond the world’s most precious gems. jewelry from the Roman Empire to the present, “We were fascinated by the material side of the di- and all of the lightning-bright moments in be- amond — after all, it’s just carbon — and why it has tween. such glamour and cachet,’’ said Sharon Ament, direc- There are Indian Mogul treasures, including tor of public engagements at the museum, where the turban ornaments made from table-cut diamonds show runs until Feb. 26. “After all, we humans and The Spanish Inquisition Necklace, with its 374 are mostly carbon, too, and no one makes diamonds and antique cut emeralds. A 17th- that much of a fuss over us.” century piece, the necklace is thought to “Diamonds: The World’s Most have been worn by Spanish royalty and Dazzling Exhibition,’’ sets out to members of the French court. balance the regal glamour of the Arts There are diamond shoe buckles worn stones with the realities of their by the King of Poland in the 18th century; origins in the crater-like mines the ruby and diamond Garter Star worn of Botswana, the rivers of the by King George III and later Queen Congo, or the wilds of the & Victoria; and a grand, Fabergé tiara with Brazilian countryside. brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamonds. The De Beers Group, which sells People There is also a diamond ring given by three-fifths of the world’s rough dia- King George III to his wife, Queen Charlotte. monds, and The Steinmetz Diamond The diamond display ends with the spiderweb dress The Group, one of the largest global diamond manufac- and spider brooches designed by Scott Henshall for Millennium turers, are the co-sponsors and have loaned some the London premiere of “Spider-Man 2.” Star of the priceless gems in the collection, including Most of the jewelry is on loan from private col- the Steinmetz Pink, the world’s largest fancy vivid lections, including that of Queen Elizabeth, and pink, flawless diamond. museums such as London’s Victoria & Albert, the The show features some of the biggest colored Smithsonian Institution and the Rijksmuseum in rocks ever found. They’re suspended in a series of Amsterdam. black cases, and are so bright a spectator has to Interspersed with all of the glitter are displays blink or look away after a few seconds. and explanations of how diamonds are discovered, The show opens with the 59.6-carat Steinmetz mined, cut and polished. Another section shows Pink, which took almost two years to cut out of its how diamonds are manipulated and used in indus- rough crystal shell. The diamond, which is the size try — for surgical and laboratory instruments or of a small fist, is priceless because it is unique. for windows in chemical manufacturing plants, The museum would not reveal the values of any and on guided missiles. diamonds or diamond jewelry because of insur- The show, which opened the day after the July 7 ance issues. terrorist attacks, has already attracted thousands Ament said the Steinmetz Pink is by far the of visitors, although school groups have canceled most popular stone with museum-goers. “It’s unex- tours because of the risks associated with riding pected. I don’t think most people realize there are on the London Underground. colored stones out there,” she said. Over the next seven months, the show will be In that same lineup is the 5.11-carat Moussaief tweaked with new objects and displays to coincide Red, one of the rarest diamonds in the world. with events such as London Fashion Week and the There’s something eerie and unnatural looking winter holidays. about the claret-colored stone — even the Nir Livnat, chief executive officer of Steinmetz, Gemological Institute of America said it had never said it was the right time to display the rocks. graded such a diamond before. “Since Sept. 11, there’s been an increase in There’s also the 27.64-carat Heart of Eternity, a marriages and diamond jewelry sold,’’ he said at brilliant blue diamond from South Africa and The the opening party. “There has also been an in- Ocean Dream, a 5.51-carat fancy, deep blue-green crease in demand for diamond jewelry in places stone that got its color from exposure to high-ener- like China and India, and a general hunger to gy radiation over thousands of years. know about diamonds and their origins. The Millennium Star, the largest, flawless pear- “We really wanted an international forum to shaped diamond known to exist, is also part of the show these diamonds — and we wanted to share show. The stone, which weighs in at 203.04 carats, the most rare ones with the public.” Bringing Hans Christian Andersen’s Fables to Life NEW YORK — As far as musicalized versions of the life of Hans ally responded to the storyteller’s bleak, Gothic sense of humor Christian Andersen go, the 1952 film “Hans Christian Andersen,” (something absent from Loesser’s version). starring Danny Kaye as the inimitable Danish storyteller and di- “It’s right up my alley,” he said. “Most of these stories are about chil- rected by Charles Vidor, is pretty indelible, if completely fabricated. dren dying in horrible ways. The little matchstick girl freezes to death And Frank Loesser’s songs — “Inchworm,” “The Ugly Duckling” so she won’t have to go home to see her father. That’s the end, oh well.” and “Thumbelina” — remain as sweet and poignant as ever. Not, The script, which Merritt conceded doesn’t make much sense, is ba- however, in Stephin Merritt’s opinion. sically a collage of 180 fairy tales with no attempt to tie them together. “It’s not Loesser’s best work,” he said, in between rehearsals for “It’s like putting the complete Andersen into a paper shredder,” “My Life As a Fairy Tale,” his Hans Christian Andersen musical, he said. Each song is a stand-alone condensation of a story. Though which opens tonight as part of the Lincoln Center Festival and plays writing a number can take the composer anywhere from two minutes through Saturday. Chen Shi-Zheng is directing; Blair Brown, Mia to 15 years — “I’ve written songs in less time than it takes to play Maestro and Fiona Shaw star, and Merritt wrote the music and lyrics. them” — this project wasn’t easy. “I don’t think any of these took me “I’ve never been able to watch the movie all the way through,” less than four days to write.” Merritt said. “I have a Danny Kaye problem, though. It’s sort of an But, at least, he didn’t have to make any concessions to narrative. allergy. But it particularly bothers me that they pronounce “This is definitely not a musical comedy as we’ve come to know Copenhagen [Copen-haygen] Copenhagen [Copen-hahgen]. it,’’ Merritt said. “It’s more like one of those tributes to one of those “There’s no danger of us creating anything like that,” Merritt rock stars, where the songs are oblivious to the plot.” said. “Where Loesser has ‘Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen,’ we All in all, it’s been a positive experience for the composer, as diffi- Stephin Merritt

have ‘Odious Odessa.’ It’s a joke, but it appears only at the end, so GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY cult as that can be for him to admit. First there’s been the delight of it gets it out of the way.” watching Blair Brown rehearse wearing frog feet, which she dons for the last third Merritt is the oft-depressed, much aloof creative force behind the cult band The of the show. And then there’s the opportunity of exploring new musical styles. Magnetic Fields. This new piece was commissioned by the Danish National Theater “One of the instruments we’re using is the bassoon,” Merritt said. “I’ve fallen for the Hans Christian Andersen Bicentennial in Denmark, but, alas, Merritt had head over heels in love with the bassoon.” never read any Andersen. Making his way through an omnibus, he found that he re- — Marshall Heyman WWD The Magazine

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Continued from page one At Macy’s East, From Saks Fifth Avenue, Federated Department Stores Inc. taking over May Anna Sui lace Cassin fox vest, $1,195; Department Stores Co. and Saks Inc. selling off depart- overlay dress with Joystick cashmere ment stores. velvet tie, $409. sweater, $282; Gunex High oil and gasoline prices, terrorism and concerns Below: Allen B. by corduroy pants, $375. about job stability have coalesced, triggering declining Allen Schwartz consumer confidence last month. cami top, $228, Nonetheless, holiday assortments are planned, press with beaded previews are under way and merchandise will start jeans, $328. pouring onto the selling floors in mid-October. The big- ger push will be in November with pre-holiday sales, though The Neiman Marcus Group launches its over-the- top, ultraexclusive Christmas catalogue in September. At many stores, last year’s explosion of color, cash- mere, denim and luxe has been reined in and refined — it’s about a fusion of luxe looks with casual; lifestyle items; velvets; metallics; quirky, fun accessories with a lot of shine, gold and bronze, and a return to black dresses. Retailers selling fashion are not anticipating huge hol- iday gains — several see low- to midsingle-digit comp- store growth. However, they are hoping for decent busi- ness, largely because of progress attaining more sophisti- cated and differentiated styles, and trends suggesting con- sumers are more willing to spend on apparel and acces- sories, having already bought their iPods and computers. Christine Augustine, retail analyst, Bear, Stearns, said she was “cautiously optimist” about holiday and noted that Wal-Mart has been working to improve appar- el and electronics, which could see a lift this year after flopping last holiday, while seasonal bedding, pet sup- plies, domestics and paper goods did well. Augustine foresees fewer tactical errors on the market- ing side at Wal-Mart, including a return to product-focused advertising, and fewer image campaigns, with hipper ad spots broadcast on the coasts and more tradi- tional ads for the Midwest and the South. Wal-Mart went soft in price promoting after Thanksgiving last year, and suffered as a consequence. The $285 billion company has launched a public relations counteroffensive after coming under attack for its levels of employee benefits and other issues. And it is fighting the percep- tion that its chief rival, Target Corp., is hipper and more fashion focused. Target, Lewis, president of the strategic consulting skins and fancy flip-flops demonstrate retailers are will- Augustine said, did well in jewelry and ac- firm bearing his name. “Target can feed off a ing to get fun and quirky with unusual silhouettes and cessories last year, though apparel was not higher income group.” He added that Wal- fabric mixes that don’t reach too far for fashion flair. a standout and could come back stronger Mart’s apparel upgrades may not kick in soon The season also will feature logos with a bit of flash, in apparel and electronics, as well. enough for the chain to benefit this holiday. and velvets. Metallic tones, particularly gold and China’s 2.1 percent revaluation of its One department store chief executive, bronze, and unusual sizes and silhouettes permeate ac- currency last week and the decision to peg who asked not to be identified, suggested cessories. More than ever, retailers are hyping exclusive the yuan to a basket of currencies rather holiday comps for the sector would be in the looks they say hold the key to a successful season. than the dollar isn’t expected to have a low-single-digit range, at 2 or 3 percent. “It’s about fusion — logos with fur, activewear with major impact on the season. Andrew Jennings, president of Saks Fifth luxe, denim with embellishments, velvet jackets with For Saks Inc., criminal and civil investi- Avenue, was less specific, projecting single- lace camisoles — and taking one lifestyle and blending it gations into its chargeback and accounting digit gains. “We’re put in a lot more prepa- with another,” said Nicole Fischelis, vice president and practices loom large. ration” than last year, Jennings said. “We fashion director for ready-to-wear, Macy’s East. “There Gap Inc. is struggling with poor sales are feeling positive about the season.” are two sides to it: a casual attitude in a very luxe way.” trends and has been criticized for missing Total sales growth for the nation is ex- Fischelis, a native Parisian, characterized the sea- trends and lackluster merchandise. Its re- pected to fall short of last year for the son’s mood as “après-ski” and showed off items to ex- covery plan involves renovating stores, shift- fourth quarter, but not by much. “We are pre- plain the look, including cableknit sweaters, cashmere ing from its historical emphasis on sports- dicting about a 5 percent growth in total sales, sweaters and snug winter white quilted jackets. wear by adding space for petites, acces- which is good,” said Tracy Mullin, president “It’s about casual opulence,” said Stephanie Solomon, sories, jewelry and personal care, and this and ceo of the National Retail Federation, Bloomingdale’s operating vice president and fashion di- fall launching another division, called Forth which hasn’t yet forecast specifically for the rector, women’s rtw. She cited the use of velvet in & Towne, to capture an older demographic. holiday season. For holiday ’04, there was 7 women’s and men’s wear, rich colors and beadwork and, “I see no reason why the consumer percent growth,” Mullin said. like other retailers, also suggested that the program for won’t be strong for holiday, given the 3 per- “We are bullish on apparel and acces- Christmas is different, but not a complete abandonment cent growth in real disposable income we sories,” Mullin added. “We think it will per- of last year’s offerings. Cashmeres, denim, brights and are seeing right now and provided the form well through the year. Retailers are shine will still command a good chunk of floor space. housing market hangs in with 2 percent making a very concerted effort to differenti- “The subtle, shrunken velvet jacket is a must have,’’ real interest rates for mortgages,” said Bob ate merchandise and look different from Solomon said. “It works with your favorite jeans. It Buchanan, senior retailing analyst, A.G. competitors. It’s beginning to pay off.” Back- works over anything. We also love velvet in dresses and Edwards. “I’m thinking 4 to 5 percent to-school apparel, so far, has performed accessories, and the proliferation of beadwork on knits comp-store gains for Christmas. It will be a well, she added, though total numbers on and tops. There’s a more neutral color palette, which very respectable Christmas. apparel are pretty much flat with a year ago. makes the beadwork more discreet.” “However, I certainly would not want to “I don’t think it looks bad at all.” She also said embellished jeans, while important to be at the low end. Stores such as Wal-Mart, For retailing overall, the gift card trend the presentation again this year, have shifted to a more Family Dollar and Dollar General will con- keeps evolving, pushing more business into tinue to struggle due to high gas prices and January, and online is an ever-increasing the continued migration of factory jobs to part of the picture, cannibalizing some Holiday ’05 Trends the Pacific Rim,” he continued. For stores comp business but pushing up total sales. ● Velvets and cashmeres. ranging from J.C. Penney Co. Inc. to Kohl’s Holiday 2005 will be about outfits that ● Sophisticated, embellished denims. Corp. and up to Neiman Marcus, there’s a mix luxe appeal with casual items, such as ● Outfits with a fusion or casual luxe appeal. more favorable outlook, Buchanan said. fancy velvet evening tops and fur shrugs that ● Trapper hats. “Wal-Mart really does get affected by gas work with embellished denim jeans. Items ● Metallic tones, particularly gold and bronze. prices more than other retailers,” said Robin such as fur trapper hats, hoodies, exotic WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 15 WWD.COM y Season Challenges

From Bloomingdale’s, Also at At Bergdorf’s, Theory jersey black Bloomingdale’s, Tor y Burch dress, $390. Juicy Couture paillette Judith Leiber shrunken velvet sweater, snowflake bag, blazer, $350; $1198. $2,995. BCBG ruffled Isaac Mizrahi blouse, $108; trapper hat, Seven For All $295. Mankind jeans, $295.

subdued look with embroidery and studs, rather than from brands such as Cassin. “It’s not the basic trapper,’’ shiny beads. However, “there is nothing sleeker than a said spokeswoman Leslie Langsam. “It’s a functional little black dress. It’s back in fashion.” trapper or baseball caps with fur ears. There’s a little Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion direc- glitz and a little glamour. It’s not going away.” J. Crew’s wool “Phebe” tor for Bergdorf Goodman, said, “We are seeking things Saks seeks to cash in with its Wild About Cashmere jacket,jacket, $198;$198; jeans,jeans, $125.$125. toned town. We saw a lot of color last year. This year, it’s a promotion, which commences in September and will Silk scarf, $395; Beacon lot of metallics, black, rich browns and jewel tones. We run through holiday. The store also has taken the black Street leather bag, $158. still see ornamentation, bit it is more monochromatic.” dress to a new level, for example, offering a Donna Below: At Bloomingdale’s, He said Bergdorf ’s, for the past three years, has inten- Karan cashmere sequined dress for $1,250. Fendi shearling bag, sified efforts to be recognized as a gift store, and one that At Sears, Roebuck and Co., “we believe this holiday sea- $1,795; Ugg gloves, $95; offers exclusive products in a range of prices, from a son is even more so about luxe and we will be featuring Ugg scarf, $105; Michael Darby Scott semiprecious stone handbag with metal cast- metallics, velvet, faux fur and luxe fabrics in apparel, Kors boot, $355. ing for $110,000 or an actual stuffed zebra by Deyrolle, a footwear and accessories,” said spokeswoman Lee Antonio. Parisian taxidermist, for $27,500, to private label cash- “It’s all about shine” in apparel or in jewelry, or even west- mere socks for $80, or crocodile iPod cases for $295. ern boots done in a leather bronze color. “This whole luxe J. Crew Inc. is offering a limited-edition cashmere and shine concept is being applied to everything.” cardigan with a fur-trim collar. “It reminds you of your Citing some seasonal shifts, Limited Brands Inc. re- grandfather’s sweater. It’s cozy and big,” said Margot ported: “Black is reborn in velvet, satin and lace. Brunelle, head of J. Crew marketing. For the cashmere Everything is rich in luxury, accentuated through tex- assortment overall, Brunelle said: “I like to think of it ture, jacquards, fur and embellishment. The color as a new generation of cashmere, with new silhouettes, palette includes deep, rich and saturated jewel tones of and also limited-edition items.” garnet red, vivid violets and chocolate brown. Metallics She also said J. Crew will be offering newness in are extremely important in authentic shades of muted some fabrics, including introducing tartan plaids, and gold, bronze and gunmetal.” authentic Scottish tweeds. The specialty retailer also cited “luxurious sweaters Brunelle sounded a familiar chord for the season, say- in graphics, crochet, cables or featuring pointelle ing, “You’ll see the juxtaposition of casual dressing with stitches, along with a sexy bustier worn with embel- luxury dressing, so your favorite pair of chinos, which is lished denim for the holiday party. Other key looks in- in a new, sexier fit, [is] paired with a more luxurious fitted clude silk charmeuse wrap tops paired with velvet tweed blazer and silk camisole underneath.” The compa- trousers and lacy, Victorian-inspired tops mixed with ny also has a wait list on some more exclusive items, such clean, modern trousers. as a mink purse with a chain handle for $495, shown in an Lavelle Olexa, Lord & Taylor’s senior vice president of editorial shot for Elle’s July issue, and a cardigan with a fashion merchandising, said, “We see Christmas 2005 as fur-trim collar, for $395, shown in Shop Etc. an opulent season rich in color and texture with an abun- Saks Fifth Avenue will be reviving some of the ele- dance of all kinds of embellishment: stones, sequins, ments of last year’s campaign, including the giant trims, embroidery, patchwork. In ready-to-wear and ac- snowflakes on the facade of the Fifth Avenue flagship, cessories, velvet is newly important, and metallic, espe- and the snowflake shopping bags. The company is offer- cially gold and bronze, are key,’’ she said. “Denim contin- ing more exclusives, including Neil Lane celebrity jew- ues to grow in importance, now with lots of embellish- elry featuring vintage diamond jewelry. Among the ex- ment or embroidered. Knits are strong, cardigans, clusive products exhibiting that relaxed-luxe look are camisoles, sweater jackets and, of course, lots of cash- Jimmy Choo flip-flops or Gypsy Couture wrap dresses, mere. There is also a warm and cozy trend with shear- as well as a full assortment of fur hats and fur hoodies, lings, faux and real, in outerwear, accessories and boots.” PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE, KYLE ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE, KYLE PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM ’s Other Fifth Avenue By Meredith Derby total around $1,000 a square foot on Fifth Avenue. Lexy Funk, vice president and co-founder of NEW YORK — Not too long ago, if shoppers from Brooklyn Industries, said the company was first South Brooklyn wanted fashion apparel without drawn to Fifth Avenue because of the cheap rent leaving the borough, they headed to downtown and lack of clothing stores in the area. But the Brooklyn, Seventh Avenue in Park Slope or, more brand stayed for the street’s diverse clientele, cre- recently, to Smith Street in Carroll Gardens. ative atmosphere and community feel. Now, Brooklynites have one more choice: “We were attracted to the street because it was Fifth Avenue in Park Slope. Within the past few emerging,” she said. In contrast, “Seventh Avenue years, a spate of new, unique apparel stores have was boring and tired and bourgeois. Fifth was up opened, or are planning to open, on Fifth Avenue. and coming and exciting and younger….A lot of the Aside from neighborhood stalwarts Allure, stores that have emerged there are slightly more Eidolon and Kimera — all of which opened selling cutting edge.” apparel on Fifth Avenue in the late Nineties — the Indeed, Funk has watched Fifth Avenue turn stretch from Flatbush Avenue to Seventh Street was into a destination, for shopping as well as for eat- mainly known for antique and collectible shops, ing, and she expects that the area will become and a plethora of discount stores. even more gentrified, thanks in part to rising de- But, as gentrification sweeps through the area, velopment of the area southwest of Fifth Avenue Fifth Avenue is now offering apparel and acces- called Gowanus, named for the Gowanus Canal sories from retailers such as Brooklyn Industries, that snakes through the area. Diana Kane, Serene Rose, Clothier Bklyn, Umkarna, Like many parts of Brooklyn, Fifth Avenue today Flirt, Goldy + Mac, Lucia, Slang Betty, Uppercut, is quite a change from what the slope of Prospect Beacon’s Closet and Something Else. Park looked like even 20 years ago. In the Eighties, “The last three years things went gangbusters,” Fifth Avenue was just reemerging from a period said Nancy Sorkow, vice president of the Park Slope when abandoned buildings and lots cluttered the Fifth Avenue Merchants’ Association and owner of area. Numerous apartment buildings were built the Nancy Nancy card and gift shop at 244 Fifth Av- during the late Eighties and Nineties, and now enue. “Even five years ago, it was a lot more of a Fifth Avenue is benefiting from a population that twentysomething crowd that was [living around Fifth wants convenience at its fingertips, which really Avenue] because it was cheaper to live in Brooklyn, means minus a trip into Manhattan. and then it took off to become more gentrified.” That’s what urged Doug Grater to open his third Sorkow credited Williamsburg, Brooklyn, natives Something Else location in Brooklyn on Fifth Avenue The retail-apparel Beacon’s Closet, a consignment shop, and Brooklyn at Union Street, directly across from Brooklyn scene on Fifth Avenue Industries as helping lead the retail revival on Fifth Industries. “We’re like a 7/11 to denim — we want to in Park Slope. Avenue. The two stores opened in 2002 and 2003, re- be convenient,” Grater said. “We want to be where the spectively. Brooklyn Industries, which launched its people are at. The more locations where we can get second store in a 500-square-foot site two years ago into, the more we can become a little brand in our and has since expanded to a 985-square-foot location niche of premium denim and apparel.” at 152 Fifth Avenue, has found the area impressively The new 1,100-square-foot Something Else, loyal and profitable. Sales for the private label brand which is expected to open in mid-August, will

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DONNA KARAN DOONEY & BOURKE EILEEN FISHER ELDER-BEERMAN PHOTOS BY JASMIN CURTH PHOTOS BY ELLEN TRACY FEDERATED DEPARTMENT STORES INC. FENDI FILENE’S carry branded apparel for women and men from Kenneth Cole, Triple Five Soul, Adidas and Seven For All Mankind, like its sister FINANCO INC. FREDERICK’S OF HOLLYWOOD GOODY’S GUCCI H&M stores on Smith Street in Carroll Gardens, which is four months old, and a 35-year-old flagship on 86th Street in Bensonhurst. The new HENRI BENDEL ISSEY MIYAKE J. JILL GROUP JEAN PAUL GAULTIER store should not be confused with an existing store on Fifth Avenue called Somethin’ Else that sells records and vintage clothing. JUICY COUTURE KELLWOOD CO. KENNETH COLE PRODUCTIONS When Ashley Gold, co-owner of Goldy + Mac, moved to the Fifth Avenue area two years ago, she couldn’t find moderately priced, yet LA PERLA LANDS’ END LAURA ASHLEY LAURA MERCIER LESPORTSAC trendy, apparel in the area, despite the large population of new mothers and working professionals who live there. LI & FUNG LTD. LIMITED BRANDS LIZ CLAIBORNE INC. LONGCHAMP “The shops were not representative of why we moved here,” said Gold. “And the service was not as helpful as I’d hoped.” LUCA LUCA LVMH MOSSIMO NORDSTROM PAMELA DENNIS PANTONE Already avid shoppers, but wanting a fun and feminine place to shop in their own neighborhood, Gold and co-owner Susan McInerney PINK TARTAN POLO SEAN JOHN SERGIO ROSSI STILA opened Goldy + Mac late last year. The 1,000-square-foot store carries several second lines from brands such as BCBG Max Azria, Joe’s Jeans TALBOTS TOCCA TRIPLE FIVE SOUL TRISH MCEVOY WAL-MART and Blue Cult. Other apparel lines offered at Goldy + Mac include Necessary Objects, Central Park West and Michael Stars. In addition, YVES SAINT LAURENT* the owners each design jewelry for sale at the store. For Gold, the service community that’s sprung up around Fifth Avenue reinforced her choice to open on the street. That’s partly because each apparel store on Fifth Avenue has so far stuck to its own niche and partly because of what Gold called “neighborhood camaraderie.” “People are so happy to be here, and they’re so friendly,” she said. “Everyone seems to complement one another.” $1,095,219

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*Source: VITALS Man Advance Marketing Database Profile 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 WWD.COM WWD West For St.John, the Future Is Now WEST WATCH JESSE’S OTHER GIRL: He may now be known By Rose Apodaca to most women as Mr. Sandra Bullock, but bike builder Jesse James has headed up his LOS ANGELES — The future of St. John Inc. now rests firmly on own empire, known as West Coast the shoulders of chief executive officer Richard Cohen. Choppers, for 10 years, including men’s, As Cohen’s first anniversary on the job approaches next month, women’s and kids’ apparel and accessories. the British-born executive knows there is much to be done. Next month, James will make an The resignations on Monday of St. John’s co-founder and de- appearance at his monster MAGIC booth to signer, Marie Gray, and her daughter, Kelly Gray, the creative promote a new juniors’ line of vintage- director and longtime advertising face of the luxury brand, inspired, motorcycle-culture screen-printed mark both an operational and symbolic turning point for the T-shirts and fleeces called Jesse’s Girl. Lead Irvine, Calif.-based company. designer Jen Lee’s task is to introduce Cohen has been ushering in significant measures, from feminine, chic styles in the overly switching key executives to revamping the long-formulaic ad- testosterone-charged world of cars, chrome vertising campaign, in an effort to reverse shrinking profits and motorcycles. “Girls want to feel sexy while positioning St. John as an American luxury house. and tough without being too harsh,” she “I’ve got my work cut out for me,” he said in an interview said. The tops, which retail from $40 to late Monday. $80, are already sold at Nordstrom, Fred Although sales rose 7 percent to $395.6 million in fiscal 2004 Segal, Belle Gray and Kitson. from the previous year, profits dropped to $13.4 million, accord- ing to the company’s earnings report. That is 10 percent less COURTNEY EXPANDS: Jeweler Erica Courtney than 2003 and 44 percent lower than in 2000. has opened a second door on Robertson Sales dipped 4 percent to $99.8 million for the first fiscal quar- Boulevard next to The Ivy restaurant. The ter ending Jan. 30, and profits fell 19 percent to nearly $5 million. three-room, 1,100-square foot boutique, St. John shares rose 50 cents Tuesday to $30 in over-the-counter designed by furniture and feng shui maven trading. Kim Colwell, is Louis XIV style with a touch of The falling profits appear to be largely because of remodel- midcentury modern. The one-of-a-kind ing and expansion costs for St. John’s 31 signature retail doors A St. John ad featuring Kelly Gray. handmade Swarovski crystal chandeliers were worldwide. The program to open and remodel stores has been designed by Courtney. Special areas include propelled partly by the slowing growth at department stores. A the brand has an association of being, well, more mature.” lighted mirrored vanities and a cozy sitting new retail look is set to bow in coming months, one that ap- Which brings the subject to Cohen’s immediate task. area dubbed “the man room” with a plasma- pears tied to the image of the new advertising campaign reflect- Who will step into Marie Gray’s pumps? screen television and cold Tahitian beers. The ing a defined California glamour. “I don’t know,” he said, noting that the design team, number- boutique has a soft, ethereal quality, blending While Gisele Bündchen is the first to personify this new ing about 100, is solidly in place. “What we’re doing is evaluat- Courtney’s signature pink with splashes of image in the campaign bowing in September titles, there is in- ing where we stand, then we’ll evaluate from there.” But it will coral, allowing the focus to stay on the creasing speculation — and outright talk from sources in-house be soon, he said. jewelry, most of which is one-of-a-kind and — that the company has its eye on and wallet wide open for an Considering the core customer, a devoted base if there ever unique to either the Robertson location or the A-list Hollywood celebrity to lead the brand into its next phase. was one, will be key, said Eric M. Beder, an analyst at Brean original Beverly Boulevard store. Courtney’s has been floated as the top candidate, with an Murray & Co. in New York. “The exit of those two women, jewelry, which starts at $60 retail and climbs offer said to be on the table. So, too, has Charlize Theron, who Marie and Kelly, puts the loyalty of their customers in flux with- into the hundreds of thousands, has adorned signed on last year as the face of Dior’s J’Adore. out a doubt.” celebrities including Elizabeth Taylor, Cohen declined to comment. Long known as a resource for its resilient, wrinkle-free knits Madonna, , , Uma David Lipman, whose company created the new advertising — making it a favorite of women in business and politics — Thurman and . campaign, said last week that the process to pick the next Beder echoes other industry watchers that St. John will have to model had only begun. do some soul searching if it expects to compete in the fashion BEVERLY CENTER BOSS: The Beverly Center Getting St. John on the red carpet has been a goal of the arena and attract a younger and wider consumer base. mall, located at the edge of Beverly Hills and brand, particularly Kelly Gray, well before Cohen entered the “Denim and other products have moved forward, where Hollywood, named Aj D. Jemison as its picture. There was even a nod to ghetto-fabulous when St. John knits really haven’t been as much in the fashion forefront,” general manager. Jemison brings 25 years of sent out models in HotPants and plenty of gold during its show Beder said. In some respects, even their core market — that shopping center management to her post, two years ago. But the stylists evidently did not come knocking. woman ceo — has even been finding other things to wear to most recently as general manager at Ever open to new resources, however, stylists working with work. Can they keep that core and expand it? It will be difficult, International Plaza, which opened in 2001 in celebrities indicate they’re not adverse to giving the brand a but not impossible.” Tampa, Fla. “Aj’s experience, energy and look — once the collection reflects it. He and others point to comeback stories of other luxe talent make her the perfect fit for this flagship “If it’s getting younger, then we definitely would look at it,” said brands. property of ours,” said Denise Anton, senior Estee Stanley, who, along with partner Cristina Ehrlich, styles Gucci was lame “before Tom Ford,’’ said Cameron Silver of vice president, Center Operations, Taubman Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Mandy Moore and Jessica Biel. “St. the vintage resource Decades, who also consults for Azzaro after Centers. Jemison will be responsible for day- John is beautifully made. But it’s a Ladies Who Lunch kind of line. helping resuscitate the brand among young Hollywood. “Chanel to-day operations. Most of my clients are in their 20s. They lunch in sexy tops. And was not a cool brand to wear until Lagerfeld revamped it.” BCBG Bares New Ads —Literally By Nola Sarkisian-Miller The latest campaign takes inspiration from Andy Warhol’s Factory days, when emerging artists and mu- LOS ANGELES — BCBG Max Azria Group is peeling sicians converged at his studio in the Sixties. The se- back the coverage in its new fall campaign — including ries of 22 ads feature model Jessica Stam channeling one ad featuring a model, an oversized red leather bag Nico, the German singer from the rock band Velvet and not much else. Underground, in a darker, bohemian light with bangs, David Lipman, the head of the creative agency behind stick-straight hair and wearing items from both BCBG St. John Inc. advertising, directed the BCBG New York Max Azria and Max Azria Collection. studio shoot as well as the 30-second television com- Among the images are a sepia-toned dreamy shot of mercial incorporating the ads. Stam reclining on a bed and wearing a BCBG velvet, shot the campaign and Lori Goldstein styled it. smocked dress and green boots and one of her reclining “It was about different moments — the conversa- languidly on a velvet chaise in a BCBG black silk georgette tion, the darkness of the environment, but the together- blouse, striped cashmere sweater and culottes. Another ness of spirit — we wanted to convey,” Lipman said. captures her wearing a deep-blue Max Azria Collection An ad from BCBG Max Azria’s fall campaign. “We’re not trying to shock anybody, but just trying to dress, with a male and female model lolling on a bed. show young people together.” The attention-getter shows Stam nude on a bed and movie, “Factory Girl,” which is to begin shooting this BCBG’s advertising has traditionally been sexy and clutching a red leather bag across her chest. Her other summer. Katie Holmes recently pulled out of playing feminine. But this is the first time the company has mar- hand rests on a man’s head that is positioned in her Warhol’s drug-addicted muse, Edie Sedgwick. keted its clothes with a model who isn’t wearing any. lap. It is an image that “struck a chord,” said Lubov The ads, which have hit Vanity Fair and W (like The company is in a particularly active period. This Azria, creative director at BCBG, and Max Azria’s wife. WWD, owned by Fairchild Publications Inc.), appear in month it acquired the French sportswear firm Alain “It wasn’t really planned; it just happened and the August issues of Vogue, In Style, Harpers Bazaar, Manoukian, which operates 300 stores in Europe, for turned out to be a perfect concept,” she said. “What I Interview and other publications. The television com- $78.5 million. BCBG is also in negotiations to purchase love about it is not the naked aspect, but her skin, mercial will air on CBS during the “Fashion Rocks” Don Algodón, a women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and which is so calm, almost blending in to the bedsheet.” concert on Sept. 9, Lipman said. He said the budget for accessories retailer based in Spain. The timing of the campaign coincides with a new the campaign was “well into the millions.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 19

HIGH PREMIUM JEANS Worn by celebrities like Madonna, Halle Berry, Paris Hilton and other high profile clients. Within short months it was already in over 300 profile stores! Well established & innovative Los Angeles Denim Co. seeks: Road Sales Rep Must have established accounts, contemp & premium jeans exp. Please fax resume to 323-231-0234 or call 323-846-3731 oe e-mail [email protected] www.jelessycollection.com

Ecommerce Content Associate Maxstudio.com a leading brand in contemporary women’s cloth- ing is seeking an Ecommerce Content Associate. The HORIZON Ecommerce Content Associate will assist the Director of TEXTILES OPERATIONS Marketing and eCommerce with all product photography, digi- SALES POSTION: tal retouching & database maintenance. Must be knowledgea- Knitted fabrics & gar- MANAGER ble in Photoshop, general photography, & Windows. Must be a ment packages: Domestic Located in Burlingame, Ca. team player. Position Located in Pasadena, CA. production and imports; Manager for a rapidly growing Please email your resume to [email protected] Fast delivery & huge branded international hat & bag or fax resume to 626-797-3251 stock inventory. company. GOORIN BROTHERS Maxstudio.com Call Bobby @ 213-742-7771 seeks an experienced operations HEAD OF SALES mgr w/ excellent organizational, Fast growing high end cashmere PRODUCTION MANAGER communications and computer and shirting company seeks new Top apparel importer seeks skills. Ideal candidate will possess Head of Sales. Ideal candidate qualified person w/ strong a strong financial background. will be a creative thinker who can HIGH COMMISSION ACCOUNT DIRECTOR help build worldwide business Head Production sourcing, planning, QC/QA Sales/Design. Venice, CA. Patternmaker Regional Sales Rep & follow through reqd. Visit us at: www.goorin.com while managing and executing All Territories Fast pace,Overseas travel E-mail resume to: We are a growing, global day-to-day tasks in a fast paced For established, high-end environment. Will work closely Well-established Los Angeles required. Located in L.A. [email protected] promotional products design Girls 4 to16 sportswear mfr. robe/spa uniform company. Fax: 213-622-7353 or Email: firm. You will need the ability with head of company, clients, Position requires min 7 Exp & self-driven a must. [email protected] to analyze business issues warehouse, and all staff. Must be years experience with proven [email protected] and develop creative solutions extremely personable, organized leadership & managerial with a strong consultative with very good computer skills skills. Pad system knowl- Assistant style. An excellent track re- and have 5+ years experience. edge a must. Must be cord in B2B or intangible Relationships with better specialty detailed oriented with CFO- Great Opportunity! Designers concepts selling a must. stores are required and relation- ships with better department excellent communication Top apparel importer seeks Sales & Marketing Please go to skills. Competitive salary, www.macher.com for full stores (Saks, Neimans, Barney’s, qualified person w/strong Positions etc.) are a plus. benefit package. Applicant financial relationships to join Diciplined & Self Motivated job description under must live in Los Angeles our rapidly growing company! person needed for long contacts/careers. Send Please email resume and salary area. International LC & cash flow term, multi-task employment. resume, cover letter and history to: [email protected] or fax to 818-244-3877 Fax Resume to; Attn: HR responsibilities. Located in 323-277-0500 tel salary history to 323-981-9051 L.A. Fax: 213-622-7353 Email : 323-277-0502 fax [email protected] or fax 310-581-5223 [email protected] [email protected] RETAIL SALES MANAGER for "BINDI" Eclectic European women’s boutique in San Francisco/ Pacific Hts. seeks a dynamic individual with prior fashion retail experience (min 3 yrs), excellent client service and the ability to build clientele. We offer competitive salary plus commission & benefits (medical, 401k). To apply, fax or email resume to: F: 650-851-2768 E: [email protected] 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005

Prestigious apparel firm seeks to fill several positions.

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Head of Sales No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Min 10 years exp in all sports Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 (snow/winter sports, ski & snowboarding, etc) Accounting Manager Apparel and importing exp. Marketing / PR / Customer Service 2 Million OTB To assist president. WANTED: Ladies’ Fall Closeouts; Sweaters, Knits & Woven Tops Web Site Call or E-mail Harry at: Designer/Fashion 212-764-4626 / [email protected] Open seeing day: Fri., 6/24, 9am - 12pm Positions are loc. in NYC. Agcy. 1385 Broadway; Rm. 905 Please contact Jerry Molnar Tel: 212-488-0050 JOBBER/EXPORTER Fax: 201-200-9031 We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. E-mail: [email protected] Please call 212-279-1902 Production/Purchasing •Place Customer and Stock orders with overseas vendors, anticipating potential issues with product at the inception of the TECHNICAL DESIGNER order. Manage the pre-production Marc Jacobs seeks approval process. Technical Designer for Marc •Monitor and ensure on-time by Marc line. Responsibilities delivery by troubleshooting is- include analyzing products, sues. Qualifications: Min 3-5 creating technical specifica- years experience in Costume tion packages (incl illustra- Jewelry industry.This is a company tion, flat sketch w/ measure- that is growing and expanding Premium Building Great growth potential and bene- Private office, shared showroom, recep- ments, construction details, tion, computer hook-up, fax, copier. sewing instructions & trim fits. Please fax resume and salary 2 booths left. Call Albe 212-944-5392 sheet) and working closely requirements to: 212-714-0046 with design, patternmakers, sample room & factories on Admin Since 1967 CUTTER/SWEATERS developing and evaluating F A S H I O N W-I-N-S-T-O-N Exp’d sweater cutter for sampleroom in SHOWROOM TO SHARE samples. Must have 3-5 yrs Ridgewood, Queens. Ability to cut first 1407 BROADWAY- Immediate Occupancy. RECEPTIONIST APPAREL STAFFING samples from sketch as well as small Includes: desks, phones & showroom. experience, Bachelor’s de- DESIGN * SALES * MERCH lots. Fax res Attn: Leslie 718-456-2627 Call Jeff to discuss @ (516) 428-6767 gree and strong written and Established Dress company ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION verbal commun. skills. looking for a professional (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 DESIGN individual with pleasant ASSISTANT DRAPER/ Excellent compensation & AP Manager voice & demeanor. Duties Major apparel company seeks experienced PATTERNMAKER benefits package & int’l, include phones, greeting individual to handle heavy account Top Couture House on 7th Ave. seeks team-oriented setting w/ visitors, handling incoming/ analysis, general ledger review and a highly skilled applicant with min. of career growth opportunities review of company bills. Garment in- 3 years experience in evening, cocktail outgoing packages and or- dustry experience helpful. Individual and bridal couture. Candidates must be E-mail resume to: dering supplies. Knowledge must have experience w/Microsoft Excel. well organized & able to work in a fast careers@ in MS-Office req, Spanish Fax resume 212-239-2766 paced environment. Related experience us.lvmh-fashion.com in production and custom items pre- Speaking a Plus! ferred. Please fax resume Attn: Robert EOE M/F/D/V Email Resume to: 212-944-7996 www.marcjacobs.com [email protected] Design Assistant Major apparel company seeks experi- Assistant Manager/ enced individual to act as a liaison be- SALES ASSISTANT Sales Stylist tween design and production. Respon- Moderate Eveningwear Com- sibilities include assisting designers QUEENANNE SEWING Nicole Miller’s New Flagship store in with concepts/layouts, pricing inqui- pany seeks experienced, ag- Soho is looking for creative, self- ries and completing production packages. Highly skilled and reliable sewers look- motivated, sales driven people pursuing Must have knowledge of Photoshop ing for contract work. We specialize in: gressive and motivated self a career in high-end retail. Ideal candi- starter for sales asst position and/or Illustrator. Jeans / Bras / Dresses / Pocketbooks dates must be fashion-minded and Fax resume 212-239-2766 Tel: 781-727-6727 / Fax: 781-322-9940 in NYC. Must be organized enthusiastic. 2yr. exp. If you are looking for a career, please Fax resumes to: and detail-oriented for diver- 212-655-7787 or sified duties in day to day Email: [email protected] Design Director $150K sales ops with excellent oppty Sleep/Swimwear/ Intimates Product Mgrs & Asst to advance! Computer liter- [email protected] 212-947-3400 Dynamic team seeks individuals to ASSISTANT ate, and MS-Office required. DESIGNER ASST - WOVENS manage development process of Rapidly growing FASHION JEWELRY Send Resume & Salary requirements to: Better sportswear mfr seeks organ- children’s knit and/or woven DESIGNER seeks a detail oriented ized, computer literate person ASAP. business. Work closely w/design & [email protected] person to assist with order prep, tracking, Must be team player w/ sophisticated customer service and events. Must be taste level & ability to translate overseas agents in all aspects of PD computer literate with strong communi- concepts into garments. Excellent flat KNIT- and DENIM WEAR, from inception through final sales cation skills. References a must! Please sketching ability & Photoshop & Illus- Uniforms-Fast NAFTA full pckgs Fax resume to: 212-741-7600 trator req’d. All aspects of develop- Compliant / aql 2.5 / Sales Oppts. Avilable samples, including fabric develop- ment, price negotiation, reporting & Customer Service Mgr ment process i.e. sourcing, spec prepa- 1407 BROADWAY E: [email protected] Ph:718-358-8278 ration, commmunication w/overseas tracking. Requires superior organiza- Branded & private label intimate production teams, fitting & sampling SHOWROOMS/OFFICES apparel co seeks Mgr to coordinate Associate Designer TREBOR MGMT tional skills to manage large style Major apparel company seeks 2-4 yrs exp req’d. Good benefits. E-mail import, order processing, shipping Associate Designer with minimum 5 resume: [email protected] Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 Patterns/Samples/Beading base w/ working knowledge of knit or woven fabrics and garment con- & customer service. Must have years experience. Individual should Duplicates Cut & Sew excellent organizational, communica- have strong athletic background and Fast & Full Service- Production struction. Min. Associates Degree be able to work within design Designer/Director 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 &3+yrs exp., incl. PC proficiency tion & follow-up skills. 3+ yrs exp room/sample room environment. Looking for a designer/director who 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 9000 in apparel industry req. Proficient in has excellent computer graphic skills, All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices w/ Excel, Word & email. Previous Fax resume 212-239-2766 can do illustrations, work with style Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 mill & factory exposure & proficien- Excel, Word & AS400; RLM knowl- guides. Experience in socks and/or Search- www.manhattanoffices.com PATTERNS/SAMPLES/CUTTING cy w/ AS400 a plus. Great salary & edge a plus. Excellent benefits. children’s sleepwear preferred. Pls fax Send resume/salary req: resume in confidence to 212-629-0595 PRODUCTIONS benefits. Respond to: Asst to Sales Exec. or E-mail [email protected] 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor [email protected] EOE [email protected] Fast Growing Accessory Manufacturer 488 7th Avenue (36th Street) Ph: (212) 921-8100 seeks detail oriented person w/ great SUNNY/LOFT-LIKE SHWRM interpersonal skills. Must be proficient Live/Work in Outlook, Word and Excel. Heavy Designer/Graphic Artist Wood flrs, Hi ceils, 2 baths, drmn Customer Contact with experience Boys, Young/Men’s /JR Company seeks Approx. 1100SF. Immed Occ … $ 3595 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, communicating with Far East. Must be Designer/Graphic artist with outstanding PRODUCTION a team player, handbag exp. a PLUS! sense of color and style, organized, en- 212.629.8694 – MON-FRI – NO FEE PRODUCTIONS E-mail Resume: [email protected] ergetic and a team player. at least 5 yrs All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. COORDINATOR of experience with mass/mid tier market. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Ladies denim bottoms. Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 Must be fluent in Photoshop and Illus- BUYER trator. Must write salary base on resume. 85 Mercer Street - SOHO Responsibilities include Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space. Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Assistant Send resume to: [email protected] Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, spec garments, tech packs, [email protected] Apparel Buyer www.dumann.com communicate with overseas PRODUCTIONS www.raskinexecsearch.com 10 SPOT/Madrag rapidly expanding factories. At least 3 years women’s specialty apparel firm based DESIGNER Full servcie shop to the trade. in Secaucus N.J., seeks an Assistant Leading Dress Mfr. seeks Designer w/ For Space in Garment Center Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. related experience. Apparel Buyer with 2+ years buying minimum 3 years experience to design Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Wal-mart account retail Accounts Payable experience. Must have knowledge of moderate updated day & cocktail dress- 212-880-0414 NYC apparel mfr seeks indiv to handle Open To Buy and a great eye for good es. Knowledge of embroidery & bead link experience a plus. all aspects of A/P: enter invoices, gen- design and fashion. If you love fashion layouts, fashion trends, and garment Volume Clothing Prod’n erate checks, various special projects. and thrive in a fast paced environ- construction req’d. Must be motivated, Search For Space In Garment Center Looking for volume prod’n in Bangla- Pls. fax (201) 727-9704 or Must be well organized & work in a ment, contact us. Competitive salary organiozed, and have good communi- Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee desh & China? Can do bottoms, tops, fast paced environment. Garment exp and benefits. Please fax resume: cation skills. Salary commensurate www.midcomre.com dresses, skirts etc. Call Bob 646-326- [email protected] aplus. Salary: Mid 40’s. Please fax (201) 319-0237 or E-mail: w/experience. Please Fax resume to: Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 8261 or E-mail: [email protected] resume: Attn: Allan 212-302-4058. [email protected] Design Director @ 212-575-6328 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 21

DESIGN DIRECTOR Ladies Sportswear Nationally recognized trend setting jewelry brand has the Established Private Label Company, currently working with following positions available; If you seek an energetic, major retailers, is seeking an experienced and dynamic team fashionable, challenging and success driven career then leader with a background in knits and sweaters to direct our please apply! talented retail team. PRODUCTION MANAGER The ideal candidate must be self motivated, have a thorough understanding of overseas production and be skilled in all We are seeking a detail oriented person with excellent organ- areas of design including color approvals, product spec pack- izational and communications skills. Domestic and overseas ages and specs. Applicants must be able to establish daily production exp. a must. Computer skills in Word and Excel communication with the production team to insure and facili- required. Must be able to follow up w/ vendors in a fast tate a smooth information flow. A min of 5 years experience paced environment. Min 3-5 years exp in the with private label accounts is required. jewelry/accessory industry. This is an exciting opportunity to build a career within a fast- PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MGR paced company! Fax or e-mail resume in confidence to: This position requires a highly motivated and organized 212-398-7647 / [email protected] manager to supervise product development in one of our divisions. If you have strong communication and organization skills plus experience in both overseas and domestic sourcing there is a great opportunity on out growing company. Min 5 years exp. in jewelry/accessory industry. FABRIC DIRECTOR $125K GRAPHIC ARTIST We offer competive salary to commensurate with exp. Womens Wovens Collection FABRIC R&D $85K Toddler/Girls as well as a strong benefits package. All inquires will Better Bridge Designer Licensing Apparel Company seeks a be kept confidential. Please email resume to [email protected] 212-947-3400 talented Graphic Artist. Responsibili- ties will include: creating new artwork, [email protected] or fax 212-334-6152 screenprint and embroidery, setting Fabric Research & up artwork for production, and putting together presentation boards. We’re DESIGNER Design, Sales, Product Development looking for a highly motivated team Private label firm seeks experienced, Fast paced private label company is player who is detail oriented and has a talented, organized individual. Must be Merchandising, Buying seeking a talented and organized fabric good eye for color and design. Candi- creative and possess excellent technical Seeking talented individuals in the merchandiser, with a minimum of 3 – 5 dates must have at least one year of skills. Prior experience in women’s handbag, belt, slgs, and coldweather years exp., to work closely with account experience in the field, and be profi- sleepwear and loungewear a plus. arenas: executive & product team to successfully cient in Illustrator & Photoshop. This DESIGN ASSISTANT •DESIGNERS: Handbags, belts, slgs, manage programs for a major retailer. is an excellent opportunity to build a Seeks exp’d person to act as liaison or coldweather; Jr. through Sr. This team player must have a strong career within a dynamic company! between design and production. Re- woven fabric background & knowledge Fax resume & salary requirements to: •SALESPEOPLE: 3-5+ years exp, Dept. 212-944-1181, Attn: Inf/Toddler Dept. sponsibilities include assisting designer or Specialty Store background, mass/ of testing standards. Individual will with concepts/layouts, technical specs mid-tier & better meet regularly with accounts & follow up with fabric suppliers on a daily basis. and completing development and pro- •MERCHANDISERS & BUYERS: duction packages to overseas factory. Responsibilities include sourcing fabrics, Handbag backgrounds; Great eye for negotiating fabric costs, approving lab product GRAPHIC DESIGNER CAD DESIGNER dips, strike offs, bitlooms, handfeel ap- Fast growing contemporary company Work with designers on creating new •PRODUCTION MGRS: 3+ years exp.; provals and maintaining excel log Work w/Asia & domestic production seeks entry level graphic designer to artwork, layouts, concepts and recolor. sheets of the same. create look books and line sheets. Must Must be proficient with U4ia. Individual Competitive compensation. Please Fax all resumes to be proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, must have good eye for color and design. Resumes to Adriane Schwartz: Susan Pasamba at 212-382-2421 and Quark. Photography exp and photo PGS, 724 Boston Post Road, Ste. 204 retouching a big plus. All candidates should have excellent Madison, CT 06443 Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 follow-up skills, be organized FASHION FACULTY and a team player. Please forward F: 203-318-8999 / [email protected] Private College seeks faculty for resume and salary requirements to: Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, BOX # 1059 DIRECTOR Master’s degree required, along with significant industry experience. Knowl- GRAPHIC DESIGNERS 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor Age Group Ltd. is seeking print driven New York, NY 10001 LUXURY STORE edge of textiles, product development, International luxury retailer needs a buying, visual merchandising, merchandise artists for fast paced Intimate Apparel strong director with impressive man- planning & control. showroom with exp. in apparel graphic Designer & agement and client skills. It is for the Send resume to: Fashion Search, design. Photoshop & Illustrator a Production Manager American 5th Ave flagship store. Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road, must. Excell. compensation package w/ Excellent benefits and salary for the West Paterson, New Jersey 07424. an exciting company. Email resume to Fast growing activewear company [email protected] seeks to add new head designer and right person. All candidates must have Fax: 973-278-0080 or production manager to its team. We strong retailing management back- Email: [email protected] seek talented, creative and organized ground. Equal Opportunity Employment team players to enhance our future Call 212-564-6559 Graphic/Textile Artist [email protected] Major apparel Mfg. is seeking a creative collections. Ideal candidates must Fashion/Graphic/ and self motivated Graphic/Textile Artist have 1-3 years related experience in Technical Designers for our girlswear/Women’s Wear Division. the activewear and stretch fabrics, DIRECTOR OF PIECE Individual must have substantial strong communication skills, work Illustrator/ Photoshop Skills, Strong independently on short timelines, the Fast growing company with cutting edge GOODS AND TRIMS brands has following positions opened: Color Sense, Print and Repeat experience. ability to multi-task, to complete Fast growing designer company looking Ability to create fun Screen print detailed design packages and support for energetic individual to purchase Graphic Designer: skilled in girls, tweens or juniors. graphics also helpful. Excellent Oppty! the private label and sourcing side of fabrics and trims. Must have experience Please fax resume to 212-971-2277 our business. Experience w/ sketches, with European mills and technical textile Girls Technical Designer: Work with specs & Colorways required. knowledge, experience in purchasing, Design and production. Please contact Holly Burns at fabric testing, quality control and [email protected] tracking. Must be highly organized, Designer Baby Boys: For preppy cutting HOT OPPORTUNITIES!!! analytical, and fast. Computer skills/ edge designer celebrity clothing line. All positions require highly organized TAYLOR HODSON Excel necessary. PRODUCTION MANAGERS DESIGNERS ASSISTS Fax resume 212-371-4870 & responsible people. Denim experience *SWEATER KNITS-Better Retailer $45K a must. Minimum 5 years experience. TECH DESIGNERS & *KALEDO U4IA-Swimwear $45K MERCHANDISING ASSISTANTS *REFINED SEPARATES-Contemp DIRECTOR Please fax resume to : Attn: Design Beat the heat w/ immed freelance Vert Retailer $45K Director CE – 212 564 7418 opportunities @ great companies. LUXURY SPORTSWEAR RETAILER *WOVEN/TOPS-Contemp Vert of Tech Design We need your skills! CURRENTLY HAS THE FOLLOWING OPENINGS: Retailer $45K For Major Sportswear Manufacturer. Submit resumes to: [email protected] 212-947-3400 Missy Denim expertise a must! Must GMM Women’s Contemporary 300K++ fax: (212) 924-9421 have solid hands on experience and DESIGNER Shoes 150K++ e-mail: [email protected] DIRECTOR OF RETAIL STORES strong patternmaking knowledge. email resume: [email protected] DESIGNER Email: [email protected] Responsibilities: Visual display and merchandising, operations management, recruiting and training personnel. Candidate must have strong Well est’d. Importer of Ladies’ Missy & Graphic Artist IMPORT ASSISTANT Plus-Size Sportswear & Dresses seeks Established Womens and Childrens communication and computer skills and 3-5+ years experience. talented Designer w/minimum of 6 years EDI Assistant Major childrens apparel company seeks Graphic Artist to create prints apparel mfr seeks an experienced exp. Must have knowledge of garment Bklyn. office seeks exp’d. individual to team player for fast paced import RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER construction along with fashion trends. assist EDI Mgr.; Create orders, ASN, & and artworks from a sketch or to tweak from existing print/artwork. department. Duties include writing Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Export. Excel & Word req’d. Fax/E-mail: P.O.s for Caribbean and Overseas Responsibilities: Inventory forecasting, analysis and transfers. Candidate 212-382-1732 / [email protected] 718-821-0108 / [email protected] Position may also include a certain amount of paperwork such as helping package suppliers and coordinating must have buying/planning experience and excellent analytical, math & to create product packages. Must know and following up all elements of trim memory skills. Strong computer skills including proficiency in Excel Illustrator & Photoshop. and spec sample requirements. Candi- required. 3+ years experience. DESIGNER YOUNG MEN’S FABRIC COORDINATOR Please fax resume 212-239-2766 date must be organized and have good Premium denim co seeks self starter Women’s Suiting Company in NYC communication and computer skills. w/min2-3yrs exp w/ great style & color seeks a well organized team player to Fax your resume with salary require- ASSISTANT DESIGNER sense to create branded woven & knit coordinate and follow-up on labdips, ments to Mark Rubin: 212-444-6019 Seeking talented detail oriented sportswear designer who can sketch, spec tops line for west coast OC lifestyle. sample yardage orders and sourcing Graphic Artists $28-48K Design original models, patterns, trims, with over-seas and domestic vendors. AMAZING OPPORTUNITIES and follow through with production. Strong computer skills required. graphics & washes. Adobe Illustrator & Must be able to multi-task within a IMMEDIATE HIRES!! Photoshop skills a must. Execute com- fast-paced environment and have 1-2 ** Juniors and Tweens Import Traffic Coord. $42-$45K. Current Please Email Resumes To: [email protected] plete tech packs to factories. Travel years experience working with fabrics. ** Backpacks & Accessories exp. in L.C.’s, follow up bookings, overseas req’d. Please fax VP Design: Please fax or email resumes to Tracy: E-mail: [email protected] steamship imports, etc + data entry. NEW YORK•PALM BEACH•NAPLES•SOUTHAMPTON•BEVERLY HILLS•AMERICANA MANHASSET (212) 279-5929 212-764-4599 / [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Bi-Lingual. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005

Production Assistant Purchasing & Import TECHNICAL DESIGNERS BLUE SPICE Women’s sportswear manufacturer seeks Better Children’s and Junior line look- Production Assistant with experience Coordinator ing for Road Reps and in house Sales in spec garment, tech packs and con- Coordinate ordering and inbound Executives with minimum 5 years struction. Excellent computer skills a logistics for a watch company. Includes Casual Wovens (Denim) experience in better market. Currently must. Bilingual English/Chinese a plus. heavy comm. With China vendors. Separates at Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Von Please fax resume to: (212) 391-1425 Must be knowledgeable of shipping/import Maur. Great compensation package. procedures, EDI, routing and labeling. Ann Taylor is one of the fastest growing Email Resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Will also manage inventory, create/rcv specialty retailers and we currently Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry P.O’s. Min. 1 yr exp. & exc. comp. & have opportunities available in our level prod assistant for fast growing comm. skills required. Salary to $50k. Technical Division. Qualified candidates Director of Sales private label division. Must have min 1 Exc. benefits pkg. will have technical design experience, Andrea Jovine year exp working in imports and be Send resume to: [email protected] excellent knowledge of patternmaking computer proficient. Great opportunity and garment construction; good verbal Ind. to direct efforts of major dept for growth. QUALITY CONTROL and written communications skills, store & speciality store business for Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 and proficiency in computer applications. bridge knitwear collection. Develop SUPERVISOR sales strategy, plan & monitor sales/ Production Coordinator Growing New Jersey domestic/import proj/ manage road force. Min 7 yrs Leading importer of Knits & Sweaters. manufacturer seeks individual to develop, For consideration, please email your fashion sales exp; 3 yrs background in Looking for individual with minimum implement and maintain systems to en- resume, indicating Job Code “TD” in subject bridge/fashion. Demonstrated success of 5 years experience in Sweaters sure compliance with customer quality line, to: [email protected] managing accounts,w/proven track Knits & Wovens. Knowledge of standards & regulations. Will also inter- or fax to 212-500-2920. EOE. record of improving current business Korean Language. face with other departments. Qualified while building new accounts in Provide salary requirements. candidates will be aggressive, have good competitive market. Recognize/sell in- communication & computer skills, have Please fax resume to H/R to opportuntities for product dev. Re- at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing tail and/or business P & L exp helpful. 201-854-4834 environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. Email resume and salary req’s. to: Email resume to [email protected] or Production Coordinator [email protected] TRIM ASSISTANT Fax to 212.764.9210 Womens apparel company seeking ENTRY LEVEL talented, energetic, exp. (min. 4 yrs) Retail Fast growing Trim Sourcing Div. of prod. coordinator to work with designer Dresses & Sportswear major co. seeks org’d, energetic asst Est’d. Importer seeks exp’d. Sales Pro. private label accounts, from development JUDITH RIPKA w/ interest/knowl of fashion & trends. to shipment of the finished garment. Must have contacts with Major Chains. Qualified need strong comp, comm Fax resume to: 212-944-3604 Please fax resume to: 212-382-2421 RETAIL STORE MANAGER skills. English a must. Chinese a plus. Attn: Mimi Luxury Madison Ave Jeweler is looking Must coordinate bet customer orders, for a Manager with experience in Jewelry Trim Div & overseas suppliers. Re- Excellent Oppty Production Director/ Sales to join our expanding team. Excel- sume w/ salary req: [email protected] lent career opportunity for an extremely Well Est’d Wholesale Fabric Co. Merchandiser motivated candidate. Excellent Salary & Seeking Salesperson w/5+ years exp. & Benefits. Please E-mail resume to: Vice President existing customers. Opportunity to work Apparel/ Textile company seeks outgoing for commission/salary. Fax work exp. and experienced person with profound [email protected] of Sourcing Major apparel company seeks VP of & financial requirements: 212-563-7157 knowledge of apparel production to act Retail as liaison between sales and production. Sourcing. Candidate should possess vast Must have advanced computer skills and J.W. Cooper knowledge of different factory matrix Judith Ripka full knowledge of costing & extensive in far East. Must be able to interface SALES PROFESSIONAL STORE MANAGER with QC and Production Departments. sourcing contacts. Luxury Accessory Boutique in Time Luxury Jewelry Company is seeking an Fax resume to 212-695-7548 Attn: S.N. Manufacturing experience a plus. Better ambitious and highly motivated Sales Warner Center seeks a motivated Mgr. garments at mass market pricing. Extensive SALES background & min. Professional to join our Madison Ave. PRODUCTION JOBS 3yrs.mgmt. exp. Must have full Fax resume 212-239-2766 Store team. Candidate must be exp’d. in *PRODN MGR-Mens Bet Wovens $75K knowledge of all daily retail opera- sales, and have est’d. contacts. Benefits. *PRODN COORD/MGR-Sweater $60-90K tions. Fax or E-mail reume to: E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 305-861-8435 / [email protected] WISCONSIN RELO *TECH DIR $100-150K *SOURCING MGR $80-120K JUNIOR SALES PRO PRODUCTION MANAGER Sales Assistant *ASSOC DSGNR.Sweaters/Knits $55K Junior/Large size Apparel Manhattan Growing Contemp/young designer *ASSOC MERCHANDISER $55K office seeks Sales person to sell speciality company looking for dedicated top- Est’d. Textile & Sportswear Co. seeks a stores, discounters/ off-price chains. motivated individual to assist with sales *TECH DIR/ASSOC $50-105K notch production mgr. Must have at [email protected] 212-947-3400 Must have good connection with buyers. least 5 yrs exp in the contemp / effort. Candidate should be a detail Fax to: (212) 827-0011 or E-mail: better/designer mkt in full prod. Mgr oriented self starter with excellent [email protected] capacity. Must have exp. w/ overseas communication skills and proficient in Logistics/Operations prod. as well as domestic. Full under- MS Office. Apparel industry background/ LUCRATIVE OPPTY standing of costing, fabric sourcing/ experience a plus. E-mail resume to: GREAT OPPORTUNITY [email protected] Exciting Knit/Woven division looking ordering, basic garment construction, for Sales Executives with minimum Jr./Mid Level Position specs and related technical knowledge 5 years experience in tops. Must have Established junior sportswear company PLANNERS ...... 40-100K amust.Perfect for someone looking Sales Assistant very strong contacts and following. located in Midtown Manhattan seeking ASST. DIR. STORES( Hi-End) .75-90K for a new challenge. Leading watch co. seeks person with Great compensation package. Please fax resume to 212-594-8539 exp to assist National Sales Mgr in all individual with minimum 3 yrs exp. in PRODUCTION DIR. (Sweaters) ...... 85-100K Email Resumes to: [email protected] billing, allocation and receiving and aspects of business. Candidate must other supply chain operations. Must be PRODUCTION MGR. (Sweaters) ...... 50-65K be detail oriented, team driven, with able to coordinate between public TRAFFIC/IMPORT ...... 40-75K PRODUCTION MANAGER excellent communication & follow up Men’s & Boys Apparel warehouse and factory on shipments. AUDITOR/ACC’T...... 50-65K High-end American Sportswear Co. skills. Previous accessory exp a plus. Major Co, seeks highly professional Sales Must have excellent computer skills, & DESIGNERS (Many Areas) ...... 40-150K seeks a Men’s & Women’s Production Proficient in Excel & MS Word. Email: Private Label Exec w/major mass market and mid-tier have knowledge of EDI and UPC codes Mgr. with a min. of 5 years exp. w/Italian [email protected] Dept. Store background. Apparel mass factories. Must have experience in the as well as other customer requirements. Many other oppty’s, TEMP & PERM Sales Executive market and/or mid-tier exp. req’d. Individual also will keep track of invento- designer market, along with exceptional Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708 organizational skills. Great opportunity Shipping Manager Must be aggressive, motivated, willing ry. Salary commensurate w/exp. Great Email: [email protected] Brooklyn, NY based Junior Sportswear Leading apparel company to travel. Products include: boxer shorts, work environment w/oppty’s for growth. w/excellent benefits! E-mail resume to: Co. is seeking a Head Shipping Manag- [email protected] EOE manufacturing Ladies, Mens lounge pants, ties, robes, and sleep wear, Email resume to er to oversee a high volume of mer- both licensed and private label. Company [email protected] chandise. Responsibilities include Girls and Boys sportswear currently doing in excess of 100 million or Fax 212-764-7245 Production Manager managing all shipping and coordinat- in 15 countries globally dollars. Salary up to $250,000. Please Private Label Sportswear importer is Well est’d Designer Co. seeks exp’d ing all pick-ups/deliveries with con- seeks sales executive who Fax resumes to: 646-304-8489 seeking FIVE professionals to expand individual to run production dept. tractors. Candidate must be detail- our Ladies’ Division: Must be hard working, detail oriented & oriented with the ability to multi-task. has strong relationships org. w/strong communication & computer Merchandiser/Sales 1. MERCHANDISER Salary commensurate with experience. with large retailers for Merchandise Dir $200-300K skills. Knowledge of leather, shearling & Please fax resume to: Private Label business. Better Branded & Private Label Ladies’ Hang w/Ellen Tracy & Liz 2. PRODUCTION MANAGER fur helpful. Great oppty /right individual. Alan: 212-575-0068 Sportswear/Outerwear Co. is seeking an [email protected] 212-947-3400 3. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Resumes to: [email protected] Excellent opportunity to aggressive, motivated, positive thinker 4. DESIGNER Sourcing Manager to join our Sales Team. Must have 5. TECHNICAL DESIGNER earn large income for strong merchandising skills in the woven Tumi, Inc. seeks a Sourcing Manager to successful sales. sportswear market, and a great eye for Relative working experience req’d. for Production Planner oversee the sourcing and production of fashion trends. Product development !!!!NEW OPPORTUNITIES!!!! each position. We welcome motivated, BABY GIFT COMPANY our design forward collections. This Send Resume to: skills a +! Min. 3+ years sales proven *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men highly organized, and responsible candi- Req. 2 plus yrs. exp. in production devel- position partners with overseas Box#M 1057 track record in better Specialty/Dept. *Designer-Assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men dates who aregood team players. Strong opment. Enter & follow-up on overseas suppliers, as well as our design and Stores req’d. Fax to: 212-358-0031 purchase orders & item maintenance. c/o Fairchild Publications *Designer Assoc. Jr. Trendy Sweaters communication skills and basic computer product development teams to establish *Designer Girls 4/16 Denim Jr. Driven $ Hi Must track, coordinate & communicate new lines and ensure timely product 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl skills are a must. Please E-mail resumes with factories as it pertains to product’s SALES EXECUTIVE *Designer Jr. Sweaters Walmart/Target $ Hi and salary history (with position title in launches. Responsibilities include New York, NY 10001 Better Junior Jeans Company seeks an *Patternmaker 1st Childrens Walmart $ Hi initial concept to final production. Req. releasing orders to contractors, negoti- subject) to: [email protected] keen awareness to costs, mark-ups, aggressive, highly motivated Sales Pro *Production Assist or Coord Walmart Exp ating prices, managing orders against with major dept./chain store following. *Production:mgrs & coords & assists shipping deadlines as well as, seeing capacity constraints and providing FOB PROD COORDS $45-50K that the salesforce receives timely line Email: [email protected] *Production coords - bilingual chinese targets to meet margin goals. Periodic or Fax: (323) 581-1191 *Technical Designer yg. Mens Activewear Many Spots! Organized Indv’s needed samples. Strong detail & computer travel to the Far East is required. *Technical Design & Assists & Entry level For Growing Childrens Accessory Co. (AS400 and Windows) skills. Dynamic *Technical Designers & Assists Childrens 3 Years Kids Exp A Must. team player will have great opportunity! Werequire a minimum of five years *Technical Designer Missy-Petite Activewear Call Laurie 212-947-3399 Fax/Email resume, include salary production planning or sourcing *Tech Designer Men/Ladies Denim Bottoms or e-mail [email protected] requirement. 212-239-4841 responsibility working with interna- Director of Sales *Tech Design Missy Woven Fitted Jckts-Jeans KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS [email protected] tional branded consumer products SALES EXECUTIVE Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) companies. Prior direct interaction WALTER, an established Contemporary with contractors in Asian markets, Knitwear manufacturer seeking an Sportswear company seeks a dynamic PRODN COORDS (2) TO $50K Production/Shipping/ outstanding communication and energetic & driven individual who sales pro with min. 2 years experience Bi-Lingual Chinese a Must! Great Opps! analytic skills, and excellent PC skills with Specialty stores and Department [email protected] Sales Analyst required. SAP, a plus. has the following criteria: stores. Travel is a must. Fax resume to: 212-391-2485 North Bergen, NJ Sweater Mfr. seeks Please send resume to: • 5-10 years experience individual to analyze & interpret retail [email protected] or PATTERNMAKER Product Development sales data. Must create & analyze weekly fax to (908) 756-8590 • worked w/ major dept stores, SALES KIDSWEAR Prestigious NYC apparel mfr needs &monthlyreports for sales,planning, Equal Opportunity Employer SLS - VP BRANDED SPTS to Dept experienced patternmaker for new Coordinator and forecasting. Knowledge of Wal-Mart specifically Nordstrom & Dillards stores/specialties women’s suit line. Salary commensurate Major apparel company seeks Product Retail Link web based systems very TUMI, INC. • will manage specialty store road SLS - uniforms 2-16, 2-20 to mid-tier with experience. Please fax resume: Development Coordinator with technical helpful. Minimum 2 years exp. and good SLS (2) girls P/L spts 2-16 to mass or Attn: Lauren B 212-302-4058 knowledge of knits and woven athletic computer skills (Mocrosoft Office, Excel, force and in house staff. mid-tier performance fabrics. Candidate must STYLECAREERS.COM and Word proficiency) req’d. Competitive • reports directly to the owner SLS - inf access to mid tier, mass be highly organized and have an un- salary / benefits. Fax resume to Meyer at: Buyer - Men’s Accessories derstanding of garment construction 201-869-5855 DMM - 2 Positions A.D. FORMAN ASSOC and ability to work with overseas factories. Fabric/Trim Buyers Contact: Stephen Hakakian 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Good computer and communication CAD Designers - Mult Pos skills. Overseas travel essential. Tech Designers - Mult Pos E-mail: [email protected] SALESPERSON Fax resume 212-239-2766 Production/Sourcing Mgr Pattern Makers - Lectra/Gerber or Fax resumes to: 212-944-9257 Private label ladies sportswear co Accessory Designers Salesperson w/ selling/merchandising seeks individual w/10 yrs experience Freelancers: All Types experience in mass, mid-tier and/or sourcing & communicating w/overseas Designers - Juniors/Misses specialty stores. Would be beneficial if &domestic factories. Issue cut ticket, send resumes: [email protected] you had contacts/experience in either Production Assistant follow-up on fabric, trim, and garment socks/accessories &/or boys’ sleepwear Sweater Mfr. seeks exp’d., organized flow. Good leadership & strong and t-shirts. Please E-mail resume in individual to process orders, computer skills a must. SUMMER SALES confidence: [email protected] follow-up on delivery, and must be Please fax resume to: (212) 268-3654 $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ or Fax: 212-629-0595 bilingual in Chinese/English. • Handbag sales - mid-tier following Exciting Sales Call Peter: 212-840-1313 • Boys/mens denim - Canada based Salesperson Wanted!!! Patternmaker PR Representatives • Jr. knit tops-mid-tier following Opportunity Fast Growing Sweater Mfg. Seeks Young Designer sportswear company Boutique Fashion PR firm seeks Sr. & [email protected] High-end young & contemp. Exp’d Salesperson For Junior Sweaters. is seeking an expert patternmaker. Jr. Account Executive for high profile Please call Peter 212-840-1313 Applicant should be skilled at draping Production Assistant American brand. Sr. Executive must have mfr looking for highly moti- and first through production pattern Well est’d Junior girls apparel company significant experience with the press. TECHNICAL ASSISTANT SALES PRO making. Background experience seeking experienced production assistant Please Fax resume to: 212-265-5379 Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry vated & energetic sales pro Domestic Junior Manufacturing Co. should be focused in the designer or to act as liaison between NY office and level technical assistant to assist techni- in our NYC showroom or looking for Sales Person. Must have contemporary designer markets. This overseas factory. Duties include ordering, cal designer. Must have exp. specing exp. & clientele following in junior, is a great opportunity to join our approving and tracking fabric and trim garments. Min 1 yr exp in imports. multi-line sales rep. Must missy, and plus size market. growing business. We offer great orders, updating production reports, Public Relations Fax resume to Jackie 212-302-3318 Please fax resume to 212-840-7853 benefits. Please fax your resume to: and working with our design and sales Fashion co. seeks Entry Level PR have est’d contacts in Dept 646-349-4367 departments to ensure quality of our candidate to place editorial fashion, stores & major chain stores. Showroom Sales Exec product. Good communication skills are org events, write press releases, pitch TECHNICAL DESIGNER Luxury cutting edge designer seeks required as prod. assistant will maintain to media. Req. fashion PR/mkt bkgd; Excell. benefit pkg. offered. showrm sales exec. Must be motivated, constant dialogue with overseas factory. knwldg of women’s fashion pub & OPENINGS have 2-3 yrs exp & high end boutique Must know Excel. Design exp a plus. ability to reach decision makers; self APPAREL STAFFING, LTD 213-742-9001 x 404 (Don) buyer contacts. Domestic & European PDS PAT MAKER Email resume to motivated. Full benefit pkg. Send ALAN WOLF E-mail: [email protected] travel. E-mail resume & salary req to: GERBER $70-$85K [email protected] resume to: [email protected] or www.apparelstaffing.com [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 or Fax 212-764-7245 Fax: (212) 764-9210 Attn: V. Williams Call (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 27, 2005 23 WWD.COM UNITE on Verge House Democrats Defeat China Bill By Kristi Ellis that most Democrats would not support it unless changes are Of AFL-CIO Split WASHINGTON — House Demo- made. crats defeated a bill Tuesday ad- House lawmakers traded By Ross Tucker dressing China’s trading prac- barbs during Tuesday’s debate, tices, setting the stage for a arguing over whether the China NEW YORK — UNITE HERE, the labor union representing tex- showdown this week on the bill is simply a political maneuver tile and apparel workers, has joined the boycott of the AFL-CIO Central American Free Trade to attract more votes for CAFTA annual meeting and may sever ties with the organization. Agreement. or whether it is aimed at curtail- “We’re pursuing the process vigorously,” said Bruce Raynor, The bill was brought up under ing unfair trade from China. general president. “I would expect a decision in the near future.” suspension of House rules that “The argument from the UNITE HERE joined the Teamsters, the Service Employees limited debate to 40 minutes other side that this issue is International Union and United Food and Commercial Workers without amendment and needed somehow tied to CAFTA is par- in boycotting the convention that is under way in Chicago. As a re- a two-thirds majority to pass. The ticularly striking and particular- sult, the leaders of those unions have withdrawn from running for vote was 240-186. GOP leaders ly odd” because of the Demo- the AFL-CIO’s executive council. took this route because the bill cratic cry against China, English The rift has centered on how best to serve the various unions was expected to pass easily. said during the debate. and the American worker. Unions such as UNITE HERE and the Republican leaders took the In defending his bill, English Rep. Bill Teamsters said the AFL-CIO has been devoting too much of its re- bill up in what was widely seen said it “takes the largest step to- Thomas sources to funding Democratic candidates in key areas rather as a move to attract more votes ward strengthening the trade than focusing on growing the labor movement. to pass the controversial CAFTA, remedy laws in over 15 years.” “Following nine months of negotiations, it became clear to our but Democrats, a large majority illegally subsidized exports or He called it a “comprehensive delegates and leaders that our proposals for reform are not lead- of whom oppose that trade ac- goods “dumped” in the U.S. approach” designed to elimi- ing to a real commitment from the AFL-CIO to organize new cord’s labor provisions, staged a below cost. nate inequities in the trading re- members,” UNITE HERE said in a statement Monday. “Given our protest. Rep. Ben Cardin (D., Md.), lationship between the U.S. and differences, the delegates voted to move on.” Rep. Bill Thomas (R., Ca.), said in a conference call with other nonmarket economies, The Teamsters and the SEIU already have announced their chairman of the House Ways and reporters that he believes the particularly China. disaffiliation from the AFL-CIO, representing about 20 percent of Means Committee, told reporters administration does not have “It holds China and others ac- its membership. UNITE HERE has some 450,000 active members after the vote that House leaders the votes it needs to pass CAFTA countable, and creates a tough and 400,000 retirees throughout North America. would likely bring the bill up in the House and is “trading mechanism to ensure compli- Raynor noted that UNITE HERE, which also represents hotel and restaurant workers, will continue to support smaller central labor councils and state federations. However, delegates still at- [The Bill] holds China and others accountable, and tending the AFL-CIO conference will vote on whether to keep nonaffiliated unions from participating in local groups. “creates a tough mechanism to ensure compliance “We hope the delegates vote it down because they realize what a devastating blow that would be to the local and state coalitions with trade agreements. that are such an important part of our movement,” Raynor said in ” the statement. — Rep. Phil English (R., Pa.) UNITE HERE was among the unions behind the Change to Win coalition, established last year and made up of the UFCW, again today under normal House everything imaginable, includ- ance with trade agreements, and Teamsters, Carpenters, SEIU, Laborers and United Farm Workers. rules, which only require a sim- ing today’s vote on the China provides tools for us to gain com- That coalition accounts for more than one-third of the AFL-CIO’s ple majority. trade bill.” pliance should our trading part- membership, according to UNITE HERE, and is focused on organ- Rep. Phil English (R., Pa.) in- “The administration is doing ners, particularly China, fail to izing labor in an effort to improve wages and benefits. troduced the China bill, known as a lot of dealing on issues unrelat- do so,” English said. While UNITE HERE hasn’t formally broken from the AFL- the U.S. Trade Rights Enforce- ed to the Central American coun- Thomas, who had stated he CIO, Raynor said it is heading in its own direction. ment Act of 2005, which would tries in an effort to get votes for might have to use the China “We want to focus more on growing the union,” he said. “We allow U.S. companies to file trade the CAFTA,” Cardin said. “That’s card to get the votes for CAFTA, are going to spend more of our funding on growth.” cases against subsidized goods not the way they should do it.” said on the floor: “What we Much of the labor organization effort will focus on the apparel from China, among other provi- He said Democrats, who have don’t want to do is to engage in and retail industry, said Raynor, who singled out Wal-Mart as an sions. The bill authorizes the ap- introduced their own China unnecessary bashing….This is a example of a company that has been able to pay workers low plication of U.S. countervailing trade legislation, rejected the responsible bill.” wages without providing benefits or retirement options. duty laws to exports from non- English bill because it wasn’t He said the bill is a “com- “More aggressive organizing means more campaigns to form market economies such as China. tough enough. Cardin said he pendium of a number of posi- unions in those industries,” Raynor said. “That’s certainly among Under current law, companies hopes Republican leaders will tions expressed in a bipartisan the plans of our union.” are not allowed to file claims allow amendments to the bill if it way by members of this House in against nonmarket economies of is brought up today and warned regard to our trading partners.”

HI-PROFILE SENIOR EXECUTIVE Sports/Loungewear Sales I am a results oriented EVP #1 - USA hand Major Chinese Public Co. w/ 12 yrs NY DESIGNER bag/accessory co. seeks oppty. to increase &USpresence making private label & We’re growing! High end ladies and men’s accessory company has 2 amazing sales/volume, build brand leadership own brands, currently selling major for similar co. Noted for innovative chains, seeks additional salesperson(s) positions for a designer and a design assistant. Knowledge of handbags, planning, track record, bottom line for branding division for missy sports- results. Refs. CEO’s/Pres./GM’s all USA wear & loungewear. Require strong belts and gifts a plus. Candidate(s) must be self-motivated, detailed, Independent Sales Reps majors.Call: (516) 510-7331 / merchandising skills. Must have rela- Very large horizontal vertical knitwear E-mail: [email protected] tionships with mass market retailers organized and have a clear under- mfr - scarves, mufflers, throws - and/or dept. stores. Fax (212) 391-4497. standing of overseas production. women’s and men’s - also men’s knit Visual Artiste with great excitement Applicant must be able to communi- shirt line. 60 yr old co. Must have and enthusiasm for the creative use of cate daily with production to insure a strong relationships - quality accounts. new and vintage materials seeks a ful- UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES smooth information flow. Min 5 yrs Very large line. Fax res 212-354-8809 filling opportunity to create exquisite Est’d. Gold Range Women’s Design exp for the designer and 2 yrs for the and distinctive jewelry in partnership House seeks an individual w/appropriate assistant. E-mail resume to with a company that will appreciate domestic & international client network [email protected] and compensate me well for my talents. for a project to assist in the development Please contact Elise at (917) 843-7515. of, and be responsible for, the sale of promotional programs developed from our library of commercially successful designs and first quality European fab- rics. Compensation related to sales. Please forward resume with references to our Fax at: (416) 487-2423 Retail Sales Manager Watch Sales Fast-paced 8000 sq ft high-end cloth- Watch manufacturer seeks established ing store in Boca Raton, FL seeks can- salesperson with accounts in the trade. didate to manage highly motivated Aggressive Sales Pro Wespecialize in promo items retailing sales team and build and expand an Exp’d in Jr. Sportswear & Girls (7-16) at $10 and under. Salary and benefits established customer base. Experience Budget - Moderate Est’d Accts. Dept., negotiable. E-mail resume to: a must. Salary, commission, benefits. Specialty, Chain & Mass Merchants. [email protected] Fax resume 561-994-6333 Henry Call: (212) 535-1553