Parks and nature reserves in Parks and nature reserves in The region This initiative is promoted by The Marche region Development and Promotion Department of the Marche region. Manager: Raimondo Orsetti Organization: Marta Paraventi Editing: Cecilia Gobbi, collaborazione: Gianni Tenti In collaboration with Department of Protection, Management and Territory Planning Director: Nardo Goffi Environment assessments and authorizations, air quality and nature protection Director; Roberto Ciccioli Carlo Morbidoni Direction of the Parks and Nature Reserves in Marche The pdf file can be downloaded from: www.turismo.marche.it Photos: Images from the Marche Regional Authority Photographic Archives and from the Park Archives - Maurizio Bolognini pp. 46, 48-49; Ennio Brilli p. 4; Daniele Maurizi p. 41; Lorenzo Cicconi Massi p. 18; archivio La Macina p. 22; Roberto Mezzano p. 40; Maurizio Paradisi pp. 44, 45; Alfonso Napolitano pp. 28-29; Giorgio Pegoli p. 35; Claudio Ciabochi; Renzo Tortelli p. 38; Mario Dondero; Ruggero Passeri p. 15, 54, 56; Renato Gatta pp. 8, 26, 36, 39; Antonio Neroni; Giambattista Neroni p. 55; Patrizia Malizia p. 56; Carlo Urbinati p.2; Photonica3 p. 11; Maurizio Anselmi pp. 12, 14; Paolo Aprile pp. 20-21; Piergiuseppe Novaga p. 25; Gabriella Romagnoli pp. 58-59; Francesco Silvi pp. 50, 52; Francesco Ribes. Printing: Grafiche Ricciarelli srl HOW TO REACH THE MARCHE REGION HIGHWAY A 14 Bologna-Taranto Motorway www.autostrade.it MAIN ROADS SS 3 Flaminia - Roma-Fano (PU) SS 4 Salaria - Roma-Porto d’Ascoli (AP) SS 16 Adriatica - Padova-Otranto (LE) SS 73 bis di Bocca Trabaria - San Giustino (AR)-Fano (PU) SS 76 Val d’ - Fossato di Vico (PG)-Falconara Alta (AN) SS 77 Val di - Foligno (PG)- (MC) ex SS 361 Septempedana - -Nocera Umbra (PG) ex SS 360 Arceviese - (AN)-Scheggia-Pascelupo (PG) TRAIN Railway Milano-Lecce: Milano, Bologna, Ancona, Lecce Railway Roma-Ancona: Roma, , Ancona www.trenitalia.com BUS The extra-urban transport system connects the Marche Region to twelve Italian Regions http://en.turismo.marche.it AIRPORT Regional Airport “Raffaello Sanzio” Ancona - Falconara National and international airline connections. www.aeroportomarche.it/en PORT OF ANCONA Connections with Albania, Croatia, Greece and Montenegro www.doricaportservices.it MARINAS Gabicce Mare, Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, , Civitanova Marche, Porto San Giorgio, San Benedetto del Tronto

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www.turismo.marche.it eventi.turismo.marche.it Blue Parks and Spas with Wine Bike IAT - Tourist marcheadvisor.turismo.marche,it Flags Reserves Welnwss Centre Shop Park Information Center blog: www.destinazionemarche.it www.turismo.marche.it The most Beautiful Authentic Villages Spas Water Ski Info Villages in in Italy Park Resorts Point Orange Archaeological Adventure Unesco Flags Park Park City Parks and nature reserves in The Marche region PARKS AND NATURE RESERVES IN THE MARCHE REGION

In the collective imagination, the territory of the Marche region is usually linked to hills and to a rural landscape, but we must not forget that 30% of this region’s surface area is characterized by moun- tains, offering visitors an environment that is still intact and one of outstand- ing natural beauty. An experience in the mountains of the Marche region is much more than merely losing yourself in the unspoiled nature of the great summits, wild gorges, spectacular caves, wooded slopes and snow-capped peaks. You will also discover traces left by monks and hermits as well as ancient Picentine, Ro- man, Lombard and Byzantine settlements and you will relive the experience of a journey into the memory and the roots of this land, where the work of man is perfectly integrated with nature. In the Marche around 90,000 hectares of land, almost 10% of the regional area, are protected by the regional system of parks and nature reserves: there are two national parks (Monti Sibillini and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga), an interregional park (Sasso Simone and Simoncello), three regional parks (Monte Conero, Monte San Bartolo and Gola della Rossa and Frasassi), six nature reserves, three of which are state reserves (Abbadia di , Torricchio, Gola del Furlo) and three regional reserves (Ripa Bianca, Sentina, and Monte San Vicino and Monte Canfaito). Furthrmore there are over 100 floristic areas, 104 sites in- cluded in the European network Natura 2000, 76 of which are Special Areas of Conservation, 27 Special Protection Ar- eas and 1 new Site of Community Importance. In the regional territory there are TOT centers of environment education, some falling within the above mentioned protected areas, others outside them. The vegetation in the nature reserves along the coastal ar- eas, such as that of Mount Conero, is Mediterranean shrub, featuring, in particular, the Holm oak, the strawberry tree, the Mediterranean buckthorn, the Phillyrea and the Mastic. In the hilly area, the Downy oak is the dominant species, although

3 in some areas, such as the Park of Sasso Si- some more adventurous water sports in the mone e Simoncello, you will see vast forests mountain streams, such as rafting, canoeing, of Turkey oak, while the Manna ash is domi- kayaking and canyoning. The museums and nant in the calcareous substrates. various Visitor Centres in the protected areas At higher elevations you will come across throughout the territory (Abbadia di Fiastra, beech woods, first mixed, then single-spe- Amandola, Apecchio, Ascoli, Fermo, Genga, cies and then the high-altitude grasslands. Ostra, Piobbico, , , As for the wildlife, numerous species are Smerillo; the Earth Science Museum of Pi- still present today, including the wolf, the andimeleto, the Avifauna Museum of deer, the roe deer, the porcupine and, in the and ), meet the demands of the heart of the Monti Sibillini, also the chamois, most demanding scholars. which was reintroduced in 2008. Among But the tourist attractions do not end here: the birds, you will find the golden eagle, How can we forget the rich variety of food the Lanner falcon, the Peregrine falcon, the and wine featuring dishes and specialities red-billed chough and the eagle owl. In the handed down by rural tradition, not to men- protected areas, it is possible to go hiking tion numerous possibilities to visit exhibitions, on foot, on horseback or by mountain-bike, attend festivals, see entertaining shows and with itineraries organized by the numerous evocative historical re-enactments or take Centres of Environmental Education (CEE). part in sports, such as horse-riding, mountain You can also engage in other sporting activi- bike riding, hiking, climbing, skiing, canoeing ties, like climbing and free flight, as well as and hang gliding?

5 MONTI SIBILLINI NATIONAL PARK

In the heart of Italy, between Marche and by the waters in which the Grotta dei Frati Umbria, stand the towering Monti Sibillini is located, an ancient and evocative hermit- mountains with over twenty peaks exceeding age of the Clareni monks, dating back to the 2,000 metres and reaching a height of 2,476 year 1000. Moving along the river, upstream m with Monte Vettore. Established in 1993, of Lake Fiastra, you will reach the Acquas- the park covers a territory of almost 70,000 anta valley with its beautiful waterfalls and hectares, shaped by the forces of nature and Grotta dell’Orso (Cave of the Bear), the name painted intermittently by thousands of years of which also signifies the presence of this of history and local culture. Here, you can still species in the Sibillini mountains. perceive the magical presence of the legend- ary Sybil and the memories of ancient nec- FLORA romantic rites that linger, in this place where The vegetation tends, as if by magic, to fascinating legends are handed down. change gradually as you move from the basement rise, located at an average alti- THE TERRITORY tude of 500 m, to the higher peaks. Up to The Monti Sibillini is a mountain range of approximately 1,000 m, Downy oak, Hop mainly calcareous origin that has been hornbeam and Manna ash woods are pre- deeply shaped by the action of glaciers in dominant, after which there are beech the Quaternary Period, traces of which are woods, first mixed and then pure. Above recognizable in the beautiful glacial cirques the treeline that reaches as far up as 1,700 of Monte Vettore, Monte Bove, the upper m, there are natural pastures where you can Ambro Valley, the Val di Tela (Monte Ro- find very rare and precious species like the tondo) and the U-shaped valleys below. Be- Martagon lily, Viola Eugeniae, white Dryas, neath the summit of Monte Vettore, at 1,940 Apennine Edelweiss, Artemisia, anemone, m, is Lago di Pilato, the only natural lake in Apennine Gentiana, Bearberry and the Dwarf Marche and one of the few alpine glacial willow, which is considered the smallest tree lakes in the Apennines. in the world. On the „flowering side“ of the Particularly evident are the karst formations park, the Ragnolo meadows stand out for in the plains of Castelluccio and in the nu- their wealth of flora and here, in summer, merous sinkholes located in the upper Val you can see beautiful orchids, Liliaceae and di Panico, in the Ambro valley, at Palazzo other interesting species in bloom, such as Borghese and also in the furrows and crev- the Fritillaria dell’Orsini, Narcissus or the As- ices of the rocky walls of the main valleys ter Alpinus. where solid limestone emerges, such as in the valleys of Tenna and Ambro. WILDLIFE The Fiastrone Valley is also impressive from The Park‘s wildlife is very rich and varied: a scenic point of view. It is a gorge formed among the mammals, there is the wolf, the

7 churches, Romanesque parish churches, Info frescoes and works of art. Also worth visiting Due to the earthquake occurred in 2016, are the sacred places: sanctuaries and mon- the offices of the National Park Authority asteries built in areas of great beauty and are temporarily located in: profound spirituality, like the Sanctuary of – Swimming pool, locality Palombare. Tel. 0737 961563 - 3357226283. Macereto or the Sanctuary of the Madonna – Institute of Prevention of animal dell’Ambro in Montefortino. disease Marche and Umbria, Via Maestri del Lavoro 06029 Tolentino. TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES Tel. 0733 961946. A network of hiking trails cross these moun- [email protected] PEC: [email protected] tains, guaranteeing you the opportunity to www.sibillini.net make invigorating discoveries in the natural, www.sibilliniwilderness.it cultural and historical environments, from Park Municipalities in Marche spring to autumn. The wintertime, when the Fiastra, , Visso, , Castelsantangelo highest peaks are abundantly covered in sul Nera, Amandola, Arquata del Tronto, Montefortino, snow, gives you a new chance to get some Montegallo, Montemonaco, , , Pievetorina, Val Fornace. exercise on your skis, moving between the forests and valleys, in absolute silence. elusive wild cat, the porcupine, which has Sibillini Mountains. As for the invertebrates, Other opportunities offered to visitors of the unique opportunity for less experienced hik- only become common for a few decades and an extraordinary presence is that of the Chi- park include horseback riding, mountain bik- ers or anyone with limited time to discover the occupies the most thermophile areas, and rocefalus Marchesonii, a small anostraca with ing, hang gliding, paragliding and rock and Sibillini mountains. Two of the 18 nature trails the roe deer, re-introduced for the first time a bright reddish colour, endemic to the Lake ice climbing. The area also offers a countless are „for everyone“, meaning that they are at the beginning of the ‘50s and has now per- of Pilato. variety of possibilities for those who want even accessible to strollers or wheelchairs. manently settled throughout the entire area. to move around on foot, to discover all its Exploring the park on a mountain bike allows Thanks to specific reintroduction projects, HISTORY AND CULTURE treasures in every season. If you are seek- you to travel along roads and paths that were today even the deer and the chamois have In the middle ages, the Sibillini mountains ing closer contact with the wilderness and originally built for the log sledges of peasants, returned to live in the park. were known throughout Europe as a realm the magical world of the peaks, you can also the mules of lumberjacks, the boots of shep- Among the birds, there is the golden eagle of demons, necromancers and fairies. There go on more challenging trips, which often re- herds and the sandals of pilgrims. which, ever since the park was first estab- are numerous legends in this area, the most quire experience, training and the appropri- The guidebook entitled „Cycling in the Park“ lished, has nested even in areas that had famous being that of the Sibyl, the „Illustri- ate equipment. describes the paths in detail and also con- been abandoned for years. Then there are ous prophetess“ who lived in a cave on the An unforgettable experience can be lived tains the relative maps, offering 14 ring the Northern goshawk, the sparrow hawk, mountain of the same name and that of Pi- along the Grande Anello dei Sibillini (GAS) typical inhabitants of the forest, and the Per- late, according to which the lifeless body of mountain range, on a 120 Km hiking trail, routes, each of which can be accomplished egrine falcon. Among the owls, there is the the famous Roman Procurator was dragged completely marked out. Divided into nine in a day, in addition to the Grande Anello by Eagle owl, while among the galliformes, there by some buffaloes into the red waters of stages, it allows you to discover a variety of mountain-bike, which is 160 km long and is the Rock partridge. the „demonic“ lake, considered a place of landscapes and natural beauty, as well as takes at least 5 days to cover. Also frequently seen are the Alpine chough witches and wizards since the 13th century. the invaluable cultural heritage of this terri- You can also discover the Sibillini mountains and the Red-billed chough. It is also inter- Not far away is the Gola dell‘infernaccio, or tory. To allow for the best use of the Grande by camper van, motorbike or car, thanks to esting to see the Dotterel, the Common rock the Gorge of Hell, in which the memories of Anello, the Park has taken care to restructure the Grande Via Del Parco (the Great Road thrush, the Alpine Accentor, the white-winged ancient necromantic rites still linger. Not to the hiking shelters, which, along with tradi- of the Park) and the 6 ring routes that have snow finch and the wall creeper. Among the be forgotten is the area’s historical and cul- tional accommodation facilities, can be used been identified and which form a network reptiles, there is the Ursini‘s viper that reach- tural heritage: the territory is particularly rich in total harmony with the territory and the en- of about 450 km. The Grande Via Del Parco es its northern-most boundary in Italy, in the in castles, look-out towers, historic villages, vironment. The nature trails also represent a is a route of over 190 km, created on exist-

8 9 ing roads, on which you can travel by car, the correct and adequate fruition of the pro- motorcycle or camper van and makes for a tected area. Inside the park, there are also 8 rewarding journey lasting several days. It is Centres of Environmental Education, which divided into four stages. There are also a fur- are officially recognized by the Regional Au- ther six ring routes connected to the Grande thorities of both Marche and Umbria. These Via, which allow for a visit of entire territory. Centres perform the important task of provid- Discovering the Park means experiencing and ing information to visitors, especially schools, understanding nature and an extremely origi- and raising their awareness about the special nal territory, the result of thousands of years values of the territory while, at the same time, of harmonious rapport between man and the allocating them shared responsibility with re- environment, both of which have been able to gard to greater respect for the environment. adapt to each another in a fragile and delicate Experiencing the Monti Sibillini National Park evolutionary parallelism. Visiting the Park’s also means „tasting“ the numerous typical municipalities is, therefore, an unforgettable and traditional products of the area. These opportunity to relive the charm of yesteryear are the result of agriculture that has become to the full and to discover the treasures of a culture of tradition. Its ancient wisdom has man, so skilfully embedded in nature. All this been able to pass down and also to update amounts to a truly refreshing and unforgetta- its uses, customs and methods, along a path ble experience for every visitor, also on a cul- of environmental sustainability, tradition and tural level. A visit to the museums in the area quality. The best known products are pink is a must. Among these, there is the Sibyl’s apples, tasty chestnuts, extra fine honey, Cave (Grotta della Sibilla) in Montemonaco, incomparable lentils, Roveja peas, excellent The Duranti Art Museum in Montefortino and for making excellent polenta with a typical the Leopardian Manuscript Museum in Visso. intense colour green, chickling peas or spelt, These, along with the Park’s Visitor Centres without forgetting the exquisite, delicious are important places for documentation and truffle. We must also remember the beef and tourist information as they offer visitors a lamb meats and their authenticity and origin more general learning experience relative to in this territory, providing the buyer a guaran- the entire territory of the Park. tee also in terms of food. The Deer Wildlife Centre at Castelsantangelo sul Nera and the Chamois Wildlife Centre at Bolognola are both worth a visit, where you can observe several specimens of these two species, re- cently reintroduced by the Park. Inside each Centre, there is a park house (casa del parco), in which there are tourist reception activities and which provides visitors with essential information for

11 GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA NATIONAL PARK

Further south than the Sibillini Mountains, beyond the gorges shaped by the river Tronto, stand the Monti della Laga moun- tains, forming the northernmost sector of the National Park, which includes the Gran Sasso massif. Established in 1995, the Park has a surface area of 150,000 hectares, of which 9,900 in Marche.

THE TERRITORY The Monti della Laga mountains, with the presence of Monte Gorzano, reach a height of 2,458 m and consist mainly of sandstone and marl. Geological nature influences the mor- phology of these mountains, the peaks of which are more rounded and there are numerous deeply etched valleys and impressive glacial cirques. The marl-sandstone formation ensures that water flows rapidly on the surface, collecting in streams, ravines and rivers, which run downwards, forming dozens of stunning, beautiful waterfalls such as that of the Volpara or that of the Barche in the valley of Selva Grande.

FLORA Info There are more than 2,000 plant species in the territory of the Center for Environment Education park, including the Martagon lily, the Apennine Edelweiss and Due Parchi several rare orchids such as the Epipogium. One of the most Monti Sibillini and Gran Sasso important species is the blueberry, more common here than and Monti della Laga National Park Fraz. Borgo in any other part of the Central Apennines, which, with exten- 63096 Arquata del Tronto (AP) sive high-altitude grassy surfaces, is a true moorland amidst Management: Cooperativa Forestalp the mountain pastures. The great wealth and diversity of the Tel. 071 9330066 flora and vegetation can be sought both at high altitudes, [email protected] above 2,000 m, and in the different geological substratum of Legal Head Office Via del Convento, 1 the main massifs. While the Gran Sasso is characterized by 67010 Assergi - L’Aquila its extensive pastures, particularly on the L‘Aquila side, the Tel. 0862 60521 Monti della Laga mountains are mostly covered by forests. Fax 0862 606675 At lower altitudes there are oak woods and chestnut groves, [email protected] www.gransassolagapark.it planted during the Roman era, while the beech forest is the [email protected] largest wooded area and extends for 1,000 to 1,800 m. Park Municipalities in Marche Other types of tree are often present together with the beech Acquasanta Terme, Arquata del Tronto tree, such as the Taxus or the Holly, residual species from

13 eras characterized by a hot, humid climate; the Italian wolf, which is beginning to build gets its name from the imposing thirteenth the maple, the linden, the ash and the Wych small packs again. For some time now, the century Fortress (arx) that crowns the hill elm cover the mountain ravines. Also worth Marsican brown bear has also been mak- and which, according to tradition, was re- mentioning are the rare Silver fir forests – ing sporadic appearances. Numerous birds built by Giovanna II of Naples and has been one of its only two sites in Marche is right of prey can be found here, including the renovated in recent times. here - and several groups of birch, which golden eagle, the Northern goshawk, the There are various cultural and folkloristic are living evidence of past weather events Peregrine falcon, the Lanner falcon, the red- events, among which one of the oldest that impacted the current vegetation heavily. billed chough and the eagle owl. Between historical re-enactments of the area: the the leaves, in the cooler areas where water “Festa Bella”, in which the community of WILDLIFE flows or collects, live the spectacled sala- Spelonga di Arquata brings to life the bat- The most interesting wildlife species in the mander, a rather rare amphibian, and the tle of Lepanto, which took place in 1751. In Park is the chamois, an ungulate exclusive common frog. fact, about a hundred inhabitants of Spe- to the , which has re- mountains, they were infrequently visited. longa participated in the battle and man- turned to live in the park, after one hundred TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES But anyone who visits them even once can- aged to conquer the Turkish flag, which is years, thanks to a successful reintroduc- Until a few years ago, the Monti della Laga not resist returning to them, to go on great still preserved in the village’s parish church. tion operation. Other large herbivores also were almost unknown to mountain enthusi- excursions all year round or for mountain- The re-enactment takes place every three living in the territory include the deer, the asts and, because of their relative proximity eering, back country skiing or alpine skiing. years, on 14 August. In the first decade of roe deer and their predator par excellence, to the Gran Sasso, Terminillo and the Sibillini In winter, when the water is replaced by the month, 150 young people go into the thick ice, the Laga waterfalls offer unusual Bosco Martese woods and cut down a and challenging routes for mountaineers. 25-metre long tree trunk. This is used as The ancient cultural tradition of the park’s the main mast of the ship that will be rebuilt populations is evident in the abundant, in the village square, in a laborious opera- elaborate craftsmanship, in the tasty typical tion that requires great physical effort, while food products and the typical local folkloris- also celebrating the cohesion of the com- tic events that still survive today, important munity. On 19 August, another celebration both culturally and as tourist attractions. takes place: “Alla corte della regina” (At the The latest examples of sixteenth century queen’s court), which is the re-enactment of stone houses are worth a visit. These can life at court and takes place in the fortress be found in the numerous villages set built by Giovanna II of Naples. amidst the mountains, like Arquata del Tron- A visit to the Park can begin at the Centre to or Castel di Luco located in the Paggese of the Two Parks, Centro Due Parchi, at Ar- district of Acquasanta Terme, characterized quata del Tronto, which is the only Munici- by its circular shape; there is also Umito, a pality in Europe to be part of two National typical mountain village, unforgettable for its Parks: that of Gran Sasso and Monti della splendid, centuries-old chestnut woods and Laga and that of Monti Sibillini. The Centre a good starting point for fascinating excur- is, in fact, a Country House, a Park House sions into the lush woods. Charcoal is still and a Centre for Environmental Education. produced in the district of Colle di Arquata Numerous activities take place at the cen- del Tronto, using the ancient method of the tre. For example, “green” holidays, educa- Apennine charcoal kilns. Also worth visit- tional trips for schools and nature week- ing are Acquasanta Terme and Arquata del ends. Moreover, equipment and maps are Tronto, which was an important „statio“ on also available for orienteering, as well as an the Via Salaria, in Roman times. The village artificial wall for climbing.

14 15 MONTE SAN BARTOLO REGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Monte San Bartolo Regional Nature or Brisighella, have altitudes lower than 200 Park, established in 1996, has a surface metres. However, they allow a broad view of area of 1,586 hectares and stretches along the „painted landscapes“ (as Tonino Guerra the coast, between Pesaro and Gabicce. called them) of Montefeltro, San Marino, Romagna and of the coastline and the sea, THE TERRITORY where the Park’s sheer cliffs create a sea- Its main characteristic is the stretch of high scape that is unusual for the typically sandy coastline with bare cliffs, rare along the Adri- coasts of the Romagna and Marche regions. atic. The rest of the protected area consists At the base of the cliff, there is a narrow of an interesting and distinctive rural land- beach of gravel and pebbles, resulting from scape that, until the 1950s, was actively cul- the demolition and landslide of the walls tivated even in places that would be unthink- above. In the past, it was used as a conveni- able today, up to the limits of the sea. Thus, ent quarry for paving stones that were direct- the San Bartolo has two distinct areas: the ly loaded onto boats and exported to other cliff above the sea and the internal area. The coastal towns. Examples include the old cliffs rise up from the low beaches of Marche cobbled streets of the town of Pesaro and like a succession of undulating spurs and the villages within the territory of the park. valleys, punctuated by sheer walls display- The rural Landscape that can be seen in the ing geological aspects of great interest, with stretch that slopes gently towards the Adri- precious fossil fish and rare gypsum crys- atic trunk road, conveys a sense of harmony, tals. Sandstone, marl and clay banks alter- a sort of vital and pleasant interweaving of nate with each other, sloping gently towards cultivated fields, abandoned re-naturalised the sea and blending with ancient landslides fields and rows of trees and hedges. dotted along the cliffs. The highest peaks on the side near the sea, like Mount Castellaro FLORA An area like this one, greatly affected by hu- man activity, would be expected to be ex- tremely poor, but this is not so. In fact, the flora of the San Bartolo Park offers its visi- tors pleasant and suggestive emotions. For example, in the „Baia Flaminia“ area above, you can observe a very rare plant known as maritime - this is the only place in the region in which you will find it. Equally significant are the rush and the wild carrot, found in just a few other places along the Marche coast. Among the pioneer

17 pean honey buzzards, western marsh har- Info riers and a very rare species: the pallid har- Office and contact details rier, plus many other soaring birds (herons Viale Varsavia, s.n. and storks). This is due both to its location 61121 Pesaro (PU) Tel. 0721 268426 along the Adriatic coast and to its unusual Fax 0721 408520 morphology, as it is a peninsula used as a [email protected] directional reference point for birds. Among [email protected] the resident birds, we must remember the PEC [email protected] www.parcosanbartolo.it Peregrine falcon that, after decades of ab- Paleontological Museum sence, has returned permanently to the cliffs, “Lorenzo Sorbini’’ nesting on the walls overlooking the sea. P.zza Dante Alighieri 1, vegetation, present on the steepest slopes, fig, the cherry, the mulberry, the service tree Additionally, there is also the long-eared 61010 Fiorenzuola di Focara, (PU) Tel. 0721 268426 are the Arundo Plinii, while on the drier and and the almond, with the presence of rows owl, as well as the little owl, the Eurasian scops owl and the Barn Owl, which takes Park Municipalities firmer lands, there is the Weaver’s broom of vines and isolated specimens of large Pesaro e Gabicce Mare that, when in flower, provides unforgettable, Downy oak interspersed along the tamarisk advantage of the constant degradation of contrasting yellow colours that emerge from and Jerusalem thorn hedges. the abandoned farmhouses to settle here. traditional rural landscape, with its numerous the blue of the sky and the green of the sea. Therefore, the overall appearance of the in- Among the mammals present, are the fox, farmhouses (some of which have been turned Where the slope is gentler and where a cer- ner belt of the park is also very evocative the badger, the porcupine, the weasel, the hare and the dormouse. into holiday cottages) and numerous intertwin- tain amount of organic debris accumulate, and harmonious, especially where some ing country roads that form a vast network of you may encounter the Madder, the Etruscan large hedges adorn the edge of the culti- TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES green itineraries, in the shade of the great oak honeysuckle and young Aleppo pines, origi- vated fields that extend right up to edge of In addition to its naturalistic value, the Monte trees in the cultivated countryside. nating from the spontaneous dissemination the cliff. San Bartolo Park has a considerable archae- A guided trail is also available and is eas- of reforestation. In the moist areas, white ological and historical content, ranging from ily accessible to everyone. It stretches from poplars, black poplars and white willows can WILDLIFE Neolithic finds in the area of Monte Castel- Pesaro, alongside the Villa Imperiale woods, be found. Here too, as in the hinterland, you Particularly in winter, when there is less in- laro to the archaeological site of Colombar- which are rich in indigenous and naturalized can observe the same associations of mixed terference from recreational activities and one on the ancient Via Flaminia road, as well species, and across the mountain, to an ob- forests with oak and Hop hornbeam, where fishing, the park is home to a large number as Santa Marina and Vallugola, the Roman servation point that sweeps from the hinter- the Turkey oak is increasingly rare, while the of species of seabirds. The area was desig- ports of the past. Between Gabicce Mare lands to the infinite horizon of the sea. Downy oak, the Manna ash, the maple and nated a wetland of national importance for and Pesaro, a charming scenic road unwinds There are numerous religious sites inside the the Field elm are far more common. wintering birds, such as the red-breasted for about 20 km, crossing or touching the protected area, including the Jewish cem- The presence of several species of conifers, merganser and the common merganser, the picturesque fishing villages, overlooking the etery near Pesaro, small country cemeteries, such as the Stone pine, the Maritime pine common gull, the Mediterranean gull, the blue sea. A series of ancient offshore towns, the Suore Servite cloistered convent, that of and the Cypress can be attributed to the his- black-legged Kittiwake, the black-headed from Santa Marina to Gabicce Monte, domi- Girolamino of San Bartolo (which gives its toric Renaissance villas. gull and the yellow-legged gull, the common nate the cliffs from above. name to the entire hill) and the Sanctuary of Subsequent reforestation in the 1960s added eider, the lesser black-backed gull, the great The alleyways inside the castle walls dis- Casteldimezzo. The artistic treasures in these several species to the flora of the Park, in- cormorant, the manx shearwater, the great play a strong medieval influence, conceal- locations (such as the Crucifix of Jacobello cluding the sycamore, the Aleppo pine, the crested grebe and the black-necked grebe, ing small marvels, like those around the little del Fiore and the paintings of Viviani) herald Black pine, the Siberian elm and other alloc- the black-throated loon, the grey heron, the square of Casteldimezzo or at the foot of the large noble villas near Pesaro, which de- thonous species. The rest of the vegetation little egret and sometimes mute swans, as the bell tower in Fiorenzuola di Focara, at scends from the 15th-century Villa Imperi- is typical of an agricultural environment, in- well as cranes and white and black storks. the base of which there is an open gateway ale, with its hidden gardens and its frescoed tensely cultivated until the 1950s, where the The San Bartolo Nature Park of is a preferred overlooking the sea. halls, to the 18th-century Villa Caprile and its tree species include the olive, the vine, the route for migrating birds of prey, like Euro- In the rural areas you can follow trails amidst a famous fountains, to Villa Victoria.

18 19 SASSO SIMONE E SIMONCELLO INTERREGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Sasso Simone e Simoncello Nature Park was established in 1994 and covers a total surface area of 4,991 hectares, in the heart of ancient Montefeltro, on the border between the regions of Marche and Emilia Romagna.

THE TERRITORY – HISTORY AND CULTURE The hilly-mountainous landscape is impacted by the Sassi Si- mone (1,204 m) and Simoncello (1,221 m) mountains, with al- titudes ranging from 670 m and 1,415 m of mount Carpegna, the highest peak in the park and a divide between the Valle del Foglia and Valle del Marecchia. The Sasso Simone e Simoncello Park is the result of gentle and unobtrusive human history, which has allowed nature to remain undisturbed for thousands of years and to carry out its silent work. The hilly landscape is covered in dense vegetation, interrupted by steep cliffs and rocky outcrops on which „impenetrable“ fortresses were built for defence against enemies. It is, therefore, an area rich in castles, fortresses, churches, convents and parish churches. The Park gets its name from two huge rocks, Simone and Simoncello, which were inhabited by humans from the Bronze Age. Some leg- ends tell us about Roman priests, the „Semoni“, who wor- shiped their gods there, and others about a hermit, Simone, who established his dwelling there. It was probably a place of refuge for the populations during the Lombard and Byzantine raids, but the harshness of the climate did not make it easy to create a permanent human settlement on the rock. In fact, it was basically the strategic vocation of the site that motivated the main „urbanizers“ of the Sasso Simone: these were the Benedictines in the 12th century, the Malatesta family in the 15th century and the Medici family at the end of the 16th century. The first were responsible for building an abbey dedi- cated to Sant‘Angelo, probably on the site of a chapel from the Lombard era. The arrival of particularly harsh winters and the opening of new and more convenient pilgrimage routes contributed to the decline of this site, which saw a major and almost definitive collapse with the plague of 1348. When the

21 lords of this land realized the strategic military species. The Downy oak, the Turkey oak, the undergrowth. The Simoncello, the woods of Info importance of this place, the Sasso was forti- Hop hornbeam, the Manna ash, the field ma- the Cantoniera and the Costa dei Salti are Sasso Simone e Simoncello Park Authority fied with towers and walls until, in the second ple and the Neapolitan maple are the most Protected Floristic Areas, while Monte Car- Established according to Regional Law no. 15, half of the 16th century, the Medici family built common trees, while the shrubs include the pegna is also included in the state forest of dated 28/04/1994. Via Rio Maggio, s.n., a fortress-city there, to assert their own pow- common dogwood, the Cornelian cherry and the same name and is owned by the regional 61021 Carpegna (PU) er in an area that was difficult to govern. You the common hazel. authorities. Tel. 0722 770073 can still see the remains of that „ideal city“, Together with the common hornbeam, the Fax 0722 770064 abandoned in 1673, the symbol of which was Turkey oak dominates the vast Mediterra- WILDLIFE [email protected] nean-mountain forest that, from Passo della The Park is home to numerous species of wild PEC: [email protected] the sun - today the symbol of the park. www.parcosimone.it Geologically, the entire area of the Sasso Si- Cantoniera, extends for over 800 hectares, animals, including wolves, badgers, weasels, as far as the Sassi Simone e Simoncello and beech martens and skunks. The smallest and Park Municipalities in Marche mone e Simoncello Nature Park consists a Carpegna, Frontino, Montecopiolo, vast mantle of chaotic heterogeneous terrain, Valpiano. Also present are holly, various types the most common of the ungulates is the roe Piandimeleto, Pietrarubbia. called the „Colata della Val Marecchia“. The of maple, the European ash and the beech. deer. In the evening, at dusk, or early in the territory in question is composed primarily of Numerous herbaceous species, typical of the morning, it is easy to see them emerge from malleable clay and clay-marl soils, which are forest, grow in the underbrush, such as the the thicket to feed in the clearings and in the highly deformable and contain blocks that European wild ginger and the Martagon lily, uncultivated fields. The wild boar is now pre- nest in the area, nor do they frequent open ar- while the mountain cornflower prospers at the sent throughout most of the Apennines, fol- are composed mostly of limestone and are eas when hunting. With the arrival of warmer edge of the forest. On the Sunny slopes, used lowing the introduction of several specimens compact, rigid and of varying sizes. The se- weather, you can observe numerous migra- primarily for grazing, the landscape is dotted from Central Europe, decades ago, for hunting lective erosion of the mantle by water, wind tory birds that, after spending the winter in with shrubs like the common juniper, the dog purposes. Among the amphibians, there is the and snow, impacts and wears away the softer Africa, return to occupy the territories of the rose, the common hawthorn, the blackthorn great crested newt and the spotted newt, the clay-marl materials much more rapidly, bring- park and the surrounding areas. You may and the wild blackberry. tree frog, the common toad and the salaman- ing out raised blocks made from harder rocks: then come across the short-toed snake eagle, In the woods, at altitudes higher than 1,000 m, der. The reptiles include the common viper, this is how the “Sassi” (Rocks) originated and the hobby, the European honey buzzard and where the climate is cooler, the beech is pre- the green whip snake, the Aesculapian snake, the Montagu‘s harrier. Other birds of prey, like are the typical, characteristic morphologies of dominant, as is the sycamore and sometimes the grass snake, the common wall lizard and the Western marsh harrier, will just be passing Montefeltro. the yew, the Norway maple and the com- the Italian wall lizard, the three-toed skink and through during migration, while others, such mon laburnum, while ferns emerge from the the slow worm. as the hen harrier, can be observed in winter FLORA dense carpet of leaves. On the Eastern slope Various species of birds of prey can be ob- There is a wide variety of flora in the park, of Mount Carpegna, some reforestation was served in different periods and environments: over meadows and pastures. The nocturnal which varies depending on the altitude. The accomplished in the first half of the twentieth among these, there is the Eurasian sparrow birds of prey include the barn owl, the little vegetation at altitudes lower than 800 m century, mainly using the black pine. The pas- hawk and the Northern goshawk, both char- owl, the long-eared owl and the tawny owl. features woods with a good mixture of tree tures of Monte Carpegna, located at altitudes acterized by a relatively long tail, giving them of around 1,200 to 1,400 m, originate from an- a greater ability to fly safely in the woods of TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES cient forests of beech and probably also of fir. the area. Buzzards and Kestrels are easier to Among its numerous activities, the Park has In early spring, the green of these meadows spot because they are more confident and also undertaken operational strategies aimed is tinged with the colours of the crocus, fol- also more common; the first can be seen not only to protect and enhance the whole lowed by colourful orchids and lastly by the while it skilfully hovers in the air like a „holy area, but also to improve the structures avail- colchicum, in late summer. spirit“, hunting over meadows and pastures; able for use over the territory. Therefore, rest In the woods and meadows, during the spring the second can be spotted as it draws large areas have been equipped, from which you and autumn seasons, various species of circles in the sky, letting out its distinctive cry. can set out on pleasant walks or on chal- mushroom appear, true delicacies that make If you are lucky and alert, you will also see lenging excursions. It is also possible to take these places the destination of enthusiastic the golden eagle, the Peregrine falcon and guided tours or go orienteering and Nordic researchers and lovers of the flavours of the the Lanner falcon, even though they do not walking.

22 23 Itineraries suitable for mountain bikes or Pennabilli, headquarters of the Episcopal horseback riding have also been marked Diocese, the Park has set up an interesting out. Visits accompanied by Park Guides are nature museum in an old renovated building. held throughout the year. There are also nu- Guest rooms are available at Frontino, in the merous environmental education offers for Multi-purpose Centre of Montefeltro, as well schools, also promoted by the Park, through as at Calvillano di Pietrarubbia. In this lat- its own CEE. ter location, there is also an operative CEE, The Wildlife Park of Pian dei Prati is ideal while at San Sisto in Piandimeleto, there is for school visits and for families: in an area the Environmental Services Computer Cen- of 5.5 hectares you can follow a trail with tre of Montefeltro and the Museo del Fungo the aim of getting to know farmyard pets (Mushroom Museum). like goats, sheep and mules, as well closely A visit to the Park is made even more enjoy- observing unusual wild animals like birds able by the exceptional local produce and of prey, roe deer, wild boars, frogs, toads by the local cuisine. In fact, you can enjoy and newts. The Wildlife Park is available numerous delicacies here, made with mush- for lectures, guided tours, camps, etc., rooms and truffles (both black and white), also for people with disabilities, thanks to Carpegna ham, which boasts PDO recogni- a specially structured specific trail. There is tion, various types of Pecorino cheese, both a Visitor Centre attached to the head office fresh and mature and numerous culinary of the park, located in Carpegna, as well as specialities typical of Marche, Romagna and at Ponte Cappuccini in the municipality of Tuscany regional traditions. Pietrarubbia, while in the ancient Town of

24 MONTE CONERO REGIONAl NATURE PARK

A mountain overlooking the sea, with en- ence of man here has been confirmed at least chanting views. A place with generous, warm 100,000 years ago and left numerous traces atmospheres. Hiking trails that seem to wink of the Picentine people (9th-3rd century BC) at sustainable tourism. An offer of local tradi- in particular. Tombs were discovered, provid- tions in the pursuit of quality. So much history ing rich grave goods, including the famous revealed in every corner of the territory. All tomb of the Queen of Numana and , this is the Parco del Conero, a work of art which was preserved in the area of pine trees. created by nature, a gem set in the Marche The finds are exhibited in the Archaeological region, on the shores of the Adriatic. Estab- Museum of Ancona and in the Antiquarium of lished in 1987 to protect nature and cultural Numana. Further evidence ranges from rock treasures, the Conero Regional Park, which carvings to Roman caves, Benedictine and stretches for 6,011 hectares, includes most of Franciscan monasteries and defensive struc- the territory of Ancona and of the little towns tures such as the Napoleonic Fort and the of , Sirolo and Numana. Torre Clementina in Portonovo. Not to be for- gotten are the beautiful Romanesque church TERRITORY – HISTORY AND CULTURE of Santa Maria di Portonovo and the Monas- This protected coastal area offers varied and tery of San Pietro al Conero, in which various fascinating surroundings, in which Mount religious orders (Benedictines, Camaldolese Conero (572 m) stands out. Its origin dates and Gonzagites) established themselves, in back to a long process of sedimentation that turn, after the year 1000). began in the Jurassic era and emerged in the Pliocene era, five million years ago. From the FLORA Gargano to the coast of , Mount Cone- The diversity of the environments, such as ro is the only rocky bastion consisting of lime- the steep limestone cliffs, the hills, the val- stone formations with majolica rock lithotypes ley floors, the River, the wetlands, and red and white scagliola stone. For this the coastal dunes and the brackish ponds reason it has been a place of stone extraction of Portonovo, are a guarantee of a high level since ancient times. In the 4th century BC, of biodiversity. The northeastern slopes of it was a landing place for the Greeks, who the Mountain are covered with sclerophyl- travelled up the southern coastline of Italy in lous evergreen and deciduous trees (Downy search of towns to be founded. It was here oak, Hop hornbeam, Neapolitan maple, and that the Dorians cast their anchor and made Manna ash), while on the sunnier slopes and it their permanent abode, calling the promon- those facing south, there is Mediterranean tory Komaros (from „strawberry tree“, a com- shrub, featuring thermophile species such mon plant on the mountain) and its northern as, in particular, the Holm oak, the strawberry curve Ancon (elbow), from which the name tree, the mastic and the terebinth. In addition, of the city of Ancona originates. The pres- extensive pine forests are also found here,

27 resulting from reforestation carried out with This certification provides, among other Info Aleppo pine, Austrian black pine, the cypress things, the incentive for local components in Conero Regional Park Authority and other species from the „Forest Militia“. the territory to work in partnership, in order Via Peschiera, 30 With regard to the cultivated areas, the Park to increase the offer and quality of services 60020 Sirolo (AN) Tel. 071 9331161 has, over time, promoted projects directed in the area, in a context of full respect for the [email protected] solely at quality and encouraging organic environment. After all, tourism is the main PEC: [email protected] farming, breeding and production of certified economy of the area, as the Riviera del Con- www.parcodelconero.eu foods (grains, vegetables, legumes and fruit) ero is well-known not only in Italy, but also Visitor Centre Tel. 071 9330490 in accordance with the QM brand (Qualità throughout Europe. In fact, endless surprises [email protected] Marche), a mark of quality of the Marche re- are generously donated by the park and the Park Municipalities gion. This is all done in agreement with the little towns that compose it. In short, depart- Ancona, Camerano, Numana, Sirolo farmers, with the goal of experimenting a ing from Ancona, the capital of the Marche renewed relationship between man and envi- an, the Dyaciclops bicuspidatus odessanu, region, a walk along what is familiarly called ronment. The Park’s most ambitious project, can be found in the Portonovo ponds. The the ‘strada del Monte‘, or Mountain road, will carried out with the agricultural enterprises, marine environment is now protected, with give you a good idea of what is being jeal- ponds behind the dunes. A few kilometres af- united in a cooperative called ‘Conero Agri- a proposal to establish a Site of Community ously preserved inside the Conero area. This ter Portonovo, the road climbs up to the peak coltura e Ambiente’ (Conero Agriculture and interest (SCI), and it contains an incredible will lead you to the bay of Portonovo and its of the Mountain, to the Abbey of San Pietro Environment), gave rise to a brand of supply number of crab species, many of which are beaches, at Vela and at Mezzavalle, which and to the northern panoramic viewpoint. The chain products, in 2012, which is, quite right- extremely mimetic, like the European spider are a must and can be reached only by sea presence of disused quarries makes the Park ly, moving along the same path as the already crab and the timid anemone crab, feather or on foot, along a narrow road with a spec- an ‚open book‘ of the area’s geological history widely recognized Rosso Conero DOC wine, duster worms, splendid nudibranchs (small tacular view. Culture and environment meet in and of the entire stratigraphic sequence, typi- from the wineries located in the protected colourful snails), the spiny dye-murex (so- the bay, where you will find the Watchtower cal of the Umbria-Marche Apennine area. The area and in the surrounding territories. called „sea snails“), cuttlefish, shrimps, a built by Pope Clement XI, the Napoleonic Fort, Massignano quarry is particularly important. It large number of combtooth blennies, scorpi- built in 1808 to stop the approach of British has become the world’s best example of the WILDLIFE on-fish, sea bream and saddled sea bream. ships and now a hotel, the little Romanesque Eocene/Oligocene eras and is now equipped In terms of wildlife, the presence of more than The Conero muscle, or wild Mediterranean church of Santa Maria and the brackish for visits. Continuing south, you will see the 200 species of birds has been recorded, in- ‘Mosciolo’ muscle of Portonovo, deserves a splendid Sirolo, the ‚Pearl of cluding 76 nesting species. In April and May special mention, having become a Slow Food Conero‘ and a balcony over each year about 10,000 transiting birds of Presidium, and can be found on the tables of the beaches of Due Sorelle, prey are counted. This is why Mount Conero good food connoisseurs. Urbani and San Michele-Sas- is a very popular location for birdwatching. si Neri. Walking on, we come There are strategic sighting points, including TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES across the medieval town of Gradina del Poggio, Pian Grande, Monte dei For those who wish to discover the heart of Numana, after which you will Corvi, Monte Colombo, Belvedere Nord and the Conero area, not only is there a dense reach the long, fine pebbled the Piani dei Raggetti. 467 types of butterfly network of trails, created by man over the beach of Marcelli, a tourist have also been counted. In the fine weather, centuries, but the Park has identified 18 par- centre where most of the ac- these fly around searching for nectar from ticular routes of particular environmental and commodation in the Riviera the flowers, for mating and for laying their scenic interest, which can be covered by bi- del Conero can be found. eggs. As for the mammals, the presence of cycle, on foot or on horseback. The Park has Then there is Camerano, the wolf is certain, albeit sporadic, as well also launched numerous other actions in the with its ancient origins and as the badger, the fox, the hedgehog, the field of sustainable tourism, and, in 2013, it its subsoil that is marked by beech marten and the weasel. Furthermore, obtained the European Charter for Sustain- a complex underground path. a small, extremely rare freshwater crustace- able Tourism (ECST).

28 29 GOLA DELLA ROSSA E FRASASSI REGIONAL NATURE PARK

The Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi Regional bon dioxide) in the eastern area of Gola Nature Park represents the “green colour” of di Frasassi, causes the deep sulphurous the Marche Region. waters to rise, generating a fluid that is ex- Created in September 1997, its 10,026 hec- tremely aggressive against the limestone. tares make it the largest protected area of These processes, intervalled by local col- the region and it includes three different bio- lapses, made the dimensions of the many topes: the canyon of the Gola di Frasassi, underground spaces gigantic and these that of the Gola della Rossa and the Scap- appear as highly articulated karstic com- puccia Valley. A trip into the Park is a „jour- plexes with an extraordinary environmental ney into the heart of the Marche region“, to scenic value, like in the case of the famous discover historical and artistic treasures that (Grotte di Frasassi). are hidden by the charming, harmonious On a silent journey of about an hour, you will landscapes and surrounded by untouched, be amazed as you admire the small lakes, thriving nature. stalactites and stalagmites, until you reach the majestic cave of the Abisso Ancona (240 THE TERRITORY m high) (Ancona Abyss), the Sala delle Can- The geology of the area is very distinc- deline (Hall of Candles), Sala dell‘Orsa (Hall tive: approximately one million years ago, of the Bear) and the Sala dell’Infinito (Hall of a sharp orogenic rise created an increase Infinity). Water catchment has been carried in the potential energy of the watercourses out for some time now, for the sulphurous that, by deeply affecting the ridges, un- water pools to be used at the San Vittore earthed a limestone massif, compact and rigid enough to preserve itself in imposing Spa, where they are used for therapies vertical blocks. Today, the ridge of Frasassi against respiratory and rheumatic disorders. is carved out of the Gola di Frasassi, while The Gola della Rossa is similar in ap- the structure of Monte Pietrosa-Monte pearance to that of Frasassi and contains Murano is cut out of the Gola della Rossa. vast karstic caves, such as the Grotta del The basins and hilly areas, however, cor- Vernino, where several interesting fossils of respond to tectonic depressions and marl mammals were found, like that of the cave or clay-sandstone rocks, mainly found0 in bear. the northern area of the park where the high The Scappuccia Valley, which is crossed by grounds are evident. the Scappuccia river that forms a rather nar- The penetration of meteoritic water and row, winding gorge, features a wide variety groundwater inside the rock, widening the of surroundings and, thus, vegetation that is fractures (thanks to chemical corrosion fa- conditioned by the substrate, by light expo- voured by the presence of dissolved car- sure, by altitude and the presence of water.

31 in this area are home to at least 12 different Info species of bat. The colonies of the common Main office bent-winged bat in the park are among the Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Regional Park largest in Europe, with over 12,000 speci- Complesso S. Lucia - Via Marcellini, 5 mens, both in wintering sites and in breed- 60048 Serra San Quirico (AN) ing nurseries. Among the cave-dwelling Tel. 0731 86122 Fax 0731 880030 species, as well as the Italian salamander, a [email protected] species endemic to the caves of central and www.parcogolarossa.it , there is also a considerable Esino Frasassi Mountain Union presence of the Niphargus ictus, a small en- Via Dante, 268 demic crustacean that populates the ponds 60044 (An) Tel. 0732 6951 - Fax 0732 695251 in the caves, as well as other invertebrates [email protected] such as the Nesticus eremita, the Meta www.cmesinofrasassi.it merianae, etc. Information Centre Casa del Parco With respect to flora, Hop hornbeams Former church of S. Giovanni Battista Entro le Mura woods are common in the calcareous areas C.so Mazzini 60011 Arcevia (AN) of the hilly plain, while the downy oak pre- vails in the marl-sandstone areas. Information Centre Casa del Parco di Castelletta Castelletta di Fabriano Beech woods grow on the mountain plain 60044 Fabriano (AN) and in particularly damp areas, while on Park Municipalitie the warmer slopes of the rocky gorges the Arcevia, Cerreto d’Esi, Fabriano vegetation is typically Mediterranean and Genga, Serra San Quirico includes the Holm oak, the wild madder, the terebinth, the phillyrea, the strawberry tree, the asparagus and the rough bindweed. In the summit areas of the territory, there are NATURE falcon, of which at least 3 couples nest in extensive grassland formations of secondary Some of the species found in the park are of the area. origin, representing an ecosystem of great significant naturalistic value. It is a true jewel The nocturnal birds of prey include the little naturalistic interest, due to the presence of ary grasslands hold the highest level of con- of biodiversity, thanks to its 105 species of owl, the barn owl, the tawny owl and the rare species or species protected by current servationist importance, identifying them as nest-building birds, 40 species of mammals, long-eared owl; the presence of the Eura- national and international regulations. a „priority“ environment under the Habitats 29 species of reptiles and amphibians and sian eagle owl was also recently confirmed This habitat is rich with different species of Directive. over 1,250 species of plants. in a neighbouring area of the park. Of the the orchid family and originates from the Numerous rare botanic species grow in the Among the birds, the golden eagle is an im- mammals, the wolf is a significant presence wood-cutting carried out by man since an- Park. Among these, there is the Moehringia portant presence and is at the top of a food and, in recent decades, has recolonized the cient times, to create useful spaces for the papulosa, an endemic species of the Apen- network consisting of mammals, birds, am- mountainous ridge of the Marche region, breeding and grazing of livestock, for hay- nines: the only places in the world in which phibians, and crustaceans. The only couple thanks to demographic expansion of prey making and for growing herbaceous plants it can be found are the gorges of Frasassi, of golden eagles in the province of Ancona species, like the wild boar, fallow deer, roe and trees for food. To underline its impor- Rossa and Furlo. Then there is the Potentilla nest in this park, specifically in the Gola di deer and the deer. The presence of the wild- tance from a conservationist viewpoint, in caulescens, the Saxifraga australis, endemic Frasassi. There is also a significant presence cat and the skunk has been confirmed, as the light of the trend towards abandonment to the central and southern Apennines, and of other birds of prey, such as the Northern well as the more common fox, the weasel, leading to its gradual disappearance result- the Ephedra major, a relic from the Tertiary goshawk, the short-toed snake eagle, the the beech marten and the badger. ing from natural evolutionary processes, the Era, found on the rocks of the Scappuccia red kite, the Lanner falcon and the Peregrine The numerous underground caves present European Union recognizes that the second- Valley.

32 33 The territory is rich in history and art left by man, since time immemorial. In the area of Frasassi, there are some of the oldest traces of human presence (the Grotta del Prete in Pianello di Genga). But the most abundant evidence dates back to the middle ages: there is a dense network of castles, church- es and monasteries of exceptional histori- cal and artistic value. These include the Ab- bey of San Vittore alle Chiuse, founded at the end of the 10th century and among the richest religious settlements in the area, as well as being one of the most important ex- amples of Romanesque architecture in the Marche region. There is also the sanctuary of Santa Maria infra Saxa and the Tempietto, a domed octagonal building, commissioned by Pope Leo XII to Giuseppe Valadier and located inside an immense cave; the ab- bey of St. Elena, in Romanesque style, lo- cated downstream of the Gola della Rossa, founded by St. Romualdo at the beginning of the 11th century; the Abbey of Val di Castro, built in the early 11th century by St. Romualdo, who died there in 1027, which TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES contains interesting frescoes. Today, the Park can offer a network of at Fabriano deserves a visit, with its churches least 35 hiking trails, all marked out, total- rich in works of art, the Art gallery and the ling over 170 km, with varying durations and Museum of Paper and Watermarks, as does various levels of difficulty, suitable for tour- Arcevia with its beautiful medieval town ists and also for experienced hikers. centre. In the Park, next to the small castle The trails allow you to admire a wealth of villages of Avacelli, Castelletta and Piero- flora and wildlife typical of the pre-Apennine sara, are the towns of Serra San Quirico environment. You can also practice other with its „copertelle“ or covered roads that sports in contact with nature: mountain bik- served as patrol routes, and Genga, which ing on dirt roads and cart tracks over tens still preserves its medieval urban structure, of kilometres, both at high altitudes and in boundary walls and Palace of the Counts of the valley, horseback riding along the dense Genga, still intact. network of mule trails, mountaineering and sport climbing on the vertical limestone walls of the gorges and of the main moun- tains, speleology and, in certain periods of the year, canoeing and rafting too.

34 ABBADIA DI FIASTRA NATURE RESERVE

The Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve of is ronment that is welcoming, harmonious and a real treasure trove of history, culture, na- the expression of a balanced relationship ture and traditions, offering visitors a unique between man and nature. environment in which they can discover the The value of this area is, therefore, directly evolution of the natural environment and linked to its history. In fact, in 1142, the Cis- the „signs“ left by man over the centuries. tercian Abbey of Santa Maria di Chiaravalle The Reserve was established in 1984 and di Fiastra was built, when Guarnerio II, Duke subsequently, in 1985, it was recognized, of Spoleto and Marquis of the March of An- by Decree of the Ministry of Agriculture and cona, donated a vast area near the Fiastra Forestry, as a „State Nature Reserve“. It in- River to the Cistercian monks of the Abbey cludes 1,825 hectares of land surrounding of Chiaravalle in Milan. For its construction, the Abbey of Chiaravalle di Fiastra and to- the monks „obtained“ building materials day you can still see traces of the long pres- from the nearby Roman town of Urbs Sal- ence and the work of the Cistercian monks. via, which had been looted and destroyed by Alaric between 408 and 410. At the same THE TERRITORY time, the monks started the reclamation of – HISTORY AND CULTURE the surrounding land. The territory of the Nature Reserve, owned The Abbadia di Fiastra was one of the most by the Giustiniani Bandini Foundation, is in important and powerful monastic settle- the municipalities of and Tolen- ments in Central Italy. For over three centu- tino and falls in the middle-hills in the Prov- ries, it was the centre of fervent economic, ince of , ranging from 130 to 306 social and cultural activities, promoting the m, and more exactly, between the Valley development of the entire area. In 1773, the of the Chienti River and the Fiastra River, entire property was given up to the noble which is its largest tributary. family of Giustiniani Bandini. In 1918, the last In addition to the abbey complex, there is male heir, Sigismund, died, leaving all prop- also large area devoted to agriculture in erties to a foundation named after himself. the territory, which retains many typical el- The Cistercian-Lombard Borgognone-style ements of the rural landscape of Marche, church has three naves and occupies the a vision that has disappeared elsewhere. north side of the cloister. The Abbey over- There is also a „forest“ of over 100 hectares looks it, as does the Palazzo Giustiniani - the last example of the ancient forests that Bandini on the south side. once covered the hills of the Marche region. In March 1985, invited by the Foundation, In the Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve, the Cistercian monks, again coming from created to protect the lands belonging to Milan, returned to live in the Abbey of Chi- the Cistercian monks and shaped by them aravalle di Fiastra. over the centuries, you can enjoy an envi- Their presence brought new life to the an-

37 cient monastery, once more making it a spir- NATURE Info itual reference point for many people. The Forest, which extends over about 100 Nature Reserve Offices The premises of the Abbey and of Palazzo hectares, is the heart of the Nature Reserve. Tel. 0733 201049 [email protected] Giustiniani Bandini contain an interesting It still has a considerable surface area, mak- www.abbadiafiastra.net Archaeological Collection, with artefacts, ing it the latest example of a large forest Giustiniani Bandini Foundation Offices sculptures and epigraphs from the town of that, until 1700, covered the entire area of and Conference Centre Urbs Salvia; there is also a Wine Museum, the hills in the . The Tel. 0733 202122 where instruments and objects used in the Turkey oak is predominant in this forest, [email protected] past for processing grapes are on display, which is inhabited by numerous wild ani- Information Office Meridiana srl Guided tour bookings and a Museum of country civilization, with mals including the roe deer. Like the Forest, Tel. 0733 202942 agricultural tools and utensils from the 19th the „Le Vene“ pond and the Entogge and [email protected] and early 20th centuries. The Abbey com- Fiastra waterways, important and evocative www.meridianasrl.it plex also includes a Conference Centre. wetlands, are protected areas, due to the lation includes the Eurasian sparrow hawk, Municipalities of the Reserve The territory of the nature reserve is divided fact that they are rich in vegetation and wild- the little owl, the tawny owl, the European Tolentino, Urbisaglia into three areas, with homogeneous envi- life. As well as the Turkey oak, there are also green woodpecker, the Eurasian nuthatch, ronmental characteristics and differentiated the downy oak, the English oak, the Manna the short-toed tree creeper, the hoopoe and Following the sismic events of 2016, management criteria: Special Protected Na- ash and the field maple In the territory of many other passerines, typical of the of for- it is advisable to contact the Information ture Reserve that includes a wood, an An- the reserve. Among the mammals, as well est environment. center to verify the possibility of visiting the Palazzo Giustiniani Bandini, the museums thropological Reserve, including the entire as the roe deer, reintroduced in 1957, there The cultivated fields and their relative farm- and the abbey complex. Abbey complex and a Protected Area with are also beech martens, badgers, weasels, houses, located in the Protected Area, are all the farming areas. porcupines and foxes, while the bird popu- the result of centuries of farming activities carried out with love and respect for the rhythms of nature: the widespread hous- ing stock, consisting of 79 settlements, agricultural territory between the forest and has been preserved in its original beauty the river Fiastra, allowing you to observe the thanks to the continuity of ownership and migratory birds and roe deer; the sensory to the care determined by an ancient tenant trail „the woods and the river“ (il bosco e farming-type relationship. il fiume) is accessible to all and allows you to discover the reserve using „all of your TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES senses“, or rather, not just your eyes. Visiting and living the Natural Reserve is a Nearby there is also a Center for Environ- unique and unforgettable experience, thanks ment Education, that can arrange activities to the harmony and balance of the land- to discover the environment and the his- scape, the soft sounds that waft through the torical sites with qualified tour and nature air and the colours that characterize every guides. A variety of interesting guided tours season. There are a variety of opportunities and educational workshops are offered to for enjoying contact with the different natural school groups and are specifically designed environments: in fact, a recent reorganiza- for students of different age groups. There tion of the trails took place, including spaces are also picnic areas in the Nature Reserve, for pedestrians, cyclists and those who love as well as a camper service, ample parking, horse riding. toilet facilities, bars, pizzerias, restaurants, The „Forest“ (La Selva) trail leads into the shops selling local products and various ac- woods; the“Le Vene lake“ trail crosses the commodation facilities.

38 39 GOLA DEL FURLO STATE NATURE RESERVE

Established in 2001, the Gola del Furlo State geological history of Italy of more than 200 Nature Reserve, located within the territory of million years ago. Its rocks illustrate the main the municipalities of , Cagli, Fer- formations of the Umbria-Marche Apennines: mignano, Fossombrone and Urbino, features solid limestone, carnelian, rosso ammonitico 3,627 hectares of woods, pastures and un- limestone (inside which there are various spoilt peaks; an authentic paradise, crossed types of fossil), nodular limestones and scagl- by the Candigliano River that winds between iola stone. the imposing rocky walls of the Gola (Gorge), where evocative landscape combines with FLORA lavish naturalistic wealth. It is because of these unusual characteristics that the Monti del Furlo are home to a wide THE TERRITORY variety of flora, where common plants alter- – HISTORY AND CULTURE nate with rare specimens. The walls of the Furlo, between Mount Pi- For example, there is the campanula di tan- etralata (889 m) and Mount Paganuccio (976 fanii Podlech, the Edraianthus graminifolius, m), are a display of impressive, majestic the dawarf hawkweed, the rare and endemic scenery. Squeezed in between the rock, a Moehringia papulosa with its small, white dam crosses the valley floor, forming a pic- flowers that have four petals, the maidenhair turesque artificial lake. It is here that the con- sular Via Flaminia road once passed, linking spleenwort, the Apenine Bermuda grass, the Rome to Fano, on the . As the Rock buckthorn, the Dwarf buckthorn, the commemorative inscription reminds us, in 76- Leopoldia comosa, the St. Bernard’s lily, the 77 AD, the Emperor Vespasian, had a tunnel Heath leaved rock rose, the German-mad- dug in the narrowest point of the gorge, to fa- wort, the strawberry tree, the Piptatherum cilitate passage through it. The tunnel, called petra pertusa or forulus – which is where the name Furlo originated - is 38.30 m long in the ancient part, with its widest point measuring 5.47 m and 5.95 m high. At the mouth of the passage, there is a stretch of flat road that was travelled along before it was excavated. Two entrances to a second tunnel open up onto it, which was perhaps built by the Ro- man Consul, Flaminius, in 217 BC, and on which old ruts from the frequent passage of vehicles wheels are visible. The landscape and the morphology of the Gola del Furlo allow us to reconstruct the

41 virescens, the Grassy leaved iris, the bitter- Info the blue rock thrush and the delicate and of the area. In the Territory’s “Lorenzo Man- sweet nightshade, the bittercress, the North- Gola del Furlo State Nature Reserve charming wall creeper. Other nesting spe- nozzi Torini” Museum you can also get other ern hollyfern, the Sand crocus and numerous Via Flaminia cies, both passing through and wintering, useful information about the natural environ- orchids, among which the military orchid and Loc. Furlo Acqualagna include the Great cormorant, the Montagu‘s ment and the historical events that have char- Tel. 0721 700041 the and Roman Dactylorhiza. Among the tree Fax 0721 700057 Harrier, the Northern goshawk, the buzzard, acterized the area. The Benedictine Abbey of species, there is the Holm oak that, along [email protected] the short-toed snake eagle, the Kestrel, the San Vincenzo al Furlo (8th century) is worth with the strawberry tree, can be found in the Nature Reserve Management Authority hobby, the Alpine swift and, occasionally, visiting. It was renovated in 1271 and it was south-facing limestone areas, the Manna ash, Pesaro and Urbino Provincial Authority also the Griffon vulture. The reptiles present here that St. Romualdo (1011) and St. Pier the Rowan, the Hop hornbeam, the Turkey Department 6 - Territorial Planning - Urban in the park include the dice snake, the four- Damiani (1042) once stayed. Another place to Planning - Construction Industry - School Education oak and, at higher elevations, the beech. Management “Gola del Furlo” Nature Reserve lined snake, the coronella girondica and the see is the Sanctuary of Pelingo, inside which Via Gramsci, 4 - 61121 Pesaro (PU) three-toed skink, while the amphibian spe- there is a fifteenth-century fresco depicting WILDLIFE Tel. 0721 3592238 - 2413 - 2291 cies include the great crested newt, the Italian the Madonna and Child. In 1922, Mussolini Fax 0721 359406 There is a wealth of very diverse wildlife in PEC : [email protected] stream frog and the Italian cave salamander; passed through and, in 1936, the forestry among the fish, there is the eel, the bleak, the militia decided to immortalize the image of Il the park: the species of mammals include, in Municipalities of the Reserve particular, the wolf, the porcupine and the roe Acqualagna, Cagli, Fermignano, common barbel, the chub, the South Euro- Duce, creating the famous profile that is still deer, as well as other more common species Fossombrone e Urbino pean nase and the Padanian goby, etc. partially visible on the south-eastern side of such as the skunk, the fox, the weasel, the Mount Paganuccio. Inside the reserve, there beech marten, the badger and the wild boar. TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES are two protected floristic areas, specifically There are also numerous birds of prey that is the golden eagle, as well as the Eurasian Walks and excursions are organized in the in the Gola del Furlo and on Mount Paganuc- use the walls of the gorge for nesting and the sparrow hawk and the Peregrine falcon. Other reserve, with expert guides, allowing each cio. Furthermore, the area lies within a Site meadows at the summit for hunting. Among noteworthy birds, typical inhabitants of the visitor to fully appreciate the values and the of Community Importance (SCI) and inside a the most interesting ones to observe, there rocky areas, are the swift, the Crag martin, distinctive historical and naturalistic features Special Protected Area (SPA).

42 43 The area was originally used as a supply of timber and as MONTAGNA DI TORRICCHIO a pasture for sheep, which came there from the coun- NATURE RESERVE tryside around Rome. Today the area is protected as an integral nature reserve and, by Statute, it is intended pri- marily for activities of scien- tific research. Geologically, the area features limestone, limestone-marl and marl for- mations.

NATURE For its size, the reserve con- woods above 850-900 me- the squirrel, the wildcat, the tains a remarkable number tres; the Holm oak is also roe deer, the weasel, the of plant species. This is due common, found in small badger, the marten and the to the fact that there are two groups in the rocky areas, as porcupine. The presence of altitudinal belts of vegeta- well as the holly, the syca- bears, albeit sporadic, has tion in the reserve (hills and more, the yew, which is rarer also been documented. mountains), diversity of en- and more localized, the Hop The Avifauna is represented vironments (pastures, fertile hornbeam, the manna ash by steppe species, such as meadows, woods, ravines, and the downy oak. The the grey partridge and the canyons, etc.) and wide- numerous habitats provide rock partridge, as well as spread dynamic processes niches suitable for a wealth several birds of prey, like the that were triggered follow- of flora (652 catalogued en- European honey buzzard, ing the protective measures tities), among which several the Eurasian sparrow hawk that were taken. The most endemic species stand out, and the kestrel. Also present common tree species is including the Viola eugeniae are the hoopoe, the Euro- the beech, which forms the ssp.eugeniae, the Gentianella pean green woodpecker, the The Torricchio Nature Re- recognized as a Council of Umbria-Marche Apennines, columnae, the Campanula lesser spotted woodpecker, serve was established in Europe Biogenetic Reserve. a short distance from Monti tanfanii, the Campanula ap- the common redstart and 1970 by Decree of the Dean The Reserve, which extends Sibillini National Park. INFO ennina and the Trisetum vil- the tawny pipit. At 1,126 m of the University of , over an area of 317.12 hec- losum. above sea level, on a terrace who obtained this land as a tares, is located in the mu- THE TERRITORY University of Camerino School of Biosciences With regard to wildlife, the next to the valley floor, stands donation made by Marquis nicipalities of Pievetorina Most of the territory is cov- and Veterinary Medicine species of mammals present Casale Piscini, a building Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, and in the ered with pastures and a Offices: include wolves, which transit constructed as far back as then President of the Italian province of Macerata, with small part consists of mow- Via Pontoni, 5 - 62032 Camerino (MC) in the area and whose im- 1874, which served as a WWF Association. It was then heights from 820 to 1,491 able meadows, while the Tel. 0737 404512 - 404503 ages have been repeatedly shelter for shepherds in the Fax 0737 404508 recognised as a State Nature m in the Val di Tazza valley, forest is mainly limited to [email protected] captured by photo-traps. summer grazing period. Cur- Reserve by a Ministerial De- between the mountains of the sides of the Val di Tazza web.unicam.it/botanica/index.htm Deer from the Sibillini moun- rently, since 1970, it is used cree, dated 7 April, 1977, Cetrognola (1,575 m) and valley, which feature copses Municipalities of the Reserve tains also go in the reserve, as a facility for the reserve’s and later, in 1979, it was also Torricchio (1,444 m), on the and groups of tall trees. Pievetorina, Monte Cavallo along with other species like management authority.

44 45 MONTE SAN VICINO AND MONTE CANFAITO REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE

This is the newest regional nature reserve in gentaro, Pereta and Puro), took place in the Marche: in fact, it was established in 2009. Cretaceous period, with deposits of about The protected area extends for 1,452.13 120 million years old. For millions of years, hectares, between the municipalities of San under different conditions, the formation of Severino, , and . deposits continued in what geologists call the “Umbria-Marche succession” up until the THE TERRITORY great tectonic movement of the continental The area of the reserve, located in the pre- plates that then caused the emergence of Apennine strip, is a mountainous-hilltop mountain ranges. area, with altitudes ranging from 450 to The particular orography of the territory, with 1,479 m, corresponding to the summit of large stretches of lowland alternating with Monte San Vicino. deeply formed dales, has created unique It is the most visible and recognizable peak and evocative places, crossed by narrow in the Marche Apennine chain, not only be- canyons similar to small gorges (Gola di cause it is the highest, but also because it Jana, Bocca de Pecu, Fosso del Crino) or is visible from almost any point in the sur- adventurous tunnel passages (hollow stone). rounding area, showing its somewhat rocky A dense network of hiking routes allows you shape soaring above all the surrounding hills to gain detailed knowledge of the nature and and mountains. This makes it a very distin- landscape of the territory. guishable and easily recognizable (even from The impressive scenery can be linked to the different angles) and, for this reason, it has flat area of the ridge and the relatively large always been the main reference point for the areas of woodland, alternating with pas- whole territory. tures, together making a particularly gentle The territory of the reserve is characterized and harmonious landscape, even though its by solid limestone formations from the Late origin is anthropic. The boundaries of the re- Triassic period and, in addition to Monte San serve also encompass two areas, recognized Vicino, it also includes the Canfaito plateau, by European protocols as having significant located on its slopes. naturalistic value (SCI and SPA). The rocks that make up the San Vicino and Canfaito mountain range are mostly solid FLORA limestone formations from the Jurassic pe- The vegetation is formed by large beech riod. Deposited more than 200 million years woods reduced to copse, in which there ago, they were followed by the formation are, however, some centuries-old speci- of the Bugarone (the Canfaito plains), with mens (up to 6 m in circumference). These marl outcrops (Rosso Ammonitico) and flint veritable patriarchs of nature were saved limestones (jasper limestones), rich in fos- from being chopped down because, during sils. The formation of majolica, which is very the warm summer months, shepherds would common (the mountains of Canfaito, Ar- take refuge in the shelter of their large foli-

47 Of the nearby Abbey of Santa Maria in Val INFO Fucina, probably dating back to the 10th Offices: and 11th centuries, the capitals of the crypt Potenza Esino Musone Mountain Union still remain, with geometric and zoomorphic Viale Mazzini, 29 designs and symbols of the four evange- 62027 (MC) lists, the only evidence remaining of the Tel. 0733 637245-6-7 [email protected] ancient Benedictine coenobitic complex. PEC: [email protected] Anther monastic settlement that arose first www.umpotenzaesino.sinp.net as a Benedictine monastery, then reformed www.riservamontesanvicino.it by St. Romualdo, is that of Santa Maria de Municipalities of the Reserve Rotis, “Roti”, going up the Franciscan trail San Severino, Matelica, Apiro, Gagliole from Braccano. The first news of an abbot at Santa Maria de Rotis dates back to 1195, but its Foun- dation took place in earlier centuries, prob- of human habitation and beautiful natural ably because, at that time, the monastery surroundings give you the impression that was already at its finest glory. This destina- time has been standing still since the earli- tion and place of transit for pilgrims, on the est monastic settlements. From Roti, some road between Matelica and , which age (known as merigge - resting in the af- prehistoric times: the caves, gorges and important hiking trails branch out and find is now in poor condition, is located in an ternoon). shelters below the rocks, inhabited since the ideal conditions for a quiet „base camp“. area of poignant beauty and is dedicated The area has interesting flora, thanks to the prehistoric times, have brought us ancient Braccano and Chigiano are two of the places to prayer and asceticism. At the top of the presence of the saffron crocus, the two-leaf tools and stone utensils. linked to the history of the Italian Resistance Valley, known as the “Gola di Jana”, it links squill, the yellow anemone, the coralroot There is important evidence of the medieval Movement, the Nazi-Fascist massacres and the slopes that descend from Canfaito and bittercress, the drooping bittercress, vari- religious past in this area: in particular, the the sacrifice of the partisans. Monte Pagliano and is near a fortuitous pure ous types of orchid, the snowdrop, the wild territory of San Vicino had the privilege of water spring. It can be reached on foot in peony, the common Turk’s cap lily, the purple „hosting“ St. Romualdo, a Benedictine monk TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES about 30 minutes, by leaving your car a short thymelaea passerina, the viola eugeniae and and founder of the Camaldolese order. It is The locations most frequented by tourists distance after Braccano. This is one of the the asphodelus. here that the Saint left his earthly life behind are Pian dell’Elmo and Apiro, which are well- places in Marche where the total absence (1027). He was buried in the monastery of equipped with accommodation facilities, and WILDLIFE Val di Castro, revered as a new St. Benedict, the Canfaito Plains, a popular destination for As for the wildlife, the wolf is an important and the place immediately became a des- picnics, walking and horseback riding. presence, as is the roe deer and the wildcat. tination for pilgrims. For several centuries, A dense network of trails, all marked out on There are also numerous bird species: the his remains were kept buried in the Abbey the ground, make it possible to go on easy golden eagle, the eagle owl, the Peregrine of Valdicastro, beneath the San Vicino (now hikes with moderate slopes. falcon, the spotted woodpecker, the Lanner kept in the Cathedral of Fabriano). A visit to Only a few paths, intended for the more ex- falcon, the Eurasian sparrow hawk, the hen the village of Elcito is a must, with the un- perienced walkers, require more time and harrier, the buzzard, the kestrel and the Eu- yielding solitude of the few stone houses usually lead to the peaks of the highest ropean nightjar. there, it is a jewel surrounded by defensive mountains, like the San Vicino. The greater walls and concentrated around the church of effort required will be rewarded with unique HISTORY AND CULTURE San Rocco, a true unassailable bastion pro- views and landscapes, stretching as far as There are abundant traces of history, art and tecting the trail that led from the St. Clem- the horizon, across the Apennine ridge and religion throughout the territory: human pres- ente valley towards the abbey of Val Fucina, down to the sea. ence has, in fact, been documented since defending its integrity and riches.

48 49 “RIPA BIANCA DI JESI” REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE

The Ripa Bianca di Jesi nature reserve was there are four different types of environment: formerly (from 1997) a WWF oasis. The lake, river, agricultural and calanque. reserve was established in January 2003 and extends over 310.86 hectares; inside FLORA it, there is the „Sergio Romagnoli“ didactic- The riparian vegetation of the Esino River, naturalistic area, named after this naturalist running through the area today, is com- from Jesi who undertook the battle for its posed of a narrow band of trees and protection. shrubs. The conservation and restoration of the riparian woods are indispensable, not THE TERRITORY only for the wildlife that finds shelter and Located in the town of Jesi (AN), midway food there, but also for the purification and between the regional parks of Monte Con- regulation of the waters. The vegetation on ero and Gola della Rossa e Frasassi, it is the river banks consists of a strip of land crossed by the river Esino, and is one of containing willows in the innermost area the most important wetlands in the Marche and a tree belt in the outermost area, with region. white willows and black and white poplars. Up until the 1980s, the site was a long way Allocthonous species, introduced by man, from being an area of natural interest: near are widespread here, including the black lo- the rocky inlet area, there was the landfill of cust, the tree of heaven and the aspen. The the municipality of Jesi and, not far away, type of vegetation growing on the banks is there was also the active quarry of San typical of wetlands and watercourses, with Biagio, where gravel was extracted, which the presence of domestic cane reeds, colo- meant the continuous transit of lorries and nized by climbing species like the hop, the bulldozers; the remaining landscape was field bindweed, the bittersweet nightshade made up of farmlands that extended as far and the white vine. as the river. Living conditions are very difficult for the Today, a visit to the reserve is a tangible vegetation in the calanque area. In fact, the example of how strongly anthropogenic plants in these rocky inlets or calanque ar- places can be restored to nature and can, eas are true “colonizing” pioneers, thanks therefore, ensure that important „ecosystem to their special morphological and biologi- services“ are performed, which are also fun- cal ability to adapt. On the walls, the most damental for the social and economic well- typical species is the wormwood of the ca- being of the surrounding areas. lanques, which is resistant to the harsh en- The territory extends from the banks of the vironmental conditions, the corn sow thistle Esino River up to the slopes of the hills, and the hawkweed oxtongue, while on the situated on the right bank, characterized borders, woody species can be found, like by unusual forms of soil erosion called „ca- common hawthorn, broom, sloe bushes and lanques“ (rocky inlets). Inside the reserve, tamarisk.

51 Species often present in the basal, wettest owl, the Eurasian scops owl, the kingfisher area, which has been completely renovated INFO area, include the great horsetail, the Canna and others. according to modern ecological architectur- Via Zanibelli, 3/bis of Pliny, the Festuca arundinacea and the The Ripabianca reserve is, above all, an al criteria. The Nature Centre offers a wide 60035 Jesi (An) common coltsfoot. environment truly favoured by herons: range of services aimed at preservation, Tel. e Fax 0731 619213 The vegetation that colonizes the stagnant The only heronry in the region of Marche education, environmental information and Secretariat and Environmental Education or slightly flowing water is characterized by is here, where night herons, egrets, white sustainable living. Tel. 334 6047703 [email protected] Jacobaea paludos, tall grasses with their herons and little bitterns nest, making it a It is also home to the „Sergio Romagnoli“ www.riservaripabianca.it base immersed in water, and by submerged site of great naturalistic interest. In recent CEE (Centre of Environmental Education) Facebook: Riserva Ripa Bianca rooted vegetation and floating vegetation. years, as well as these bird species, other with a conference room, an Entomological The quarry of San Biagio was a deep injury birds have started to nest in the area, rep- laboratory, a workshop for hands-on experi- Municipality of the Reserve Jesi to the landscape, caused by man in order resenting a place of unique naturalistic ence, a room dedicated to teaching about to extract gravel. This mining activity came value in the Marche region. These include the fluvial environment, an aquarium and a to an end about twenty years ago, leaving the squacco heron, the cattle egret and the remote camera system positioned over the nature to take over. The great depression pigmy cormorant. Normally noisy, the her- heronry, as well as other interesting facilities of sustainable agriculture, itineraries and that the bulldozers had created is now cov- onry resembles a large apartment building, and services. The „Ripa Bianca“ Ornitho- thematic workshops linked to work, habits ered by water. The picturesque little lake an extraordinary place in which more than logical Institute is dedicated to the study and rural memories are offered. In it, there takes up more than 2 hectares and reaches 100 couples of breeding herons nest in the of the avifauna in the middle and low areas is an organic vineyard, an orchard of for- a maximum depth of just over 4 m. As well spring, between the trees in the canebrake. of the Vallesina. In fact, it is here that the gotten flavours, a field of perfumes for the as having great naturalistic importance, the From comfortable observation huts, you monitoring and census of birds is carried cultivation of medicinal and aromatic herbs, basin and the banks that surround it also can admire them as they build their nests, out, both for migratory and wintering birds, a teaching chicken and an area of ar- have a significant educational value, be- during courtship and mating or while they also by using the technique of ringing. The able land dedicated to organic cultivation cause they show how nature is able to heal prompt the young birds to take their first “Ripa Bianca” Entomological Institute, on of traditional cereals and pulses. The plots the wounds caused by man. Hedges were flight. the other hand, deals with study, distribu- are interspersed by rows of olive trees, thus planted in the agricultural part of the edu- As for the reptiles and amphibians, as well tion and education relative to the important recovering the ancient „tree-lined“ Marche cational area and along the trails, perform- as the most common species, it is particu- world of insects and other arthropods. The landscape. The area used as a vegetable ing important functions: acting as screens larly interesting to discover the slow worm, Microcosm Teaching Area is an integral garden is tended by people who have joined and windbreakers, aiding feeding and nest- the dice snake and the spotted newt. In- part of the Institute. Ripa Bianca is also an the intergenerational integration and spatial ing and providing shelter for wildlife. Tree side the „Sergio Romagnoli“ educational educational farm and, through the teaching continuity project (Reserve - Town) „grand- and shrub species were planted according area, there are some specimens of the father cultivates: adopt an organic garden“ to a functional criterion that is also useful common tortoise (Testudo hermanni), to aiming at passing on knowledge and rural for teaching purposes: this is how hedges which a wildlife area has been dedicated, culture and offering the opportunity to culti- of lesser fruits, hedges of staining plants, with the educational and conservational vate an organic family vegetable garden for hedges for avifauna and hedges for butter- goal of acquainting visitors with this inter- the residents of Jesi. flies were created. esting species and thus contributing to its The „Ripa Bianca di Jesi“ Nature Reserve preservation: in fact, the capture and cap- is therefore a story with a happy ending. WILDLIFE tive breeding of all European species of tor- Here, the commitment and efforts of the The basin of the Esino River is a nesting, toises is prohibited by law. WWF Italy, which is currently the manage- wintering and aestivation site for numerous ment authority of the protected area, along bird species, with suitable areas for migra- TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES with the public administrations and the eco- tory birds to stop over and feed. The nest- The Ripa Bianca di Jesi Nature Centre in the logical regeneration of nature, have made it ing species that have been identified include Regional Nature Reserve has its head office possible, in just over two decades, to turn the kestrel, the hobby, the common pheas- based in the farmhouse complex, located a landfill into a treasure chest of protected ant, the cuckoo, the barn owl, the tawny within the „Sergio Romagnoli“ educational biodiversity.

52 53 SENTINA NATURE RESERVE

Established on 14 December 2004, la Sen- significance in the whole of the central and tina Regional Nature Reserve is the small- southern Adriatic area of Italy. est protected area in the Marche region, but one of great environmental significance. FLORA The location, as well as being singled out THE TERRITORY by the Marche Regional Authority as a A landscape of water and sand that stretch- „Floristic Area“, is part of the European es for about 180 hectares, inside the Munic- Union’s Natura 2000 network; in fact, it is ipality of San Benedetto del Tronto, between recognized both as a SCI - Site of Com- the village of Porto d‘Ascoli in the North munity Importance (IT5340001 „Porto and the Tronto River in the South. Along d‘Ascoli Coastline“) and as a SPA - Special the Adriatic coast, which appears as a suc- Protection Area (IT5340022 „Porto d‘Ascoli cession of urbanized areas with almost no Coastline, La Sentina“) in accordance with interruption, the Sentina Reserve is a veri- the Habitats and Birds Directives. table „reminder“ of the past — that is, how The most important species of flora include the coastline appeared before the economic the Salicornia patula, the Euphorbia terrac- boom of the ‘60s. The name „Sentina“ comes from its most distinctive feature, namely that of being a natural extended detention pond of the River Tronto (the main river in the Marche region), which flows here. Numerous his- torical documents testify to the presence of lakes and ponds, which have been drained and cleaned up over time, but that today are present once more, thanks to environmen- tal recovery interventions carried out by the protected area. The Sentina consists of unique environ- ments including sand bars, wetlands behind the dunes and brackish grasslands, which are home to a rich, unique flora that has disappeared almost the entirely along the Adriatic coast. Despite its small size, over 400 plant spe- cies exist here, making this area one of exceptional floristic and bio-geographical

55 ina, the Atriplex portulacoides, the Salsola heritage, built in 1800 and the early 1900s, INFO soda, the Suaeda maritima and the Aster is also remarkable. Sentina Regional Nature Reserve tripolium. The reserve, which can be visited via a net- Piazza Cesare Battisti, 1 In winter, along the gulleys, banks and on work of pedestrian and cyclist trails, lies on 63074 San Benedetto del Tronto (AP) Tel. 0735 794278/279 the flooded clay soils, the common reed ap- the crossroads between the Adriatic bike Fax 0735 794277 pears, while on the banks of the river Tronto, lane and the Salaria bike lane, which be- [email protected] several species of willow and white poplar gins here and leads towards Rome and the www.riservasentina.it can be found. Tyrrhenian Sea. Inside the reserve, there are Facebook: Naturschutzgebiet Sentina also numerous educational bulletin boards Management Authority WILDLIFE and 6 turrets for bird-watching activities, Municipality of San Benedetto del Tronto Viale De Gasperi, 124 In addition to the vegetation, the Sentina which are particularly useful especially dur- 63074 San Benedetto del Tronto (AP) Reserve is also of great importance due to ing bird migration (spring and autumn). Tel. 0735 7941 its avifauna, representing one of the rare The reserve undertakes a number of inter- www.comunesbt.it resting places for migratory birds, located esting initiatives aimed at a diverse audi- Municipality of the Reserve between the Gargano and the delta of the ence, from children, adults and experts in San Benedetto del Tronto river Po. It was also identified as an IBA the naturalistic sector to anyone who wants (Important Bird Area) by BirdLife Interna- to discover this new world for the first time. tional. Here, over 180 species of birds have These activities, coordinated by the „Torre been counted, both migratory and wintering sul Porto“ Centre of Environmental Educa- mouth of the river Tronto using kayaks; species, many of which are of Community tion (C.E.E.), see the participation and the events for raising awareness on the theme interest. There are also several species of essential support of environmental associa- of the sea and sea turtles; development of amphibians, reptiles, mammals and fish. tions that operate locally. educational publications; creation of on- The most interesting birds, which also have Among the activities that take place, there going educational projects for every type a high symbolic value, include the black- reserve, there have been episodes of sea are lectures in schools and guided tours and level of school, as well as scientific re- winged stilt (symbol of the reserve), the turtles (Caretta Caretta) getting stranded for adults, children and the disabled; bird- search. It is also possible to arrange specific Kentish plover, the kingfisher, the coot, the and in difficulty (due to the cold or injuries watching excursions, at sea and at the activities at the request of users. crane, the little egret, the Northern lapwing, caused by fishing activities). the Western marsh harrier and the short- toed lark. TOURISM OPPORTUNITIES The number of mammals living in the re- There are numerous interesting traces of serve is smaller, due to the strong anthrop- history dating back to the Bronze Age, be- ic pressure and the ecological isolation of tween the 13th and 14th centuries BC, doc- the area; however, several species of bats umenting the existence of commercial and are present, fundamental for the biological cultural exchanges between the Mycenae- control of insects like mosquitoes, and there ans and the local populations. Ancient Ro- are also hedgehogs, moles, musk shrews, man remains are represented by structures weasels, beech martens and European wa- that can most likely be attributed to build- ter voles. There are 5 amphibian species ings and roads of the town of Truentum. and 7 reptile species present. Among the The construction of the „Torre sul Porto“ most important, there is the European green (Tower on the Port) can be traced back to a toad, located along the gulleys and in the relatively recent period (1543). It has been area behind the dunes, in both fresh and recently restored and was originally used brackish waters. Along the shoreline of the for spotting pirates. The rural architectural

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CENTRES OF CEE (CENTRES OF ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION) ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION IN THE PARKS AND NATURE RESERVES In the Marche there is a system of training and environment education (INFEA Marche) , In the Monti Sibillini area: Vallenatura di Cessapalombo CEE Gola della Rossa park CEE based on 44 Centres for Environment Education (CEA), 17 of which fall within the parks Monti Sibillini National Park Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Sibilla CEE C.da Fonte Girata, 3 Regional Natural Park and the nature reserves. Monte Sibillini National Park 62020 Cessapalombo (MC) Via Marcellini, 5 The CEAs, that can rely on 8 territorial networks, offer information service and perform a Via Trieste, 15 - c/o Villa Curi Tel. 340 2522383 60048 Serra San Quirico (AN) wide range of awareness-raising activities mainly among young people about the environ- 63088 Montemonaco (AP) [email protected] Tel. 0731 86122 ment and its influence on human activities. Lectures, meetings, events, workshops and Tel. 338 6904069 [email protected] [email protected] Valle del Fiastrone CEE excursions are often organized in direct contact with nature so as to encourage sustain- Monti Sibillini National Park Abbadia di Fiastra able practices . Thanks to licensed and knowledgeable guides (tour, nature and medium- Due Parchi CEE Via Del Lago, 5 nature reserve CEE mountain guides, etc.), you can learn about the environment , the historic art treasures and Monti Sibillini and Gran Sasso and 62035 Fiastra (MC) Abbadia di Fiastra State Natural Monti della Laga National Parks Tel. 0737 52185 Reserve discover the local and regional food and wines. Fraz. Borgo [email protected] C.da Abbadia di Fiastra 63096 Arquata del Tronto (AP) 62010 Urbisaglia (MC) Tel. 071 9330066 Tel. 0733 202942 [email protected] In the other [email protected] protected areas: Legambiente Fillide CEE Furlo and Valle del Metauro CEE Monti Sibillini National Park Sasso Simone e Simoncello Gola del Furlo State Natural Via Indipendenza, 73 park CEE Reserve 63857 Amandola (FM) Sasso Simone and Simoncello Via Pianacce, 1 Tel. 338 6904069 Regional Natural Park 61041 Acqualagna (PU) [email protected] Via Montefeltresca, 157 - Loc. Tel. 0721 700226 Ponte Cappuccini [email protected] Gaia CEE 61023 Pietrarubbia (PU) Monti Sibillini National Park Tel. 0722 75350 Valle dei Grilli e dell’Elce CEE Via Piana, 1 - Loc. Cupi di Visso [email protected] Monte San Vicino and Monte 62039 Visso (MC) Canfaito Natura Reserve Tel. 347 7356565 Parco del Conero CEE Via Casetre, 19 [email protected] Monte Conero Regional Natural 62022 Gagliole (MC) Park Tel. 0737 641184 Credia WWF CEE Via Peschiera, 30 [email protected] Monti Sibillini National Park 60020 Sirolo (AN) C.da Vallato snc Tel. 071 9331161 Sergio Romagnoli CEE 62026 San Ginesio (MC) [email protected] Ripa Bianca Nature Reserve Tel. 0733 694125 Via Zanibelli, 3 bis [email protected] Conero CEE 60035 Jesi (AN) Monte Conero Regional Natural Tel. 0731 619213 Montegallo CEE Park [email protected] Monti Sibillini National Park Via del Porto, 22 - c/o Sea Wolf Fraz. Balzo snc 60026 Numana (AN) Torre sul Porto CEE c/o Centro multifunzionale Tel. 071 933066 Sentina Natura Reserve 63094 Montegallo (AP) [email protected] Viale De Gasperi, 124 Tel. 0736 806122 63074 San Benedetto del Tronto (AP) infoposta@.montegallo.ap.it Tel. 0735 794724 / 278 [email protected]

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INDEX

page page Parks and nature reserves 3 Abbadia di Fiastra Nature Reserve 37 in The Marche region The territory – History and Culture Nature Monti Sibillini National Park 7 Tourism opportunities The territory Flora Gola del Furlo State Nature Reserve 41 Wildlife The territory - History and Culture History and culture Flora Tourism opportunities Wildlife Tourism opportunities Gran Sasso 13 and Monti della Laga National Park Montagna di Torricchio Nature Reserve 44 The territory The territory Flora Nature Wildlife Monte San Vicino and Monte Canfaito 47 Tourism opportunities Regional Nature Reserv Monte San Bartolo Regional Nature Park 17 The territory The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife History and Culture Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Sasso Simone e Simoncello 21 “Ripa Bianca di Jesi” 51 Interregional Nature Park Regional Nature Reserve The territory - History and Culture The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Monte Conero Regional Nature Park 27 Sentina Nature Reserve 55 The territory - History and Culture The territory Flora Flora Wildlife Wildlife Tourism opportunities Tourism opportunities Gola della Rossa 31 Centres of Environmental Education 60 and Frasassi Regional Nature Park The CEE in the parks and nature reserves The territory Nature Tourism opportunities

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