Maps Restaurants Cafés Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Summer - Autumn 2014

Fun in the Sun Sightseeing, beaches and so much more…

Eating out Sample Cagliari’s rich culinary traditions

Shopping Boutiques and bargains, fashion and food

inyourpocket.com Contents

All you need to know ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES about where to sleep, Arriving & Basics 5 eat, drink, visit and enjoy Culture & Events 9 Where to stay 11 Online Where to eat 14

Nightlife 18 The Cathedral © di Cagliari What to see 19 Maps & Index Getting Around 27 Street register 35 Transport map 36-37 Shopping 30 City map 38-39 City centre map 40-41 Lifestyle Directory 33 Index 42

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Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides .inyourpocket.com Rina_AI13_Cagliari_InYourPocket_124x90.indd 1 Summer 12/12/13- Autumn 15:37 2014 3 Foreword Arriving & Basics Nestling in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea is a jewel waiting to be discovered boasting breath-taking SYMBOL key coastlines, crystal clear waters and a rich historic back- ground. However, for many years Cagliari, the chief town, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted remained slightly off the beaten track as a tourist destina- tion. Indeed it was more of an arrival or departure point N No credit cards H Conference facilities for tourists travelling on to other destinations on the island. ESSENTIAL T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled Today good connections to mainland Italy and all major Eu- Cagliari In Your Pocket ropean cities mean that Cagliari is now firmly established [email protected] Y GUIDES F Fitness centre L Guarded parking on the map and attracts visitors from all over the world. www.inyourpocket.com Cagliari’s rich history can be traced in the beautiful architecture R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly which characterizes the heart of the city. It is in fact divided into ISSN: 2240-9912 © IYP Italia S.r.l. K Restaurant J Old town location four ancient districts (Castello, La Marina, Stampace and Vil- lanova) and each boasts unique character and its own wealth Published in Genoa by D Sauna C Swimming pool of gems. Rising up from the glistening waters of the port the IYP Italia S.r.l. con Socio unico highest point is Castello, which looks out majestically onto the Via San Vincenzo 2 - XI piano Cagliari - Elmas Airport © Giorgio Melis - SOGAER E Live music W Wi-Fi Gulf of Angels (Golfo degli Angeli) below down over the narrow 16121 Genoa, Italy cobbled streets of Stampace and La Marina districts. The pano- Printed by Sainas Industrie Grafiche, Villaspeciosa, Italy station and must be clipped once on board. If in a rush, rama unfolds over the bobbing sailboats in the harbour, across Arriving by plane tickets can also be bought on board the bus, but expect the new residential areas and the salt lakes of the Molentargius Maps courtesy of Comune di Cagliari and CTM S.p.A. Cagliari-Elmas Airport a surcharge. Saline Park and out towards Poetto Beach as far as the towering Located about 7km from the city centre, it is the biggest headland of Devil’s Saddle (Sella del Diavolo). Editor in Chief Maria Marongiu and busiest airport in Sardinia, well connected to most Bus Station (Stazione ARST) Cagliari is a bustling, vibrant city which has grown rapidly in Contributor Katharine Jenkins Design Vaida Gudynaitė major Italian and European destinations. It has car rental The bus station is very centrally located, adjacent to the recent years to combine places of great cultural interest with kiosks, ATMs, a tourist information desk (open 09:00 - train station and no more than a five-minute walk to important sporting events, entertainment and nightlife. Visitors Cover photo Molentargius Saline Park, © Patrizia Figus 19:00), conference facilities, a pharmacy and a small selec- piazza Yenne. Facilities include left luggage (deposito can spend their days strolling through the old town, visiting the tion of shops and food outlets. The cheapest and easiest bagagli), a fast food restaurant, an ATM and a Hertz car numerous galleries and museums and browsing craft shops, Sales Management Silvia Melis way to the city is to take a train. The railway station can be rental kiosk.QB-4, piazza Matteotti 9, tel. (+39) 070 73 or just sipping coffee in a bar while watching the world go by. Project Manager Lorenzo Marsano found by exiting the arrival hall and following the signs. 24 22 2/800 86 50 42, [email protected], However, the charm of Cagliari perhaps lies in the fact that in Special Thanks Antonina Gaspa, Rosa Olcese Trains to Cagliari depart up to four times per hour between www.arst.sardegna.it. Ticket office open 06:30 - 20:30. the transformation to a modern tourist destination the city has 06:00 and 22:20. The trip takes 5-6 minutes and costs managed to preserve the quaint and quirky atmosphere of a Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Cagliari n. 4 del 27/1/2012 €1.25. Alternatively, getting to the city centre takes be- sleepy, Mediterranean town steeped in ancient history and tween 10-15 minutes by taxi (€15 - 25), and add just a few Arriving by ferry traditions. So when you come to Cagliari enjoy a journey back Responsabile del trattamento dei dati (legge 675/96): more minutes if travelling by bus. Regional bus company Ferry terminals are just 100m west of the city centre, a Lorenzo Marsano through time, savour the fragrances, sample the delicacies and ARST operates from the airport to the bus station between few metres from the main bus and train stations. Tirrenia discover the city’s secrets but all in comfort and style. 05:20 and 22:30. Ticket is €4 when purchased in advance operates regular ferry services for passengers and vehicles or €5 from the driver. Have exact change ready when you to and from Civitavecchia and Naples in the mainland, About IYP buy the ticket on board.Qvia dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, Palermo in . tel. (+39) 070 21 12 11, fax (+39) 070 24 10 13, info@ It’s now 22 years since we published cagliariairport.it, www.cagliariairport.it. PUGW Tirrenia QA-4, Agenave, via Riva di Ponente, tel. the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilni- (+39) 070 66 60 65/(+39) 070 66 30 04, www.tirrenia.it. ESTONIA us in Lithuania - in which time we have Ticket office open 08:30 - 12:20, 16:15 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 Arriving by train - 12:20, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:00. LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher Trenitalia serves Cagliari-Elmas Airport (a c. 5 mins journey) NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Euro- IRELAND and all major Sardinian destinations, such as (c. IRELAND BELARUS pe. We now cover more than 100 cities Arriving by cruise ship NETHERLANDS 1hr 15mins), (c. 3hrs), Olbia (c. 3hrs 30mins) and POLAND across the continent and the number of GERMANY UKRAINE concise, witty, well-written and downri- Porto Torres (c. 4hrs). Cruise ships dock at the Rinascita and Sabaudo wharfs, con- BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC ght indispensable In Your Pocket guides veniently located just a few minutes walk from via Roma. AUSTRIA Train Station (Stazione ferroviaria) HUNGARY published each year is approaching SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA The station is just a few steps away from the city centre. SLOVENIACROATIA five million. We will be expanding even ITALY It has an ATM, a bar and a newsagent’s shop. There are Arriving by sailing boat BOSNIA SERBIA further in 2014, with the publication BULGARIA MONTENEGRO of a guide to the islands of the Dutch no left luggage facilities. Tickets must be clipped be- Marina di Portus Karalis FYR MACEDONIA fore boarding the train.QB-4, via Roma 22, tel. 199 89 20 ALBANIA Caribbean: our first in the Western He- Located in the section of the harbour facing via Roma, it’s GREECE misphere. 21/(+39) 06 30 00, www.trenitalia.it. Ticket office open a perfect spot for both small and huge vessels, and es- 06:15 - 13:10, 13:15 - 20:10. pecially if you want to remain close to the city, its shops, To keep up to date with all that’s new at restaurants and bars being all in very short walking dis- SOUTH AFRICA In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face- tance.QB/C-4, molo Dogana, tel. (+39) 070 65 35 35, fax book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us Arriving by bus (+39) 070 640 48 98, [email protected], www. on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Cagliari is linked to all major Sardinian destinations through portuskaralis.blogspot.it. Office open 09:00 - 13:00, the regional bus company ARST. Tickets are sold at the bus 15:00 - 18:30. 4 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 5 Arriving & Basics Arriving & Basics

Arriving by car Emergency numbers Mobile phones NATIONAL HOLIDAYS Cagliari is linked to major ferry ports Porto Torres (238km Thanks to the ongoing regulatory efforts at the EU-level, from Cagliari) and Olbia (274km) by dual carriageway roads mobile phone roaming rates are capped across all EU mem- There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these Carabinieri 112 SS131 and SS131dcn. ber states including Italy, which means that you can expect days city councils, post offices and banks are closed. Be sure to bring your driving licence, your car’s registration Police (Polizia) 113 to pay only €0.24 per minute for outgoing calls, €0.07 per Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international Fire Brigade (Vigili del fuoco) 115 minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per SMS sent. may also close or have reduced opening hours. green card, a reflective vest and a warning triangle. Depending on your phone usage, it’s well worth consid- Emergency Medical Assistance The speed limit on dual carriageway roads is 110 km/h, 118 ering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your Jan 1 ’s Day on non-urban roads is 90 km/h, on Cagliari’s inner ring road (Emergenza sanitaria) own phone. A prepaid account starts from around €20. To Jan 6 (Asse Mediano) 70 km/h, in urban areas 50 km/h, unless oth- Coast Guard (Guardia costiera) 1530 purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport. Apr 20 - 21, 2014 erwise indicated by road signs. Municipal Police (Polizia locale) (+39) 070 53 35 33 Apr 25 It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. Headlights Money May 1 have to be always turned on when driving on non-urban roads. Jun 2 Republic Day Drinking and driving is heavily fined. The legal limit is 0.5 g/l. Canada, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as A large part of the European Union has adopted the euro (€) Aug 15 Assumption Approaching Cagliari, signposting is sometimes confusing, as its local currency and Italy is no exception. One euro con- well as from many other countries. Oct 30 City Patron St Saturnin’s Day so we recommend to use a satellite navigation device or to tains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 euro Nov 1 All Souls’ Day have a map to hand. Traffic in the city is generally not too cents and 1, 2 euros; banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 bad, even during rush hour. When driving through the city Health & Pharmacies euros. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large Dec 8 Immaculate Conception Dec 25 you will see digital signs telling you how many spaces are Cagliari has three public hospitals (ospedale in Ital- banks, open Mon-Fri 08:30 - 13:15 and 14:30 - 16:00. Banks Dec 26 St Stephen’s Day free in the main car parks. ian) with emergency units. Although there can be long accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers. Many There are access restrictions for cars within city centre. queues for minor problems, more serious cases are usu- restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but Castello is off-limits during the night, while access to Mari- ally addressed professionally, swiftly and free of charge. to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some cash with you. na, Stampace and Villanova is also restricted during the day. Pharmacies (farmacia) are easily recognizable from the Safety luminous red or green cross on the outside. Opening Post It is generally safe to walk around, both day and night, espe- Disabled travellers hours generally follow similar time patterns to shops. A cially in the city centre and surrounding neighbourhoods. few pharmacies are open at night, on Sundays and pub- Post Office (Poste) Even the dark and narrow streets of the historical quarters Unfortunately Italy is not yet very well-equipped in terms lic holidays. These change on a weekly basis and the list You can buy stamps at tobacconists and drop off your don’t represent a serious threat. Although crime does exist of facilities for the disabled, and Cagliari is no exception, es- with addresses and phone numbers is always on display postcards in the red boxes around town or go straight to in town, it is not gang-related and does not normally con- pecially given the unfavourable layout of the old town. The on boards outside every single pharmacy in town as well this centrally located post office.QB-3, piazza del Car- sist of mugging, assaults or random beatings. Having said cobbled streets and steep steps that extend from Marina as at www.ordfarma.it. mine 27, tel. (+39) 070 605 41 64, www.poste.it. Open all this, it is also worth pointing out that some precautions up to Castello certainly aren’t ideal for wheelchair users. 08:20 - 19:05, Sat 08:20 - 12:35. Closed Sun. U should be taken. It is common sense not to venture out There are disabled parking spaces for those who require Ospedale Brotzu QF-1, piazzale Ricchi 1, tel. too far away from the centre at night, on foot and in dodgy them available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Park- (+39) 070 53 95 94. Open 24/7. Religion parts of town. If you see a group of people you don’t like ing Garage. Drivers with a disability sticker on their car can the look of, maybe it’s a good idea to just cross the street. also use any of the city’s designated parking spaces for free. Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di Dio QB-3, Latin Rite Catholicism is by far the largest religious group in Cagliari is not the sort of place where you can just jump via Ospedale 46, tel. (+39) 070 66 32 37. Open 24/7. Italy. Cagliari is said to have been a diocese since as early as on a passing-by taxi. If the situation gets particularly edgy, Electricity 70AD, although there are no written documents to prove it. call 112 (Carabinieri) or 113 (Police) for help. If possible, Ospedale Marino QH-2, lungomare Poetto, tel. There are a small mosque and an Evangelical Baptist church in find someone who speaks Italian to help you make the call Electricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round (+39) 070 609 43 05. Open 24/7. the central Marina quarter. Other places of worship are to be since there is no guarantee of finding an English speaker and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US, found in greater Cagliari (Muslim, Christian Orthodox, Church on the other end. of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints among others). Sardinia in a nutshell Language Every Sardinian speaks standard Italian. Sardinia has a Smoking & Alcohol Area: 23,821km2 language of its own, Sardinian, which is categorised in Tourist Information Smoking is not allowed in public places, such as bars, pubs, many different dialects and varieties. It is officially rec- clubs, restaurants, offices etc. There are however a few ven- Population: 1.675million ognised as a Neo-Latin language, just as Italian, French, Infopoint Aeroporto Elmas QCagliari- ues which have designated areas where smoking is permit- Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 12 81. Open 08:30 Capital city: Cagliari (pop. 156,000) Spanish or Catalan. Nevertheless, in Cagliari speakers of ted. Some hidden late-night pubs in the centre will turn the local version of Sardinian, known as Casteddaiu, are - 20:30. U a blind eye and bring an ashtray to your table in the early Other cities: Sassari (pop. 130,600), Quartu Sant’Elena growing thinner. Younger generations normally under- hours of the morning. (71,900), Olbia (57,000), Alghero (41,000), Nuoro stand it, but aren’t fluent speakers, as opposed to their Infopoint Molo Sanità QB-4, molo Sanità, According to Italian law, alcohol cannot be legally sold to (36,200), Oristano (31,900) parents or grandparents. tel. (+39) 338 649 84 98, infopoint.cagliari@gmail. people under 18. However, it is unlikely that a teenager will com, www.infopointcagliari.it. Open 08:00 - 20:00. not be served a drink at a bar or have his purchase rejected Highest point: Punta La Marmora, Gennargentu Mas- in a supermarket. sif (1,834m) Local time X-MEM QA-3, MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo, Longest river: Tirso (150km) From March 30th to October 26th, Italy is in the Central via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 342 342 20 10, mediateca@ European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30, Telephone numbers Largest lake: Omodeo Reservoir (29km2) year the clock ticks according to the Central European 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. RUW All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing em- Time Zone, or GMT+1. pire list country codes before all telephone numbers. 6 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 7 Arriving & Basics Culture & Events The Italian country code is (+39), but of course, you Weather only have to use this if you’re dialing from abroad. If eVEnTS you’re already in Italy and want to call one of the num- Temperature Rainfall, bers in this guide, just ignore the (+39) prefix and dial Date Time Event Venue Month min/max, °C mm the number. Classical, Opera & Ballet May J 6/14 46 1 20:30 Norma, opera, music by V. Bellini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI F 6/15 57 Tipping 2 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, F.J. Haydn. LI 3 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, F.J Haydn. LI M 7/16 44 Tipping is not usually expected, as most places include a service charge in the bill. However, tips are always 4 17:00 Norma, opera, music by V. Bellini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI A 9/18 37 welcome and can be left on the table or counter, or 9 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: S. Prokofev, R. Strauss. LI M 12/22 24 even handed over personally to the waiter/bartender. 10 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: S. Prokofev, R. Strauss. LI 24 19:00 Music for flute and piano. Programme includes: J.S. Bach, F. Schubert, G. Rossini. LI J 16/27 9 27 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI J 19/30 3 Visas Lirico of Cagliari. 28 20:30 Quartet from Venice. Proframme: W.A Mozart, A. Casella, L. van Beethoven. LI A 19/30 8 Sardinia is part of Italian national territory and there- fore Schengen Agreement rules apply. However, all EU 29 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI S 17/27 31 nationals need at least an ID card when boarding air- Lirico of Cagliari. 30 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI O 14/23 56 planes and ferries, while non-EU nationals will require a passport for a stay of up to three months. Depending Lirico of Cagliari. N 9/18 56 on the country of origin, some foreigners might need a 31 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI D 7/15 55 visa. Please enquire at Italian embassies or consulates Lirico of Cagliari. for current bilateral agreements with your country. June 1 17:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. HISTORY 3, 4 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico LI of Cagliari. 6000-4000BC Human activity begins in the area of man Empire. 5, 6 11:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Cagliari. Archaeological findings suggest that the terri- 1720 Following the Treaty of The Hague, Victor Ama- Lirico of Cagliari. tory has been continuously inhabited ever since. deus II, Duke of Savoy, is granted the title of King of 6 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI 7th century BC Phoenician colonists found Karalis. Sardinia. The port of Cagliari and its position along Lirico of Cagliari. 5th century BC Carthage takes control of Cagliari and the main Mediterranean commercial routes help re- 7 19:00 P. Vernikov and soloists from the Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: LI Sardinia. store the city’s political and strategic importance. W.A. Mozart, S. Prokofev, J. Brahms, J. Strauss. 8 17:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI 238BC Following the first Punic War, Sardinia becomes 1793 The French fleet lays siege to Cagliari, shelling Lirico of Cagliari. a Roman province. Cagliari soon becomes an impor- the city and unsuccessfully attempting to land east 21 19:00 Soloists from the Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: M. Ravel, M. Mu- LI tant naval hub for fleets engaged in wars in Northern of Poetto Beach. sorgskij. Africa. 1799-1814 During the Napoleonic Wars and the 25, 26 19:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 456 The Vandals occupy Cagliari. In 474 they take con- occupation of , the Savoy family, who had 27 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI trol of the whole of Sardinia. been ousted from their court in Turin, resides in the July 534 Sardinia is annexed by the Byzantine Empire Royal Palace in Cagliari. 2, 5, 9, 12, 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI which, over the following centuries, loses control of 1861 Sardinia becomes part of the unified Italian 16, 19, 23, the island, leaving it in a state of anarchy. state. Cagliari gradually opens up to industrial and 26, 30 10th-11th century Sardinia is divided in four autono- commercial investments, its old defense walls get August mous realms, called giudicati: Arborea, Gallura, Torres pulled down, its urban landscape begins to be mod- 2, 6, 9, 13, 16 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI and Cagliari. The Genoese and Pisan maritime repub- ernized with new architectural styles (Neo-Classical, September lics establish a military presence and commercial ac- Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau) and places such as via 19 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: L. van Beethoven, F. Schubert. LI tivities along the Sardinian coast. Roma, Saint Remy Rampart and the annexed Indoor 20 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: L. van Beethoven, F. Schubert. LI 1258 The Pisans defeat the giudicato of Cagliari, de- Promenade. 24 20:30 Music for violin and piano. Programme includes: C. Debussy, M. Ravel, G. Gershwin. LI stroying the capital Santa Igia and occupying the hill 1943 Cagliari suffers heavy bombing by Allied air 27 19:00 Soprano and piano music. Programme includes: H. Wolff, J. Brahms, G. Gershwin. LI of present-day Castello, founding Castel di Castro. They forces. October erect the first ring of fortified walls which also includes 1948 Sardinia obtains the status of Autonomous Re- 1,2 19:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI the area of Marina, facing the harbour. gion and Cagliari is chosen as the seat of the local 3 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 1324 The arrival of the Aragonese marks the start of government and the regional assembly. In the fol- 5 17:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI Spanish domination in Cagliari. Sardinia itself becomes lowing decades the city expands both inland and to- 6 11:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI a kingdom, governed by a viceroy, and its capital wards the sea, becoming what is now an urban con- 7, 8 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI changes names to Càller. tinuum which includes Elmas, Assemini, Monserrato, 9 11:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 1713 At the end of the War of the Spanish Succession, Selargius, Quartucciu and Quartu Sant’Elena, with a 10 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI the Treaty of Utrecht assigns Sardinia to the Holy Ro- total population of around 370,000. 11 19:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI

8 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 9 Culture & Events Where to stay Cream of the crop from panoramic suites, deluxe or classic rooms, this ho- EVEnTS tel has it all. Menus conceived by chef of T Restaurant Forte Village Date Time Event Venue are based on seasonal produce, representing traditional The exclusive Forte Village resort, situated 40km south-west Sardinian dishes and the modern Mediterranean cuisine. 12 17:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI of Cagliari, is renowned for its quality and excellence. It is November A superb spa centre will take you on a regenerating jour- one of the world’s leading resorts and winner of numerous 5, 6 19:00 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI ney of wellness and fitness, welcoming you to the vast awards, including the World Travel award 2013. The resort is 7 20:30 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI hydrotherapy pool, Turkish bath and emotional show- now even more luxurious with a make-over of the executive 8 19:00 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI ers. The exclusive treatments are rooms and a new stunning villa and suites. The 21 restau- 9 17:00 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI a must and the fully trained staff will welcome you in a rants offer an incredible culinary variety, with cuisine from 11, 12 20:30 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI discreet, professional setting. The hotel has seven confer- 13, 14 11:00 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI all over the world, impeccable service and Michelin stars, ence rooms, that can hold up to 800 guests.QG-1, via dei 14 20:30 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI as well as top international chefs. Always avant-garde, it Giudicati 66, tel. (+39) 070 47 400, fax (+39) 070 47 40 16 17:00 La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI boasts the first Hell’s Kitchen restaurant in the world. The 16, [email protected], www.thotel.com. 207 rooms 22 20:30 The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI swimming pools are immersed in the rich vegetation of (singles €109 - 219, doubles €129 - 279, suites €199 - 23 17:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI the gardens and there is a private white sandy beach. The 409, executive suite €300 - 459). Breakfast included. 25, 26, 27, 28 20:30 The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI resort offers a wide range of sports and academies with PHAUFLKW hhhh 29 19:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI international champions to improve your technique. It 30 17:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI welcomes children and has a kids club with lots of activities and also a new Bio Park where children can learn about lo- Upmarket Pop & Jazz cal farm animals while for total relaxation guests can spoil May Caesar’s themselves at the wellness centre with thalassotherapy This hotel invites you in this open air grand foyer with a 31 Sardegna Chiama - Paolo Fresu and Friends, Charity Concert AGE and spa.QSS 195, km 39.600, Santa Margherita di Pula, July beautiful skylight. The rooms offer every comfort a travel- tel. (+39) 070 921 88 18, fax (+39) 070 92 12 64, @ 1 Maria Gadù - Brazilian Jazz Singer and Composer PDM ler needs. Da Cesare restaurant feels warm and welcoming fortevillage.com, www.fortevillageresort.com. Open May 11 Cristiano De André - Pop PDM and the dishes are simple and traditional, though pre- - mid-October. 750 rooms. (from €275 per person HB). 18 Volcan - Latin Jazz PDM pared and served with great care, it can also cater privately PTHAUFLBKCW hhhhh 31 Testament - Metal AGE for groups. With ten conference rooms that can hold up August to 300 people, this hotel may be the answer to your busi- 12 Sean Kuti & The Egypt 80 - Afro Beat PDM Pullman Timi Ama Sardegna ness needs.QG-3, via Darwin 2-4, tel. (+39) 070 34 07 30 Caparezza Museica Tour - Pop AGE Pullman Hotels are a guarantee of quality and luxury and 50, fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, [email protected], www. Timi Ama Sardegna is no exception. This five star hotel of- caesarshotel.it. 48 rooms (singles €79 - 150, doubles fers guests first class services, all modern comforts and an €129 - 200, triples €119 - 149, junior suites €129 - 159). Venues exclusive atmosphere on one of the most beautiful beach- Breakfast included. PHAULKW hhhh Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) KEY es in the south of Sardinia, just 57km from Cagliari. The ho- After the destruction of Teatro Civico di Castello during the tel unfolds in subtle pastel colours before a breath-taking Holiday Inn Cagliari AGE - Arena Grandi Eventi, G-3, via Vespucci second world war a new project for a new Opera House panorama of the glistening waters of the lagoon and the The moment you walk into this stylish hotel lobby you are wel- LI - Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) was brought to light in 1964. A project that over the years crystal clear sea beyond. It is in a stunning location, nest- comed by vibrant contemporary paintings that brighten the PDM - Parco della Musica, G-1, via dei Giudicati 16 transformed into what we call today Teatro Lirico di Cagliari. ling in the lush Mediterranean vegetation inside the pro- entrance and instantly make you feel at home. Conveniently A beautifully designed and prestigious Opera House that tected area of Capo Carbonara. Professional staff welcome located between the city centre and the airport, the Holiday can host up to 1,650 spectators. The stage and the orchestra existing theatre. As a public institution, throughout the guests into an oasis of wellness and leisure where they Inn Cagliari offers a wide range of top class amenities and each pit were built first, the rehearsal rooms, workrooms, store decades it both thrived and floundered and was almost can just sit back and spoil themselves or enjoy numerous room is elegantly furnished with attention to detail and all rooms and office premises were built over the years while completely destroyed during the 1943 bombings, which sporting activities, including water sports. The Thalasso the comforts of a four-star hotel to guarantee a great night’s the foyer, a new bookshop, the bar and an elegant restau- only left the lobby and the perametre walls standing. It and Spa guarantees total relaxation while the three res- sleep. Guests are better off having a car to move around, rant were the latest addition and renovation project to be was brought back to its original splendour in 2006 and has taurants offer an exceptional culinary variety in a sophis- since the bus service isn’t the most frequent.QF-1, viale Tic- completed. The Teatro Lirico was finally inaugurated in 1993. since become a point of reference for drama and comedy ticated and elegant environment.Qviale dei Ginepri 3, ca 23, tel. (+39) 070 53 79, fax (+39) 070 211 04 01, info@ With its own orchestra and chorus which play a leading role lovers in town.QB-3, via De Candia, tel. (+39) 070 677 Villasimius, tel. (+39) 070 79 791, fax (+39) 070 79 72 hicagliari.com, www.holidayinn.com/cagliari. 92 rooms in many prestigious productions, the Opera House is open 76 60, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 85, [email protected], www.pullmanhotels.com/gb/ (singles €50 - 180, doubles €70 - 200). Breakfast included. all year long with rich concert, opera and ballet seasons. 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. U hotel-3040-pullman-timi-ama-sardegna/index.shtml. PHALKDCW hhhh QB-1, via Sant’Alenixedda, tel. (+39) 070 408 22 30/(+39) Open 26 April - mid-October. 275 rooms (classic €312 070 408 22 49, fax (+39) 070 408 22 23, biglietteria@ - 742, superior €376 - 862, executive €426 - 990, deluxe Miramare teatroliricodicagliari.it, www.teatroliricodicagliari.it. Box €446 - 1146, suites €464 - 1530). Breakfast included. With a spectacular view over the harbour, this enchanting office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00 PTHARUFLBKCW hhhhh boutique hotel will simply take your breath away. Mira- and one hour before show time. Closed Sun. UK mare takes a charming listed building from the late 1800s T Hotel and brings it into the 21st century. The inviting and warm Teatro Civico di Castello This sleek hotel has been the host to politicians, famous living room will most definitely make you feel at home. The Teatro Civico is ideally located at the bottom end of footballers and stars. The superb and stylish open space Intertwining old and modern, culture and art, each room Castello and only a few minutes walk up the hill from the entrance that overlooks the bistro bar and restaurant con- has been carefully designed with the client in mind. Those shopping street via Manno. It is a living monument in stantly exhibits works by local and international artists. who cherish their thirst for luxury will be delighted to find itself, since the structure was originally built in 1836 fol- From family rooms ready to cater every family’s need to tastefully decorated rooms and bathrooms. Breakfast to die lowing architect Gaetano Cima’s project, on the site of an © Teatro Lirico di Cagliari the hi-tech suite to fulfil every business traveller’s dream; for complete with freshly-baked goodies, fruit and coffee. 10 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 11 Where to stay Where to stay It also features a small internal garden and one particular egance used to be. The rooms are spacious, clean and also hotelitaliacagliari.com, www.hotelitaliacagliari.com. locations. Exquisite!QB-3/4, via Roma 75, tel. (+39) 335 suite has it all for itself. You can also experience the mod- equipped with a mini bar. The staff is friendly, welcoming and 100 rooms (37 singles €58 - 72, 54 doubles €72 - 100, 7 812 58 81/(+39) 070 289 04 77, [email protected], ern comfort of a massage room and Ayurveda treatments. will be happy to give you directions and tips when planning triples €90 - 145, 2 quads €120 - 160). Breakfast includ- www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it. 3 rooms (singles QB-3/4, via Roma 59, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 40 21, info@ your days in or out of town.QB-3, via Angioy 27, tel. (+39) 070 ed. PTJHA6GW hhh €60 - 90, doubles €75 - 120). PJNBXW hotelmiramarecagliari.it, www.hotelmiramarecagliari. 66 85 35, fax (+39) 070 66 60 87, [email protected], www. it. 18 rooms (singles €127 - 304, doubles €159 - 319). hotel4mori.it. 42 rooms (singles €65, doubles €85, suites Elizabeth Breakfast included. PJA6IW hhhh €130). Breakfast included. PJAU hhh Budget Elizabeth is a small and cosy establishment in a narrow cob- A&R Bundes Jack bled street of Villanova. It has two double bedrooms, shar- Panorama Calamosca A small family business hotel above the arcades of via ing one bathroom, which is kept remarkably clean. Breakfast Offering spectacular views of the gulf of Cagliari, ideally lo- For those seeking a peaceful location out of the city centre, this Roma, it offers front row views of Cagliari’s port from the is served in an elegant though informal room in the winter cated in a smart residential area of town, it’s within walking hotel is ideal. It offers splendid views of the gulf of Cagliari and moment you walk in. First opened in 1938, this hotel was and in the back garden during the warmer months. Those distance from the city centre (approximately 30 minutes) a panoramic terrace for romantic dinner. The hotel is awaiting part of the elite and crème de la crème of Cagliari’s hotels. seeking privacy can also choose to have breakfast in their and a ten-minute bus ride from Poetto Beach. The hotel further renovation but the ground floor has been completely Famous ballerinas and high society people have stepped room.QC-2, via San Giovanni 60, tel. (+39) 328 283 31 15, is elegant and welcoming. Belvedere restaurant offers its refurbished. Guests can relax in the beautiful gardens of Le their foot and slept in this hotel’s domains. Each room is [email protected], www.elizabethbb.com. 2 rooms: guests a fantastic panoramic view of the city while enjoy- Terrazze next door and lazy on the private pebble beach. The decorated with impeccably maintained antique furniture. (singles €40 - 45, doubles €70 - 75). JNGW ing a candle lit dinner service. It also boasts the elegant more active can enjoy nature walks up to the Devil’s​ Saddle There is also a common space with a small antique bar Panorama cafe, an outdoor swimming pool, conference (Sella del Diavolo) headland or rent bikes to explore the many tucked in a corner from where Mr Palmas will entertain Fior di Loto and meeting roomsQG-3, viale Diaz 231, tel. (+39) 070 cycle paths. There is a regular bus service into town.QH-4, and delight his guests with a glass of vernaccia of his own This charming B&B is located near the Marina district and 30 76 91, fax (+39) 070 30 54 13, info@hotelpanorama. viale Calamosca 50, tel. (+39) 070 37 16 28, fax (+39) 070 37 production.QB-3/4, via Roma 75, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 is convenient for public transport, the train station and the it, www.hotelpanorama.it. 100 rooms (30 singles €70 - 03 46, [email protected], www.hotelcalamosca.it. 79 70, [email protected]. 14 rooms (singles port. The B&B is in a historic building which has been com- 110, 50 doubles €90 - 190, 20 suites €124 - 235). Break- 47 rooms (singles €50 - 120, doubles €80 - 120, triples €100 €52 - 72, doubles €92 - 102). PJNW hh pletely renovated to offer three stylish bedrooms with all fast included. PHAUFLKCW hhhh - 140, suites €100 - 160). Breakfast included. PA6L� modern comforts. The rich breakfast is served in an elegant BKW hhh La Terrazza breakfast room and the friendly staff will do all they can to Regina Margherita This family owned hotel is a hidden gem in the old town. make your stay unforgettable.QA-3, viale Trieste 56, tel. Located just steps away from Saint Remy Rampart, this styl- Due Colonne The rooms are neat and clean offering views of Cas- (+39) 070 756 71 66/(+39) 335 785 01 99, bbfiordiloto@ ish hotel has been beautifully and elegantly decorated with This hotel is located in the heart of Cagliari’s historical city cen- tello, the city and harbour of Cagliari. Cosy living room gmail.com, www.fiordilotocagliari.com. 3 rooms (singles a modern touch while maintaining and intertwining design tre. Cosy and relaxing atmosphere, beautifully refurbished and and friendly service it’s the perfect place to came back €45 - 60, doubles €70 - 80). PTJA6W with the tradition of hospitality. The rooms have been elegant- refined rooms. The staff is very friendly and helpful. Though ‘home’ to after a long day of sightseeing and shopping. ly decorated and are warm and welcoming. If you are looking there isn’t a restaurant on the premises, the hotel offers a fam- QB-3, via Santa Margherita 21, tel. (+39) 070 66 86 Livingstone for space, luxury and just peace of mind as well as top notch ily style breakfast room, where you can enjoy your afternoon 52, fax (+39) 070 66 08 63, [email protected], Situated in a handy position for those using public trans- customer service you will most definitely find it here.QC-3, tea after a long day of sightseeing and shopping.QB-3, via www.laterrazzahotel.com. 14 rooms (singles €50 - 60, port, just five minutes walk from the train and bus stations, viale Regina Margherita 44, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 42, fax Sardegna 4, tel. (+39) 070 65 87 10, fax (+39) 070 65 47 83, doubles €70 - 80, triples €90 - 100). Breakfast included. this B&B welcomes its guest with a large common area. (+39) 070 66 83 25, [email protected], [email protected], www.hotel2colonne.it. 23 PJA6W hh All rooms are fully equipped, modern, spotless and have www.hotelreginamargherita.com. 84 rooms (singles €95 - rooms (singles €70, doubles €114 - 135, suites €145). Break- an exotic touch. The owner is well travelled and his expe- 148, doubles €120 - 195, suites €231). Breakfast included. fast included. PTJAUW hhh rience in tourism shows when it comes to meeting high PTJHALGW hhhh B&Bs standards and speaking English, French, German or Span- Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria Almea ish. He can also arrange pick-up service to and from the Sardegna Situated on one of the main routes into Cagliari and not far This B&B is conveniently located in a smart, residential part airport.QA-3, via XXIX Novembre 6, tel. (+39) 347 433 23 Through antiques and retro furniture this luxurious hotel by car from the city centre and Poetto Beach. The rooms are of town, close to main roads, public transport, the sta- 83, [email protected]. 3 rooms (singles €35 - 45, blends old and modern design in a simple and elegant way. fairly spacious and comfortable. Communal areas are nicely dium and the basketball/volleyball arena. The rooms are doubles €60 - 70). PJNGXW The relaxing ambient, timeless taste, tradition and sleek de- furnished and include a breakfast bar and conference rooms spacious and clean and there is a comfy communal living sign set for a great start on your way to discover Cagliari. Clean, to accommodate your business meetings.QF-1, circonval- room. The homemade breakfast is served by the very hos- spacious rooms and bathrooms offer luxurious comfort. The lazione di Pirri, angolo via Santa Maria Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 pitable host. Overall, the feeling of the place is friendly and Hostels American bar is great for socialising and relaxation while the 451 93 00, fax (+39) 02 49 52 23 11, reservation.cagliari@ definitely homely.QG-3, via Rockefeller 27, tel. (+39) 328 Cagliari Hostel Marina spacious lounge equipped with large plasma screen TVs give ideahotel.it, www.ideahotel.it. 129 rooms (singles €45 - 70, 009 51 51, [email protected]. 3 rooms (singles €35 - In what used to be a school in the heart of the city, you’ll find you that homely feeling. Baby-sitting is available for those who doubles €55 - 80). Breakfast included. PHALGW 40, doubles €70 - 75). PLNGXW the hostel, which was inaugurated in 2009. It has a large inner- would love to enjoy a relaxing dinner at La Scala restaurant or hhh courtyard and a spacious common room, which is also the to simply take a moment for themselves.QE-1, via Lunigiana Antica Residenza Marina di Castello area dedicated to the well stocked hostel bar. The bar is lively, 50, tel. (+39) 070 28 62 45, fax (+39) 070 29 04 69, info@ Italia On the top floor of a fine historic building facing the port popular and it organises plenty of weekend events, live music, sardegnahotelcagliari.it, www.sardegnahotelcagliari.it. 84 In the heart of the Marina district, this hotel’s central and the sunshine, this elegant though cosy flat guarantees dj sets, thus entertaining international backpackers and locals rooms (singles €91 - 103, doubles €120 - 137, suites €202). location makes it ideal for a city break, for business or some of the best rooms in town. They’re spacious, newly alike. The rooms and the dorms all have en-suite bathrooms Breakfast included. PTA6LKW hhhh pleasure. It has recently undergone a make-over and done, clean and all have cutting edge en-suite bathrooms. and many of them have mezzanine floors and lovely wooden now offers all modern comforts. The renovation project The common area, where guests can make their own cof- ceilings, as well as fridges and TVs.QB-3, scalette San Sepol- includes a new bar area which will offer a light-lunch ser- fees, teas and cold snacks, looks up towards the Elephant cro 2, tel. (+39) 070 67 08 18, [email protected], www. Mid-range vice. The hotel offers rooms of various sizes and two fully Tower and the southern bastions of Castello. There is also a hostelmarinacagliari.com. 35 rooms. Rates per person: 4 Mori equipped conference rooms. There is a library for guests fabulous panoramic terrace for guests, which looks onto the single room €40, double room €30, triple/quad room This hotel is located in the lower part of the Stampace quar- and the hotel organizes wine tasting events and tempo- harbour and the Gulf of Angels, for breakfast and romantic €25, dormitory €22. Children 6-12 pay 50%, U6 free. Extra ter, right behind the Town Hall and the train station. It features rary art exhibitions by local artists.QB-3, via Sardegna 31, aperitifs al fresco. Restaurants, cafés and bars literally just charge for Hostelling International membership €2. Break- a spacious entrance which is a reminder of what lux and el- tel. (+39) 070 66 04 10, fax (+39) 070 65 02 40, info@ yards away, same as bus stops to Poetto Beach and other fast included. PJHAEGXW 12 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 13 Where to eat Where to eat

Fast food beautiful stone floors and walls. It offers traditional Italian arselle (Sardinian pasta with clams), and is well-known for Price Guide cuisine but revisited by the chef’s creative touch to pres- its fish platters. The home made Sardinian desserts are Le Patate & Co. ent a rich menu of original combinations, but also Sardin- definitely worth leaving a space for! At weekends in the € expect to have more than enough to eat and not This charming innovative take away restaurant is located ian specialities. The house pièce de résistance is the pan- summer months there is also some seating outside.Qvia spend more than €12 - 15 in the heart of the Marina district in a historic building. seared tuna steak. To complete your meal don’t forget the Porcile 7, tel. (+39) 070 66 33 50/(+39) 368 313 50 07. €€ a two course-meal and some table wine could cost There are some tables and chairs outside for those who delicious home made desserts!QB-3, via Cavour 48, tel. Open 12:30 - 15:30, 19:30 - 23:00. €€. PTJAG you between €20 - 25 want to eat their purchases in comfort but there is no table (+39) 070 756 85 36, [email protected]. Open 12:30 - 15:00, €€€ a full three-course meal won’t cost you less than service. Le Patate & Co. offers a vast menu specialising in 19:30 - 22:30. Closed Tue. €€€. PTJAUGB Lord Nelson €35 fried fish and chips, but freshly prepared and fried in olive This charming restaurant, in rigorous sea-faring style is just €€€€ you’re in a top-end restaurant and be prepared oil. You will be spoilt for choice! There are also interna- La Grotta out of the city centre, but well worth a visit. It has a small to spend over €50 tional beers and Sardinian wines to accompany your feast. This small, friendly restaurant lies just off via Roma. It is dining room, where wood prevails, as well as portraits of QB-3, scalette San Sepolcro 1, tel. (+39) 347 137 78 68, ideal for lunch, offering a welcome break from sightseeing the Admiral himself, of course. The restaurant offers tradi- [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - during the day, or for a leisurely dinner in the lively Marina tional and specialises in fish dishes. The chef Agriturismo 24:00. €. JGB district in the evening. La Grotta offers traditional Italian uses only the finest, freshest ingredients in his delicious cuisine and many local specialities, such as fregola con le creations and the extensive menu will satisfy even the Su Cuile Zaza doner kebab Just a 10 minute drive from Cagliari and you can immerge This colourful kebab house boasts the best Kurdish and yourself in rural life and sample delicious home-cooking. Turkish food in town. Right in the city centre it is ideal for Sardinian Cuisine This educational farm allows visitors to experience tradi- a bite on the hoof, but there is also seating inside where tional country life first hand and has a policy of zero-km, you can enjoy your genuine Turkish kebab and so much Sardinian cuisine lives up to the expectations that visi- d’oeuvres, consisting of different small plates, whose meaning only home grown ingredients and meat from the more. Tasty sandwiches, vegetable falafel, hot-dogs, chips tors may have when approaching an Italian restaurant. given intention is to set your body and soul for more farm is used. Eliana will propose a delicious seasonal menu and roast potatoes, grab something different each time Despite its openness and general hospitality, the island food, but are often so generous that they represent a for lunch or dinner and vegetarians are welcome. The farm you pass! But don’t forget the delicious home made des- remains tightly rooted to its social and cultural traditions whole meal. The first course is mostly based on pasta specialities are panada (meat or vegetable pie), roast suck- serts, such favourites as baklava, kadayif and revani.QB-3, and food is no exception. Sardinians are jealously bound or rice, in a virtually countless variety of shapes, sizes ling pig and for dessert seadas (fried cheese pastries with via Santa Margherita 2, tel. (+39) 328 978 21 06. Open to the old recipes, passed on generation after genera- and condiments. Second courses are usually meat or honey) and typical Sardinian biscuits. Book in advance 11:00 - 04:00. €. PTJGS tion. Even if Sardinian cities are by all means modern fish, and maybe a vegetable-based side dish. Therefore for a guided tour of the farm before your meal and why and European, inland it remains essentially rural and the concept itself of a main course doesn’t really exist in not request a workshop to make cheese, pasta, bread represents a culinary goldmine. Restaurants have ac- Sardinia, so forget those large plates with a mixture of and even milk cows to complete your visit!QGrogastu, Italian cess to an official and unofficial market of fresh goods, rice, meat and vegetables, which are typical of Northern Assemini, tel. (+39) 333 817 93 90/(+39) 339 157 31 26, Hostaria Sa Osa coming from the countryside, the hills and mountains. European cuisine. Having said this, when ordering food [email protected], www.sucuilepeddio.it. Book in This elegant restaurant is in the heart of the Marina district. Often city chefs rely on a thick network of small farm- in a restaurant do not in any way feel obliged to go for advance. €€. PTA6UGB Inside it is modern, but stylish and welcoming and features ers, butchers, fishermen and hunters from whom they the whole shebang. You can easily browse through the get the freshest vegetables, traditionally made cheeses, menu and carefully select your options, especially when hams and sausages, but also game, such as wild boar, you have company to share your meal with. hare, dear and different types of birds. Sardinians eat quite late, even for continental Italian Oristano is also blessed by the constant inflow of fresh standards. In this respect, Spanish influence is still to be seafood, both in markets and in restaurants. This tradi- felt. Lunch won’t be much before 13:00 and can go on tion has been enhanced by top restaurants and chefs, until 16:00, depending where you are and how much which often blend the classic local dishes with more you’re prepared to eat. Dinner is not before 20:00, but is modern and sophisticated atmospheres, cooking tech- often much later... Most restaurants, having been open niques and tastes. The final result is a culinary experi- for lunch, give their kitchen staff a few hours break in the ence which is more often than not enticing, surprising afternoon, meaning that chefs don’t get back to their and fulfilling. stoves and start preparing for the evening meals before Restaurants generally serve ample portions through- 18:30. Give them enough time to do what they’re best out all the courses. The typical meal is made of hors at, or else you might be disappointed.

14 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 15 Where to eat Where to eat

most demanding palates. Impeccable service and polite such mouth-watering delights, but the house pièce de Sardinian Ice-cream parlours staff complete your gourmet experience.Qvia Tevere 2, résistance is the starters tasting menu which will satisfy tel. (+39) 070 29 10 50/(+39) 349 870 22 15. Open 13:00 even the most demanding palate. The menu changes de- San Domenico Bobocono - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00, Mon 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. pending on the season and fresh fish available, there is a This small, cosy restaurant specialises in traditional Italian This small ice cream parlour is a little off the beaten track €€€. PTA good selection of Sardinian wines and delicious home- cuisine, both meant and fish, but offers many Sardinian but those in the know gladly take the stroll for their fa- made desserts to complete your meal. Book in advance at gourmet delights. It is a family run business with a wel- vourite flavour. Bobocono prides itself on its perfect blend Man.Gia. Senza Glutine weekends.QB-3, via Principe Amedeo 18, tel./fax (+39) coming atmosphere and prides itself on using only the of tradition and creativity. The home-made ice cream is The first gluten free restaurant-pizzeria in Italy, Man.Gia. of- 070 65 42 20, [email protected], www. freshest ingredients. Diners are spoilt for choice among lovingly prepared with only the finest ingredients to cre- fers a delicious, healthy menu which maintains flavour while martinellis.it. Open 12:30 - 14:00, 20:30 - 24:00. Closed the delicious starters, pasta dishes and second courses, ate some of the tastiest ice cream in town. The secret be- putting your wellbeing first. Just five minutes’ walk from the Sun. €€€. PJA6G however the tasty mixed starters are a house speciality, hind the exquisite taste lies in the natural ingredients and town centre this welcoming restaurant is well worth the as is the fritto misto (lightly fried fish dish). Don’t forget fresh fruit, from rich chocolate flavours to delicate, fruity stroll. Diners will appreciate the family atmosphere while to leave room for the home made desserts!QC-3, via El- tangs, there is something for everyone!Qvia Oristano enjoying excellent service and, for many, a new experience Pizzerias eonora d’Arborea 53, tel. (+39) 070 65 54 06. Open 13:00 23, tel. (+39) 070 311 01 25, [email protected], www. in Italian cuisine. Man.Gia. boasts only the freshest and Vai che ce n’è di più - 14:30, 20:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon. €€. bobocono.it. Open 13:00 - 03:00. Nov closed Mon. finest ingredients which are lovingly transformed into ap- This pizzeria is a true Cagliari down-to-earth classic. Small PJAG Closed Dec - Jan. PTJG petising dishes which make up the rigorously gluten free and really busy, this place is located in what used to be menu. It is the perfect blend of tradition and innovation in a fairly rough and downmarket part of town, but which Cafés & bistros the kitchen, specialising in home-made gluten free pasta is now drastically improving, with new building develop- dishes, but also tasty salads, vegetables and fish dishes, ments, shops and restaurants all over. There’s a selection Café Barcellona and of course gluten free beer. Book in advance at week- of around sixty different pizzas to choose from, but if Right in the heart of the Marina district this small snack ends.QA-3, via Mameli 196, tel. (+39) 070 204 19 40/ you’ve already had too much of it, their huge beef or horse bar offers outdoor seating where you can just sit back (+39) 334 770 64 97, [email protected], www. steaks, served with roast or fried potatoes, are famous in and watch the world go by while sipping your cold mangiasenzaglutine.it. Open 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. town... so be prepared for a difficult choice. Staff is friendly beer or enjoying a tasty snack. Open from breakfast to €€€. PTAUGBS and helpful. The pizzaiolo (the man who actually makes dinner and beyond Café Barcellona is a great place to your pizza) works behind a glass screen, so can see the stop for a bite at any time of the day. The menu is good Martinelli’s whole pizza-making process live in front of you.QF-1, value for money and offers snacks and salads, but also This cosy restaurant is conveniently located in the Marina viale Sant’Avendrace 319, tel. (+39) 329 115 65 53. Open pizza, pasta dishes and a typical Sardinian cold cut district. It specializes in fish dishes and boasts only the 19:30 - 00:30. Closed Mon. €. PAGB platter.QB-3, via Barcellona 84, tel. (+39) 070 732 10 best, freshest ingredients. Martinelli’s prides itself on its 35, [email protected]. Open 07:30 - 03:00. PT� rich menu which blends traditional Italian cuisine with italy.inyourpocket.com JAGBX original combinations. Diners are spoilt for choice before Choco & Tea Many original features of the 19th century coach house have been maintained in what is now a refined tea room and chocolate shop. Choco & Tea boasts many mouth- watering delicacies including handmade ice-cream, local cakes, wines, sweets and chocolates, not to mention the best cappuccinos in town! You’ll be spoilt for choice with a Sardinian, Italian and international menu at lunchtime and unable to resist the many options available for an exquisite afternoon tea. Choco & Tea is right in the heart of the old town - perfect for that shopping break with a difference. QB-3, via Cima 7, tel./fax (+39) 070 68 05 22, info@ chocoandtea.it. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. PTJAUGBXW

16 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 17 Nightlife What to see Bars Clubs Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) Castello The museum hosts the Treasure of the Cathedral, which Caffè dell’Elfo Ritual Castello in Sardinian is called Castedd’e susu, which had long remained under lock and key. Among the most This small and cosy establishment is the typical example Originally a stable, then a powder factory for ammunition means ‘upper castle’, because this is what it was and, interesting works on display, a 15th century triptych, of what can certainly be considered a gay friendly café/ during the Pisan period and now a very lively nightlife disco from an architectural point of view, still is. known as the Triptych of Clement VII, allegedly by Flem- bar in Cagliari. The atmosphere is relaxed and the brick that remains open till the wee hours of the morning. Walk- Castello is perched on the top of a white rock which ish painter Rogier Van der Weyden. Rich 16th, 17th and walls and ceilings give it an aura of elegance and old age. ing into Ritual is like taking a journey back in time. This mag- looks directly onto the gulf of Cagliari. The site was used 18th liturgical vestments can be seen, as well the much Customers are a good mixture of ages and types. Cock- nificent two level cave-like night bar has become the host to in the remote past, though probably not urbanised: the older ones which belonged to Saint Augustine. On the tails are especially good: why not taste their exceptional, some of the best DJs around and to some incredible parties. Punic and Roman cisterns built to collect water and the first of the three floors of the museum there is a small but flashy-looking and sharp-tasting Costa Azzurra long drink Open all year long, seven days a week from early mornings Roman amphitheatre carved out of one of its slopes are precious collection of silver chalices, crosses and shrines, or the house special Caipielfo with vodka and strawber- till early mornings! On Thursday, you can stop by and enjoy just two examples. some of which date back as far as the 14th century. At the ries?! Also light snacks, cheese and ham or salads are a glass of wine or a cocktail, nibble on some finger food and It wasn’t until the 13th century, when the Pisans began moment, information in the museum is only in Italian and available, especially during lunch time.QB-3, scalette delight yourself with some live music in a candlelight atmo- creating their commercial outposts in Sardinia, that the so are the guided tours.QB-3, via del Fossario 5, tel. (+39) Santa Chiara 6, tel. (+39) 070 68 23 99, adamoelfo@ sphere. On Fridays and Saturdays the party starts late at night, strategic importance of Castello became apparent. They 070 65 24 98/(+39) 333 765 98 75. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - libero.it. Open 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. turning the venue into the centre of Cagliari’s underground decided to take control of the hill and soon blocked ac- 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00. Admission €4, conc. €2.50. PJAGBW nightlife, both literally and figuratively, for those who want to cess to it, fortifying the rock with heavy walls and three enjoy a good DJ set and good quality house music.QB-3, via large towers, two of which are still in pristine condition Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assump- Caffè Libarium Università 33, tel. (+39) 070 65 20 71. Open 07:00 - 01:00, and are among the main attactions Cagliari has to offer. tion (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) Caffè Libarium is composed of a bar area and two cosy Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. JEGB They also built the Cathedral. The church of St Mary became the city’s cathedral in the 13th internal rooms, each decorated in a style that maintains When the Aragonese and then the Spanish took over century. Few traces of the medieval structure remain: the stee- the old characteristics of the ancient building that hosts Pubs power in Sardinia (14th-18th century), they kept Cagliari ple, the two Romanesque side doors and the so-called Pisan it, while the outside terrace is another story all together. as their capital. They improved and enlarged the walls Chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart. As it is today, the ca- During the hot summer nights you get to enjoy a spec- Old Square Irish Pub of the castle, modernising the defensive system. Sardin- thedral has a latin-cross plan, with a transept and three naves. tacular panorama of the city, while sipping on your With walls dating back from the 1300s, Old Square is your typi- ians were effectively cut out from power and important During the 17th century, the building underwent its first major cocktail and chatting with your friends. With white sofas, cal Irish pub serving international and national first-class beers positions, and were only allowed to have humble jobs reconstruction work. The inside and the façade were changed, chairs and pillows laid on the old stairs of one of the main as well as good pub food, especially meat. Live entertainment during daytime. When the day drew to an end, a horn following the Baroque fashion of the time. It was not until the squares of Castello, this enchanting terrace will definitely at the weekends in a great atmosphere is part of Fridays’ and was the signal for the local population to leave the cas- 1930s that the façade was yet again restyled, according to a take your breath away. Famous for the Thursday nights Saturdays’ special. If you are looking for some down time, a tle or else be even thrown down from the walls. Neo-Romanesque pattern. The Sanctuary of the Martyrs happy-hour and abundant aperitifs, stop by for a drink good glass of wine and some quiet conversation, at the back The Savoy family took power at the beginning of the hosted in the crypt is home to 179 niches containing relics of but if you’re in no need for refreshments, do at least take of the pub you can find the cellar of the Templars, where you 18th century and also made many improvements, but Cagliari’s martyrs.QB-2, piazza Palazzo 4, tel. (+39) 070 66 38 a peek at the magnificent views from up top of the old can escape the frenetic grand entrance of the pub, where live the most radical changes occurred in the 19th century, 37, www.duomodicagliari.it. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun town below and whole harbour.QB-3, via Santa Croce music is played. With a vast menu to choose from to satisfy when Cagliari, and therefore Castello, stopped being a 08:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 20:30. Admission free. 33-35, tel. (+39) 346 522 02 12, [email protected], even the most demanding palates, this pub has something for military fortress. Instead of mighty defensive bastions, www.caffelibarium.com. Open 07:30 - 02:00. Closed everyone.QB-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 44, tel. (+39) 070 the new promenades and terraces (e.g. Saint Remy Ram- Elephant Tower (Torre dell’Elefante) Mon. PJAGB 65 80 99, [email protected], www.oldsquare.it. Open part and Buon Cammino) became the places where the This mighty tower was built by architect Giovanni Capula 11:30 - 02:30. PTJA6EGBW cagliaritani could mingle and socialise. in 1307 on the Castello hill, facing the sea. Along with the La Paillote Although the richer families have left, and the popula- St Pancras and Eagle towers, it was intended to guard one Just 5 minute’s car ride away from the centre of town this tion has decreased over the years, Castello is living a of the main entrances to Castello and to bolster the city exclusive bar-bathing establishment is situated in one gay cagliari new phase, buildings are being restored, there are new walls, which were being built in the same period. Elephant of Cagliari’s most stunning locations, Cala Fighera. The bars and restaurants; art galleries and shops are being Tower occupied the most south-western point of the cas- solarium is equipped with sun-beds and sun umbrellas Cagliari is an overall tolerant city, its population is opened and it is overall coming back to life, after gen- tle. Its dominant position is nowadays less apparent due and you can enjoy a club sandwich or a tasty snack for curious and welcomes changes. It can therefore be erations of romantic but decadent neglect. to a number of civilian and military buildings which sur- lunch while relaxing in comfort.QH-4, viale Calamosca, comfortably defined as gay tolerant. However, don’t round it, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Similarly to Calafighera, tel. (+39) 070 37 15 84, info@lapaillote. imagine a Mediterranean version of London or San Basilica of the Holy Cross (Basilica di the St Pancras Tower, it is made from local limestone and it, www.lapaillote.it. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Restaurant Francisco. It certainly isn’t. And although cagliaritani Santa Croce) The basilica of the Holy Cross was built its wooden floors divide it in four levels. During the Ara- closed Mon. 6GBX have grown accustomed to the presence of homosexu- in the 16th century along a section of the city walls which gonese domination, a wall on the northern side was built, als as a reality of everyday professional and social life, it was given the same name, Holy Cross Rampart (Bastione allowing the tower to be used for storage and as a prison. Mojito probably isn’t ready yet for the most open displays of di Santa Croce). Prior to its construction, on the same On the southern wall of the tower a small statue of an el- This lively bar has seating inside in a welcoming lounge affection or eccentricity. ground was the synagogue. After the expulsion of the ephant is still visible, hence the name of the site, as well as and a pretty terrace outside. However, on busy nights the Socially speaking, there is no proper gay area or gay Jews from all territories under the Spanish Crown in 1492, the original Pisan families’ coats of arms.QB-3, piazza San crowds mingle outside on the steps creating a vibrant club in Cagliari, as you might find in many other cities. the temple was demolished and replaced by the basilica. Giuseppe, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, camumarketing@ atmosphere. Early in the evening you can enjoy an relax- There are a number of gay-friendly bars, restaurants, Santa Croce was assigned to the Jesuits, until 1773, when gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission ing aperitif with finger food while later on try the house hotels and B&Bs, especially around piazza Yenne. the Society of Jesus was suppressed. The basilica was €3, conc. €2. U7 not allowed for safety reasons. speciality Mojito, of course!QB-3, scalette Santa Chiara The gay scene is never less alive and kicking. There is a very then assigned to the knightly Order of Saints Maurice and 25, tel. (+39) 070 68 44 39, [email protected]. active cultural organisation called ARC (Associazione Cul- Lazarus. On Sunday mornings it’s the weekly appointment Indoor Promenade (Passeggiata Coper- Open 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PJAGBX turale Gay Lesbica Bisessuale Transgender Cagliari, for traditional Catholics, who attend Latin mass.QB-2, ta) The Indoor Promenade is contemporary to the Saint www.associazionearc.eu), which is on the forefront of via Corte d’Appello 44, tel. (+39) 070 235 52 84, www. Remy Rampart and it is in fact built within its structure. italy.inyourpocket.com gay rights and anti-discrimination campaigns. santacrocecagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Featuring shiny marble floors, high ceilings, supported Admission free. by grand arches and pillars, it has been used as a loca-

18 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 19 What to see What to see tion for exhibitions since as early as the 1930s and it was Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) fensive walls were pulled down. It is the result of three forti- then heavily damaged by WWII air-raids. It was brought The Royal Palace has existed since the 14th century as the fied bastions which were then joined together. From piazza back to its original aspect, further refurbished in the 1980s residence of Aragonese, Spanish and then Savoy Viceroys. Costituzione, the first thing you see is a mighty double stair- and again recently. It is enshrined within the old city The present-day setting of the building is the result of case surmounted by a large arch. Once you reach the top, you fortified walls, parts of which are currently visible inside. major restoration works by Savoy military engineers in the are met by a vast terrace with benches and palm trees. The QB/C-3, piazza Costituzione, tel. (+39) 347 000 39 88, 18th century. Between 1779 and 1815, it became the of- view is breath-taking. You don’t have to walk up all the steps [email protected]. Closed for repairs. ficial residence of the Savoy court, during their exile from and the lazy visitor can take the lift (open 24/7, free of charge), Turin due to the French occupation of Piedmont. When which is about 100m further up along viale Regina Elena. Don’t Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Città) Cagliari ceased to be the official capital of the Kingdom, miss the romantic sunset, before you walk down to the Marina The Old Town Hall probably dates back to as early as the the Palace lost its institutional role and came under the quarter for dinner.QB/C-3, piazza Costituzione. Open 24/7. 14th century. It was destined to host the assemblies of the Provincial authority, which it still is. The Palace can be vis- Admission free. city representatives and then the Town Hall, before the new ited and although there aren’t any guided tours as such, one was built. Its present-day aspect is an example of 18th with the aid of audio-visual equipment (for the moment St Pancras Tower (Torre di San Pancrazio) century Piedmontese-Baroque. Above the entrance door, only in Italian), it is possible to wonder through the 18th The St Pancras Tower was built in 1305 on the highest peak of an inscription in memory of the visit by Emperor Charles V century halls, adorned with fine painting and frescoes. what is now known as Castello. The construction was com- and above that, Cagliari’s coat of arms. It then became the QB-2, piazza Palazzo 1, tel. (+39) 070 409 20 00. Open missioned to Sardinian architect Giovanni Capula and it was city’s conservatoire and it’s now a cultural space used by 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:30. Admission free. U intended to play a pivotal role in the city’s new defensive sys- the city council to host exhibitions.QB-3, piazza Palazzo 6, tem, protecting the northern entrance of Castello. The tower tel. (+39) 070 677 64 82. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione Saint Remy) is made of white limestone and is open on the side facing Admission €4, conc. €2.50. Joint saver ticket for the Old Probably the most noticeable monument in Cagliari. It was piazza Indipendenza. During the Aragonese and then Span- Town Hall, the City Gallery of Modern Art and the Mu- built in white limestone at the end of the 19th century, after ish domination, the fourth wall of the tower was completed, seum of Siamese Art €8, conc. €4. U Cagliari ceased to be a military fortress and gradually its de- allowing it to be used as a fortified warehouse and lodgings for civil servants. Until the end of the 19th century, the tower was used as a jail. At the beginning of the 20th century, the GREEN CAGLIARI tower underwent major restoration work and was brought back to its original 3-wall shape.QB-2, piazza Indipenden- There will be many of you who will need a break from children’s play area is a little smaller than the others, and za, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, [email protected]. the heat and the panting up and down Cagliari’s steep its one toilet is a little hard to find, but this really is the Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3, conc. €2. hills. There are some beautiful, breezy parks with lots of place to come if you want the best views in all Cagliari as U7 not allowed for safety reasons. trees and shade, vital in the summer months! Make the from the top of the hill you can see for miles in all direc- Cagliari. The ground floor of the Old College also hosts the most of them! tions. In the grounds there is both a bar and a restaurant The Ghetto (Centro Comunale d’Arte e Luigi Piloni Collection (Collezione Sarda Luigi Piloni, and there is even a lift for those who don’t fancy the, ad- Cultura Il Ghetto) This culture and arts centre book visit in advance), consisting of seven rooms where an- mittedly steep, climb to the top. takes its name from the area in which it’s located: the cient maps and prints, Sardinian costumes and artefacts, as old Jewish quarter within the walls of Castello. The area well as local religious art and jewellery, are on display.QB-3, Monte Claro Park (Parco Monte Claro, A/B-1, via only actually acquired the nickname ‘the Ghetto’ in the via Università 40, tel. (+39) 070 675 24 28/(+39) 070 675 Cadello, open 07:00 - 21:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 24:00) is last century, when the castle’s fortifications ceased their 24 24, www.unica.it. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - often chosen by joggers and undergraduates, thanks to military function and, in their dereliction, came to serve 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. U its gentle slopes and proximity to university and sport as makeshift living space for some of the city’s poorest facilities. Its pond, although smaller than that at Urpinu citizens. Much of the area was restored in the 1990s and hill, is the habitat of some very amiable ducks and there the arts centre was opened in 2000. It hosts various exhi- Citadel of Museums is a café very close to the waters’ edge. There are clearly bitions throughout the year, so there is always something sign-posted toilets, as well as several very useful drinking new and interesting to see.QB-2, via Santa Croce 18, tel. (Cittadella dei Musei) water fountains dotted around the park. (+39) 070 640 21 15, www.camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - The Citadel of Museums is situated just north of Castello, The Garden below the Walls © comunecagliarinews.it 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Spe- and since the major works carried out by military archi- On the western side of Urpinu Hill (Monte Urpinu, G-2, The Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici, B-1/2, viale Regina cial exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U tects Rocco Cappellino and the Palearo brothers in the via Pietro Leo, open 07:00 - 21:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 23:00) Elena, open 07:00 - 20:00, Jul - Aug 06:00 - 23:00) are a 16th century, it is included within perimeter of the fortifi- there’s a pleasant pond with ducks and geese, while green oasis just under the towering walls of Buoncam- University and Old College (Palazzo cation system of the city, subsequently extended and im- peacocks walk freely all over the gardens. They’re fairly mino and between the ancient districts of Castello and dell’Università ed ex Seminario) The Univer- proved by the Savoys during the 18th century. It was prin- shy animals, so you might need to be on the look-out Villanova, ideal for joggers, children or just a relaxing stroll. sity of Cagliari was officially founded at the beginning of the cipally used as an arsenal and foundry, as well as a jail and if you hope to see some. If you get all the way up to the 17th century, but it had to wait until 1770 to have its own subsequently barracks. Heavily damaged in WWII, it was top, you’ll be gratified by a splendid view of the gulf of The Garden below the Walls (Giardino sotto le mura, monumental building. Together with the annexed seminar, later abandoned and only in the 1960s it was destined to Cagliari and of the city. It has easily the best children’s B-2, viale Regina Elena, open 07:00- 24:00) opened in it was built on a part of the old walls, just yards away from host a number of museums and areas for temporary ex- play area in the city, along with plenty of shady benches March 2014 and is a pleasant green area in the heart the Elephant Tower and present-day Saint Remy Rampart. hibitions. Visitors can enjoy a cafe with a pleasant terrace surrounding it for tired parents to relax on. of the city. Perfect for a refreshing break from shopping The two buildings are adjacent, structured on three levels and a somewhat limited selection of snacks. The area also or sightseeing, this charming garden runs along the an- and each has its own entrance: one leads to the administra- has amazing views of the gulf of Cagliari. At the top of St Michael Hill (Colle San Michele, F-1, cient city walls below the towering Saint Remy Rampart. tive offices of the rectorate and the other to the University via Cinquini, open 07:00 - 20:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 21:30) The garden is enriched with seven sculptures by the local Library. Both have inner courtyards and it’s usually possible Museum of Siamese Art (Museo d’Arte Sia- is the homonymous castle, which hosts exhibitions. Its artist Pinuccio Sciola and is wheelchair friendly. to reach the back and have a small walk on part of the old mese Stefano Cardu) The exhibits on display are city walls, with inspiring views of the harbour and the gulf of part of Stefano Cardu’s collection of Siamese and Oriental

20 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 21 What to see What to see

art, which he gathered during the long period he spent Mon. Admission: €3, conc. €1.50. U18 and over 65 free. in present-day Thailand. When he returned to Cagliari, he Joint saver ticket for the National Gallery and the Na- is intertwined with that of the knightly Order of the Holy the visitors deep down into the roots of the city. For those donated the collection to the city. It includes precious pot- tional Archaeological Museum €5, conc. €2.50. U Sepulchre, which established their headquarters here. The of you who don’t speak Italian, captions are available in tery; various objects made of ivory, among which some Order was active in Cagliari as early as the 16th century English, Spanish and French. Upstairs is the Treasure Mu- Japanese miniature statues representing social stereo- Wax Anatomical Models Museum (Museo and its main mission was to provide burial to the poor. seum, with an interesting collection of church paraments, types and dragons; silver jewellery; weapons, such as dag- delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini) It The main entrance to the church is on its right-hand side, chalices and statues.QB-3, vico del Collegio 2, tel. (+39) gers, swords and spears; paintings and furniture. Currently was 1801 when Francesco Boi, professor of human anatomy which gives onto the square. The church has a single nave 070 66 37 24. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed on display is also a private collection of Burmese art, es- at the University of Cagliari, was granted the permission to with side chapels. The altar in Our Lady of Mercy Chapel is Mon. Admission €5, U12 €2.50. U pecially wood statues.QB-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) take a sabbatical period in mainland Italy in order to learn actually one of the finest examples of the Baroque style 070 65 18 88. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis- about the latest discoveries in surgery. Based on Boi’s dis- in Cagliari. Thanks to restoration works in the 1980s, the Via Roma and Town Hall (Palazzo Comu- sion €2, conc. €1. Joint saver ticket for the Museum of sections, artist Clemente Susini created his wax models, sepulchral crypt is also open to visitors.QB-3, piazza San nale) Cagliari’s main street runs along the sea-front, op- Siamese Art, the Old Town Hall and the City Gallery of which are still today a very realistic representation of parts Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. Open 09:00 - 13:00, posite the harbour. After the demolition of the old walls Modern Art €8, conc. €4. U of the human body. The collection got to Cagliari after it was 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. which protected the Marina quarter from raids by enemy bought by King Carlo Felice, who wanted to have it on dis- fleets, via Roma gradually became an elegant promenade National Archaeological Museum play in his palace as a marvel of those times.QB/C-1, piazza St Augustine’s Church (Chiesa di Sant’ with cafés, shops and a high-end department store, under (Museo Archeologico Nazionale) The mu- Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 675 76 24. Open 09:00 - 13:00, Agostino) The building of this church began in 1577 and the arcades. At one end, the street features the contempo- seum is housed within the old walls of the Royal Arsenal 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €1.50, conc. €0.50. the project is by Giorgio Palearo, famous at the time for be- rary building of the Regional Parliament, while at the other (Regio Arsenale). The exhibits on display give a fascinat- ing, along with his brother Jacopo, one of the most influential end, opposite the train and bus stations, is the Town Hall. ing outlook on Sardinia’s ancient history. It displays ar- military architects in Europe. At the time the two were indeed The building was inaugurated in 1907 and severely dam- chaeological finds dating as far back as the Pre-Nuragic Marina in Cagliari, working at the new fortifications of the city and aged during the WWII. It is inspired by Catalan-Gothic and era (6000BC) and the Nuragic period, with a large num- Marina was already urbanised more than two thousand they were asked by Philip II of Spain himself to build a church Art Nouveau styles. It follows the patterns of the arcades ber of small bronze statues representing, amongst oth- years ago and its life has always been centred around dedicated to Saint Augustine. This was to partly compensate along via Roma and the limestone façade has seven arches ers, warriors, divinities, animals, men and women. Also the harbour. the demolition of the old Augustine convent, which had been and two central 38m high octagonal turrets. On the front the later phases of the Phoenician and Punic coloniza- It was abandoned for centuries during the Middle necessary to allow the construction of the new city walls. It is gate, a bronze eagle holds the coat of arms of Cagliari. A tion in Sardinia, between 8th and 3rd centuries BC are Ages, but in the the 13th century the Pisans set up their one the very few Renaissance style buildings in Sardinia and walk along via Roma is a must if you want to get a general well represented.QB/C-1, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) commercial activities in the area then called Lapola, has a Greek-cross plan, barrel vaults and a semi-spherical cu- idea of what Cagliari can be as a whole. It’s not unusual to 070 65 59 11, www.archeocaor.beniculturali.it. Open between the waterfront and Castello, they built walls pola. Entry to the church is both through the front portal as see old men in suits discussing the latest political scandal, 09:00 - 19:15. Closed Mon. Admission: €3, conc. €1.50. around it and the quarter has flourished ever since. well as from the sacristy, along largo Carlo Felice.QB-3, via teenagers strolling along and holding hands, sailors and U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the National When the defensive walls which surrounded the Ma- Baylle, tel. (+39) 070 66 42 36. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - dock workers sitting next to regional government func- Archaeological Museum and the National Gallery €5, rina were pulled down in the 19th century, the quarter 20:00. Admission free. U tionaries, or even the mayor walking by on his way to his conc. €2.50. U opened up to the rest of the city and the wide streets office.QA/B-3/4/C-4. that mark its borders are still important features: via St Eulalia’s Church, Archaeologi- National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazio- Roma, that runs along the port, with its arcades, cafes cal Site and Treasure Museum (Chiesa Stampace nale) A contemporary building hosts the National Gal- and shops; viale Regina Margherita, and its exclusive di Sant’Eulalia, area archeologica e lery. In its three floors, parts of the old Spanish and Savoy restaurants, leading up to Saint Remy Rampart; largo Museo del Tesoro) The parish church of St Eulalia The name Stampace probably originates from the old city walls have been integrated with the rooms where the Carlo Felice, with its banks and shops, is still one of the was built by the Aragonese towards the end of the 14th greeting stai in pace (stay in peace). Stampace is, among pictures are on display. Most of the works of the museum city’s main arteries. century and named after the of Barcelona. the four historical quarters of Cagliari, probably the one were gathered during the 19th century, when the new- However, to get the feel of the Marina, you must venture The building was severely damaged during WWII bomb- which still bears the most testimonies of the ancient born Italian kingdom claimed ownership over Church into the narrow streets, just behind via Roma, and hear ings. Restoration works have brought back the inside to its civilizations which lived in the area since the Punic and property. Another important part of the collection is the voices of its multi-ethnic population talking from Aragonese-Gothic style. During the consolidation of the then Roman colonisations. made of the pictures which used to be held at the no lon- window to window, the delicious smells coming from the foundations of the building, archaeologists unveiled the After the Pisan conquest, in the 13th century, Stampace ger existing St Francis’s church, many dating as far back as kitchens of its many restaurants and just walk around. remains of water cisterns dating back to the pre-Roman was a village mainly lived by artisans, wrapped inside the 14th century. Also on display, works by Sardinian artist period, paved roads, a house and what was possibly a its no-longer existing walls, of which the only remnant Pietro Cavaro, active between 1508 and 1538.QB-2, piaz- Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Chiesa di temple. The visit to the underground site gives an idea of is the Buttress Gate (Porta dello Sperone), at the top of za Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 66 24 96, www.pinacoteca. San Sepolcro) Although it is not possible to provide how the various civilizations used the site for over 2,000 via Azuni. Although Stampace suffered badly during the cagliari.beniculturali.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed an exact date for its founding, the history of the church years, with the knowledgeable museum guides bringing WWII bombings and has now become largely multi-

22 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 23 What to see What to see ethnic, it still preserves its traditional character. A street Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro ro- festival called Cuccurus Cottus (the old nickname for mano) Probably the most important building of the the inhabitants of Stampace, which in Sardinian means Roman period still visible in Sardinia. It’s almost entirely ‘hot heads’) is held every August, when the quarter is carved in the sloping rock, using the natural valley that brought back to life by the thousands of people that goes down from Buon Cammino. It was built between gather. the 1st and 2nd century AD and it could originally seat Nightlife in Stampace is definitely Cagliari’s liveliest, with its up to 10,000 spectators. The terraces were divided into dozens of bars and restaurants, both north and south of the three different orders, depending on the social level main street, corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Don’t miss it! spectators belonged to. The shows included fights be- tween gladiators, or against wild beasts, which used to Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico) be kept in cages, at the sides of the arena, and still vis- If you’re in need of some shade after having walked ible today. The walk along Buon Cammino to get there about Cagliari’s city centre on a warm sunny morn- is magnificent, rewarded as it is by beautiful views and ing, or indeed if you’re a lover of plants, in particular a downhill walk back down to piazza Yenne.QB-1, via special Mediterranean varieties, tropical or succulent Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 19, tel. (+39) 338 277 47 90/ species, then it’s worth checking out the University of (+39) 070 65 29 56, [email protected], www. Villanova The museum displays its works on two floors and holds, Cagliari’s Botanical Garden, inaugurated in 1866. It’s anfiteatroromano.it. Closed for repairs. Villanova (in Sardinian Bidda Noa, which means ‘New as a permanent exhibition, the Ingrao Collection, with about 5 hectares big and features some 600 trees and Town’) is probably the most recent of the four historical 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Ital- 1,000 succulent plants. Located at the bottom of the Ro- St Anne’s Church (Chiesa di Sant’Anna) quarters in Cagliari, although 13th century documents ian artists such as Umberto Boccioni, to whom an entire man Amphitheatre (although there is no thoroughfare The foundation stone of the parish church of St Anne, prove its existence. Traditionally, its main activity was room is dedicated, Giorgio Morandi and Mino Maccari, between these two places), the gardens also proudly based on architect Giuseppe Viana’s initial project, was agriculture. For some centuries, it had walls built around among many others. On the ground floor is the Sardin- include ancient Phoenician and Roman cisterns, now laid in 1785, but the building wasn’t inaugurated un- it, which used to follow what is now one of Cagliari’s ian Collection (Collezione Sarda), displaying a selection fertile breeding zones for water lilies and papyrus.QA-2, til 1818 and then finished in the 1930s. It was severely main shopping streets, via Garibaldi, and they are no of works by Sardinian artists. The museum has a well- via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 11, tel. (+39) 070 675 35 22, damaged during WWII and didn’t re-open until 1951. The longer visible. The old part of the quarter gives the visi- stocked shop, with a fairly large selection of books and [email protected], www.ccb-sardegna.it/virtual/ structure of the church is a typical example of Baroque tor the impression of being in a small village. It mainly souvenirs. Guided tours in English or French to be booked virtualorto.html. Open 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. architecture, although the style’s characteristic decora- lives along via San Giovanni, the churches of St James in advance.QB-2, viale San Vincenzo 2, tel. (+39) 070 Admission €4. Guided tour €6. U6 and over 65 free. tions weren’t restored after the latest reparation works. and St Dominic, and the many narrow streets and al- 677 75 98, [email protected], www. Its twin steeples are a benchmark in Stampace’s skyline leyways. galleriacomunalecagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) and the church is an important religious and social point Until only a decade ago, it was not unusual to see its Tue. Admission €6, conc. €2.60. Joint saver ticket for the This archaeological site was named after the famous poet of reference for Cagliari’s old town.QB-2, via Azuni, tel. inhabitants grilling fresh fish outdoors, especially on City Gallery of Modern Art, the Museum of Siamese Art and bard, Tigellius, a contemporary of emperor Augustus, (+39) 070 66 39 63. Open 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free. Sunday mornings. and the Old Town Hall €8, conc. €4. U well known for his wealthy and extravagant life style, who Even though in the recent years, Villanova has lost some allegedly resided here in a luxurious villa. In fact, a more St Michael’s Church (Chiesa di San Mi- of its more socially folkloristic aspects, the quarter has Exmà accurate study of the area has revealed a series of different chele) The church was consecrated in 1738, although improved a lot and is living a new birth. The old build- Exmà is a multi-functional space which regularly hosts houses in what probably used to be a residential area in it’s construction had begun much earlier, and had been ings are being restored and via Sulis, the part of Vil- temporary exhibitions, screening of movies, theatre and ancient Karalis, existing as early as the 1st century BC. A possible thanks to a large donation by politician and law- lanova closer to Saint Remy Rampart, has now become live music shows. It is located inside the closed walls of visit to the site can give visitors the idea of what a Roman yer Francesco Angelo Dessì, who died in 1674. He had a high-end shopping street, while carpenters and small the old city slaughterhouse, which was renovated in 1993. house used to be like, especially with the aid of visual re- been very close to the Society of Jesus, which used to shops are gradually opening up their activities, making Right beside a very busy road, Exmà is a quiet oasis of constructions available at reception. Visibile today are the have a novitiate building on the site of the present-day a walk through Villanova a worthwhile experience. peace, with a hamlet-like feeling to it. It is definitely worth impluvia, i.e. the area of the house where rainwater was church, which still belongs to the Jesuits. The building paying a visit after seeing the Basilica of St Saturnin, which harvested, the small bedrooms, as well as fragments of is indeed the typical Jesuit church as regards architec- Basilica of St Saturnin (Basilica di San is only a few minutes walk away.QC-3, via San Lucifero frescoes and mosaic floors.QA-3, via Tigellio, tel. (+39) ture and is probably the finest example of Baroque art Saturnino) The basilica is probably the most ancient 71, tel. (+39) 070 66 63 99, [email protected], www. 329 874 89 77. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis- in Cagliari. It is ideally placed for a quick visit, just few example of Romanesque architecture in Cagliari. A 6th camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed sion €3, conc. €2. U minutes’ walk away from piazza Yenne. Guided tours also century document mentions the site for the first time. It Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge in English.QB-3, via Ospedale 12, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 had probably already been built in the place where young an admission fee. U Piazza Yenne 26. Open 8:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 08.30 - 12:00, Saturnin had been martyred in 304AD. The church and It’s the main meeting point for locals, especially during 19:00 - 21:00. Admission free. the adjacent monastery were gradually abandoned dur- St James’s Church (Chiesa di San Giacomo) the hot summer nights. People gather here to have a chat ing the Middle Ages, then restored during the Spanish This is one of the oldest parish churches in Cagliari and before moving up to Castello or to some club out of town; St Restituta’s Crypt (Cripta di Santa Res- domination, before part of its limestone bricks were used documents date it back as early as the 14th century. It was to sit in the terraces of the many cafes and bars, sipping tituta) This hypogeal space was believed to have for restoration works in the Cathedral. The surrounding built in the typical Catalan-Gothic style of the time. It un- cocktails or Sardinian beer; or simply, to have a walk while been the site of Saint Restituta’s martyrdom. The crypt necropolis has given light to many Roman and Byzantine derwent restoration works in the 18th and then the 19th slurping a large homemade ice-cream. Piazza Yenne is also was long forgotten and, during the 17th century excava- burials. Only the central part of what used to be the Greek century, which added the Neo-Classical façade, based on an important cross-roads, ideally placed between Marina tions, the ancient relics were found, leading to a partial cross plan is visible.QD-3, piazza San Cosimo, tel. (+39) a project by architect Gaetano Cima. The main structure and Stampace, just below the Elephant Tower, at the edge restoration of the site and its embellishment with altars 070 65 98 69. Closed until further notice. has preserved many Gothic elements, e.g. the steeple, of Castello. Piazza Yenne is where the state road 131 from and statues. During the WWII bombings, the relics were the apse behind the main altar and four side chapels. It’s Cagliari to Sassari used to start from, and the statue at the transferred to neighbouring St Anne’s Church, while the City Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Co- worth to walk in to have a look, while walking around center of the roundabout represents King Carlo Felice, crypt was used as an air-raid shelter.QB-3, via Sant’Efisio munale d’Arte Moderna) In the beautiful setting the busy shopping streets of Villanova.QC-3, piazza San who uses his left arm to point the way. Among Sardinians, 14, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, camumarketing@gmail. of the Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici), the City Gallery Giacomo 3, tel. (+39) 070 66 28 71. Open 08:00 - 11:00. the road 131 is still nowadays called la Carlo Felice!QB-3. com. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. of Modern Art is hosted in a fine Neo-Classical building. Admission free.

24 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 25 What to see Getting Around www.parcomolentargius.it. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admis- Airlines and have an ID card or passport. So far there are four loca- Other sights sion free. Bicycle rental first hour €3, 2 hours €5, each tions from where the bicycle can be picked up or dropped additional hour €1, U11 first hour €2, 2 hours €3, each Air Berlin Düsseldorf, Munich, Zurich.Qtel. 199 40 07 37, Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria (Basilica off cicloposteggio( ), in via Sonnino, piazza della Repubblica, additional hour €0.50. Guided tours by boat €10, U11 www.airberlin.com. di Nostra Signora di Bonaria) The basilica, the piazza Giovanni XXIII and at Marina Piccola.QB-3/4, Town sanctuary and the convent are built on the hill south-east of €5, U3 free (book in advance). TU Air One Venice.Qtel. (+39) 091 255 10 47, www.flyairone. Hall (Palazzo Comunale), piazza De Gasperi 2, 6th floor, the city centre and about a 15/20 minute walk from via Roma. tel. (+39) 070 677 83 81/800 45 63 00, www.bicincitta. St Michael Castle (Castello di San Michele) com. The initial church, which maintains its original Gothic architec- com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - The castle is in the north-western outskirts of the city and the ture, was built after 1323, on the site where the Aragonese de- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Card €30, including €25 annual hill where it was built is now a pleasant park for walks and re- Alitalia Milan-Linate, -Fiumicino.Qtel. 89 20 10, cided to set up their camp and lay siege to the city. It was then fee plus €5 spending charge. donated to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, who then built a laxing views of Cagliari’s skyline, even though it’s surrounded www.alitalia.com. convent. In 1370, during a terrible storm in the gulf of Cagliari, by blocks of flats. It dates back to the 14th century and it was a ship wrecked and part of its load, a large case containing a needed by the Aragonese conquerors to consolidate their Austrian Airlines Vienna.Qtel. (+39) 02 30 30 11 60, Bus & Tourist Train very fine statue of Our Lady, was found on the shore in front of power and to prevent attempts of invasion from the north. De- www.austrian.com. tours the church. Both the statue and the case are on public display. spite the many transformations made to it over the centuries, The building of the adjacent basilica started in the 18th cen- the castle has preserved its three mighty towers and a deep Brussels Airlines Brussels.Qtel. 899 800 903/(+32) 2 City Tour Cagliari tury and it was then resumed, but not finished until 1926. The moat around it. St Michael Castle is used as a venue for tem- 723 23 62, www.brusselsairlines.com. The open top bus tour takes approximately one hour and complex is surrounded by a small but pleasant park, with nice porary exhibitions and other events.QF-1, via Sirai, tel. (+39) will take you around to see the the most remarkable sights views over the port.QD-3, piazza Bonaria, tel. (+39) 070 30 070 50 06 56, [email protected], www. EasyJet Basel, Berlin-Schönefeld, Geneva, London-Stanst- there are to visit in Cagliari. You’ll get the chance to see the 17 47, www.bonaria.eu. Open 08:00 - 11:30, 16:00 - 19:00. camuweb.it. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. ed, Milan-Malpensa, Paris-Orly.Qtel. 899 23 45 89, www. old city walls and towers driving around Castello, rather Admission free. Admission €5, conc. €4. U easyjet.com. than through it. You’ll see the Roman Amphitheatre and the beautiful views of the Gulf of the Angels. The tour even Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) Etihad Regional Geneva, Lugano.Qtel. (+41) 91 208 takes you as far as Poetto Beach and if you’re lucky you’ll The Cave of the Viper is a burial monument which was POETTO BEACH 70 80/(+39) 06 89 97 04 22, www.etihadregional.com. see the wonderful colours of flamingoes in the salt lakes erected between the 1st and 2nd century AD. Lucius Cas- of the Molentargius Saline Park.QB-3, piazza Yenne, tel. sius Philippus, a Roman who had been exiled to Sardinia, It is the longest beach in Sardinia and the main coast- Germanwings Cologne, Düsseldorf, Stuttgart.Qtel. 199 800 42 28 50, www.citytourcagliari.com. Dept. 09:30 - dedicated it to his wife Atilia Pomptilla, who was buried al resort for the cagliaritani. It stretches for around 25 70 13, www.germanwings.com. 19:30. €10, 5-12 €5, U5 free. there. The legend tells us that during a bad illness that Lu- 8km. During the summer months it’s at its best and cius had been suffering from, his wife prayed so much that caters for many needs. It’s not short of restaurants, Lufthansa Munich.Qtel. (+39) 02 30 30 10 00, www. Trenino Cagliaritano she ended up dying in his place. Though fairly small, the pizzerias, cafés and bars. On the beach itself, the lufthansa.com. ‘Welcome on board’ is the logo for the tourist train. The monument is important for the engraved poems in Latin crowds are incredibly variable and many people love journey lasts about 45 minutes and it goes under the old and Ancient Greek at the sides of the grotto.QF-1, viale to go to a certain part of it but absolutely not one Meridiana Bologna, Catania, Chișinău, Düsseldorf, Kyiv, mediaeval towers, then taking you through the narrow, Sant’Avendrace 87, tel. (+39) 070 455 65 65. Open 09:00 kilometre further back or further on. London-Gatwick, Milan-Malpensa, Moscow-Domodedovo, cobbled streets of Castello, giving visitors the opportunity - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. U There are however some features which remain Munich, Naples, Trieste, Turin, Verona.Qtel. 89 29 28, www. to see some beautiful views of the city and the Molentargius the same all along Poetto Beach. The sea of course, meridiana.it. Saline Park.QB-3, piazza del Carmine, tel. (+39) 070 65 55 Lazaret (Lazzaretto) which can be blissfully crystal-clear when the much 49, www.trenino.it. Dept. 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Oct This building used to be the lazaret of the city and it dates awaited north-westerly mistral wind is blowing. Ac- Minoan Air Salerno, Split.Qtel. (+30) 28 10 33 31 83/(+30) 11:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Nov - Dec no service. back to the 16th century. It was built in what was then a cess to the beach is free of cost, although scattered 28 10 33 31 82, [email protected], www.minoanair. completely isolated area, far from the city and was intended along its whole length there are footbridges across com. Buses to keep people and goods coming from the sea, which the sand leading to designated areas where you can needed to be quarantined. This was a common practice hire pedal boats, beach-beds, deck-chairs and sun- Ryanair Bari, Baden-Baden, Beauvais, Bergamo, Charleroi, Public transportation network CTM provides a somewhat of the time and the idea was to prevent the spreading of umbrellas, have showers and so on. Cuneo, Frankfurt-Hahn, Genoa, Girona, Kaunas, Krakow, Lon- efficient and fast service around the city and the suburbs. epidemics carried by ships and sailors. The structure is cur- Another element of pride and pleasure, as well as an don-Gatwick, Madrid, Marseille, Milan-Malpensa, Parma, Pe- Buses run roughly from 04:00 to 00:50. Tickets can be rently used for concerts, theatre performances, temporary absolute must for locals, are the beach kiosks (chi- rugia, Pescara, Pisa, Rome-Ciampino, Trapani, Treviso, Trieste, bought from CTM Points, newspaper stands and tobacco- exhibitions and festivals of different kinds.QG-4, via dei oschi), which are located along the seafront. Every Valencia, Weeze.Qtel. 89 55 00 00 20, www.ryanair.com. nists, marked with a big black and white T outside the shop. Navigatori, tel. (+39) 070 383 80 85, lazzaretto2000@ café-kiosk is different, but without exceptions they A 90-minute ticket is €1.20 when purchased in advance tiscali.it, www.lazzarettodicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, all serve coffees, soft drinks, beers, sandwiches and SAS Scandinavian Airlines Copenhagen, Stock- or €1.70 on the bus. Have exact change ready when you 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, conc. €3. U pastries; in the summer months, they are all open holm.Qtel. 199 259 104, www.flysas.com. buy the ticket on the bus. Other options include a 1-day seven days a week till late at night. ticket (€3), a weekly ticket (€12) and a monthly ticket (€30, Molentargius Saline Park (Parco Natura- Poetto is also very popular with sport lovers, for Volotea Ancona, Venice.Qtel. 199 208 717, www. over 65 €14), all valid on Metrocagliari too. Tickets must be le Regionale Molentargius Saline)Molen- running and cycling, kite- and wind-surfing, sailing, volotea.com. clipped once on board. targius Saline Park includes the ancient salt mines (saline), swimming and so on, which effectively makes the whose use is certified by documents dating back to the entire beach area a huge open-air gym. Vueling Barcelona, Florence.Qtel. 899 39 98 88, www. CTM Point viale TriesteQF-2, viale Trieste 151, Roman period, and the Molentargius pond itself, with its There’s an increased bus service during the summer vueling.com. tel. 800 07 88 70/(+39) 070 209 12 10, www.ctmcagliari. protected wildlife. Home to flamingoes and other species months, which takes thousands of people back and it. Open 08:15 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 08:15 - of residential and migratory birds, the park is ideally placed forth to the beach (take any bus line bearing a “P”). At Bicycle rental 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From 25 Aug open 08:05 - 18:00, between Urpinu Hill and Poetto Beach, giving visitors the night however, you’re better off if you have a car, take Sat 08:05 - 12:00. Closed Sun. possibility to trek, run or cycle. There are also spots for bird a taxi or else be prepared for a one-hour walk back to Bicincittà watching.QG-3, Edificio Sali Scelti, via La Palma, tel. the city centre.QH-2/3. A card is needed to rent a bicycle and can be purchased at CTM Point piazza MatteottiQB-4, piazza Mat- (+39) 070 37 91 92 01, [email protected], the Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale). You must be 18 or older teotti. Open 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. 26 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 27 Getting Around Getting Around Tour Baire Europcar (airport)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. piazza Yenne, tel. (+39) 328 276 11 64/(+39) 347 367 45 Buses to a number of destinations south-west of Cagliari. (+39) 070 24 01 26, fax (+39) 070 212 96 71, www.europcar. 98, [email protected], www.cagliaritour.com. 15 Tickets are sold on board buses. Tour Baire also offers it. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Jun - 15 Oct open 09:30 - 13:00. 16 Oct - 14 Jun book in coach, minibus and chauffeur driven cars hire, and pro- advance. Prices on request. T vides transfer pick ups at Cagliari-Elmas Airport.Qvia Ca- Europcar (city)QF-1, viale Monastir km 3.550, gliari 88, Capoterra, tel. (+39) 070 72 02 18, fax (+39) 070 tel. (+39) 070 208 41 15, fax (+39) 070 208 19 57, www. Sardinia Tourist Guide 72 07 67, [email protected], www.tourbaire.it. Open europcar.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 Sardinia Tourist Guide provides professional tourist, nature 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. - 13:00. Closed Sun. and walking guides to accompany visitors on fascinating excursions all over the island in a 9-seater van. They put Hertz (airport)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) their vast experience and a genuine love of their land at Car parking 070 24 00 37, fax (+39) 070 24 08 55, www.hertz.it. Open your disposal and guide you on archaeological and cultural By far the easiest and most pleasant way to visit the city 08:00 - 23:00. journeys to discover the essence of Sardinia, its history and centre is on foot. If you do decide to use your car, white traditions. For the more active there are also numerous trek- lines (very few of them left) indicate free parking. If the lines Hertz (city)QB-4, piazza Matteotti 8, tel. (+39) 070 king tours to enjoy which take you off the beaten track to are blue look for a parking meter (parchimetro) and pay the 65 10 78, fax (+39) 070 66 34 57, www.hertz.it. Open explore the hidden treasures of the island.Qvia Palmas 117, price. Tickets should be displayed on your car windscreen. 08:30 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Selargius, tel. (+39) 349 455 83 67, fax (+39) 178 604 15 20, The cost depends on the parking zone you are in. Expect to [email protected], www.sardiniatouristguide. pay €1/hr in the city centre. Be sure to have plenty of coins Maggiore (airport)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. it. Book in advance. Prices on request. TA to hand as parking meters neither give change nor accept (+39) 070 24 08 18, fax (+39) 070 212 89 76, cagliari.cg1@ credit cards. Parking is free from 13:00 to 16:00, from 20:00 maggiorerent.it, www.maggiore.it. Open 07:30 - 22:00. to 09:00, on Sundays and public holidays. Internet & Wi-Fi Many of the parking areas in the city centre are, unfortu- Maggiore (city)QF-1, viale Monastir 116, tel. (+39) In the era of laptops, smartphones and tablets, what you nately, presided over by unofficial ‘attendants’ wishing to 070 27 36 92, fax (+39) 070 208 05 36, cagliari.cg2@ really need are hotspots. There is free outdoor Wi-Fi in via receive a tip. Whilst these people can seem intimidating, maggiorerent.it, www.maggiore.it. Open 08:30 - 13:00, Roma, in largo Carlo Felice and at Marina Piccola. Start your they do not pose a real threat and the best you can do is 16:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. device, connect and follow the instructions. Many bars and ignore them. cafés have free Wi-Fi as well. Disabled parking spaces are available at Metropark Cagli- Sardinya Also offer scooter and motorbike rental.QCa- ari and Regina Elena Parking Garage. gliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 04 44, sardinya. [email protected], www.autonoleggiosardinya.it. Metro Metropark Cagliari Open 08:00 - 22:00. Metrocagliari Located adjacent to the bus and railway stations, only a At the moment Metrocagliari only operates one surface line, five minute walk from piazza Yenne, the Metropark has SixtQCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel./fax (+39) 070 21 20 from piazza della Repubblica to neighbouring Monserrato, 652 spaces including 13 bays for disabled drivers.QB-4, 45, www.sixt.it. Open 08:45 - 21:45, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, part of outer Cagliari. Trains run from 06:00 to 22:40. Tick- piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 65 00 06, www.metropark.it. 16:30 - 20:30. ets must be stamped once inside the train.QC/D-2, piazza Open 24/7. Hourly rate €1, daily rate €10, monthly rate della Repubblica, MRepubblica, tel. (+39) 070 47 41 211, €80. AU [email protected], www.arst.sardegna. Chauffeur Drive services it/orari_e_autolinee/servizi_metroca.html. Ticket office Regina Elena Parking Garage Stefano Scalas open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. 90-minute ticket Situated a few minutes walk from the Saint Remy Rampart, Taxi services, airport transfers, tours of Cagliari and Sardinia, €1.20, carnet of 12 90-minute tickets €12. U the Regina Elena Parking Garage boasts 628 spaces and Stefano Scalas is your personal driver and provides a 24 hours has a lift that can take you straight up the hill to Castello. service so you can sit back and enjoy your journey in comfort. QB-2, viale Regina Elena, tel. (+39) 070 684 89 60/(+39) Ideal for small groups and wheelchair friendly, choose from Taxi 348 211 03 88, [email protected], www.apcoa.it. the numerous excursions Stefano proposes or personalize Cagliari’s taxis are safe and generally reliable. Cheating is Open 24/7. Hourly rate €1.20, daily rate €5. AU your itinerary. Tour guides and English interpreters available rare. Just make sure that the meter is running before you on request.Qvia Sorgono 12, Monserrato, tel. (+39) 329 615 set off. The starting rate is €3 (€5 on Sundays and public 89 88, [email protected], www.sardiniadriver.com. holidays, €5.50 between 22:00 and 06:00) with a per kilo- Car rental Book in advance. Prices on request. PTU metre rate of €0.90, which goes up to €1.30 at night time or All you need to rent a car is a credit card, an ID card or pass- when driving out of town. Few taxi drivers speak English, so port and valid driving licence. Some companies do require it’s a good idea to write down the address, or to call some- a minimum age and minimum driving experience. If rent- Guided tours one who can explain. ing a car with children you must also rent the appropriate L’Isola che vorrei seat or cushion for their age and weight. A young and dynamic group of professionals organise Radio Taxi 4 Mori guided tours of Cagliari and surrounding areas. You’ll set Qtel. (+39) 070 40 01 01, [email protected], www. Avis (airport) QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 off on foot or on a small coach with one of the friendly tour cagliaritaxi.com. Operating 24/7. 24 00 31, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 07:30 - 22:30. guides, ready to go and explore the historical city centre or the beach or some of Cagliari’s underground sites. In Radio Taxi Rossoblù Avis (city) QC-4, via Roma 16, tel. (+39) 070 67 49 fact, you can have your tailor-made tour and can venture Qtel. (+39) 070 66 55, fax (+39) 070 65 81 30, info@ 03, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun out as far as Villasimius, Nora or Barumini, just to name a radiotaxirossoblu.com, www.radiotaxirossoblu.com. 10:00 - 13:00. few. Tours in English, German, French and Spanish.QB-3, Operating 24/7. 28 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 29 Shopping Shopping in new materials, coloured glass, silk and silver. Across the road at n. 13 you will find a selection of genuine made in Italy clothes, collections by Lo Spaventapasseri of Genoa and colourful, ethnic garments which embrace different styles. If you want fashion with originality and, of course, quality these two delightful boutiques are a must!QB-3, via Mazzini 12-13, tel. (+39) 070 66 56 46/(+39) 070 66 93 93, [email protected], info@ nagagioielli.com, www.nagadigiacomodallari.it, www. nagagioielli.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:15 - 20:15, Mon jewelry design Cagliari 17:15 - 20:15. Closed Sun. Jul - Aug 10:00 - 13:00, 17:15 - and clothes via G. Mazzini 12 - 13 20:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Shopping in Cagliari is not just running around a shopping making easier! The usual gastronomic delights are on of- Food centre but actually strolling down the city’s narrow, cob- fer, perfect for picking up ingredients for an impromptu Delizie di Sardegna bled streets while enjoying the marvellous experience of picnic lunch. Once you’re back outside, you can admire This shop offers a truly large selection of very good qual- shopping. Italy is famous for its high-end fashion and Cagli- the excellent view it has over the city.QB-3, scalette ity only-Sardinian products. Be tempted by traditional cakes, ari is no exception. You can find anything from your typical Santa Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 39. Open 07:00 - honey and jams, as well as other organic products of the island, street bargain to high-end fashions and couture. 14:00. Closed Sun. such as olive oil, artichokes in oil, myrtle wine and fil’e ferru (a Bear in mind that shops are closed on Sundays and the major- type of local grappa), just to name a few. Also a good range ity also close at lunchtime. Lunchtime closing hours vary from Mercato San Benedetto of typical Sardinian linen and ceramics for sale. You can also shop to shop but most close from 13:00/13:30 to 16:30/17:00. If you are looking to buy and taste locally grown fresh produce order a cabinet or a chest, and the shop manager will arrange then you are in the right place. Mercato San Benedetto is one of the shipping to your home address. Tailor-made Sardinian the biggest fresh produce markets in Europe. Opened in 1957, costumes can be created, though allow up to a few weeks for Department Stores it is a two level structure of about 4,000 square metres each. final delivery. If you’re looking for a gift to bring back home, Via Sardegna 22, Cagliari la Rinascente The fish-seafood department is located on the ground floor there’s also a large variety of souvenirs to choose from.QB-3, (a must see) while the fresh produce sections such as, meat, Tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80 - 349 059 89 88 For those who love shopping but hate going from shop via Sardegna 22, tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80/(+39) 349 059 89 [email protected] to shop, la Rinascente is a one stop shop. A high-end de- cheese, fresh baked bread, locally grown organic fruit and 88, [email protected], www.deliziedisardegna.it. partment store that has something for everyone. Whether vegetables are located on the upper floor. There are about 240 Open 09:30 - 20:00. you are looking for that perfect evening dress or an ev- stalls available to visit and buy products from. If this is not part ery day to day bag or maybe a new pair of sunglasses or of your travel guide itinerary then you must include it. It is not Panetteria di Susanna Sorchi why not, a new watch, this department store has it all. your typical market. The vendors are extremely friendly and Delicious bakery and delicatessen conveniently located in Men’s, women’s, children’s luxury collections, beauty, ac- welcoming while offering their costumers a once in a lifetime the city centre. The small shop window is crammed with cessories, houseware items and lingerie. Impossible to experience. Savour a couple of hours mingling with the locals delights which will whet your appetite. It offers a vast selec- miss.QB-3, via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 65 32 71, www. and tourists while visiting this lively market.QC-1, via Cocco tion of freshly baked bread, including pane carasau (music rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun Ortu, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 96, www.mercatosanbenedetto. bread), pastries and Sardinian biscuits, pardulas and amoret- 10:00 - 21:00. com. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ti, but also a delicious array of local cured meats, cheese, honey and jams, as well as Sardinian speciality pasta and Markets Fashion culurgiones (dumplings).QB-3, piazza Yenne 21, tel. (+39) 333 492 78 85/(+39) 340 893 72 06, susanna.sorchi@ Mercato di Santa Chiara Naga tiscali.it. Open 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. It is the oldest of the current municipal markets, having Just behind the busy pedestrian shopping street of via opened its doors in 1955, and has all the charm and per- Manno lie these two charming boutiques. Via Mazzini n. sonality befitting such a title. It has only one floor and a 12 specialises in handmade jewellery and accessories in- Jewellery handful of stalls, but this should at least make decision spired by the colours of Sardinia, essential designs crafted Loredana Mandas In Loredana Mandas’s laboratory, one of the few filigree jewellery artisans in southern Sardinia, you can experi- ence the thrill of art in progress as you watch her creat- ing hand-made jewellery typical of the island’s rich craft traditions. Her shop window abounds in unique pieces of artwork from traditional ethnic jewellery to geometric motifs, pendants, earrings and rings embellished with precious and semiprecious stones. If no one is in the shop ring the bell on the right, as Loredana lives just above the shop and will come down and assist you.QB-3, via Sicilia 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 48, [email protected], www.loredanamandas.com. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.

30 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 31 Lifestyle Directory Fratelli Binelli QA-3, via Pola 14, tel. (+39) 070 65 Dentists 83 65, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo BaireQA-3, - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. via Roma 52, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 00, cosbaire@gmail. com, www.centroodontoiatricosardo.com. Open 08:30 Kindergartens - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Baby in Giardino QC-3, via Lanusei 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 43 46, [email protected], www. Studio Dentistico Associato Caruso QB- babyingiardino.it. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16, tel. (+39) 070 68 22 22, www.dentistacaruso.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Chatterbox Kindergarden and primary school. All classes Sun. held in English. Fully qualified English-speaking staff.QA-4, viale La Plaia 11, tel. (+39) 070 684 85 51/(+39) 345 387 86 Studio Odontoiatrico Associato Fal- 47, [email protected], www.chatterboxenglishschool. coni QA-3, via Mameli 222, tel. (+39) 070 27 21 20, co.uk. Open 07:45 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. [email protected], www.studioodontoiatricofalconi. com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Inglese Closed Sat, Sun. English language kindergarten.QC-1, via Rossini 13, tel. (+39) 328 859 37 83. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners Launderettes Desogus QC-2, via Satta 54, tel. (+39) 070 66 35 03. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Le Lavanderie del Corso This central self-service Closed Sun. launderette is very handy and well-equipped. Easy to use modern washing machines are available in a clean environ- Lavasecco Pony QC-3, via del Collegio 11, tel. ment, as well as driers and a laundry press. There is also a (+39) 070 65 86 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - deposit service for a small charge if you want to leave your 13:00. Closed Sun. laundry there.QA-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 270, tel. (+39) 392 923 71 48, www.lelavanderiedelcorso.com. Lavasecco San Giorgio QC-3, via Iglesias 33, tel. Open 07:30 - 22:30. W (+39) 070 66 33 27. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:15 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Libraries Cagliari University Library (Biblioteca Hairdressers & Beauty Universitaria) You must register to borrow books, but you can just walk in to consult their vast selection and Salons while you are there why not visit the impressive 18th cen- Cut&Go! Unisex English, German and Russian spo- tury chamber.QB-3, via Università 32, tel. (+39) 070 66 ken.QD-2, via Cugia 10, tel. (+39) 070 311 40 30, info@ 10 21, fax (+39) 070 65 26 72, www.sba.unica.it. Open cutandgounisex.com, www.cutandgounisex.com. Open 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15 - 13:00. Closed Sun. R 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo It’s the Il Tocco degli Angeli QD-1, via Bellini 51-53, multi-media library located in what used to be a fresh-food tel. (+39) 070 49 83 09/(+39) 339 361 26 30, www. market. Apart from a large selection of books, DVDs and iltoccodegliangeli.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 CDs, the MEM hosts a number of cultural activities. Facili- - 14:00. Closed Sun. ties include a charming cafeteria and a tourist information centre.QA-3, via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 070 677 38 65, Linea Estetica SEM QD-3/4, via Donizetti 78, tel. fax (+39) 070 677 38 66, [email protected]. Open (+39) 070 49 31 25, [email protected], www. 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. RUW CAGLIARI VIA ROMA lineaesteticasem.it. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Opticians Ricciolo QB-3, via Savoia 8, tel. (+39) 070 640 24 99. Ottica CosentinoQC-3, via Sonnino 34/B, tel. * ** ENJOY YOUR SHOPPING -10% -12% Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (+39) 070 65 91 11, [email protected], www. otticacosentino.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat GIVE THIS COUPON AT LA RINASCENTE STORE IN 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 001323 Key cuts CAGLIARI YOU’LL GET 10%* OFF ON YOUR PURCHASES. Capra QB-3, via Sassari 77/A, tel. (+39) 070 65 38 59. Ottica GasperiniQC-2, piazza Garibaldi 42, tel. (+39) *Valid except for regional restriction regulations and only on brands which support the initiative. The discount cannot be combined with other promotions. Not valid for residents in Cagliari. Valid until December 31st, 2014. 40000 Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 070 65 97 10. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. **Tax free: If you are resident in an Extra-EU country and you have spent at least 154.94 euros in the same day, you are entitled to a refund of 12% on the total amount of your purchase. 23 Summer - Autumn 2014 33

Rina_2014_Cagliari_InYourPocket_143x210_c.indd 1 16/04/14 17:36 LIfestyle Directory Street register Ottico Peiretti QB-3/4, via Roma 107, tel. (+39) Abba, via C-2 Crispi, via B-3 Manzoni, via C-1/2 San Domenico, via C-2 Press Box 070 66 31 61, [email protected]. Open 08:30 - 13:00, Alagon, via C-2 Cugia, via D-2 , via B-1 San Giacomo, piazza C-3 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. “Brutally honest.” Alfieri, via C-1 Dalmazia, via A-1 Marghinotti, piazza C-3 San Giacomo, via B/C-2 Alghero, via C-2 Dante, via C-1/2/D-2/3 Marini, via D-2 San Giorgio, via B-2 Wall Street Journal Parapharmacies Amat, via D-2 d'Armi, piazza A-1 Martiri, piazza B/C-3 San Giovanni, via B-1/2/C-2/3 Amendola, piazza C-3/4 De Gasperi, piazza C-3 Martiri, via B-2 San Lucifero, via C/D-3 “Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In L’Officina della Salute Anfiteatro, via B-2 De Gioannis, via D-2/3 Matteotti, piazza B-4 San Mauro, via B-1/2 Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by This parapharmacy is not just for aches and pains. Ven- Angioy, via B-3 De Magistris, via A-3 Mazzini, via B/C-3 San Paolo, via A-4 comparison.” ture inside and you won’t leave empty handed. It has a Angius, via D-1 Deffenu, piazza C-4 Mercato Vecchio, via B-3 San Rocco, piazza B/C-1 vast selection of soothing cures as well as herbal and Annunziata, piazza A-3 dei Pisani, via C-3 Merello I, vico A-2 San Rocco, via B-1 The Independent homeopathic treatments, but also sun creams, body Ariosto, via C-1 del Carmine, piazza B-3 Merello, viale A-1/2/3 San Saturnino, via B-1/2 “From Albania to Ukraine In Your Pocket is a wonderful lotions and cosmetics. Why not spoil yourself with a Arquer, via C-3 Deledda, via C-2/3/D-2 Michelangelo, piazza C-1 San Vetrano, via B-1 Arsenale, piazza B-2 Dessì, largo B-2 Mille, via B-3/4 San Vincenzo, viale A/B-1/2 source of boutique hotels, spas and great little bars.” facial scrub or anti-ageing treatments. The expert, English speaking staff will advise you on your pur- Asproni, via A-3 Dettori, piazza B-3 , via A-1 Sanjust, via D-1 Elle chases and will also help you find the perfect gift to Azuni, via B-3 Dettori, via B-3 Monti, via C-1/2 Sanna Randaccio, via D-1/2 Bacaredda, via B/C-1/2 Don Bosco, via A-2 Napoli, via B-3/4 Santa Croce, via B-2/3 take back home.QB-3, via Angioy 99/101, tel. (+39) “Detailed, carefully researched guides.” Bainsizza, via A-2 Donizetti, via C-1/2/D-1 Negri, via C/D-2 Santa Margherita, via B-2/3 070 311 01 22, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - Barcellona, via B-3/4 Duomo, via B-3 Nicolodi, via A-1/2 Santa Restituta, via B-2/3 Daily Mail 18:00. Closed Mon. A Barone Rossi, via C/D-3 Einaudi, via C-2 Nuoro, via C/D-3 Sant'Agostino, via B-4 , via A-1 Eleonora d'Arborea, via C-3 Oristano, via C-3 Sant'Alenikedda, via B/C-1 “Solid, reliable information on everything from where Baylle, via B-3/4 Fadda, via D-2 Oslavia, via A-2 Sant'Efisio, via B-2/3 to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 Photo service Bellini, via C-1 Fais, via C/D-2 Ospedale, via B-2/3 Sant'Eulalia, via B-3 hours in a city.” Photo ServiceQD-2, via Tuveri 14/B, MRepub- Belvedere, via B-2 Fara, via B-2/3 Ozieri, via B/C-2 Sant'Eusebio, via C-2/3/D-3 The Guardian blica, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 09. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 Boito, via C/D-1 Farina, via C-2 Pacinotti, via C-1 Sant'Ignazio, via A-2/3/B-3 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Bonaria, piazza D-3/4 Fiume, via B-2 Paganini, via D-1 Sardegna, via B-3 “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guide- Bonaria, viale C-3/4/D-3/4 Foscolo, via C-1 Pais, via B/C-1 Sassari, via B-3/4 books.” Bosa, via B/C-2 Fossario, via B/C-3 Palazzo, piazza B-2 Satta, via C-2 Shoe repairs Bottego, via D-3/4 Fra' Nicola da Gesturi, via A/B-2 Palomba, via D-2 Savoia, via B-3 The New York Times Calzoleria di Fabrizio AtzeniQD-2, via Tuveri Buon Cammino, viale A/B-2 G. Benedetta, via B-1 Paoli, via C-1/2 Scano, via D-1/2 62, tel. (+39) 348 352 07 17. Open 07:30 - 13:00, 15:30 - Buragna, via B-3 Gallura, via C-3 Pascoli, via C-1 Sicilia, via B-3 “Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat Caboni, via D-2/3 Garavetti, via D-1/2 Perdixedda, via A-4 Siotto Pintor, via B-2/3 20:00. Closed Sun. European destinations, In Your Pocket‘s guides are com- Cammino Nuovo, via B-2/3 Garibaldi, piazza C-2 Pergolesi, via C/D-1 Sonnino, via C-2/3/4 piled by locals and regularly updated.” Campidano, via C-4 Garibaldi, via C-2/3 Pessina, via D-2 Spano, via B-3 Davide LeccaQD-1, via Cimarosa 124, MGennari, Canelles, via B-2/3/C-3 Gemelli, via D-2 Petrarca, via C-1 Stazione Vecchia, via C-3/4 The Independent tel. (+39) 347 348 30 57. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - Canepa, via D-1 Gennari, largo D-1 Piccioni, via C-3 Stretta, via B-2/3 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike Cao di San Marco, via B/C-1 Genovesi, via B-2/3 Piemonte, via A/B-1 Sulis, via C-3 many expensive travel guides, they are written by na- Caprera, via A-3 Gianturco, via D-2/3 Pierluigi da Palestrina, via C/D-1 Tasso, via C-1 Carboni Boi, via D-2 Giardini Pubblici, via A-1/2/B-1 Pitzolo, via C-2 Tempio, via C-2 tive English speakers living in the city they are writing Sports & Fitness Clubs Carbonia, via C-3 Giardini, via B-1/2 Pola, via A-3 Tigellio, via A-3 about.” Athlon ClubQD-2, via Degioannis 5, tel. (+39) 070 Carducci, via C-1/2 Goceano, via C/D-3 Ponchielli, via D-1 Tiziano, via C-1 The Irish Times 34 40 41, [email protected], www.athlonsport.it. Carlo Alberto, piazza B-2/3 Gramsci, piazza C-3 Porcell, via B-2 Todde, via C-1 Open 07:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Carlo Felice, largo B-3 Ichnusa, piazza C-3 Porcile, via C-3/4 Tola, via C-2 “With so many European cities now within easy range, Carloforte, via A-3 Iglesias, via C-3 Porto Scalas, via B-3 Torino, via C-3 this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your FormakalarisQD-3, via Caboni 7, tel. (+39) 070 Carrara, via D-2 Indipendenza, piazza B-2 Principe Amedeo, via B/C-3 Toscana, via A/B-1 holiday. The guides are free to download and print off 30 78 32/(+39) 070 204 42 85, www.formakalaris.com. Carso, via A-2 Irpinia, piazza B-1 Puccini, via C-1/2/D-1/2 Trentino, via A-1 Catalani, via C/D-1 Istria, via A-1 Pula, via A-4 Trento, via A-3 as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. and what to see on European city breaks.” Cavour, via B/C-3 Kennedy, piazza B-1 Regina Elena, viale Trieste, viale A/B-3 Cherubini, via C/D-2 La Maddalena, via B-3 B-2/3/C-2/3 Tristani, piazza B-1 The Times Swimming Pools Cima, via B-3 La Plaia, viale A/B-4 Regina Margherita, Tristani, via B-1 Cimarosa, via C-2/D-1/2 La Vega, via B-1 piazza C-3 Tuveri, via D-1/2 “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English AcquasportQG-3, viale Diaz 227, tel. (+39) 070 30 Cimitero, piazza D-3 Lai, via C-1 Regina Margherita, , via A-1 language writer who lives locally. All information is also 70 04/(+39) 070 34 37 51, [email protected], Cimitero, viale D-3 Lamarmora, via B-2/3 viale C-3/4 Università, via B-3 available on the publisher’s website.” www.piscineacquasport.it. Open 07:00 - 16:00, 18:15 Cino da Pistoia, via C-1 Lanusei, via C-3 Repubblica, piazza C/D-2 Verdi, via C/D-1 - 21:15, Tue, Thu 09:15 - 16:00, 18:15 - 21:15, Sat 09:15 - Cocco Ortu, via C-1 , via A-1 Riva di Ponente, via A/B-4 Vittorio Emanuele II, Sueddeutsche Zeitung 13:00. Closed Sun. Collegio, via C-3 Lepanto, via C-3/4 Roma, via A/B-3/4/C-4 corso A/B-3 Collegio, vico B/C-3 , via A/B-1 Rossini, via C-1/2 Vittorio , via A-2 “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned Colombo, viale C/D-4 Logudoro, via C/D-3 Salaris, via B/C-1 XX Settembre, via C-3 out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and Tennis Courts Concezione, via B-3/4/C-3/4 Lombardia, via A-1 Salento, piazza B-1 XXIV Maggio, via C-2 other travel hazards. They have become a European Corelli, via C-1 Macomer, via C-2 San Benedetto, piazza C-1 Yenne, piazza B-3 publishing phenomenon.” Tennis Club Cagliari Hosted the 2013 Fed Cup Fi- nal.QD-1, via Gemelli 2, tel. (+39) 070 49 26 47/(+39) 345 Corte d'Appello, via B-2/3 Malta, via A/B-3 San Benedetto, via C-1 Costa, via B/C-1 Mameli, via A/B-3 San Cosimo, piazza C/D-3 International Herald Tribune 437 36 20, [email protected], www. Costituzione, piazza C-3 Manno, via B-3 San Domenico, piazza C-2 asdtennisclubcagliari.it. Open 07:00 - 23:00. 34 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com Summer - Autumn 2014 35

Index

4 Mori 12 CTM Point Viale Trieste 27 Martinelli’s 16 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 27 A&R Bundes Jack 13 Cut&Go! Umisex 33 MEM Mediateca del Sixt 28 Acquasport 34 Davide Lecca 34 Mediterraneo 33 St Anne’s Church (Chiesa di Air Berlin 27 Delizie di Sardegna 31 Mercato di Santa Chiara 30 Sant’Anna) 24 Air One 27 Desogus 33 Mercato San Benedetto 30 St Augustine’s Church (Chiesa Alitalia 27 Due Colonne 12 Meridiana 27 di Sant’Agostino) 23 Almea 13 EasyJet 27 Metrocagliari 29 St Eulalia’s Church, Antica Residenza Marina di Elephant Tower (Torre Minoan Air 27 archaeological site and Castello 13 dell’Elefante) 19 Miramare 11 Treasure Museum (Chiesa di Athlon Club 34 Elizaveth 13 Mojito 18 Sant’Eulalia, area archeologica Austrian Airlines 27 Etihad Regional 27 Molentargius Saline Park e Museo del Tesoro) 23 Avis (airport) 28 Europcar (airport) 28 (Parco Naturale Regionale St James’s Church Avis (city) 28 Europcar (city) 28 Molentargius Saline) 26 (Chiesa di San Giacomo) 24 Baby in Giardino 33 EXMÀ 25 Museum of Siamese Art St Michael Castle (Castello Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria Fior di Loto 13 (Museo d’Arte Siamese di San Michele) 26 (Basilica di Nostra Signora di Formakalaris 34 Stefano Cardu) 21 St Michael's Church (Chiesa Bonaria) 26 Forte Village 11 Naga 30 di San Michele) 25 Basilica of St Saturnin (Basilica Fratelli Binelli 33 National Archaeological St Pancras Tower (Torre di di San Saturnino) 25 Germanwings 27 Museum (Museo Archeologico San Pancrazio) 21 Basilica of the Holy Cross Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Nazionale) 22 St Restituta's Crypt (Cripta (Basilica di Santa Croce) 19 Inglese 33 National Gallery (Pinacoteca di Santa Restituta) 24 Bicincitta 27 Hertz (airport) 28 Nazionale) 22 Stefano Scalas 27 Bobocono 15 Hertz (city) 28 Old Square Irish Pub 18 Studio Dentistico Associato Botanical Garden (Orto Holiday Inn Cagliari 11 Old Town Hall (Antico Caruso 33 Botanico) 24 Hostaria Sa Osa 14 Palazzo di Città) 20 Studio Odontoiatrico Brussels Airlines 27 House of Tigellius (Villa di Opera House (Teatro Lirico Associato Falconi 33 Bus Station (Stazione ARST) 5 Tigellio) 24 di Cagliari) 10 Su Cuile 14 Caesar’s 11 Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Ospedale Brotzu 6 T Hotel 11 Café Barcellona 17 Maria 12 Ospedale Civile San Teatro Civico di Castello 10 Caffé dell’Elfo 18 Il Tocco degli Angeli 33 Giovanni di Dio 6 Tennis Club Cagliari 34 Caffé Libarium 18 Indoor Promenade Ospedale Marino 6 The Ghetto (Centro Comunale Cagliari Hostel Marina 13 (Passeggiata Coperta) 19 Ottica Cosentino 33 d’Arte e Cultura Il Ghetto) 21 Cagliari University Library Infopoint Aeroporto Elmas 7 Ottica Gasperini 33 Tirrenia 5 (Biblioteca Universitaria) 33 Infopoint Molo Sanità 7 Ottico Peiretti 33 Train Station (Stazione Cagliari-Elmas Airport 5 Italia 12 Panetteria di Susanna Sorchi 31 ferroviaria) 5 Calamosca 12 L'Isola che Vorrei 27 Panorama 12 Trenino Cagliaritano 27 Calzoleria di Fabrizio Atzeni 34 L’Officina della Salute 34 Photo Service 34 University and Old College Capra 33 La Grotta 15 Piazza Yenne 24 (Palazzo dell'Università ed ex Cathedral Museum (Museo La Paillote 18 Poetto beach 26 Seminario) 21 del Duomo) 19 La Rinascente 30 Pullman Timi Ama Sardegna11 Vai che ce n'è di più 16 Cathedral of Saint Mary of the La Terrazza 13 Radio Taxi 4 Mori 29 Via Roma and Town Hall Assumption (Cattedrale di Lavasecco Pony 33 Radio Taxi Rossoblù 29 (Palazzo Comunale) 23 Santa Maria Assunta) 19 Lavasecco San Giorgio 33 Regina Margherita 12 Volotea 27 Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Lazaret (Lazzaretto) 26 Ricciolo 33 Vueling 27 Vipera) 26 Le Lavanderie del Corso 33 Ritual 18 Wax Anatomical Models Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo Le Patate & Co. 14 Roman Amphitheatre Museum (Museo delle Cere Baire 33 Linea Estetica SEM 33 (Anfiteatro romano) 24 Anatomiche Clemente Chatterbox 33 Livingstone 13 Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) 20 Susini) 22 Choco & Tea 17 Lord Nelson 15 Ryanair 27 X-MEM 7 City Gallery of Modern Art Loredana Mandas 31 Saint Remy Rampart Zaza doner kebab 14 (Galleria Comunale d'Arte Lufthansa 27 (Bastione Saint Remy) 20 Moderna) 25 Maggiore (airport) 28 San Domenico 17 City Tour Cagliari 27 Maggiore (city) 28 Sardegna 12 CTM Point Piazza Man.Gia. Senza Glutine 16 Sardinia Tourist Guide 29 Matteotti 27 Marina di Portus Karalis 5 Sardinya 28

42 Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com