FREE June 2008 Edition 44 krakow POST ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Krakow Uncertain future for Plac Nowy >> page 3

Poland Sex scandal puts Self- Defence on the defence >> page 8

Feature Euro 2008 wall chart, facts and figures >> page 10, 11

Business Investment funds in >> page 13

Sport

Two presidents, one goal / photo Bartosz Krupa/East News Poland’s rocky road to Euro 2008 >> page 12 FRENCH CONNECTION Culture Looted cross returns to Poland In addition, Sarkozy announced step in May 2009, the restric- >> page 15 that Paris will lift restrictions tions are to be abolished nearly on Polish workers in France as a year ahead of schedule. France to open job of July 1st this year, the same day on which the country is As a result, the French labour life to take over the half-yearly EU market will soon be open to all City market to Poles presidency. “It’s a very impor- workers from the eight former tant decision,” said Kaczynski. communist countries that > by night “We want to be a fully-fledged joined the EU in 2004. Citizens Notes From the Adelina Krupski member of the EU.” of Poland, , Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Slov- Underground Unlike Britain, Ireland and enia and the Czech Republic /CL 2 onfirming their coop- signed agreement signifies that , which chose to allow will be able to work freely in eration, French Presi- Poland and France have recon- complete access upon enlarge- France, regardless of their pro- > reviews dent Nicolas Sarkozy ciled after the negativity that ment, France preferred to keep fession. However, restrictions Cand his Polish coun- arose under former President its labour market closed to new will continue to apply to work- Drop In, Fork Out, terpart Lech Kaczynski signed Jacques Chirac, partly due to EU members until they had un- ers from Bulgaria and Romania, Get Served a declaration on strategic part- differences over the US-led in- dergone a five-year transition which joined the EU only last /CL 3 nership at the second Polish- vasion of Iraq. period. Considering France year. Furthermore, work re- French summit, held in originally planned to take this strictions still remain in force > spotlight on the 28th of May. in Germany, Austria, Denmark and Belgium. Jewish Culture Festival The document, covering issues “It’s a very important de- previewed regarding energy, education Sarkozy emphasised that he be- /CL 5 and security, obliges the two cision,” said Kaczynski. lieves in the free movement of countries to collaborate closely people and goods inside Europe > posted on political, economic, social “We want to be a fully-fledged and declared France wants to and cultural affairs both in bi- work “side by side” with Poland Concerts, exhibitions & lateral relations and in discus- member of the EU.” during its entire presidency of parties sions with the EU and NATO. the EU. As the largest >> /CL 6, 7, 8 More importantly, the newly of the eight countries 2 2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

involved, Poland cut its unemploy- << Continued from 1 Indian Woman Letters ment rate to 9 percent, demonstrat- Murdered by Polish ing high economic growth and “the ambition to develop in a sus- From the editor tained way.” Accordingly, Sarkozy said France should approach Husband Poland with understanding. Praise and complaints addressed Grażyna Zawada The news was also well received by the European Commission. A 36-year-old Pole murdered his to the editor Vladimir Spidla, European Commissioner for Employment, Social Indian wife and buried the body Affairs and Equal Opportunities, said, “I warmly welcome the fact in the garden. The terrible in- that the French government has reconsidered the restrictions on cident took place in Raciborsko free movement of workers in force since May 2004.” According to near Wieliczka, the salt mine city Hello KP Readers, Spidla, “Fully opening the job market to citizens of the eight mem- east of Krakow. The man had lived ber states from Central and Eastern Europe will bring benefits to there since April in a rented house I really wanted to fill this space with let- the economy and to the country as a whole.” together with the victim, 27-year- ters from you this month. But while we’ve old Jooaki and their 3-year-old received plenty of verbal feedback and e- Don’t The EC report on the functioning of transitional measures from son. The two met in the US, lived mails about the first “new” edition of the February 2006 shows that, over the first two years following the in England and in spring this year Post, we didn’t receive any actual letters to expansion, migration flows have had positive economic effects in they moved to Poland. be published. So, I’d like to use this space like“ a those countries that did not restrict free movement from the eight to encourage something that is essential to new Member States. For instance, they helped to relieve labour The forensic evidence revealed running a publication such as this one: feed- story? market shortages and contributed to sustained economic growth that two weeks ago the husband, back. and to better public finances in the countries concerned. an art historian by profession, murdered Jooaki with several Don’t like a story? Or a writer? Write to us! For France, which suffers a shortage of skilled labour despite its blows of a dull object and buried Do like a story, but would like to share an- relatively high 7.5 percent unemployment rate, migration from the body about 30 metres away other perspective? Write to us as well! As Or a Eastern Europe is seen as part of the solution, especially seeing as from the house. the debate section (see p. 5) this month is a the country has been gradually opening its job market to workers pretty hot topic, particularly for ex-pats who writer? from the east since May 2006. The whole case would have never have lived in Krakow for several years and come to light if it wasn’t for Joon- have seen the evolution of Kazimierz, I’m ...migration During his one-day visit, the aki’s sister, who came from Eng- expecting plenty of contrasting viewpoints French president also met with land to visit her. When she didn’t from our readers. Then there’s the opinion flows have had posi- Prime Minister to find her there, she informed the piece, which is, well, opinionated. So, if you Write talk over the Polish initiative on police. Soon afterwards the hus- agree or disagree with any of these pieces, “tive economic ef- the EU foreign policy and fur- band reported her missing, claim- or if you quite fancy the fonts we’re using ther eastern expansion toward ing that she’d gone out, but had or our neat Euro 2008 wall chart – whatever to us! fects in those coun- the former Soviet republics, no- left no message as to where. – write to us! tably , Georgia and Az-

tries that did not erbaijan. In the case of Ukraine, Afterwards the Indian embassy

You might also notice some changes in Poland has been a strong sup- began a search for the missing this issue; we’ve increased our circulation restrict free move- porter of its establishing closer woman and launched an inves- to 50,000 copies from the initial 20,000, “ ties with both the EU and NATO. tigation. The police questioned and we’ve increased the paper to 28 pages. ment from the eight Sarkozy said France will also the husband and identified him as Thanks to suggestions from our readers and seek closer links between the a chief suspect. Biological clues staff journalists, we’ve added one new fea- new Member States EU and Ukraine. found at the crime scene led to ture so far - a language section, designed to the body and the suspect admit- help those learning Polish (p. 17) – and there Tusk responded warmly to the ted to having committed the are plenty more in the works. We’re also encouraging words expressed by Sarkozy, saying it showed that crime. The motive he gave was working on making the Krakow Post website eastern partnership with Ukraine could soon be approved and it a marital disagreement between more interactive, by adding features such as should not be seen as a rival to plans championed by Sarkozy to the two. comments on articles and full stories avail- boost EU-Mediterranean ties. “There is no conflict between these able only online (see interview with J. Orn- two projects, they are complementary,” Tusk said. In Poland there are very few ex- stein, p. 4). amples of Indian woman married “ Finally, Sarkozy congratulated Poland on its decision to take part to Polish men. According to Jay- But these changes can only come from your in the EU military mission in Chad, stressing that the move exem- anti Hazra de Varion, an Indian feedback, so if you have anything to say – plifies the engagement of Poland in shared political processes as woman married to a former Polish write to us! well as a commitment to the security of the EU. Following meet- ambassador to Britain, only three ings with Sejm Speaker Bronislaw Komorowski and Senate Speaker Indian women in Poland are mar- Sincerely, , Sarkozy delivered a speech to the parliament, ried to Poles. At www.forum.gaze- Anna Spysz in which he acclaimed Poland as a great nation of Europe. ta.pl acquaintances of the couple Editor-in-Chief express their shock and disbelief – according to user “Requiem” the man had difficulties with “finding letters to the editor his place on earth.”

he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for Tpublication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e- about mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves krakow POST the right to edit letters. Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: or by post at ISSN: 1898-4762 Culture Editor Michal McSperrin-Kossak, www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post [email protected] Sales Manager Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a Mark Bradshaw, Publisher Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] +48 (12) 421 4865 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 3 News Krakow

commissioned by the associa- Uncertain Future tion revealed that a significant proportion of local residents use the market at least once a for Plac Nowy week and do not want to lose it; it is the only place to buy fresh Ewa Spohn fruit and vegetables in the im- mediate vicinity (the nearest alternative is a 15 minute walk away at the Hala Targowa). lac Nowy in Kazimierz a private company owned by Their petition has almost 700 has been a place of trade a group of its traders. In 2002, signatories, with support com- Pfor both Christian and this contract was renewed for ing from as far afield as the UK, Jewish communities since it a further 30 years without a France and the US. was created in the late 19th public tender. The company century. The round building in is owned by 26 individuals, The association has also been the middle, known as the “Ok- some of whom are still trad- meeting councillors individu- raglak,” was built later and was ers and enjoy preferential rates ally to discuss the changes and “Okraglak” - Plac Nowy / photo Stuart Wilson the only place in the city where for their pitches, their trading has found some support. A you could buy both kosher and expenses paid for, and a share all of Krakow’s market squares these cafes will serve tea, cof- number of them have privately non-kosher meat right up until of the substantial profits. As until midnight, and in the case fee, beer and cakes but no spir- admitted that the Council oper- the Second World War. the square is a UNESCO World of Plac Nowy until 2 am. its. ates on a “scratch my back and Heritage site, repairs and reno- I’ll scratch yours” approach After the war, Kazimierz’s for- vations are covered from the The residents of Plac Nowy al- The City Council’s official rea- to getting each other’s resolu- tunes declined and by the late city’s budget. ready suffer from problems son behind the changes is that tions passed, which is probably 1990s crime was rife, making it with rubbish and noise. They they are a way of supporting why the potential implications a place one wouldn’t visit out While the amount, quality and are unhappy, not only about business and attracting tour- of these changes were not dis- of choice. Its fortunes turned variety of produce sold in the the lack of consultation by the ism. However, this seems to fly cussed in full. around in the late 1990s as market has declined over the democratically elected council- in the face of the strategy of the artists started to move in to last decade, the area around the lors, but also about the pros- city’s marketing policy, which No one doubts that Plac Nowy the dilapidated buildings, at- market is thriving. Many of the pect of Plac Nowy being turned promotes Krakow as a place for needs to be redeveloped, but tracted by cheap rents and the surrounding buildings house into a permanent Oktoberfest. culture rather than partying. there is a fundamental con- proximity to the Old Town. The bars and cafes that are popu- flict between a privately owned first cafés (Singer Café and Al- lar both during the day and at Representatives of Kazimierz In early 2008, residents and company that has a duty to chemia) opened on Plac Nowy night. sp. z o.o. maintain that the idea friends of the square launched maximize profits for its share- in 1999. of cafes is critical for the future an association called “Przyjazny holders, and the residents who In late 2007, local media re- of the square, as the selling of Kazimierz” (“Friendly Kazimi- think it inappropriate for the In 1992, a 10-year contract for ported that the city’s council- fruit and vegetables doesn’t erz”) to push for a more sus- future of a historic public space the running and management lors had passed a new by-law bring in enough revenue. They tainable approach to the devel- to be decided on by a private of the square was awarded to that allows sale of alcohol on say that their intention is that opment of the square. Research corporation. Medical Tourists Hit Krakow

Shots of novocaine may soon be competing equally with shots of “Revenue from medical tourists vodka as city dentists and doctors tap the tourist industry already makes up approximate- ly 20 percent of our business. Sebastian Leitich I can see it going up in the fu- hands of Dr. Tomek Nowak, a was not only about savings. I ture,” says Dr. Nowak. local dentist who spends much couldn’t get a private dentist in Lee Nicholson flashes a toothy, of his time peering into the the UK let alone an NHS dentist. So why did the Nicholsons Cheshire cat grin. mouths and repairing the teeth I was in pain and they couldn’t chose Krakow? of Britons at his clinic SGS Den- help me.” “Look what they did to me!” he tamed in the north of the city. “Convenience mostly, but also says, jutting his chin out and But what translates into wads of price. We considered Warsaw running his forefinger over Lee, Dr. Nowak’s first foreign savings and relief for medical but it was easiest to get to Kra- each of his six new prosthetic client, is back in Krakow for tourists like Lee, spells boom kow from where we are than front teeth. “It’s fantastic!” seconds. This time he’s brought time for Dr. Nowak and other anywhere else,” says Lee. his wife, who’s considering im- private medical practitioners, Lee, a retired electronics engi- plants. who are picking up where the Lee’s treatment was arranged neer in his late 60s from Fife NHS and private UK clinics have from start to finish by Perfect in Scotland, is referring to the “Dental care in the UK is abso- failed. Profiles, a UK-based dental work he received at the lute rubbish. Coming to Krakow medical tourism agent. >> 4

/ photo Anna Spysz

>> 4 4 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Lem’s Playground << Continued from 3 A couple of lengthy dentist- chair sessions later, Lee was “Garden of Experiments” dedicated to literary great on a plane back to the UK, with a new set of front teeth, relief coherent, emblematic and aes- from months of pain and ap- Nick Hodge thetically pleasing. The layout proximately 2,000 pounds in was masterminded by Krzysz- pocket. tof Ingarden, best known to une 1st is Children’s Day in Cracovians as the architect of But while companies like Perfect Poland and this year Cra- the Wyspianski 2000 pavilion. Profiles are cashing in on inad- Jcovian youngsters were giv- equate health care in the UK by en a princely present. “Ogrod The installations have been di- sending clients to Krakow, local Doswiadczen” (“The Garden of vided into four zones: Optical, agents are finding it difficult to Experiments”) had its official Acoustic, Liquid and Mechani- get a share of the profits. opening on the 8th of May and cal. Each quarter unfurls like is now fully open to the public. a bough of a tree, in this case “Everybody knows Polish doc- weaving amongst actual mature tors and dentists so there is Spread across six hectares of trees that have endured from no fear of quality, but I don’t landscaped parkland between the former parkland. Platforms, have any customers!” says old Krakow and Nowa Huta, the inspired by the notion of fallen Jerzy Postawska, director of lo- garden has swept science out leaves - thus reflecting the laws cal medical tourist agent Jorge of the dusty classroom. Visitors of physics - provide elegant bas- Group. can literally grasp the doctrine, A hands-on demonstration of sound es for each experiment. Prisms, as over fifty interactive instal- periscopes, tubular bells and “The problem is there’s no lations are up and running, Several luminaries lent their ex- ences for the Senses.” Mrs Szy- rotating stars are a few of the trend for this here.” each demonstrating a different pertise to the project, including monska was especially keen to many installations that visitors phenomenon in the world of architect Krzysztof Ingarden, found the garden in the vicin- can enjoy. There might be no trend in physics. physicist Dr. Marek Golab and ity of Nowa Huta, a district so medical tourism in Krakow in engineer Krzysztof Stepien. Af- often maligned by Cracovians. Stanislaw Lem, whose widow Jerzy’s opinion, but medical The brainchild of Danuta Szy- ter gaining the blessing of the The big break came in late 2004, attended the opening ceremony tourism is big money in Poland. monska, head of the Cyprian late author’s family, the garden when the project gained a boost on May 8th, would have had In 2006, there were 450,000 Norwid Cultural Centre, the was dedicated to Stanislaw Lem, through EU backing. much to savour. As a child, the medical tourists to Poland, leav- garden was jointly funded by the internationally celebrated future literary giant filled count- ing $65 million in their wake. Krakow and EU money and it science fiction writer who lived One of the most striking aspects less notebooks with designs for Revenues were forecast to grow has already scooped a prize in in Krakow for many decades. of the garden is its sculptural machines and contraptions. by one third in 2007 and triple this year’s “Poland Blossoms – quality. Great care has been Until his last days, his favourite by 2013, as reported in Poland Seven Wonders of EU Funding” The idea for the garden was taken to organise the instal- keepsake was a light conduc- Monthly magazine, December competition, winning in the initially sparked by a visit to lations – themselves visually tor, which held pride of 2007. tourist attraction category. Nuremberg’s “Field of Experi- delightful – in a manner that is place on his desk at his >> 7 Jerzy’s only competitor in Kra- kow, Medical Travel Poland, thinks business will soon be Jewish Community Centre Revisited good. “We know the territory better Anna Spysz than anyone else and I think soon there will be many happy clients,” says company direc- t’s been almost one month KP: It’s been one month since tor and recent medical school since I last visited the the opening – what have you ac- graduate Piotr Oleksy. brand-new Jewish Com- complished so far, and what’s Imunity Centre on Miodowa still in the works? Back at Dr. Nowak’s clinic, Lee’s Street, though at that time the wife has opted for implants. atmosphere was completely JO: Considering that the open- This means another tidy sum different. As we reported in last ing was very much dictated by for Nowak and his team, and month’s Krakow Post, the centre the Prince’s schedule - I think savings and relief for Deidre opened with a grand ceremony, we would have wanted the open- Nicholson. The potential for which included a momentous ing to be probably six months growth in medical tourism, es- visit by Prince Charles and Ca- down the road - considering pecially dentistry, in Krakow milla, as well as many other im- that, and the building not being is “immeasurable,” says clinic portant figures, and a throng of completely ready, even without manager Katarzyna Kusio. reporters and photographers. all of these things we’ve man- aged to be remarkably func- It’s this growth that local agents I returned nearly a month later tional. The Klub Seniora, the like Jerzy and Piotr want a share to have a much quieter talk with senior’s club, is up and func- of. Yet, as Krakow’s traditional The senior centre, one of the first functioning rooms Jonathan Ornstein, the centre’s tioning three days a week; we tourism machine purrs into director, and to see what’s go- have the Sunday school func- lectures; a world expert on anti- the infrastructure of the build- high gear for another summer’s ing on at the centre now that tioning, we’ve had the Days of Semitism is coming this week. ing isn’t in place yet. rich pickings, it would seem the commotion from the open- Israel, [during which] we held a The Rabbi has been having Tal- that for now they will have to ing has settled. (See the full in- lot of events here, we had a Sha- mud lessons and Bar mitzvah wait before the dentist’s chair To read more, visit >> terview online at www.krakow- bat dinner here – somehow – for lessons. So we’ve been surpris- and operating theatre start www.krakowpost.com post.com) 120 people. We’ve had different ingly functional even though earning them money. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 5 News Krakow

Debate Section Kazimierz: Revival or Reminiscence? With the Jewish Culture Festival (see Spotlight, City Life) in town this month, Krakow Post discusses a much-debat- ed topic: the “Jewish revival” of Kazimierz. Soren Gauger is sceptical, whilst Duncan Rhodes urges optimism.

efore the devastation of the Second World War, Kazimierz housed a flourishing Jewish community in a newly independent Poland, and the district was home to a large fraction of BKrakow’s estimated 65,000 Jews. It was a historic centre of Jewish culture in southern Poland. However, after the events of the Holocaust decimated Krakow’s Jewish population and scattered the survivors around the globe, the uninhabited district fell into neglect and disrepair for the better part of fifty years. Today, the word on Kazimierz’s streets is “revival” – but is it possible to have a true Jewish revival with so few actual Jews living in Kazimierz? Has the neighbourhood simply become a sort of Jewish Disneyland, catering to tourists who dream of a romantic Jewish past, but lacking any present-day cultural reality? Or have recent events like the opening of the Jewish Community Centre and the popularity of the Jewish Culture Festival shown that there is some true Jewish life amidst the memorabilia?

“It’s terrible to have all these Jewish hotels, restaurants and trinkets in After the events of World War II, it is hardly surprising that those few Jews Kazimierz when this is where they were all massacred, and when so few who did manage to escape Poland and the Holocaust (around ten percent) Jews actually live here now.” haven’t been in a hurry to return. Memories too horrid for most of us to A: Just because something is repeated a hundred times, it does not mean it F: comprehend are indelibly printed on the collective consciousness of an older is necessarily untrue. But it does make the idea strangely suspect; if every tourist notices generation, whilst younger generations of Jews may feel no connection with a land which the same thing at a first glance, then surely there must be some complexity going un- they never stepped foot in – and one which offers less opportunities than many enjoy in noticed, some false bottom to the situation? Bearing in mind, of course, that tourists are America, Canada, Israel, Britain and Australia today. not a species of people celebrated for their perceptiveness and intellectual prowess.

Three years ago, or especially seven years ago, Such a a reality means that Kazimierz will I could have made an unorthodox case for the never flourish as a Jewish district in the same survival of a true Jewish culture in Kazimierz, sense that it did for six hundred years prior to in spite of the almost total formal absence of the war, but it does have a chance to develop Jews, so to speak. This culture was understood sensitively in response to its past, to culti- in a symbolic sense. That is, crossing Dietla vate Jewish culture, and to serve the needs one entered a small zone that was a cultural, of the small but growing Jewish community. and sometimes even legislative alternative I would argue it is already doing that, thanks to Krakow-at-large. A different kind of night- to a small but committed number of Jews and life took place here; the mixture of homeless Philosemites (including Prince Charles) who people, drug addicts, students and Bohemia, have invested time, effort and money in the combined with the unrenovated buildings and district, either for cultural, community or busi- badly functioning streetlamps made for an ness goals. Chris Schwarz’s Galicia Museum, ambience of creative depravity. The first Soup the Jewish Cultural Centre and now the Jewish Festival gave the impression that things were Community Centre are obvious examples of barely under control, and that things could fly the former two, whilst a number of kosher off their hinges at any moment. restaurants such as Ariel, Alef and Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz also undeniably contrib- By this I am not trying to suggest that there was ute to a sense of Jewishness of the district, anything particularly Jewish about Kazimierz, whether they are patronized by tourists or but that it was regarded as an “other” to the mainstream of Krakow’s Old Town, and anyone else. therefore an “other” to the homogenous Polish Catholic lifestyle and value system. You’d have to be quite blind not to detect a sense of Jewishness in Kazimierz (those The most compelling instances of this were when, for example, the (previous) Pope synagogues certainly help), but what about a revival? It’s a sad and oft-stated truth visited Krakow, and all the alcohol shops were shut down in the city for his arrival, to that there aren’t enough Jews living in Krakow to support a revival of Jewish culture by prepare a properly pious atmosphere. During these times the bars and alcohol shops of themselves, but the beautiful paradox of the current situation is that one is happening Kazimierz remained outside of the city-wide jurisdiction – that is, they were enough part anyway. In fact both Cracovians and tourists can be proud that they are actually provid- of another culture that they were somehow outside the moral regulations of the rest of ing the interest, and therefore impetus, for a revival in Jewish culture, whether they have Krakow. any Jewish ties or not. This revival isn’t imagined, but can be measured by the increasing attendance numbers of the Jewish Festival (the final concert attracted 13,000 people in And so, for three days, all of Krakow drank in Kazimierz. 2007), the popular Klezmer concerts that now play in the district’s bars every week and It’s a bit feeble, that it boils down to alcohol like this; but it was a legacy of sorts. the need of a community centre for the growing population. Meanwhile the interest in Jewish culture amongst young Poles is such that the Department of Jewish Studies at Jag- But I started off this text by saying that three years ago – more or less to the moment iellonian University is now oversubscribed. You couldn’t have said that ten years ago. when Poland entered the European Union – I could have made a case for the living pres- ence of Jewishness in Kazimierz; however for the past three years the story of Kazimierz A Jewish revival can only ever be a small part of the development of Kazimierz. Ulti- has been primarily one of gentrification (the Prince of Wales’s bizarre input notwith- mately the area must develop, along with the rest of the world, according to the rules of standing). The steady and cynical development of a “Kazimierz look” for the cafes, the economics. But rather than sweep Jewish culture under the carpet, let’s be thankful that ban on public drinking, and the over-development, piling bars upon bars, have all helped this integral part of Krakow’s history is being preserved, cultivated and celebrated by make Kazimierz an “ordinary” part of Krakow, albeit with a fashionable reputation. today’s generation. 6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Martial Law on Trial Walesa an Informer? Staff Reporter A new report published by the In- stitute of National Remembrance Will Jaruzelski be punished for martial law? (IPN), a body that looks into crimes against Poland by Nazis and Com- munists, states that former Pol- Adelina Krupski ish president Lech Walesa, the Solidarity leader and Nobel Peace Prize winner, collaborated with the Communist Party in the 1970s. ommunist crimes from against the Polish nation, name- Two historians are responsible for over 25 years ago have ly those carried out by officials the text, Piotr Gontarczyk and Sla- resurfaced in a War- of the communist state between womir Cenckiewicz. saw court. Accusing September 17, 1939 and Decem- C Mr. Walesa is alleged to have held the former communist leader of ber 31, 1989, said it would ap- the codename Bolek, and the au- Poland, General Wojciech Jaru- peal the ruling that it need ques- thors seek to prove that under zelski, of imposing martial law tion the high-profile witnesses. this name the Solidarity leader in Poland in 1981, the Institute provided Poland’s security arm of of National Remembrance (IPN) According to Stanislaw Kania, the militia, the SB, with informa- tion about his colleagues between must now revise its indictment then party first secretary and 1970 and 1976. The announcement before the trial can begin. one of the co-accused, these key of the book came on the 25th an- political figures of the 1980s niversary of the former president’s The case against Jaruzelski and “contributed largely to the fact awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize. eight other former officials was that the Soviet Union finally Mr. Walesa is not amused, and even went on national television to say returned to prosecutors on May withdrew from the intention that he in fact knows Bolek person- 14th with an order for documen- to intervene.” As a result, their ally, and unless the authors of the tation from foreign archives as voice plays a critical role in the report don’t divulge the real iden- well as testimony from further case. The testimonies would not tity of the SB officer, Mr. Walesa witnesses. Following a request only provide the additional in- will do it himself. What will hap- / cartoon Dominik Nawrocki pen next is anyone’s guess, but from defense lawyers, the court formation required by the court, it does underline that no one can recommended that the IPN inter- but also clarify the international Wojciech Jaruzelski was solely no time for Poland in 1981, as hide from the continuing IPN witch view leading politicians of the context of the decision to im- accountable for this act. Conse- they were running the opera- hunt, no matter how much good Cold War era, including the last pose the crackdown. quently, the court must examine tion in Afghanistan and had no their subjects have done for the Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, all the documents, especially intention of sending troops to Polish nation. former British Prime Minister The declaration of martial law on those from the Soviet archives, Poland. Saviour of Warsaw Margaret Thatcher and former December 13, 1981 was an opera- and witnesses must be ques- Ghetto Children Dies US Secretary of State Alexander tion against the Solidarity move- tioned. Historian Pawel Machcewicz Haig. ment, preventing the ongoing confirms that the Soviets were Adelina Krupski democratisation processes. As a Accepting full responsibility not willing to intervene in Po- Irena Sendler, a Polish social work- er who saved the lives of around Gorbachev refused to testify in result, Poland suffered extreme for having imposed martial law, land at that time. “In my opinion 2,500 Jewish children during World the trial, regarding the court repression. Over ten thousand Jaruzelski argues he chose the it means that General Jaruzelski War II, died in a Wasaw hospital case as “baseless prosecution.” arrests followed the crackdown lesser of two evils, claiming that had more room for manoeuvre last month at the age of 98. Having written to the judges and and close to one hundred peo- if Solidarity had brought down and that he was not under the to the parliament about the trial, ple were killed when strikes and communism in Poland and the direct danger of Soviet inter- As head of the children’s depart- ment for Zegota, the Council for the former Soviet leader told the demonstrations were crushed by Polish government had not re- vention. He could have sought Aid to Jews, Sendler and her as- official newspaper of the Rus- the army and police. Solidarity sorted to extreme measures, So- agreement with Solidarity.” This sistants were able to enter the sian government, Rossijskaya was banned and its leader, Lech viet troops would have invaded historical evidence belies Jaru- Warsaw Ghetto under the pretext Gazeta, that he has contributed Walesa, imprisoned. A curfew the country. According to Jaru- zelski’s version, suggesting in- of inspecting sanitary conditions all he knows and has nothing new was imposed, telephone lines zelski, “Martial law was a res- stead that Jaruzelski declared during a typhus outbreak. Together they contrived ways to smuggle to add. Gorbachev also stressed were disconnected, television cue for our country and Polish martial law as part of his own out babies and small children, the old age and poor health of channels were shut down and society from a disaster in many agenda. sometimes in baskets, suitcases, or Jaruzelski. If found guilty of national borders were sealed. ways. I uphold this evaluation chests, sparing them certain death “having led an armed organisa- with utmost conviction.” Whatever historical truth emerg- in Nazi extermination camps. tion of a criminal character,” the As Miroslaw Czech from Gazeta es from these proceedings, Once outside the ghetto, the chil- former communist officials face Wyborcza states, “The imposi- However, the IPN claims that Jaruzelski, as former leader dren were taken to trusted Polish up to ten years in jail. tion of martial law ended the preparations to introduce mar- of the Polish United Workers’ families, and later placed in or- peaceful Solidarity revolution. tial law started over a year ear- Party (PZPR), in ordering armed phanages and convents. Sendler The IPN, a commission estab- It destroyed the hopes of mil- lier, in August 1980. Moreover, force against civilians did not kept track of the children’s original lished by the Polish Parliament lions of Poles.” Czech maintains documents collected by the ultimately succeed in bringing and new identities by hiding lists of their names in jars in the hope in 1998 to prosecute crimes that the group led by General IPN show that the Soviets had down Solidarity. The movement that they could find their families re-emerged as a coherent op- once the war ended. position, putting an end to the communist regime with the as- Sendler was arrested and tortured cendance of Walesa as the coun- by the Gestapo in October 1943. After refusing to divulge any in- try’s first freely elected presi- formation, she was ordered to be dent. killed but was secretly freed when fellow members of the Zegota group bribed guards.

A Catholic esteemed by Jews, Sendler was among the first to be honoured by Israel’s Yad Vashem Holocaust memorial. Despite her great courage, Sendler denied she was a hero. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 7 News Poland

School’s Out for Some << Continued from 4 Nuns on the Runway Julie Land Krakow home. Last month, facing falling num- One-day strike by teachers in Poland By a typical twist of eastern bers of enrolments in trainees to fate, Lem was taught math- become priests, monks and nuns, John Walczak ematics as a schoolboy in the Polish Catholic Church decid- Lwow (today Lviv, Ukraine) by ed to change its public image. A Mr. Ingarden’s grandfa- number of Polish churches held a eachers in Poland went ther, the distinguished phi- fashion show and promotional fair on a one-day strike on losopher Roman Ingarden. at the Catholic University in Lub- May 27th demanding Krzysztof Ingarden will lin. At the university’s Collegium Tpay rises. The Polish continue to cooperate with John Paul II, nuns (but not priests Teachers’ Union estimates that The Garden of Experiments, or monks) walked up and down about 70% of schools nationally which is a work in progress. a catwalk decorated with a red took part. Its head, Slawomir A pavilion and a pond are in carpet and displayed habits from Broniarz, appealed to parents the pipeline, and numerous different nunneries throughout to display understanding for events are planned. Poland. the teachers’ protest and to care for pupils at home. Anna Krochmal, director of The fair also boasted PowerPoint the garden, is brimming with presentations, films, prayers, sou- Apart from a 50 percent pay ideas for the enterprise, cit- venirs, and booths where partici- rise by the end of 2010, teach- ing a bookshop, a café, not pants could talk to monks, priests ers want to retain the right to to mention a general expan- and nuns and become acquainted early retirement after 30 years sion across more hectares with their way of life. The fes- of work regardless of their age of parkland: “The garden is tivities peaked with a cake bak- and other benefits laid down in Some children in Poland got an extra holiday especially magical at night, ing contest, in which both orders the Teachers’ Charter. Slawomir when the lights shine up of monks and nuns participated. Broniarz said in a TV interview, “This strike did day of the strike. Broniarz said that no child who through the trees,’’ she says. All of the fanfare was made in an not have to take place were it not for a passive at- would come to school that day would be turned “We are even planning yoga attempt to boost the number of titude displayed by the government and months away – they would be looked after. and Milonga dances - the young people interested in begin- of silence on its part.” possibilities are endless!” ning a career within the Catholic Deputy minister of education Krystyna Szumilas Church. Education minister Katarzyna Hall said that head said the government would hold talks with the Thus far, children have wast- teachers were responsible for the care and safety teachers’ unions in order to prevent another pos- ed no time in getting to grips The dramatic fall in the number of those pupils who turned up at school on the sible strike in September. with the garden’s gleaming of trainees over the last few years installations. Youngsters (last year alone those taking vows have carte blanche to bang of commitment to the church fell on gongs, jump on trampo- by 25 percent from the previous lines and dangle from tele- year) is a problem not just for the graphs. And if one of the Catholic Church in Poland, but for London Youth Convicted experiments is broken by the whole of Europe, as 25 per- an over-enthusiastic pair of cent of Europe’s Catholic clergy of Murdering Pole hands, it can be confidently are trained in Poland. It remains assumed that one man would to be seen if the employment of not be in the least bit trou- habit fashion shows will boost bled – Stanislaw Lem. Indeed, those interested in a life devoted John Walczak some of the funniest passag- to God. es in Lem’s memoir are his descriptions of the fates of 17-year-old man was the gun battle that led to Miss the youths exchanged fire — at his childhood toys, most of unanimously found Pniewska’s death. It is one of least six empty cartridges were which he smashed to smith- guilty on May 22nd the first criminal cases in Eng- found — a stray bullet hit Miss ereens with great relish. A of murdering a Polish land in which a defendant has Pniewska. Speaking of the mo- nursing assistant after starting been convicted of murder de- ment that she realised her sis- a gunfight with another 17- spite not firing the fatal shot ter had been hit, Ms. Luby said: year-old in southeast London nor intending to kill the victim. “I heard several shots.” Ms Luby last year. Magda Pniewska, 26, Gnango insisted that it was his asked: “Who’s shooting? What’s died instantly from a head shot rival who fired the fatal shot. going on?” after she accidentally walked However, Gnango is criminally into crossfire on a housing es- liable because he was jointly It was then that Ms. Luby heard tate in New Cross. responsible for the act that led the fatal shot. “I heard Magda’s to the murder. The other teen- last breath. I heard when she Armel “Toner” Gnango was the ager who fired the fatal shot is fell down. There was silence, hooded youth said by witness- on police bail. He has not been then I heard two more shots.” es to have been grinning as he charged because of a lack of Both gunmen were unharmed fired his 9 mm pistol at another evidence. and fled. Despite frantic tele- masked gun-toting teenager. phone calls, Ms. Luby and her The fight was thought to be Miss Pniewska was walking parents had to wait seven hours over a £100 drug debt. home from work whilst talking before discovering that Miss on her mobile to her sister Elzbi- Pniewska was dead. Gnango did not fire the fatal eta Luby in Poland. Yards away, shot, but was convicted of mur- Gnango had crouched behind a der because he was involved in car, taking aim at his rival. As 8 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Self-Defence on the Defence Crime Flies Sex scandal rocks controversial political party Polish criminals are being flown back home on special “con air” flights

Ania Bienkowska C. Hazen

very month a plane handcuffed for the journey. Not touches down in War- only does this need a minimal saw and a shackled amount of security officers on Eshuffling row of men board, but it streamlines the disembarks, each carrying a sin- process for criminals arriving gle plastic bag of possessions. at airports on pre-scheduled This is the new “con air” flight, days once a month. deporting Polish criminals who have fled abroad to England, The deportation flights began been caught, and are now being in October 2007, and have par- sent back to the homeland to celled down extraditions costs face incarceration. to a quarter of what they had been under the previous sys- The criminals are offenders who tem. March’s flight, which car- have absconded from jail in Po- ried 10 men back to Poland, land or were awaiting trial. Pol- is estimated to have cost just ish authorities have sent nearly £8,000. An average of 15 crimi- 300 requests to English police nals are on board each flight. for criminals they suspect have fled to the UK. P o l i s h - E n g l i s h Many are picked “The de- extradition has up in England on come a long way minor charges, portation since Polish EU but others com- accession in mit the same se- flights May 2004, as an rious crimes they ever-increasing are wanted for in began number of im- “What me, worry?” / photo Natalia Dobryszycka, natalia-natalie.blog.pl Poland. migrants have in Octo- also increased Shipping the the number of criminals back ber 2007, wanted criminals home on an in- seeking anonym- dividual basis and have ity abroad. As was proving very about one in five hile the journalists Lyzwinski faces even more se- Prior to the commencement of costly, with the parcelled crimes in Eng- wait on the outside, rious charges; if convicted he the trial, both men denied the Polish state foot- land are commit- inside the trial of will face up to 10 years in pris- charges. At the time of the ac- ing the bill for the down ex- ted by foreign- WSamoobrona (Self- on. He is accused of demand- cusations and original publica- cost of a regular ers, a need of Defence) party leader Andzej ing and accepting sexual favors tion of Gazeta Wyborcza, Lep- seat on a flight traditions formalized extra- Lepper and former deputy Stan- from four women, and rape. He per stated that this was no more plus two armed dition processes islaw Lyzwinski continues in is also accused of harassment than a political witch-hunt. guards escorting costs to a had long been the circular court in Piotrkow. and threatening that denial of the prisoner - not highlighted; but Since May 6th both men stand sexual favors would lead to the The scandal has received much to mention the quarter of despite a will- on trial for soliciting sexual fa- dismissal of the women from publicity, however the trial is risk to personnel ingness on both vours from females employed their positions and the party. closed to the media at the re- and passengers. the previ- sides to work to- in the party office. quest of Krawczyk’s attorney, Under this sys- gether, no agree- The so-called “Samoobrona sex Agata Kalinska-Moc, who told tem the price of ous sys- ment was made, Lepper was charged in Novem- scandal” or “sex-gate” began the Polish Press Agency (PAP) extraditing 137 in order to not ber 2007 for exploiting his pub- in December 2006 after the that it was to protect her cli- men in 2007 cost tem...” overburden the lic position as a Samoobrona publication of an investigative ent, who wanted to avoid me- upwards of £3 new accession leader to force Aneta Krawczyk, reporting piece appearing in dia attention. Pawel Hochman, million. state with tech- a former Samoobrona employ- Gazeta Wyborcza. The article, the chairman of the court, also nological systems which they ee, into sexual relations with the based on the testimony of An- explained to Dziennk that the Polish authorities have since could not afford at the time. promise of employment. The eta Krawczyk, claimed that she addressed topics could be so arranged the en masse deporta- charges were brought against was hired as the director in the drastic that they will be inap- tion through the Polish military, However, in the past four years, him after Lepper lost the parlia- Lodz office of the Samoobrona propriate for direct media cov- which established the monthly there has been a steady build- mentary elections and also lost party after performing sexual erage. direct flights solely for ship- ing process of sharing warrants his immunity to prosecutions. favours. When journalist Mar- ping criminals. and working on extradition The events in question alleg- cin Kaci interviewed Krawczyk, Needless to say, the highly con- procedures, of which the direct edly took place in 2001-2002. she decided to tell him about troversial affair could put an The planes are rented former flights of Polish criminals is the If charged, Lepper faces a maxi- the hiring process, which was end to the political careers of Soviet Anatov troop transports, latest marker. In the extradition mum of eight years in prison. featured in the original article. both accused men. stripped down to windowless system as it now stands, hulls with long benches on each requests are granted >> 9 side, to which the criminals are through the Serious Or- www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 9 News Poland Opinion

Mis-alliance by Thymn Chase

oland has recently taken centre stage in siles in Poland poses a strategic threat to Poland the vaunted theatre of geo-politics, as itself. This line of reasoning is a bit tough to swal- it is the chosen “third site” for the Bush low. If the US places missiles in Poland, even for PAdministration’s anti-ballistic missile defensive purposes, Poland would immediately defence shield. The negotiations have entered be susceptible to attacks from any third parties, their second year but are rapidly approaching i.e. Russia or Iran, wishing to cripple US strategic a boiling point. Bush and his advisors are frus- military assets. In fact Putin and newly-elected trated and visibly annoyed at Polish PM Don- Russian PM Dmitry Medvedev have both recent- ald Tusk’s refusal to simply roll over to US re- ly reiterated that the US plan threatens Russia’s quests, which is the response Washington has national security and if a missile site were to be grown accustomed to from other Polish leaders, completed then Russia would immediately tar- specifically ones of the twin-brother varieties. get nuclear warheads at Poland. Not so friendly.

On Tuesday May 13th Tusk announced that Po- According to the Bush Administration, the pur- Missile Issues / cartoon by Kasia Adamek land was turning down the US offer of $47 million pose of the missile shield is to defend Poland, to modernize the Polish military in exchange for NATO allies and the EU from potential “rogue” allowing the US to install anti-ballistic missiles in nations like Iran. With this said the US is refus- Poland for its “third site.” This decision came af- ing to provide Poland with the money, resourc- ter a year of negotiations between the US and Po- es and arms to adequately fortify the proposed << Continued from 8 much to public outcry, lawyers land, which started out quite favourable for the US missile base and/or modernize the army to suf- had successfully argued for the shield in May 2007 under the leadership of hawk- ficiently defend itself against the kind of threats ganised Crime Agency (SOCA) release of two violent Polish ish former Polish PM Jaroslaw Kaczynski. Since they would face having such a missile system and give Polish authorities 17 offenders who had fled war- Tusk and his party were elected in placed in Polish territory. “Unless the Americans days to bring captured crimi- rants in Poland and been jailed November, negotiations have grown increasingly significantly improve their offer, we’ll return to nals back to Poland. for crimes committed again in tense and culminated with his decision of May 13th. the talks only with Mr. Bush’s successor in place,” England. Extradition had gone said an official close to both Tusk and Foreign The direct criminal flights be- through, but Polish authori- “The United States, our ally, is completely free to Minister Radek Sikorski, chief Polish negotiator. came an innovative way to com- ties failed to arrange the con make decisions. We have the rights and we will ex- bat the overburdening of judi- air flight in time, and since ercise the right to formulate our own conditions, The gap is widening in terms of the rational de- cial systems in both countries. they had been jailed for three our expectations,” said Tusk. He also acknowl- bate and if negotiations do break down it seems For Poland, the number of ex- weeks past the 17-day extradi- edged that the missile shield is generally unpop- likely that Bush will try to circumvent diplo- tradition requests has risen by tion deadline - a violation of ular in Poland and that it would clearly agitate macy by signing a deal with Kaczynski himself. 14 percent in the last year; this their human rights - they were and antagonize an increasingly aggressive Russia. Those that strongly oppose the missile defense is not only an increase in for- set free. plan can only hope that Tusk has the final say. eign criminals fleeing abroad as In the ensuing weeks after Tusk’s announcement He hasn’t succumbed to the East vs. West Cold much as a sign of Poland fully Even when the criminals are not negotiations have all but broken down. It appears War mentality that has dominated the negotia- implementing the European Ar- released, frustration still re- that Washington has no intention of agreeing to tions and media coverage up to this point. And rest Warrant (EAW) system that mains, as when the flights are Tusk’s appeals for a larger aid package and has even though the US and Russia are clearly as- allows for the process of crimi- not arranged by the deadline, flat out refused to provide Poland with Patriot suming their well-rehearsed roles of forcing nal transfer between EU coun- the issue must go back to court missiles. The strange twist is that even though Poland’s hand, this doesn’t necessarily mean tries. The increase in criminals, for permission to extend the Washington isn’t giving up any strategic conces- that Poland has to once again play the pawn. however, has overburdened the time limit extradition prisoners sions, they are growing more insistent that a deal Polish administration in bring- can be held. This happened last can and must be reached as soon as possible. ing them all back - 257 individ- December when the direct flight For more articles about missile defense log onto: ual flights in total. was delayed due to fog. According to recent statements from assistant www.spacewar.com Secretary of State and head US negotiator Ste- The English system was simi- Of 19 men currently awaiting phen Mull and comments from larly overburdened. To further extradition, nine are already Bush himself, it seems as is if ease the effects of open bor- past the 17-day mark. the administration isn’t taking ders on their judicial system, Tusk seriously at all. Not even the English government began In the wake of Gordon Brown two days after Tusk’s speech INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS a controversial programme refusing the House of Lords’ Bush met semi-secretly with Pol- STUDIES IN ENGLISH that offered foreign criminals request to set caps on immi- ish President Lech Kaczynski. A ROUTE TO AN INTERNATIONAL CAREER £3,000 to serve their sentence gration, foreign criminals are Poland has a dual executive sys- Join us at the Tischner European University – citizens, perfectly prepared to compete in in their home country. The con just another facet to the often tem and technically Kaczynski a young and dynamic higher education the European labour market. Apart from the air flights are allowing for this hyperbolized problems of im- could broker a deal with Bush institution, serving the needs of both Polish Polish study programmes, we offer a rich and international students. We aim to and innovative full time studies in English in unpopular programme to be migrants overburdening social without the consent of Tusk, educate active, self-confident, open-minded the field of International Relations. phased out. systems. At the very least, the Parliament or the Polish people. BA degree 3-year programmes: MA degree 2-year programmes: “con air” flights create a picture International Business Global Business While the flights solve many of with a punch: foreign criminals But for now, the negotiations International Tourism International Tourism the problems faced in interna- are being swept up in bulk and continue and Tusk still has the European Integration Central-Eastern Europe & Russia tional criminal matters in the are being dealt with according- reigns. The US is holding to its Detailed information on study programmes and recruitment procedures is available on the TEU website. EU, the 8-month-old system is ly. claim that the missiles are in no Tischner European University still experiencing some teeth- way a threat to Russia and there- ul. Westerplatte 11 e-mail: [email protected] 31-033 Krakow, POLAND www.teu.krakow.pl tel.: + 48 12 683 24 82 ing problems. In January 2008, fore they deny that placing mis- 10 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 Euro 2008 Kicks Off!

or three weeks this GROUP A GROUP C June half of Eu- June 7th, 18:00 Basel, Switzerland June 9th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland rope, and a large Switzerland Czech Republic Romania France part of the world, June 7th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland June 9th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland Portugal Turkey Netherlands Italy will stop what June 11th, 18:00 Geneva, Switzerland June 13th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland Fthey’re doing, flock to the Czech Republic Portugal Italy Romania nearest TV screen and crack June 11th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 13th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland open a beer, as they watch Switzerland Turkey Netherlands France sixteen of the greatest foot- June 15th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 17th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland balling nations on the conti- Switzerland Portugal Netherlands Romania nent compete for the coveted June 15th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland June 17th, 20:45 Zurich, Switzerland Turkey Czech Republic France Italy European Championship tro- phy. For the first time in the Results Table Group A PWDL GD Pts Results Table Group C PWDL GD Pts competition’s history, Po- 1 1 land will be amongst 2 2 t h o s e nations. 3 3 4 4 Led by Dutch coach Leo Beenhak- ker, Poland man- aged at Quarter Final 1 FINAL Quarter Final 3 their 13th June 19th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 29th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 21st, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland a t t e m p t 1st Group A 2nd Group B 1st Group C 2nd Group D to not only qual- Winner Semi Final 1 Winner Semi Final 2 ify for the Semi Final 1 Semi Final 2 finals, but t o top their quali- fying group June 25th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 26th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria in a memorable c a m p a i g n Winner Winner Winner Winner which included a 2-1 defeat over Quarter Final 1 Quarter Final 2 WINNER Quarter Final 3 Quarter Final 4 Portugal. Despite topping qualifi- cation, Poland nonetheless find t h e m s e l v e s in a tough group Quarter Final 2 Quarter Final 4 comprising of co-hosts Austria, June 20th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 22nd, 20:45 Vienna, Austria a weaker team but surely a 1st Group B 2nd Group A 1st Group D 2nd Group C threat on their home turf, Croa- tia, one of the strongest teams in Results Table Group B PWDL GD Pts Results Table Group D PWDL GD Pts the qualify- ing rounds who twice 1 1 defeated England, and their old foe – Ger- many. The Germans are favourites to win 2 2 both the group and the tournament, but 3 3 with Croatia missing key striker Eduardo da 4 4 Silva through injury the Poles look a strong bet for reaching the quarters. GROUP B GROUP D Group A looks to be the weakest of the four groups with Portugal and Czech Republic June 8th, 18:00 Vienna, Austria June 10th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria favourites to go through ahead of Turkey Austria Croatia Russia and co-hosts Switzerland, whereas Group C June 8th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria June 10th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria has been labelled 2008’s “group of death,” Germany Poland Greece Sweden with giants France, Italy and Holland drawn against one another, along with a strong Ro- June 12th, 18:00 Klegenfurt, Austria June 14th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria manian side. Group D looks to be the most Croatia Germany Sweden Spain open of the four, with Euro 2004 champions June 12th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 14th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Greece set to play serial underachievers Austria Poland Greece Russia Spain, as well as Scandinavia’s only repre- sentative, Sweden, and a promising Russian June 16th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria June 18th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria team. Famously there will be no place for Poland Croatia Greece Spain England, Scotland, Wales or Ireland, all of June 16th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 18th, 20:45 Innsbruck, Austria whom suffered from disappointing qualify- France Germany Russia Sweden ing campaigns.

The action begins on June 7th, at 6 pm when espite taking part in seven World o-hosts Switzerland will be hoping ngland may have not made the Switzerland take on the Czech Republic at DCup Finals, Poland qualified for the Cfor a bit more luck than in World EEuro 2008 finals, but their fans may St. Jakob-Park in Basel, Switzerland. Group Euro Finals for only the first time in 2008. Cup 2006. After drawing 0-0 with France take some consolation from the fact that games will take place until June 18th, with The bookies have them at 41/1 to win the they defeated both Togo and South Korea they inflicted on Austria their worst ever quarter finals kicking off the day after, be- tournament. The Germans are favourites 2-0 only to lose to Ukraine on penalties defeat almost exactly one hundred years fore a small break precedes the semi finals at 9/2, whereas Austria bring up the following a 0-0 draw. They became ago. On June 8th 1908 5,000 specta- on the 25th and 26th June. The final of the rear at 100/1. the first team in the tourna- tors watched England beat their ment’s history to go home hosts 11-1 in the Hohe Warte 2008 UEFA European Football Championship is this year’s favourite to win 2008’s Golden Boot. without conceding a goal in Stadium in Vienna. takes place on 29th June at Vienna’s Ernst regulation time. Happel Stadium. Euro 2008 Kicks Off! Krakow Post JUNE 2008 11 Polska Song

While some were mourning England’s failure to qualify for Euro 2008, two industrious young Brits - William Heth- erington and Rupert Slade - decided to find another team to support, Poland, and wanted to encourage others to do the same. So they wrote a song about GROUP A GROUP C it! Below are the lyrics to the “Polska Song (Come Back Tomaszewski* - All is June 7th, 18:00 Basel, Switzerland June 9th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland Forgiven).” Switzerland Czech Republic Romania France You can listen to this gem at their June 7th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland June 9th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland MySpace page: Portugal Turkey Netherlands Italy www.myspace.com/londontowarsaw June 11th, 18:00 Geneva, Switzerland June 13th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland *Jan Tomaszewski was the goalkeeper of the Czech Republic Portugal Italy Romania Polish team in 1973, who famously kept England June 11th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 13th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland from qualifying for the World Cup that year. Switzerland Turkey Netherlands France

June 15th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 17th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland itting in the pub Switzerland Portugal Netherlands Romania SThe final whistle’s still ringing in my June 15th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland June 17th, 20:45 Zurich, Switzerland ears Turkey Czech Republic France Italy All our hopes are dashed And summer laughter’s turned to tears

Results Table Group A PWDL GD Pts Results Table Group C PWDL GD Pts In the final game, 1 1 All we needed was a draw, 2 2 But Beckham couldn’t bend it, And now three lions roar no more 3 3 4 4 But I’m shaken from my blues The sound of Quarter Final 1 FINAL Quarter Final 3 sing- June 19th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland ing June 29th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 21st, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland 1st Group A 2nd Group B 1st Group C 2nd Group D full of Winner Semi Final 1 Winner Semi Final 2 pride.

Semi Final 1 Semi Final 2

June 25th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland June 26th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria Haven’t Winner Winner Winner Winner you Quarter Final 1 Quarter Final 2 WINNER Quarter Final 3 Quarter Final 4 heard the news? Quarter Final 2 Quarter Final 4 Poland’s gone and June 20th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 22nd, 20:45 Vienna, Austria qualified. 1st Group B 2nd Group A 1st Group D 2nd Group C Polska, Polska, naprzod Results Table Group B PWDL GD Pts Results Table Group D PWDL GD Pts Polska, 1 1 You’re our boys in white and 2 2 red. Polska, Polska, Come on 3 3 Poland. Go where others fear to tread. 4 4 rakowpo From London to Warsaw .k st w .c From The King’s Head to The Swan o w Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska m GROUP B GROUP D w Together we are strong. June 8th, 18:00 Vienna, Austria June 10th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria Austria Croatia Spain Russia Don’t look so down June 8th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria June 10th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Says Magda pulling me another beer, Germany Poland Greece Sweden Wipe away that frown And find yourself another team to cheer. June 12th, 18:00 Klegenfurt, Austria June 14th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria Croatia Germany Sweden Spain Whatever colours we wear June 12th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 14th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Our passion is the same Austria Poland Greece Russia ‘Cos football’s here to share So come and join us in the beautiful game June 16th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria June 18th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Poland Croatia Greece Spain Well my team are firing blanks June 16th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria June 18th, 20:45 Innsbruck, Austria And the summer fills me with woe France Germany Russia Sweden I may not know Krakow from Gdansk But I’m willing to give it a go

panish heartthrob Enrique Iglesias ot to be outdone, Jamaican ragga- he official match ball for 2008, Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska, Shas been chosen to sing the official Nmuffin, Shaggy, has chipped in with Tmade by Adidas, has been fittingly You’re our boys in white and red. Euro 2008 song “Can You Hear Me?” on not one but two UEFA-endorsed efforts of named “EUROPASS.” Silver and black in Polska, Polska, Come on Poland the night of the grand final in Vienna. his own, entitled “Like a Superstar,” and colour, the balls has a special “goose- Go where others fear to tread. UEFA commercial director Philippe Mar- “Feel The Rush.” The video of the latter bump” texture which will help players graff said: “Enrique is the perfect features official mascots Trix and Flix control the ball, no matter what the choice for us - he is an interna- canvassing support in the Carib- weather. The official slogan of From London to Warsaw tional superstar who loves bean before chartering a the tournament is “Expect From The King’s Head to The Swan football and has European jet back to Europe with the Emotion.” Preferably tears Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska roots.” popstar in tow. from Ronaldo... Together we are strong. 12 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com Sporting Post

Rocky Road for Poland to Euro That Other June Championship

Daniël van Hoven C. Hazen

Our sports contributor C. Hazen muses about that other he road to the Euro 2008 of the football scandal taking leaving Real Madrid star Raul June championship, the Stanley Cup Finals, and what appears to be a rocky place under his responsibility. out of the Spanish squad, Been- place hockey holds in this football-obsessed continent. Tone for the Polish na- Ever since, it is believed that hakker decided to not even con- tional football squad, who are Beenhakker might not last long sider Polish football icon Jerzy about to make their debut on enough as head coach of Poland Dudek in his preliminary se- During a recent game, I was getting into it with an this football platform. A lot of to see the qualifications for lection. Both presumed stand- Australian about why European football is so popular. Not in that happenings that took place over World Cup 2010 starting this in goalies Lukasz Fabianski way; even as an American, I appreciate and even, daresay, LIKE the the last couple of months have September. (Arsenal) and Tomasz Kuszc- sport. made the enthusiastic Polish zak (Manchester United) have He was waxing poetic over his beer about the need the pitch fulfills football fans a played far in the human heart, not just of community, of pride, of being a part bit more skepti- fewer offi- of the fan base together, but the field as a stage, for a miniature cal, compared cial games war of sorts, for dramas to unfold, for aggressions to get spent. to last autumn, than Dudek when Poland did at Real Sports in a way are the equivalent of male soap operas – balance clinched their M a d r i d of power, aggrandizing emotions, hyperbolic events; but while the nomination af- this sea- pay-offs in daytime TV are love and intrigue, in sports, it’s running ter a 2-0 win son, which circles around your opponent and perhaps, if you’re lucky, that perfectly placed penalty shot. You get to know the characters, the against Belgium. makes the players, you watch their game grow, their story unfold, how they Poland won their decision re- interact with new environs, this team, that league. q u a l i f i c a t i o n markable, group, beating since the That led me to wonder, what did my favourite sport, ice hockey, tough competi- squad lacks give back to me? What need in my heart, what characteristics did I tion from Ser- real inter- identify with, that made it so satisfactory to watch above all other bia, Finland and national ex- sports? Sure, there’s grace and speed. But really, truly, with hockey, Portugal. perience. you can’t discount the violence as well.

I’m not going to defend the fighting in hockey as integral to the Poland’s foot- Been- game. But any true fan will have to admit their heart skips a bit ball scandal h a k k e r ’ s when they see the gloves come off. I’m not a violent person; I don’t like to watch boxing. So why do I like it when two hockey Photo / Álvaro Isidoro www.flickr.com/photos/95118645@N00 players go head to head? Dodgy results search for a creative midfield- Poland’s focus on getting pre- er resulted in Brazilian-born It’s personal responsibility. You don’t wait for the referee to blow pared for their maiden match Another reason for the press Roger from Legia, who (against the whistle; someone messes with one of your teammates, on the at EURO 2008 went off track conference was to prevent a Poland’s procedures) received next pass you give that extra nudge, a slight hit, let him know it when it became apparent a lot further drop of morale, after Polish citizenship on April didn’t go unnoticed. It’s retribution. Even a legal hit can draw some blood, and avenging fists need to fly, taking down a bully. of the country’s football offi- having suffered a humiliating 17th, having been in Poland cials were involved in the larg- 3-0 defeat in a friendly match only three years, rather than In the midst of Stanley Cup play-offs and finding that out about est football scandal the country against the USA in late March. the minimum required five. myself, that I value those things, I am indeed amused. Still this has seen since the downfall of And things have not got any The Brazilian, now controver- November, don’t think I’m voting Libertarian. communism in 1989. Match fix- better since: Poland’s first real sially turned Polish, is part of ing took place amongst club preparation game for the Euro the 25 men large preliminary the group stages, having won that teams with difficult or no presidents, referees, officials 2008 was on Friday May 23rd squad. Every team is allowed to only one out of three games per preparation often perform well of the football governing body against the very modest FC bring 20 field players and three tournament. on the main Euro event: ill pre- of Poland (PZPN), which was ap- Schaffhausen from the Swiss goalkeepers to Euro 2008. pared Netherlands (1988), Den- parently aware of the situation 2nd league. Jacek Krzynowek Also from a statistical point of mark (1992) and Greece (2004) without taking action against it, saved the day by scoring the Solid on paper, weak in prac- view, the odds are against the even took the trophy home. and about 30 teams. only goal, but it must have wor- tise Poles. Germany is one of the top So maybe the rocky road that ried Beenhakker to see Poland favourites and Austria is one of Beenhakker and his Polish men Beenhakker speaks out struggle against such a small Despite all controversy, Poland the hosting countries. Poland are on is the right way to suc- team, while more serious oppo- will still be able to present an has never won a match against cess after all. Although the scandal is not di- sition awaits. impressive force on the pitch, the Germans, or an organising rectly linked to the players in in particular the highly regard- country of a big tournament for The UEFA Euro 2008™ football the national squad, Poland’s In particular the last prepara- ed Celtic goalie and that matter. Slight hope can be European Championships will head coach tion game against Denmark (on the talented , who drawn from good and unbeat- be held from June 7 – June 29 immediately organised a press June 1st) will be a good measure got his first chance in profes- en records against Croatia and 2008 in eight cities across Swit- conference on April 16th to ex- to see where Poland stands: to- sional football under Leo Been- Austria over the past years. zerland and Austria. Poland press his deep concern about gether with Germany, Denmark hakker while both were active will play June 8 (vs. Germany), the situation and the possible historically is Poland’s tough- for Dutch club , back Leo Beenhakker has said to aim June 12 (vs. Croatia) and June impact it could have on his team est opponent, suffering their in 2000. for the quarter finals: very am- 16 (vs. Austria). The final will be while preparing for the Euro biggest defeat ever (8-0, back bitious for a national team that played in Vienna on June 29th. 2008 tournament, and to his in 1948) and in modern history However, the question remains hasn’t played any matches in All matches can be viewed in Po- own position as head coach of (5-1, in 2004) against this side. how Poland will perform. Po- advanced rounds on major tour- land via Polsat and Polsat Sport. Poland. Beenhakker displayed land has never before qualified naments since 1986. But these For more information about the a sophisticated hint of solidar- Selection for the Euro main tournament, are all statistics from Poland’s participating teams, the players ity with PZPN president Michal and during the last two editions World Cup history. When it and the rosters, please visit the Listkiewicz, who announced his Maybe of a lesser impact than of the World Cup for which they comes to Euro, Poland still has tournament’s official website: resignation as a consequence Spanish head coach Aragones did qualify, they never passed a blank sheet. Experience shows www.euro2008..com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 13 Business

The Costs of Euro 2008 Personalise Your Fund

the coming month is anyone’s John Beauchamp guess. Many have mixed views Mada Matyjaszek on the fact that the rights have been bought up by a private hat with Europe’s big- es, and, checking prices, rooms station, Polsat, which alleg- nvestment fund groups have (II pillar), amounting to 7.3 gest football spectacle go for around eighty Euro a edly paid 10 million Euros for had a long history in Po- percent of the gross salary. By Waround the corner, a night. Then there’s the getting the rights to show Euro 2008 Iland. The first exchange in these means, each employee few words wouldn’t go amiss there. It’s all planes, trains, and matches. They did a cheeky Poland, the Warsaw Mercantile automatically possesses shares on Euro 2008, being held in automobiles, and even though number by releasing an advert Exchange, was established in in pension funds. Private sub- Austria and Switzerland - both flying is an option, it is by far on television that proclaimed 1817. Before the 2nd World War jects operate the Open Pension outstanding football nations, the most expensive, with trains triumphantly that matches seven stock exchanges were in Funds, and participation in OPF I’m sure you’ll agree. For many, and cars getting you there at would only be shown on their operation - in 1939 the institu- is obligatory. The third pillar Euro 2008 is an opportunity to a fraction of the price. There digital satellite platform (in or- tions were closed, and would represents voluntary insurance see some excellent football, as are two trains a day from Kra- der to try and lessen the dent remain that way for decades. in private institutions. well as take in the sights and kow to Vienna, from where you of the cost from decoder sales), sounds of some beautiful cities can get a direct connection to even though in reality all match- A new Polish law, titled “The Act Over 3.5 million Poles have al- of the host countries. Klagenfurt, and the drive from es will be shown on the regular on Public Trading in Securities ready invested their savings Krakow to Klagenfurt shouldn’t terrestrial channel, it now turns and Trust Funds,” enabled the in investment funds, but the All this comes at a price though. take you longer than eight or out. But how the national pub- reconstruction of investment majority of them are still new- For many Poles lucky enough to nine hours. lic broadcaster didn’t manage funds in 1991. The Warsaw comers, and have never experi- get tickets to the matches to to get the rights to such an im- Stock Exchange was founded enced a whole economic cycle be held during the European With prices being what they are, portant sporting fixture is rath- on the 12th of April, 1991, just of the stock exchange. There- championships, there are still it is also worth noting that for er depressing, considering it is after the adoption of the capi- fore, they lack the experience a number of costs that have to players of the national teams, also the first time that Poland is tal market legal framework by in reacting to a long-lasting and be dealt with. A business daily, the championship can be a nice actually taking part in the UEFA the Polish Parliament. In 1992 fairly deep drop of shares’ pric- Gazeta Prawna, recently ran little earner, especially if you tournament. the Warsaw Stock Exchange ex- es at this point, after the eu- an article on the expenses that have golden boots. Even though perienced a major high which phoric bull market in 2006 and Poles would have to reckon with figures are hard to find on the Evidently the cost of Euro 2008 provoked the establishment of 2007. In the following situation if they went to the first three estimated earnings of national is absolutely huge. Looking the first investment fund joint- the new investors can only rely matches during the competition teams during Euro 2008, one ahead to Euro 2012 in Poland stock company, which started on theoretical knowledge, on in Austria (the Polish national can but imagine the millions of and the Ukraine, the cost can managing the first trust fund good sense or on experienced team is not playing any of its Euro involved. only be greater, as the amount and selling its units. In 1997 investors. group matches in Switzerland). to be spent on infrastructure five funds were managed by So, how much you ask? Well, Yet of course most of us won’t is going to be colossal. Huge. three joint-stock companies. Experts suggest that before the sum given is five thousand be able to go to see the bialo- Wondrous. Magnificent? Per- you start to build your port- zlotys (over two thousand US czerwoni, the white-and-reds, haps… For now it’s time to wave The increasing popularity of folio of investment funds you dollars), certainly not a number play in the championship. But those omnipresent Polska flags, investment funds among the should first define yourself as to be sniffed at, for an eight-day judging by the amount of cafes free when you buy six cans of Polish population was not ac- an investor and realize the ex- stay. Much of that sum admit- and bars in Krakow that will be Tyskie at your local off-licence. companied by a rise of knowl- tent to which your funds are tedly goes on accommodation showing the match, how much edge in this field. And yet ironi- personalised. Subsequently, it when in Austria for the match- is going to be spent on beer in cally, Polish society is faced will be time for a further level with the process of investing of initiation – a more technical in funds on a daily basis, as a approach, consisting of manag- new social security reform (re- ing and limiting risk as well as tirement pension) is based on studying market trends. Such these funds. Money from each expertise can only come with individual’s obligatory con- proper advice and instruction, tribution, amounting to 12.22 something unavailable (for percent of an individual’s gross now) for the average new Polish salary, goes to the Social Insur- investor. ance Institution (ZUS) (I pillar) and to the Open Pension Funds

RECRUITMENT AND CONSULTING AGENCY

We at GBS know that looking for a good employment of personnel form a diverse set of employee is just as difficult as searching for a business sectors. good employer. When the recruitment process GBS has a wide client base, catering for high extends over national boundaries and borders, profile transnational corporations as well as finding the perfect candidate is a real challenge. smaller commercial organizations. GBS is a Polish Recruitment and Consulting Agency. We offer high quality services to pro- Our approachable business style makes GBS a vide the best outcomes in the recruitment and client friendly company. We look forward to hearing from you! A selection of our clients include: • HCL (IT) • CB&I (Gas & Petrochemical) • BMS (Construction) • Accounting Plaza (Finance) • State Street (Finance) • Doosan Babcock (Energy) GBS Recruitment Agency ul. Basztowa 23/1 e-mail: [email protected] 31-156 Krakow, Poland tel.: 012 428 50 69 www.gbsrecruitment.com 14 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com Technology

changes. In a behind the scenes iT’s Coming! note, France Telecom is one of the largest foreign stockhold- ers in the TP SA Group, so it was unlikely that the tender would Thymn Chase have gone to any of the other Polish mobile providers. Sorry f you happen to be one of of course). The iPhone will be Play. Spirit AeroSystems (Europe) Limited the 16,000 Polish mobile us- ushered onto the Polish Iers who are lucky enough to market by none On May 16th Wojciech Jablc- Manufacturing Engineer- Mielec Poland have an iPhone in your posses- other than zynski, spokesman for TP SA, sion, you can stop reading… TP SA spoke out about the agree- Must have a very high degree of proficiency in written and verbal ment but revealed very lit- communication in both Polish and English so as to support technical For everyone else you can start tle about the lucrative deal. translation between Spirit AeroSystems and their In-Country supplier. dancing in the streets because When asked about which on May 7th French Telecom- iPhone models would be Needs to demonstrate at least two years experience in a detail owned Orange inked a deal offered and how much fabrication and machining environment, ideally including an awareness of with Apple to bring the iPhone they would cost, he implementing/embodying engineering changes. to Orange users in Austria, Bel- simply replied that gium, the Dominican Republic, he couldn’t reveal An ability to work in and travel between, both the UK and Poland is Egypt, Jordan, Poland, Portugal, any such details. essential as well as other international travel as required. The candidate Romania, Slovakia and Swit- Group, Instead he re- must be able to develop and maintain close working relationships with a zerland. This announcement which is joiced with the range of Internal and External Stakeholders. comes after months of fierce O r a n g e ’ s rest of the in- competition and infighting be- p a r e n t c r e a s i n g l y Experience within the commercial aerospace industry is desirable, along tween Poland’s telecom opera- company in tech-savvy with an appreciation of the complexity of supply chain challenges. tors concerning the rights to in- Poland. TP nation, ex- troduce the iPhone to the Polish is the abbre- c l a i m i n g market. viation for Te- that they were pirit AeroSystems is the worlds leading supplier of commercial lokomunikacja very happy to have Saerostructures and Systems. It’s European Division, based in This is indeed exciting news Polska, the larg- signed the deal. Or- Prestwick Scotland, produces components &structures for Boeing, for hundreds of thousands of est telecom com- ange hopes to have Airbus and Hawker Beechcraft. mobile users across Poland pany in Central Courtesy of Apple the phones on the who have been eagerly await- Europe and which Polish market be- ing the arrival of easily one of is listed on both fore the end of the Please apply stating salary expectations to: [email protected] the most hyped gadgets of the the Warsaw and year. 21st century (outside of Japan London Stock Ex-

Blogosphere Ten Uses for a Polish Balcony island1, The Polandian alconies are a sacred dry. I heard recently that the onto their own balcony to face panic. Hardly a month goes by and little discussed government is trying to ban this you it’s often possible to shout without someone somewhere part of modern Pol- practice. They have about as directly through their open announcing that communist- ish culture. When I much chance of banning snow windows from your balcony. era balconies are structurally B in the Arctic. On the TV news Alternatively you can wait until unsound and likely to collapse at first moved to Poland my flat had a balcony and I thought report I saw there were a lot a you see them passing in the any moment. Men with overalls it was the coolest thing ever. red-faced women of a certain age street below and share you views and huge bellies come round with fiercely crossed arms: I’m with the entire neighborhood. periodically from the munici- Almost nobody in the UK has not sure what they were saying Combat by mop can sometimes pal works office and give every one; you either have a garden about the idea but it was quite be observed 30 meters off the balcony in the area a couple of or nothing. I quickly spotted high pitched and didn’t sound ground between housefraus whacks with a massive hammer, that almost everyone in Poland conciliatory. on neighboring platforms; it’s then everyone feels better for a has a balcony, which made almost heraldic. while... me feel a bit less special but 3. Underwear display area didn’t detract from the essen- 5. Staring platform To read more, visit >> tial coolness of the thing. Over Polish people pretend they’re www.polandian.wordpress.com the years I’ve slowly come to quite conservative and moral Polish people like to stare. If understand the central role of but in fact they like nothing staring were an Olympic event the balcony in Polish life. better than showing off their the Poles would walk away with skimpies to the neighbors. I gold every time… in fact they’d A leading provider of Integrated 1. Dog “exercise” area have no idea why. The practice probably stick around for a bit of Security Systems, Alarm, CCTV, of leaving underwear out on the extra staring first, but you know Access Control, Automated Gate/Door Polish people like dogs, the balcony “to dry” often leads to a what I mean. The balcony is a Systems, Control Room Fit-outs, bigger and noisier the better. phenomenon known as “fairy’s custom-built staring platform. I Data Networks, and Fire and Video Most Polish people also live in panties;” this occurs when you have a theory this is what they Transmission Systems require: tiny flats in massive residential wake up in the morning after an were invented for in the first blocks – not a good combina- unexpectedly blustery night to place. You’ll sometimes see it First Class installation engineers, with the following criteria: tion. When the incessant barking find your balcony festooned with in real estate ads: “Fifth floor Applicant will be able to demonstrate ability to work with the latest security of your 50 kilo Rottweiler gets g-strings and boxer shorts that balcony, comfortable railings for equipment CCTV, Alarm, Access Control etc. too much you can simply shoo have rained down from neighbor- leaning on, plenty of things to Educated to third level, preferable in engineering it onto the balcony. Suddenly ing balconies. It was four years stare at.” Full clean car driving license. the dog has a whole new world before I actually had to buy new Computer literate, with TCP/IP network knowledge. of exciting things to bark at, but underwear. 6. Panic and hand-wringing Neat appearance with good pleasant manner as well as good spoken/written English at least the pain is then being potential Customer driven who is committed to customer care and service Problem solver with the ability to work on own or part of a team shared by 800 other people. 4. “Discussion” arena Successful candidates will receive: Poles like a good panic and bout Competitive salary Spa Security Solutions 2. Clothes drying area A balcony is a great place for of hand-wringing as much as the 1 Months paid leave a frank and open exchange of next man and balconies provide 8 Spa Road, Ballynahinch, Company vehicle Most balconies are permanently views with the neighbors; if endless opportunities. By far the Assistance with accommodation Co. Down, N. Ireland they’re too timid to come out festooned with dripping laun- favorite is “balcony collapse” Applicants please e-mail CV to [email protected] +44 (0) 2897561065 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 15 Culture

LOWDOWN ON LOOTED ART According to official research, some 50,000 works of art in Poland were “damaged, taken abroad or lost in unknown circumstances” as a result of the Second World War. Those statistics are far from com- plete. What’s more, they only deal with collections that ex- isted within Poland’s post-1945 borders.

Krakow emerged from the war in remarkable physical shape compared to many other Polish and Central European cities, but looting was a problem from the outset of the two- pronged, Nazi-Soviet invasion. Some heirlooms were miracu- lously recovered, whilst others remain untraced until the present.

The newly found Limoges Cross has joined the Czartoryski Museum, Poland’s oldest public museum and itself no stranger to looting. 843 artefacts were pronounced missing from its collections in the wake of the war. Hans Frank, Nazi Gover- nor of the General Govern- ment zone of occupied Poland, cherry-picked several pieces from the museum’s catalogue, including Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine and Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Man. The da Vinci was recovered in 1945, but an empty frame adorns the wall where the Raphael once hung. Images courtesy of The Commission for Looted Art in Europe (CLAE)

Following the return of the cross last month, Count Zamoyski Treasure Plucked From the Trash expressed his hopes about the emergence of other pieces:

“We have long suspected that a Looted cross returns to Poland after 60 year blip significant number of the looted Nick Hodge items found their way into local homes, and this find appears A 13th century enamel cross, when she showed it to a neigh- of a precious piece from this the carriageway of the family’s to confirm our suppositions,” seized by the Nazis during the bour who prompted her to have once magnificent collection,” home. However, the Germans he said. “We very much hope war, has been returned to Po- the treasure analysed by expert he said, adding that “any action discovered the hoard in Decem- that the people of Zell am See land and is already on display at hands. that led to the recovery of fur- ber 1941 and the treasures were and the surrounding area will Krakow’s Czartoryski Museum. ther pieces would not go unre- seized and moved to the Nazi- be moved to consider whether In August 2007 the cross was warded.” controlled National Museum. they have not come across piec- The Limoges processional cross taken to the local mining mu- Following the Warsaw Uprising es of antique jewellery, glass, was discovered amidst extraor- seum at Leogang, where the The chequered journey of the in 1944, Hitler ordered the col- enamel, and similar items that dinary circumstances after wheels were set in motion for cross began in June 1939, on lection to be moved to Castle might be from this collection.”

an apartment clear-out in the a professional investigation.

Austrian town of Zell am See Before long, Salzburg police Anne Webber, co-chair of The in 2004. An elderly resident had established that the right- Mrs. Gruber caught sight of a Commission for Looted Art in of the town, moving into an ful heirs were the descendents “ Europe, which represents the old people’s home, had filled of Princess Izabela Czartoryska plastic bag containing cutlery heirs, thanked Mrs. Gruber for a skip with unwanted junk. A (1830-1899), founder of the “ and a large and beautifully orna- taking the first step to identify neighbour, Mrs. Lydia Gruber, famed pre-war museum collec- the cross. a devout Catholic, caught sight tion at Goluchow Castle. mented processional cross... of a plastic bag containing cut- “If not for her, the cross would lery and a large and beautifully In May this year, Count Adam have been destroyed and dis- ornamented processional cross Zamoyski, great-grandson of the eve of the Nazi invasion of Fischorn in Zell am See, Austria. appeared for ever,” she said. and was allowed to rescue the the Princess and . Princess Ludwika Czar- When the war ended, the castle “There are so many pieces still cross from certain destruction. the Princes Czartoryski Founda- toryska, custodian of the Golu- was looted by local people and missing from this wonderful tion in Krakow, travelled to Aus- chow collection, moved some dealers and no trace of the col- collection and we hope that Owing to lack of space, Mrs. tria to accept the cross. of the most precious artefacts lection was found by the Czar- news of this restitution will lead Gruber had to store the relic to Warsaw for safekeeping, toryski family. to others being discovered.” under her sofa until last year “I am delighted by the recovery where they were stored under 16 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Midsummer Night’s Magic CULTURE IN BRIEF

Honorary Degree for Spielberg

Walery Eliasz Radzikowski: American film director Steven Floating Wreaths on the Vistula Spielberg is set to receive an honorary doctorate from the Courtesy of The Historical Museum Jagiellonian University. The of the City of Krakow filmmaker, who spent several months in Krakow in 1991 during the filming of Schindler’s List, has been selected for “awak- ening universal admiration in cinematic craftsmanship as well as a devotion to tradition and basic human values, which are visible in his works.” The hon- oris causa was first introduced to Krakow’s university in 1816 and Mr. Spielberg will be join- ing distinguished company. Of the 300 or so recipients thus far, legends such as Maria Teresa, Krakow Post’s resident Marie Curie, Jozef Pilsudski and chronicler Angol Anonim re- Pope John Paul II are but a few of the fabled names. This year, flects on the Wianki tradition the honoris causa will also be bestowed upon Marek Edelman, the last surviving commander of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. eaders taking a Sunday bouncy kiddies and a long life to Under this pretext, wild young Vistula rather than submit to Ger- However, given that Mr. Spiel- stroll by the river on the boot (less lucky scenarios we shall things ran off into the forests. Tech- man Prince Rytygier. St. John’s Eve berg has a rather busy diary, the university has yet to publish a 22nd of June will find some return to anon). nically, the men were searching for was proclaimed the name day of date for the director to receive curious objects tangled the hallowed blossom, whilst Wanda, and during the nineteenth the honour. alongR the banks. Dozens of wreaths Looking back into the mists of his- the women were tracking down rare century, when Poland was under will bob in the water. These sodden tory, we can surmise that the Mid- herbs. However, the old expression foreign rule, the floating of wreaths A New Director for the talismans, woven from flowers and was an exciting “stracic wianek,” literally “to lose became a patriotic demonstration, Philharmonic grasses, have been cast into the wa- time for the early Slavs, who were one’s wreath,” (cherry, if you catch heightened by the symbolism of the ters for as long as the Vistula has no doubt ecstatic that winter was our pagan drift) might hint at the proud princess. The event was or- Tadeusz Strugala, a celebrated flowed. By tradition, the custom out of the way. A Saxon chronicler real nature of what was going on. ganised by public-spirited societies conductor on the international scene, has been appointed Man- takes place on St. John’s Eve, echo- wrote that May was the time “when keen to keep the Polish torch burn- aging and Artistic Director of the ing the pagan solstice. every lusty heart beginneth to blos- Of course, when it came to the ac- ing. During the interwar years, Wi- Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra. som,” but for the people over in tual throwing of the wreaths, all anki continued as a popular event, Although born and educated in Now, we don’t want to encourage this neck of the woods, it seems kinds of abominable things could go and it endured through the commu- Poland, Mr. Strugala has worked our readers to forage around in the that the Midsummer solstice was wrong. If the crown was swept away nist era, when theatrical and fire- with some 120 orchestras across the globe, winning a raft of river (it’s not as clean as it was in when things really got cooking. out of sight, the luckless lady would work displays were added. Martial awards along the way. During Prince Krak’s time, and there may know that wedding bells would not Law brought things to an abrupt his travels he managed to as- be mutant river monsters), but let’s When St. John’s Eve fell in Old Po- be ringing in the near future. But halt in 1981, but Wianki returned semble an extraordinary col- imagine for a moment that Krakow land, the folk lit fires across the that was a relatively minor setback with a vengeance in 1992. lection of conductor’s batons, Post’s correspondent is a strapping, land. This was done mainly by wa- compared to some of the other ill including nineteenth century Sir Lancelot sort of a man - a mus- ter’s edge, be it lakes, streams or omens. If your wreath sank im- Some may scoff at the raucous rev- relics from England, Germany and France. The new director cular hero who would slay ten drag- rivers. Men and women danced with mediately without a trace, it was elry of today’s show, which involves will kick off the autumn sea- ons before breakfast, and another flaming torches, leaping over the time to throw yourself into the tor- heinous drinking and general de- son in Krakow with a tribute to ten afterwards. Well, if this brave fires and generally having a jolly rents - you might as well, as plague bauchery. But in many ways, the composer Krzysztof Penderecki, fellow were to stoop down and pick time. It was a day when magic was or death were on the cards either wildness seems very much in keep- whose 75th birthday falls in No- up one of those wreaths, joyous tid- in the air, not least as the miracu- way. ing with the original rite. All the vember this year. Amongst other ings would be on their way to the lous fern flower was in blossom. same, parents still hope that their projects, the conductor is busy hatching grand plans for 2010, young maiden who cast the crown. Folk wisdom held that only those In Krakow, wreaths were also thrown daughters will save their “wianek” which sees the 200th anniver- A happy marriage would be on the blessed with good fortune would be in honour of Wanda, the beautiful for Sir Lancelot types, and not throw sary of Chopin’s birth. horizon, not forgetting a crop of able to discover the fabled flower. princess who threw herself into the it away on any old tipsy Tomek.

GOLDEN OLDIE Night Train (Pociag) directed by Jerzy Kawalerowicz (1959)

If only the characters themselves could hear the soothing jazz that floats through this film then maybe their hearts wouldn’t be so dark, and the train would lead them to each other, rather than let them withdraw into themselves. A dewy-eyed woman (Lucyna Winnicka) eagerly running away from Poland’s James Dean - Cybulski - is forced to share a sleeping-wagon with one of the chain-smoking, world-weary characters (Leon Niemczyk - seen in Knife in Water), who we all want to slap back into reality. Trains encourage introspective journeys, so these strangers are not eager to form a bond. As the night flickers by we witness failed attempts by Cybulski to be reunited with his lover. In another mysterious scene, we witness the mass hysteria of bored passengers, who gleefully throw clods of clay at an escaping criminal. At the sea, the train is emptied, and its sunlit, deserted carriages carry us into self-reflection in a last, pathos-filled shot. Helena Dąbrowska (conductress) finally has her kind stoicism justly rewarded with a kiss. Also by Kawalerowicz - Shadow (Cien, 1956), Mother Joan of the Angels (1961), Pharaoh (Faraon, 1966), Quo Vadis? (2001) Night Train : Courtesy of The Museum of Cinematography, Lodz www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 17 Culture

PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE THEME: JUWENALIA Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull Keeping up with the Jones

It’s nineteen years since the premiere of the last Indiana Jones movie and George Lucas has just announced that he’s willing to produce yet one more if fans are forthcoming. If that’s so, he probably ought to get down to it fast, otherwise poor Indy will be forced to lasso villains from a wheelchair like a sort of gung-ho Ironside. But enough speculation, what about No. 4? Well, you don’t go to an Indiana Jones movie for intellectual fireworks. What’s needed are creepy crawlies, far-fetched car chases, exotic locations and a legend as loopy as the Loch Ness Monster commandeering a hot air balloon on a mission to Mars. This time, our hero may not be encouraged to munch a sliver of live snakes, but the film delivers on most of the aforementioned counts. Given that Spielberg has been so steadfast about keeping the plot under wraps, it seems sporting to remain reserved about details. But as has been widely reported, the setting is 1957 and the director has plenty of fun with the aesthetics of the day (Indy’s leather-clad sidekick is a direct lift of Marlon Brando’s rebel biker in the The Wild One). You’re unlikely to leave the cinema with a deeper understanding of humanity, but the film is aimed at youngsters after all - our 13-year-old critic hailed the film as “super” and awarded it nine and a half out of ten. That said, perhaps the team would be wise to quit the franchise whilst they’re still just about ahead.

Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull opened at Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34

SHELF IMPROVEMENT Cracow in the European Core by Jacek Purchla Superlative intro to the city

Twenty years ago, lavish coffee table books were a rare breed in Krakow, as indeed were snazzy coffee houses. These days, both are in abundance, and when scanning the shelves for glossy books on Poland, it’s hard to know where to begin. Still, when it comes to a straight history of Krakow in English, there’s virtually nothing on the market. Cracow in the European Core manages to deliver on both counts. The book comes brimming with first class photographs, both contemporary and archival, and the text itself has been penned by one of the city’s leading historians, Dr. Jacek Purchla. The author, who runs the International Cultural Centre on the square, has divided Krakow’s history into 15 bite-sized chapters. Unlike the gentlemen historians of the nineteenth century, he doesn’t aim to charm his readers with wry fables (although the pictures excel on that score), but his writing June’s Photo of the Month was taken by Anna Stepska is packed with vivid quotes and insights. The superb Bosz publishing house (www.flickr.com/photos/annastepska) has handled this revised edition. The result is the finest book on the market “Flying is not that hard - especially for some zebras for a general introduction to Krakow. The plates are magnificent (archive (University of Agriculture students).” images of the Nazi occupation and Nowa Huta are mind-boggling) and Dr. Purchla proves a trusty, serious-minded guide. One to put on your Christmas In July Krakow Post will publish the best “Wianki” photo. All entries welcome. Send entries to wish-list. [email protected] by June 25th. Cracow in the European Core is available at the ICC, Rynek Glowny 25 Language

Trips off the Tongue Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Let’s find out… Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons that should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. Grażyna Zawada

Why do we have two let- sounded longer and was pronounced different and /o/-like. The spelling To cheer up those who toil over Confused by Polish gram- ters (u and ó) describing one something between /u/ and /o/. doesn’t have anything to do with spelling exercises: we Poles have mar? Send your query sound - /u/? it now, yet the letter /ó/ reminds exactly the same problem, and go to editor@krakowpost. In the old scriptures dated from the us that there was once such an is- through the same toil taking dicta- Modern Polish doesn’t distinguish 10th – 13th century the sound was sue. But how do you know which tion tests at primary school. One com, and our Polish between long and short vowels, yet spelt sometimes with /Ø/. In the spelling to use? Try inflecting words piece of advice is to read a lot, then linguist may answer your in old writings there is proof that course of ages the difference slowly containing /ó/ - the letter changes your brain will remember certain question in the next “u” was spelt and read in the way disappeared, and only in very local into /o/. Example: robię (present) – rules of spelling. edition of “Trips off the it is today (rather short), and that and plain speech one can distin- rób (imperative); nóż (knife) – noże Tongue!” there was another /u/ sound that guish that in some words the /u/ is (knives). 18 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Live Review: Music Mendelssohn Music Days Anna Spysz Klezmer Classic The Krakow Post talks to Irena Urbanska, grande dame of Poland’s Klezmer scene

ne evening sixteen years Orchestra and Choir, touring Italy, ing. Longtime collaborators Roman ago, not long after Irena Germany, France and elsewhere. Slazyk and Jacek Holubowski, both Urbanska began perform- However, Klezmer always seemed a renowned jazz improvisers in their ing Jewish songs in Kaz- natural step: own right, provide virtuoso turns on imierz,O the phone rang: the double bass and accordion. “Przemysl was a typical city in the “It was an old friend of my parents, east with long-established Jewish Although now eight albums down and she said: ‘Irenka, did you know and Ukrainian communities. My par- the line, Urbanska’s eyes still light just how many Jews your father ents had many Jewish friends. Music up when she recalls her first forages Cuartero Casals saved during the war…?’ And I knew was played in the house from dawn in libraries for old Jewish songs: nothing at all about it.” “This is a The Felix Mendelssohn Music Days took place for the kind of mu- third time in Krakow this May, this year in the Centre The queen sic that is for Jewish Culture on Meiselsa Street. While highlighting of Krakow’s hard to be the works of German-Jewish composer Mendelssohn- Bartoldy (each of the eight concerts featured at least Klezmer scene l u k e w a r m one of his pieces), the festival also included works by grew up in the about. Ei- Mozart, Schubert, Brahms, Beethoven and a handful south-eastern ther you of other great composers, primarily of the Romantic city of Prze- can’t stand period. Performing the pieces were a vast array of musi- mysl. As it it, or you cians from all over the world: Germany, Poland, the US, turned out, her become en- Italy, France, Slovenia, Russia, Slovakia, Austria, Canada, father, a com- chanted. I and Spain. poser and long- belong very time organist much to the I was lucky enough to catch a performance on the final evening of the festival, where the Spanish string quartet at the Cathe- s e c o n d ! ” Cuartero Casals performed works by Haydn, Beethoven, dral, had used she enthus- and of course Mendelssohn. The quartet, in existence his connections es. since 1988, is comprised of Vera Martinez Mehner on at the Curia to violin, Abel Tomas on violin, Jonathan Brown on viola, obtain Roman K l e z m e r and Arnau Tomas on cello, and has won top prizes at Catholic birth music has several international competitions. Irena Urbanska in concert / photo Leszek Pilichowski c e r t i f i c a t e s , enjoyed an with which he created false identi- to dusk. Those were the days before extraordinary renaissance in Krakow I must admit, it had been far too long since I had last ties for Jewish children. televisions, and music was our main over the last decade. Groups such been to a chamber music concert, and hearing such skilled musicians perform these moving pieces was a form of entertainment. My nanny as Kroke (two of whom performed delight to the ears. The programme began with a flow- “There were many Jewish children Karola used to sing me the Jewish with Urbanska during the early 90s) ing rendition of Haydn’s String Quartet in D major Op. hidden in the house opposite – in song ‘Rebecca,’ but it always made and The Cracow Klezmer Band are 33 No. 6 Hob. III/42. Next, Mendelssohn’s String Quar- cellars, in attics…. One girl I re- me cry, and in the end my mother in demand at festivals across the tet No. 2 in A minor Op. 13 began as a tempestuous member very well, Marysia, she was had to stop her singing it!” globe. Irena Urbanska and her en- opposition to the calmer Haydn before it, reaching a my playmate, but I had no idea that semble are regularly invited to play climax as the musician’s bodies moved violently with she was Jewish. I found out later During those last years in Przemysl abroad, be it Canada, Germany, Is- the force of the music. In the second movement, how- from several people what my father before the war, another budding rael or elsewhere. Gratifyingly, re- ever, Mendelssohn’s vigour turned towards the creation had done. But he never spoke about musician was already perform- actions from Jewish listeners have of flowing harmonies, though those violent tenden- cies were always hiding just beneath the surface in his it, as he didn’t do it for glory or ing with one of the city’s Klezmer been resoundingly positive, in spite music. Finally, one of Mendelssohn’s major influences, money. That’s why he never made a orchestras. Leslaw Lic was a child of the singer’s initial worries about Beethoven, was presented superbly in all of his detailed fuss about the Yad Vashem Institute prodigy, and fifty years later he singing in Yiddish. nuances by the quartet as they performed the String for the Righteous.” would join forces with Urbanska to Quartet in C major Op. 59 No. 3. help bring Klezmer back to Krakow. “Jews made such a strong contri- She does not mention as much, but Not long after they began perform- bution to Polish culture – in many If the aim of the festival is to promote chamber music had the scam been revealed, her ing together, he stole Spielberg’s respects they co-created it - one in general, and to bring one of its most talented com- father - along with herself and her heart when the director was in cannot forget or discard such heri- posers to a wider audience, then it is certainly growing six siblings - could have been sum- town filming Schindler’s List. Lic tage…. It should be cultivated,” she more successful with each passing year. Canadian cellist Jeremy Findlay and his wife, pianist Elena Braslavsky, marily executed by the Germans, a briefly appears in the film, tooting affirms. are the music directors of the festival and both one- punishment that was meted out to on his beloved clarinet. time residents of Krakow. Mr. Findlay promised that several families in the region. the fourth edition of the festival, scheduled for the 8th Last month saw the release of Irena Irena Urbanska and Klezmers per- through to the 14th May 2009, will be an even bigger Urbanska began performing Jewish Urbanska’s eighth studio album, form several nights a week at Ariel, event, as it coincides with the 200th birthday of the music relatively late in her career. Jewish Wedding Songs. Her voice is ul. Szeroka 18, Kazimierz. Jewish renowned composer. I, for one, am very much looking For many years she was a soloist as disarming as ever, complement- Wedding Songs has just been re- forward to it. with the classical Krakow Radio ed by Lic’s exuberant clarinet play- leased. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 19 Extra Post

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Paul Brody (trumpet) Christian Dawid (clarinet) / photo Pawel Mazur CL2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com

byNightlife night & Dining

An hour later and a gruff male cus- look at my sweet innocent face, my todian came into the cell and barked beautiful puppy dog eyes, and de- Notes From the something unintelligible at us, mand that I be sent on my slinky which turned out to be my name, way? My ethereal charm must have and I was promptly reunited with worn off after a sleepless night in my possessions - shoelaces and the slammer however, as instead Underground all. I felt an overpowering surge of she merely read me my rights, sug- elation! Tears of joy formed in the gested I plead guilty, and – a phone corners of my eyes. Surely the end call to the magistrate later – dictated of my trauma was beckoning? But it my four figure fine to me, and a two Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, was all a cruel psychological trick… year driving ban. I was at least, and raised by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric No sooner had I pocketed my pass- at last, free to go. port than two surly brutes slapped Morillo’s mixing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their new night- a pair of handcuffs on me and led Needless to say, after that somewhat life correspondent… the smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. me into an airless cage in the back chastising experience, I stopped of another of those damn vans. This drinking for what seemed liked days, time the destination was Lubicz 21. and have since adopted the rigid be- rouble always starts with a law did the necessary paperwork, haviour of a law-abiding citizen. You quiet drink. In this instance they at least offered me a cigarette The final stage of my ordeal was in won’t see me skipping across the it started with about eight and a Pepsi. The mood lightened fact rather civil. A more senior, plain- road on a red light sir! Should my Tquiet drinks. Four of us had and in between questions we ban- clothes police officer typed things newfound civil obedience mean that settled in at Nic Nowego one Sun- tered about women, and I seized the into a computer, another fetched me I avoid incarceration during June, day evening for what was supposed chance to apologise for the behav- a glass of water when I complained then next month I sincerely hope to to be a low key affair. However, as iour of British stag groups, partly of thirst. Meanwhile an interpreter dish the dirt on nothing more naugh- guests were in town, it wasn’t long in the hope of endearing myself to arrived for the first time – a female ty than which nineteen-year-old I’ve before the inevitable introduction them, and partly because I felt it – a lovely, soft, cuddly, sympathetic been snogging recently… Until then, to the world of Polish vodkas began. was my patriotic duty. Just as I’d female! Surely she would take one drive carefully. Several hours later we said our good- established a rapport with my cus- byes and I had the good sense not todians, two new cops arrived, their to cycle home, nearly. But what with faces fixed in automaton mode. I the streets being so quiet, and the was shoved into another vehicle, journey so short, I figured I could this time for a medical on the other make it home safely before the last side of town, driven back to Szero- two mad dogs kicked in… ka to collect my passport and then taken halfway to Nowa Huta. Here However I had barely rotated my I was invited to demonstrate to the peddles full circle before the menac- Krakow constabulary the most fash- ing shape of a police van appeared ionable underpants money can buy, out of the gloom, barring my way. and made to give over all my pos- No sooner had I confessed to having sessions and remove my shoelaces, had “dwa male piwa” than the side before I was led to what I prayed door slid open and I was surrounded was solitary confinement. It wasn’t. by a group of heavily-armed men in Three shaven-headed hooligans black. A brief blow on the alkomat were already curled up under their later and I was being bundled into blankets and I resigned to make my- the van, as if for all the world I was self comfortable on the last remain- steaming through a nursery school ing wooden bench, with the help of yard at playtime in a ten tonne jug- a couple of smelly rugs. In the steely gernaut - rather than peddling at 5 light of dawn I could just make out mph through a deserted Old Town. above my head the words “jebac So began one of the least slinky policje” etched on the wall. It was nights of my life... going to be a long night.

After being escorted to my flat to Several hours of surreal soul-search- collect my passport, I was driven ing later and my criminal compan- to be breathalysed officially on ions and I were roused by a parole Karmelicka Street, and then taken to officer (yes, even parole officers are the station on Szeroka to have my cute in Poland) who dished out our details taken down. breakfast – three slices of cardboard “Reason given for stopping him?” bread, a dollop of jam and a mug of Asked cop 1. some unidentifiable, lukewarm liq- “Just say ‘riding without lights,’” an- uid. “Smacznego,” I said, in the hope swered cop 2. of cheering up my roommates, but if they appreciated the gesture they As these stalwart upholders of the didn’t let it show. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL3 FORK OUT GET SERVED

In a city renowned for its inadequate service, it’s good to see a few feisty individu- als rebelliously flying the flag for good manners, politeness and efficiency. It’sfor these precious few that our Waitress of the Month award was invented. This month’s deserved winner, Marta Gibas, serves up spaghetti with a smile at top Italian eatery Aqua e Vino. Posing her some decidedly unimaginative questions is KP’s nightlife edi- tor, Duncan Rhodes.

Q: What do you do when you’re not waiting tables? A: I’m an art student. I specialise in painting.

Q: What are your plans for the summer? A: Stay in Krakow, work and finish my diploma. I would like to go on holiday if I have Amadeus time. Q: What’s the best thing about your job? ul. Mikolajska 20 www.restauracja-amadeus.pl A: Firstly that I meet a lot of friendly and nice people, and also I am always learning something new. Some of the best restaurants in Krakow are hidden away in hotels, as is the case with the celebrated Amadeus restaurant on Mikolajska street. Descending into the 17th Q: …And the worst thing? century cellar, I was greeted by a decadent interior full of elegant upholstery, refined A: When the clients are rude. table linens, sparkling chandeliers - and the odd pillar. Naturally enough, considering the restaurant’s namesake, a musical theme has developed, with violins hanging from Q: Which dish do you recommend at Aqua e Vino? the walls, a piano tucked away in the corner and plenty of painted murals of players A: We have a fantastic Tagliata. making merry on their instruments. Needless to say, however, it is Wolfgang himself who presides over the speakers. The cuisine is a mix of international greats as well Q: What’s your favourite thing to do on a sunny day? as Polish classics, from a time long before zapiekanki were invented. If you’ve got a A: Usually I go to my mum’s home in Borzecin. bigger budget than the Krakow Post dining editor then you might want to try the res- Q: Where’s your favourite place to party in Krakow? taurant’s piece de resistance, venison stuffed with shrimp, king prawns and clams. A A: Usually we go to Goraczka because we work during the week, and there’s always a seasonal menu keeps Amadeus’ aficionados coming back for more. party there. Duncan Rhodes Q: What are you doing later tonight? DROP IN A: I’m meeting my boyfriend. He’s studying medicine.

Baroque ul. Jana 16

I was all set to hate Baroque. Not another dismal attempt to woo Krakow’s odious shopping mall generation with a few bright lights and inflated bar prices. But as I settled down on a comfy corduroy sofa and sipped an OJ, I was already taking a shine to the place. Unlike some other attempts at upmarket bars in Krakow, the owners of Baroque have actually spent more than a couple of turnips on the interior décor – and it shows. The orange and brown couches are distinctive, the subtle lighting effective and the playful baroque patterning on the walls, bar and giant red lampshades are easy on the eye. Importantly the owners of Baroque have also bothered to come up with a concept: Baroque is a vodka bar (ok, it’s not the most original concept, but still), and it serves over a hundred different flavours of the good stuff. Factor in a sur- prisingly reasonably-priced food menu, a newspaper stand, WiFi and cheerful barstaff and overall I was impressed. Are there any shortcomings? Well, Rick Astley on the speakers never does much for your street cred, and (all-too-predictably) in the corner was my all-time no.1 bar crime – Fashion TV. Arrgghhhh!

Duncan Rhodes Marta Gibas, June’s waitress of the month

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Mada Matyjaszek each year the celebrations presented differ- workshops, theatre performances, art and from Israel. he internationally renowned Jewish ent aspects of Jewish heritage, which helped photo exhibitions, presentations, lectures Culture Festival will take Krakow, the festival to grow. and speeches, and visiting tours around Kaz- Apart from music, the festival allows the along with its visitors, on a tour imierz’s synagogues. All of these events are audience to encounter genuine Jewish around the globe, exploring fasci- This year the festival will start on the led professionally by local and international culture, history and tradition – thanks to a natingT traces of the Jewish Community and 28th of June and last until the 6th of July. experts, and often accompanied by brilliant series of lectures held on every festival day the diversity of its traditions. Since 1988, For nine days Kazimierz will resound with Klezmer music played by famous artists from in the Kupa Synagogue (27 Miodowa Street). the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz has Klezmer and Hasidic music. Performers play around the world. With free admission and English translations, gathered masses of people around a magnifi- on a spacious square on Szeroka Street and everyone can take part. This edition of the cent spectacle of history, music and religion. in the old synagogues, although some of the This year the festival’s programme concen- festival will also focus on familiarising the Undoubtedly, it is a great occasion to deepen most exciting moments are experienced on trates on one leading element - the 60th an- audience with the history of Israel on the the dialogue between nations and to build a Plac Nowy, during the “off-scene” of the niversary of the proclamation of the State of occasion of the 60th anniversary of the State pathway of mutual respect and understand- festival. Artists appear, seemingly ad hoc, Israel. The majority of the festival’s concerts of Israel. ing. For the 18th time in its history the city on buildings’ roofs and play live music to will be dedicated to Israeli music, showing of Krakow becomes a significant place for a delighted crowd, dancing and cheering. its multicultural character. The organizers Krakow still has only a small registered Jews and non-Jews to find a mutual space in Furthermore, there are films, performances will present the Klezmer group Oy Divi- population of Jews, and yet, with the open- time. and exhibitions to see, and a chance for the sion, from downtown Tel Aviv, a band with a ing of the new Jewish Community Centre this audience to actively participate in various passion for Eastern European Jewish tunes; year and of course the anniversary of the Krakow’s Jewish Culture Festival is the larg- workshops. Sephardic Yasmin Levy, who combine Latino founding of Israel, there is no doubt that this est and the most important event of its kind music with Turkish influences; one of the year’s festival will be an event to remember. in the world. Originally, it was a scholarly Traditionally, there are Yiddish and Hebrew world’s leading percussionists, Zohar Fresco; conference focused on two cultures, Jewish language courses, calligraphy sessions, dance talented saxophonist Daniel Zamir; and David and Polish. Supported by charismatic figures, and Hasidic singing classes, Jewish cuisine d’Or – renowned as a leading counter-tenor friday 04.07 6:30 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 a few highlights monday 30.06 wednesday 02.07 Concert: Descarga Maghreb (France, USA) > 8:00 p.m. Plac Nowy 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert on the Roof Concert: La Diaspora Sefardi (Spain) Concert: Yasmin Levy (Israel) saturday 28.06 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 saturday 05.07 Concert: Zohar Fresco and Daniel Zamir (Israel) Concert: Klezmer and Gypsy Musicians 10:00 p.m.Kupa Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 27 6:00 p.m. Szeroka Street Concert: Rare Gems of Yiddish Song (USA) tuesday 01.07 thursday 03.07 Open-air concert: Shalom on Szeroka Street sunday 29.06 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 5:00 p.m. Kupa Synagogue, ul. Ciemna 15 sunday 06.07 Concert: Oy Division (Israel) Concert: Konsonans Retro Ensemble (Ukraine) 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 8:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Itzchak Meir Helfgot &Azi Schwartz (Israel) Erik Friedlander performs John Zorn’s music Concert: La Mar Enfortuna (USA) Concert: Leopold Kozlowski and His Friends CL6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com

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SPECIAL EVENTS V AVIATION PICNIC Argentina. Between them the movies have tions, both public and private. The huge open-air aviation museum is one scooped a hoard of international awards, when - Throughout June VIII DRAGON PARADE of Krakow’s cult destinations and a fantastic and the festival offers a rare chance to catch where - Czartoryski Museum (Arsenal), ul. In case you hadn’t noticed, a devious dragon family event is lined up for the last week- them on the big screen. Pijarska 8 used to live in the cave below the castle. end of June. Head over for a picnic with an when - 6th until 9th June Centuries ago, he went on a spree, munch- airborne twist. All kinds of attractions are in where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 PAWEL KSIAZEK - COLLECTIONS ing any mammal (including humans) he could store, from climbing walls to bouncy castles. Painter Pawel Ksiazek has won a wide fol- get his claws on. Eventually, a wily cobbler Open 9 am until 6 pm on both Saturday and 18TH FESTIVAL OF JEWISH CULTURE lowing in Poland and his work has started came up with a cunning plan. He left a Sunday. It’s hard to believe that we’re already to make waves abroad too. This show offers sheep’s carcass stuffed with sulphur outside when - 28th & 29th June welcoming No. 18. And if this is your first art aficionados the chance to savour a wide the beast’s lair - the fire-breathing fellow where - Polish Aviation Museum, Al. Jana encounter with the Jewish Festival, you’re range of his paintings. If you don’t dig his ate the bait and promptly exploded. Polish Pawla II 39 in for a treat. The Kazimierz district - hub “comic book-like poetics,” you’re sure to dig children love this story. Around 1 pm on of Jewish life in the city for many centuries the gallery’s open-air cafe - one of Krakow’s Saturday the 7th, the annual Dragon Parade FESTIVALS - will pullulate with visitors from around summertime treasures. will emerge around ul. Dominikanska before the globe. Film, music, literature and even when - Throughout June circling the Rynek. There will be fireworks 48TH KRAKOW FILM FESTIVAL cookery come together in an exhilarating where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepanski 3a by the river that evening. All afternoon on The coveted Golden Dragon is up for grabs celebration of all things Jewish. As always, Saturday and Sunday there will be open-air once more. This time round, 1,800 entries the event wraps up with a street party on ul. picnics and all kinds of bouncy-castle she- have been whittled down to a lean 57. These Szeroka (July 5th). For more details, check nanigans. Join in outside the Dragon’s Lair. include 24 documentaries, 19 shorts and 14 out the Spotlight on CL5. when - 7th June animated cuts. Talents from as far afield as when - 27th June until 6th July where - Various Locations Iran and India are all in the running. Howev- where - Various, Kazimierz District er, this year the UK seems to be leading the march with 13 films in competition. Unlucky EXHIBITIONS for some? We’ll soon see, but regardless of who scoops top prize, make this fest a must FIRST STEP... in your diary. As usual, the main base will be The National Museum has bagged a 24-carat Kino Kijow, with back-up from the charismat- collection of modern art for its summer ic Kino Pod Baranami on the Market Square. show. Works from some of the hottest names It’s a cosy affair and directors and actors in the art world will be coming to Krakow, in- usually stick around for some questions and a cluding Warhol, Clemente, Fischl and chat after each screening. La Chapelle. It’s the first time that many when - Until 5th June of these stars have exhibited in Poland, and where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34 all thanks to Rafeal Jablonka, owner of the Poster for the 8th Dragon Parade eponymous Jablonka Galerie in Cologne. The EVERYONE CAN SING COMPETITION exhibition focuses on American and European Some of Poland’s most celebrated crooners luminaries of the last 20 years, and besides Meet him at the Bunkier Sztuki gallery have won their spurs at this annual shoot-out the aforementioned four, visitors can catch (or should that be sing-out?). And at 8 pm on works by Miquel Barcelo, Sherie Levine, Mike JAN BULHAK June 11th, the finalists for 2008 will line up Kelley and Philip Taafe. Jan Bulhak (1876-1950) has been dubbed the for their last stab at the crown. The event, when - Throughout June “Father of Polish Photography.” It’s a title held at the superb Rotunda Club, should be where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 well earned. Besides founding numerous plenty of fun, and it will be presided over by societies and serving as Professor of Pho- some of the city’s top culture cats. POLISH PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE 20TH tography at University, he created a when - 11th June CENTURY where - Rotunda Club, ul. Oleandry 1 This show is the National Museum’s contribu- tion to the annual “Month of Photography” WIANKI - THE LAYING OF THE WREATHS Festival. However, as the NM has a fair few MA in TransAtlantic Relations “Wianki” is a pagan shindig that’s been given venues to play with, their show will go on For foreigners at Jagiellonian University a modern makeover. Traditionally, it takes throughout July, giving us a little more time Deadline for applications: August 15, 2008 place on St. John’s Eve. As the sun sinks to drop in. As the title suggests, the exhibi- Visit our web page: www.transatlantic.uj.edu.pl into the horizon, wreaths set with candles tion delivers an overview of Poland’s 20th Our office: Rynek Glowny 34, 2nd Floor, Room 7A will be floated down the Vistula in an echo century photography greats, with pictures Latin American Film Festival TransAtlantic Studies Office of ancient rites. That said, before you can culled from some of the country’s top collec- Institute of American Studies say , a rock band will be blasting IX LATIN AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL and Polish Diaspora out some not entirely pagan tunes from the Latin American cinema blasted into the pub- Jagiellonian University far side of the river. A handful of big acts will lic consciousness with films such as Amores Rynek Glowny 34 seize the stage, and this year, none other Perros (2000) and Y tu mama tambien 31-010 Krakow than Jamiroquai will be taking top spot. (2001). But there’s plenty more spicy stuff e-mail: [email protected] Phone: (48)124296157 For more information on the Wianki tradi- in the pan, and this nationwide festival will Fax: (48)12422 03 64 tion, check out page 16. be offering some tantalising cuts for film when - 21st June fanatics. Beginning on the 6th of June, Kino where - Vistula Embankment Pod Baranami will be screening seven choice new films from Brazil, Cuba, Mexico and www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL7

vast and vivid body of work. Bulhak’s style is CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART city to the former Royal Hunting Lodge (more FILM poetic in the best sense of the word. He was A leading contender for the crown of best palace really) of Niepolomice. From the 21st enchanted by landscape, and he travelled exhibition space in town, the ICC can be to the 24th you can catch Strauss’s Gypsy SUMMER CINEMA AT KINO KIJOW throughout Poland in search of inspiration. found bang on the Market Square. Through- Baron there. Rounding off the month there’ll Kino Kijow may boast the biggest screen in War destroyed his world, and his later years out the summer the centre will be hosting be a couple more events back in Krakow. town, but with summer getting into gear, will be explored in a follow-up exhibition a three-pronged promotion of Belgian art - The tone remains royal - two concerts of cel- they’ll have a more modest gem up their beginning in July. Well worth investigating. unveiling works by Guy Vandenbranden, ebrated arias performed in the Renaissance sleeves. Every week you can catch open-air when - Throughout June Luc Ledene and Janké - artists who are courtyard of Wawel Castle (28th & 29th). screenings of classic cuts of world cinema. where - Museum of the History of Photog- still at large today. The show, entitled “Be- when - 15th June until 11th July Staged in Kijow’s garden, the films are free, raphy, ul. Jozefitow 16 tween Constructivism and Figuration,” runs where - Various but peckish punters can order up snacks until September. from the barbecue and beers from the bar. when - Throughout June he Unsound Festival has been bringing top experimental and where - International Cultural Centre, electronic artists to Krakow for five years now, traditionally Rynek Glowny 25 in the fall. But this summer, Unsound is going tropical for a special one-night event at Pauza Club. Pauza’s trendy CRACOVIAN ART AFTER 1945 Tbasement will be transformed into a colourful scene from Rio Drop into the Krakow History Museum de Janeiro’s kaleidoscopic carnival, courtesy of artist Nathalie on the square for a blast of avant-garde Rebholz. Meanwhile, the artists performing will meld a chorus of Polish art. The show focuses on the post- tropical sounds with electronic beeps and blips. Minimal techno war era, with paintings by some of the and tech-house will be combined with Latin rhythms, and even most distinguished names in Cracovian (and live Brazilian rap, with artists Kadebostan, Dobradinha, Polish) modern art. Besides internationally Andres Garcia, DJ Laolu and Eltron John playing long acclaimed hero Tadeusz Kantor, visitors into the night.The one-off festival is curated by the Swiss label can savour works by Sobocki, Puget and Mental Groove, and organized by Unsound in cooperation with Pro Taranczewski. Helvetia. when - Throughout June where - Palac Krzysztofory, Rynek Glowny 35

TALES OF GROWING Pauza has swiftly taken its place as one of the hippest galleries on the scene. Their ever Fin-de-siecle fashion at the Hipolit House popular bar and cafe downstairs has proved a handy springboard. This June, you can catch MOSCOW FASHION DURING THE an exhibition about youth by photographer BELLE EPOQUE Bogdan Frymorgen. Parched punters can The Hipolit townhouse is one of Krakow’s round things off with a beer in the garden. oft-neglected treasures, in spite of it lying when - From 7th June just behind St. Mary’s Basilica. This nostalgic where - Galeria Pauza, ul. Florianska 18/5 show, which comes under the wings of the “Moscow Days Festival” has been organised UNCONVENTIONAL ARTISTIC CLOTHING Tropical by Tamara Trocka, guest curator from the The manorial complex of Dworek Bialo- Russian capital. Visitors can admire all sorts pradnicki makes for a delightful day-trip, of dainty turn of the century togs - think especially when summer’s in full flow. As Julie Christie in “Doctor Zhivago.” usual, the manor itself has prepared a when - Throughout June packed summer programme. One of the where - Hipolit House, Plac Mariacki 3 highlights will be this eccentric show in the newly refurbished “Kosciuszko Inn.” Cre- HENRYK STAZEWSKI (1894-1988) ated by students from the Krakow School Henryk Stazewski is a towering figure of Clothes Design, “Unconventional Artistic in Polish avant-garde art, both in his own Clothing” presents costumes from the most works and his support of other painters (he unlikely materials. Pieces made from paper organised Malevich’s first Polish exhibition and recycled materials are amongst the in Warsaw in 1927). He lived to the grand old bizarre fruits on display. Hop on a bus to get age of 94, witnessing most of the tremors to the centre.

of the twentieth century. This show unveils when - From 12th June adebostan

over 40 pieces of classic abstraction. where - Dworek Bialopradnicki, ul. Papiernicza 1 k when - Throughout June

where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873-1939 Unsound Goes Chiming in with the Jewish Culture Festival, TRACES OF MEMORY this exhibition at the Old Synagogue draws ut what about the artists? Cracovian DJ Eltron John will start What with the Jewish Festival getting back the curtain on some of Krakow’s largely off the night with a DJ set, followed by a live performance underway this month, there’s no short- forgotten Jewish artists. The Krakow History by Kadebostan. The Swiss band from Geneva have already age of one-off events to savour. Yet for a Museum has tracked down many works from released acclaimed albums on the Freude Am Tanzen and BFenou labels. Expect moody evocative club music interspersed with fascinating intro to the Jewish heritage of private collections, complementing its own the region, you’d be hard-pushed to trump selection of pre-war Jewish art. Latin American sounds. Kadebostan’s DJ Laolu will also perform a the Galicia Museum. Founded in 2004 by the when - From 28th June solo DJ set to end the night. late and great British photographer Chris where - Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24 Also based in Geneva, Dobradinha features two Brazilian female Schwarz, the museum offers a dynamic vocalists, Natascha and Paula, accompanying Andres Garcia on exploration of the Jewish legacy of Poland. OPERA, THEATRE Assault:

electronics, mixing minimal techno with Brazilian funk. Garcia, The main exhibition, “Traces of Memory,” & DANCE who also performs with Dandy Jack as one half of John Keys, will is nothing short of a masterpiece. Deserted play a solo set with material off his solo single on Connaisseur synagogues, overgrown graveyards and other Superier as well. haunting landmarks are all vividly document- 12TH OPERA KRAKOWSKA FESTIVAL

ed. The centre also hosts numerous concerts, Summer will offer a bounty for opera lovers. Art when: 14th June, 10pm lectures and other events - all in all a must Once again, the Opera Krakowska Festival where: Klub Pauza, ul. Florianska 18 on the Jewish trail. will be twirling across town. The action kicks when - Throughout June off on the 15th of June with a performance where - Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 of Verdi’s Rigoletto at the Slowacki Thea- www.unsound.pl tre. Next up, the festival is taken outside the CL8 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com

Screenings kick off daily at 9:30 pm. when - Throughout June & July where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34

FILMS OF ALEJANDRO JODOROWSKY As a follow-up to the Festival of Latin American Cinema, Kino Pod Baranami will be shining a spotlight on one of the most eccen- tric figures from that sweltering part of the world. Born in Chile to Russian Jewish émi- grés, Ajejandro Jodorowsky has been described as a shaman, a charlatan, a mad genius and much more besides. His magical visions have won cult status, and like any self-respecting genius, he tended to write, &INE4ASTE3INCE direct, score and star in his creations. So is the legend deserved? Find out for yourself at Kino Pod Baranami, where three films are lined up plus a documentary feature. when - 10th until 13th June where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27

Films of Jodorowsky: Kino Pod Baranami IN THE MOOD FOR BJORK Everyone’s favourite Icelandic pixie is taking aural punishment to anyone within hearing top bill today at the hip Kino Pod Baranami. distance of the Blonia on June 28th. The Salt The occasion is the Polish premiere of com- Mines are expecting record numbers on this puter-animated movie Anna and the Moods, day. If you have been corrupted by the dark in which Bjork takes the lead role - albeit side and simply insist on going to see the in animated form! As a special complement Canadian songstress, then you can check out to this short film, the valiant folks at Pod www.maybkrakow.pl - the event’s official Baranami have charmed Universal into allow- website - and buy tickets. If there is any ing a special screening of some other classic justice in this world a freak iceberg storm Bjork material. Some of her most fantastical will rain down from the heavens just as music videos - rarely seen on the big screen - Celine bursts into “My Heart Will Go On...” will get an airing prior to the main feature. A giving her fans their just desserts and raising must for all Bjorkists and film aficionados! the average IQ of Cracovians by around 50 when - 14th June points. where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 when - 28th June where – Blonia LIVE MUSIC CLUB MUSIC

CLASSICAL CONCERTS: WHERE2B IN JUNE THE KRAKOW PHILHARMONIC New in town? Don’t know your Prozak from The Krakow Philharmonic rounds off its sea- your Przychodnia or your Cien from your Chill son with a pair of crowd pleasers on the 13th Out? Grab a Where2b nightlife guide from and 14th of June. Bach’s Mass in B Minor around town, or simply make a note of the BMV 232 is on the cards. You can also catch following midweek shindigs to be sure you’re the orchestra in action on the 6th and 7th, in the centre of the action - Mixer@Prozak on when Messaien, Ravel and Debussy Mondays, Today@Ministerstwo on Tuesdays, are pencilled in. Sadly, the great composers Black Cherry@Frantic on Wednesdays, Sex can’t make it in person, but guest American on Wax@Cien on Thursdays. See you at the pianist Eugene Indjic will be tinkling the Mardi Gras! ivories alongside the Cravovian ensemble. when - Throughout June when – Throughout June where - Various Clubs where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 QUSHI BIRTHDAY PARTY GUSGUS A mash-up of the first order is in the making Cool kids of Krakow will be delighted by the at Qushi Club on the 20th of June, with turn- news that Earth, Biggi Veira and Presi- tablist extraordinaire J-Bounce, joined by dent Bongo - aka GusGus - are heading fellow wizards of sound Mental Cut and our way in June. These Icelandic eccentrics the Fluowankaz. The latter are celebrat- have enjoyed a huge surge in popularity in ing their 1st birthday, as is the club itself, so recent years, although they’ve in fact been it should be a big one. around since 1995. Their music is a bizarre when - 20th June and uplifting mix of electro, house, pop and where - Qushi Club, ul. Szczepanska 3 trip-hop, with plenty of drama thrown into their live shows. Essential for anyone inter- ested in the alternative dance scene. when - 6th June where - Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4 2YNEK'ÐWNY  +RAKÐW CELINE DION IN CONCERT Not since the Nazis and their Panzer tanks TEL  WWWHAWELKAPL arrived in 1939 have the citizens of Poland trembled with such fear and horror – Celine Dion is coming to Krakow! The renowned torturer will be arriving with her deadly instruments (viz. a microphone and some very large speakers) to dish out excruciating Jamiroquai plays the “Wianki Festival”