3/2015 Summer INSTRUCTIONS

Please read the following the should be placed at Materials Press the garment’s seams as you go general instructions before regular intervals (6…9 cm) between Fabric requirements are based on a along and give the garment a fina starting your project. these points. fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre- press when it is completed. How to choose the correct For reasons of clarity, some of the shrink the fabric before cutting either Practical tips size markings (e.g. positions of by washing or by steaming it thor- tapes and ) have only oughly. If you choose a different fabric Gathering: Adjust your ma- Children’s pattern sizes are primar- been printed on the smallest-size from the one suggested in the maga- chine as follows: Decrease the up- ily chosen according to the child’s pattern of the design. Copy these zine, allow for matching up fabric pat- per tension and increase the height, and the pattern measurements in the corresponding places on the tern and for cutting with nap when length (stitch length 4...5). Sew are then adjusted to correspond to pattern size of your choice, measuring calculating the fabric requirement. two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm the child’s other body measurements. the distance of each marking from apart from each other on the right Take the measurements on top of thin the edge of the pattern piece. Large Choose the on the basis side of the edge to be gathered, plac- underwear and compare them with pattern pieces have been printed of the fashion fabric’s color, quality, ing one row on the seamline and the size chart. You will find detailed on the pattern sheet in two parts. weight and care instructions. the other within the allow- instructions for taking measurements Combine parts A and B before cutting Since the quality and stretch of elas- ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath- on the next page. out the garment pieces. tics vary, check the lengths be- er the fabric by pulling simultaneously fore sewing. on both threads and spread- How to find the pattern pieces Cutting ing the gathers between your fingers on the pattern sheet If a is not available in a desired evenly over the required length. The Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou- length, buy a longer zipper and short- An overview of numbered, small-scale ble layer of fabric, observing the gathered edge is stitched in place be- en it as shown in the illustration on tween the gathering stitches using a pattern pieces and a list of pattern markings for grainlines and foldlines. pattern sheet D. pieces can be found next to the sew- Draw the seam allowances on the regular . ing instructions for each design. The fabric with ’s chalk. Sewing Easing: Rows of -stitching are appropriate pattern sheet is also stat- If you only need to a piece out Read through the instructions before sewn as gathering stitches but the ed. On the bottom edge of the pat- bobbin threads are pulled just enough tern sheet, find the number with the once, observe the pattern markings you start sewing. If you wish, baste and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col- and try the garment on before sew- to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. correct color for the desired pattern at set-in caps). piece and move your finger upward lar) or from a single layer of fabric ing. To make sewing easier, the instruc- on the sheet until you locate the (e.g. ). tions have been written on the basis Garments lined with knit same number. of techniques used in the in- The measurements for garment dustry. The terms “inner”/”outer” and When the fabric is a knit and Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in- pieces listed under the heading “Cut “left”/”right” refer to the garment the fashion fabric a woven, cut the cluding all the necessary markings also” (e.g. belt loops, belts) already when worn. lining out with considerably narrow- (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place- include seam allowances. When er seam allowances to keep the lining ments). The markings are also visible cutting out the garment, include Finish the construction seams of the from showing under the fashion fabric. on the small-scale patterns next to allowances for fitting adjustments garment after you have sewn them, the instructions. Make all adjustments if necessary. Each design includes even if the instructions do not spe- to the pattern before cutting out the specific and detailed cutting cifical y mention seam finish You can garment pieces. instructions. either use a serger or a machine zig- © Garment sections to be interfaced zag stitch for finishing the seams. On The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and arti- Patterns knit fabrics, stitch the seams using cles in this magazine are protected under internation- are shaded in grey in the overview a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. al copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commer- The patterns include allowances, of small-scale pattern pieces. Knit cial use of the material and manufacture under license and woven are cut on the No separate seam finish is necessary. is only possible under a written agreement with the extensions and placket facings. Seams inside a lined garment do not copyright holder. For further information, contact us When cutting out the garment pieces, , while non-woven interfacings necessarily have to be finished in writing at the following address: Studio Tuumat Oy, add seam allowances of approx. 1 cm may be cut in any direction as they do Rantavitikantie 33, FI-96300 Rovaniemi, Finland. (depending on the fabric) to each not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are On (e.g. at the garment’s bot- Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, generally cut adding the same amount tom edge or sleeve edges) the seam Rovaniemi, Finland OTTOBRE design® edge of the pattern. or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compen- of (approx. 1 cm) as allowance is turned under and the sate for possible financial losses resulting from mis- The position of the first or top but- on pieces cut from fashion fabric. hem is stitched close to the turned- prints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in ton/ has been marked on However, a smaller seam allowance under edge. The width of the hem the instructions. the pattern. On blouses and the may be used on interfacings for and seam allowance is given in brack- Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, top buttonhole on the front is approx. heavy-weight fabrics. ets; for example “stitch hem (2 cm + Rovaniemi, Finland 4 cm below the neck seamline and 1 cm)” means that the hem allowance the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 is 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm. cm above the . The rest of

24 MEASURING SIZE CHARTS THE CHILD

For taking the measurements, you’ll BABIES 50-92 cm need a and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 this purpose of a strip of fold- ed in four (finished width 1.5 cm). 1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe- 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ty . 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 free at the sides. 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37 The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light- weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi- TODDLERS 92-122 cm GIRLS AND BOYS tion of the tape measure behind the child. Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 Height of the child: With the child standing up with the 1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 distance measured from the floor to 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5 the marking. Chest measurement: 5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 Horizontal measurement round the 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: GIRLS 128-170 cm Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 Distance from the waist to the floor 1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72 Inseam length: 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91 Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet. 5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5 Shoulder width: 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5 Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2 Sleeve length: Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent. BOYS 128-170 cm Back waist length: Distance from the most prominent Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape. 1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 The measurements in the chart 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43 are taken on the body. The patterns include the 5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5 necessary allowances for 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104 ease of movement. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5

You can find these charts with measurements in inches on our website. 25 1. Tweet-tweet top 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 50-51

3 4 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 front 1 - 35-35-40-40-40-45-45 cm 2 back 1 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 1 2 3 frill for front 1 stretch/recovery 30% 4 frill for back neckline 1 - 45 cm clear elastic tape (Framilon®), width 5 mm PATTERN SHEET A red

CUTTING are finished with continuous after Joining: Pin front and back right sides midpoints with center-front and center- Cut garment pieces from single jersey as stitching side seams) together and stitch side seams. Fold up, back marks and stretching them as you indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing - binding strips for front and back neck- press and stitch bottom hem. Finish arm- sew to frills evenly. Pin frills to center-front and center-back edges of lines, measuring length of respective neck- hole edges with binding, leaving 3 cm tails edges of front and back neckline, placing pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding line edge + 36 cm extra length for tie at both ends of binding. tails of bind- both frill and garment right side up and 8 mm seam allowances to side-seam and strings ing diagonally to match edges of neckline. aligning ends of frills with tips of diagonally- bottom-hem edges. Neckline: Finish bottom edges of frills cut ends of armhole bindings. Machine- SEWING baste frills in place close to edge. Cut 3 cm wide binding strips for finishing with serger rolled hem or with narrow, neckline and armholes as follows (measure Construction techniques: Stitch seams short zigzag. Cut pieces of clear elastic Finish front and back with bind- required lengths on pattern along edges with serger or with overedge stretch tape for gathering frills: measure required ing, leaving 15 cm tails at both ends of to be finished): stitch on regular . Stitch lengths of tape along necklines of front each binding for tie strings. Trim tails of - two binding strips for armholes, each bottom hem with coverstitch or with and back panels and add 6 cm to each binding to equal length and stitch narrow measuring combined length of front and twin needle on regular sewing machine. length. Mark midpoints on pieces of clear hems at their ends. back armhole edges + 6 cm (armholes See general instructions for finishing edges elastic tape. Machine-baste tapes to wrong with binding on p. 48. side of top edges of frills, aligning their

2. Chirp bloomers 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 50-51

5 6 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 40-40-40-40-45-45-45 cm lightweight gingham-check cotton 5 pants front 1 fabric (CO) 6 pants back 1 - 35…40 cm rick-rack trim, 7 leg 2 width 7 mm - 95…110 cm elastic, 7 PATTERN SHEET A red width 15 mm

CUTTING allowances). Machine-baste trims to right its ends together to form circle. Mark side edges of each leg cuff together to Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- side of side seam allowances on pants both elastic and waist edge into quarters. form circles. Fold and press cuffs in half cated on list of pattern pieces, placing front, centering them with side seamlines Lay elastic to wrong side of waist casing wrong sides together. Unfold cuffs. Lay center-front and center-back edges of and placing stitching in the middle of trim allowance, aligning its top edge with elastic to wrong side of cuff, aligning its pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding (only one edge of rick-rack trim will be pressed foldline and matching quarter edge with pressed foldline, and machine- 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. visible on finished garment). Pin pants marks, and machine-baste top edge of baste edge of elastic to cuff, stretching Note that pants front is cut on the bias. front and back right sides together and elastic to casing allowance, stretching elastic as you sew. Fold cuff wrong sides stitch side seams along rows of machine- elastic as you sew. Fold casing allowance together (elastic is enclosed within cuff) SEWING basting. Turn pants right side out, fold side with elastic to wrong side and stitch and machine-baste open edges of cuff seam allowances toward pants front and bottom edge of casing allowance to gar- together close to elastic. Pin and stitch Construction techniques: Stitch seams side seams close to seamline. ment close to elastic. cuffs to leg openings right sides together, with straight stitch and finish them with aligning seam on cuff with crotch seam. serger or . Stitch crotch seam. Finish raw waist edge. Leg openings: Cut two equal-length Fold and press casing at waist as marked pieces of elastic for leg openings and Joining: Cut pieces of rick-rack trim for on pattern. Measure and cut piece of check that their length is the right fit side seam edges on pants front (measure elastic to fit the child’s waist (child’s waist around the child’s legs. Stitch ends of each required length on pattern and add seam measurement minus 3...4 cm) and stitch elastic together to form circles. Stitch

3. Owl and Foxes romper 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 52-53

MATERIALS - 60-60-65-70-75-80-85 cm printed - piece of interfacing, CUTTING seam allowances to all edges except neck- and 15…20 cm solid-color cotton Vlieseline® H 180 Cut front and back from printed single line and bottom edges of . single jersey (CO/EL), - 7 (sizes 56-68 cm) or jersey, sleeves, crotch and knee Note! Lay pattern pieces for front and stretch/recovery 30% 9 (sizes 74-92 cm) colored patches from solid-color single jersey and back on right side of fabric for cutting. - 15 cm ribbing (CO/EL), plastic snap , ø 12 mm, bottom-leg cuffs form ribbing as indicated Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- Prym Color Snaps on list of pattern pieces, adding 8 mm bing for finishing neckline, bottom edges width 90 cm of sleeves and leg inseam edges. SEWING tion along armhole edges. Stitch sleeves Construction techniques: Stitch seams to armholes right sides together. Stitch 3 6 with serger or with overedge stretch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch Fold underarm seam allowances to one coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch side and stitch them flat across sleeve- or use suitable decorative stitch on regular edge bindings. sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Bottom edges of legs: Stitch bottom- See general instructions for finishing edges leg cuffs to bottom edges of legs as fol- 1 2 with binding on p. 48. lows: Pin and stitch one edge of cuff to 4 Preparation: Fuse interfacing to shoul- bottom edge of leg right sides together. der placket facings on front and back pan- Press seam open, fold cuff in half wrong els (see areas shaded in grey on small- sides together and pin its free edge to scale patterns). Pin and baste knee patches bottom-leg seam. Stitch cuff in place from 5 to front panel as marked on pattern and right side of leg with coverstitch, placing stitch them in place with coverstitch. Turn stitching in the middle of seamline. shoulder placket facings to wrong side as Stitch crotch gussets to front and back marked on pattern and press. Stitch plack- panels. Finish leg inseam edges with bind- et facings in place close to edge with cov- ing. Wrap ends of binding to wrong side PATTERN PIECES cut erstitch. Finish bottom edges of sleeves and stitch them to bottom edges of legs with binding. 5 mm away from edge. Trim excess binding 1 front 1 Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish off close to stitching. 2 back 1 neckline with binding. Wrap ends of bind- Finishing: Attach two snap fasteners on 3 sleeve 2 ing to wrong side and stitch them to left shoulder. Attach the rest of snap fas- 4 crotch 2 neckline 5 mm away from placket edges. teners to leg inseam edges, placing one 5 knee patch 2 Trim excess binding off close to stitching. snap at center-front/center-back point of 6 bottom-leg cuff 2 Overlap placket edges on left shoulder, crotch gusset, one snap at bottom edge with placket edge on back panel on top, of each leg and the rest at regular intervals and pin and machine-baste them in posi- between these. PATTERN SHEET A blue

4. Eggs T- 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 52-53

MATERIALS 3 - 45-45-50-50-55-55-60 cm printed and 15…20 cm solid-color cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% PATTERN PIECES cut - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 7 8 width 90 cm 7 front 1 - piece of interfacing, 8 back 1 Vlieseline® H 180 3 sleeve 2 - 2 colored plastic snap fasteners, ø 12 mm, Prym Color Snaps PATTERN SHEET A blue CUTTING SEWING els (see areas shaded in grey on small- with placket edge on back panel on top, Cut front and back from printed single Construction techniques: Stitch seams scale patterns). Turn placket facings to and pin and machine-baste them in posi- jersey and sleeves from solid-color single with serger or with overedge stretch wrong side as marked on pattern and tion along armhole edges. Stitch sleeves jersey as indicated on list of pattern stitch on regular sewing machine. See press. Stitch facings in place close to edge. to armholes right sides together. Stitch pieces, adding 8 mm seam allowances to general instructions for finishing edges Finish bottom edges of sleeves with bind- sleeve underarm seams and side seams. all edges except neckline and bottom with binding on p. 48. Stitch shoulder ing. Fold underarm seam allowances to one edges of sleeves. Note! Lay pattern pieces placket facings and bottom hem with Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish side and stitch them flat across sleeve- for front and back on right side of fabric coverstitch or with twin needle on regular neckline with binding. Wrap ends of bind- edge bindings. Fold up, press and stitch for cutting. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips sewing machine. ing to wrong side and stitch them to bottom hem. from ribbing for finishing neckline and Preparation: Fuse interfacing to shoul- neckline 5 mm away from placket edges. Finishing: Attach snap fasteners on left bottom edges of sleeves. der placket facings on front and back pan- Trim excess binding off close to stitching. shoulder. Overlap placket edges on left shoulder,

5. Jolly Frog jersey shorts 56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 52-53

MATERIALS For appliqué: - 30-30-30-35-35-35-35 cm - pieces of white and black single turquoise and piece of green cotton jersey single jersey (CO/EL), - piece of double-sided fusible web, stretch/recovery 30% Vlieseline® Vliesofix - 15…20 cm ribbing (CO/EL), - piece of tear-away backing, width 90 cm Vlieseline® Stickvlies - 45…50 cm elastic, width 20 mm CUTTING wrong side of white, pupils on wrong side side of in buttonhole area. Cut pants panels from turquoise single of black and eyelids on wrong side of Stitch buttonholes as marked on pattern. jersey, seat panels from green single jersey green piece of jersey. Cut appliqué shapes Stitch ends of waistband together to form and waistband and bottom-leg cuffs from out along their outlines, remove paper circle, leaving opening for inserting elastic ribbing as indicated on list of pattern backing of fusible web and iron shapes in seam. Fold waistband in half wrong pieces, placing center-front edge of pattern to top edges of seat panels as shown in sides together and stitch row of 3-thread piece for waistband on fabric fold and design sketch. Place piece of tear-away coverstitching (or twin-needle stitching adding 8 mm seam allowances to other backing on wrong side of each pants panel on regular sewing machine) 2.5 cm away 3 edges. Cut also 3 cm x 65…75 cm strip under appliqué shapes. Stitch appliqué from top edge of waistband to form elastic from green single jersey for drawstring. shapes in place close to edge with narrow, casing. Stitch waistband to pants waist in short zigzag, using matching sewing thread the same way as bottom-leg cuffs to SEWING for each shape. Remove tear-away backing. bottom edges of legs, aligning seam on Stitch and topstitch center-back seam. waistband with pants center-back seam. 2 Construction techniques: Stitch seams Embroider frog’s mouth with straight Fold drawstring strip in three and stitch 1 that join seat panels to pants panels as stitch, observing pattern markings. well as leg inseams with serger or with in the middle of strip with 3-thread cov- overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing Joining: Stitch bottom-leg cuffs to bottom erstitch or with twin needle on regular machine. Stitch center-front and center- edges of legs as follows: Pin and stitch sewing machine, stretching strip slightly back seams with straight stretch stitch, one edge of cuff to bottom edge of leg as you sew. Thread drawstring into waist- 4 trim seam allowances, press seams open right sides together. Press seam open, band casing. Adjust length of drawstring and topstitch seams with coverstitch from fold cuff in half wrong sides together and and stitch narrow hems at its ends. pin its free edge to bottom-leg seam. right side. Stitch coverstitching with 5- Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit PATTERN PIECES cut thread coverstitch or use suitable deco- Stitch cuff in place from right side of pants the child’s waist (length = waist measure- rative stitch on regular sewing machine with 5-thread coverstitch, placing stitching ment minus 3…4 cm) and insert it into (e.g. honeycomb stitch) unless otherwise in the middle of seamline. Stitch and top- waistband casing. Stitch ends of elastic 1 pants panel 2 instructed. stitch center-front seam. Stitch leg inseams. together and close opening on casing by 2 seat panel 2 Fold inseam seam allowances to one side 3 waistband 1 Frog appliqué: Stitch seat panels to pants hand-stitching. To prevent drawstring from and stitch them flat across bottom-leg slipping out and elastic from getting twist- 4 bottom-leg cuff 2 panels. Press seam allowances toward cuffs. pants panels. Trace frog’s eyes, pupils and ed, stitch-in-the-ditch along center-back frog’s eyes, pupils eyelids on paper backing of double-sided : Cut piece of jersey for stabi- seamline through all layers across waist- and eyelids fusible web and cut them out with gen- lizing buttonholes on waistband and, using band. erous seam allowances. Iron eyes on double-sided fusible web, fuse it to wrong PATTERN SHEET A green

6. Mouse Grey dress 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 54-55

5 6

PATTERN PIECES cut 1 3 1 front 1 MATERIALS 2 front 1 - 45-50-50-55-55-60 cm lightweight 3 back yoke 2 linen (LI) or cotton (CO) fabric 4 back 2 2 4 - piece of interfacing, 5 sleeve 2 Vlieseline® H 180 6 neckline * 1 - 4…6 pearl buttons, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET A black CUTTING facings on back yokes and back panels sleeves. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Turn bottom-hem corners right side out. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale Back placket, neckline and bottom Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem cated on list of pattern pieces, placing patterns). Turn placket facings to wrong hem: Fold placket facings onto back pan- (1 cm + 1.5 cm). Pin outer edges of placket center-front edges of pattern pieces on side as marked on pattern and press. Turn els right sides together and stitch neckline facings to garment and stitch them in fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- seam allowances at outer edges of placket and bottom-hem edges of facings to gar- place close to edge. ances to other edges. *Pattern piece for facings to wrong side and press. ment. Pin and stitch one edge of neckline Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch sleeve- neckline facing includes seam allowances. Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top facing to neckline right sides together, edge hems (1 cm + 1.5 cm). Stitch but- Cut neckline facing on the bias. edges of front and back panels as marked with ends of facing slightly overlapping tonholes and sew buttons on back placket, on pattern and gather edges to fit yokes. back placket facings. Trim neckline seam placing the two top buttonholes and but- SEWING Pin and stitch yokes to front and back allowances to 6 mm and clip them along tons on back yokes, lowest buttonhole Construction techniques: Stitch seams panels, fold seam allowances toward yokes curves. Turn neckline corners right side and 10…12 cm above hemline with straight stitch and finish them with and topstitch seams. Stitch shoulder out, turn seam allowance at free edge of and the rest at regular intervals on placket. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching seams, fold seam allowances toward back neckline facing to wrong side, pin facing close to edge or seamline. yokes and topstitch seams. Stitch side to wrong side of neckline and stitch it in seams and press seam allowances toward place close to edge (finished width of Preparation: Fuse interfacing to placket back panels. Stitch underarm seams of facing is 8 mm).

7. Fruity Flowers leggings 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 55

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 4 2 - 35-35-40-40-45-45 cm 1 pants panel 1 printed viscose single jersey 1 2 seat panel 1 (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 3 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 45…50 cm elastic, 4 waistband 1 width 25 mm 3 PATTERN SHEET A grey CUTTING with straight stitch. Press seams open and gether to form circle. Measure and cut Cut garment pieces from single jersey as topstitch them with coverstitch. Stitch piece of elastic to fit the child (length of indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing bottom-leg cuffs to bottom edges of legs elastic = child’s waist measurement minus center-front and center-back edges of as follows: Pin and stitch one edge of cuff 3…4 cm) and stitch its ends together to pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding to bottom edge of leg right sides together. form circle. Fold waistband in half wrong 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. Press seam open, fold cuff in half wrong sides together. Place elastic inside waist- sides together and pin its free edge to band and pin and machine-baste open SEWING bottom-leg seam. Stitch cuff in place from edges of waistband together. Pin and stitch right side of pants with 5-thread cover- waistband to pants waist right sides to- Construction techniques: Stitch seams stitch, placing stitching in the middle of gether. Fold waist seam allowances toward with serger or with overedge stretch seamline. Stitch leg inseams. Fold inseam pants and topstitch waist seam with cov- stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch seam allowances to one side and stitch erstitch. coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch them flat for a couple of centimeters at or use suitable decorative stitch on regular bottom edges of legs. sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Waistline: Stitch ends of waistband to- Joining: Stitch seat panel to pants panel

8. Zebra Run shirt 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 54-55

4 5 6 PATTERN PIECES cut 7 2 MATERIALS 1 front 2 2 shoulder yoke 1 - 45-45-50-50-50-55 cm zebra- 3 back 1 patterned and 15 cm contrast- 4 sleeve 2 patterned printed organic-cotton 1 3 5 2 poplin (CO) 6 pocket 1 - 10 cm interfacing, 7 button band 2 Vlieseline® H 180 - 4…5 buttons, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET A orange

CUTTING Make cardboard template with pattern and press seam allowances at outer edges Fold button bands onto front panels right Cut pocket and button bands from con- piece for pocket. Lay pocket template on of button bands to wrong side. Fold but- sides together and stitch their neckline trast-patterned fabric and other garment wrong side of pocket and pull up bobbin ton bands onto front panels right sides edges. Trim corners and turn button bands pieces from zebra-patterned fabric as threads of ease-stitching to turn pocket together and stitch their bottom-hem right side out. Pin button bands in position indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing seam allowances over edge of template edges to garment. Fold up, press and stitch on wrong side of front panels and stitch center-back edges of pattern pieces on to wrong side of pocket. Press pocket bottom hem (1 cm + 1.5 cm). them in place close to edge. Topstitch fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- edges from right side. Pin and stitch pocket Pin collar pieces right sides together and front edges of front panels. Turn seam ances to other edges. to left front panel as marked on pattern. stitch their ends and outer edges. Trim allowance at bottom edge of upper collar Joining: Pin and machine-baste on corners, press seams open and turn collar to wrong side, pin edge to neckline and SEWING back panel as marked on pattern. Pin and right side out. Press collar flat. Topstitch stitch in place close to edge. Construction techniques: Stitch seams stitch shoulder yoke to front and back outer edge and ends of collar. At points Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on left with straight stitch and finish them with panels right sides together. Fold seam 1 cm away from ends of collar, clip bottom front edge and sew buttons on right front serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching allowances toward yoke and topstitch edge of both collars to seamline. Pin bot- edge, placing top buttonhole close to close to edge or seamline. seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. tom edge of under collar to neckline right neckline and the rest at regular 6…7 cm Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side sides together, aligning ends of collar with intervals. Preparation: Fuse interfacing to button seams. Fold up, press and stitch sleeve- center-front marks on front panels, and bands and upper collar (see areas shaded edge hems (1 cm + 1.5 cm). stitch collar to neckline, stitching both in grey on small-scale patterns). Button bands and collar: Pin and stitch upper collar and under collar to neckline Pocket: Stitch hem at opening edge of button bands to garment’s front edges between clips and ends of collar but only pocket as marked on pattern. Sew row right sides together. Press seams open stitching under collar to the rest of neck- of ease-stitching along curved edge of first, then turn button bands to wrong line. Clip neckline seam allowances along pocket, stitching within seam allowance. side and finally press front edges flat. Turn curves.

9. Morocco print shorts 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 54-55

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 5 5 pants front 2 - 35-35-35-35-35-40 cm 6 6 pants back 2 printed cotton poplin (CO) 7 7 pocket 1 - 45…50 cm elastic, width 20 mm PATTERN SHEET A green CUTTING structions for design 8 and stitch it to stitching. Stitch side seams. Fold up, press allowance, aligning quarter marks with Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- right pants back as marked on pattern. and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs pants center-front, center-back and side cated on list of pattern pieces, adding Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right as marked on pattern. seams and placing top edge of elastic 10 mm seam allowances to all edges. sides together and stitch leg inseams. Waistline: Finish raw edge of waist casing along casing foldline. Turn waist casing Stitch crotch seam; note that stitching allowance. Measure and cut piece of elastic allowance to wrong side of pants and SEWING line runs along outer edges of mock to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic = stitch it to pants close to bottom edge of elastic, stretching elastic as you sew. Construction techniques: Stitch seams extensions on pants front. Fold and press child’s waist minus 4...5 cm). Stitch ends mock fly extensions onto left pants front, of elastic together to form circle and Sew another row of stitching along casing with straight stitch and finish them with through all layers, stitching in the middle serger or zigzag stitch. pin them in place and stitch along their mark elastic into quarters. Machine-baste outer edges with two parallel rows of elastic at its quarter marks to waist casing of elastic. Steam elastic to shrink it back Pocket: Construct pocket following in- to its original length.

10. Parrot linen tunic 86-92-98-104-110-116 cm Page 9

3 4

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS - 55-55-60-60-65-70 cm lightweight 1 front 1 linen fabric (LI) 2 back 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® 1 2 3 shaped facing for H 180 back neckline 2 - invisible zipper, length 20 cm 4 armhole facing* 2 - floss or pearl cotton for stitching tucks PATTERN SHEET B orange

CUTTING Front: Fold and stitch narrow hem bottom of zipper placket to bottom hem lines. Fold shaped facings in position and Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- (5 mm + 5 mm) at front neckline. Press and press seam open. press neckline. cated on list of pattern pieces, placing neckline. Mark foldlines of tucks on front Pin and stitch center-back edges of shaped Armholes: Pin and stitch armhole facing center-front edge of pattern piece for panel by basting with contrast-color facings to center-back edges of back to armhole right sides together. Trim seam front on fabric fold and adding 10 mm thread. Mark also starting and ending panels, right sides together and with zipper allowances to 6 mm and clip them along seam allowances to other edges. *Note! points for stitching lines of tucks by bast- in between, placing stitching 5 mm away curves. Understitch seam allowances to Pattern piece for armhole facing includes ing, observing pattern markings. Fold front from stitching line that attaches zipper. armhole facing close to seamline. Fold seam allowances. Cut armhole facings on panel wrong sides together along each Pin shaped facing to neckline of each back facing to wrong side of garment, turn the bias. tuck foldline and press tuck from neckline panel right sides together, fold all center- seam allowance at its free edge under to tuck ending point. Stitch tucks 5 mm back seam allowances onto shaped facing and stitch turned-under edge to armhole SEWING from fold between markings for ends of and stitch neckline seam. Trim neckline close to edge. stitching lines (note that tucks are not seam allowances slightly and clip them Construction techniques: Stitch seams stitched all the way to neckline). Side seams and bottom hem: Stitch with straight stitch and finish them with along curves Press neckline seam allow- side seams and press seam allowances serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch tucks by Joining: Finish raw center-back edges. ances toward shaped facings and under- toward back panels and then stitch them hand with short running stitches (length Open zipper. Pin one zipper half to center- stitch them to facings close to seamline. flat across armhole facings with row of of stitch 3 mm) using embroidery floss back edge right sides together, aligning Pin front and back panels right sides to- back-and-forth stitching. Fold up, press or pearl cotton. Secure thread ends care- top end of zipper teeth with neckline gether and stitch shoulder seams, aligning and stitch bottom hem as marked on fully on wrong side. seamline, and stitch it in place using invis- front neckline carefully with back neckline pattern. ible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper Preparation: Fuse interfacing to shaped seam. Fold shoulder edges of shaped fac- half to the other center-back edge in the ings onto shoulder edges of front panel facings. Finish raw outer edges of shaped same way. Stitch center-back seam from facings. and stitch shaped facings to shoulder seam-

11. Carrot linen pants 86-92-98-104-110-116 cm Page 9

CUTTING 1 2 Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- cated on list of pattern pieces, adding 10 mm seam allowances to all edges. SEWING Construction techniques: Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right MATERIALS sides together and stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams. PATTERN PIECES cut - 60-60-65-70-75-80 cm lightweight Finish waistline following instructions for linen fabric (LI) design 9. Fold up and press hems at bot- 1 pants front 2 - embroidery floss or pearl cotton tom edges of legs as marked on pattern 2 pants back 2 for stitching bottom-leg hems and stitch them by hand with short run- - 50…55 cm elastic, width 20 mm ning stitches (length of stitch 3 mm) using PATTERN SHEET green embroidery floss or pearl cotton. B 12. Bellbird dress 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 8-9 6 7 3 PATTERN PIECES cut

1 front 1 2 back 1 3 sleeve 2 MATERIALS 5 4 pocket 2 - 80-85-95-100-105-110-115 cm 5 neckline band 2 printed viscose fabric (CV) 6 front-placket binding* 1 - 20 cm interfacing, 7 sleeve-edge binding* 2 Vlieseline® G 785 4 1 2 8 pocket template - - button, ø 12 mm - 25…30 cm elastic or clear elastic 8 PATTERN SHEET B red tape (Framilon®), width 5 mm CUTTING raw bottom edge of inner neckline band. marked on pattern, stretching elastic as sides together, aligning pattern markings Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- Front placket: Slash placket opening on you sew. on neckline band with center-back and cated on list of pattern pieces, placing front panel and cut diagonally to corners Sew row of ease-stitching along curved sleeve-midpoint marks on garment, and center-front and center-back edges of at bottom of placket opening, observing edge of each pocket, stitching within seam stitch neckline seam. Press seam gently. pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding pattern markings. Fold placket binding in allowance. Cut pocket template from Pin bottom edge of inner neckline band 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. half lengthwise and press. Spread placket cardboard. Lay pocket template on wrong to neckline seam carefully; turn bottom- *Pattern pieces for front-placket binding opening open and pin one edge of binding side of pocket and pull up bobbin threads edge seam allowance under along short and sleeve-edge binding include seam to edges of placket opening, with right of ease-stitching to turn pocket seam al- portion at each end of band. Stitch edge allowances. side of binding facing wrong side of front lowances over edge of template to wrong of inner band in place from right side of panel, and stitch it to placket edges (right side of pocket. Press pocket edges from neckline, stitching on outer band close SEWING edge, bottom of placket, left edge) with right side. Pin and stitch to front to seamline. Construction techniques: Stitch seams even 7 mm seam allowance. Wrap binding panel as marked on pattern. Stitch sleeve-underarm seams and side with straight stitch and finish them with over placket edges to right side, turn Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back seams. Press seam allowances toward serger or zigzag stitch. seam allowance at its outer edge under, panels right sides together and stitch rag- back panel. Fold up, press and stitch bot- and pin and stitch turned-under edge to tom hem as marked on pattern. Sew gath- Preparation: Fuse interfacing to both lan seams. Press seam allowances toward placket edges carefully close to edge. Lay sleeves. Sew gathering stitches along gar- ering stitches at bottom edges of sleeves halves of neckline band (if your fabric is bound placket edges side by side and pin and gather edges to fit sleeve-edge bind- heavyweight, only interface outer neckline ment’s neckline and gather neckline to and stitch triangle, formed by binding at fit bottom edge of neckline band. ings. Stitch ends of each sleeve-edge bind- band). Fuse 1.5 cm x 24 cm piece of inter- bottom of placket, to right side of front ing together to form circles. Fold binding facing to wrong side of placket area on panel. Pin neckline bands right sides together in half wrong sides together and press. front panel (see area shaded in grey on and stitch their neck edges together. Trim Pockets: Stitch narrow hems at opening Pin and stitch one edge of binding to small-scale pattern). seam allowances slightly and clip them sleeve edge, with right side of binding edges of pockets. Finish raw edges of along curves. Understitch seam allowances Cut 6 cm x 2.5 cm piece from viscose pockets. Cut two equal-length pieces of facing wrong side of sleeve. Wrap binding fabric for button loop. Press piece in half to inner band close to seamline. Place over sleeve edge to right side, turn seam elastic or clear elastic tape for gathering neckline band halves right sides together lengthwise, turn seam allowances at its pockets (measure required length on pat- allowance at its free edge under, pin edge long edges in and stitch edges together. and stitch center-front edges. Trim corners, to sleeve and stitch it in place close to tern piece for pocket template and add turn neckline band right side out and Fold piece in half to form button loop seam allowances). Gather opening edge turned-under edge. Sew button at neck- and machine-baste loop to right center- press it flat. Pin garment’s neckline to bot- line. of each pocket by stitching elastic or clear tom edge of outer neckline band right front edge of outer neckline band. Finish elastic tape to wrong side of pocket as

13. Forget-me-not hat head circumference 48-50-52-54 cm Page 8

PATTERN PIECES cut

1 Exterior Lining 1 crown panel 4 4 2 brim 2 - 2 PATTERN SHEET B lilac

CUTTING brim panel and press seams open. Pin Pin crown halves together and stitch them Cut hat exterior and lining pieces from brim panels right sides together and stitch together in the same way as above. fabrics as indicated on list of pattern their outer edges together. Trim seam Construct crown lining in the same way pieces, adding 7 mm seam allowances to allowances to 4 mm and clip and notch as crown exterior, without topstitching all edges. them along curves. Turn brim right side seams. Leave small opening for turning in out and press its outer edge flat thor- center-back seam. Press lining. SEWING oughly. Topstitch outer edge of brim using Joining exterior and lining: Pin and presser-foot edge as guide. Machine-baste MATERIALS Construction techniques: Stitch seams stitch brim to bottom edge of crown open edges of brim together along seam exterior, right sides together. Place crown - 35…45 cm printed cotton fabric with straight stitch; stitch hat exterior allowances. with 7 mm seam allowances and lining exterior and lining within one another (CO) for exterior Joining crown: Stitch two crown panels right sides together, with brim in between, - 25 cm gingham-check cotton with 8 mm seam allowances. No seam finish is necessary as the hat is fully lined. together, press seam open and topstitch and stitch their bottom edges together. fabric (CO) for lining seam from right side with two parallel Turn hat right side out and close opening - 60 cm interfacing, Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to all hat rows of stitching, placing rows on each for turning. Topstitch brim attachment Vlieseline® H 180 exterior pieces. side of seamline. Stitch the other two seam close to seamline, placing stitching Brim: Stitch center-back seam of each crown panels together in the same way. on crown. 14. Passerine jersey jumpsuit 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 14-15

MATERIALS - 90-95-100-105-110-115-120 cm printed cotton single jersey SEWING two and add seam allowances. Cut back (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL) Construction techniques: Stitch seams from strip of ribbing that you pre- with serger or with overedge stretch pared. Stitch ends of strap to neckline - 125…140 cm clear elastic tape, stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch binding as marked on pattern, stitching width 5 mm, Framilon® hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with along stitching line that attaches binding. twin needle on regular sewing machine. Pockets: Stitch pocket facings to edges See general instructions for finishing edges of pocket openings on pants fronts with with binding on p. 48. serger, stretching seam allowances slightly Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic as you sew. Understitch seam allowances tape for edges of pocket openings and to pocket facings close to seamline. Fold 1 2 for shoulder seams. Measure required pocket facings to wrong side and press 3 lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add edges of pocket openings gently. Stitch seam allowances. Machine-baste tapes to pocket facings and pocket pieces right wrong side of seam allowances at edges sides together. Machine-baste side edges of pocket openings on pants fronts and of pockets to side seam allowances and to wrong side of shoulder seam allow- top edges of pockets to waist seam al- 4 5 ances on bodice back, stretching both lowances. 7 tape and edge of garment piece slightly Pants section: Fold at waist edges as you sew to make sure that seams will of pants fronts and backs as marked on be elastic enough. pattern and machine-baste them in posi- Bodice: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish tion. Pin pants fronts and backs right sides neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder together and stitch leg inseams. Stitch 6 seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to crotch seam. Stitch side seams. Fold up, one side and stitch them flat across neck- press and stitch hems at bottom edges line binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. of legs as marked on pattern. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side Joining bodice and pants: Cut piece CUTTING seams. Fold up, press and stitch hems at of clear elastic tape for waist edge of Cut garment pieces from single jersey as bottom edges of sleeves as marked on pants section. Measure required length indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing pattern. of tape on pattern pieces for bodice and PATTERN PIECES cut center-front and center-back edges of Back strap: Fold strap piece cut from add seam allowances. Mark center-front, pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding ribbing in three and stitch in the middle center-back and side-seam points on tape. 1 bodice front 1 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges of strip with 3-thread coverstitch or with Machine-baste clear elastic tape to right 2 bodice back 1 except neckline. Cut 3.5 cm wide strips twin needle on regular sewing machine, side of waist seam allowance of pants 3 sleeve 2 from ribbing for binding at neckline and stretching strip slightly as you sew to section, matching marks and stretching 4 pants front 2 for strap across back. If you use a binder make it stretchy enough. To work out both waist edge and tape slightly as you 5 pants back 2 attachment on your coverstitch machine required length of back strap, measure sew. Pin pants section to bodice right 6 pocket facing 2 to attach the binding, cut the strip in the width of neck opening, starting at pattern sides together and stitch waist seam, 7 pocket piece 2 width that fits the binder. marking for strap, on pattern piece for stretching seam allowances slightly as you bodice back, multiply measurement by sew (clear elastic tape is enclosed within seam allowances). PATTERN SHEET B black

15. Lionella jersey dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 18

1 2 8 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 1 bodice front 1 - 85-85-90-110-110-115-120 cm 2 bodice back 1 10 printed organic-cotton single 8 sleeve 2 jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ 9 skirt panel 2 recovery 30% 10 upper 2 9 - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 11 lower ruffle 2 - 240…280 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® 11 PATTERN SHEET B black CUTTING SEWING Bodice: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish as you sew to gather portions between Cut garment pieces from single jersey as Construction techniques: Stitch seams neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder pattern markings to 8 cm. Fold sleeves indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing with serger or with overedge stretch seam. Fold shoulder seam allowances to right sides together lengthwise and stitch center-front and center-back edges of stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch one side and stitch them flat across neck- underarm seams. Fold each sleeve in half pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with line binding. Stitch side seams. in its final position and pin and machine- 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges twin needle on regular sewing machine. Sleeves: Cut two 18-19-19-20-20-21- baste sleeve cap edges together. Pin and except neckline. Cut 3.5 cm wide strips See general instructions for finishing edges 21 cm pieces of clear elastic tape. Stitch stitch sleeves to armholes right sides from ribbing for binding at neckline and with binding on p. 48. clear elastic tapes to wrong side of sleeves together. for strap across back. If you use a binder Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic along pattern lines marking bottom edges Back strap: Construct back strap fol- attachment on your coverstitch machine tape for shoulder seams. Measure required of sleeves, stretching tapes as you sew to lowing instructions for design 14. to attach the binding, cut the strip in the length on pattern and add seam allow- gather sleeves evenly. Cut two 10 cm width that fits the binder. ances. Machine-baste tapes to wrong side pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering of shoulder seam allowances on bodice sleeve caps. Stitch clear elastic tapes to back. wrong side of sleeve caps, stretching tapes >>> Skirt: Pin skirt panels right sides together as follows: 2 x lengths of bottom edges match quarter marks with center-front both edges slightly as you sew to produce and stitch side seams. Pin ruffle panels of bodice front and bodice back plus seam and center-back marks and the other side an elastic seam. Note that on the finished right sides together in pairs and stitch allowances for upper ruffle, and 2 x length seam on ruffle. garment, the longer side seam of the side seams. Fold up, press and stitch hems of bottom edge of skirt panel plus seam Pin and stitch lower ruffle to bottom upper ruffle is aligned with the right side at bottom edges of both ruffles as marked allowances for lower ruffle. Mark clear edge of skirt panel right sides together. seam of the bodice. on pattern. elastic tapes into quarters. Stitch tapes Pin and machine-baste upper ruffle to Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for gath- to seam allowances at top edges of ruffles, top edge of skirt panel, both right side ering top edges of ruffles. Measure re- starting stitching at one side seam and up. Pin and stitch skirt to waist edge of quired lengths of tape on pattern pieces stretching tape evenly as you sew to bodice right sides together, stretching

16. Diamonds leggings 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 18-19

1

CUTTING Fold inseam seam allowances at bottom Cut pants panels from single jersey as edges of legs to one side and stitch them indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding flat across bottom-leg hems. Place pants 8 mm seam allowances to all edges. legs within one another right sides to- gether and stitch crotch seam; leave small SEWING opening across waist casing allowance at center back for inserting elastic. Turn MATERIALS Construction techniques: Stitch seams pants right side out. Fold, press and stitch with serger or with overedge stretch casing at waist. Measure and cut piece of PATTERN PIECES cut - 50-50-55-60-60-65-65 cm stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch organic-cotton single jersey elastic to fit the child (length of elastic = hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with child’s waist measurement minus 4…5 cm) 1 pants panel 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% twin needle on regular sewing machine. and insert it into casing. Stitch ends of - 50…55 cm elastic, width 20 mm Joining: Fold up, press and stitch hems elastic together. Close opening on casing at bottom edges of legs. Stitch leg inseams. by hand-stitching. PATTERN SHEET B blue

17. Be Positive T-shirt 92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Pages 4-5

3 4 SEWING Construction techniques: Stitch seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 48. 1 2 CUTTING Joining: Stitch sleeve fronts to armhole edges of front panel right sides together. Cut sleeve fronts and back panel from Pin sleeve backs to front panel and sleeve solid-color single jersey, sleeve backs from fronts right sides together and stitch striped single jersey and front panel from shoulder/overarm seams. Pin left sleeve printed single jersey as indicated on list back to back panel right sides together of pattern pieces, placing center-front and and stitch raglan seam. Finish neckline PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS center-back edges of pattern pieces on with binding. Pin right sleeve back to back fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- panel and stitch raglan seam. Fold seam - 50-50-50-55-55-60 cm printed, ances to all other edges except neckline. 1 front 1 30 cm striped and 45-50-50-55- allowances to one side and stitch them Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing flat across neckline binding. 2 back 1 55-60 cm solid-color organic- for finishing neckline. If you use a binder 3 sleeve front 2 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), attachment on your coverstitch machine Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side 4 sleeve back 2 stretch/recovery 30% to attach the binding, cut the strip in the seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) width that fits the binder. hem and sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern. PATTERN SHEET C green

18. Explorer shorts 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 4-5

MATERIALS - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60 cm tightly-woven cotton fabric (CO) - 50…55 cm elastic, width 25 mm SEWING same time, topstitch crotch seam close Construction techniques: Stitch seams to seamline from bottom of mock fly to with straight stitch and finish them with back waist edge. Pin and stitch side seams, serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching fold seam allowances toward pants backs close to edge or seamline unless other- and topstitch seams. wise instructed. Waistline: Stitch ends of waistband to- Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket gether to form circle. Fold waistband in facing to edge of pocket opening on pants half wrong sides together and press. Meas- 4 3 front, right sides together. Clip seam ure and cut piece of elastic to fit the allowances along curved edge of pocket child’s waist (length of elastic = child’s opening and understitch them to pocket waist measurement minus 4…5 cm). 5 facing close to seamline. Fold pocket facing Stitch ends of elastic together to form to wrong side and topstitch edge of pocket circle and mark both elastic and waistband opening using presser-foot edge as guide. into quarters. Unfold waistband and pin Pin and stitch pocket piece to pocket facing elastic to its inner half, aligning quarter right sides together. Machine-baste side marks and placing top edge of elastic along edge of pocket to side seam allowance foldline on waistband. Machine-baste elastic and its top edge to waist seam allowance to waistband by stitching across it at 1 2 of pants front. quarter marks. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right Pin and stitch right side of inner edge of sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold waistband to wrong side of pants waist. seam allowances toward pants backs and Turn pants inside out. Turn seam allowance topstitch seams. Pin pants halves together at free outer edge of waistband under PATTERN PIECES cut and stitch crotch seam (note that stitching and pin and stitch edge through all layers to pants waist. Sew another row of stitch- line runs along outer edges of mock fly 1 pants front 2 extensions). Fold and press mock fly ex- ing through all layers in the middle of waistband, stretching elastic as you sew. 2 pants back 2 CUTTING tension onto left pants front and edge- 3 pocket piece 2 Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- stitch along folded center-front edge of Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems left mock-fly extension. Pin mock-fly ex- at bottom edges of legs as marked on 4 pocket facing 2 cated on list of pattern pieces, placing 5 waistband 1 center-front edge of pattern piece for tensions to left pants front and topstitch pattern. waistband on fabric fold and adding 10 mm them in place along their outer edges seam allowances to other edges. with two parallel rows of stitching. At the PATTERN SHEET C red

19. Adventurer multi-pocket vest 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 5

7 3 PATTERN PIECES cut 5 Shell Lining MATERIALS 6 1 front - 2 - 45-45-50-50-55-60-65 cm tightly- 4 front 2 - woven cotton fabric (CO) for shell front yoke 2 - - 45-45-50-50-55-55-55 cm 2 back - 1 gingham-check cotton back 1 - fabric (CO) for lining back yoke 1 - - 10 cm interfacing, 3 pen pocket 1 - Vlieseline® H 180 4 pen loop piece 1 - - 4 small snap fasteners, 1 2 5 D-ring tab 1 - ø 10 mm, Prym Jersey 6 pocket 2 - - 3…4 large open-ring snap 7 pocket flap 2 - fasteners, ø 18 mm, Prym Giant - D-ring, width 20 mm PATTERN SHEET C black - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80

CUTTING SEWING Pen loops: Fold pen loop piece in half Pockets: Fold pocket right sides together Lining: Cut lining pieces from gingham- Construction techniques: Stitch seams lengthwise and stitch long edges together. at each bottom corner and stitch corners. check fabric as indicated on list of pattern with straight stitch using topstitching Turn pen loop piece right side out, press Turn pockets right side out. Stitch hems pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern thread that matches shell fabric. Sew top- it flat and topstitch along both long edges. at opening edges of pockets as marked piece for back on fabric fold and adding stitching close to edge or seamline unless Turn seam allowance at one end of pen on pattern. Turn and press seam allow- 10 mm seam allowances only to shoulder otherwise instructed. loop piece to wrong side and pin and ances at other pocket edges to wrong and side-seam edges. stitch end to right front panel as marked side. Pin and stitch pockets to shell front Preparation: Fuse interfacing to pocket on pattern. Place a pen under loop piece, panels as marked on pattern. Fold pleats Shell: Cut off pattern pieces for front flaps, pockets and front edges of shell next to its stitched end, and sew vertical at top corners of pockets and stitch them yoke and back yoke from patterns for pieces (see areas shaded in grey on small- row of stitching across loop piece on the in position with rows of back-and-forth front and back. Cut shell pieces from scale patterns). Attach small snap fasteners other side of the pen, forming a raised stitching. tightly-woven cotton fabric as indicated to pockets and pocket flaps as marked loop. Stitch another raised loop in the on list of pattern pieces, placing center- on pattern, placing piece of interfaced Fold each pocket flap piece in half right same way. Stitch free end of loop piece sides together and stitch its side edges. back edges of pattern pieces on fabric shell fabric under each snap to reinforce to front panel, placing a pen under loop fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances snap area. Trim corners and turn pocket flaps right piece to form a third raised loop. side out. Press flaps flat and topstitch to all other edges except neckline, front Shell front edges, bottom-hem edges and armholes. D-ring tab: Turn seam allowances at their edges. Pin and stitch flaps above Pen pocket: Fold, press and stitch hem long edges of D-ring tab to wrong side pockets right sides together, placing stitch- Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips on the at opening edge of pen pocket as marked and edgestitch along edges. Thread tab ing 15 mm above opening edges of pock- bias from shell fabric for finishing neckline, on pattern. Turn and press seam allow- through D-ring and place D-ring in the ets. Fold each pocket flap down in position front edges and bottom hem (one con- ances at other pocket edges to wrong middle of tab. Fold tab in half wrong sides and topstitch along its top edge from tinuous binding strip) and armholes. Meas- side, and pin and stitch pocket to left together and stitch a rectangle close to right side using presser-foot edge as guide. ure required lengths of binding on pattern shell-front panel as marked on pattern. D-ring through all layers of tab. Sew two >>> pieces and add seam allowances. Join Sew two vertical rows of stitching on rows of stitching in a cross pattern within binding strips following illustrated instruc- pocket through all layers as marked on rectangle. Machine-baste open end of tab tions on p. 45. pattern to divide pocket into pen com- to yoke edge of left front panel as marked partments. on pattern. Joining shell: Stitch yokes to front and Press seam allowances on lining toward armhole seam allowances slightly if nec- Finishing: Attach socket halves of snap back panels, fold seam allowances toward front panels. Place shell and lining within essary. Wrap binding over armhole edge fasteners to garment’s left front edge and yokes and topstitch seams. Stitch shoulder one another wrong sides together and to right side of garment, turn seam allow- stud halves to right front edge, placing seams, fold seam allowances toward back machine-baste their armholes, necklines, ance at its free edge under, pin edge to top and bottom snap as marked on pat- yoke and topstitch seams. Stitch side front edges and bottom-hem edges to- armhole and stitch close to edge. Stitch tern and the rest at regular intervals seams and press seam allowances toward gether, stitching within seam allowances. ends of binding for neckline, front edges between these. back panel. Stitch ends of each armhole binding to- and bottom-hem edge together to form Joining shell and lining: Place lining gether to form circles. Pin right side of circle and stitch binding to garment's fronts and back right sides together and binding to wrong side of armhole and edges in the same way as armhole bind- stitch shoulder seams and side seams. stitch with 8 mm seam allowance. Trim ings.

20. Hello Shark sleeveless hoodie 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 10-11

MATERIALS - 50-55-70-70-75-85-90 cm wide-striped and 45 cm thin- striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% - 5 cm red and 5 cm blue ribbing (CO/EL) For appliqué: PATTERN PIECES cut - pieces of red, grey and white 1 front 1 single jersey 2 - piece of double-sided fusible web, 1 3 2 back 1 Vlieseline® Vliesofix 3 hood 2+2 - piece of tear-away backing, shark appliqué Vlieseline® Stickvlies PATTERN SHEET C orange CUTTING SEWING fusible web and iron shapes to front panel of hood with red ribbed binding. Overlap Cut hood lining panels from narrow- Construction techniques: Stitch seams as shown in design sketch. Place piece of front corners of hood, aligning center- striped single jersey and other garment with serger or with overedge stretch tear-away backing on wrong side of front front marks, and machine-baste them in pieces from wide-striped single jersey as stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch panel under appliqué. Stitch shapes in position along seam allowances. indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing bottom hem with 3-thread coverstitch place close to edge with straight stitch, Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Finish center-front and center-back edges of or with twin needle on regular sewing using matching thread for each shape. armholes with blue ribbed binding. Stitch pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding machine. See general instructions for Embroider shark’s eyes with straight stitch, side seams. Fold side seam allowances to 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges finishing edges with binding on p. 48. observing pattern markings. Remove tear- one side and stitch them flat across arm- away backing. except armholes and face edges of hood Appliqué: Trace parts of shark on paper hole bindings. Pin and stitch hood to panels. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips backing of double-sided fusible web and Hood: Pin outer hood panels as well as garment’s neckline right sides together. from red ribbing for finishing face edge cut them out with generous seam allow- hood lining panels right sides together Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem. of hood and from blue ribbing for finishing ances. Iron shark’s head onto wrong side and stitch top/center-back seams. Press armholes. If you use a binder attachment of grey, teeth on wrong side of white and seams. Place hood sections within one on your coverstitch machine to attach mouth on wrong side of red piece of another wrong sides together and ma- the bindings, cut the binding strips in the jersey. Cut appliqué shapes out along their chine-baste their edges together, stitching width that fits the binder. outlines. Remove paper backing from within seam allowances. Finish face edge

21. Hui Hai shorts 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 10-11

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 4 3 1 pants front 2 2 pants back - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60 cm blue, 5 side panel a 2 35…40 cm grey, 30…35 cm red center panel b 2 and15 cm white tightly-woven inner side panel c 2 cotton poplin (CO) 3 pocket piece 2 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 25 mm 2 4 pocket facing 2 - piece of double-sided fusible web, 1 5 waistband 1 Vlieseline® Vliesofix shark’s teeth 2 - pale-grey topstitching thread, a Epic no. 80 c b - black and white sewing thread PATTERN SHEET C red

CUTTING SEWING mirror image. Iron fusible web with tooth panels (a) to center panels (b) right sides Cut up pattern for pants back into three Construction techniques: Stitch seams motifs onto wrong side of white fabric. together. Fold seam allowances toward separate pattern pieces along marked with straight stitch and finish them with Cut sets of teeth out along their outlines, side panels and topstitch seams. Pin and seamlines. Cut center panels b (= shark’s serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching remove paper backing from fusible web stitch inner side panels (c) to center pan- head) from grey, inner side panels c (shark’s close to edge or seamline unless other- and iron teeth onto inner side panels cut els. Fold seam allowances toward center mouth) from red and other garment wise instructed, using pale-grey topstitch- from red fabric. Stitch sets of teeth in panels and topstitch seams. pieces from blue fabric as indicated on ing thread. place with short straight stitch close to Front-hip pockets, Joining, Waistline, edge, using white thread. Embroider list of pattern pieces, placing center-front Appliqué: Trace shark’s teeth from pat- Finishing: Follow instructions for design edge of pattern piece for waistband on shark’s eyes as marked on pattern, using 18. tern sheet and draw them on paper back- black thread. fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- ing of double-sided fusible web. Draw ances to other edges. another set of teeth on paper backing as Joining pants backs: Pin and stitch side 22. Tribal Triangles tank top 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 6-7

1

CUTTING stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch Cut yokes from grey and green single bottom hem with 3-thread coverstitch 2 3 jersey and other garment pieces from or with twin needle on regular sewing printed single jersey as indicated on list machine. See general instructions for of pattern pieces, placing center-front and finishing edges with binding on p. 48. center-back edges of pattern pieces on Joining: Pin yokes to back panel right fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam allow- sides together and stitch shoulder seams. ances to all other edges except neckline Finish neckline with binding. Overlap bot- and armholes. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding tom edges of yokes, aligning center-front MATERIALS strips from ribbing for finishing neckline marks, and machine-baste them in posi- and armholes. If you use a binder attach- tion. Pin front panel to yokes right sides PATTERN PIECES cut - 50-55-55-60-60-60-65-65 cm ment on your coverstitch machine to together and stitch yoke seam. printed and 20 cm x 30 cm pieces attach the bindings, cut the binding strips Finish armholes with binding. Stitch side 1 yoke 1+1 of both green and grey organic- in the width that fits the binder. seams. Fold side seam allowances to one 2 front 1 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), side and stitch them flat across armhole 3 back 1 stretch/recovery 30% SEWING bindings. Fold up, press and stitch bottom - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL) Construction techniques: Stitch seams hem as marked on pattern. PATTERN SHEET grey with serger or with overedge stretch C

23. Circles Bermudas 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 6-7, 12-13

MATERIALS Design A: - 70-70-75-75-80-80-85-95 cm 5 printed cotton poplin (CO) 6 PATTERN PIECES cut Design B: 7 Design A B - 80-80-80-85-85-90-95-95 cm solid-color cotton poplin (CO) 8 1 pants front 2 2 2 pants back 2 2 Both designs: 1 2 3 pocket piece 2 2 - 10 cm interfacing, 4 pocket facing 2 2 Vlieseline® H 180 4 5 pocket 2 4 - 36-37-39-40-42-44-46-48 cm 6 pocket flap 2 4 elastic, width 30 mm 7 waistband 1 1 - zipper, length 7-7-8-8-9-9- 8 fly shield 1 1 10-10 cm - 7 (A) or 11 (B) open-ring snap 3 fasteners, ø 11 mm, Prym Jersey PATTERN SHEET C blue CUTTING ding stud half to pants front, pushing out. Press flaps flat and topstitch their edge of waist seam allowance. Cut garment pieces from poplin as indi- prongs through pocket facing and pants edges. Pin and stitch flaps above pockets Waistline: Fold waistband in half leng- cated on list of pattern pieces, placing cen- fabric. right sides together, placing stitching thwise and press. Pin elastic to wrong ter-back edge of pattern piece for waist- Pin pocket piece to pocket facing right 15 mm above opening edges of pockets. side of non-interfaced half of waistband, band on fabric fold and adding 10 mm sides together and stitch bottom of poc- Fold pocket flaps down in position and placing its edge along foldline on waistband seam allowances to other edges. Cut also ket. Pin and machine-baste side edge of topstitch along their top edges from right and aligning its ends with pattern markings 4.5 cm x 44 cm strip for belt loops. pocket to side seam allowance and its side using presser-foot edge as guide. and its midpoint with center-back mark top edge to waist seam allowance of Attach snap fasteners to pocket flaps as on waistband. Stitch elastic to waistband SEWING pants front. marked on pattern. at its ends and midpoint. Construction techniques: Stitch seams Back pockets and leg pockets: Fold Joining: Stitch leg inseams, fold seam al- Pin and stitch right side of non-interfaced with straight stitch and finish them with pocket pieces wrong sides together along lowances toward pants backs and top- half of waistband to wrong side of pants serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams each pattern line marking pleat foldline, stitch seams. Finish raw crotch edges and waist edge. Fold waistband right sides to- and edges with two parallel rows of stit- press and edgestitch along folded edges. edges of zipper placket. Stitch crotch gether on pants front and stitch its ends. ching unless otherwise instructed. Fold pleats on pockets as marked on pat- seam from back waist to notch for zipper Trim corners and turn ends of waistband tern and machine-baste them in position placket on pants front. Apply zipper to right side out. Turn waistband right way Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to areas placket, following illustrated instructions shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. along seam allowances at top and bottom up, turn seam allowance at its free outer edges of pockets. Stitch hems at opening for fly-front zipper on p. 48. Topstitch edge under and stitch edge to right side Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket edges of pockets. Attach snap fasteners crotch seam. Pin and stitch side seams, of pants waist. Topstitch around waistband facing to edge of pocket opening on pants to pockets as marked on pattern, placing fold seam allowances toward pants backs close to edge. Stitch across ends and mid- front right sides together. Clip seam allo- piece of interfaced poplin under each and topstitch seams. point of elastic through all layers of wances along curved edge of pocket snap to reinforce snap area. Turn and Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of waistband. Sew a row of stitching in the opening and trim them slightly. Fold pocket press seam allowances at other pocket belt loop strip, fold strip in three and middle of elastic through all layers, stret- facing to wrong side, press edge of pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and topstitch stitch two parallel rows of topstitching ching elastic as you sew. Stitch free ends opening thoroughly and topstitch edge. pockets to pants backs (designs A and B) in the middle of strip. Cut strip into five of belt loops to top edge of waistband. Fold edge of pocket opening onto right and to pants fronts (design B) as marked equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch one Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems side of pants front as marked on pattern on pattern. end of each belt loop to pants waist as and press. Attach socket half of snap fas- at bottom edges of legs as marked on Fold each pocket flap piece in half right shown in design sketch, right sides toge- pattern. Attach snap to waistband. tener at pattern marking on folded edge ther. Sew another row of stitching across of pocket opening and attach correspon- sides together and stitch its side edges. Trim corners and turn flaps right side each belt loop 2 cm away from outer 24. City Safari shirt 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 7, 58-59

A A B MATERIALS Design A: - 55-60-65-70-70-70-75-80 cm PATTERN PIECES cut pale-grey and 20 cm dark-grey 6 cotton poplin (CO) - 6…7 open-ring snap fasteners, Design AB ø 11 mm 6 5 1 front yoke 2 2 2 front 2 2 B Design B: 12 - 20 cm red gingham-check, 45- 3 back yoke 1 1 7 3 4 back 1 1 45-50-50-50-50-55-60 cm 1 black gingham-check and 40-45- 5 sleeve 2 2 45-45-50-50-55-55 cm printed 6 collar 2 1+1 cotton poplin (CO) 9 7 button band 2 2 - 6…7 buttons, ø 11-12 mm 8 chest pocket 2 - 2 4 8 9 chest pocket flap 2 - Both designs: 10 lower pocket 2 - - 20…25 cm interfacing, 11 lower pocket flap 2 - Vlieseline® H 180 11 12 pocket - 1 - pale-colored topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 10 PATTERN SHEET D red

CUTTING press and stitch hem at opening edge of gether. Fold seam allowances toward Turn all neckline seam allowances inside Design A: Cut yokes and pocket flaps pocket as marked on pattern. Turn seam yokes and topstitch seams. Pin front panels collar, pin bottom edge of upper collar from dark-grey and other garment pieces allowances at other pocket edges to to back panel right sides together and to neckline carefully and stitch. Topstitch from pale-grey fabric as indicated on list wrong side, and pin and stitch pocket to stitch shoulder seams. Fold seam allow- around collar: on design A, sew topstitch- of pattern pieces, placing center-back front panel as marked on pattern (smaller ances toward back panel and topstitch ing close to edge; on design B, topstitch edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and pockets = chest pockets; larger pockets seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, edges of actual collar with two parallel adding 10 mm seam allowances to other = lower pockets). fold seam allowances toward body of rows of stitching and sew topstitching edges. Fold each pocket flap piece in half right garment and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve close to edge along curved front corners underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, of collar. Design B: Cut front yokes and under sides together and stitch its side edges. Trim corners and turn flap right side out. press and stitch hems at bottom edges Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bot- collar from red gingham-check fabric, of sleeves as marked on pattern. pocket and back panel from printed fabric Press flap flat and serge or zigzag its open tom hem as marked on pattern. and other garment pieces from black edges together. Pin and stitch flaps above Button bands: Fold each button band Design A: Attach to collar gingham-check fabric as indicated on list pockets right sides together, placing stitch- in half as marked on pattern and press.Pin as marked on pattern. Attach snap fasten- of pattern pieces, placing center-back ing 12 mm above opening edges of pock- and stitch right side of non-interfaced ers to button bands, placing them along edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and ets. Fold flaps down in position and press edge of button band to wrong side of center-front line as follows: top snap app- adding 10 mm seam allowances to other their top edges. Stitch short horizontal front edge of front panel. Turn seam al- rox. 4 cm below neckline seam and the edges. rows of back-and-forth stitching at top lowance at edge of interfaced half of but- rest below it at regular 6…7 cm intervals. corners of pocket flaps to secure flaps in ton band to wrong side, pin edge carefully Design B: Stitch buttonhole on collar as SEWING position, stitching presser-foot width away to right side of front panel and stitch from top edges of flaps. close to edge. Edgestitch outer edge of marked on pattern. Stitch buttonholes Construction techniques: Stitch seams button band. on left button band, placing them along with straight stitch and finish them with Pocket, design B: Construct pocket fol- center-front line as follows: top buttonhole serger or zigzag stitch. Design A: Sew top- lowing instructions for design 8. Stitch Collar: Turn and press seam allowance approx. 4 cm below neckline seam and stitching close to edge or seamline unless pocket to left front panel as marked on at bottom edge of interfaced collar piece the rest below it at regular 6…7 cm in- otherwise instructed. Design B: Topstitch pattern. (upper collar) to wrong side and stitch tervals. Sew buttons on right button band seams and edges with two parallel rows Joining: Fold pleat/pleats at top edge of presser-foot width away from edge. Pin and on collar to match buttonholes, using of stitching unless otherwise instructed. back panel as marked on pattern (one collar pieces right sides together and contrast-color sewing thread. Cut piece stitch their outer edges together. Trim Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to button inverted pleat at center-back on design of printed fabric with suitable motif on A; two knife pleats close to armholes on corners, clip to stitching at inward corners it. Turn and press edges of piece to wrong bands and upper collar (see areas shaded and press collar seams open gently with in grey on small-scale patterns). design B) and machine-baste them in posi- side, and pin and stitch piece to bottom tion along top-edge seam allowance. Pin point of iron. Turn collar right side out hem of right front panel for extra detail Pockets, design A: Construct four pock- and stitch front yokes to front panels and and press it flat. Pin and stitch under collar as shown in design sketch. ets for garment’s front as follows: Fold, back yoke to back panel right sides to- to garment’s neckline, right sides together.

25. Hot Stop tank top 116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158 cm Pages 13, 21

MATERIALS Design A: - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60-65 cm 1 printed viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 30% Design B: 2 - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60-65 cm striped and 10 cm pink PATTERN PIECES cut cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 3 4 1 shoulder panel* 2 Both designs: 2 yoke 2 3 front 1 - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 4 back 1 - 10 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® G 785 PATTERN SHEET C lilac CUTTING fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances with serger or with overedge stretch stitch top edges of outer and inner yoke Design A: Cut garment pieces from to all other edges except armholes and stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch panels right sides together, with shoulder single jersey as indicated on list of pattern neckline edges of shoulder and back pan- bottom hem with 3-thread coverstitch panels in between. Fold yoke right side pieces, placing center-front and center- els. *Take note of grainline on pattern or with twin needle on regular sewing out, press its top edge and machine-baste back edges of pattern pieces on fabric piece for shoulder panel. machine. See general instructions for fin- its bottom edges together. fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances Designs A and B: Cut 3.5 cm wide bind- ishing edges with binding on p. 48. Pin front panel to yoke right sides together to all other edges except armholes and ing strips from ribbing for finishing neckline Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to outer and stitch yoke seam. Finish armholes neckline edges of shoulder and back pan- and armholes. If you use a binder attach- yoke panel. with binding. Stitch side seams. Fold side els. ment on your coverstitch machine to Joining: Pin shoulder panels to back seam allowances to one side and stitch Design B: Cut yoke panels from pink attach the bindings, cut the binding strips panel right sides together and stitch shoul- them flat across armhole bindings. Fold and other garment pieces from striped in the width that fits the binder. der seams. Finish neckline with binding. up, press and stitch bottom hem. single jersey as indicated on list of pattern Pin and machine-baste bottom edges of pieces, placing center-front and center- SEWING shoulder panels to top edge of outer back edges of pattern pieces on fabric Construction techniques: Stitch seams yoke panel right sides together. Pin and

26. Denim Love sleeveless shirt 116-122-128-134-140-146-152-158 cm Page 12

9 5 8 10 5 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 7 6 3 1 front yoke 2 - 55-60-60-65-65-70-70-75 cm 1 2 front 2 lightweight cotton denim (CO) 3 back yoke 1 - 35…40 cm printed viscose 4 back 1 fabric (CV) 5 collar 1+1 - 15 cm interfacing, 2 4 6 pocket 2 Vlieseline® H 180 7 button band 1+1 - contrast-color topstitching 8 armhole facing* 2 thread, Epic no. 80 9 tie* 2 - 6…7 snap fasteners with 10 tie casing* 1 decorative caps, ø 12 mm, 3exter - 12 cm elastic, width 10 mm PATTERN SHEET D black

CUTTING Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at concealed within casing. Secure ends of garment, turn seam allowance at its free Cut left button band, under collar, armhole opening edges of pockets as marked on ties in position by stitching across ends edge under and stitch turned-under edge facings, ties and tie casing from printed pattern. Turn and press seam allowances of casing through all layers. to armhole close to edge. Stitch side viscose fabric and other garment pieces at other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin Joining: Pin and stitch front yokes to seams. Fold side seam allowances to one from denim as indicated on list of pattern and topstitch pockets to front panels as front panels right sides together. Fold side and stitch them flat across armhole pieces, placing center-back edges of pat- marked on pattern. seam allowances toward yokes and top- facings. tern pieces on fabric fold and adding Ties: Stitch narrow hems at ends of tie stitch seams. Pin and stitch back yoke to Button bands and collar: Construct 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. casing. Pin and stitch top edge of tie casing back panel right sides together. Clip seam button bands and collar following instruc- *Pattern pieces for armhole facing, tie along pattern marking on back panel, right allowances along curves and notch cor- tions for design 24. Follow instructions and tie casing include seam allowances. sides together. Turn seam allowance at ners. Fold seam allowances toward yoke for design 24/B when constructing collar. Cut armhole facings on the bias. bottom edge of casing to wrong side, pin and topstitch seam. Pin front panels to Finishing: Fold up, pin and stitch narrow edge to back panel and stitch close to back panel right sides together and stitch hem at bottom edge of garment. Attach SEWING edge. shoulder seams. Fold seam allowances snap fastener to collar as marked on Construction techniques: Stitch seams Fold tie pieces in half lengthwise, right toward back panel and topstitch seams. pattern. Attach snap fasteners to button with straight stitch and finish them with sides together, and stitch long edge and Finish armholes with facing as fol- bands, placing them along center-front serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch seams curved end of each tie. Turn ties right lows: Pin and stitch one edge of facing line as follows: top snap approx. 4 cm and edges with two parallel rows of stitch- side out and press them flat. Stitch open to armhole right sides together. Clip below neckline seam and the rest below ing unless otherwise instructed. ends of ties to ends of elastic with zigzag armhole seam allowances along curves it at regular 6…8 cm intervals. Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to button stitch. Thread ties + elastic through casing, and trim them if necessary. Understitch bands and upper collar (see areas shaded stretch elastic slightly and pin its ends to armhole seam allowances to facing close in grey on small-scale patterns). ends of casing so that ends of ties are to seamline. Fold facing to wrong side of

27. Sun Bright brimmed hat head circumference 52-54-56 cm Pages 3, 12

MATERIALS 1 - 50 cm cotton chambray (CO) PATTERN PIECES cut for exterior 3 3 - 25 cm printed cotton fabric (CO) 2 Exterior Lining for lining 1 crown top 1 1 - 75 cm interfacing, 1 2 crown side 1 1 Vlieseline® H 200 3 brim 2 - - cord lock with two large holes - two sew-on snap fasteners, ø 6 mm 2 PATTERN SHEET D lilac CUTTING Brim: Pin and stitch center-back edges aligning pattern markings. Fold seam al- Chin string: Fold each end of chin string Cut hat exterior pieces from chambray of each brim panel right sides together. lowances toward crown side and topstitch strip 2.5 cm back onto itself, right sides and lining pieces from printed cotton Press seams open. Pin brim panels right seam. Construct crown lining in the same together. Stitch along edges of folded por- fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, sides together and stitch their outer edges way, without topstitching seams, and leave tions, placing stitching 5 mm away from placing center-front edges of pattern together. Trim seam allowances to 5 mm opening for turning in seam that joins edge, to form “” at ends of chin string. pieces on fabric fold and adding 10 mm and press seam open gently with point crown side and crown top. Press lining. Turn ends of chin string right side out. seam allowances to other edges. Cut of iron. Turn brim right side out and press Joining exterior and lining: Pin and Fold string in half lengthwise, wrong sides 2.2 cm x 35 cm strip from chambray for it flat thoroughly. Sew rows of topstitching stitch brim to bottom edge of crown ex- together, and press (open edges of folded chin string. on brim, placing the first row 10 mm terior, right sides together, aligning pattern ends are on wrong side of string). Turn away from outer edge of brim and spacing markings on crown and brim. Place crown seam allowances at long edges of string SEWING the rest 10 mm apart from each other. exterior and lining within one another in and stitch edges together, starting and ending stitching approx. 1.5 cm away from Construction techniques: Stitch seams Crown: Pin and stitch center-back edges right sides together, with brim in between, of exterior crown-side panel right sides and stitch their bottom edges together. ends of string. Thread chin string through with straight stitch. No seam finish is nec- cord lock. Sew socket halves of snap fas- essary as the hat is fully lined. Sew top- together. Press seam open and topstitch Turn hat right side out and close opening it with two parallel rows of stitching, for turning. Topstitch brim attachment teners at ends of string and sew corre- stitching close to edge or seamline unless sponding stud halves on the inside of hat otherwise instructed. placing rows on each side of seamline. seam through all layers, working from hat Pin and stitch exterior crown side to exterior side and placing stitching on as marked on pattern. Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to all hat exterior crown top right sides together, crown. exterior pieces.

28. Summer Camo unlined parka 98-104-110-116-122-128-134 cm Pages 16-17, 19

10 9 6 7 11 8

3 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 120-130-135-135-140-150- 4 155 cm camouflage cotton fabric 1 front 2 (CO), design A, or printed poplin 2 back 1 (CO), design B 3 sleeve 2 - 50…65 cm interfacing, 4 hood side panel 2 Vlieseline® H 200 or H 180 5 hood center panel 1 - 5…6 buttons, ø 20 mm 1 2 6 hood facing 1 For design A also: 5 7 pocket 2 - 15 cm solid-color poplin for 8 pocket side piece 2 drawstring casing, drawstring, 9 pocket flap 2 hanging loop and neckline binding 10 drawstring casing* 1 For design B also: 11 neckline binding* 1 - 100…120 cm taffeta ribbon, width 25 mm, for drawstring PATTERN SHEET E blue - two , ø 6 mm

CUTTING SEWING top ends of side piece are concealed, and stitch top edge of drawstring casing along Design A: Cut garment pieces 1-9 from Construction techniques: Stitch seams stitch through all layers to secure corners pattern marking on front and back panels, fashion fabric as indicated on list of pattern with straight stitch and finish them with in place. with right side of casing against wrong pieces, placing center-line edge of pattern serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching Fold each pocket flap piece in half right side of garment. Turn seam allowance at piece for hood facing and center-back close to edge or seamline unless other- sides together and stitch its side edges. bottom edge of casing to wrong side, pin edge of pattern piece for back on fabric wise instructed. Trim corners and turn flaps right side edge to garment and stitch close to edge. fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to areas out. Press flaps flat and topstitch their Hanging loop: Fold hanging loop strip to other edges. shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. outer edges. Pin and stitch flaps above in half lengthwise, turn seam allowances Cut drawstring casing and neckline binding pockets right sides together, placing stit- at its long edges in and stitch edges toge- Pockets: Stitch hem at opening edge of ching 15 mm above opening edges of ther. Pin and stitch ends of hanging loop from solid-color poplin; *pattern pieces pocket as marked on pattern. Turn and for these include seam allowances. Cut pockets. Fold pocket flaps down in posi- to neckline seam allowance on back panel, press seam allowance at one long edge tion and topstitch along their top edges, placing them on each side of center-back also 3 cm x 10 cm strip from poplin for of pocket side piece to wrong side. Pin hanging loop and 3.5 cm x 100…120 cm concealing seam allowances at their at- mark. and stitch the other edge of pocket side tachment edges. strip for drawstring. piece to outer edge of pocket right sides Hood: Pin and stitch hood side panels Design B: Cut garment pieces from together, observing pattern markings. Fold Joining: Pin front panels to back panel to center panel right sides together. Fold printed poplin as indicated on list of pat- seam allowances toward pocket and top- right sides together and stitch shoulder seam allowances toward center panel tern pieces, placing center-line edge of stitch seam. Pin pattern piece for pocket seams. Fold seam allowances toward back and topstitch seams. Turn and press seam pattern piece for hood facing and center- on right side of front panel, observing panel and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch allowance at outer edge of hood facing back edge of pattern piece for back on pattern markings, and machine-baste sleeves to armholes, fold seam allowances to wrong side. Pin and stitch hood facing fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allo- around it with straight stitch to mark toward body of garment and topstitch to face edge of hood right sides together. wances to other edges. *Pattern pieces position of pocket on front panel. Pin and seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and Clip seam allowances along curves and for drawstring casing and neckline binding stitch pocket to front panel, placing outer side seams. Fold up, press and stitch hems understitch face-edge seam allowances include seam allowances. Cut also 3 cm edge of pocket side piece along previous at bottom edges of sleeves as marked on to hood facing close to seamline. Pin and x 10 cm strip for hanging loop. row of machine-basting. Fold pleats at pattern. stitch front edges of hood and hood facing top ends of pocket side piece, pin top Drawstring casing: Stitch narrow hems right sides together. >>> corners of pocket to front panel, so that at ends of drawstring casing strip. Pin and Front edges, hemline and neckline: chine-baste necklines of front facings and and stitch its turned-under edge to neck- wrong side of front panels and attach Turn and press seam allowances to wrong front panels together. line. Turn front neckline corners of hood grommets. Insert taffeta ribbon into draw- side at outer edges of front facings on Pin and stitch hood to garment’s neckline right side out. Pin and stitch outer edge string casing and thread its ends out front panels and clip seam allowances right sides together. Fold hood facing onto of hood facing to hood. through grommets to right side of gar- along curves. Fold up and press bottom each front facing right sides together and Design A: Fold drawstring strip in half ment. Adjust length of ribbon by tying its hem as marked on pattern. Fold front stitch neckline of hood facing to front lengthwise, wrong sides together, and ends into bows. facings to right side of front panels at neckline seam. Trim neckline seam allow- press. Turn seam allowances at its long Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew bottom hem and stitch bottom edges of ances to 6 mm and clip them along curves. edges and ends in and stitch edges to- buttons on front edges of hood and front facings to front panels along bottom-hem Pin and stitch one edge of neckline binding gether. Insert drawstring into drawstring panels as marked on pattern. foldline. Trim bottom-hem seam allow- to neckline seam, with its right side against casing and adjust its length by tying knots ances across front facings. Turn bottom- wrong side of garment and with its ends at its ends. hem corners right side out. Pin and stitch slightly overlapping hood facing. Turn seam bottom hem. Pin and stitch outer edges Design B: Pin pieces of interfaced poplin allowance at free edge of binding under, at pattern markings for grommets on of front facings to front panels and ma- pin binding over neckline seam allowances

29. Snap-off summer pants 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 16-17, 58-59

5 7

b c PATTERN PIECES cut a 6 4 3 1 pants front 2 2 pants back side panel a 2 center panel b 2 1 2 inner side panel c 2 MATERIALS 3 pocket piece 2 - 75-80-85-90-95-100-105 cm 4 pocket facing 2 tightly-woven cotton fabric (CO) 5 waistband 1 - 20 cm interfacing, 6 back pocket 2 Vlieseline® H 180 7 back pocket flap 2 8 leg-bottom front 2 - 50…55 cm elastic, width 25 mm 9 - 12 open-ring snap fasteners, 8 9 leg-bottom back 2 ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET C red

CUTTING leg-bottom fronts and backs (see areas of pockets in order to reinforce them. bottom backs and topstitch seams. Fold, Cut up pattern for pants back into three shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Fold each pocket flap piece in half right press and stitch hems at top and bottom separate pattern pieces along marked Front-hip pockets: Construct front- sides together and stitch its side edges. edges of leg bottoms as marked on pat- seamlines. Cut garment pieces from fabric hip pockets following instructions for Trim corners and turn pocket flap right tern. as indicated on list of pattern pieces, plac- design 18. side out. Press pocket flap flat and top- Finishing: Fold and press hems at bottom ing center-front edge of pattern piece for Joining pants backs: Construct pants stitch its edges using presser-foot edge edges of legs on pants as marked on pat- waistband on fabric fold and adding 10 mm backs following instructions for design as guide. Pin and stitch flap above pocket tern. Mark position of snap fasteners on seam allowances to other edges. 21. right sides together, placing stitching bottom-leg hem allowances, observing 15 mm above opening edge of pocket. pattern markings, and attach socket halves SEWING Back pockets: Fold back pocket right Fold pocket flap down in position and of snap fasteners to hem allowances. Turn sides together at each bottom corner Construction techniques: Stitch seams topstitch along its top edge from right edges of hem allowances to wrong side and stitch corners. Turn pocket right side side using presser-foot edge as guide. and pin and stitch hems. Mark position with straight stitch and finish them with out and topstitch corner seams. Stitch serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching Joining, Waistline: Follow instructions of stud halves of snap fasteners carefully hems at opening edges of back pockets along top edges of detachable leg bottoms close to edge or seamline unless other- as marked on pattern. Turn seam allow- for design 18. wise instructed. to match socket halves and attach stud ances at other pocket edges to wrong Detachable leg bottoms: Pin leg-bot- halves. Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to back side. Pin and topstitch pockets to pants tom fronts and backs right sides together pocket flaps, bottom edges of legs on backs as marked on pattern. Stitch rows in pairs and stitch leg inseams and side pants fronts and backs, and top edges of of back-and-forth stitching at top corners seams. Fold seam allowances toward leg-

30. Bluebell puffed sleeve dress 92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Page 56

MATERIALS 3 - 65-65-70-80-85-90 cm lightweight printed cotton satin PATTERN PIECES cut (CO), width 140 cm 2 - 65-65-70-75-80-80 cm cotton 1 Shell batiste (CO) in matching color, 1 front 1 width 140 cm 2 back 2 - 15 cm interfacing, 3 sleeve 2 Vlieseline® G 785 Lining - invisible zipper, length 25 cm 1 front* 1 - 36-37-38-40-41-42 cm clear 2 back* 2 elastic tape (Framilon®) or regular elastic, width 5 mm PATTERN SHEET D blue CUTTING applying interfacing to garment pieces! The bottom of the zipper placket on the along pattern lines marking bottom edges Cut shell from satin and lining from batiste Joining: Pin shell front and back panels lining is thus not attached to the shell in of sleeves, stretching tapes as you sew to as indicated on list of pattern pieces, right sides together and stitch shoulder order to allow ease for sitting. gather sleeves evenly. placing center-front edge of pattern piece seams and side seams. Stitch shoulder Pin necklines of shell and lining right sides Sew gathering stitches along sleeve cap for front on fabric fold and adding 10 mm seams and side seams of lining in the together, fold all center-back seam allow- of outer half of each sleeve and gather seam allowances to other edges. same way. Press seam allowances on shell ances onto lining and stitch neckline seam. portion of cap between pattern markings *Cut bottom-hem edges of lining front toward back panels and on lining toward Trim neckline seam allowances slightly to 8 cm. Fold sleeves right sides together and back panels along pattern lines mark- front panel. Stitch narrow hems at arm- and clip them along curves, staggering lengthwise and stitch underarm seams of ing bottom-hem foldlines of shell. holes of lining. position of clips on shell and lining. Trim sleeves. Fold each sleeve in half in its final Zipper and neckline: Finish raw center- seam allowances at top corners of placket position and pin and machine-baste sleeve SEWING back edges of shell and lining. Open zipper. and trim off excess ends of zipper tapes. cap edges together. Pin and stitch sleeves Understitch neckline seam allowances to to armholes of shell right sides together. Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pin one zipper half to center-back edge of shell right sides together and stitch it lining close to seamline, working from Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bot- with straight stitch and finish them with right side of lining. Turn garment right serger or zigzag stitch. in place using invisible zipper foot. Stitch tom hem of shell as marked on pattern. the other zipper half to the other center- side out and turn top corners of placket Stitch hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at bottom edge Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to necklines back edge in the same way. Turn shell and in position. of lining. of shell front and back panels and, if your lining inside out. Pin and stitch left zipper- Stitch center-back seams of shell and fabric is very lightweight, also to zipper placket edge of lining to placket edge of lining from notch for zipper placket to placket edges of shell back panels (see shell, right sides together and with zipper bottom hem. Press center-back seams areas shaded in grey on small-scale pat- in between. Place stitching 5 mm away open and press zipper placket gently. terns). Cut outer edges of interfacing from stitching line that attaches zipper pieces with to prevent Sleeves: Cut two equal-length pieces of and stop stitching 3 cm before notch for clear elastic tape. Check that pieces are edges from showing through fabric. Ex- placket on lining. Stitch right zipper-placket periment with a scrap of fabric before the right fit around the child’s arms. Stitch edge of lining to shell in the same way. clear elastic tapes to wrong side of sleeves

31. Daisy dress 128-134-140-146-152 cm Page 57

1 3

1 3

PATTERN PIECES cut Satin MATERIALS 4 1 front yoke 1+1 - 110-115-120-125-130 cm 2 2 front 1 lightweight printed cotton 3 back yoke 2+ 2 satin (CO), width 140 cm 4 back 2 - 65-70-75-80-80 cm cotton Batiste batiste (CO), width 140 cm 2 front* 1 - 30 cm interfacing, 4 back* 2 Vlieseline® G 785 - invisible zipper, length 25 cm PATTERN SHEET E green

CUTTING stitch shell front to shell front yoke and curves, staggering position of clips on ances at top corners of placket and trim Cut all shell pieces as well as lining yokes lining front to lining front yoke. Fold pleats shell and lining. Turn garment right side off excess ends of zipper tapes. Under- from satin and cut lining front and back on shell and lining back panels as marked out by pushing back panels between shoul- stitch neckline seam allowances to lining panels from batiste as indicated on list of on pattern and machine-baste them in ders of shell and lining toward front panel. close to seamline, working from right side pattern pieces, placing center-front edges position. Pin and stitch shell back panels Zipper: Finish raw center-back edges of of lining. Turn garment right side out and of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding to shell back yokes and lining back panels shell and lining. Open zipper. Pin one zip- turn top corners of placket in position. 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. to lining back yokes. Fold and press seam per half to center-back edge of shell right Stitch center-back seams of shell and lin- *Cut bottom-hem edges of lining front allowances of yoke seams on shell gently sides together and stitch it in place using ing from notch for zipper placket to bot- and back panels along pattern lines mark- toward yokes. Understitch seam allow- invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other tom hem. Press center-back seams open ing bottom-hem foldlines of shell. ances of yoke seams on lining to yokes zipper half to the other center-back edge and press zipper placket gently. close to seamline. in the same way. Pin and stitch left zipper- Finishing: Pin side seams of both lining SEWING Pin shoulder edges of front and back placket edge of lining to placket edge of and shell right sides together and stitch Construction techniques: Stitch seams yokes of shell right sides together and shell, right sides together and with zipper side seams: start stitching from bottom- with straight stitch and finish them with stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. in between. Place stitching 5 mm away hem edge of lining, stitch toward armhole serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch shoulder seams of lining in the from stitching line that attaches zipper and continue to bottom-hem edge of same way. Place shell and lining right sides and stop stitching 3 cm before notch for shell. Press seam allowances toward back Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to front and together and pin and stitch their armholes placket on lining. Stitch right zipper-placket panels. Stitch side seam allowances of back yokes of shell and, if your fabric is together. Trim armhole seam allowances, edge of lining to shell in the same way. shell and lining together along a short very lightweight, also to zipper placket clip them along curves and understitch The bottom of the zipper placket on the portion across yoke seams, working from edges of shell back panels (see areas them to lining close to seamline. lining is thus not attached to the shell in the inside of garment. Press armholes shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Pin necklines of shell and lining right sides order to allow ease for sitting. gently. Fold up, press and stitch bottom Joining: Fold pleats on shell and lining together and stitch neckline seam, starting Fold all center-back seam allowances onto hem of shell as marked on pattern. Stitch front panels as marked on pattern and and ending stitching 4 cm away from lining at both top corners of zipper placket hem (1 cm + 1 cm) at bottom edge of machine-baste them in position; note that center-back seamlines. Trim neckline seam and stitch rest of neckline seam on each lining. pleats overlap at center-front. Pin and allowances slightly and clip them along side of zipper placket. Trim seam allow- 32. Little Rosy dress 128-134-140-146-152-158 cm Pages 2, 64-65

5

1 MATERIALS 4 PATTERN PIECES cut - 95-100-105-110-115-125 cm 2 printed and 15 cm solid-color 1 bodice front 1 organic-cotton single jersey 2 waistband 1 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 3 skirt front 1 - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 3 6 4 back 1 - 10 cm interfacing, 5 sleeve 2 Vlieseline® G 785 6 pocket facing 2 - 210…230 cm clear elastic tape, 7 pocket piece 2 width 5 mm, Framilon® 7 PATTERN SHEET D orange

CUTTING See general instructions for finishing edges it between pattern markings. Machine- elastic tape to wrong side of back panel Cut waistband from solid-color and other with binding on p. 48. baste 15 cm pieces of tape to waist seam along pattern line, stretching tape evenly garment pieces from printed single jersey Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to waist- allowances on bodice front and skirt as you sew and aligning its midpoint with as indicated on list of pattern pieces, band. front, placing them between pattern mark- center-back mark. Use either straight placing center-front and center-back edges ings. Machine-baste tapes to right side of stitch or narrow zigzag for stitching. Mark Pockets: Pin and machine-baste pocket garment pieces, so that on finished gar- placement lines for the rest of clear elastic of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding facings to edges of pocket openings on 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges ment they will be concealed within neck- tapes on back panel with tailor's chalk, skirt front wrong sides together. Finish line binding and between waist seam spacing them 10 mm apart below the except neckline and edges of pocket edges of pocket openings with binding. openings on skirt front and pocket facings. allowances. Pin and stitch bodice front first tape. Stitch tapes to back panel. Pin and stitch pocket pieces to pocket and skirt front to waistband right sides Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- facings right sides together. Machine-baste Joining: Pin sleeves to bodice front right bing for finishing neckline and edges of together. Press seam allowances toward sides together and stitch raglan seams. side edges of pockets to side seam allow- waistband. pocket openings. ances and top edges of pockets to waist Pin and stitch right raglan seam on back. seam allowances on skirt front. Back: Cut five pieces of clear elastic tape Finish neckline with binding. Stitch left SEWING for gathering back waistline; length of raglan seam on back. Fold seam allowances Front: Cut one 10 cm piece of clear each piece = half of ** waist measurement to one side and stitch them flat across Construction techniques: Stitch seams elastic tape for gathering neckline and with serger or with overedge stretch + seam allowances. Mark midpoints on neckline binding. Stitch sleeve underarm two 15 cm pieces for gathering waist edges clear elastic tapes and mark center-back seams and side seams. Fold up, press and stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch of bodice front and skirt front. Machine- hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with mark on pattern line indicating waistline stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems baste 10 cm piece of tape to neckline gathering on back panel. Stitch first clear as marked on pattern. twin needle on regular sewing machine. seam allowance on bodice front, placing

33. Stunning Rosy dress 34-36-38-40-42-44-46-48 Pages 2, 65

Note! You’ll find the women’s size chart on p. 47.

6 7 5 MATERIALS CUTTING - 130-135-140-140-145-145-170- Join pattern pieces 4+4A before cutting. 170 cm printed organic-cotton Cut garment pieces from single jersey as 9 single jersey (CO/EL), indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing 8 stretch/recovery 30% center-front and center-back edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding - 30 cm interfacing, 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. Vlieseline® G 785 - 250…310 cm clear elastic tape, SEWING width 5 mm, Framilon® Construction techniques: Stitch seams 1 with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine unless 4 otherwise instructed. Stitch machine- 2 PATTERN PIECES cut basting with straight stitch. Stitch hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with twin 1 bodice front 1 needle on regular sewing machine. 2 waistband 1 Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic 4A 3 skirt front 1 tape for edges of pocket openings on 3 4+4A back 1 skirt front (measure required length of 5 sleeve 2 tape on pattern and add seam allowances). 6 pocket facing 2 Machine-baste tapes to right side of seam 7 pocket piece 2 allowances at edges of pocket openings 8 neckline band, front 2 on skirt front (on finished garment, tapes 9 neckline band, back 2 will be concealed between seam allow- ances). Fuse interfacing to waistband and all neckline band pieces. PATTERN SHEET E red >>> Pockets: Stitch pocket facings to edges gathering neckline and two 22 cm pieces open. Place inner and outer bands right neckline seam carefully and stitch it in of pocket openings on skirt front with for gathering waist edges of bodice front sides together and stitch their neck edges place by stitching-in-the-ditch along neck- serger, stretching seam allowances slightly and skirt front. together with straight stitch. Trim seam line seamline from right side of garment, as you sew. Understitch seam allowances Back: Construct garment’s back following allowances slightly and clip them along using straight stitch. to pocket facings close to seamline. Fold instructions for design 32. curves. Understitch neckline seam allow- pocket facings to wrong side and press ances to inner band close to seamline. edges of pocket openings gently. Stitch Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back Finish raw bottom edge of inner band. pocket facings and pocket pieces right panels and stitch raglan seams. Stitch Place band halves wrong sides together sides together. Machine-baste side edges sleeve underarm seams and side seams. and press band flat. Stitch bottom edge of pockets to side seam allowances and Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem and of outer neckline band to garment’s neck- their top edges to waist seam allowances sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern. line right sides together with straight on skirt front. Neckline: Pin neckline band pieces to- stitch, aligning shoulder seams on band Front: Construct garment’s front follow- gether in pairs (outer front + back and with midpoint marks on sleeves. Press ing instructions for design 32, except cut inner front + back) and stitch shoulder seam allowances onto neckline band. Pin one 10 cm piece of clear elastic tape for seams. Press shoulder seams on bands bottom edge of inner neckline band to

34. Sloppy Fit jersey pants 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 20-21

CUTTING line. Fold back waistband in half wrong Cut garment pieces from single jersey as sides together and press. Cut elastic into 3 4 indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing two pieces, one of which is 2 cm longer center-front and center-back edges of than the other. Unfold back waistband. pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding Pin elastics to wrong side of one half of 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. back waistband, placing top edge of short- er elastic along foldline on waistband and 2 SEWING laying longer elastic approx. 3 mm below 1 shorter elastic. Machine-baste ends of Construction techniques: Stitch seams elastics to side seam allowances of waist- 6 with serger or with overedge stretch band. Pin front and back right stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch sides together, aligning seamline on front machine-basting with straight stitch. waistband with foldline on back waistband, Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic and stitch side seams. Fold side seam tape for edges of pocket openings on allowances onto front waistband and 5 pants fronts. Measure required length of finish raw inner edge of waistband. tape on pattern and add seam allowances. Pin and stitch outer edge of waistband Machine-baste tapes to wrong side of to pants waist right sides together. Press seam allowances at edges of pocket open- seam allowances gently onto waistband. ings on pants fronts, stretching both tape Fold waistband wrong sides together and MATERIALS and edge of pocket opening slightly as stitch along back waistband between PATTERN PIECES cut - 80-85-90-90-95-100-105-110 cm you sew to make sure that seams will be elastics with straight stretch stitch, forming printed viscose single jersey elastic enough. Fuse interfacing to both casing for upper elastic. Pin inner edge 1 pants front 2 front waistband halves (outer waistband of waistband to pants waist carefully and 2 pants back 2 (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 30% and waistband facing). - 15 cm interfacing, stitch it in place along bottom edge of 3 front waistband 2 Vlieseline® G 785 Pockets and pants: Follow instructions waistband from right side of garment 4 back waistband 1 - 59-61-63-66-68-70-72-74 cm for design 14. with straight stretch stitch, forming casing 5 pocket facing 2 for lower elastic. Pin waistband in position 6 pocket piece 2 elastic, width 25 mm Waistline: Pin front waistband halves and stitch across it through all layers along - 30…35 cm clear elastic tape, right sides together and stitch their top side seamlines. width 5 mm, Framilon® edges together. Understitch seam allow- ances to waistband facing close to seam- PATTERN SHEET E black

35. Hideaway sweatshirt 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 20

1 CUTTING Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch Cut garment pieces from sweatshirt knit 2 as indicated on list of pattern pieces, raglan seams with straight stitch, stretching placing center-front and center-back edges both edges slightly as you sew. Press of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding seams open and topstitch them from 8 mm seam allowances to other edges. right side with 5-thread coverstitch. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. MATERIALS SEWING Finish neckline, bottom edges of sleeves PATTERN PIECES cut and bottom-hem edge with 5-thread - 60-65-65-90-90-95-100-100 cm Construction techniques: Stitch seams coverstitch, stitching 8 mm away from lightweight two-tone viscose with serger or with overedge stretch 1 front 1 raw edge. Trim seam allowances to 5 mm 1 back 1 sweatshirt knit (CV/PES/EL), stitch on regular sewing machine unless along these edges. stretch/recovery 30%, otherwise instructed. Stitch coverstitching 2 sleeve 2 width 140 cm with 5-thread coverstitch or use suitable - contrast-color sewing thread decorative stitch on regular sewing ma- PATTERN SHEET D green chine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). 36. Print Pattern holiday shirt 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 61

5

9 3 4 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut - 60-65-75-75-80-90-90-95 cm 8 turquoise-patterned and 40… 7 1 front 2 50 cm 2 back 1 brown-patterned organic-cotton 6 3 sleeve front 2 fabric (CO) 4 sleeve back 2 - 25 cm interfacing, 2 5 collar 2 Vlieseline® H 180 1 6 button band 2 - 5…7 buttons, ø 12 mm 7 sleeve-edge facing 2 - 10 cm piece of , 8 pocket 1 width 10 mm 9 pocket flap 2 - turquoise topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 PATTERN SHEET F orange

CUTTING bands and upper collar (see areas shaded lowances toward back panel and topstitch close to edge. Turn seam allowance at Cut pocket, pocket flaps, button bands, in grey on small-scale patterns). seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and free edge of facing under and pin and sleeve backs and sleeve-edge facings Pocket: Construct pocket following in- side seams as far as top ends of side stitch turned-under edge to sleeve close from brown-patterned and other gar- structions for design 8 and construct vents. Clip side seam allowance on each to edge. ment pieces from turquoise-patterned pocket flap following instructions for front panel to stitching at top end of side Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on left fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, design 38/Back pockets; sew topstitching vent. Pin and stitch hems at edges of side front edge and sew buttons on right front placing center-back edges of pattern pieces close to edge. vents. Stitch horizontal rows of reinforcing edge, placing top buttonhole close to stitching at top ends of side vents. on fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam Joining: Pin and stitch sleeve fronts to neckline and the rest at regular 7…9 cm allowances to other edges. armhole edges on front panels right sides Button bands and collar: Follow in- intervals. Pin piece of twill tape vertically together. Fold seam allowances toward structions for design 8. Stitch also hem along button band on right front panel, SEWING front panels and topstitch seams. Pin at bottom edge of back panel. placing it a few centimeters above bottom- Construction techniques: Stitch seams sleeve backs to back panel right sides to- Bottom edges of sleeves: Stitch ends hem edge. Cut small rectangular piece of with straight stitch and finish them with gether and stitch raglan seams. Fold seam of each sleeve-edge facing together to brown-patterned fabric, turn its long serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching allowances toward sleeves and topstitch form circles. Pin and stitch facing to bot- edges under and fold piece in half. Place close to edge or seamline. seams. Pin front panels to back panel right tom edge of sleeve right sides together. piece under twill tape, close to its bottom end, and stitch twill tape to garment close Preparation: Fuse interfacing to button sides together and stitch shoulder seams Turn facing to wrong side of sleeve. Press and sleeve overarm seams. Fold seam al- bottom edge of sleeve and topstitch it to edge.

37. Bikes and Stripes T-shirt 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60, 62-63

A

MATERIALS Design A: - 65-65-70-70-75-75-80-80 cm bicycle-patterned, 35…40 cm 4 B striped and 25 cm orange organic- 3 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 5 stretch/recovery 30% Design B: PATTERN PIECES cut -65-65-70-70-75-75-80-80 cm black, 55…75 cm pale-grey and 1 front 1 65-65-70-70-75-75-80-80 cm 1 2 2 back 1 turquoise cotton single jersey 3 sleeve front 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 4 sleeve back 2 - 5 cm orange (A) or turquoise 5 contrast stripe* (B) 2 (B) ribbing (CO/EL) PATTERN SHEET F green

CUTTING single jersey, sleeve fronts and back panel strip from ribbing for finishing neckline. twin needle on regular sewing machine. Design A: Cut front and back from bicy- from turquoise single jersey, and sleeve If you use a binder attachment on your See general instructions for finishing edges cle-patterned single jersey, sleeve backs backs and contrast stripes from pale-grey coverstitch machine to attach the binding, with binding on p. 48. from striped single jersey and sleeve fronts single jersey as indicated on list of pattern cut the strip in the width that fits the Preparation, design B: Turn seam allow- from orange single jersey as indicated on pieces, placing center-front and center- binder. ances at long edges of contrast stripes list of pattern pieces, placing center-front back edges of pattern pieces on fabric to wrong side and pin stripes to front and center-back edges of pattern pieces fold and adding 8 mm seam allowances SEWING panel as marked on pattern. Stitch stripes on fabric fold and adding 8 mm seam al- to all other edges except neckline. *Pat- Construction techniques: Stitch seams in place close to edge with straight stitch. lowances to all other edges except neck- tern piece for contrast stripe includes with serger or with overedge stretch seam allowances. Joining, designs A and B: Follow instruc- line. stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch tions for design 17. Design B: Cut front panel from black Both designs: Cut 3.5 cm wide binding hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with 38. Holiday Bermudas 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 60-62

A 7 A 9 B

5 3 8 11 6

4 PATTERN PIECES cut 10 1 pants front (A) 2 1 pants front (B) 2 2 pants back (A) 2 B MATERIALS 1 2 pants back (B) 2 - 85-85-90-90-100-105-105- 2 3 pocket facing 2 110 cm organic-cotton twill (CO), 4 pocket piece 2 design A, or 75-75-80-85-85-90- 5 back pocket (A) 1 95-100 cm poplin (CO), design B 6 back pocket (B) 2 - 10 cm interfacing, 7 back pocket flap (A/B) 2/4 Vlieseline® H 200 8 leg pocket (A) 2 - zipper, length 8-8-9-9-10- 9 leg pocket flap (A) 2+2 10-11-11 cm 10 waistband 1 - snap fastener or pants hook 11 fly shield 1 and eye - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 PATTERN SHEET F red

CUTTING first one. Stitch bar-tacks (short rows of in pairs (interfaced + non-interfaced) and of zipper placket. Apply zipper to placket, Design A: The design has one back reinforcing stitching) with narrow, short stitch their outer edges. Trim and notch following illustrated instructions for fly- pocket, two leg pockets and knee pleats zigzag, making them 8 mm long. seam allowances, turn flaps right side out, front zipper on p. 48. Stitch bar-tacks on on the leg fronts. Cut garment pieces Preparation: Fuse interfacing to waist- press them flat and topstitch their edges fly as shown in design sketch. Topstitch from cotton twill as indicated on list of band and outer pocket flap pieces, and with two parallel rows of stitching. Serge crotch seam. pattern pieces, placing center-back edge on poplin Bermudas (design B) also to or zigzag open edges of each flap together. Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of of pattern piece for waistband on fabric fly facing (see areas shaded in grey on Pin and stitch flaps above pockets right belt loop strip. Fold strip in three length- fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances small-scale patterns). sides together, placing stitching 15 mm wise and stitch two parallel rows of top- to other edges. Design A, knee pleats: Fold pants front above opening edges of pockets. Fold stitching in the middle of strip. Cut strip Design B: The design has two back right sides together at pattern markings flaps down in position and press their into six equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch pockets and the legs are shorter than on for each knee pleat and stitch pleats as top edges. Stitch bar-tacks at top corners one end of each belt loop to pants waist design A. Trace pattern lines for bottom marked on pattern. Fold pleats into in- of pocket flaps to secure flaps in position, as shown in design sketch, right sides edges of legs observing markings on small- verted pleats on right side of pants front stitching presser-foot width away from together. scale patterns. Note that there are no and topstitch them with two rows of top edges of flaps. Waistline: Fold waistband in half length- knee pleats on design B. Cut garment stitching, placing rows on each side of Designs A and B: Stitch darts on pants wise as marked on pattern and press. Pin pieces from poplin as indicated on list of seamline. Stitch bar-tacks at both ends of backs as marked on pattern. Stitch side and stitch bottom edge of inner (non- pattern pieces, placing center-back edge each pleat. seams, fold seam allowances toward pants interfaced) half of waistband to pants of pattern piece for waistband on fabric Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket backs and topstitch seams. waist edge, with its right side facing wrong fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances facing to edge of pocket opening on pants Design A, leg pockets: Construct leg side of pants. Fold waistband right sides to other edges. front, right sides together. Understitch pockets as follows: Fold pocket right sides together at pants front and stitch its ends. Designs A and B: Cut 3.5 cm x 54 cm seam allowances to pocket facing close together at each bottom corner and stitch Turn ends of waistband right side out. strip from fashion fabric for belt loops. to seamline. Fold pocket facing to wrong corners. Turn pocket right side out and Turn seam allowance at bottom edge of side and topstitch edge of pocket opening topstitch corner seams. Stitch hem at outer half of waistband to wrong side, SEWING with two parallel rows of stitching. Pin opening edge of pocket as marked on pin edge to right side of pants waist and stitch in place close to edge. Edgestitch Construction techniques: Stitch seams pocket piece to pocket facing right sides pattern. Turn seam allowances at other together and stitch bottom of pocket. pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and stitch around waistband at the same time. Turn with straight stitch and finish them with seam allowances at free ends of belt loops serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch with a Machine-baste pocket to waist and side pocket to pants leg, placing it over side seam allowances of pants front. seam as marked on pattern. Stitch bar- to wrong side and stitch ends to top edge single row of stitching placed close to of waistband. edge or seamline unless otherwise in- Back pockets: Construct pockets fol- tacks at top corners of leg pockets. Con- structed. Where topstitching with two lowing instructions for design 8. Stitch struct leg pocket flaps in the same way Finishing: Fold up, pin and stitch hems parallel rows of stitching is required, place pockets to pants backs as marked on as back pocket flaps. at bottom edges of legs as marked on the first row close to edge or seamline pattern with two parallel rows of stitching. Joining: Pin and stitch leg inseams. Stitch pattern. Attach snap fastener or pants and the second row 7 mm away from the Pin pocket flap pieces right sides together crotch seam from back waist to bottom hook and eye to waistband as marked on pattern.

BIAS BINDING design 19 xx cm

xx cm 39. Sporty Stripes T-shirt 46-48-50-52-54-56 (men’s sizes) Pages 62-63 5

Note! 3 You’ll find the men’s size chart on p. 47. 1 2

CUTTING SEWING 4 Cut front panel from pale-grey single Construction techniques: Stitch seams jersey, sleeve fronts, back panel and con- with serger or with overedge stretch trast stripes from black single jersey and stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch sleeve backs from turquoise single jersey hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with as indicated on list of pattern pieces, twin needle on regular sewing machine. placing center-front and center-back edges See general instructions for finishing edges PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS of pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding with binding on p. 48. 1 front 1 - 75-75-75-80-80-80 cm 8 mm seam allowances to all other edges Preparation: Turn seam allowances at black, 75-75-75-80-80-80 cm except neckline. *Pattern piece for con- long edges of contrast stripes to wrong 2 back 1 pale-grey and 40-45-45-45-45- trast stripe includes seam allowances. side and pin stripes to front panel as 3 sleeve front 2 50 cm turquoise Cut 4.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing marked on pattern. Stitch stripes in place 4 sleeve back 2 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), for finishing neckline. If you use a binder close to edge with straight stitch. 5 contrast stripe* 2 stretch/recovery 30% attachment on your coverstitch machine Joining: Follow instructions for design - 5 cm black ribbing (CO/EL) to attach the binding, cut the strip in the 17. PATTERN SHEET blue width that fits the binder. F

40. Casual Holiday Bermudas 46-48-50-52-54-56 (men’s sizes) Pages 62-63

10 13 12 Note! You’ll find the men’s size chart on p. 47. 9 5 PATTERN PIECES cut 8 4 6 1 pants front 2 2 back yoke 2 7 3 pants back 2 MATERIALS 4 pocket corner piece 2 11 2 5 pocket facing 2 - 110-115-115-120-130-135 cm 6 pocket 2 organic-cotton twill (CO) 7 back pocket 1 - tightly-woven poplin for pocket 1 3 8 back pocket flap 2 bags (CO) 9 leg pocket 2 - 20 cm interfacing, 10 leg pocket flap 2+2 Vlieseline® H 200 11 waistband 1 - metal pants zipper, length 14-14- 12 fly facing 1 15-15-16-16 cm 13 fly shield 1 - button, ø 20 mm - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 PATTERN SHEET F black

CUTTING reinforcing stitching) with narrow, short stitch pocket bag to edge of pocket open- seam from back waist to bottom of zipper Cut pocket bags from poplin and other zigzag, making them 8 mm long. ing on pants front, right sides together. placket. Stitch fly facing to edge of zipper garment pieces from twill as indicated on Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to waistband Understitch seam allowances to pocket placket on left pants front right sides list of pattern pieces, placing center-back and outer pocket flap pieces (see areas facing close to seamline. Fold pocket bag together. Understitch seam allowances edge of pattern piece for waistband on shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). to wrong side and topstitch edge of pock- to fly facing. Apply zipper to placket, fol- et opening with two parallel rows stitch- lowing illustrated instructions for fly-front fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- Back pocket: Construct pocket follow- ances to other edges. ing. Fold pocket bag right sides together zipper on p. 48. Stitch bar-tacks on fly as ing instructions for design 8 and stitch it and stitch bottom of pocket. Machine- shown in design sketch. Topstitch crotch Cut 3.5 cm x 60 cm strip from twill for to right pants back as marked on pattern baste pocket to waist and side seam al- seam. belt loops. with two parallel rows of stitching. Con- lowances of pants front. struct back pocket flap following instruc- Belt loops, Waistline: Follow instruc- SEWING tions for design 38/Back pockets. Joining: Pin and stitch back yokes to tions for design 38. pants backs right sides together. Fold Construction techniques: Stitch seams Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket Finishing: Fold up, pin and stitch hems seam allowances toward pants backs and at bottom edges of legs as marked on with straight stitch and finish them with facing to pocket bag right sides together. topstitch yoke seams with two parallel serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch with a Fold seam allowances toward facing and pattern. Stitch buttonhole and sew button rows of stitching. Pin pants fronts and on waistband as marked on pattern. single row of single stitching placed close topstitch seam. Press seam allowance at backs right sides together and stitch side to edge or seamline unless otherwise diagonal edge of pocket corner piece to seams. Fold seam allowances toward pants instructed. Where topstitching with two wrong side, lay corner piece on top of backs and topstitch seams. Construct parallel rows of stitching is required, place pocket bag and pin and stitch it in place leg pockets following instructions for the first row close to edge or seamline along turned-under edge. At the same design 38. and the second row 8 mm away from the time, machine-baste corner piece to side first one. Stitch bar-tacks (short rows of and waist edges of pocket bag. Pin and Pin and stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch SIZE CHARTS AND MEASURING

WOMEN Height 168 ± 4 cm European sizes, regular fit

Size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 1. Bust 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 2. Hip 90 93 96 99 102 106 110 115 120 125 3. Waist 64 67 70 74 78 82 86 91 97 103 4. Outseam length 106 106 106 107 107 107 107 107 108 108 5. Shoulder width 13.0 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.5 13.7 13.9 14.2 14.4 14.6 6. Arm length 59.3 59.7 60 60.2 60.4 60.6 60.8 61 61.2 61.4 7. Back width 33.9 34.7 35.6 36.5 37.6 38.6 39.6 40.8 42.0 43.2 8. Upper arm circ. 24.9 26.2 27.5 28.8 30.1 31.4 32.8 34.2 35.6 37 9. Back waist length 40.4 40.6 40.9 41.1 41.3 41.5 41.7 41.9 42.1 42.3

TAKING ­between the tape and your neck. The the arms across the full and ure running over the elbow. Take the THE MEASUREMENTS tape will thus be set at the base of across the shoulder blades. measurement with the arm slight- your neck. ly bent. It is hard to take your own meas- Waist urements and therefore you need a For taking the measurements, you Back waist length friend to assist you. It is advisable to should stand upright with a relaxed Measure round the waist without the take the measurements in front of a posture with arms hanging free at the fi ed waistline tape. Measure from the base of the neck to the waist, to the lower edge of the mirror so that you can also see the sides. The measurements are taken on Hip position of the tape measure at the top of underwear (panties and a light- fi ed waistline tape. back. You will need a tape measure, a weight camisole or a bra) close to the Measure horizontally round the seat pen and paper. You can print a meas- body, yet not too tight. (usually the fullest part of the hip). urement chart out from our website The measurements in the size chart at www.ottobredesign.com. Height Outseam length are taken on the body. The pat- Measure the distance from the waist- terns include the necessary allow­ You will also need two fi ed tapes, Stand up with your back and heels ances for ease of movement. The one round the waist and the other against a wall and let your assistant line to the floor (measure from the lower edge of the waistline tape). patterns in the magazine have been round the neck. You can make the make a mark on the wall at the top designed for a person with a height tapes from a 4 cm wide strip of cot- of your head, using a straight angle (e.g. a book). Your height is the dis- Shoulder width of 164-172 cm. If you are consider- ton fabric by folding and pressing it in ably shorter or taller, make the nec- three and by cutting it into required tance measured from the floor to the Measure the distance from the base essary alterations to the patterns be- lengths. marking. of the neck to the point of the shoul- fore cutting the garment pieces out. der. Place the waistline tape exactly hori­ Bust Points to be checked are the center- ­ zontally round your waist and se- Sleeve length back length of a blouse or top as well Measure horizontally round the body as the sleeve and leg length. cure it firm y with a safety pin. Place with the tape measure running under the other tape round your neck so Measure from the point of the shoul- that you can easily slide your finge der to the wrist, with the tape meas-

MEN Height 180 ± 4 cm European sizes, regular fit

Size 46 48 50 52 54 56 1. Chest 92 96 100 104 108 112 2. Hip 94 98 102 106 110 114 3. Waist 80 84 88 92 96 100 4. Outseam length 112 112 112 112 112 112 5. Shoulder width 14 14.3 14.6 14.9 15.2 15.5 6. Arm length 64 64 64 64 65 65 7. Back waist length 44.4 44.7 45 45.3 45.6 45.9 8. Neck 39 40 41 42 43 44

Take a man’s measurements in the cording to the chest measurement. Use same way as a woman’s measurements the hip measurement to choose the and compare them with the measure- pattern size for pants and adjust the ments given in the size chart. Choose pattern at the waist if necessary. the pattern size for shirts and tops ac-

© The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy, Rantavitikantie 33, FI-96300 Rovaniemi, Finland. OTTOBRE design® or Studio ­Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses esulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, Rovaniemi, Finland 47 COLLAR Designs 24, 26

3 4

1 2

10 mm

FLY-FRONT ZIPPER Designs 23, 38, 40

The zipper application is for boys’ shield right side out and serge or and stitch fly shield under plac et edge. (6. Stitch bar- using short zigzag pants. For girls’ pants, interchange left zigzag raw long edges together. 4. Pin the other zipper tape to fl stitch at bottom of placket, catching and right in the instructions. Stitch zipper tape to fly shield facing from wrong side, open zipper fly shield in stitching. 1. Construct fly shield Fold fly shield 2. Finish raw edges of zipper placket. and stitch it in place. piece in half, right sides together, and 3. Fold seam allowance on narrower 5. Topstitch fly facing to garments front. stitch bottom edges together. Turn edge of zipper placket to wrong side. Pin Fold fly shield out of the w y as you sew.

EDGE FINISH WITH KNIT BINDING The binding can be cut either from 2. Determine the length of the binding. Stitch one edge of binding to garment’s ribbing or from the same knit as the Binding cut from the knit used for edge, rights sides together, aligning rest of the garment. The most suitable the actual garment quarter marks and stretching binding knits are those that do not curl, such (stretch/recovery 20-30%): along curved portions of garment’s as interlock knit or rib knit. edge. Use straight stitch on a regular • length of binding = 0.85 x length of sewing machine, or alternatively stitch The binding can be stitched to the the edge to be finished X cm garment using a binder attachment on on a serger. Stitching I. a serger. When using a binder, the Binding cut from ribbing Fold the other edge of binding over binding is cut in the width specified (stretch/recovery 40-50%): to wrong side of garment’s edge and by the serger instructions. The exact • length of binding = 0.70 x length of topstitch binding with twin needle (or cut length of the binding cannot be the edge to be finished X cm with 3-thread coverstitch) from right specified in advance and ou’ll find the Note! As the elasticity of different side close to edge. best technique for applying the binding knits tends to vary, the length of Stitching II. by experimenting. The edge finish will the binding should be checked by Neaten edge of binding on wrong side be neat and look very professional. experimenting on a piece of scrap of garment by carefully trimming off If you want to attach the binding on fabric before applying the binding to excess seam allowance. a regular sewing machine, use the the garment. Note! When finishing the neckline following method. Cut the binding in the width of 3.5 cm of a T-shirt with knit binding, stretch if the finished width of the binding is both the neck edge and the binding as 1. Measure the length of the edge to supposed to be 10-12 mm. you sew in order to produce an elastic be finished (=X cm) on the pattern 3. Applying the binding: seam. piece. Mark both binding and edge to be finished into qua ters.

48 OTTOBRE design® 3/2015 Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy 2015