Marfa 51 Midland 53 Odessa 55 Ozona 56 Presidio 60 Terlingua/Study Butte 62 Toyahvale/Balmorhea 63 Van Horn

Home , Alpine Cowboys, Balmorhea State Park, Battle of Ojinaga, Bush Mountain (Texas), Emory Peak, Gringo Honeymoon

Contents BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE

8 Welcome to the Guide 10 Regional Map 12 Calendar of Events 15 National & State Parks Big Bend National Park Guadalupe Mountains National Park City Listings 25 Alpine 32 El Paso 35 Fort Davis 38 Fort Stockton 42 Lajitas 44 Marathon 47 Marfa 51 Midland 53 Odessa 55 Ozona 56 Presidio 60 Terlingua/Study Butte 62 Toyahvale/Balmorhea 63 Van Horn

64 Features Photography in the Big Bend featuring James Evans Texas Mountain Trail 72 Last Look GREG HILLJE

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 7 Publisher’s Letter

THANK YOU for picking up a copy of the 2014/15 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the Contributors second year that I’ve had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published once a year since 1984, which is pretty impressive! I’d like to thank Beth James Evans Nobles and Ron Sanders with the Texas Mountain Trail for their commitment to the travel guide and for Originally from West Virginia, James Evans has been the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I love based in Marathon for 25 years, and is perhaps the to travel throughout the area, and even before I became most well known photographer of the Big Bend the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital region. Two very popular books showcase his art- information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for any- istry: Big Bend Pictures and Crazy from the Heat. In one wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll an Austin American-Statesman, Evans explains the find information on various parks (state and national), as appeal of the region. “The vastness of it all, the free- well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, there is a feature dom you feel when you’re in the parl ... in a week I about photography in the Big Bend. One of the main subjects of this story is the renowned was sold.” photographer, James Evans, who is based in Marathon. I remember on one of my very first trips to the region I met James, who told me that he decided to move to the region on his third trip to the area. It only took me a couple more trips to decide to establish a residence in Alpine. The allure of the Big Bend region is strong and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas. We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in addition I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, Martha Gazella- Taylor, who was born and raised in Odessa and went to Permian High School. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the publisher and founder of Texas Music magazine, I am currently working with the City of Alpine as tourism director. I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon and Marfa (our music festival is the last weekend of July each year). I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the 2014/15 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails! — Stewart Ramser Martha Gazella-Taylor

Martha Gazella- Taylor is the A MESSAGE FROM designer for the Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Guide. She hails Texas Mountain Trail from Odessa, the “big city” of West WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West Texas. She has Texas, to our quiet communities, to our colorful sunsets since moved, and to our frontier! Our Texas Mountain Trail non- gone to school , profit organization is proud to present the latest edition started a family and created a graphic design busi- of the Big Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide with ness in Austin. Texas. Ironically it wasn’t until she Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most moved to Austin — with it’s religious appreciation out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out of fitness and the outdoors — that she found her- to travelers with information about far West Texas, self trekking back to Far West Texas to see for the encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our moun- first time what the parks had to offer. She has been tains. We’ve also worked with community leaders here hooked ever since. to make the region more visitor-friendly by developing programs like the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail and our cycle-friendly hotels and heritage bike routes. Let us know what you think of the Guide, and ways we can make your stay more enjoyable. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure and have the time of your life! — Beth Nobles

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

8 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MAY LEAL, COURTESY JIM GLENDINNING, COURTESY JESSICA LUTZ, COURTESY BETH NOBLES

Map 385 115 349 137 Must 176 ang MARTIN D ra w Shafter 385 ANDREWS 118 Andrews 176 Stillwell 115 67 Ranch 1 0 54 NEW MEXICO 349 20 NEW MEXICO 128 EL PASO Dell City 180 Stanton 87 163 GUADALUPE 62 Midland Presidio • MOUNTAINS 18 158 62 180 NATIONAL PARK Red Blu Nor Reservoir th Concho ElEl Paso Paso 302 302 158 GLASSCOCK LOVING Kermit Riv 158 er BIG BEND RANCH SoSocorroccorro WINKLER ECTOR Odessa Sterling City 302 Garden STATE PARK Heath BIG SanSan Elizario Elizario City 87 Canyon CULBERSON Wink Study BEND 20 HUDSPETH Pe nwell MIDLAND 54 20 Butte 115 T e rlingua NATIONAL 1 1 1 1 STERLING PARK REEVES WARD Monahans 349 UPTON 137 163 Lajitas Chisos Pe cos REAGAN ARD TIME Basin Pe cos River ARD TIME Crane 329 AND Lake Castolon Rio Grande AND 17 T o yah 1 0 CRANE 329 Village AIN ST 20 385 Rankin Sierra Blanca Imperial Big Lake

MOUNT Reservoir CENTRAL ST Kent Rio Gr McCamey ah Creek 18 67 1 0 y Balmorhea ande To 163 Van Horn 67 349 385 Toyahvale F o rt Buckhorn Dr MEXICO Balmorhea Sto c kto n MEXICO Lake Iraan 1 0 1 9 0 1 9 0 aw JEFF DAVIS 349 137 17 90 PECOS 166 She eld Ozona 277 83 377 Alpine Fo rt Davis 67 BREWSTER KIMBLE 505 285 Sonora r 118 North Llano Rive 385 r 1 0 Junction 17 CROCKETT Alpine TERRELL 163 SUTTON

Marfa evils Rive 118 Ko kernot 67 349 Pe Telegraph Park cos Rive D 90 223 South Llano 377 83 1 0 281 0 r River Marathon 90 55 VAL VERDE 118 Sanderson 223

Dryden EDWARDS Sul Ross State W 41 277 University

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e 67 Baines Ranch r Park RioRio Grande Grande 55 67

C o m s tock 90 PresidioPresidio 277

377 1 mile BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK BIG Heath Amistad Del BEND Study Canyon International Rio Sycamore T e rlingua Butte NATIONAL Reservoir Creek PARK Bracketville LajitasLajitas Chisos Ciudad 90 Basin AcuñaAcuña 277 Castolon Rio GrandeGrande KINNEY VVillageillage 131 MAVERICK

118 AND TEXAS Eagle Pass Piedras 118 MOUNTAINS 277 Fo rt Davis Negras National TRAVEL GUIDE Historic 17 Site 118 PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS EDITOR: Tom Buckley AND EX-OFFICIO MEMBERS DESIGN: Martha Gazella-Taylor Ron Sanders — Forever Resorts, Alpine Rio Grande ADVERTISING DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Rebecca Diaz — Hyatt Place, El Paso 17 118 Lisa Reiley David Elkowitz — Big Bend National Park 1 mile Melanie Gentry — Dell City CONTRIBUTORS: James Evans, Beth Nobles David Gibson — Sul Ross State University, Alpine PHOTOGRAPHERS: Beth Nobles, James, Evans, Will Van Linda Hedges — TPWD Fo rt Stockton Overbeek courtesy Texas Department of Transportation, Elizabeth Jackson — Museum of the Big Bend, J. Griffis Smith courtesy Texas Department of Alpine 18

67 Marathon Transportation Michael Lewis — El Paso County Historical 285 1 0

Fo rt Stockton Commission, El Paso High School 1 0

285 In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas Chelsie Melendez — El Paso Convention and Visitors 90 67

1 0 90 385 67 67 385 285 385 1 0 385 90 reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both Bureau, El Paso 90 COVER PHOTO: James Evans 194 the United States and Mexican67 governments. Consider John Morlock — Fort Davis National Historic Site 285 James Rooney Memorial 67 Park making a trip there yourself! While a travel advisory is Travis Roberts —Brewster County Historical Commission, 385 67 385

Pat 1 mile 67 Taylor in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Marathon The Big Bend Travel Guide is licensedField

194 285 385 Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy Drew Stuart —Hudspeth County Herald and Dell Valley for publication by the Texas Mountain 1 mile an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, support- Review, Dell City Trail. © 2014 All rights reserved. ive law enforcement presence. Jennifer Turner — Mountain Trails Lodge, Fort Davis M a rfa

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CALENDAR of events BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS AREA • SUMMER 2015–SPRING 2015

viva terlingua SEPTEMBER 2014 JULY 2014 Terlingua and Lajitas www.facebook.com/ “Coolest” 4th of July Cyclefest vivaterlinguafest Celebration Prude Ranch 2014 Dates: Aug. 14–17 Downtown Fort Davis Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com www.pbbatx.com See p. 36 for details Davis Mountains Humming- bird Festival See p. 36 for details Limpia Hotel & various locations FIRECRACKER FANDANGO Fort Davis Fort Davis Frontier and Downtown Odessa Mule Days www.fortdavis.com www.odessacvb.com Downtown Fort Davis 2014 Dates: Aug. 21–23 2014 Date: July 4 Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com Permian Basin Gun Show Mustang and Cowboy Chili 2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27 Cook-off Ector County Coliseum Odessa Marathon Motel Trans-Pecos Festival www.ectorcountycoliseum.org Marathon El Cosmico 2014 Dates: Aug. 22–24 Dude of the Dead Festival is held Arts & Crafts Fair www.marathontexas.com Marfa in Presidio in October. Fort Davis 2014 Dates: July 4–7; www.elcosmico.com Rock the Desert www.fortdavis.com/calendar. See p. 46 for details 2014 Dates: Sept. 25–28 RTD Festival Field html See p. 48 for details Tall City Blues Fest Midland 2014 Date: Nov. 29 www.rockthedesert.com CAF Airsho Centennial Plaza National Public Lands Day 2014 Dates: Aug. 7–9 CAF Headquarters Cowboy Social Midland Big Bend National Park Midland International Airport Ritchey Building www.tallcitybluesfest.com www.publiclandsday.org Plaza Classic Film Festival www.airsho.org Marathon 2014 Dates: July 25–27 2014 Date: Sept. 27 Various Venues 2014 Dates: Oct. 11–12 www.marathontexas.com See p. 19 for details Viva Big Bend El Paso 2014 Dates: First Sunday Music Festival www.plazaclassic.com Dude of the Dead Music in November Permian Basin Fair Festival Multiple venues 2014 Dates: Aug. 7–17 See p. 46 for details Ector County Coliseum Presidio Drag Race Track Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Odessa Presidio Marfa and Lajitas Marfa Lights Festival Terlingua International www.permianbasinfair.com www.dudeofthedead.net www.vivabigbend.com County Courthouse Chili Championship 2014 Dates: Sept. 5–13 2014 Dates: Oct. 24–26 2014 Dates: July 22–27; Marfa Rancho CASI de los Chisos See ad on p. 49 www.visitmarfa.com www.chili.org Permian Basin Marathon 2 Marathon www.casichili.net 2014 Dates: Labor Day Weekend Intertribal Powwow See p. 48 for details Marathon, Fort Stockton 2014 Date: Nov. 1 (Main Event) AUGUST 2014 Odessa College Sports Center www.marathon2marathon.net Odessa 2014 Date: Oct. 25 Old Fort Days www.odessacvb.net Big Bend Balloon Bash See p. 46 for details Trans-Pecos Big Buck Fort Davis National Historic Site 2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27 Alpine-Casparis Airport Fort Davis Tournament Alpine ride4trails Van Horn Convention Center & www.fortdavis.com Septemberfest www.bigbendballoonbash.com 2014 Date: Labor Day Weekend Big Bend Resort & Adventures Visitors Bureau 2014 Dates: Aug. 30–31, Sept. 1 Museum of the Southwest Study Butte Van Horn See p. 28 for details Midland www.ride4trails.com www.transpecosbigbuck.com www.museumsw.org 2014 Dates: Oct. 17–18 2014 Date: TBA Big Bend Ranch Rodeo First weekend after Labor Day 2014 Dates: Sept. 5–7 S.A.L.E. Arena, Sul Ross University NOVEMBER 2014 Alpine West Fest www.bigbendranchrodeo.com The annual Big Bend Balloon Artwalk 2014 Dates: Aug. 8–9 Bash is held each year in Post Park Multiple venues See p. 28 for details Alpine on Labor Day weekend. Marathon www.marathontexas.com/ Alpine 2014 Dates: Sept. 20–21 www.artwalkalpine.com Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx See p. 46 for details 2014 Dates: Nov. 21–22 See p. 27 for details FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, STEWART RAMSER Wild West ChilE Fest Hudspeth County Fairgrounds Dell City www.wildwestchilefest.com Dates 2014: TBA OCTOBER 2014

Chinati Weekend Chinati Marfa www.chinati.org 2014 Dates: TBA See p. 48 for details

12 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB JANUARY 2015 JANUARY DECEMBER 2014 FEBRUARY 2015 W G details 27 p. for See 2015 27–28 Feb. Dates: www.texascowboypoetry.com Alpine University State Ross Sul T 2015 6–8 Feb. Dates: www.midessaboatshow.net Odessa Coliseum County Ector S Mi 2015 Date: Feb. 22 www.elpasomarathon.org Paso El E 2015 2–10 Jan. Dates: www.sandhillsssr.com Coliseum County Ector S 2015 TBA Dates: wordpress.com http://puzzlerendurance. Paso El E 2014 TBA Date: (432) 283-2050 Van Horn Capitan El Hotel P 2014 Date: Dec. 27 www.sunbowl.org Paso El S H 132014 Dec. Dates: www.fortdavis.com Davis Fort Conservancy Memorial Square & Nature F details for 46 p. See 6 2014 :December Dates www.marathontexas.com Marathon Main Street Fi Li RODEO e i ront &G port S Bowl un andh l P l P D ecan atheri yunda C ghted N de esta eekend Boat dessa x attracts car lovers from all over. all from lovers car attracts Race Road Open Bend Big The C as M aso P aso

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MARCH 2015MARCH APRIL 2015APRIL MAY 2015 T details 39 p. for See 22–252015 April Dates: www.bborr.com Fort Stockton, Sanderson B April through runs Exhibit 17–182015 April Dates: (opening) www.sulross.edu/museum Alpine campus University State Ross Sul Museum of the Big Bend on T 2015 TBA Dates: www.fortdavis.com Mountains. through the picturesque Davis A TXRA sanctioned bike race H 2015 TBA Dates: blogspot.com www.franklinmountains. Paso El Archaeology of Museum F 2015 TBA Dates: www.presidiotx.us/arts Presidio venues Multiple P See p. 48 for details for 48 p. See 2015 TBA Dates: www.ballroommarfa.org Marfa Marfa Ballroom Ballroom 2015 TBA Dates: www.huecorodeo.com Paso El Park State Tanks Hueco H 2015 TBA Date: www.visitelpaso.com Elizario San Plaza Elizario San Fi 2015 TBA Date: www..terlinguagreenscene.com Terlingua Community garden P erl rapp i rankl res i opp i R ueco ammerfest rst O g Bend i i T ngua d es i i T of ngs hanksg o A R ock C n ele M W R pen F rts

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Alpine in late February. late in Alpine in University State Ross Sul of pus See p. 48 for details for 48 p. See weekend 2015 Dates: Memorial Day www.padresmarfa.com Marfa Padre’s P 2015 TBA Dates: www.neondesertmusicfestival.com Paso El Park Square Cleveland N 2015 TBA Dates: events/great-outdoors-expo www.texaspecostrail.com/ Midland Horseshoe Midland The G 2015 TBA Dates: www.fortdavis.com Davis Fort Kelly Outdoor Theatre Ci 2015 1–3 May Dates: www.myfiestawesttexas.com Odessa Coliseum County Ector Fi 2015 TBA Dates: www.cinemarfa.org Marfa venues Multiple Ci 2015 TBA Dates: www.thecrudefest.com Odessa and Midland Between Texas Ranch of Star C Bo adre F rude O reat D eon W esta M de nco nemarfa xi Gathering is held on the cam the on held is Gathering Poetry Cowboy Texas The Xxxxxxxxxxxx ng ’ s M esert T

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i val - JUNE 2015JUNE M July early or 2015 June Late Dates: www.marfafilmfestival.com Marfa Various Venues M 2015 7–9 May Dates: www.texasthunderfest.com Gardendale Avenue Chinaberry North Texas Thunder Music Festival F T 2015 TBA Dates: www.pecosrodeo.com Pecos Arena Jackson Buck W 2015 TBA Dates: www.sulross.edu/tobb Alpine Sul Ross State University S 2015 TBA Dates: www.midlandhcc.com Midland Centennial Plaza e est T ummer e Fi arfa P the of est x x-T Xxxxxxxxxx T as i val e x F M hunder F lm P heatre am i est ly Fi R ecos i val us esta rogram i odeo c

MUSIC SERIES MUSIC w 2015 Dates: TBA www.countyline.com Paso El BBQ Line State the at Line County F C 2015 TBA Dates: elpasolive.com/alfresco_fridays Paso El Plaza Festival Arts A 2015 TBA Dates: (432) 283-2050 Van Horn Downtown F 2015 TBA Dates: www.visitelpaso.com Paso El Amphitheatre McKelligon Canyon C 2015 Dates: TBA www.annieriggsmuseum.org Stockton Fort Museum Riggs Annie S 2015 TBA Dates: www.mainstreetodessa.com Odessa Park Heritage Noel H www.texasmountaintrail.com. at menu dropdown Partners the on function Event” an “Suggest the Use website. Trail Mountain Texas the on charge of free events your list can you organizers, Events www.texasmountaintrail.com. visit region, the in events of listing acomplete For BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM M ree ront P the off ummer ounty C ool lfresco ot i C th S ummer i Ni anyon M ool us D er Li i ne ! Fr c S ays us Ni er

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BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK Presidio The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged National & State terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.” Parks Presidio (432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch

BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER Terlingua/Lajitas The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998).

Lajitas (432) 424-3327 www. tpwd.state.tx.us/bartonwarnock

DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Fort Davis Davis Mountains State Park, 2,708.9 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park HE STATE PARKS and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas Moun- was deeded to the Texas Parks and tains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made waters to lofty mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Des- by the Civilian Conservation Corps in ert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something 1933; the park has been open to the for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments public since the late 1930s, and formal T for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, campground facilities were added cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive program- in 1967. ming or peace and quiet. Please stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did! CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 15 The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began around 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jef- ferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post - Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were

declared a National Historic Site, and a FORT LEATON STATE vast restoration/preservation program HISTORIC SITE was initiated by the National Park Presidio Service. Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly Fort Davis (432) 426-3337 www. restored and furnished rooms, plus tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/davis- exhibits on the region’s history: from mountains 15th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to BALMORHEA STATE PARK the present. The fort also serves as the Toyahvale western entrance for Big Bend Ranch At 77,053 square feet, San Solomon State Park. Spring is the focal point of Balmorhea State Park. Twenty-two to 28 million gal- Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. lons of crystalline water flow from the TEXAS STATE PARK PASS VISIT: WWW.TPWD.STATE.TX.US/ 170 (432) 229-3613 spring each day. Visitors to Balmorhea The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual STATE-PARKS/ www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleatonw State Park enjoy swims in the Civilian pass that offers many special benefits TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE Conservation Corps-constructed to members. As a member, you and OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS impoundment and, if staying overnight, your guests enjoy unlimited visits to ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS. may choose to relax in one of the his- Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas toric rooms at San Solomon Courts. and State Historic Sites without pay- ing the daily entrance fees. The cost is Toyahvale (432) 375-2370 $70 for a one-card membership. Learn (512) 389-8900 (reservations) more at: www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spd- est/parkinfo/passes/

www.tpwd.state.tx.us/balmorhea FROM LEFT: COURTESY DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK, COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION

16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM ENTRANCE FEES Vehicle: $20 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance. Individual: $10 for a 7-day pass. 15 years and younger are free of charge. Annual Pass: $40 – Allows unlimited entry for one year from month of purchase.

CAMPGROUND FEES The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $14. Individual back-country campsites require a $10 permit, which can only be acquired at one of the park’s visitor centers in person. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as inter- agency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251. BIG BEND

National Park FUN FACT p In 1964, Apollo astronauts came to Big Encompassing more than 800,000 acres of mountain cliffs, desert Bend to study volcanic geology expanses and towering river canyons, Big Bend National Park so that they could is the king of Texas’ national public areas. identify the geologic structures and processes that they might see on the ANY FEATURES SET Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, in- moon. cluding the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range – the Chisos – within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico border where outstanding examples of Chihuahan Desert topography and ecology M beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world. STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 17 A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geo- habbed porch at the lodge serving outdoor meals logical marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures is ready to serve day visitors and campers alike. and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life With over 150 miles of back-country dirt across its dramatic range of elevations. From its roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village mountain biking and horseback riding are all to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents popular options for exploring the park. Some impressive changes in climate, with tempera- of the more popular hikes include the Win- tures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees dow View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is warmer than in the mountains. wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain Desert opportunities abound. Numerous sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which trails — from short and very well developed to offers some of the best birding in the region; and long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional the Chihuahan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout views. Back-country roads are available with pri- Wells, featuring native plant life identified along vate back-country camping sites available for both this half-mile path. drive-in and backpacking options with a permit. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that bor- Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportu- der the park wind through the Santa Elena, nities for solitude are many. Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft or kayak is an unforgettable way to en- counter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Lei- CHOOSE YOUR OWN surely half-day floats to multi-day camping trips ADVENTURE are available. Santa Elena is the most popular The Chisos Mountains are high-elevation hik- outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon ing, with trails for all skill levels. The famed walls. Boquillas is a two-night/three-day trip on South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an average but great for families with its Class II or unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear less rapids at average water levels and many side day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in hiking opportunities. the park and some of the largest of their species There are three developed campgrounds in the country. Emory Peak Trail has just un- in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio dergone a complete reroute and has dramatic new Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood views of both the south and north sides of the Campground, all with water, restrooms and mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the Park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in arrival of the Colima Warbler, a bird found only the park with full hookups. Public showers and in the Chisos Mountains in the United States. laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy develop- Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a ment boosts, including a newly rehabbed camp- first come/first served basis and fill up quickly in ground with much improved facilities and new, March, April and during the holiday season. night sky-friendly lighting. Also, a newly re- STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET

18 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM BOQUILLAS, MEXICO celebration of our country’s public lands. Held on Sept. 25. There will be volunteer opportu- The Boquillas Border Crossing has been re-opened the last weekend of September, the event brings nities, special ranger talks and social events to after being closed for over ten years. This “pedes- thousands of people to parks across the country. mark this special occasion. Check website for trian only” crossing between the United States and Friends of Big Bend National Park will be host- details. www.bigbendfriends.org Mexico adds a new layer of fun and adventure to a ing a special weekend of volunteerism and fun Big Bend National Park visit. The crossing offers a unique opportunity to ride across the river in a row “GRINGO HONEYMOON”: boat, or, if the water is low enough, wade across the Boquillas is the Mexican town which Rio Grande (Check with officials for river condi- inspired the famous Robert Earl Keen tions)! Current posted hours to re-enter the US are song. You can visit Boquillas via Big 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday (bring Bend National Park . your passport). Learn more at www.discoverboquillas.com. PLAN YOUR TRIP A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15–Apr. 15. Call 877-444-6777 or reserve online at www.reserveusa.com. Visit www.nps.gov/ bibe or call 432.477.2251 for more information.

For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to www.visitbigbend.com, the most complete refer- ence source for all things Greater Big Bend and Brewster County. The mobile tag at the bottom of this page will also take you there. EVENTS NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER 28, 2013 National Public Lands Day is a nationwide STEWART RAMSER

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Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Gua- dalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, N.M., to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in North America, after those of White Sands National Monu- ment. Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Moun- tains, is part of an ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea 260-270 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Gua- dalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoe-shaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational vid- eos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails. Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Ranch Schoolhouse, Wil- liams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encamp- ments or the Pinery Butterfield Guadalupe Mountains Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur National Park along the hiking trails, taking in views of everything from harsh .... could easily be described as one of America’s desert landscapes to lush stream- side woodlands, rich in oaks and best-kept secrets. maples. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow Big- tooth Maples in McKittrick Can- OCATED NORTH of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 yon, which peaks in late October. Families with children will find acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger and most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the Junior Paleontologist programs park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guada- chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website provides lupe Mountains, to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,749 feet, L a schedule of park activities and visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With updates on fall color showings to 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area aid travelers in planning their vis- in the state of Texas. its. www.nps.gov/gumo/. COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

22 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM EXPLORE THE better protection from raids and provide better dashboard. GUADALUPES access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon Before you venture into the back country or A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 may visit Pratt Cabin. before you leave to go back home, make sure to miles of trails, meandering through woodland Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as for adventure can visit the historic Williams Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with about the park, maps or postcards. The park’s the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Be- non-profit cooperating association partner, the Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Can- fore traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Carlsbad Caverns Guadalupe Mountains Asso- yon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Visitor Center to check out a gate key and be ciation, supports programs at the park from rev- Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog enues at the bookstore. If you Canyon and the distinctive El would like to spend more time Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet helping the park directly, in- above sea level, is an imposing quire about the park’s Volun- sentinel at the west end of the teers In Parks (VIP) program. Guadalupes). There are two short, easy For more information about hikes — the 0.4-mile Manza- Guadalupe Mountains National nita Spring Trail or the Pinery Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/ Trail (0.67 miles) — both of or call 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 which are paved and wheelchair for updated information. accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenu- ous trails, such as the Guada- lupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies. Hikers can take part in FEES AND PASSES the free Peak Fitness Challenge Guadalupe Mountains by taking to the trails, www. National Park annual geobetty.com/peak. passes are $20 for each im- Sixty percent of the park’s mediate family. Seven-day trails are available for horseback permits are available at a riding, though visitors must rate of $5 per adult. Chil- dren under age 16 are free. bring their own stock. Either by Camping permits are $8 foot or horse, the park is a place per site. Campers should to discover fossils and explore pay cash at the self-reg- geologic and human history, istration board near the observe native wildlife, view restroom or pay by credit colorful wildflowers, capture card at the Pine Springs great photos, create paintings or Visitors Center. America simply gaze into the wondrous, the Beautiful Annual star-filled night sky. Passes may be purchased for $80 and are good for EXPERIENCE WEST entry, as well as other TEXAS HISTORY services and discounts at federal public lands. Life- Discover the park’s Native time America the Beautiful American, cavalry (includ- Senior Passes (for U.S. ing the Buffalo Soldiers) and Citizens or Permanent Res- pioneer ranching history at one of the well- aware that the drive, though only a little over idents aged 62 or older) preserved historic sites. Listed on the National seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe may be purchased for $10 Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch Mountains National Park has two front-country and lifetime America the Cultural Museum features the homes and out- campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a Beautiful Access Passes may be obtained, free of buildings of various Anglo settlers, including group campground and group picnic area at Fri- charge, by U.S. Citizens the Smith family who operated their small truck jole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds and Permanent Residents farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery spread throughout the park. Obtain back-coun- who have qualifying per- is one of the best-preserved and highest staging try camping permits at the Pine Springs Visitors manent disabilities. outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route, Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. En- which ran from St. Louis to San Francisco from trance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at Pinery station ceased operations in August 1859, any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). when the route was shifted southward to give it Display your detachable stub on your vehicle COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

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Nowadays, the high desert coun- GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA try, mountain ranges and access • to the Rio Grande are only a few VAN HORNy Alpine of the natural wonders that make Alpine a popular destination. Situ- BIG BEND ated within the great Chihuahuan Desert between Big Bend National The unique geographic location, nestled Park and the Davis Mountains, between three mountain ranges, gives Alpine one Alpine, with its tree-lined streets of the most agreeable climates in Texas: warm, and university, is at the center of the greater Big Bend region. sunny winter days and cool summer nights. As such, it serves as the transportation and service hub for far West Texas. In addition to the general aviation airport, Alpine- Casparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer.

The Museum

of the Big Bend at Sul FUN FACT p Ross is a favorite stop. You may know For more than 70 years that Alpine was called Mur- the museum has col- phyville before lected and exhibited the name changed artifacts of the region, officially in 1888. showcasing 11,000 But did you know years of human history that prior to that the town was briefly and culture. Kids will called Osborne? enjoy seeing the large pterosaur reproduction and meeting “Big Ben,” a taxidermic, native black bear. The museum came to have him after he was struck by a car just a couple years ago. He now serves as an important teaching tool to the kids of the greater Big Bend area. No matter what brings you here, Alpine is a great staging place for any far West Texas adventure. - - There are ample lodging and din- ALPINE ing opportunities. See cowboys competing at rodeo events, watch professional baseball in an historic ballpark and see summer theater HE AREA THAT would one At the time Murphyville became productions under a roof of stars. day be Alpine had been a Alpine, there were already a dozen The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gather- ing, Trappings of Texas, Big Bend campsite for cattlemen until houses, three saloons, a hotel, room- Balloon Bash, Artwalk, Viva Big a town of tents was created, ing house, a livery stable, a butcher shop Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo consisting of railroad work- and a drugstore, which also housed the are just six of the most popular an- ers and their families. They post office. Alpine grew very slowly until nual events. called their tiny settlement Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross But, perhaps, what will keep Murphyville, and it re- State University) was opened in 1920. you coming back is the nearly idyl- lic climate. At 4,600 feet and per- T mained as such for five years The opening of Big Bend National Park fectly situated between the Davis, until a petition by townspeople rendered in the 1940s further spurred the growth Glass and Del Norte Mountains, a name change. of the town. you’ll be hard-pressed to find more moderate, year-round temperatures

ADAM HOLMES/VISITALPINETX.COM in all of Texas.

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Attractions

HISTORIC WALKING AND A WINDSHIELD TOUR Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitors Center located at 106 N. Third St. www.alpinetexas.com

B SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding D KOKERNOT FIELD valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley wander around. Many of the buildings are now des- Field, this baseball diamond was built for the Alpine ignated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas Cowboys, a semi-pro team of the mid-20th century. The State University System. With an average undergradu- landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional ate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys. for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in Liberal Arts, Science, Fine Arts or any number of ALPINE’S MURALS Professional Studies programs, such as Business Admin- The breezeway alongside the Reata Restaurant depicts istration or Criminal Law. www.sulross.edu scenes from the movie GIANT – the restaurant’s name pays homage to the famous film. Two blocks south, at Kiowa Gallery, see two murals by the famous Stylle Read, displaying images of West Texas and Alpine.

Around the corner, the local movie theater is decorated © Jim Bones with images of famous movie characters.

C MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo-American settlers. Every February through April, the museum plays host to the Trappings of Texas E COUNTY COURTHOUSE exhibition. (See the website for exact dates.) Tuesday- HALL OF HISTORY Saturday, 9 a.m. –5 p.m., Sunday, 1–5 p.m. Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster www.sulross.edu/museum County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB surrounding area. GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular HISTORIC MURPHY STREET F with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and conces- Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad sions are available. tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of PERFORMING ARTS AND Alpine. LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live Events entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under ARTWALK the stars and against the backdrop of West Texas at Alpine’s biggest annual gathering spans two days in Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivi- nights lively. www.sulross.edu/tobbEvents FROM TOP: COURTESY VISITALPINETX.COM, DARREN McGUIRE/VISITALPINETX.COM, KENNETH TOSO/VISITALPINETX.COM ties and live outdoor music through the evenings. (432) 837-3067 www.artwalkalpine.com

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 27 ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL 1 BIG BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cow- CENTER boys are the community’s professional baseball team in 2600 N. Highway 118 the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field (432) 837-3447 throughout the spring and summer are a refreshing www.bigbendhealthcare.com event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25 surrounding mountains. bed, joint commission accredited acute care facility. Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated BIG BEND BALLOON BASH Emergency Department and offers 24 hour emergency Each morning of Labor Day weekend, hot air balloons care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, paint the skies over Alpine. Visitors to the launch site pharmacy, laboratory, and surgical services. enjoy balloon, helicopter and powered parachute rides. www.bigbendballoonbash.com KIOWA GALLERY 105 E. Holland Ave. BIG BEND RANCH RODEO (432) 837-3067 The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center Kiowa Gallery is celebrating 20 years of serving the Big stage at this rodeo. Ranchers from all over the state come Bend with a premier collection of original paintings, to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills, pottery, jewelry and one-of-a-kind specialty gifts. from rounding up livestock to a fierce chuck wagon cookoff. (432) 364-2696 www.bigbendranchrodeo.com STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS 511 W. Holland Ave. CINCO DE MAYO (432) 837-9789 A three-day weekend filled with food, crafts, dancing, www.thestablealpine.com a parade, a car show, music, entertainment, enchilada At Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and supper, folkloric dancers and a Gran Mercado. classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere. TEXAS COWBOY POETRY GATHERING The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event IVEY’S EMPORIUM celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in 109 W. Holland Ave. poetry, stories, and music. Enjoy more than 50 perform- (432) 837-7474, www.iveysemporium.com ers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State Located in downtown Alpine, Ivey’s Emporium is a University in Alpine, Texas. popular store offering everything from gifts, decorative accessories and tasteful souvenirs of the Big Bend TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS region. Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held every February at the TALLENT ROOFING Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross 110 N. 6th St. State University, visitors and interested buyers can (432) 837-7009, www.tallentroofing.com meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who Tallent provides residential and commercial roofing ser- have works for sale at the Museum and at the public vices and is family owned and operated since 1987. auction fundraiser. Trappings kicks off the third weekend of April 2015. www.sulross.edu/museum Real Estate

VIVA BIG BEND MOUNTAIN VIEW PROPERTIES Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far 2100 W. Hwy 90 West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in (432) 837-5518 Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa and Marathon, VBB showcases mtnviewproperties.com more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Other events hap- Mountain View Properties specializes in the marketing pening during VBB include an art show, kids’ activities and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and functions geared toward musicians/music-industry and ranch properties. We also serve Presidio, Jeff Davis reps. More details can be found at and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier www.vivabigbend.com. real estate company of choice, we will be there to assist you from beginning to end! We are your relocation specialist! Shopping & Services 2 SIERRA LA RANA ALPINE AUTO RENTAL 2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 2501 E. Highway 90 (866) 757-2382 (432) 837-3463 www.sierralarana.com www.alpineautorental.com Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now of- All the amenities of a big city car rental agency, right fering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized here in Alpine. U-HAUL trailers and trucks available. international dark sky community.

28 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 385 115 349 137 Must 176 ang MARTIN D ra w Shafter 385 ANDREWS 118 Andrews 176 Stillwell 115 67 Ranch 10 54 349 20 NEW MEXICO 128 EL PASO 180 Stanton 87 163 GUADALUPE 62 Midland Presidio MOUNTAINS 18 158 62 180 NATIONAL PARK Red Blu Nor Reservoir th Concho El Paso 302 302 158 GLASSCOCK LOVING Kermit Riv 158 er BIG BEND RANCH Soccorro WINKLER ECTOR Odessa Sterling City 302 Garden STATE PARK Heath BIG San Elizario City 87 Canyon CULBERSON Wink Study BEND 20 HUDSPETH Penwell MIDLAND 54 20 Butte 115 Terlingua NATIONAL 1111 STERLING PARK REEVES WARD Monahans 349 UPTON 137 163 Lajitas Chisos Pecos REAGAN ARD TIME Basin Pecos River ARD TIME Crane 329 AND Lake Castolon Rio Grande AND 17 Toyah 10 CRANE 329 Village AIN ST 20 385 Rankin Sierra Blanca Imperial Big Lake

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ST L E J W GALLEGO S AV Presidio T W 277 2 E H VE I W AV W A 377 1 mile BIG BEND RANCH HOLLAND HOTEL Lodging 6 STATE PARK BIG Del Food & Drink 209 W. Holland Ave. Heath Amistad (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800 HAMPTON INN Study BEND PLAINE 4 www.thehollandhoteltexas.com International Rio Sycamore 2607 W. Hwy. 90 Canyon 215 E. Holland Ave. Newly renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost NATIONAL Creek (432) 837-7344 Terlingua Butte Reservoir (432) 837-5157, www.tumbleweedlaundry.com architecture. www.alpine.hamptoninn.com PARK Plaine is a full-service coffee shop serving Big Bend Indoor pool/spa, fitness room. Bracketville Coffee Roasters any way you take it. We also serve Blue 7 THE MAVERICK INN Bell ice cream and all-fruit smoothies. Also, try out our 1200 E. Holland Ave. HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES Lajitas brand new laundromat next door. 5 (432) 837-0628 Chisos Ciudad 90 2004 E. Hwy. 90 www.themaverickinn.com (432) 837-9597 REATA RESTAURANT A roadhouse for wanderers. 277 3 www.holidayinnexpress.com Basin Acuña 203 N. 5th Street Indoor pool, fitness room. Rio Grande KINNEY (432) 837-9232 Castolon www.reata.net Village The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From 131 chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted ten- derloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas MAVERICK dining experience not to miss.

57 SADDLE CLUB 211 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9770

www.saddleclubalpine.com 17

ES The Saddle Club features a cozy environment with PY PL stellar food and drinks. Relax inside and outside on the patio, or book our private space upstairs for your 118

special occasion. E JPE RD SP TONY COLVIN/VISITALPINETX.COM

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EL PASO DOWNTOWN ARTS DISTRICT y The district features unique shopping, a EL PASO GUADALUPE MTS. walking tour of historic downtown, the El • VAN HORN Paso Museums of Art and History, public artworks and the beautifully restored Plaza

BIG BEND Theatre. The district is also experienc- ing unprecedented growth, thanks to a multi-million dollar quality of life bond and private investments. New additions to the area include Southwest University Park, home of the newest Triple-A baseball team, the El Paso Chihuahuas; a TouchCity Digital/ Interactive history wall, the first in the U.S.; an enriching Hispanic Cultural Center; a new children’s museum; and a pedestrian pathway/wayfinding project that will connect the most popular downtown districts.

HUECO TANKS STATE HISTORIC SITE World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Pictograph tours are offered, and you can also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call before visiting, (800) 792-1112, option 3.

FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits in the middle of the city.

WYLER AERIAL TRAMWAY The tramway offers a view of 7,000 square El Paso miles, two countries and three states from With the largest urban state parks in the U.S., the 5,632-foot elevation at the southern edge of the Franklin Mountains. right in the heart of the city, you don’t have to go far to find real adventure. EL PASO MUSEUM OF ARCHAE- OLOGY AT WILDERNESS PARK The El Paso Museum of Archaeology S YOU WATCH the sun rise 315 days of sun to the equation and you provides visitors with a glimpse into the over a picturesque mountain can live a Hemingway novel in about a preservation of archaeological and anthro- backdrop, a city brimming week — unless you’d rather use all that pological artifacts through research, exhib- with adventure comes to life. sunshine to relax by a pool. its, education, etc. The museum grounds A El Paso curves around a El Paso’s native friendliness, warm include trails with more than 200 native still-wild terrain of mountains and foot- sunshine and untamed mountains will plant varieties and outdoor exhibits. hills that promise, after a short climb or make your trip here the absolute oppo- KEYSTONE HERITAGE PARK a cable-car ride on a Swiss-made gon- site of a themed, fabricated experience. A 52-acre park located in El Paso’s Upper dola, a breathtaking panoramic view. It’s for real explorers. Discover it for Valley serves as an archaeological site, Fresh-air excursions alone can give you yourself. Real adventure is still alive in archaic wetlands and a botanical garden. plenty of reasons to get up and go. Add El Paso. Over 193 species of birds have been spotted here, including 22 species considered

rare by the Audubon Society. FROM LEFT: COURTESY EL PASO CVB; ANDY MANN

32 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 33

Even after the fort closed, the community of Fort Davis grew as GUADALUPE MTS. • a ranching center and by the early ODESSA y 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers Fort Davis• ALPINE from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert BIG BEND during the summer months.

The intriguing history of the

FUN FACT area drew more tourists with p Every summer, the designation of the fort Fort Davis NHS as a national historic site in FORT hosts a Junior 1961. Many of its buildings Ranger Days have been restored, making program, specially it one of the best surviving designed for children visiting the fort. The examples of a frontier mili- summer program tary post in the Southwest. Davis includes a historic Stargazers, birdwatchers, baseball game. Learn cyclists and hikers have also Take a step back in time and travel to a place rich more at the mobile sought out the “Highest in history — a place where the old West meets tag to the left or by visiting the fort Town in Texas” for access to modern amenities, and there’s not a single stop the McDonald Observatory light! and Davis Mountain State Park/Indian Lodge.

Attractions

A MCDONALD IGH IN THE Davis Moun- Fort Davis takes its name from the OBSERVATORY tains and surrounded by military post established there in 1854 A world leader in astronomical research, unspoiled vistas of the Chi- along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke huahuan Desert, the charm- The fort was manned by companies of and Fowlkes benefits from some of the ing little town of Fort Davis the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect emi- darkest night skies in the nation. The feels far removed from the grants, freighters and mail coaches from Frank N. Bash Visitor Center is the start- H ing point for tours and hosts Star Parties rest of the world. The town raids by Apache and Comanche Indians on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday eve- stretches just one mile with most of in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was nings. Interactive educational exhibits the family-owned businesses centered home to four companies of the 9th U.S. can be found at the visitor center along around the county courthouse and Calvary — African-American soldiers with a gift shop stocked with unique and along the main street (Highway 118). It that became known as Buffalo Sol- educational keepsakes. Open daily 10 has the feel of a western frontier town a.m. to 5:30 p.m. with self-guided tours diers. Fort Davis soon became a major available until 5 p.m. Daytime programs offering a retreat to a simpler past and a military installment, and the town grew are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. www.mcdonal- chance to soak in the natural surround- right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lum- dobservatory.org ing beauty, abundant wildlife and rich ber yard, bakery, furniture store, several history of the area. hotels, a mercantile and saloons. B DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open year-round, and full RV hookups are available. COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 35 FORT DAVIS NATIONAL TEXAS STAR PARTY C Lodging HISTORIC SITE Hosted by Texas Star Party, each year the Texas Star Fort Davis was one the most important posts Party takes place at the Historic Prude Ranch and HOTEL LIMPIA/BLUE MOUNTAIN BISTRO in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic includes local tours, talks and evening programs. 101 Memorial Square location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso www.texasstarparty.org (800) 662-5517 Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. www.nps.gov/foda/ hotellimpia.com FORT DAVIS FRONTIER AND MULE DAYS D THE OVERLAND TRAIL Mules and donkeys steal the show during this fun FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK MUSEUM family event with vendors, donkey races and a full 2201 Texas 17 On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the mule show. Sept. 26-27, 2014. www.fortdavis.com (800) 80-DAVIS museum has displays and photographs depicting fortdavisinn.com early life on the western frontier and features a CYCLEFEST restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equip- Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, THE STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP 1 ment. Open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 1-5 p.m. Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 507 N. State Street years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the (432) 426-3941 E SCENIC LOOP DRIVE third weekend in September. www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com A 75-mile drive on the highest public high- www.pbbatx.com Recently renovated ’30s-era motor court. Fourteen way in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past motel units complete with bath/shower, AC/Heat, 6 the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observa- FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND camp rooms, heated pool. Outdoor grill available. tory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and Always the first full weekend of December, fes- Natural food market and deli on property. the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with tivities include a Christmas tree lighting, a parade, plenty of spots to rest and picnic including a large visits with Santa and a Christmas tree hunt. www. pine-shaded area with tables in Madera Canyon. fortdavis.com Food & Drink CHIHUAHUAN DESERT ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR F 1 STONE VILLAGE MARKET DELI NATURE CENTER For more than three decades the people at St. Jo- 507 N. State Street Home to the Chihuahuan Desert Research seph Catholic Church have hosted this community- www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com Institute, the center features 20 acres of botanical wide arts & crafts far. Always held the Saturday of 432-426-3941 gardens and a greenhouse with a collection of more Thanksgiving weekend. than 200 species of cacti. There are three miles of hiking trails and outdoor exhibits including the Chi- huahuan Desert Mining Heritage exhibit. The visitor center is home to interpretive exhibits and a gift shop, and is surrounded by a Wildscape Demonstra- tion Garden that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and other wildlife. Located four miles south of Fort Davis on Highway118. Open Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. www.cdri.org

G HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY COURTHOUSE Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910-1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternat- ing horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower. Events

THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, an old-fashioned gun fight, a 5K run, an apple pie and empanada contest, a pet contest, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars.

36 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 385 115 349 137 Must 176 ang MARTIN D ra w Shafter 385 ANDREWS 118 Andrews 176 Stillwell 115 67 Ranch 10 54 349 20 NEW MEXICO 128 EL PASO 180 Stanton 87 163 GUADALUPE 62 Midland Presidio MOUNTAINS 18 158 62 180 NATIONAL PARK Red Blu Nor Reservoir th Concho El Paso 302 302 158 GLASSCOCK LOVING Kermit Riv 158 er BIG BEND RANCH Soccorro WINKLER ECTOR Odessa Sterling City 302 Garden STATE PARK Heath BIG San Elizario City 87 Canyon CULBERSON Wink Study BEND 20 HUDSPETH Penwell MIDLAND 54 20 Butte 115 Terlingua NATIONAL 1111 STERLING PARK REEVES WARD Monahans 349 UPTON 137 163 Lajitas Chisos Pecos REAGAN ARD TIME Basin Pecos River ARD TIME Crane 329 AND Lake Castolon Rio Grande AND 17 Toyah 10 CRANE 329 Village AIN ST 20 385 Rankin Sierra Blanca Imperial Big Lake

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FORT DAVIS DRUGSTORE D Fort Davis ESCALERO S 113 North State Street, in the heart of downtown Fort National M Negras COMPROMISE ST Davis; (432) 426-3118 Historic 17 Site www.fortdavisdrugstore.net 118 C Real Estate

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GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA • FORT STOCKTON VISITOR VAN HORN y A Fort CENTER Stockton Located in the renovated Kansas BIG BEND City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Coman- che Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, Early Pioneers, Vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/ Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www. historicfortstocktontx.com

B MESA VINEYARDS WINE TASTING ROOM AT THE HISTORIC GREY MULE SALOON The historic saloon offers a perfect setting to highlight the wines of Mesa Vineyard. The tasting room offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (1:30 p.m.-7 p.m.). (432) 336-WINE. Available for special Fort events and group appointments. HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR Beginning at the Visitor Center, the Stockton self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264 ORT STOCKTON was estab- The community was originally known lished in March 1859 as Camp as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the C PAISANO PETE Stockton. The army withdrew name to Fort Stockton in 1881. Paisano Pete, located in the from Texas during the Civil Fort Stockton was incorporated as a center of town on the corner of War and abandoned Fort city in December of 1910 and elected its Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside Stockton in 1861. Confeder- first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the attractions in the Southwest. Fort ate troops briefly occupied the County Seat of Pecos County, the sec- Stockton’s unofficial mascot was F site until they, too, withdrew ond-largest county in the state. Covering erected in 1980 and declared the in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 re-established by four Companies of the is one of Texas’ largest energy producers feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. combining renewable energy with fossil and has been an enduring symbol of The 9th was one of the new regi- fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales the community since his arrival. He is ments organized after the Civil War and the service industry are also impor- one of the most photographed ”birds” staffed with African-American enlisted tant contributors to the local economy. in the world. men known as Buffalo Soldiers. COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB

38 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 385 115 349 137 Must 176 ang MARTIN D ra w Shafter 385 ANDREWS 118 Andrews 176 Stillwell 115 67 Ranch 10 54 349 20 NEW MEXICO 128 EL PASO 180 Stanton 87 163 GUADALUPE 62 Midland Presidio MOUNTAINS 18 158 62 180 NATIONAL PARK Red Blu Nor Reservoir th Concho El Paso 302 302 158 GLASSCOCK LOVING Kermit Riv 158 er BIG BEND RANCH Soccorro WINKLER ECTOR Odessa Sterling City 302 Garden STATE PARK Heath BIG San Elizario City 87 Canyon CULBERSON Wink Study BEND 20 HUDSPETH Penwell MIDLAND 54 20 Butte 115 Terlingua NATIONAL 1111 STERLING PARK REEVES WARD Monahans 349 UPTON 137 163 Lajitas Chisos Pecos REAGAN ARD TIME Basin Pecos River ARD TIME Crane 329 AND Lake Castolon Rio Grande AND 17 Toyah 10 CRANE 329 Village AIN ST 20 385 Rankin Sierra Blanca Imperial Big Lake

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In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Com- ALEZ UR BE QUHART AN testament to the hard and often violent life on the merce, this free six-session summer concert series is GRANADO DR

SAN JU early frontier. held at Zero Stone Park in Downtown Fort Stockton. SGT GONZ

Many types of music are celebrated including jazz, 17 118 E HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every This important Indian Wars Fort was active other Friday beginning June 3 and ending Aug. 12. from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at (432) 336-2264 Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Events Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and emi- OLD FORT DAYS 1 mile grants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE Held annually on the Historic Fort Grounds the third of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history housing the museum and period displays. 301 East challenging open road race in the world” held to life with period re-enactors and demonstrations. Third Street (432) 336-2400 the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to Military units representing the periods of occupa- Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area tion of Fort Stockton are represented as are the F ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432) civilian population that lived near the Historic Fort. Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent ex- 336-2264 www.bborr.com Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during ample of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family the early settlement of the Southwest are presented donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cav- Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began alry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400 wild and colorful history with displays featuring area back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main. and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual (432) 336-2167 event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL crowning of Ms. Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche G Fort Stockton GOLF COURSE Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event con- This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCal- tinues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264 lister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday-Sunday. (432) 336-2050 SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, H JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK this free six-session summer concert series is held Home to the historic Comanche Springs at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, off of the 18 Pavilion and Swimming Pool built in 1938 over back porch featuring historic period- and western- 67 the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort themed music. The concerts are held every other Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285, Thursday, June 9 through Aug. 18. (432) 336-2167

FM Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751

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GUADALUPE MTS. • LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA ODESSA Under new ownership since 2007, the • ALPINE resort town, spa, equestrian center, RV Park and new golf course ensure y BIG BEND Lajitas that Lajitas flourishes with a variety of new shops, restaurants and activities. More information at www.lajitasgolfresort.com. Attractions

BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE This semi-private, Lanny Wadkins- designed 18-hole championship golf course captures the beauty and drama of the desert. The course winds through the mountains offering challenging golf for all skill levels.

THE HUNT CLUB Located 40 miles from the resort, The Hunt Club is housed on 650 acres along the Rio Grande. Full-day and multi-day hunts are available for white-wing dove in the fall.

LAJITAS BOARDWALK The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to explore including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, Lajitas Art Gallery exhibiting work by local artists, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escape and Lysha’s Bakery for fresh baked pastries. T T Outfitters & Tours LAJITASLAJITAS ANGELL EXPEDITIONS A community along the Rio Grande River (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787 named for the small flat rocks that blanket the area, www.angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater born of ancient volcanoes and inland seas. Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, moun- UCKED BETWEEN tain biking and camping. Single and Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State multi-day trips available, tailored to your Park, Lajitas has played host to a cast of infamous characters throughout interests and schedules. Highest ranking history. Fossil bones of giant marine reptiles and large dinosaurs over 65 on TripAdvisor! million years old have been discovered in the vicinity. The historic river RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, has been used (432) 557-9477 for centuries. The Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo crossed here in www.rioaviation.com 1588. Lajitas Trading Post was built in 1899 to facilitate workers, goods Rio Aviation specializes in scenic flights Tand material coming from Mexico to the booming cinnabar mines in the area. over some of the most spectacular country along the Rio Grande, including By the early 20th century, Lajitas enjoyed a Grande. In late 1916 and early 1917, General the Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon and the public school and a U.S. post office. A military John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspec- Devil’s Playground. The plane accommo- outpost was established here to protect the stra- tion of the area along with his aide, Lieutenant dates up to four passengers comfort- tegic mining industry during the period of un- George Patton. There are cowboy stories along ably, and the high-wing configuration rest caused by the Mexican Revolution of 1910- with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every provides an excellent platform for 1920, when the name of Pancho Villa was either crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the flightseeing and photography. worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio area. COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA

42 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Just a quarter mile west of the Hwy. 385 turn off to the National

GUADALUPE MTS. • Park, lies Marathon’s diverse historical ODESSA • main street village with shops, restau- VAN HORN y rants, galleries, groceries and accom- Marathon modations to suit every taste and need. BIG BEND Railroad and ranching are still part of the local economy and are the indus- tries that founded the town. Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for five miles to the Post Park. With very little traffic and fabulous views,

this road is ideal for running,

FUN FACT walking and biking. Wild- p The Marathon life such as deer, javelinas, Museum is turkey and even an occasion- located at al fox can be seen in the early the corner of North Third and morning or late evenings. Avenue E (on the Post Park itself is a beautiful Square) in the his- secluded pond and county toric “Club House,” park on the Pena Colorado originally the site of the first schoolhouse river shaded by Cottonwood in Buchel-Brewster trees and surrounded by Los County. Caballos Novaculite Moun- tains. Named after the old cavalry post in the mid- 1800’s known as Camp Pena Colorado, it is popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend region. It hosts the longest running community event in Big Bend…. The 4th of July dance. For more photos, see marathontexas.com and themarathonfoundation.org Visit the tiny local library and stop in for the Wednesday pre-school children’s program, or visit the Marathon Museum and old jail. Take in local geologic features, from the bluntness of Iron Moun- Marathon tain to the north to the lightness of UST 40 MILES NORTH the Glass Mountains, one of the few of It is especially attractive to astronomers exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. the entrance to Big Bend because Marathon is blessed by having a While in Marathon, you’ll stand on Nat’l Park lies the quaint rare distinction of being an established, some of the oldest rocks from the community of Marathon. functional community under a ‘Class 1 Paleozoic age (250-600 million years Situated in what is known Dark Sky’ (Dark as it gets)! … right in ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes the Ouachita Mountains (Arkansas as the Magnificent Mara- town. Its remote geographic location, el- and Oklahoma) that were heaved up thon Basin, Marathon evation and size all contribute to enhanc- during the formation of the ancient boasts a delightful cli- ing this natural resource. Even though continent of Pangaea (when all the mate,J beautiful surroundings and friend- the surrounding communities are under continents were one). Road cuts east ly people, in addition to being centrally the ‘same sky’, their increasing light pol- of town on Highway 90 and south on located to many of the area’s unique at- lution is adversely affecting their night Highway 385 expose spectacular features such as strike-slip faults, unusual tractions. With the entrance to Big sky. Marathon’s local community and folding and fossil fragments. Bend National Park so close, many folks businesses are on their way to protecting Whether you are looking for dark stay in Marathon and hike in the park every exterior light in town from intru- skies, luxurious accommodations, a every day. sion on the fabulous dark sky. local haven, shops and galleries, bicycling, birding, running, yoga, hiking in the National Park or just plain relaxation…. Marathon is your town. DANIEL SELF 44 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM

Should you decide to make Mara- BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK and hours: www.famousburro.com Lodging or call in your order (during business thon your destination, or when Marathon is the northern and eastern you’re ready to head down the gateway to Big Bend National Park. A hours) and they’ll have it ready for EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED road, you’re a manageable distance 45-minute drive takes you to the park pick up: 432-386-4100. & BREAKFAST from just about anywhere in the entrance, where you are greeted with 200 N.W. 3rd St. FRENCH COMPANY GROCER area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles. breathtaking desert vistas. After an- (432) 386-4165 Another 26 will get you to either other 45-minute drive inside the park Just north of the bank www.evesgarden.org Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re you can find yourself in the cool, high (432) 386-4522 Seven colorful guest rooms hand- like most, you’ll probably be head- Chisos Mountains Basin, where you www.frenchcogrocer.com built with recycled materials, each ing south to Big Bend National can see across the river into Mexico. Homemade sandwiches, salads, with private bath, surround a lush Park. Good news — Marathon bread, cookies and coffee. Groceries, garden courtyard. Includes guest is closer to the park than any SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL natural foods, beer/wine, camping courtesy room and full organic other town in the region, at just 102 W. Hwy 90 supplies, ATM and internet access. breakfast. 48 miles. (800) 884-GAGE 12 GAGE Marathon is sitting pretty www.gagehotel.com GAGE HOTEL as the locals’ haven and visitors’ Luxury spa in the historic Gage Hotel. in the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West 102 W. Hwy 90 uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip Massages, body wraps. The ultimate (432) 386-4205 (800) 884-GAGE and a jump from all that welcomes in relaxation. www.gagehotel.com www.gagehotel.com visitors to far West Texas and its An extraordinary dining experience Unique, historic, sophisticated bou- own little corner of heaven. in the historic Gage Hotel. Events tique hotel.

Attractions MARATHON CHILI COOK-OFF July 4-7, 2014 – CASI-sponsored chili CAMP PENA COLORADO cook-offs Friday and Saturday. Dance (POST PARK) at “the Post” Saturday night featuring Five miles south of town, this shady Craig Carter and the Spur of the Mo- oasis known simply as “The Post” (pic- ment band. tured on p. 44) was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche WEST FEST AND CABRITO Trail necessitated the establishment COOK-OFF of a cavalry post there. Although The last weekend of September, very little remains of the army post, cooks vie for top prize with cabrito it nevertheless gives the spot its cur- (goat) specialties. Activities include rent name. It is a popular location for washer pitching, team roping, soft- dances, picnics and fishing, and is one ball, live music and a dance. of the best birding sites in the region. MARATHON MOTEL Art & Galleries MARATHON 2 MARATHON West Hwy 90 MARATHON HISTORICAL 5K, 10K, half and full marathons on (866) 386-4241 EVANS GALLERY MUSEUM the new Highway 385 course. Pre- www.marathonmotel.com Four doors down from the Gage Displays on early ranching, railroads run pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel. Established in 1940 and recently (432) 386-4366 and the mercantile history of Mara- Dinner and dance celebration at the renovated with 10 newly decorated www.jameshevans.com thon. North 3rd Street and Avenue E. Marathon Motel. Oct. 25, 2014. rooms divided between four duplex Featuring the photographs of James www.marathon2marathon.net cabins. Also, 19 full RV hookups. H. Evans, a 25-year resident of Mara- HALLIE’S HALL OF FAME Service includes water, 30/50 amp thon and author of Big Bend Pictures MUSEUM COWBOY SOCIAL electricity, sewer and cable television. and Crazy from the Heat. Home of Located 40 miles south on Highway First Sunday in November starting at Easy-to-navigate entrance and clean, Desert Critter Wear — clothing and 385, then six miles east on FM 2627, 3 p.m. Includes a dance, fajita dinner, bright restrooms, complete with linens with printed desert critters. this family museum honors the cash bar, silent auction and “wheel- showers — available to RVers at no memory of legendary ranch woman, barrow of wine” raffle, all benefiting additional charge. teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. the Marathon Health Clinic. (432) Call before going as their hours vary 386-3122 (432) 376-2244. Food & Drink FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA GAGE GARDENS & WALKING A community event in the spirit of the THE FAMOUS BURRO TOUR winter holiday season. Galleries and The Famous Burro is located at 100 This shady 26-acre park often serves shops open on the first Saturday in North East 1st Street in the heart of as a venue for weddings and other December as musicians stroll among Marathon, Texas. From handmade events, and its orchards supply the the downtown revelers. Starts at burgers to our fully-stocked bar, to a Gage restaurant with fresh fruits and dusk. free game room and stellar staff, the produce. It also features a quarter- Burro offers affordable and casual mile walking trail, water fountains dining in the heart of Big Bend. Check and pond, and a putting green. The the website and Facebook page for grounds are open to the public. updates on live music, dinner specials FROM TOP: PHILLIP MOELLERING, COURTESY JAMES EVANS

46 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM On the surface, it is a typical ru- ral town - a main street, a courthouse, GUADALUPE MTS. • churches and well-kept houses. Look ODESSA • deeper and you will find restaurants VAN HORN ALPINE y • and art collections to rival New York Marfa or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie BIG BEND stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations (like El Cosmico’s renovated vintage trailers, scout tents, traditional 22-foot Sioux teepees and campsites, or the uber-modern Hotel Thunderbird). Until the 1970s, Marfa was best Marfa known for the ghost lights and as the A vanguard for minimalism and modern art, film location for James Dean’s final picture, GIANT, also starring Rock Marfa continues to mystify and amaze visitors. Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Den- nis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center HE ENIGMATIC city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded of activity during the making of the by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night. movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of while preserving the spirit of its past. attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s, If you are unable to stay there, a visit the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, is a must - sit in by a roaring fire- many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you place in the lobby or enjoy the outside can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, galleries or courtyard and fountain. Tcultural events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world who come In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to in for urban dislocation. Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing his art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. The Chinati Foundation now occu- pies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin.

While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa Ghost Lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and pass- ersby, and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. FROM TOP: COURTESY TEX TOLER, COURTESY TEX TOLER

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E ORNELAS ST FM 17 0 DUPUY AV ST VELA Attractions and county history, and a collection Judd, while Ballroom Marfa features The Marfa Lights Festival takes place AV E of panoramic photography by Frank revolving exhibits of international each Labor Day weekend, with many BRIDGE ST MARFA MYSTERY A Duncan. Hours 2-5 p.m. Thursday acclaim, along with numerous music of the activities surrounding the pic- 1 mile LIGHTS through Sunday. events throughout the year. In ad- turesque Presidio County Courthouse. Marfa’s “Mystery Ghost Lights” BROOKS ST dition to these three organizations, The festival begins on Friday when were first documented by rancher MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF several independent galleries and food and craft vendors open their BEACH AVE Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories COURSE studios are open across town. booths. Saturday morning starts with a

MILLINGT about the source of these curious The highest golf course in Texas, www.chinati.org OR 5K walk/run and a parade down High-

L lights abound, but no one has ever ANDO ST situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, www.juddfoundation.org land Avenue. Live music is featured been able to fully explain the phe- ON BL this 9-hole course offers not only www.ballroommarfa.org throughout the weekend. In 2014, nomenon. Swamp gas, phosphores- well-kept greens but also 360-degree Tejano legend Sunny Ozuna stars. VD cent mineral displays, ball lightning, views of blue mountains and open Events UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ranchland. It is a wonderfully mani- E PADRE’S ANNIVERSARY RIVER AV ancestors have been proposed. What- cured surprise in the middle of the CHINATI WEEKEND Marfa’s favorite funeral home turned ever the cause, these playful lights desert mountains. (432) 729-4043. Originally a gathering orchestrated watering hole holds its annual Memo- above Mitchell Flat are an enduring by the Chinati and Judd Foundations, rial Day weekend celebration. Live attraction. You’ll find a roadside park Art Chinati Weekend (formerly “Open music, good food and great people. Marfa and viewing center complete with House”) has grown to be a full-scale FM 170 www.padresmarfa.com

4TH ST restroom facilities, picnic tables and CHINATI FOUNDATION , JUDD weekend of art and activity . long-range viewing devices along FOUNDATION and BALLROOM www.chinati.org. Food & Drink Highway 90 just eight miles east of MARFA are three nonprofit art Rio Gr

FM 17 0 town. spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. Oc- EL COSMICO WEEKEND SQUEEZE MARFA 1 cupying much of former Fort D.A. Rus- The annual El Cosmico Weekend Across from the Presidio County ande PRESIDIO COUNTY B sell, the Chinati Foundation houses a takes place in September and imports Courthouse COURTHOUSE permanent collection of music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico of- (432) 729-4500 Built in 1886, the Goddess contemporary art, as fers alternative lodging options www.squeezemarfa.com MEXIC of Justice stands atop this elegant well as temporary to travelers in the 17 www.vollenweiderchocolate.com Second Empire-style domed structure exhibits by artists E LIVINGSTON forms of renovated Smoothies, juices, soups, sandwiches, that was restored in 2001. A climb to in residence. The vintage trailers, salads and Vollenweider Swiss chocolate.

E TENONO ORDENER N Presidio the cupola provides a 360-degree Judd Foundation N DEAN yurts, a teepee panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, focuses primarily E SALGADO N and camp- NOM PLANET MARFA

Chinati Peak and nearby Davis sites. 200 S. Abbot St.

Mountains. Hours EZ E MENDIAS E SALOROSA (432) 386-5099 O 170 are 9 a.m.-4 p.m. W 5TH Offering a shady, open-air beer garden

1 mile Monday through W 3RD N SUMMER E 2ND

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F IDGE M 17 W MURPH 1 S bus. Nachos and homemade pico de 0 F E TEXA known as the Humphris-Hum- ON M 1 SHINGT AD 1112 gallo are served from the kitchen until RO WA N K W 2 7 phreys House, this museum RANCH 10 p.m. Owned and operated by the 0 N SUMM E LL features displays of GIANT, the OLN SO Y N MESA founders, Jon & Aase Johnson since La- W LINC E EL PA OAK W IO SHAFTER WAY ER S A bor Day weekend of 2010, Planet Marfa ON A ASO S SPRING L P E SAN ANT P W E C S NEVILL ERE has been called the best little Mexican CEDAR AVE S A I S AU LL O beach bar this side of Mazatlan. E DA S FREMONT

S HARTFORD IO N TENISON S N S HIGHL TO ASO AN ANTO TIN PHILADELPHIA W S VES W EL P DALLAS E GAL LEVY RD W Lodging S N CO SACRAMENTO STO A WA S SUMME HILL LVE E GA ND S W PL A 2ND AV 1ST M HAR S HOOV LLAS A S S AL S D HOTEL PAISANO W AT CO NIO S EDINBURG

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AV DOD E A historic hotel with 41 rooms, dining LEA FOOT TOST N ROSED HI room, shopping and a heated pool,. ALE AVE LOHOR NG L L LL B The Paisano hosted the stars of the LV FALA 67 D S HI ROSEDALE ST E BONNIE movie GIANT and now serves as the V A YE AV N E BELMONT ON RD TT E ST E TT LOUVAIN BLVD KATHENNE social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy LOUVAIN BLVD NY S

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MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHWEST Explore the museum and see the many Midland y collections and rotating exhibits, with GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA • more than 12,000 works of art. While VAN HORN ALPINE • you’re there visit the hands-on children’s museum and see the stars at the

BIG BEND planetarium. (432) 683-2882 or www. museumsw.org

FUN FACT Susie’s South Forty Confections Candy Factory is a GuinnessTM World Record-Holder for making the largest piece of toffee. It was shaped like the state of Texas.

CAF AIRPOWER MUSEUM World renowned for World War II artifacts, the museum

is host to the world’s largest

FUN FACT collection of Aviation Nose Art p XCOR Aero- and the annual CAF AIRSHO space has in October. (432) 563-1000 or moved their www.airpowermuseum.org headquarters from California to Midland and will soon be offering GEORGE W. BUSH suborbital flights on PRESIDENTIAL the Lynx in Midland. CHILDHOOD HOME Nowhere else has one building been home to so many influential people. This 1,492-square-foot house has been called home by two presidents, two governors, a former CIA director and ambassador to China, and a first lady. (432) 685-1112 or Midland www.bushchildhoodhome.org Fly into Midland International Airport (closest airport to PERMIAN BASIN PETROLEUM Big Bend) and stay a couple nights to experience the MUSEUM AND CHAPARRAL culture and cuisine in this exciting metropolitan city GALLERY before heading down to the mountains. Roam the 60,000 square feet of the museum and discover the history of oil and the important role it plays in our past, present and future. See firsthand the chaparral HEN MOST people think world unlike most others you’ll experi- race cars whose designs have a prominent of Midland, they envision ence in your travels. place in racing history. (432) 683-4403 or big hats, oil rigs, cowboy Nicknamed the “Tall City” for its www.petroleummuseum.org boots and true Texas man- jutting downtown against the vast plains ners. They’re not far off. of the basin, Midland’s downtown and Folks in the Permian area attractions make it a great place to W Basin are proud of their start your journey westward. Take a look Texas roots and the prosperity they’ve at what it has to offer, and “Feel the En- found in the oil business. But beyond ergy” for yourself. that, they’ve carved out a niche in the PHOTOS COURTESY MIDLAND CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 51

STONEHENGE The amazing replica of the original Odessa GUADALUPE MTS. y Stonehenge fascinates visitors from

• around the world. The replica is 70 per- VAN HORN ALPINE • cent of the original’s dimensions and exact in horizontal size, with the tallest

BIG BEND or the limestone standing at 19 feet. The exhibit is located on the University of the Permian Basin Campus. www. odessahistory.com/menusthg.htm. Odessa When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is The Right Place to Be.

ELLEN NOËL ART MUSEUM

The Ellen Noel Art Museum of the

FUN FACT Permian Basin is an independent p The book art museum. The museum features Friday Night rotating exhibitions of historical Lights: A Town, and contemporary art, a perma- a Team, and nent sculpture/sensory garden, a Dream by author and programs of art education H. G. Bissinger and subsequent movie for all ages. The Museum is one of (Friday Night Lights) only two art museums in the state are based on the of Texas that has been granted the 1988 football sea- Smithsonian Affiliation. The Muse- son of the Permian Panthers, one of um is located at 4909 E. University. the two high school www.noelartmuseum.org football teams in Odessa. The book ODESSA METEOR CRATER also inspired an NBC MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER television series of the same name. The crater, the second-largest in the nation, is approximately 550 feet in diameter and almost 100 feet deep. Just west of Odessa off I-20, Exit 108. (432) 381-0946

OUNDED IN 1881 as a water stop and cattle shipping point on the Texas and Pacific Railway, Odessa has grown to be a real metropolitan area, with all the accoutrements of big city living. In fact, Odessa is one of the GLOBE OF THE GREAT most economically important cities in Texas. SOUTHWEST But beyond the rigs, the roughnecks and the rodeos, Odessa is a Modeled after Shakespeare's simple town with a heart of gold. With that great fortitude comes great original Globe Theatre. Home of stage plays and the Brand New Opree, respect for culture and the arts — not to mention a penchant for sports. a showcase for musical talent. Also FHome to sports organizations like the North American Hockey League team the features the Anne Hathaway Cottage. Odessa Jackalopes, this is the place to stay when you’re looking for in-city activities The Theatre is located on the Odessa that will wow the kids and entertain mom and dad as well. College Campus at 2308 Shakespeare Road. www.globesw.org

PHOTOS COURTESY ODESSA CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 53

CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM Dedicated to sharing and preserving his- ODESSA GUADALUPE MTS. • tory, featuring an award winning Indian Ozona • Exhibit,visitors will leave this museum VAN HORN y feeling as if they have truly traveled through time. This three story period museum with BIG BEND its general store, bank room, saddle room, school room and many other exhibits, de- pict so clearly the heritage of this region and the way of life once lived by so many before us. www.crockettcountymuseum.com

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Open Monday through Friday, 9am-5pm, and Saturdays from 10am-3pm. 24- hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300 mile When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is radius of Ozona. Located at the Intersec- The Right Place to Be. tion of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.cvom

CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRE- TIVE TRAIL Open to the public 7 days a week and located just across the parking lot of the Visitor Center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South.

The purpose of the trail is to educate local and regional residents and visitors across the country about the importance of Located in the Texas Pecos Trail, Ozona is the perfect water conservation, and the use of native I-10 stop between San Antonio and El Paso. plants. Plants are part of our heritage and the trail system can help us preserve and respect their contribution to our everyday lives. They provide food, fiber, shelter, and are used for medicinal and ceremonial purposes.. Plants play a key environmental role for pollination, feeding livestock, and oxygen. Ozona The trail includes a Rain Harvest Exhibit developed by the Agri-Life Exten- ZONA’S TOWN SQUARE is one of beauty, charm and warmth. This is a sion Office. There you will find signage on spot for locals and visitors alike. Just relax and enjoy the feel and sound the process of collecting water for livestock, landscaping or at-home use. Inside the Visi- of a West Texas breeze rustling through tall pecan trees, or the sound tor Center are resource materials on how to of music from the Gazebo. The square is home to the Tie That Binds actually build your own Rain Harvest site. Sculpture, a memorial to pioneer families, and to the Davy Crock- With over 231 plants, over 45 have ett Monument whose name the county seat bears. A monument in been signed and included in a brochure his honor stands in Ozona’s Town Square where thousands of visitors that will take you on a self-guided tour stop for a photograph. around the trail. This brochure will enable O you to identify the plants and learn about

PHOTOS COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE their purpose. www.ozona.com

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55 Presidio played an important role in the Battle of Ojinaga, being the ODESSA GUADALUPE MTS. • site of Pancho Villa’s armory, located • on what is now Old Bridge Street. VAN HORN Presidio became a key supply line for y the Mexican Revolution, enabling the Presidio BIG BEND transfer of guns, ammunition and supplies from Texas to the rebels. During his frequent visits to Presidio, Villa stayed at the home of friends Amador and Estella Estrada, who lived on what is now Serria Street in Presidio. After the brief Battle of Ojinaga, which re- sulted in a resounding victory for Vil- la’s troops, the defeated “federales” fled in panic across the Rio Grande to Pre- sidio, leaving behind their weapons. In Presidio, the refugees surrendered to the U.S. Army and were eventually transported to the Fort Bliss Army Base in El Paso, where they were de- tained “for their own safety.” Two years after the Battle of Oji- naga, Villa, increasingly upset about U.S. support for the federal government of Mexican President Venustia- no Carranza, decided to attack a U.S. town along the border with Mexico. Originally, he told his inner circle that he would attack Presidio, but the actual attack was eventually made on Columbus, New Mexico. Visitors to Presidio can find out more about Pan- cho Villa and the Battle of Ojinaga from a special exhibit at Fort Leaton State Historical Site. Presidio’s prominent role in the Mexican Revolution is only part of the town’s unique and colorful history. Archeologists have found traces of dinosaurs roaming the region over 100 million years ago and thriving human settlements more than 1,500 years before Christ. There were humans living in what is now Presidio during the time Presidio of the Biblical Exodus and at the dusk Incredible wonders like no other place on earth of Egypt’s age of the pyramids. Span- await you in Presidio, Texas iard Cabeza de Vaca explored Presidio in 1535 AD, and in the late 1800s, the BY NOE TORRES area experienced raids by both Co- manches and Mexican bandits. t’s ONE OF THE STRANGEST sagas in the bizarre history of the Texas Big While students of history and ar- Bend region. In 1914, iconic Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa came to cheology find a wealth of information from which to choose, other visitors the Presidio area after accepting an offer from a Hollywood movie director enjoy simply spending time admiring, to film Villa’s planned attack on Mexican federal troops stationed in Ojinaga, photographing, and touring the majes- across the Rio Grande River from Presidio. The Battle of Ojinaga, as it came ty of the vast outdoors. The “view from to be known, turned out to be a watershed moment in the Mexican Revolu- here” is so magnificent that no film or I tion, and the movie, The Life of General Villa, helped Villa raise desperately- photograph can possibly do it justice, and one must experience it firsthand. needed money for his underfunded army. These unusual events were chronicled in Marvels abound, from the ghostly the 2003 movie And Starring Pancho Villa as Himself, featuring Antonio Banderas Chinati Mountains, where strange, as Villa. unexplained lights have been appear- ing almost every night since the 1800s, BRAD NEWTON 385 115 349 137 Must 176 ang MARTIN D ra w Shafter 385 ANDREWS 118 Andrews 176 Stillwell 115 67 Ranch 10 54 349 20 NEW MEXICO 128 EL PASO 180 Stanton 87 163 GUADALUPE 62 Midland Presidio MOUNTAINS 18 158 62 180 NATIONAL PARK Red Blu Nor Reservoir th Concho El Paso 302 302 158 GLASSCOCK LOVING Kermit Riv 158 er BIG BEND RANCH Soccorro WINKLER ECTOR Odessa Sterling City 302 Garden STATE PARK Heath BIG San Elizario City 87 Canyon CULBERSON Wink Study BEND 20 HUDSPETH Penwell MIDLAND 54 20 Butte 115 Te rlingua NATIONAL 1111 STERLING PARK REEVES WARD Monahans 349 UPTON 137 163 Lajitas Chisos Pecos REAGAN ARD TIME Basin Pecos River ARD TIME Crane 329 AND Lake Castolon Rio Grande AND 17 Toyah 10 CRANE 329 Village AIN ST 20 385 Rankin Sierra Blanca Imperial Big Lake

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ES BIG BEND RANCH STATE PY to the unbounded panoramic vistas formation about the UFO Festival is miniscule (less than 10% of the na- C PL PARK of the Big Bend Ranch State Park, at http://UFOborderzone.com. tional average), and the neighboring 118

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This massive park of almost Y PL whose 300,000 acres unveil spectac- In addition to the Presidio area’s town of Ojinaga is also among the Eagle Pass T ST T E S 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” KFOO S AC MI

ular sights, including the state’s sec- history and natural features, many safest in Mexico. You can travel these BL MPRO O 118 C COMMERCE ST ond tallest waterfall, Madrid Falls. v isitors simply enjoy the magni ficence beautiful, wide-open spaces without and features trailheads, small recre- T Piedras 277 A ST

ation areas, primitive camping and D Fort Davis ESCALERO S Fans of the unexplained will find and freedom of exploring the great the worries associated with visiting M National Negras COMPROMISE river access points. Historic 17 ST a treasure trove of paranormal activ- outdoors in cars, on motorcycles, other, larger border towns. Prepare Site 118 ity in the area, including the reported on mountain bikes, in river rafts, or yourself for an immersive journey of www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/bigbend/ crash of a flying saucer northwest of using other forms of transportation. relaxation, discovery, and wide-eyed COA FM 170 WEST — CHWHIP LN Presidio in 1974, the recovery of a For years, the area has been a trea- wonder. Let Presidio, truly one of CAVA LR Y LN D 1S T ST RATT LESNAKE LN MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO 2ND ST non-human skull called the “Star sured gem for motorcycle enthusiasts our nation’s hidden treasures, serve as 3 R T ST D BLOYS AV E ST FOR 4T RUIDOSA AND CHINATI H ST

Child” in nearby Chihuahua, the from throughout the country. They your base of operations. Y DR 5TH ST E S

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SA art - plus many other astonishing mountains and rugged beauty. Those St. Francis Plaza, a walled gar- the historic Sagrado Corazon Mission, SGT GONZ 17 118 tales. In celebration of its paranormal who prefer to ride the waves rather den with benches and fountains, which was built in 1914, and cantinas roots, Presidio hosts the Border Zone than motorcycles will find abundant is dedicated to the contributions of that serve beer and wine in the eve- Franciscan Missionaries to Presidio International UFO Festival each river rafting opportunities on the nings. Also at the end of FM 170 is 1 mile October. The 2014 event will be held Rio Grande, as the scenic river winds and Ojinaga. Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not October 24 & 25 and features one its way slowly past rugged canyons seen by most visitors. of the world’s most renowned UFO and lofty mountains. Jeep tours and B FORT LEATON STATE researchers, Nick Pope, along with mountain biking also serve to bring HISTORIC SITE The Chinati Hot Springs features con- other speakers. For 21 years, Nick visitors up close and personal with Visit a massive, fortified adobe stant 110 degree, mineral-rich waters was in charge of the British govern- wonders that words fail to describe. trading post dating from the 1840s. which have been regarded for their ment’s “X Files,” investigating UFO Visitors to the Presidio area need Interpretive exhibits highlight area his- healing qualities for well over 100 years. sightings, crop circles, alien abduc- not be concerned about their safety, tory. Day-use only. Fees are charged for baths, cabins, and Fort Stockton tions, and ESP. He has been called as this is one of the safest areas in www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/fortleat/ camping. The graded dirt Hot Springs a real-life Fox Mulder. Complete in- the United States. The crime rate is Road heads north from FM 170 just past Ruidosa. www.chinatihotsprings.com

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1 mile SHAFTER E Twenty miles north of Presidio Events Presidio Business Directory on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining FOURTH OF JULY The Presidio Municipal Development District (PMDD) town. Extensive ruins are visible, The Fourth of July Celebration in 507 W. O’Reilly St. • 432-229-3517 xt 106 Presidio is held at Daly Park. Vendor though fenced against trespassing. Presidio Tourism Department booths and activities are planned. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver 507 W. O’Reilly St. City Hall • (432) 229 3199 • www.presidiotx.us mine operated by Rio Grande Silver Celebrating our nation’s birthday with mine. a fun-filled evening of free games, free swimming, food, music and of OJINAGA, MEXICO course fireworks! (432) 229-3517 F Places to Stay Big Bend Telephone An easy drive across the 106 Fernando Daly St. International Bridge, Ojinaga 2014 Border Zone INTERNA- Three Palms Inn Telephone and Internet service 1200 N. Erma Ave welcomes visitors with a variety of TIONAL UFO FESTIVAL (800)-592-4781 (432)229-3211 excellent restaurants and shops, a Friday, October 24 and Saturday, Big Bend Trucking October 25. This year’s Festival casual atmosphere, and friendly, Riata Inn Motel Box 892 helpful locals. The cultural museum features Nick Pope, a UFO expert who 99205 Hwy 67 N Trucking services is a must see on the road from the has been called “the real Fox Mulder.” (432) 229-2528 (432)295-1136 International Bridge. www.ojinaga. For 21 years, Nick was in charge of the com British government’s “X Files,” inves- Bullet Transport tigating UFO sightings, crop circles, 99203 Hwy 67 Shopping International transportation, ware- LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS alien abductions and ESP. & Services house services, long-term parking G Also scheduled to appear are au- La Junta de los Rios is a historic (432)-229 4427 farming and trading areas at the thors Noe Torres and Ruben Uriarte, A & C Furniture junction of the Rio Grande (celled Rio whose 2007 book Mexico’s Roswell, 403 E. O’Reilly St. Dollar General Store del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio put Presidio, Texas, on the “UFO Furniture and mattresses 1304 W. O’Reilly St. (432)-229-2882 Discount store Conchos. map” by disclosing an amazing flying saucer incident that occurred within (432) 229-4284 Alco Discount 50 miles of Presidio. 1000 US Hwy 67 Dollar Tree H ELEPHANT ROCK & Department store 312 W. O’Reilly St. PROFILE OF LINCOLN DUDE OF THE DEAD MUSIC (432)-229-3166 Everything’s a $1 This bizarre rock structure can be FESTIVAL Discount Store viewed from Highway 67 just outside Oct. 24-25, 2014. Two days of camping All Aboard America Bus Line Downtown Laundry of Shafter. Another favorite rock and community, one day of music 102 W. Center St. 501 E. O’Reilly St. and festivities. novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be Passenger bus transportation Coin-op laundromat viewed from Highway 67 just north of http://dudeofthedead.net/ (432) 229-3003 Presidio. Editbody Fitness Arts Festival Alma’s Beauty Salon 902 E. O’Reilly St. 901 E. O’Reilly Indoor gym, exercise equip. I Presidio Aquatic The Presidio Arts Festival is inviting lo- Center & Sports cal artists, student artists, professional Men and women’s hairstyling and amateur alike, dance groups, and cuts Escontrias Brokerage Complex (432)-229-4566 or 432-294-1796 99011 Hwy 76 musicians, performers and cultural Go swimming at the new swimming Custom broker, long-term parking pool or catch a ballgame. In Presidio, organizations to participate in the Angell Expeditions (432)-229-4305 baseball is our local pastime. ninth annual Presidio Arts Festival. FM 170 West http://presidiotx.us This event is an annual celebration River trips, Jeep excursions and Family Dollar Store held the last weekend in March. guided tours 404 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3713 Discount store Presidio Port Of http://arts.presidiotx.us J (432)-229-3849 Entry Arevalo Tax Service U.S. Customs and Border FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS 302 W. Louvain Ave. Farmers Insurance Protection, open to Traffic 24/7. After Cabeza de Vaca’s visit, a number (432) 229 4385 507 US Hwy 67 Phone 432 229 3349, 99400 Highway of Spanish expeditions came to pres- Home & auto insurance, Mexico 67, PO Box 1959, Presidio, Texas 79845 ent Presidio County, the first in 1581. Alse Miscellaneous Store insurance 1120 O’Reilly St. (432)-229-2874 Check out the wait times updated The entrada of Juan Domínguez de Imports, cosmetics & household Mendoza and Father Nicolás López hourly: http://apps.cbp.gov/bwt/rss. goods First Presidio Bank asp?portList=240301&f=html in 1683–84 established seven mis- 601 N. Erma Ave. sions at seven pueblos along the river American Taxi Banking & ATM service FM 170 East (River in the La Junta area. In 1683 Father International transportation service (432)-229-3724 K road) López celebrated the first Christmas (432)-238-1366 or 1367 Nights: (432)-229-2641 Ft. Davis State Bank National Geographic magazine Mass ever observed in Texas at La Junta in modern day Presidio, Texas. 206 E. O’Reilly St. calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the Amistad Loan Co. Banking & ATM service “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North 100 N. Erma Ave. (432)-229-5000 America” It is a favorite touring ride Small loans for motorcycle enthusiasts. Ride to (432)-229-2417

Presidio! FROM TOP: UFO BORDERZONE.COM, BRAD NEWTON

58 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Glamor Bridal & Quince Montana Western Wear Triangulo West El Patio Restaurant 250 Gonzales St. 1120 O’Reilly St. Drive-Thru 513 O’Reilly St. Women’s formal gowns & dresses Western apparel 1400 Foothill Mexican & American cuisine (432) 229-3224 Cold beverages & beer to go (432) 229-4409 Harper Hardware 701 W. O’Reilly St. Payless Shoe Source UETA The Enlightened Bean Hardware, paint, plumbing 506 O’Reilly St. 1305 W. O’Reilly St. 201 W. O’Reilly St. (432)-229-3256 Footwear Duty-free liquor and perfumes Breakfast & lunch only, Indi’s Boutique (432) 229-2991 (432) 229-3766 sandwiches, espresso 701 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3131 Women’s clothing Pilo’s Thrift Store Valenzuela Mexico (432)-229-3798 1300 O’Reilly St. Insurance El Changarrito Thrift Store items 99203 Hwy 67. 402 Texas St. Karina’s Discount Store Mexican auto Insurance Mexican food & burgers to go 103 E. Commerce St. Presidio Lumber (915) 493-4288 (432) 294-2357 Clothing & accessories store 502 W. O’Reilly St. (432)-229-4767 Hardware and lumber Velasco Dump & La Cabana (432) 229-3320 Backhoe Services 700 E. O’Reilly St. L & S Warehouse 1209 Utopia Rd. Mexican & American cuisine 410 N. Belmont Presidio Medical Center Earth moving equipment, site prep. (432) 229-3368 Mexico export custom broker, 501 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3769 US Postal Services Health Services La Escondida (432)-229-4494 (432) 229-4246 WTG Fuels Restaurant & Bar 1508 E. Huckabee St. 1215 Utopia Rd. La Junta Insurance Presidio Taxi Propane tanks filled Beer & wine, American & 1403 O’Reilly St. Transportation service (432) 229-3614 Mexican cuisine Insurance, real estate, (432) 229-2959 (432) 229-2701 Mexico insurance Xtreme Wireless (432)-229-4621 Presidio Cable 700 W. O’Reilly St. Oasis Restaurant 511 O’Reilly St. Page Plus, AT&T and Verizon wireless 1200 N. Erma Ave. Las Flores de Van Gogh Internet & cable television provider sales & service Mexican & American cuisine 805 O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3805 (432)-229-3940 (432) 229-3998 Flowers & floral arrangements (432) 229-2414 Rainbow Self-Service Poncho’s Pizza N Video Laundry Places to Eat 307 E. O’Reilly St. M. Nieto Department 912 O’Reilly St. Pizza Store Coin-op laundromat Big A Mart (432) 229-2660 903 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3036 200 E. FM 170 Dry Goods, appliances, Convenience store, snacks & beer Presidio 67 and ranch supply Rosalba Vazquez (432) 229-4113 316 Jose Rodriquez St. (432) 229-3220 700 W. O’Reilly St. Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline Notary public R’s Restaurant and Bar (432) 229-4949 M & M Ramirez Store (432) 229-2573 1207 E. Millington St. on FM 170 E 705 O’Reilly St. Beverages, hamburger Presidio Thriftway Discount clothing RR Supply / True Value and appetizers 504 N. Erma Ave. (432) 229-3526 Hardware (432) 229-3388 Groceries, bakery, chicken, pizza 205 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3776 Mario Vargas Customs Hardware, plumbing Don Jose Panaderia House Broker (432) 229-2545 109 Erma St. Subway Sandwiches 409 W Rosedale Ave. Mexican Bakery, menudo, barbacoa 1309 Hwy. 67 Custom services, long-term parking Santa Fe Cabinets (432) 229-3424 Sandwiches, salads, pizza, soups (432) 229-4902 405 E. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-2505 Custom made wood cabinets D’Charly Restaurant Maverick Finance (432) 229-2995 100 Market St. of Texas Mexican taste & tradition 709 E. O’Reilly St. SoLange Hair Salon (432) 229-2600 Small loans, tax preparation 300 W. O’Reilly St. (432) 229-3686 Hair design DY Convenience Store (432) 295-0871 104 E. O’Reilly St. Melrose Family Fashions Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline 502 W. O’Reilly St. Sotelo Iron Works (432) 229-4488 Clothing department store Custom welding, grills, benches (432) 229-2955 (432) 229-4040 or (432) 940-2116

Presidio Municipal Development Presidio, Texas Passport to District supports our local Discover great commerce opportunities! businesses with this directory. Brilliant Success! Presidio Municipal International Border Crossing Development District Tx.us & Commercial Trade Zone PresIDIo P.O. Box 3329, Presidio, TX 79845 Safe and convenient access to Mexico and the US. www. (432) 229-3517 • email: [email protected]

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55 On the first Saturday of No-

ODESSA vember, over 10,000 “chiliheads” GUADALUPE MTS. • convene in Terlingua for two an- • VAN HORN nual chili cook-offs: the Chili Ap- preciation Society International and

BIG BEND the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler y Terlingua World Chili Championships. These events have come to personify Ter- lingua and spread the reputation of this small village worldwide. Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, Terlingua but it is the economic hub of the area. Many stores and amenities cater to tourists and locals alike. If you’re & tired from hiking and camping, you may even opt for an air-conditioned STUDY BUTTE room at Big Bend Resort.

Attractions

HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND THE TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN On Highway 170, five miles west of 118, Terlingua Ghost Town holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area, restored as shops, restaurants T and homes. Favorite stops include the Starlight Theatre and the front porch of the Trading Post. www.ghosttowntexas. com

ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE A stunning driving tour of the western side of Big Bend, the loop passes many favorite trail heads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction. HE DISCOVERY of cinnabar, from which the metal mercury is extracted, in the mid-1880s brought miners to the area. The only remnants of the BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK mining days are a ghost town of the Howard Perry-owned Chisos Mining If you’ve made it this far, Big Bend Na- Company and several nearby capped and abandoned mines, most notably tional Park is probably on your itinerary. the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. The Terlingua and Study Butte is a great area from which to base your national park mineral terlinguaite was first found in the vicinity of California Hill. T adventure. The cinnabar was apparently known to Native Americans, who prized its brilliant red color for body pigment. Various Mexican and American prospectors CONTRABANDO gained access to the area through new train lines and there was also a decreasing Contrabando was built as a movie set threat of hostile Indians. The population of Terlingua in 2000 was 267. Due to its in the mid-’80s for the film Uphill all the Way. It is within Big Bend Ranch State proximity to Big Bend National Park, Terlingua/Study Butte is mostly a tourist des- Park, five miles west of Lajitas on High- tination. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and mo- way 170. Since 1985, the site has been torcycling are some of the outdoor activities favored by tourists. No trip is complete used as a set for nine movies including without a trip into what they call the “ghost town” of Terlingua. From the famous Lone Star, as well as Dead Man’s Walk and trading post front porch, you can get a good view of the Chisos Mountain formation Streets of Laredo, which were part of the Lonesome Dove miniseries based on the in Big Bend called “Mule Ears.” It will be easy to see why, once you’ve spotted it. novel by Larry McMurtry. After that, dinner (and possibly a show) at the Starlight Theater is must. NATALIE PATTILLO

60 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES Lodging www.lajitasstables.com/index.html [email protected] B.J.’S RV PARK (800) 887-4331 / (432) 371-3064 Hwy 170 W., 8 miles from Big Bend Offering guided horseback rides for National Park, 1 mi le east of Terlingua almost 30 years! Join us in the Fron- Ghost Town. tier Lands of the Chihuahuan Desert (432) 371-2259 next to Big Bend National Park, along www.bjrvpark.com Scenic Rio Grande and atop the Close to restaurants and music, pet mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in friendly, Wi-Fi, full hookups, 50 amps. Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, Half or All Day & Multiple Days. BIG BEND RESORT & ADVENTURES Three miles from western entrance to Events Big Bend National Park. (432) 371-2218 / (800) 848-2363 CAMINO DEL RIO — RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL www.bigbendresortadventures.com THE RIVER ROAD (432) 557-9477 CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP Lodging, gift shop, food and conve- Highway 170 along the Rio Grande www.rioaviation.com Chili Appreciation Society Inter- nience store. is a favorite among travelers with Rio Aviation Specializes in scenic national’s annual event is held at several camping areas, river access flights over some of the most Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the points and trailheads along the way. spectacular country along the Rio north side of Highway 170, 11 miles At places the road becomes narrow, Grande, including Big Bend Ranch west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the winding and very steep, making it State Park, Big Bend National Park, 47th Annual Championship on the difficult for some RVs, buses and and the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic first weekend of November. The fes- trailer rigs. river. Tours include a birds eye view tivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and of some of the most spectacular wings contests. There is live music RIDE THE RIO GRANDE features in the area including the entertainment on both Friday and Terlingua/Study Butte is the jumping Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon, and Saturday nights. www.chili.org off point for your river adventure. the Devils Playground. Flights are The area boasts a number of experi- conducted in a Cessna 205. The TERLINGUA GREEN SCENE enced outfitters that will make your plane can accommodate up to four The Terlingua Green Scene consists LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ trip, whether it be by raft, canoe or of groups of like minded citizens in MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK kayak, fun and safe. the Terlingua community promoting Off Hwy 170; (432) 424-5000 a “Green Lifestyle” by supporting a www.lajitasgolfresort.com number of “Green” projects such as The full-service resort in Lajitas is Outfitters & the Community Garden, the Farmers also home to a beautiful 18-hole Tours Market , Recycling and the yearly golf course, a world-class equestrian Green Scene Festival. center and an outfitter service for all ANGELL EXPEDITIONS your hiking, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking and outdoor activity needs. (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787 RIDE 4 TRAILS Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 www.angellexpeditions.com The annual Ride 4 Trails Motorcycle sites, including 60 full-service pull- Full-service outfitter serving the passengers comfortably, and the Rally is a fundraiser to support the throughs and 18 primitive wilderness greater Big Bend area. River rafting, high wing configuration provides trails program in Big Bend National campsites for those interested in canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hik- an excellent platform for flightsee- Park. Bikers from all over the country having a true rustic tent camping ing, mountain biking and camping. ing and photography. Rio Aviation converge on Big Bend Resorts & Ad- experience. Agava Spa, located inside Single and multi-day trips available, was founded by retired Ranger ventures to participate in a weekend resort, offers massages, facials and tailored to your interests and sched- Marcos Paredes and his knowledge of live music, poker runs and great body treatments. The gift shops are ules. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor! of the area and emphasis on safety Texas barbecue — all to support assure an enjoyable and memorable the construction and maintenance located in an Old West promenade, adventure. of hiking and stock trails in the an eclectic mix of shops. Only full- park. The evening of Oct. 18 (2014) service resort near Big Bend Ranch features a Texas-themed dinner with State Park and National Park. BBQ brisket, sausage, cobbler for desert plus all the trimmings, fol- HOLIDAY HOTEL lowed by dancing with live music. Located between Study Butte and Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town. (432) 386-0021 www.bigbendholidayhotel.com Sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Lovingly restored suites, casitas, and family suites. FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTSEY BIG BEND RESORTS, COURTESY RIO AVIATION, COURTESY CHARLIE ANGELL

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 61 GUADALUPE MTS. • y ODESSA Toyahvale • ALPINE

BIG BEND Toyahvale & BALMORHEA

BALMORHEA STATE PARK In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restora- tion, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and am- phibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground.

BALMORHEA LAKE Only two miles south of Balmorhea, on The waters of San Solomon Springs surface at County Road 319 (Houston Street), this 600- Toyahvale, where the 1.75-acre spring-fed acre lake – stocked seasonally with a variety of fish – is a popular destination for birders. swimming pool at Balmorhea State Park pro- A $3 visitor fee is payable at the lake store. RV vides visitors with a welcome opportunity for spaces and picnic areas are available. Swim- refreshing recreation in the desert. The spring ming is not allowed. flows 22 to 28 million gallons of water per day. CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toy- ahvale on Highway 290. The church, which HE POOL maintains a constant temperature of 72-76ºF, mak- served the area from around 1902 into the ing it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions 1940s, was restored in 2002. year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city The only outfitter by the park! Visit this full- park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between service dive shop for swim gear and to sched- T Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was ule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17, through waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass, is one of the prettiest snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies in the region. you’ll need to make your Balmorhea State Park visit fun, safe and memorable. WILL VAN OVERBEEK COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION

62 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Attractions ODESSA GUADALUPE MTS. • y GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS Van Horn NATIONAL PARK Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives BIG BEND in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state – Guadalupe Peak at 8,749 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 22 for much more information on Gua- dalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo

THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike.

CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The Museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflect- ing the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays Van Horn showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad, and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged Van Horn is the crossroads of the to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old Texas Mountain Trail. western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. AN HORN WAS estab- way between Fort Stockton and El www.clarkhotelmuseum.com lished in 1881, when the Paso. Of the many area attractions, a Texas and Pacific Rail- large number of visitors to Van Horn Lodging way came through. Be- are those heading up to Guadalupe fore that, it was a stop- Mountains National Park and on HOTEL EL CAPITAN ping point for travelers to Carlsbad Caverns just across the 100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 on the Old Spanish Trail Texas/New Mexico border. Many www.hotelelcapitan.net V and the San Antonio-El choose to stay in the newly remod- The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 Paso Overland Mail route. eled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of based on designs by notable architect Today, Van Horn is the county the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the seat of Culberson County, sitting part of the country. The El Capitan El Capitan is even more superb than at the helm of the western portion is a newly remodeled gem of historic in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and of the region, almost exactly half- architecture. suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar. BETH NOBLES

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 63 Photography in the Big Bend Region

S IT ANY WONDER the Big Bend region draws photog- grandeur, remoteness, rich history and dramatic ecological diversity raphers from all corners? With its combination of desert has created an almost mythic status with visitors who find their way and majestic landscapes, the dramatic canyons of the Rio there. This is a bold landscape with constantly changing views — a Grande, the spectacularly eroded Chisos Mountains and playground of light, rugged mountains, rolling desert hills and deep remnants of pioneer ranch life, Big Bend presents a wealth river canyons that create endless intrigue. Sunrise and sunset allow of subjects to the photographic eye. Add early morning and the opportunity to watch and photograph light dancing across the I late evening sunlight, summer thunderstorms and clear, rock faces millions of years in age. In short, Big Bend offers photog- star-spattered night skies, and the photographic opportunities are raphers scenic opportunities not available elsewhere. simply irresistible. Located in far West Texas, the region embraced In the following pages we will feature the photography of Mar- by the big bend of the Rio Grande is one of the most remarkable athon-based James Evans, whose famous far West Texas images are areas in the country. It’s also one of the few places left in America showcased in two of his books: Crazy from the Heat and Big Bend where a person can almost literally get away from it all. Big Bend Pictures. In addition there are photos from various residents and National Park is several hundred miles from any large city, and the travelers with their thoughts on shooting in the Big Bend region.

64 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Photography in the Big Bend Region

IN DECEMBER 2013 I celebrated 25 years of living in and photographing Big Bend and West Texas. The deci- sion for me to move here was the one of the best I’ve ever made. I am starting to know myself very well. It’s helping me grow into the kind of person I want to be and has opened the door to the kind of photography and art I want to explore. I never wanted to make photographs or books of the area like I had seen previously. What interested me from the beginning was the kind of person that chooses to live here and to photograph them in a way that captured that spirit. My first book, Big Bend Pictures took that concept into con- JAVELINA sideration more than the landscape. I James Evans am very proud of it, and it is currently in its third printing. My second book Crazy From The Heat explores my approach to making photographs, and that is simply whatever I find interesting that day. It’s a widely varied body of work. I try to keep my artistic mind open and it is important for me to keep challenging my abili- ties, and my comfort zone. This area provides me with more inspiration and ideas than I will ever be able to complete. I also process and print all of my own photographs. Half of the creative process is in the darkroom. I still print traditionally as well as digi- tally. I see my work as part documenta- ry, part historian, and part artist, and hopefully it all intertwines and says something about me and the time I lived on the planet. – James Evans

OCOTILLO AND STARS James Evans

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 65 Photography in the Big Bend Region

TULE MOUNTAIN James Evans

FIREFLIES James Evans

RAIN James Evans

66 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM OPHELIA FALCON & JIM CARRICO James Evans

When the Boquillas crossing was reopened last year Mike Long and Crystal Allbright brought Jim across the border to reunite with Ophelia. They had not seen each other since the closing after 911.

SUNSET 1 James Evans

BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 67 Photography in the Big Bend Region

BIG SKY Big Bend National Park as the clouds roll in. I had to pull over and sit and enjoy the wide open beauty. Watching the clouds roll in out here is never boring, instead they make you feel alive. – Rachael Waller

SIERRA DEL CARMEN Big Bend, for me, is the most soul-grabbing and naturally inspiring places to experience. This photo was taken on a camping trip with my two-year old daugh- ter and our friends. It had been a long but amazing day of setting up tents so we headed for a soak in the Hot Springs that evening. We decided to pull over to watch the sunset. All of us are area locals but we were still in awe by Sierra del Carmen’s beauty.The vivid colors of the sky as the desert is preparing for the night is beyond captivating. The beauty here RIO BRAVO is everlasting and for that I am As a native of the state of New Hampshire we grateful.” – Natalie Pattillo run from our northeastern winters. West Texas is a special destination point for us. West Texas BOQUILLAS in the form of Big Bend National Park provides One of my favorite day trips in the Big Bend region is to go across the border to Boquillas, Mexico. Accessible a wonderful focal point for my photography: through Big Bend National Park, the border crossing was closed right after 9/11 and just reopened in April 2013. a way different color palette, mountains and It’s a small community, but there are ample photo opportunities. This shot was actually taken with my phone. I mountain ranges, the desert, and a riparian was testing settings when I inadvertently started a panoramic shot. During the pan, the child sat down next to (river) corridor. What more could one want! – me and by the time he was in the frame he was blowing up the balloon. – Stewart Ramser Steve McKinney

68 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Texas Mountain Trail A TRAVELER’S BEST FRIEND

HE FIRST MORNING in our Texas Mountain Trail Daily Photo blog the mountains is always the (www.texasmountaintrail.blogspot.com). We best. At dawn, you notice regularly post images of places you’ll want to the pink glow in the sky. visit, and experiences you’ll want to try. Hummingbirds hover above FESTIVALS AND FUN the prickly pear. Pronghorn graze. There’s a chill in the We’ve got the only region-wide events cal- air, and it won’t warm up for endar online, so when you’re planning your a few more hours. On the trip to the Texas Mountains, consult www. Tporch of your casita, coffee in hand, the city texasmountaintrail.com/events for the most melts away. Gone are the traffic jams, the up-to-date listings of festivals, performances, deadlines, and stress. You’ve got quiet here. tours, and community events. Community Adventure. Make the most of it. members post events themselves, and every- So unplug. Take the day at a slower pace. of our mountains, from the earliest geology to one is invited to participate. So if you’re look- Smile and say hello to folks. This is our home; ancient rock art, to the Comanche and Buffalo ing for what’s new in the Big Bend, and all the we love it here. And we’re eager to share it with Soldiers, to the adobe homes of early farmers communities of Far West Texas, including our you….that’s why we publish this guide. along the Rio Grande. Explore our forts, our gateway cities, check our calendar online. If this is your first visit, use it to craft your historic hotels, our county courthouses. BRING YOUR BIKE own personal escape in Big Bend, the Davis Mountains and beyond. MORE THAN HIKING Whether you’re interested in a leisurely after- If you’re a frequent visitor, we hope to Looking to explore the mountains on horse- dinner ride in our charming small communi- inspire you with a new place to eat, stay, hike, back? Hoping to find the best tacos in Far ties, or screaming down a challenging moun- explore. Our cities and small towns offer more West Texas? Want to know which musicians tain trail, Far West Texas is one of the great than you might think. are playing in the region? Check our website places to ride your bike. We’ve added a cycling Our Texas Mountain Trail wants to intro- (www.texasmountaintrail.com) for information section to our website to help you plan your duce you to the encyclopedic charms of the to help you plan your stay, as well as infor- stay, from heritage bike routes to cycle-friendly wildest, most rugged, beautiful, peaceful, his- mation about our work. And follow us on hotels, and connections to road- and mountain toric places in the country, and possibly the social media—on Facebook at (www.facebook. biking resources. Explore it all at www.texas- most purely Texan place in the state. com/TexasMountainTrail), on Twitter @trail- mountaintrail.com/bike. We also want to connect you with the history girl, and Instagram at @texastrailgirl, and on Are you looking for an easy ride for PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY BETH NOBLES

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the entire family? The quiet roads JOIN US and charming neighborhoods of Marfa, When you join as a member Fort Davis, Alpine and Marathon are of the Texas Mountain Trail, great places to explore by bicycle. Some you bring even more value to communities and some hotel proper- the region through heritage ties even offer bikes for rent. And our and adventure projects like “Ride to the Post Heritage Bike Route” the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail, the Peak Fitness is an easy 10 mile roundtrip adventure Challenge, heritage bike with very little elevation gain that just routes, cycle-friendly activi- about anyone can enjoy with ease…. ties, heritage storytelling proj- perfect for a family adventure. The ects and support for visitors ride starts at the historic Gage Hotel in and our mountain communi- Marathon, down a quiet paved ranch ties. And since we’re a 501 c road past geologic wonders, to Post 3 non-profit, your member- Park, an old Buffalo Soldier encamp- ship is tax-deductible! ment and an oasis for the Comanche How to join? Click the and Apache, and early miners and set- “Donate” link at the upper right of our homepage, www. tlers. Post Park is a great place to relax, texasmountaintrail.com! watch the birds and wildlife and enjoy the quiet of the mountains. Are you looking for challenge? Road cyclists might tackle Fort Davis’ rience the best of our region. Our Texas 74 mile Scenic Loop past famed Mountain Trail Hospitality Heroes McDonald Observatory, or our “El program was inspired by Van Horn Capitan to El Capitan Heritage Bike resident, Ralph Gilmore, who “never Route” from Van Horn to the base of met a stranger” and provided exemplary Guadalupe Mountains National Park. service at his Crossroads Coffee Shop. Three state parks in our region offer Ralph is still serving travelers as the terrific mountain biking opportunities, General Manager of the historic Hotel including Big Bend Ranch State Park, El Capitan, where his friendliness con- which is rated as an EPIC ride by tinues to impress visitors. the International Mountain Bicycling Association. One of only 44 trails Our honor roll of Hospitality Heroes worldwide earning this designation, includes: the park’s Sauceda Loop offers highly · Ralph Gilmore, Van Horn, Crossroads technical sections on single-track, old Coffee Shop, now at the Hotel El 4x4 and jeep roads, as well as easier Capitan for exemplary service and programming in Texas, including the FIND US sections alongside historic routes, old friendliness to travelers Texas Heritage Trails program cinnabar mines, ancient rock art, and · The City of Van Horn (City, County, www.texasmountaintrail.com old homesteads. School District, EMS/Hospital, Fire This year, three more awards will be There’s a select group of historic Department employees) and local presented to: hotels, tourist camps, bed and break- Texas Department of Transportation · Larry Staton, of Big Bend Resort and www.facebook.com/ fasts, resorts and chain motels ready employees for service to travelers when Adventures, for unfailing support of our TexasMountainTrail to provide special services to cyclists I-10 closes in bad weather Texas Mountain Trail programs through our Texas Mountain Trail · Hyatt Place El Paso Airport for exem- · Don Baumgardt, of Pinata Publishing, cycle-friendly hotels program. They plary service to travelers and to the the El Paso Visitors Guide, and www.twitter.com/trailgirl allow you to park your bike inside your development of our Texas Mountain GeoBetty.com for support of our Peak room, and may offer other services from Trail and the region, including our Fitness Challenge and adventure tour- packed lunches for your day on the cycle-friendly hotels program ism in the region www.instagram.com/ road, to sag services, updated weather · Bill Blaziek, retiring General Manager · Compadres Del Ranch Grande, texastrailgirl information and more. of the El Paso Convention and Visitors the friends organization of Big Bend We also work to support our com- Bureau for his years of service to the Ranch State Park, for support of the munities. This year, our Texas Mountain region award-winning El Solitario newsletter http://www.youtube.com/user/ Trail teamed with local cyclists and ·Glennda Merritt-Alcorn, Hudspeth TMTrail another non-profit organization to pro- County EMS, for her leadership in Now that we’re friends, we hope you’ll Special features: mote reading and safe cycling, and dis- upgrading emergency services in keep in touch with the mountains www.issuu.com/trailgirl tributed free books for schoolchildren Hudspeth County through our website, (www.texasmoun- in Terlingua/Study Butte, Fort Davis, · Marfa Public Radio, for life-saving taintrail.com) and our social media Alpine and Dell City. coverage during the 2011 wildfires communities on Facebook, Twitter, and · Barrett Durst and the staff of Big Bend Instagram. Mostly, we hope our Big RECOGNIZING OUR HEROES Ranch State Park for exemplary care of Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide One of our biggest joys is to recognize visitors during inclement weather inspires you to head our way again, with the special people who go above and · State Representative Dee Margo for all new adventures planned to explore beyond to make sure our travelers expe- FROM TOP: COURTESY BETH NOBLES, COURTESY VISITBIGBEND.COM championing preservation and heritage every corner of Far West Texas.

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Rise and Shine

Fort Davis native Glenn Moreland prepares an authentic cowboy breakfast on the grounds of the Fort Davis National Historic Site. The Fort, with the Davis Mountains in the background, is a picture-perfect location for an early morning dining experience. STEVE McKINNEY

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