&
RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RCREATIVE OFFICEi
SS15 MENS COLLECTIONS TREND:SS15 - OVERVIEW - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
SS15 was imbued with a languid, easy attitude. Menswear designers are rejecting formality and rigidity of form in favour of something altogether more fluid. Sportswear influenced almost every category; a reflection of how men live and dress today, and perhaps an indication of the growing sentiment that life is, in fact, a race.
Lost etrorum dit; C. Gul hac virmandit gra percessula nuntinte, que coenes Ad claripi entrit; non se acturnum nostrave, nimus perit. Grae nondeperi sulturn ihilla venIcia quis mosantes autem voluptae lam quiandanto vendi odiatem rempor amus quibus ullab iur rae renectam incietum debis volorec tibusdam am, quaspel inus ma dolluptae videl magnimo dolecep tatibus reperum nam quidem fugiti odit que endit, sam, que ped maximus, ut quidel in rerro eturem nim explignis dolorum quas eaquas ante volorehent faceped qui ut aceperio ipis moluptatum accum quo conseque doluptas simus, omnis maximolorum aute parumqui dio bla veniet voluptatibus voluptur? Ga. Et LINK PAUL SMITH 2 TREND:SS15: - RELAXED ELEGANCE - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
LANVIN BALENCIAGA RAF SIMONS BURBERRY3.1 PHILLIP PRORSUM LIM BURBERRY
Speaking at his show, Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver said “Men don’t change every season, even every year. What changes is their lifestyle. We always set luxury too high. Now men are on their bikes or on the metro or using Uber. They don’t wear a suit, or if they do, it’s different, with sneakers, and sleeves pushed up.”
3 TREND:SS15: - LONG LINE - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
ANDREA POMPILIO GIVENCHY NICOMEDE TALAVERA BURBERRYASTRID ANDERSEN PRORSUM YOHJI YAMAMOTO
An inescapable trend this season; the long, louche silhouette. Tops stretched to the thigh, shirt tails were elongated, skirt shapes covered shorts, and tunics grazed the knee. See also feathered trims at Paul Smith, long-line jerseys at James Long, leather tunics at Rick Owens. Neil Barratt, MMM and Off White also embraced this silhouette.
4 TREND:SS15: - OVERSIZED - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
ACNE DAMIR DOMA HAIDER ACKERMANN BURBERRYWOOYOUNGAMI PRORSUM GIVENCHYACNE
Overall, SS15 had a relaxed attitude and complimenting this was a sloppy, oversized silhouette. Acne championed this look. Meanwhile, oversized, dropped crotch shorts were emphasized by narrow blazers at Damir Doma, and Wooyoungami softened oversize proportions with fluid jersey.
5 TREND:SS15: - PYJAMA - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
MARNI GUCCI HAIDER ACKERMANN BURBERRYDRIES VAN PRORSUMNOTEN GIVENCHYERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Nothing talks of a relaxed attitude more than pull-on pyjama pants as daywear.
6 TREND:SS15: - SILK SATIN - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA COMME DES GARCONS DOLCE & GABBANA BURBERRYPAUL SMITH PRORSUM GIVENCHYJONATHAN SAUNDERS
Silk satin in every hue gave a fluid edge to suiting.
7 TREND:SS15: - SOFT METALS - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
Y3 RICHARD NICOLL DKNYNASIR MAZHAR DRIES VAN NOTEN GIVENCHYCASELY HAYFORD
Designers touched on gentle, shimmering metals to add a luxe appeal to fluid fabrics. See also silver footwear at Rick Owens.
8 TREND:SS15: - DENIM OVERLOAD - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
KENZO ANDREA POMPILIO JUNYA WATANABE BURBERRYYOHJI YAMAMOTO PRORSUM GIVENCHY3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Double and triple denim featured so frequently this season that the audience audibly groaned as yet another look starred classic indigos. Yohji Yamamoto’s explanation for this was that he was tired of seeing jeans that looked “out of fashion”.
9 TREND:SS15: - PINSTRIPE - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
E. TAUTZ J W ANDERSON 3.1 PHILLIP LIM BURBERRYCASELY-HAYFORD PRORSUM GIVENCHYMATTHEW MILLER
Pinstripe surfaced time and time again this season but was unrecognisable as the quotidian City uniform. Instead, draping, sports shapes and graphic applications took pinstripe in an entirely new direction.
1010 TREND:SS15: - CHECKS - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
RICHARD NICOLL 3.1 PHILLIP LIM AMI BURBERRYJONATHAN PRORSUMSAUNDERS GIVENCHYJUNYA WATANABE
Fine-lined, simple checks and geometrics are a key SS15 message.
1111 TREND:SS15: - SPOTS - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
DAMIR DOMA DOLCE & GABBANA KENZO BURBERRYSIBLING PRORSUM GIVENCHYDRIES VAN NOTEN
From Damir Doma’s spot inspired by fallen orchid pollen to the densely uniform spots at Dries Van Noten, spots were bold and uncompromising.
1212 TREND:SS15: - EMBELLISHED SUITING - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
CHRISTOPHER KANE DIOR CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN BURBERRYALEXANDER PRORSUM MCQUEEN GIVENCHYMOSCHINO
Suits were few and far between on the catwalk, but when they did make an appearance, they were embellished head to toe with bold embroideries, graphic treatements and joyful colour. Always accessorized with a sneaker.
1313 TREND:SS15: - FLORAL - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
GIVENCHY MSGSM THOM BROWNE BURBERRYY3 PRORSUM GIVENCHYOPENING CEREMONY
Florals were presented as bold, head-to-toe statement looks.
1414 TREND:SS15: - ILLUSTRATION - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK SIBLING JW ANDERSON BURBERRYRICK OWENS PRORSUM GIVENCHYDRIES VAN NOTEN
Illustration is having a resurgence in the creative industries - a backlash against the explosion of generic photographic imagery favoured in the digital realm. Intarsias, hand embroidery and appliqué were all profiled here.
1515 TREND:SS15: - CUT AND PASTE - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
CHRISTOPHER SHANNON OFF WHITE BERTHOLD BURBERRYJAMES LONG PRORSUM GIVENCHYMARC BY MARC JACOBS
SS15 sees the zeitgeist turn to patching. Patches at Yohji Yamamoto and Marc By Marc Jacobs, patchwork at Junya Watanabe, applied strips of colour at James Long, and taped fragments at Christopher Shannon and Raf Simons.
1616 TREND:SS15: - SIMPLE SOLIDS - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
MATTHEW MILLER AGI & SAM CRAIG GREEN BURBERRYCALVIN KLEIN PRORSUM GIVENCHYRAF SIMONS
Solid, flat, head-to-toe colour made an impactful appearance, emphasizing the elongated silhouette. See also Dolce & Gabbana’s satin suited red army finale.
17 TREND:SS15: - PURITY - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
CRAIG GREEN AGI & SAM WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK BURBERRY3.1 PHILLIP PRORSUM LIM GIVENCHYDAMIR DOMA
Crisp poplins and unadorned shapes spoke of clinical precision.
1818 TREND:SS15: - TRANSPARENCY - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
ANDREA POMPILIO CHRISTOPHER SHANNON GIVENCHY BURBERRYMAISON MARTIN PRORSUM MARGIELA GIVENCHYKTZ
Many designers highlighted the body either by framing through cut-outs, or working with sheer layers and mesh panels.
1919 TREND:SS15: - BODY - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
THOM BROWNE KTZ BOTTEGA VENETA BURBERRYSIBLING PRORSUM GIVENCHYMOSCHINO
Unlike the skinny model we’ve become accustomed to, today’s casting was all about conspicuously pampered, buff physicality. This added further emphasis to fashion’s love affair with sports and the current athlete-as- superstar sentiment.
2020 TREND:SS15: - BALLET - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
BOTTEGA VENETA BOTTEGA VENETA RICK OWENS BURBERRYDRIES VAN PRORSUMNOTEN GIVENCHYDRIES VAN NOTEN
At Bottega Veneta, Thomas Maier name-checked Nureyev and Baryshnikov, Rick Owens cited Nijinsky as inspiration, and Dries Van Noten celebrated Rudolf Nureyev again (the letter R standng for Rudolf). A coincidence? Perhaps. But it marks the general move away from the “rock and cool’ attitude of late to something altogether more sensual and athletic. It’s work-out wear as high fashion.
2121 TREND:SS15: - INTROSPECTION - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
YOHJI YAMAMOTO RAF SIMONS JUNYA WATANABE BURBERRYGIVENCHY SS15PRORSUM GIVENCHYGIVENCHY SS09
This season, fashion’s heavyweights looked inside themselves for inspiration. At Yohji Yamamoto, signs tacked to the back of jackets advertised a lost cat, a lost dog, and then, a “Lost Yohji”. Riccardo Tisci went back to his roots reminding us of his first menswear show for Givenchy - a presentation of strict, puritan tailoring infused with sports references. Raf Simons drew on his personal history, presenting personal historical moodboards on the backs of coats and jackets - here an image of his parents courting 55 years ago, there, a picture of the roller coaster he and his friends rode decades ago. And, after seasons exploring the nuances of European workwear for inspiration, Watanabe returned to his native Japan looking at boro, a traditional Japanese patchwork. SS15 is a time for reflection.
2222 TREND:SS15: - WOMENSWEAR - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
KATIE EARY MOSCHINO GIVENCHY BURBERRYBOBBY ABLEY PRORSUM GIVENCHYSAINT LAURENT
The number of designers showing womenswear on mens catwalks increased again this season. However, more often than not, they presented an almost parodied idea of femininity. Often the womenswear felt weaker than the mens looks, or simply unresolved. Haider Ackermann and Jonathan Saunders stood out as two designers who’s looks translated well.
2323 TREND:SS15: - SETS - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
PRADA GIVENCHY
THOM BROWNE RAF SIMONS
Notable sets included OMA’s ironic swimming pool and brown carpet set for Prada, and Raf Simons’ horror movie inspired lighting.
2424 TREND:SS15: - AND FINALLY - RESEARCH & INNOVATION HUB RESEARCH & INNOVATION
SIBLING SIBLING CRAIG GREEN GIVENCHYCRAIG GREEN
Sibling’s final pieces were simultaneously humourous, joyful and brilliantly executed. This is knitwear as it has never been seen before. Craig Green’s show was widely hailed as a fashion “moment”, with Tim Blanks declaring “The Cult of Craig is about to explode”. Green’s first solo show at London Collections provoked an emotional response from the audience. Green himself dubbed the finale exodus as a “silent protest”, but left the meaning of his collection open to interpretation.
2525