Practical Use of Variational Principles for Modeling Water Waves
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Accurate Modelling of Uni-Directional Surface Waves
Journal of Computational and Applied Mathematics 234 (2010) 1747–1756 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Journal of Computational and Applied Mathematics journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/cam Accurate modelling of uni-directional surface waves E. van Groesen a,b,∗, Andonowati a,b,c, L. She Liam a, I. Lakhturov a a Applied Mathematics, University of Twente, The Netherlands b LabMath-Indonesia, Bandung, Indonesia c Mathematics, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Indonesia article info a b s t r a c t Article history: This paper shows the use of consistent variational modelling to obtain and verify an Received 30 November 2007 accurate model for uni-directional surface water waves. Starting from Luke's variational Received in revised form 3 July 2008 principle for inviscid irrotational water flow, Zakharov's Hamiltonian formulation is derived to obtain a description in surface variables only. Keeping the exact dispersion Keywords: properties of infinitesimal waves, the kinetic energy is approximated. Invoking a uni- AB-equation directionalization constraint leads to the recently proposed AB-equation, a KdV-type Surface waves of equation that is also valid on infinitely deep water, that is exact in dispersion for Variational modelling KdV-type of equation infinitesimal waves, and that is second order accurate in the wave height. The accuracy of the model is illustrated for two different cases. One concerns the formulation of steady periodic waves as relative equilibria; the resulting wave profiles and the speed are good approximations of Stokes waves, even for the Highest Stokes Wave on deep water. A second case shows simulations of severely distorting downstream running bi-chromatic wave groups; comparison with laboratory measurements show good agreement of propagation speeds and of wave and envelope distortions. -
Arxiv:2002.03434V3 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 25 Jul 2020
APS/123-QED Modified Stokes drift due to surface waves and corrugated sea-floor interactions with and without a mean current Akanksha Gupta Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, U.P. 208016, India.∗ Anirban Guhay School of Science and Engineering, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HN, UK. (Dated: July 28, 2020) arXiv:2002.03434v3 [physics.flu-dyn] 25 Jul 2020 1 Abstract In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident inter- mediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mech- anism is Bragg resonance { reflected waves generated via nonlinear resonant interactions between an incident wave and a rippled bottom. We theoretically explain the fundamental effect of two counter-propagating Stokes waves on Stokes drift and then perform numerical simulations of Bragg resonance using High-order Spectral method. A monochromatic incident wave on interaction with a patch of bottom ripple yields a complex interference between the incident and reflected waves. When the velocity induced by the reflected waves exceeds that of the incident, particle trajectories reverse, leading to a backward drift. Lagrangian and Lagrangian-mean trajectories reveal that surface particles near the up-wave side of the patch are either trapped or reflected, implying that the rippled patch acts as a non-surface-invasive particle trap or reflector. On increasing the length and amplitude of the rippled patch; reflection, and thus the effectiveness of the patch, increases. The inclusion of realistic constant current shows noticeable differences between Lagrangian-mean trajectories with and without the rippled patch. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Future Directions of Computational Fluid Dynamics
Future Directions of Computational Fluid Dynamics F. D. Witherden∗ and A. Jameson† Stanford University, Stanford, CA, 94305 For the past fifteen years computational fluid dynamics (CFD) has been on a plateau. Due to the inability of current-generation approaches to accurately predict the dynamics of turbulent separated flows, reliable use of CFD has been restricted to a small regionof the operating design space. In this paper we make the case for large eddy simulations as a means of expanding the envelope of CFD. As part of this we outline several key challenges which must be overcome in order to enable its adoption within industry. Specific issues that we will address include the impact of heterogeneous massively parallel computing hardware, the need for new and novel numerical algorithms, and the increasingly complex nature of methods and their respective implementations. I. Introduction Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) is a relatively young discipline, having emerged during the last50 years. During this period advances in CFD have been paced by advances in the available computational hardware, which have enabled its application to progressively more complex engineering and scientific prob- lems. At this point CFD has revolutionized the design process in the aerospace industry, and its use is pervasive in many other fields of engineering ranging from automobiles to ships to wind energy. Itisalso a key tool for scientific investigation of the physics of fluid motion, and in other branches of sciencesuch as astrophysics. Additionally, throughout its history CFD has been an important incubator for the formu- lation and development of numerical algorithms which have been seminal to advances in other branches of computational physics. -
Potential Flow Theory
2.016 Hydrodynamics Reading #4 2.016 Hydrodynamics Prof. A.H. Techet Potential Flow Theory “When a flow is both frictionless and irrotational, pleasant things happen.” –F.M. White, Fluid Mechanics 4th ed. We can treat external flows around bodies as invicid (i.e. frictionless) and irrotational (i.e. the fluid particles are not rotating). This is because the viscous effects are limited to a thin layer next to the body called the boundary layer. In graduate classes like 2.25, you’ll learn how to solve for the invicid flow and then correct this within the boundary layer by considering viscosity. For now, let’s just learn how to solve for the invicid flow. We can define a potential function,!(x, z,t) , as a continuous function that satisfies the basic laws of fluid mechanics: conservation of mass and momentum, assuming incompressible, inviscid and irrotational flow. There is a vector identity (prove it for yourself!) that states for any scalar, ", " # "$ = 0 By definition, for irrotational flow, r ! " #V = 0 Therefore ! r V = "# ! where ! = !(x, y, z,t) is the velocity potential function. Such that the components of velocity in Cartesian coordinates, as functions of space and time, are ! "! "! "! u = , v = and w = (4.1) dx dy dz version 1.0 updated 9/22/2005 -1- ©2005 A. Techet 2.016 Hydrodynamics Reading #4 Laplace Equation The velocity must still satisfy the conservation of mass equation. We can substitute in the relationship between potential and velocity and arrive at the Laplace Equation, which we will revisit in our discussion on linear waves. -
Variational Principles for Water Waves from the Viewpoint of a Time-Dependent Moving Mesh
Variational principles for water waves from the viewpoint of a time-dependent moving mesh Thomas J. Bridges & Neil M. Donaldson Department of Mathematics, University of Surrey, Guildford, GU2 7XH, UK May 21, 2010 Abstract The time-dependent motion of water waves with a parametrically-defined free surface is mapped to a fixed time-independent rectangle by an arbitrary transformation. The emphasis is on the general properties of transformations. Special cases are algebraic transformations based on transfinite interpolation, conformal mappings, and transformations generated by nonlinear elliptic PDEs. The aim is to study the effect of transformation on variational principles for water waves such as Luke’s Lagrangian formulation, Zakharov’s Hamiltonian formulation, and the Benjamin-Olver Hamiltonian formulation. Several novel features are exposed using this approach: a conservation law for the Jacobian, an explicit form for surface re-parameterization, inner versus outer variations and their role in the generation of hidden conservation laws of the Laplacian, and some of the differential geometry of water waves becomes explicit. The paper is restricted to the case of planar motion, with a preliminary discussion of the extension to three-dimensional water waves. 1 Introduction In the theory of water waves, the fluid domain shape is changing with time. Therefore it is appealing to transform the moving domain to a fixed domain. This approach, first for steady waves and later for unsteady waves, has been widely used in the study of water waves. However, in all cases the transformation is either algebraic (explicit) or a conformal mapping. In this paper we look at the equations governing the motion of water waves from the viewpoint of an arbitrary time-dependent transformation of the form x(µ,ν,τ) (µ,ν,τ) y(µ,ν,τ) , (1.1) 7→ t(τ) where (µ,ν) are coordinates for a fixed time-independent rectangle D := (µ,ν) : 0 µ L and h ν 0 , (1.2) { ≤ ≤ − ≤ ≤ } with h, L given positive parameters. -
Waves on Deep Water, I
Lecture 14: Waves on deep water, I Lecturer: Harvey Segur. Write-up: Adrienne Traxler June 23, 2009 1 Introduction In this lecture we address the question of whether there are stable wave patterns that propagate with permanent (or nearly permanent) form on deep water. The primary tool for this investigation is the nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS). Below we sketch the derivation of the NLS for deep water waves, and review earlier work on the existence and stability of 1D surface patterns for these waves. The next lecture continues to more recent work on 2D surface patterns and the effect of adding small damping. 2 Derivation of NLS for deep water waves The nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS) describes the slow evolution of a train or packet of waves with the following assumptions: • the system is conservative (no dissipation) • then the waves are dispersive (wave speed depends on wavenumber) Now examine the subset of these waves with • only small or moderate amplitudes • traveling in nearly the same direction • with nearly the same frequency The derivation sketch follows the by now normal procedure of beginning with the water wave equations, identifying the limit of interest, rescaling the equations to better show that limit, then solving order-by-order. We begin by considering the case of only gravity waves (neglecting surface tension), in the deep water limit (kh → ∞). Here h is the distance between the equilibrium surface height and the (flat) bottom; a is the wave amplitude; η is the displacement of the water surface from the equilibrium level; and φ is the velocity potential, u = ∇φ. -
0123737354Fluidmechanics.Pdf
Fluid Mechanics, Fourth Edition Founders of Modern Fluid Dynamics Ludwig Prandtl G. I. Taylor (1875–1953) (1886–1975) (Biographical sketches of Prandtl and Taylor are given in Appendix C.) Photograph of Ludwig Prandtl is reprinted with permission from the Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 19, Copyright 1987 by Annual Reviews www.AnnualReviews.org. Photograph of Geoffrey Ingram Taylor at age 69 in his laboratory reprinted with permission from the AIP Emilio Segre` Visual Archieves. Copyright, American Institute of Physics, 2000. Fluid Mechanics Fourth Edition Pijush K. Kundu Oceanographic Center Nova Southeastern University Dania, Florida Ira M. Cohen Department of Mechanical Engineering and Applied Mechanics University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, Pennsylvania with contributions by P. S. Ayyaswamy and H. H. Hu AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400 Burlington, MA 01803, USA Elsevier, The Boulevard, Langford Lane Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK © 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangements with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions. This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Answers of the Reviewers' Comments Reviewer #1 —- General
Answers of the reviewers’ comments Reviewer #1 —- General Comments As a detailed assessment of a coupled high resolution wave-ocean modelling system’s sensitivities in an extreme case, this paper provides a useful addition to existing published evidence regarding coupled systems and is a valid extension of the work in Staneva et al, 2016. I would therefore recommend this paper for publication, but with some additions/corrections related to the points below. —- Specific Comments Section 2.1 Whilst this information may well be published in the authors’ previous papers, it would be useful to those reading this paper in isolation if some extra details on the update frequencies of atmosphere and river forcing data were provided. Authors: More information about the model setup, including a description of the open boundary forcing, atmospheric forcing and river runoff, has been included in Section 2.1. Additional references were also added. Section 2.2 This is an extreme case in shallow water, so please could the source term parameterizations for bottom friction and depth induced breaking dissipation that were used in the wave model be stated? Authors: Additional information about the parameterizations used in our model setup, including more references, was provided in Section 2.2. Section 2.3 I found the statements that "<u> is the sum of the Eulerian current and the Stokes drift" and "Thus the divergence of the radiation stress is the only (to second order) force related to waves in the momentum equations." somewhat contradictory. In the equations, Mellor (2011) has been followed correctly and I see the basic point about radiation stress being the difference between coupled and uncoupled systems, so just wondering if the authors can review the text in this section for clarity. -
Arxiv:1903.11909V1 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 28 Mar 2019
Exact solution for progressive gravity waves on the surface of a deep fluid Nail S. Ussembayev∗ Computer, Electrical, and Mathematical Sciences and Engineering Divison King Abdullah University of Science and Technology, Thuwal 23955-6900, KSA Gerstner or trochoidal wave is the only known exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves on deep water. In this Letter we utilize Zakharov’s variational formulation of weakly nonlinear surface waves and, without truncating the Hamiltonian in its slope expansion, derive the equations of motion for unidirectional gravity waves propagating in a two-dimensional flow. We obtain an exact solution of the evolution equations in terms of the Lambert W -function. The associated flow field is irrotational. The maximum wave height occurs for a wave steepness of 0.2034 which compares to 0.3183 for the trochoidal wave and 0.1412 for the Stokes wave. Like in the case of Gerstner’s solution, the limiting wave of a new type has a cusp of zero angle at its crest. Background.—The water waves problem even in the tial evaluated on the free surface. The expansion coef- completely idealized setting of a perfect fluid is notori- ficients simplify remarkably for two-dimensional waves ously difficult from a mathematical point of view. This propagating in the same direction and the infinite series is one of the reasons we have very few explicit solutions can be summed in a closed form if the wave steepness to the fully nonlinear free-surface hydrodynamics equa- is small. From the stationary periodic solution of the tions despite extensive research over hundreds of years. -
Realistic Simulation of Ocean Surface Using Wave Spectra Jocelyn Fréchot
Realistic simulation of ocean surface using wave spectra Jocelyn Fréchot To cite this version: Jocelyn Fréchot. Realistic simulation of ocean surface using wave spectra. Proceedings of the First International Conference on Computer Graphics Theory and Applications (GRAPP 2006), 2006, Por- tugal. pp.76–83. hal-00307938 HAL Id: hal-00307938 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00307938 Submitted on 29 Jul 2008 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. REALISTIC SIMULATION OF OCEAN SURFACE USING WAVE SPECTRA Jocelyn Frechot´ LaBRI - Laboratoire bordelais de recherche en informatique Domaine universitaire, 351 cours de la Liber´ ation, 33405 Talence CEDEX, France [email protected] Keywords: Natural phenomena, realistic ocean waves, procedural animation, parametric energy spectra Abstract: We present a method to simulate ocean surfaces away from the coast, with correct statistical wave height and direction distributions. By using classical oceanographic parametric wave spectra, our results fit real world measurements, without depending on them. Since wave spectra are independent of the ocean model, Gerstner parametric equations and Fourier transform method can be used with them. Moreover, since they are simple to use and need very few parameters, they allow easy production of ocean surface animations usable in movies and games.