A look at the trends from New York…and what buyers praised in Paris.

COUTURE PARIS THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 WWD SPRING 2013 LOYALTY PLAN Saks Fifth Avenue Ups The Omnichannel Ante widen participation and strength- By DAVID MOIN en customer bonds. Free shipping, while costly, is another big step for- NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue ward for the luxury retailer. is advancing its omnichannel “This changes the game,” agenda by juicing up its SaksFirst Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and loyalty program and rolling out chief executive offi cer of Saks Inc., free shipping. told WWD. “We’re putting the focus It’s a response to a fast-changing on our core customer and have sim- industry where e-commerce con- plifi ed the SaksFirst program, help- tinues to boom, even after a disap- ing them to understand the benefi ts pointing holiday season; Amazon. and how valuable they are. com, eBay, Net-a-porter and other “It’s a bit unconventional” for pure plays are pushing harder and the luxury sector, he added. harder into the fashion world, and Among the changes: some retailers, such as Nordstrom I Anyone with a Saks card is au- and Macy’s, already have advanced tomatically in the SaksFirst loyalty omnichannel operations. program for free, making it more Saks does gain ground by mak- accessible. Previously, a $1,000 ing its shopping benefi ts more con- minimum spend was required. sistent across shopping channels, I Anyone shopping the Saks Off enhancing its SaksFirst program 5th outlet chain with the Saks card with a richer array of perks and re- can earn SaksFirst points. Off 5th wards and revised rules geared to SEE PAGE 8 A Secret Disservice ONE CAN JUST IMAGINE the countless sets of soul- ful, eager eyes. “Pick me! Pick me!” they surely cried out in longing. But in a moment — make that two mo- ments, one morning, one evening — hope died, and all but a few went back to their under-known, under- Beautiful loved status. How does Michelle Obama get a pass on the ridicu- lousness surrounding her inaugural wardrobe selec- tions? The whole thing would be merely silly and un- Bridget Foley ’s dignifi ed if it weren’t so disrespectful of the time and And Bold resources of others, some of whom have little of both Diary at their disposal. No, the headline isn’t a mistake. While the beauty of The First Lady’s wardrobe has often captured the public fancy and that of the press as well (interest ebbs and fl ows de- Valentino’s white lace gown is obvious, its bravado is pending upon the First Lady). WWD started covering White House fash- more textured. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri ion with the two Mrs. Wilsons (Woodrow Wilson’s fi rst wife Ellen Axson and Pierpaolo Piccioli have forged a path that fl ies in Wilson died in 1914; he married Edith Bolling Wilson the following year). SEE PAGE 6 the face of current high-profi le eveningwear norms, at least where the red carpet is concerned. And let’s face it, when it comes to couture, the red carpet is a major consideration. In the exquisite collection the designers showed on Wednesday, they dared to embrace discretion, employing major coverage for maximum impact. For more couture, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013

Tod’s Revenues Tick Ahead 7.8% THE BRIEFING BOX In 2012, the Tod’s brand re- $256.4 million, mainly driven by IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI mained the group’s core business, the double-digit performance reg- with sales of 569.7 million euros, istered in the U.K. and France. MILAN — Gains in Asia and the or $729.2 million, up 16.8 percent Revenues in the U.S. gained U.S. and a strong performance from the year before. Hogan and 30.8 percent to 81.6 million euros, Backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show. of the Tod’s and Roger Vivier Fay continued to be affected by or $104.4 million, despite the brands contributed to a 7.8 per- the group’s strategy to rationalize significant impact of Hurricane cent rise in 2012 preliminary the number of its wholesale cli- Sandy and fourth-quarter figures. revenues at Tod’s SpA, despite a ents in Italy. The two brands are Asia and the rest of the world drop in domestic sales. not as developed outside Italy as showed a 48.7 percent jump to In the period ended Dec. 31, the Tod’s and Roger Vivier labels. 297.3 million euros, or $380.5 the Italian luxury group posted Hogan sales totaled 243.4 million million. In particular, the com- preliminary sales of 963.1 million euros, or $311.5 million, regis- pany highlighted “outstanding euros, or $1.23 billion, compared tering a 13.3 percent drop from results” in Greater China, which with 893.6 million euros, or $1.24 last year, and Fay, which is still accounts for about 19 percent billion, in 2011. mainly a domestic brand, showed of total sales, and which counts ACHARD Dollar amounts have been sales of 74.5 million euros, or 54 directly operated stores and converted at average exchange $95.3 million, down 15.2 percent. three franchised units. Tod’s also rates for the periods to which Conversely, Roger Vivier reve- singled out “significant” increas- DELPHINE they refer. nues more than doubled, reaching es in Korea and Japan. BY Diego Della Valle, chairman 74.5 million euros, or $95.3 mil- Citi luxury analyst Thomas and chief executive officer of lion, compared with 36.5 million Chauvet said in a research note PHOTO the group, parent to the Tod’s, euros, or $50.7 million, in 2011. issued on Tuesday that “against Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier all odds,” and despite the group’s Saks Fifth Avenue is advancing its omnichannel agenda by brands, said he was “deeply sat- exposure to Italy at the beginning juicing up its SaksFirst loyalty program and rolling out free isfied” with the company’s per- of 2012, Tod’s shares were among shipping. PAGE 1 formance in the year, “despite the best performers in the luxury the challenging environment.” 30.8% sector in 2012 and highlighted the How does Michelle Obama get a pass on the ridiculousness Della Valle explained the de- company’s “interesting and rapid surrounding her inaugural wardrobe selections? PAGE 1 cline in domestic sales by say- TOD’S U.S. REVENUE INCREASE transformation phase, which ing: “Given the strength of our should support revenue and mar- Gains in Asia and the U.S. and a strong performance of the brands, the macroenvironment in gin expansion,” without a “radical Tod’s and Roger Vivier brands contributed to a 7.8 percent rise Italy and the strong demand from The group’s core category, transformation of the strategy.” in 2012 preliminary revenues at Tod’s SpA. PAGE 2 the foreign markets, we have de- footwear, showed a 9.9 percent The research note raised the cided to make our Italian whole- rise in sales, which reached 710.4 question of whether Tod’s could Shares of Coach Inc. slid 16.4 percent Wednesday to $50.75, sale distribution even more se- million euros, or $909.3 million. be an acquisition target. LVMH after the handbag maker revealed lower-than-expected lective, in order to preserve our Leather goods and accessories Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton second-quarter earnings. PAGE 2 brands’ exclusivity and products’ rose 14.2 percent to 165.5 million chairman Bernard Arnault has positioning.” euros, or $211.8 million, while ap- had a 3.5 percent stake in Tod’s Looking ahead, the executive parel declined 15.1 percent to 86.2 since its flotation in 2000, and Four new editors in chief are sending out their important said he was confident about the million euros, or $110.3 million. Della Valle has been on LVMH’s March issues, so what kind of bump did they manage to PAGE 3 group’s net profit in 2012, which “The sales performance by re- board since 2002. “We believe that achieve? he believed “will be higher than gion reflects the group’s strategy family ownership (and major- the outstanding level reached to focus its growth on the foreign ity control) is unlikely to change With China’s new leadership pledging to toughen up on the previous year,” based on the markets, mainly the Asian ones, in the short to medium term, al- corruption, luxury brands that have been thriving there may be “favorable sales mix — by distri- which offer higher growth poten- though it may be tempting for the in for a bit of a slowdown. PAGE 3 bution channel, by region and by tial, while being highly prudent controlling Della Valle family to product category.” on the domestic market,” said consider a share placement given Hennes & Mauritz said Wednesday it would be staging its first Full 2012 figures including the company. the strong share price perfor- fashion show in eight years on Feb. 27 on the sidelines of Paris profits will be released March 13. Italy showed a 14.5 percent mance in 2012,” the report said. Fashion Week. PAGE 7 In the fourth quarter, revenues drop in revenues to 383.9 million Tod’s shares closed up 0.88 amounted to 213.2 million euros, euros, or $491.4 million. Sales in percent at 103.2 euros, or $133.6 at Andrée Putman, who died this past weekend at the age or $275 million, up 9.6 percent Europe, excluding Italy, rose 10.1 constant exchange, on the Milan of 87, was given an intimate farewell Wednesday at the from the same quarter in 2011. percent to 200.3 million euros, or Stock Exchange on Wednesday. Benedictine Abbey of Saint Germain des Près in Paris. PAGE 8

Therunthrough.com, a B2B platform connecting the fashion press with established and emerging designers, will receive the Coach Shares Plummet After Q2 Report first Karen Harvey Business Innovator Award. PAGE 8

of the brand’s evolution. ended Dec. 29 edged up 1.5 per- By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD “We’ve been strengthening our cent to $352.8 million, or $1.23 Retailers said that men’s fashion week in Paris sizzled, teams to enhance and build out a diluted share compared with headlined by Hedi Slimane’s controversial, grunge-fueled return NEW YORK — Shares of Coach the Coach experience through year-ago income of $347.5 mil- to the fashion stage at Saint Laurent. PAGE MW1 Inc. slid 16.4 percent Wednesday product, retail environments and lion, or $1.18 a share. Sales for to $50.75, after the handbag integrated marketing,” the ceo the quarter grew 3.8 percent to Slim silhouettes, heritage brands, knitwear and outerwear maker said sagging holiday de- noted. “This holistic approach $1.50 billion from $1.45 billion. were key draws for retailers in town to shop the New York mand and increased competition will continue to add excitement The brand fell short of ana- market shows this week. PAGE MW1 in the accessories market con- and cachet to the Coach brand. lysts’ earning per share estimates tributed to lower-than-expected We’ve demonstrated the ability of $1.29 and revenue projections second-quarter earnings. The to offer a lifestyle assortment, in- of $1.60 billion. ON WWD.COM New York-based brand also regis- cluding categories such as outer While fewer markdowns kept tered negative comparable-store wear, shoes, jewelry, watches, eye gross margins flat for the quarter RUNWAY: See the latest runway, front-row and backstage images sales in North America for the wear and fragrance.” at 72.2 percent of sales, Coach’s from the couture shows in Paris at WWD.com/runway. quarter, marking only the third The evolution, which will be in refusal to cut prices contributed time in 11 years that it recorded full bloom by holiday 2013, puts to its 2 percent decline in quar- a negative comp. the company in even more direct terly comps in North America. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Chairman and chief executive competition with other lifestyle The only other times Coach re- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. officer Lew Frankfort told ana- brands such as Michael Kors corded negative quarterly comps COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. lysts on the conference call that and Tory Burch, both of which was in the second quarter of VOLUME 205, NO. 16. THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two the company experienced “weak- have chipped away at Coach’s 2002, following Sept. 11, and in additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance ness” in its women’s business still-dominant share of the North January 2009, following the fi- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, here and globally, due in part to American handbag market. nancial collapse. Nonetheless, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, “heightened promotional activ- Coach said the lifestyle push the flagging comps were offset by and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver ity,” which “built throughout the won’t impact future earnings, as strength in Coach’s internation- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North quarter” and “became aggres- it has “built in sufficient capi- al division, led by double-digit Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. sive” in department stores. tal to address store renovations same-store sales growth in China. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or Looking at the bigger picture, and new store concepts, and im- North American sales in- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine Frankfort said he’s focusing on proved and different fixturing.” creased 1 percent to $1.08 billion is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. “transforming” Coach into a Frankfort acknowledged the from $1.07 billion, as international You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt “global, lifestyle brand anchored challenge, as his brand took a few sales expanded 12 percent to $411 of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request in accessories.” Coach’s new stra- hits last quarter while it fought to million from $368 million last year. for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at tegic direction was first reported keep its prices steady amid a high- Frankfort said China is on www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that in WWD Wednesday. ly promotional holiday season. track to generate at least $400 we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Coach introduced Legacy, a He blamed the results on a con- million in sales this year. He also P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED dual-gender, upscale footwear, fluence of factors, ranging from said that Coach’s men’s division ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER accessories and apparel collec- the effect of Hurricane Sandy to is on course to earn sales of more UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR tion last year, which is a sort of news surrounding the fiscal cliff. than $600 million globally in fiscal DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A precursor to a fuller expression Net income for the period 2013, up 50 percent from last year. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD thursday, january 24, 2013 3 WWD.COM Stricter Corruption Policies Could Weigh on China Luxe last year that several high-end brands careful efforts to maintain social stabil- By Kathleen e. Mclaughlin had already reported slowed growth in Xi Jinping ity amid rapid economic and personal china, owing to signals that corruption wealth growth. BeiJing — With china’s new leader- might be curbed. in October, Bain & co. Patrick chovanec, an associate pro- ship pledging to toughen up on corrup- predicted a further slowdown in luxury fessor at tsinghua university’s manage- tion, luxury brands that have been thriv- sales in china in 2013 with some brands ment and economics school in Beijing, ing in this country — often thanks to the already showing signs of strain. said he believes the more troubling massive gray market in currying official On Monday, compagnie Financière issue for china is not the income gap, favor with expensive gifts — may be in Richemont Sa confirmed the specula- but rather an “inequality of privilege.” for a bit of a slowdown. tion, reporting that its asia-Pacific sales Many chinese people at the bottom of Since Xi Jinping was anointed head in the third quarter were flat compared the income gap are less concerned with of the chinese communist Party in with a year ago as a result of lower the chasm than they are with the concept november, paving his path to the presi- wholesale orders for watches and a later that the very wealthiest people in society dency in March, Xi and others have sent start to the chinese new Year this year have amassed fortunes based on fam- a series of signals that they intend to than in 2012. ily relations, personal relationships and clamp down on corruption, the systemic Starting last summer, the country’s s government positions. and unavoidable facet of china’s eco- ruling State council issued orders AGE “there’s a sense that there are peo- nomic model. in the past week, two key curbing local governments’ spending ple who live according to a different set tty Im E

points were revealed. First, Xi himself on trips abroad, vehicles and other /G of rules, that power begets wealth and spoke openly of the need to punish cor- high-ticket items. Observers have said p wealth begets power — that is what both- s/AF rupt officials, everyone from “flies” to “ti- the government crackdown on “bling” E ers people,” chovanec said. gers,” a metaphorical reference to going has resulted in less gift-giving to gov- Dai Jianzhong, a labor relations ex-

after top government leaders who are ernment officials, with watches one of Ed Jon pert at the Beijing academy of Social corrupt as well as the lowly ones often the favorite gifts to give. the edict was Sciences, said the bottom rungs of the used to make a point. aimed at reining in what has become a income data in china are populated with photo by “We must uphold the fighting of tigers very public sore spot for china’s govern- the country’s internal migrant workers, and flies at the same time, resolutely in- ment. the latest indications from Xi are rowed of late, that the statistics bureau the people who work low-end jobs that vestigating law-breaking cases of leading that the push against official corruption chose to release its data after so many build up the economy, but rarely share in officials and also earnestly resolving the won’t stop at local governments. years of silence on a volatile issue was the massive profits. unhealthy tendencies and corruption prob- Xi’s comments this week came just seen as significant by economists and Dai said income and household regis- lems which happen all around people,” Xi a few days after china’s surprising rev- other china experts. tration status have created what he con- said, in comments reported tuesday by the elation of the country’s income gap, the official numbers released by the siders a new social class system in china, official Xinhua news agency. releasing its own measure of the gini statistics bureau put china’s gini coef- similar to ethnicity. Discontent among eth- chinese media have reported for sev- coefficient — a global gauge of income ficient at 0.474, slightly down from last nic minorities is a lesser threat than that eral months that there has been a slow- inequality that china has not published year, which would place china roughly among the economically disenfranchised. down in luxury sales on the heels of hints since 2005. While there remains wide- on par with the u.S. By comparison, “it is because people have a different that the new leadership might strengthen spread skepticism about the figure and some earlier estimates placed it as high cultural identification [through their eco- its anticorruption efforts. caixin, an in- the fact that china’s national Bureau of as 0.6, which is a much steeper scale of nomic status],” said Dai. “i think these con- vestigative business journal, reported Statistics said the wealth gap has nar- inequality and could undermine china’s flicts will cause tension within society.”

director. Carol Smith continues candid, we’re not going to be that lisa axelson is designing to tell a good story at harper’s going after a significant amount clothes for real women.” Bazaar, which was up 21 of runway business. But we felt the hudson-helmed capsule MeMo pad percent to 330 pages. like we had a really strong case collection, which is her first W, under new publisher, to hang on to our endemic base foray into fashion design, will Lucy Kriz, reports 210 pages, up of advertisers while also using be available in ann taylor THE MARCH READ: a new editor 3 percent. that as a platform for other stores in May. in chief gives publishers a new teen magazines are seeing areas, like fashion,” he said. the actress, who’s made selling point for their magazines. surprising growth — teen — ERIK MAZA a splash portraying a dance this year, four new editor in Vogue has 124 pages, up 30 instructor on “glee,” will also chiefs are sending out their percent, while its hearst rival, KATE HUDSON’S CAPSULE join the advisory council for important March issues, so what Seventeen, saw a larger margin COLLECTION: Kate Hudson has re- ann inc.’s annpower Vital kind of bump did cosmopolitan, of growth, 66 percent, bringing signed for another season as the Voices initiative. the effort is a Marie claire, WSJ. and t: the its page count to 92. face of ann taylor, broadening partnership between ann inc., new York times Style Magazine the news was less flattering her role this time around with parent company of ann taylor, manage to achieve? at town & country, which lost a stint as a guest designer on a and the Vital Voices global among the two hearst corp.- publisher Valerie Salembier in capsule collection for summer. Partnership, which is aimed at

owned monthlies, Marie claire, . September and is now run by Working with , empowering young women to C Lisa Axelson In

under publisher Nancy Berger E Jennifer Levene Bruno — it’s down creative director at ann taylor, serve as global leaders. as part m

Cardone and new editor in chief tI 13 percent to 75 pages. glamour hudson helped create a lineup of the advisory council, hudson / Anne Fulenwider, built on last E is also down, 12 percent at 161 of looks inspired by her red- will help select grant proposals tyl year’s successful issue and was s pages, but the magazine was carpet style, reinterpreted for and serve as a mentor to the In

up 15 percent for 207 pages, sy coming off the strong numbers everyday occasions. high school-aged fellows of the the magazine will report to E of its redesign issue last March, “Working with ann taylor initiative.

Publishers information Bureau. Court whose overall page count has been a great creative the new spring campaign cosmo, which is now led by was the largest in four years. experience, and there is a breaks in early February Marie claire’s former editor InStyle’s March cover. Separately, it is also publishing really wonderful connection,” and was shot by Norman Jean Joanna Coles, and longtime at the other major fashion a supplement aimed at said hudson, who first appeared Roy at Milk Studios in los publisher Donna Kalajian Lagani, titles, March is a mixed bag, hispanic readers, glam Belleza in the retailer’s spring 2012 angeles. items featured in the saw a hefty increase as well though the news is mostly good. latina, which has 27 ad pages. campaign. “ann taylor is great advertising will be available in — 13 percent to 130 pages. Vogue is again a behemoth Former lucky publisher Marcy at creating iconic wardrobe 280 ann taylor stores and its traditionally, March hasn’t with 457 pages, up almost 3.5 Bloom closed March with 103 staples and updating them e-commerce site next month. been as important to cosmo as percent. no word yet on who pages, down three percent. season after season. i love — DAVID LIPKE to the other titles, but coles, landed the cover, although if “coming after the christmas who brought high fashion to history is a guide, it’ll likely be season, which wasn’t so good, Marie claire, is likely to steer a pop star — Adele and Lady Gaga i’m pleasantly surprised,” said the magazine in that direction. took the last two. Steve Cohn, editor in chief of For March, coles did three not too far behind is inStyle, Media industry newsletter, covers with Miley Cyrus, who’d lately time inc.’s only reliable which tracks ad pages. “the previously been a winner for bright spot — the issue, which numbers show domestic fashion her at Marie claire — her March features Michelle Williams, Rachel advertising is still strong, 2011 cover was that magazine’s Weisz, and Mila Kunis, stars of an continuing from 2012 when third-best seller of the year. upcoming revisionist version of fashion was strong but the rest of the luxury style magazines “the Wizard of Oz” — has 361 the magazine sector was weak.” from the daily papers are seeing pages, up 14 percent. also at the trend wasn’t lost strong fashion issues, which will time: People StyleWatch, which on Wired publisher Howard be out Feb. 16 for WSJ. and Feb. has Blake Lively on its cover, has Mittman, who has been pursuing 17 for t the new York times 172 pages, up 27 percent. brands that wouldn’t normally Style Magazine. t, now under elle, now officially hearst’s advertise with the technology Deborah Needleman, surged 23 biggest business behind cosmo, bible. Fashion contributed to percent to 132.5 pages, surely in has 338 pages, up 7 percent. a 16 percent bump in pages in no small part thanks to the buzz On the editorial front, Robbie the March issue, which clocks surrounding needleman’s hire. Myers and Ariel Foxman are also in at 52 — hermès and Ralph WSJ., now run by Kristina O’Neill, competitive — elle has snagged lauren have the back covers in formerly of harper’s Bazaar, saw Samira Nasr, inStyle’s style March and april. a 29 percent spike, to 65 pages. director, to be its new fashion “We recognize, just to be Kate Hudson in an ad from the spring campaign for Ann Taylor.

w24a003a;12.indd 3 1/23/13 8:31 PM 01232013203220 4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 Paris CoutureSPRING 2013

VALENTINO, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AND BOUCHRA JARRAR LOOKED TO GARDENS, INDIAN GYPSIES AND TERRIFIC COATS, RESPECTIVELY, ALL RESULTING IN STANDOUT SHOWS.

Valentino: Parks are officially Valentino Valentino the hottest things in high fashion. After Chanel’s forest set and Dior’s undulating boxwoods, Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli also took their couture collection down the garden path. This is neither a judgment nor a slight. Gardens are glorious, and the Roman duo nourished their theme with a distinctive Italian touch, from the spaghetti-like embroideries coiled on coats and dresses — echoing the curlicues on fancy metal gates and grills — to the imposing line of coronation robes that they built into minimalist gowns, a nod to the royals depicted in paintings by Italian masters. When a model stepped into the room sheltered by a black, birdcagelike cape made out of fabric tubes, the audience burst into spontaneous applause. The show was breathtaking. Chiuri and Piccioli are cultivating an intoxicating, covered-up approach to fashion that seduces with fragility and feminine grace, not skin. Ye t the spare precision cuts were resolutely modern. Sculpted, just slightly off- the-shoulder necklines Valentino gave a futuristic gloss to otherwise prim luncheon suits and coats, some bearing hawthorn embroideries. One long-sleeve gown in a glossy wool was blushed with a faint rose color and was void of detail but for a high, budlike neckline that cradled the head, the fabric peeling open ever so slightly at the back like petals. The designers went well beyond flowers for their garden escapade, using hedge labyrinths as a template for arranging strips of lace on a flaring Fifties skirt, or imagining dresses that could convey a park at night. They captured this idea poetically with a frothy bustier, the skirt a fog of black tulle embroidered with an outline of silvery birds flitting against a night sky. According to the program notes, it took 600 hours in the atelier. Backstage, Piccioli said he and Chiuri wished to convey lightness and the beauty of a garden, forgetting the labor that goes into creating the pieces. At the end of the show, house founder Valentino Garavani — whose castle in Wideville, France, is said to boast more than a million roses — stood to his feet and embraced his two successors with visible emotion. They are tending to his fashion legacy magnificently. WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Jean Paul Gaultier: “It feels like Jean Paul Gaultier Bouchra Jarrar a new beginning,” John Paul Gaultier told WWD recently while showing his pre-fall collection. He has many reasons to feel that way, including his recently signed deal with Gibò Co. SpA to again produce his women’s ready-to-wear. (The designer launched with Gibò 32 years ago.) The couture collection he showed suggested an impressive creative refresh as well. After allowing his brilliant wit and irreverence to descend into expressions of kitsch for too long, Gaultier here made an important statement about his will to be taken seriously while showcasing the talent that made him a star in the first place. Gaultier’s theme — Indian Gypsies — offered plenty of room to roam. Ye t this time he refused to let cartoonish instincts infringe on his message of pure haute, one signaled with the first look out, an amethyst and brown plissé jersey gown with a long braid in the back. It was a study in elegance. Gaultier played other such moments calm — voluminous white tunic and pants, a khaki shantung trench over a saffron gown — against more ebullient fare, the lavish embroideries, patchworks and pilings that at his best have the power to awe. Among his stunners: a glamazon mermaid in silver lamé and a crystal-embroidered skirt that put an Indian spin on Mondrian. Throughout, Gaultier alluded gamely to his greatest hits — trench, smoking, corsetry, cone bra included. And if he didn’t break new ground, who cares? Couture is about beauty and craft, of which this collection had plenty.

Bouchra Jarrar: Bouchra Jarrar’s daywear-driven collection crackled with modernity and Parisian chic — energized further with a dash of subversion. This is proving to be a combustible combination for a French designer carving out a unique and compelling point of view. From the opening looks you were riveted: jaunty sleeveless peacoats with military buttons, the armholes or lapels trimmed with beaver fur. These and other toppers, in rustic English felts or muted houndstooth checks, were paired with sleek tuxedo pants in midnight blue. There was a surfeit of terrific coats with loads of personality, each with an asymmetric element: a side closure, a sloping collar or a quarter moon of fur slung from one lapel. A sleeveless, inside- out shearling and a minimalist calfskin duster were each embellished with glossy leather in Mondrian-esque grids. FOR MORE In the market for the Rolls- COVERAGE, SEE Royce of sailor sweaters? Jarrar’s came in black-and-ivory, its funnel WWD.com/ neck festooned with a vertical runway. strap of silver buttons. It looked ravishing over cream trousers. Just as impactful was a dead- simple tank dress in midnight blue satin with a scooped back just slightly off-kilter. Or a chiffon T-shirt layered over a tank with necklines that don’t match up. Jarrar is something of a wizard with scarves. Striped ones crisscrossed over the body and caught with leather belts formed simple tips; others melded with the harnesses she incorporates in every collection. GIANNONI GIOVANNI Such subtle, precision details give Jarrar’s soigné clothes a subtle, futuristic allure — and an PHOTOS BY urgency that’s rare. 6 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 Fashion Pound Puppies

{Continued from page one} was rampant. WWD jumped in. The con- We all know about the press vivisec- crete wall slammed down. tions of Jacqueline Kennedy and Nancy You know the story: Isabel Toledo by Reagan. Through the years, a great deal of day, Jason Wu by night and suddenly, attention has focused on event dressing, Michelle Obama was patron saint of fash- both of the inaugural and White House ion’s emerging and offbeat. Four years wedding variety. later, Thom Browne and Jason Wu, again. “Breaking” the inaugural gown story — But before Thom and Jason, many design- that of whom would do the dress — hasn’t ers submitted looks. WWD reported more always been a big deal, not due to lack of in- than 15 did so; the rumors go as high as 30. terest but because the “who” wasn’t always Submissions included pieces created es- a state secret. Nancy Reagan — Galanos. pecially for Mrs. Obama and clothes from Barbara Bush — Scaasi. Somehow, some- current collections. where along the line, a playful The First Lady wanted to guessing game took on a veil of keep her looks secret until the secrecy that morphed into a lead big reveal, OK. The inauguration wall. There was a considerable wasn’t a wedding, so as far as we escalation surrounding Hillary know, no bad luck was involved Clinton’s inaugural choices. Still, in letting the news out. But fine. WWD managed to spring a leak Her choice. Yet why the secrecy twice; first, by reporting on her about the designer? Why not a Sarah Phillips gown six days in simple, elegant statement from advance of the 1993 event and, Mrs. Obama’s office in advance in 1997, citing the actual exit of the events? “Thom Browne number from Oscar de la Renta’s Bridget Foley’s and Jason Wu have designed most recent runway show. Laura Mrs. Obama’s inaugural outfits. Bush didn’t seem to care. In 2001, Diary Mrs. Obama has requested that her designer, Michael Faircloth, they decline queries from the was accessible, serving up an il- press.” Would Browne and Wu lustration well in advance. Four years later, ignore that request? Probably not. no sparks flew when WWD obtained and But let’s say Mrs. Obama enjoyed the pub- ran a sketch of her dress, this time by de la lic guessing game; she must, or it wouldn’t Renta, 10 days before the inauguration. have happened. The rampant speculation Michelle Mania has brought us to a should have been handled differently. First, whole other level of intrigue and control. how about having a prepared press person Four years ago, many forces converged that in play? WWD’s Rosemary Feitelberg was cast the Obamas as a high-chic glamour all over this story. Last week, she spoke to couple. Fashion fell in love with Michelle Semonti Stephens, deputy communications and her arms. The speculation of whom director for the First Lady, asking multiple she would wear to the inaugural activities specific questions about the process for de-

Michelle Obama in Jason Wu… PHOTO BY JUSTIN SULLIVAN/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY

termining Mrs. Obama’s inaugural ward- robe in front of a world. “I don’t mean to be difficult,” Stephens told her. “This is part of Mrs. Obama’s private life. We’re trying to help her [protect that.]” Really? Dancing on an enormous presidential seal at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center in front of a worldwide television audience is personal and private? And isn’t that dress destined to live in perpe- tuity at the National Archives? Does Mrs. Obama keep a hosiery drawer there? From the human standpoint, clothes should not have been solicited from so many people. That’s right, not brands, firms or houses, but people. Sketches, fine. Conversations, fine. But to have had so many designers put effort, resources and emotion into making clothes is just not nice. And 15 or more designers? What woman in search of an event dress has a short list of 15 favorites? Mrs. Obama isn’t an indulged starlet primping for the Oscars, nor should she be- have like one. Women everywhere have big events for which they select a single dress in advance of the moment. Some of those

women and some of those events are high- …and in Thom Browne. CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES profile. (See: Kate Middleton; wedding to presumptive future king.) minutes of attention she could have cut That Mrs. Obama will likely wear the the list to a couple of finalists. As it was, clothes procured as inaugural options Mrs. Obama’s fashion team needlessly in the future isn’t the point. None will disappointed and possibly misled many have the impact of those she chose for hard-working people, some of whom Monday’s events, nor of the clothes she hoped vainly for a much-needed com- wore early during the President’s first mercial boost. term; such is the sartorial downside of For those still hanging in there, 2016 incumbency. At the very least, with five will be here before you know it. WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 7 WWD.COM

said he managed to cram 100 outfit FASHION SCOOPS changes into the dozen episodes. Marie-Josée “But I think the real story should be Croze me getting fatter from the first episode to the last episode, because we were so RUNWAY RETURN: Hennes & Mauritz AB is Florence Foresti, and Abel Ferrara. overworked and I had no time to work upping its fashion quotient. The Swedish What was the “Bad Lieutenant” out,” he laughed. “If we do another high-street retailer said Wednesday it director doing at a fashion show? “He’s season: No early call time, no carbs and would be staging its first fashion show in a friend of mine, I mean why wouldn’t trainer must be included.” eight years on Feb. 27 on the sidelines I be here? It’s like you know, just Vittoria Puccini has been going through of Paris Fashion Week. H&M will unveil supporting the locals. I’m living here some costume drama of her own. The some 25 looks from its fall women’s now, so it’s not like I flew here from Italian actress stars in a two-part collection, under the creative direction New York, although I woulda flew here adaptation of “Anna Karenina,” due to of head of design Ann-Sofie Johansson, at from the moon for Jean Paul. I woulda screen on Italian television channel Rai1 the Musée Rodin, which has previously came from Mars to be here,” Ferrara next fall. — J.D. hosted catwalk shows for Yves Saint rasped in his signature Bronx drawl. Laurent and Dior. “We felt excited about His appetite for sulfurous subject the collection and we really wanted to matter appears to be intact: Ferrara show it,” said spokesman Håcan Andersson. said he was planning a film based on Excluding its high-profile designer the Dominique Strauss-Kahn sex scandal, collaborations, the retailer last held a starring Gérard Depardieu — who’s been catwalk show, featuring women’s and getting his share of news headlines FEUGÈRE STÉPHANE BY PHOTO men’s designs, in New York in 2005. In lately — as the disgraced former head Harlech, who is filming “Spite &

November 2010, it enlisted the likes of of the International Monetary Fund. FEUGÈRE STÉPHANE BY PHOTO Malice: Rules to Filmmaking,” which is Pixie Geldof and Dree Hemingway to model Ferrara’s neighbor interrupted loosely based on Lucian Freud, said she the one-off Lanvin for H&M collection the conversation. “I’m sorry, it’s my occasionally gets to borrow clothes from at a special event in New York. British first time here, was that Catherine the wardrobe of her mother Amanda Harlech, fast-fashion chain Topshop regularly Deneuve?” the young woman asked, the longtime muse and collaborator of Karl shows its Unique collection on the pointing at the French screen legend. Lagerfeld, “only under strict supervision. runway during London Fashion Week. That prompted a reporter to ask: She can even tell if I’ve gone into her tights — JOELLE DIDERICH Was she Ferrara’s daughter? “It’s my drawer and borrowed a pair of Wolford girlfriend, bro, what kind of filthy stockings; she is meticulous.” CALL HIM DAD: Terry J. Lundgren will be question is that?” Ferrara exclaimed in Further down the aisle, actresses Marie- lunching with former President Clinton outrage. “My father is much younger,” Josée Croze and Clotilde Courau chatted about on June 11, when both are honored as the woman noted with a smirk. — J.D. their latest projects. Croze said she’s about Fathers of the Year by the National to head to Montreal to shoot Denys Arcand’s Father’s Day Council. Lundgren, ALL ABOUT BROWNE: Months before Michelle “Deux Nuits” (or “Two Nights”). “I heard chairman, president and chief executive Obama gave Thom Browne the honor of Valentino it’s minus-30 over there, so wish me luck,” officer of Macy’s Inc., has two daughters. wearing his designs to President Obama’s Garavani she said, with a shiver. Courau has been He will receive the award at the 72nd inauguration Monday, the designer preparing a special homage to Edith Piaf to annual Father of the Year luncheon quietly agreed to accept another one mark the 50th anniversary of the legendary at the Grand Hyatt New York Hotel. — this year’s Pratt Visionary Award. singer’s death. “L’Etre Intime” (or “The Proceeds from the lunch will benefit Browne will pick up his prize April 25 at FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH: Proving that style Intimate Self ”), which is to be staged at Save the Children’s U.S. Programs. a double-barreled event. Senior fashion may be hereditary, a number of glittering Paris’ Le Tarmac theater later this year, Dan Orwig, chairman of the National students will show their stuff at the offspring filled the front row at the Elie will see the actress, accompanied by an Father’s Day Committee, and vice school’s fashion show at Center548 in Saab show Wednesday, among them the accordion player, read 12 love letters written president and group director of the New York and then a party with Browne Brant brothers, Anouchka Delon and Tallulah by Piaf to a mystery man named Tony. men’s division of Itochu Prominent, said will follow at The Top of The Standard. Harlech. When asked whether it was more “She was a very complex woman. She Lundgren was chosen for “his role as Previous honorees include Hamish of a burden or blessing having such a had a dark side, but also this incredible an inspirational and dedicated father, Bowles, Catherine Malandrino, Fern famous father (Alain Delon), Delon junior, light. Right through to the end she had as well as his outstanding philanthropic Mallis, Narciso Rodriguez, Carmen Marc who is about to embark on a European the twinkling eyes of a five-year-old girl. efforts and distinguished career. He Valvo and Diane von Furstenberg. tour with the play “Une Journée She was very much a punk, just like Amy embodies the passion, leadership and — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Ordinaire” (or “An Ordinary Day,” in Winehouse and all those kinds of singers true devotion to both his family and English), said: “It opens up a lot of doors, since,” said Courau. “No matter what she career that is celebrated by this award.” TO THE SUNSHINE STATE: The Council of but then again the expectations are so went through, she had faith. Hers really “I am honored to be a Father of the Fashion Designers of America’s “Impact: much higher, which isn’t so easy.” was a message of love.” — KATYA FOREMAN Year,” Lundgren said. “I have always 50 Years of the CFDA” exhibition is believed in the importance of balance in going on the road. After launching at the life — being actively involved at home Fashion Institute of Technology last year, as well as in the business. I have a great it will now be on show at the Boca Raton relationship with my two daughters, Museum of Art from Tuesday to April both of whom have developed into 21. The Florida showing is sponsored accomplished, well-rounded young in part by Neiman Marcus and will women. I am extremely proud of them. launch with a black-tie gala event at the For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. I also have done my best over the years museum on Saturday. to encourage other men — friends and Afterward, the fashion exhibition, colleagues — to spend quality time which showcases garments of CFDA with their families. My own father was designers from the council’s 50- one of my heroes and role models. He year history, will move to Las Vegas, taught me the value of perseverance and though those details are still being Spaces hard work. He was a kind and gentle determined. — MARC KARIMZADEH man, but he also knew when to practice COMMERCIAL tough love when I needed focus and BEST IN SHOW: With awards season in REAL ESTATE attention. Through the Father’s Day full swing, Livia Firth is busier than ever Development Director SALES MANAGER Cremieux Menswear seeking business Well known womens’ apparel manufac- Council, I hope to pass forward some of getting celebrities to take part in her Development Director with executive turer in need of an individual with pro- my own experience as a father, and I am Green Carpet Challenge. She admitted sales experience to oversee and guide ven ability to manage a sales team; Po- the execution of all licensing develop- sition requires excellent analytical, delighted to support Save the Children, it would be hard to top last year’s ment. Contacts beneficial. Please communication, follow up skills, with which does extraordinary work.” Oscar ceremony, where Meryl Streep 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes email cover letter, resume, and refer- established relationships with stores. ences to [email protected] Send resumes to: Menswear Showrooms [email protected] — JEAN E. PALMIERI accepted her statue for best actress in D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 a Lanvin gown made from sustainably produced fabric. Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS But the Italian wife of Colin Firth has Great ’New’ Office Space Avail set her sights high. “I always say that ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 I dream one day of having the whole Oscar red carpet [wearing] only Green Carpet Challenge [outfits] and to point the finger at the people who are not

PHOTO BY FRANCOIS GOIZE FRANCOIS PHOTO BY wearing it,” she said at the Valentino couture show in Paris on Wednesday. Valentino Garavani, the founder of the New York Embroidery Studio label, said he would not host a party Embroidery, Laser Cutting & Embellishments Full service shop to the this season at his castle in Wideville, trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or Abel Ferrara and his girlfriend. near Paris. “In wintertime, I never [email protected] give parties. I love to show it when it’s PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS CINEMA VÉRITÉ: The front row at Jean Paul full of beautiful flowers and green in Full service shop to the trade. Gaultier’s show felt like a reality show summertime,” he said. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 waiting to happen. Sandwiched together Cameron Silver revealed he finally has were Catherine Deneuve; Spanish actresses a start date for his Bravo reality show, Paz Vega and Rossy de Palma; Amanda Lear, set around his vintage store, Decades, the former Salvador Dalí muse-turned- in Los Angeles: March 6. Silver, whose (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] camp disco diva; French stand-up comic hair was dyed to match his surname, 8 WWD thursday, january 24 , 2013 WWD.COM Saks Raises the Ante on Omnichannel {Continued from page one} Saks officials said revamping SaksFirst lar spent, depending on whether a cus- is steadily adding locations and has be- was a big project lasting several months tomer uses a Bloomingdale’s card or a come a very profitable part of Saks inc. and involving consumer surveys and focus “Bloomingdale’s Reserve Card,” which n Free shipping is available all the time groups. it may have also involved a great- is issued to someone who spends $3,500 on any purchase made with the Saks card er sensitivity to the competition. in a calendar year at Bloomingdale’s at either Saks Fifth avenue or Off 5th, or years ago, neiman marcus Group stores or outlets or online. Those paying on saks.com. dropped the minimum spend required to cash at Bloomingdale’s receive one point On the downside, free shipping means become a member of its inCircle loyalty per dollar spent. each point is worth 0.05 higher costs for Saks, potentially affecting program. everybody who has a neiman percent of a dollar. profitability. But the costs could be offset marcus card is automatically a member according to Sadove, Saks has “hun- by the higher sales volumes that are an- of the program. With inCircle, shoppers dreds of thousands” of Saks cardholders, ticipated. Previously, there was free ship- earn two points for every dollar spent but he declined to specify. Saks sold its ping for SaksFirst customers ordering on- and receive a $100 gift card for every proprietary credit card operation in 2003 line. in the Saks stores, free shipping had 10,000 points. The more they spend, the to HSBC, which was later acquired by been offered only to “platinum” level Capital One. customers (those spending $10,000 and encouraging the use of store cards up via the card during the course of a is important because it enables retail- year) and “diamond” customers (those ers to capture customer data, which spending at least $25,000 via the card). is critical to target marketing custom- SaksFirst members will have access ers. Over the past few seasons, Saks to “a whole series of events, programs has been stepping up its target mar- and special offers including exclusive keting efforts. as Sadove explained, products, early access to new designer there could be targeted events offer- goods and meet-and-greets with de- ing extra points on shoe purchases, or signers. This is less geared to price handbags, to incent specific shopping promotions,” Sadove said. “There will behavior. each quarter, Saks typically be very little of that. it’s more geared has several broad promotions offer- Saks' Stephen I. to experiences and early access.” ing double or triple points. That will Sadove is advancing an JOHN AQUINO The tier structure of the SaksFirst continue along with more targeted omnichannel agenda.

program remains unchanged. When double- and triple-point days, focused PHOTO BY anybody opens a card account, they’re on certain categories. automatically at the “premiere” level, a campaign spotlighting how design. Those signing up for the new without any expenditure required, SaksFirst has been revamped, called SaksFirst card will receive a $25 gift card earning two points per dollar spent. “love at First Swipe,” launches through the promotion period. When cardholders spend $5,000 to The SaksFirst campaign features illustrations by Sunday with print advertising, and On Tuesday, customers who check in $10,000 in the course of a year, they Mats Gustafson. with “5 days of Firsts” at Saks Fifth on Facebook at Saks will receive a free qualify as “elite” customers, earning avenue’s manhattan flagship. On yogurt on the fifth floor of the flagship. four points per dollar spent. That’s fol- more benefits they receive, including monday, $100 gift cards will be given to The next day, the store will provide free lowed by the platinum level, which earns perk cards for such things as free park- the first 500 Saks card customers to ar- same-day delivery in new york City for six points per dollar spent, and the dia- ing, jewelry repairs, invitations to spe- rive at the store. There will also be spe- SaksFirst members until 3 p.m. mond level, where they still earn six points cial events, or picking a day to go shop- cial offers on saks.com, where the first 500 On Jan. 31, SaksFirst members will but receive more offers and advantages. ping to earn double points. neiman’s has people placing orders via the card will get receive 1,000 bonus points on their first each February, a Saks gift card is six benefit levels, all the way up to the a promo code for $100 off their next pur- purchase of the day, and there will be a mailed out, with a dollar amount, based chairman level, when a shopper spends chase. The campaign includes artwork by launch party for all Saks cardholders. on points accumulated during the prior at least $600,000. fashion illustrator mats Gustafson for ads On Feb. 1, Saks cardholders will receive year, indicated. One percent of the points Bloomingdale’s also has no mini- and visuals inside Saks stores. double points on beauty purchases. is the dollar value of the card. So, for ex- mum spend to accumulate points. The Those who already have a Saks card, “The role of points is extremely im- ample, if 10,000 points have been earned, Bloomingdale’s “loyallist” program or those signing up for SaksFirst, will portant,” Sadove said. now it’s easier for a customer gets a $100 gift card. provides three or four points per dol- be issued a new card with a sleek black Saks customers to earn them.

Runthrough to Win An Intimate Farewell for Andrée Putman Karen Harvey Award By Paulina Szmydke PaRiS — andrée Putman was By david mOin given an intimate farewell Wednesday at the Benedictine THeRunTHROuGH.COm, a B2B platform connect- abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. ing the fashion press with established and emerging it was in the neighborhood designers, will receive the first karen Harvey Business where the interior designer, innovator award at today’s Rising Star awards luncheon who died this past weekend at organized by The Fashion Group international. the age of 87, had spent all her “People talk about great ideas all the time. The truth colorful life, mingling with the is no idea is really great unless it can be executed,” said likes of Pablo Picasso, Simone karen Harvey, chief executive officer of the karen Harvey de Beauvoir, Georges Perec and Consulting Group. “This award is acknowledgement of a alberto Giacometti. great idea with great potential and exceptional execution.” Some 250 people gathered to E

Therunthrough features more than 30,000 accessories pay their respects and exchange r from 85 designers including Gucci, michael kors, Pamela anecdotes about a woman they MAIT love, kara Ross and de Beers. There are 350 editors and described as smart, engaging stylists around the world using Therunthrough, from pub- and fun. lications like Glamour, lucky, inStyle, Brides, vogue, elle The setting was as minimal- DOMINQUE

and elite Traveler. Therunthrough offers virtual look- ist as Putman’s signature style, BY Jean-Charles and Guilhem Vincent Darré and book tools, image management, and an invitation-only which consisted of “black on black, de Castelbajac Inès de la Fressange

member directory. leather perfecto, high heels and PHOTOS Therunthrough had its beta launch in July 2011 and plenty of jewelry, mostly large was started by meggan Crum and mandy Tang, both for- necklaces and lots of bangles,” re- “People don’t realize how influen- very mysterious all the time and mer accessories editors. They conceived the site as a called martine Sitbon, the design- tial she was, not just in the world very deep. Small talk was not her tool to facilitate the procedure of wrangling samples for er behind Rue du mail. “She was of design but fashion. François thing,” he said. shoots between market editors and design houses and to androgynous and feminine at the Hollande should be here.” The simple coffin in blond wood replace the old ways using paper look books and requir- same time — very couture, but in a The French president did not was flanked by two large vases ing multiple showroom visits. “it’s really about connect- modern way.” show, but Jack lang, for whom filled with white rose blossoms ing brands and editors in such a really well-executed “What Coco Chanel was to Putman designed an office when mounted into large balls of flowers. way,” Harvey said. fashion, andrée Putman was to he was France’s culture minister, in large letters, the ribbon read The karen Harvey Consulting Group specializes in design,” said Jean-Charles de came. lang remembered the late “karl lagerfeld.” Putman had de- executive search, professional development, instructing Castelbajac, whose career Putman designer for “her singular talent signed the interiors for lagerfeld’s executives on presenting creative visions and strategies, helped jump-start when as a young to decipher the codes of space homes and boutiques. and brand incubation. “in our search for talent, we believe man he managed to box his way before she transformed them…. Other attendees included that our clients rely on us to identify emerging talent and through to her to show her three of Her name was synonymous with isabelle Huppert, Christian very high-performing business leaders,” said Harvey. his early sketches. elegance, refinement, harmony louboutin, Farida khelfa, didier karen Harvey, Saks Fifth avenue and inStyle sponsor “it’s so great that you’re here,” and intelligence.” and Sylvie Grumbach, dominique the Rising Star awards, which recognizes up-and-coming exclaimed ines de la Fressange industrial designer José levy issermann, arielle dombasle and designers and executives in fashion, beauty and retail. at the sight of a WWd reporter. compared Putman to “a sphinx — Bernard-Henri lévy.

w24a008a;6.indd 8 1/23/13 8:14 PM 01232013201518 January 24, 2013

LIGHT FANTASTIC

CAMPUZANO Buyers Laud LUIS

Cityscape BY Paris Creativity

STYLED In Fall Season Heritage brands continued Hedi Slimane’s debut at to dominate the New York BERNARDO; Saint Laurent seen as the market as venerable labels breakout star of the season.

reached back into their pasts ROSEMARIE for inspiration for fall. But BY byWWD STAFF

while fabrics and graphics MAKEUP PARIS — Headlined by Hedi Slimane’s con-

AND troversial, grunge-fueled return to the fashion may have had their roots stage at Saint Laurent, men’s fashion week in in history, the looks were HAIR Paris sizzled, retailers told WWD. “My overall impression of the Paris collec-

updated for a contemporary MODELS; tions is that there is a tremendous amount of creativity and individuality, giving us lots of op-

customer. For more on the FORD

AT tions for our customers,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, New York shows, see executive vice president of designer merchan- dising at Nordstrom Inc.

pages MW2 and MW3. CANNATA Echoing many other buyers, Kalinsky lauded the skinny, androgynous rocker look Slimane TRAVIS proposed: “Everything he does is influential.” Retailers cited an upbeat mood in the

STUDIO; French capital, with many planning to increase budgets by double digits thanks to youthful and newsy collections. SANDBOX “We are all unanimous in our feeling that

WITH there is something going on here and we want to invest in it,” said Eric Jennings, men’s fashion MCKAY director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “This is clearly a very directional city and I think the market and SCOTT men are ready; especially men in the United BY States. I think he’s going to be catching up with

PHOTO what’s been going on in Paris for a while.” Statement outerwear of all varieties, skinny and wide-leg trousers, and printed and intarsia sweaters were among the strongest items, with quilting and contrasting fabrics among other interesting details. Collections by Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Valentino and Dries Van Noten received wide praise. Paula Reed, group fashion director of Harvey Nichols, said her budget is up by about 20 percent for men’s wear in Paris, on the back of 50 percent growth in the men’s sector over the past two years. “It’s not just London — our regional stores have evolved a strong regional clientele,” she noted. Here’s more of what buyers had to say:

Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Barneys New York: Sound off: “Paris was teeming with energy; the collections have their finger on the pulse of what young guys want. The most electric pre- sentations were Saint Laurent Paris, Givenchy and Balmain; these three collections are razor sharp in their approach to getting sexy, young guys into these clothes.” Trendspotting: “The key trends are geared for the urban dandy. The key elements are black leather, biker, skinny trousers and jeans, military coats — both oversize and slim. Among all this tough stuff, there is always an element of chic tai- lored clothing; always a sharp black or gray flan- nel suit, interpreted in a very young silhouette.” On Saint Laurent: “The long-awaited return of Hedi Slimane has exceeded our expectations. He gave us a strong collection that is right for the times; a mood of authenticity blended with the urban sensibility that excites our clients.”

Tancrède de Lalun, merchandise manager Pendleton, The for men’s and women’s wear, Printemps: Portland Collection’s Sound off: jacket, shirt and “Our budgets are up as men’s wear pants all in wool. continues to perform well for us. We are about to make additional renovations to our first floor to bring in some contemporary brands. However, we remain cautious in light of the dif- ficult economic context.” Trendspotting: “There was a dandified attitude in general. The silhouettes suggest a man is {Continued on page MW4} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 Men’s Week Outerwear, Knitwear Drive Trends at New Yo rk Market by DAVID LIPKE and JEAN E. PALMIERI At Agave, that meant tapered fits and jean-trouser hybrids were key silhouettes for fall, as well as her- SLIM silhouettes, heritage brands, ringbone weaves, cavalry corduroy knitwear and outerwear were and black denim. “Everything is key draws for retailers in town to slimmer this season, with 14- to 16- shop the New York market shows inch leg openings,” said Shafer. this week. Looking at the retail landscape, But with these trends popular for the growing influence of e-com- the past several seasons, stores were merce is the most significant issue forced to scour the aisles at Project, impacting retail, added Shafer. MRket, Capsule and the other trade “There’s such a major transition shows for their latest incarnations. to online and it’s a battle out there “There’s not a lot of trend this with Zappos, Amazon and sites like season,” said Dan Farrington, nordstrom.com. We are mostly in general merchandise manager of better specialty boutiques, and spe- men’s wear for Mitchells Family of Todd Snyder x cialty stores have to become more Stores. “There’s still some room to Champion special — because all the basics are grow with the fit change, but that’s Jachs being bought online,” he noted. leveling out now.” There was an abundance of that As a result, he was searching for special product at youthful brand “special items, add-on luxury pieces Del Toro Shoes, where chukka, to round out our offering.” Sweaters, Ted Baker sneaker, wing tip and slipper styles outerwear and soft jersey jackets, were displayed in a profusion along with “cool denim,” were the of materials like burlap, quilted most intriguing, he said. “But there’s leather, tie-dyed canvas, Neoprene, a lot of sameness. Everybody has zip stingray and ostrich. “We’re looking sweaters and soft jackets, so for us, at using sustainable materials like it’s about the details.” Accessories perch and salmon skin also,” said also are an area of opportunity, the Miami-based brand’s designer Farrington said, pointing to caps, and founder, Matthew Chevallard. scarves and leather goods. Del Toro is now sold in about He noted that his company ben- 75 stores, including Saks Fifth efited from a blast of business at Avenue, Nordstrom, Scoop, the end of the holiday season, and 3x1 Harvey Nichols and Five Story. In he’s expecting single-digit growth December, the company opened for this year. “If we’re smart and its first Del Toro boutique in the have good product, that’s what Wynwood Building in Miami. we’re looking at,” said Farrington. Adidas Silver foil sneakers were ap- Craig DeLongy of the John SLVR propriately top sellers at Adidas Craig men’s stores in Winter Park, SLVR, the German megabrand’s

Fla., said he was “blown away by LEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE BRIAN WALKER KEITH EDWARDS, JOHN AQUINO, contemporary fashion label de- the creative courage” of European Versace signed by Dirk Schoenberger. men and hopes to bring a bit of Collection Pleated track pants, sweatshirts that to his customer. “We have to PHOTOS BY with Neoprene sleeves and coated teach men how to dress,” he said. French terry sweatshirts amped up At the shows, he was looking for the fashion quotient on conceptual “new lines — icing on the cake” in gym-inspired pieces. sportswear, as well as outerwear. New York-based Number:Lab Although his stores are in Florida, expressed a similarly high-style he had success last fall with outer- Agave Denim approach to active design in its wear from men traveling to colder shorts, which were pieced together climes, so he spent some open-to- from quick-dry mesh and supple buy on overcoats from Sand and jersey. Designer Luis Fernandez other vendors in New York. reimagined the classic M65 jacket “We had a good year in 2012 and in a titanium powder-coated poly- if we keep doing everything right, urethane fabric that was shimmery we’re hoping for a 7 to 9 percent and whisper weight. increase this year,” he said. Lightweight fabrics were also Luke Abner of The Rogue in central to a new tailored line from Jackson, Miss., said that after Alessandro Cantarelli, the scion Del Toro Shoes a slow start, sales picked up at of Italy’s Cantarelli family, which the end of the year. “The world owns the vertically integrated stopped around the election, but PROJECT Mvmnt section. “Our mission going ening their offerings, from pants to tailored clothing firm in Arezzo, after Nov. 15, people came in,” Project showed off its new look forward is to create a really com- sweaters, and adding more luxuri- Italy. The younger line emphasizes he said. As a result, he trimmed and location under the direction of pelling men’s wear show,” said ous fabrics,” said Glass. unstructured, easy-to-wear blaz- inventories back and is focusing president Tommy Fazio. The move Fazio. “That’s our legacy.” The Todd Snyder x Champion ers that are polished but relaxed, more on the inherent value of the to Pier 92 and the addition of for- Knitwear, lightweight jack- capsule collection, set to launch explained Katie Liu, cofounder of garments he carries. mer ENK International men’s ven- ets, and coated and printed fab- at retail this fall, included gym-in- the Black Dog 8 showroom in New “We’re trying to find the right dors — Project’s parent, Advanstar rics were key trends at the show. spired pieces like sweatshirts and York that represents the line here. soft coat that fits, denim is out- Fashion Group, recently purchased Woven shirts took a backseat to thermals in high-end Japanese In the designer arena, Versace standing and we’re also looking the competing show and merged lush sweaters and novelty knits as fabrics, with a retro bent accen- Collection made its debut at Project for the right shoes to go with ev- its men’s brands into Project — al- a directional focus in sportswear. tuated by vintage flat-lock stitch- and showcased its iconic printed erything,” he said. Abner singled lowed for about 300 brands to show- Prints in classic men’s themes like ing. A sophisticated element was silk shirts based on vintage patterns out David Donahue shirts, Joseph case their wares. Fazio said he Prince of Wales and glen plaid added via varsity jackets in wool from its archives. Zipper details Abboud and Jack Victor suits, the “merchandised the show like I was added interest to cotton trousers flannel, and even hoodies were were in evidence throughout the True Grit collection and Ibiza cot- putting together a retail store.” and airy, unconstructed blazers. adorned with luxe details like fab- offering in everything from leather ton corduroy jackets as standouts. The entryway featured Todd “Everybody is really focusing ric-covered buttons. jackets and woven shirts to a zip- “But the days of having 70 vendors Snyder’s new collaboration with on cardigan sweaters, in updated “I think there’s a movement to- per-trimmed topcoat. As expected, on the floor is over,” he said. “Now, Champion, followed by a Warby ways, with pops of color on the ward men becoming more gentle- the collection popped with color, we have 10 and we think we can Parker pop-up. Inside the main trim, shawl collars or unique knit- manly. We’re moving away from notably teal, gold and magenta. make our mark that way.” hall, the show opened with con- ting up the sides,” said Jeff Glass, the Red Wings and beard look “We brought the collection here Jeff Glass, co-owner of Boyds in temporary sportswear brands, fol- co-owner of Boyds in Philadelphia, and starting to clean things up a to generate interest and perhaps Philadelphia, was more upbeat on lowed by denim and youth-culture singling out Autumn Cashmere, bit more,” said Snyder. “People open different avenues of business,” the retail climate. “Our business vendors. “We’re elevating the ser- Christopher Fischer and Vince as are looking for more tailoring and said Libbey Dorko, senior account has continued to grow since ’09 and vice and the experience,” he said. standouts. “Wovens were a bit lack- more refinement. I’ve really moved executive for men’s collections. we are more and more bullish,” he There will be even more strik- luster. The excitement is coming in that direction in my own collec- Denim was well represented noted. “If anything, we have the ing changes in Las Vegas next from knitwear. Even with the warm tion for fall.” at Project by brands like Paper confidence to try more things in month when all the men’s brands weather, we had the best sweater That sentiment was echoed by Denim & Cloth, Robin’s Jeans, different areas. We are being more will be brought together under the season we’ve had in years.” Jeff Shafer, chief executive officer The Stronghold, Mavi and True aggressive. As a single store and as Project banner. Designer brands Glass picked up a new belt of Agave Denim. “Men’s is becoming Religion. “I think the cycle is really an independent, you have to have such as Billy Reid and Michael resource in Brave Leather and more tailored, with smaller lapels, coming back to denim, after having a reason for being — a personality Bastian will be housed at the Tents added new categories from higher armholes — it’s cleaner and so much twill and nondenim in that is singular and different than at Project in the parking lot at Benson, a New York-based sports- sexier. Guys are tucking in their the market,” said Scott Morrison, all the others. People want to go Mandalay Bay and youth brands wear brand. “Benson is very value- shirts and pants are narrower, which founder of 3x1. “How many colored shopping and have fun.” will be showcased in a Project friendly and they are really broad- shows off footwear,” he observed. stretch bottoms can you have?” Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 MW3

$89 and newly introduced casual, variety of heavy-gauge sweaters in around the world touring temples, Circle of Loft 604 unconstructed blazers were $139. Australian merino wool including museums and forests in search of Gentlemen one in a honeycomb pattern with materials for her jewelry collection. MRKET toggle buttons and another cable Retail prices for the line, which in- MRket continued to pump up its cardigan. The color palette includ- cludes patterns ranging from skulls fashion quotient by offering a vari- ed ivory, camel, navy and charcoal. with sapphire eyes to necklaces with ety of noteworthy newcomers at its He also showcased a new Italian the “om” symbol from different cul- latest edition. But even the more- cashmere model in a cable knit tures, retail for $100 to over $3,600 traditional vendors stepped out of with a shawl collar and toggle but- for a sea fossil cuff link in 18-karat the box this time, offering updated tons, priced to retail at $720. gold and diamonds. classics designed to appeal to spe- “Sweaters are happening again,” cialty retailers seeking pieces that said designer Lenor Romano, not- CAPSULE will lure shoppers to their stores. ing that it is affecting the dress shirt Across town from Project and The Made in Italy section of the market as retailers “take money out MRket, more than 200 brands show grew 34 percent over last of wovens” to invest in interestingly packed the Capsule show at the January, and a U.K. Design section patterned knitwear. They’re also Basketball City venue on the East appealed to merchants looking to searching for “smaller patterns” in River. The site was home base to jump on the popularity of the cur- shirts to coordinate with the sweat- mostly independent directional rent Anglo fashion trend. Britton ers,” she added. brands and heritage names like Jones, president of Business At outerwear brand Rainforest, Shipley & Halmos, Etiquette Rainforest Mackintosh Journals Inc., which owns MRket, the company is focusing on its Black Clothiers, Gloverall and Penfield said there were 88 new brands on Label collection, “which features — as well as established players the floor, which led to a 5 percent a more fitted cut with metro styl- seeking a piece of this burgeoning jump in buyer attendance. ing, for our emerging relatively market, such as Timberland, New James Seaman brought an as- fashion-forward consumers,” said Balance and Gant Rugger. sortment of sweaters, sportswear president Jack Wu. A key trend of “Retail is getting more and and outerwear from England and the season, he said, are lightweight more specialized now, as retailers Scotland to the Kuehnert booth, in- quilted jackets, which the company look for innovative ways to keep cluding the first showing of the ven- is now offering in four models. Top their stores unique and set them erable Mackintosh line at the MRket models include a quilted blazer apart from the rest,” said Edina show. The brand showed off a quilt- with removable bib with a knit col- Sultanik Silver, a cofounder of ed cashmere jacket and some of its lar, grosgrain details at the cuff and Capsule. “Consumers are looking iconic raincoats, as well as a double- hem, burnt horn buttons and elbow for experiences at retail and store breasted Monkton coat in a Loro patches in pigment-dyed nylon. A owners need to work harder than Piana Storm System wool fabric. double-breasted waxed nylon jacket ever to infuse their shops with “It’s a very trendy brand and unique with contrasting collar and a quilted creative differences — from an in its own way,” Seaman said. lining, as well as the “moto hip- amazing assortment of brands, to He also pointed to a collection ster” jacket, which features seven creating a private label, to creating of Harley sweaters from Scotland exterior pockets, a lamb-leather compelling editorial on the store’s as popular with retailers. The trimmed chest, bellowed sleeve Web site or as a print magazine, beefy wool Shetland sweaters, pockets, metal logo eyelet snaps and and filling their shops with cool while steeped in tradition, are a bi-swing back for enhanced mobil- lifestyle items and vintage pieces.” new to many of today’s customers, ity, also connected with retailers, Capsule showcased the boom- he said. Scott & Charters’ lamb’s Wu said. Retail prices for the Black ing outdoor sector with its Above wool and Fair Isle sweaters, now Label coats range from $395 to $500. Tree Line section, with 28 brands available in a contemporary, slim- At casual sportswear brand, such as Barbour, Jansport and mer cut, were offered, along with Johnnie-O, bright neon polo shirts Smartwool. The trend towards Begg & Co. cashmere scarves and augmented the brand’s classic of- technical performance could colorful Corgi socks. fering in colors ranging from pink be seen throughout the show as Circle of Gentlemen, a to teal. High V-neck sweaters in brands aimed to marry advances Spivey Netherlands-based brand, chose cotton cashmere blends with elbow in materials with fashion appeal. MRket for its New York launch. patches and the brand’s surfer boy “Traditional meets technical Inspired this season by new worlds, logo on the back, an unconstructed as we see men’s wear fabrications After launching his brand with building on leather back patches the collection of updated sport coats blazer in cotton poplin, patterned and silhouettes updated with a SoHo store that also serves as a signal the sophisticated ambitions and dress shirts offered contem- boxers and lounge pants, and a new performance details and fabrica- production facility, Morrison is rap- of the brand. porary styling such as an eyeglass line of woven shirts in plaids and tions,” explained Silver, singling idly expanding the business into Ted Baker showed a fall col- cleaner pocket and mismatched but- tattersalls rounded out the offering. out brands like Pedal Ed, Remi wholesale. The brand is now sold at lection that was “less urban tons on the jackets and coconut but- On the accessories front, Spivey Relief, Camo, Norse Projects, Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, woodsman and more country tons and patterned undercollars and showed a high-end assortment of Rocky Mountain Featherbed and Bergdorf Goodman and Mario’s — gentleman,” according to Patrick plackets on the shirts. Retail prices cuff links, pendants and bracelets Arc’teryx Veilance. “The look and the growth has meant produc- Heitkam, executive vice president are $600 to $800 for the blazers and created from unique materials in- can be layered — mixing a tweed tion will transition from the New of wholesale. The brand showed $225 to $275 for the shirts. cluding fossilized mastodon bones blazer over a quilted nylon gilet, York headquarters to Los Angeles off fine-gauge merino sweaters Loft 604, a Canadian brand in- and shark’s teeth, ancient sea fossils, for example, or fabrications can be facilities with greater capacity. with geometric patterns, quilted spired by the European lifestyle, lava rock and water buffalo horn. mixed in a single garment.” “We used the store as an incuba- lightweight jackets that could be has bounced around the trade Designer Megan Spivey has traveled At Jardine, the recently launched tor and we were able to perfect the worn at the office or outside and show circuit but settled on MRket label from Rag & Bone cofounder fits and the concept before really jersey cardigans with contrast this time. “Our line is more mature Nathan Bogle, the look was lush getting into wholesale,” explained herringbone forearm details. The and contemporary, so we thought and quietly modern, particularly in Morrison. “Fabrics are 100 per- Tight Lines collection, designed we’d be better off here,” said de- knitwear. Sweaters in alpaca bou- cent selvage, and the washes range to appeal to a fly-fishing enthusi- signer Willie Fung. He showed a clé were softly enveloping while from dark and sophisticated, to dis- ast, showcased traditional English varsity jackets took an elegant turn tressed and damaged this season.” fabrics with whimsical silk linings in monotone cashmere and wool A newcomer to the show was priced to retail for $595. The main blends. A riff on the peacoat fea- Raleigh denim, which produces Ted Baker collection centered tured a stately abbreviated funnel its handcrafted jeans on vintage around the hobbyist, Heitkam said, neck. The new label launches ex- looms in North Carolina. The and offered blazers in “heritage clusively at Louis Boston this spring jeans, which retail for $225 to $330, fabrics with dressy touches” such and will expand to additional spe- are offered in five fits and are ei- as velvet accents. The jackets, cialty stores in the fall, said Bogle. ther raw or rinsed, according to which retail from $475 to $525, also The Americana vibe was evi- John Webb, sales rep. The compa- have built-in pocket squares that dent at Burkman Bros. in sweat- ny also showed pleated jean trou- coordinate with the linings of the shirts patterned with Navajo sers, woven shirts, unconstructed coats, which themselves were in- patterns, as well as paisley and jackets and even a small selection spired by vintage magazines. geometric patterns. Designer Doug of suits, along with a co-branded One booth that drew a crowd Jardine Burkman — one of three brothers peacoat and a CPO jacket with was Jachs, which started five years Burkman Bros. involved in the company — visited Gerald & Stewart in merino wools ago as Just a Cheap Shirt, and has Utah and the Rocky Mountains with updated fits. now expanded into an “American when working on the collection. For nondenim looks, Los heritage-inspired collection,” ac- Filson Heritage brand Filson, founded Angeles-based Opnmkt from former cording to sales manager Allen in 1897, introduced a number of of- Mek Denim founder Kevin Chen Dushi. “But wovens are still our ferings, including its popular rugged showcased clean, slim-fit jeans in bread and butter,” he said. This twill bags in a navy color scheme Italian twill or Japanese moleskin, season, they are offered in a flan- and luggage redesigned with pock- which retail for $158 to $218. “It’s nel color-blocked model, double- ets and padding designed for lap- elegant, high-end fabrics in under- faced prints dipped in indigo, tops and tablet computers. stated silhouettes,” explained Chen washed cottons with polka dot While Project featured a retail of his latest venture, which is based patterns and subdued plaids with Warby Parker booth, Capsule show- out of a historic 92,000-square-foot corduroy undercollars. Retail cased a cash-and-carry pop-up mar- building he acquired in the art dis- prices for the shirts are $59 to $89. ket featuring vintage dealers, includ- trict. Triple stitch details, fleece lin- Nondenim bottoms were offered at ing Brooklyn’s Black Gold Records ings and an artistic rendering of the $79 to $89, patterned sweaters for and Modern Anthology furniture. MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 2013 Men’s Week

berluti Slimane, Outerwear StandOutS in PariS {Continued from page MW1} Martin Margiela, Givenchy, we are very excited to see the collec- Martin Margiela, Mihara Yasuhiro, paying attention to his appearance, Lanvin, Saint Laurent. tion in store next season; it was very Lanvin, Raf Simons, Valentino. but there was a sense of comfort, close to Hedi Slimane’s DNA but On Saint Laurent: “It will be in- too, with lowered shoulders on out- Matthew Singer, men’s fashion with a stronger focus on outerwear.” fluential without a doubt. [Hedi erwear and oversize sweaters and director, Neiman Marcus Group: Slimane] produces commercially shirts, though jackets remained Sound off: “Paris took you on a ride Griffin Chan, men’s wear buyer, strong pieces. I loved the leather quite narrow. The items we expect from the always sophisticated pal- Harvey Nichols Hong Kong Ltd.: jacket, tailored coats and bomber to do well are essentials like basic ette of Berluti to the modern man Sound off: “Designers delivered jacket, though it was much more peacoats or duffle coats.” of Valentino. Along the way, you had commercial-oriented collections casual than expected; he has really On Saint Laurent: “He sent a very hits of rock star grunge from Saint this season. Since the luxury and taken Saint Laurent to the streets, See more collectionS from strong message that stood out from Laurent and Balmain. The mixing experimental fabrications, prices which has ruffled feathers.” men’S faShion week in PariS, the rest, with a definite energy. and matching of pattern and print have gone sky high, but the fall including alexander wang, Slimane sent out the type of skinny from Dries Van Noten was extraor- 2013 budget will remain the same Cindy Ho, fashion director, loewe, Berluti and acne at rock silhouettes we haven’t seen dinary. I am loving the biker jacket as the previous season.” 360 Style, Kuwait: on the catwalks for several sea- Sound off: “Overall, the Paris WWD.com/runway. sons. It was an assertive, edgy Saint Lanvin Valentino collections are still very and energetic show.” Laurent strong in design compared with other cities. This season, with lots of green and real army- Gabrielle Gomez, designer men’s the gentleman is in Milan and style bomber jackets; in terms of wear buyer at Le Bon Marché: the bad boys are in Paris.” patterns: lots of check and tartan.” Sound off: “Paris is the capital Trendspotting: “Short coat, Favorite collections: Valentino, of fashion, and the snow did not long jacket is an important Ann Demeulemeester. facilitate what is already a tight category for both office and On Saint Laurent: “I think it will schedule. The Tranoï, Capsule sports use. [In] knitwear, be controversial; it’s already di- and Man trade shows remain es- you can see all colors and viding opinions in terms of his re- sential, each in their own way.” styles with plenty of choices. branding and the styling. It was a Trendspotting: “Double-breasted Layering knitwear with slim great show; there is a demand for jackets and coats, as well as over- pants is an amazing look.” the aesthetic he has created. There size coats; shawl-collared jackets Favorite collections: Dries is still that guy out there who wants and coats; pleated pants, slightly Van Noten, Kolor, Lanvin. that skinny jean and skin-fit leath- shorter than last season with a 7/8 er jacket, and he is delivering it, Shoji Uchiyama, men’s buyer, United Arrows length; varsity, bomber and biker Georgy Rostovshchikov, whether one likes it or not.” Sound off: “It was definitely more exciting than last season, mainly due jackets; burgundy, camel, bottle head of men’s fashion, to Hedi Slimane’s return.” green, khaki, bright red and Podium, Russia: Mei Chung, men’s senior Trendspotting: “I saw a ‘New Classic,’ which is a term I use to describe mustard; chalk stripes, plaid and Trendspotting: “We believe buyer, Brown’s:

iannoni an established brand that has transformed itself to be accepted by to- Prince of Wales check; patterned g that the most saleable trends Sound off: “We feel a very positive day’s generation. I was specifically scouting for it and found it at Lanvin and Fair Isle ski sweaters.” See a video rounduP of the will be fur coats, sport-chic, atmosphere, more so than in Milan; and Saint Laurent. As for color, black is very strong now and in a new

Favorite shows: Kenzo, Dries SeaSon’S highlightS at iovanni exotic leather, embroidery.… about 70 percent of the designers g

and powerful way.” Van Noten and Lanvin. Men want to wear rare, lim- reviewed the price point to fit into Favorite collection: Saint Laurent On Saint Laurent: “I think WWD.com/wwd-video. ited couture items together the economy, 30 percent remained Hedi Slimane should be otos by with casual stuff.” superexpensive. I do feel a sense of pH Stephen Chan, men’s wear buyer, The Swank, Hong Kong and China: judged over several sea- Favorite collections: Rick continuity: Designers are especially Trendspotting: Ultralong silhouettes, oval shoulders, kimono styles. sons, and that he needs time to this season, on its own or as a layer- Trendspotting: “Parka hybrids, Owens, Maison Martin Margiela, focused on the new generation of “Sports influence is the trend for our market: hooded blazers, jersey play with the codes of the Saint ing piece, it’s always rock star chic.” duffle and cabans: The shapes are Boris Bidjan Saberi, Balmain, Kris 30- to 40-year-olds with stable jobs, jackets, wool flannel ribbed-hem jogging pants, silk hoodies.” Laurent house, while blending cocoon with volume. The luxe sweat Van Assche, Smalto. which has made high fashion be- Business insight: “Fall 2013 business has [seen] a slight drop year-on- them with his own vocabulary.” Jason Broderick, general top is replacing the shirt. Wide- New finds: Boas Kristjanson from come cool and edgy. There is also year due to the worldwide pessimistic economic situation. Customers merchandise manager for men’s cut is one of the key pants shapes. Iceland; A New Cross from Colombia. more sensibility among designers are becoming more careful on spending, they spend more time compar- Anita Barr, director of wear and fine watches, Harrods: Colorwise, cobalt blue, cornflower to produce one special piece that ing. Our men customers are more likely to spend only on [the] unique men’s wear, Selfridges: Sound off: “In men’s wear, Milan and pink. Seeing lots of fur and lux- Toby Bateman, buying director, will attract the wealthy student who and strongest item. [This] allows us to build wider variety on the real Sound off: “Whereas Milan was has been considered the place to ury fabrics on the runway.” Mr Porter: gets the money from mom and dad fashion pieces.” somber, Paris is a lot more creative be, but as a store, we feel that Paris Favorite collections: Valentino, Sound off: “The mood was more — they should continue with that.” Favorite collections: Kris Van Assche, Kenzo, Thom Browne. and edgy.” has evolved and certainly given the Givenchy, Juun J. upbeat than last year. People over- Trendspotting: “It’s back to tailor- On Saint Laurent: “More funky, slimmer, younger and stronger charac- Trendspotting: “There were very market its fair share.” came the weather conditions to ing, but more relaxed and with a ter to Saint Laurent collection. Our jeans will get slim again!” strong influences from sportswear, Trendspotting: “Ver y skinny-fit Paula Reed, group fashion make it to the shows — that lifted twist for the guy who wants to be more so than in previous seasons, trousers, some cropped just above director, Harvey Nichols: the spirit; we were really busy, it taken seriously but not be restrict- which led to a lot of layering. Sporty the ankle, were key. Overall, coats Sound off: “In Paris the artisanship was a good trip.” ed to a tie. Also the biker referenc- items were matched with a great coat have been a very big punch from and quality of men’s tailoring is im- Trendspotting: “The key trends es were very strong.” or jacket. We saw contrast in fabrics; all the brands.” pressive; there is a real love affair were double-breasted and full- Favorite collections: Dries van the colors centered on a variety of Favorite collections: Valentino, with technique and fabric going on.” length coats; we saw a continuing Noten, Saint Laurent. grays, burgundy, forest green, blue Berluti, Louis Vuitton. Trendspotting: “There was sports- mountaineering theme, parkas and On Saint Laurent: “Welcome back, and orange; and there was a lot of On Saint Laurent: “The new energy wear coming through but with a real quite a few Aran knits, fluffy mo- Hedi! His style is confident and protection going on — like an armor.” and excitement will definitely have refinement and elements of quilting.” hair and printed sweaters. There daring. It raises your blood pres- Favorite collections: Maison an effect on the commercial side; Favorite collections: Maison was a military theme in outerwear sure in a good way.” t Men of Jim HarbaugH: C- THE WEEK

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