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The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

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05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 8 88/19/11/19/11 9:159:15 PM 9 The Best in ure, you can drive, but parking spots in Seattle are scarce Sand pricey. One of the most compact big cities in the country, . . the Emerald City is easy—and just plain fun—to navigate on foot. . t Harrison St. S . N N N SEATTLE

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i T O n y 206/905-2100. www.spaceneedle. W A v V . T N a v e t. perfect symbol for Seattle. It was t . E O l 6 e . S S t E R B t . l ll S R A h l com. Observation deck tickets: $18 y T I A e a r S L v . built for the World’s Fair in 1962 after W e Y e t w t R . 5 . S o adults, $16 seniors, $11 ages 4–13. W t E t th a H e a T S A i an artist sketched out a space-age s B T ll in . te A e ve g t Mon–Thurs 10am–11pm; Fri–Sat rn B B B E L LTOW N . ir S focal point for the event on a place- A V rt E ve 4 a y 9:30am–11:30pm; Sun 9:30am–11pm. lli . th w a mat at—where else?—a local coffee o te W tt A S e A ve liv v t. 3 . O shop. Lines for the glass elevator ride 2 ★★★ = Pike Place Mar- e 1 S rd . s A t ra v A o e up to the observation deck can be ket Main Arcade. The heart ve n . . e 2 L n 5 d t Washington State long in summertime, but it’s worth and soul of Seattle, Pike Place is A h ve A Convention & . v the wait—just try to not get shoved home to those famous flying fish, e Trade Center 4 . t Pier 66 h to the back, or you’ll miss the view on which you’ll spot right behind . t. St A S (Bell Street Pier) A e v ke the way up. The typical Seattle mist l Victor in 3 e Pi Rachel, the porcine bank. With just as P r . ka Steinbrueck d t. n A S only makes the view from the top one day, you won’t have time to go W Park v on a P I K E P L AC E e ni y 2 . U that much dreamier. Your ticket to Down Under, but there’s plenty to M A R K E T n d A D OW N TOW N the top includes a free digital down- overwhelm the senses on the Mar- v Freeway Pier 63 e et . t. Park load from the Space Needle’s pho- ket’s top floor. Street musicians turn Pier 62 tre S S 1 Benaroya ity ke b s rs tography department. You can also i m t Hall e junk into instruments, farmers hawk P li iv t. Pier 59 illc A n S H v U ca have lunch or dinner at the revolving a spectacular assortment of locally e ne . Se Waterfront r Seattle Art Seattle SkyCity restaurant (reservations grown produce—which you can bo Park ar Museum t. Central H ps S highly recommended) and rotate taste at many of Seattle’s finest res- E l l i o t t te ing Library S pr Pier 57 S . around the town while you dine. Pick taurants—and local artists display B a y A St la on up a special dining ticket on the Pier 56 s W is an eclectic array of talents, from k d a e a . n s M t t S Pier 55 W e n t. r io S a n ar ia y M b A m V v lu Pier 54 ia e o d . C t. u S c ry Pier 53 t er Ch Travel Tip A la s k P I O N E E R a n S Q UA R E Even though Seattle’s fun to walk, there may be times when Pier 52 W Yesler Way a y your feet need a break. To get downtown from Seattle Center—

S. Washington St. home of the Space Needle (see bullet 1 above)—hop on the mono- Occidental Park rail ($4 round-trip for adults, $1.50 for ages 5–12, $2 for seniors) for Pier 48 S. Main St. the short ride to Westlake Center. From there, take a metro bus— S. Jackson St. free from 6am until 7pm—anywhere in the downtown, Pioneer Square, Pike Place Market and waterfront neighborhoods. You can Pier 46 S. King St. catch a bus on the street, or in the bus tunnel, conveniently located underneath Westlake Center.

05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 9 88/19/11/19/11 9:159:15 PM 10 Full-Day Tours The Best

Pike Place Market is far more than a farmers market and is well worth exploring.

kazoo-making to wood-carving. The fish and chips, available at stands Market is a great place to sample along the way. If you have little some tasty wares and shop for high- ones, a stop at Pier 57’s Bay Pavilion quality souvenirs. My weakness is is a must. Pirates Plunder gift shop for the lavish bouquets of flowers, has every kind of sea-scalawag item fresh from the fields in nearby lush imaginable; at the back of the pavil- valleys. They cost half what you’d ion, an antique carousel and game pay at a grocery store for a much room offer a fun break. But the har- smaller spray. @ 1 hr. Pike Place bor is not all about play; it’s a real and Pike St. y 206/682-7453. www. working waterfront, one of the busi- pikeplacemarket.org. Mon–Sat est in the nation. To get a good look 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm. at all the action, stop by Waterfront Park, which stretches between Piers 57 and 61, and peer through the 3 Daily Dozen Doughnuts. free telescopes out at the barges, Around the corner from the Main tugboats and ferryboats coming and Arcade, in the Economy Building, going on the bay. @ 1 hr. follow your nose to this heavenly kiosk. Don’t let the line discourage The Lunar Orbiter desert, complete with you! These light confections, fresh dry ice “steam,” at SkyCity restaurant. from the fryer, are nothing like their heavier cousins you’ve encountered at some doughnut shops. Might as well buy two dozen while you’re at it! 93 Pike St. y 206/467-7769.

4 ★★ = Seattle Water- front. From Pike Place Market, take the elevator downhill and cross the street to Seattle’s sparkling Elliott Bay, where you can amble from pier to pier. The waterfront is always lively, and the smell is a pleasant mix of saltwater and fresh

05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1010 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 11 The Best in 5 Occidental Park and Pedes- trian Walkway. From the waterfront, walk or take the free bus 99 to Jackson Street and Occidental Ave- nue. The bricked walkway occupies one block; the park claims the block One Day to the north. In this area you’ll find a The Seattle Aquarium offers a view into sampling of Seattle’s avant garde art life in Puget Sound. galleries, Victorian-Romanesque buildings constructed hurriedly during Friday from 5–9pm. @ 2 hr. 1300 the Gold Rush, and Glasshouse Stu- 1st Ave. y 206/654-3100. www. dio, 311 Occidental Ave. S. (y 206/ seattleartmuseum.org. Admission 682-9939), where you can watch $15 adults, $12 seniors over 62, $9 skilled glass-blowers at work. Several students & kids 13–17, free for kids totem poles tower over visitors, and 12 & under. Hours: Wed–Sun 10am– the Fallen Firefighter’s Memorial pays 5pm; Thurs–Fri 10am–9pm. tribute to those who have lost their lives battling Seattle’s fires. @ 1 hr. 7 ★★ = Seattle Aquarium. Occidental Ave. & Jackson St. This is a sealife-lover’s dream come true. The aquarium’s pride and joy, a 6 ★★★ Seattle Art Museum. 40-foot-by-20-foot viewing window, SAM’s eclectic global collections gives visitors a glimpse of the intrigu- include Northwest Native American, ing creatures that swim in the Puget Pan Asian, African, European and Sound. Divers interact with fish in the American modern art. The first-rate tank several times a day, while volun- special exhibits have included the teers explain what’s going on. The U.S. debut of a major Picasso show. aquarium is perched on a pier over- The museum offers lots of activities hanging the sound, so many of these for kids in conjunction with the dis- animals are also swimming under plays. Despite its world-class reputa- your feet. Don’t miss the giant Pacific tion, SAM has a friendly feel, with a octopus—the largest in the world. passionate staff that treats visitors @ 2 hr. 1483 Alaskan Way on Pier as honored guests. SAM’s perma- 59. y 206/386-4300. www.seattle nent collections are on display at no aquarium.org. Admission $17 adults, charge the first Thursday of every $11 ages 4–13. Daily 9:30am–5pm month; free to seniors the first Fri- (exhibits close at 6pm). day; and free for teens the second

Good Deal

A CityPass (888/330-5008; www.citypass.com) is one of the best deals is town. You can visit five popular Seattle destinations for half- price (if you take them all in). Better yet, you don’t have to wait in line. The passes will get you into the Space Needle, Seattle Aquarium, Pacific Science Center, Woodland Park Zoo, an Argosy Cruises harbor tour of Elliott Bay, and the option of either the Museum of Flight or Experience Music Project/Science Fiction Museum. A CityPass costs $59 for adults and $39 for kids ages 4–12. You can buy them at any of the included attractions, or order them ahead from the website.

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05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1212 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 13 The Best in he first day was the sampler platter of Seattle highlights; Tnow it’s time to go back and spend some quality time Mercer St.

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a Park 6 0 5 km T Denny Way through a railed opening in the floor. this museum at Seattle Center. M in The bright colors and enchanted for- There’s plenty here to interest all

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V . . T M a W A t garden, and the Body Works area, t t E l 6 v S S S E O B t e l ll R N h . l a ry T O A . e Series offers an activity for the whole where they can put their own physi- e S RA ve t w W t Y . 5 . S o W t R t IL t a H e a E S h i family, including a snack and a take- cal abilities to the test. There are s B T l A in . t T l v g t e A e e r S rn B . i t home project. @ 60 min. 305 Harri- A B B E L LTOW N V r buttons to press, levers to pull, ani- E v 4 a y ll e. t w a son St. y 206/441-1768. www. io h te W mals to touch, a playground for tiny tt Av S ive A t. 3 e l v 1 S rd . O thechildrensmuseum.org. $7.50. tots, and special exhibits ranging e. s t ra A A o ve ve n . 5 from bubbles to snakes. You can . e 2 t L nd h A A Washington State The dinosaurs that prowl the Pacific Sci- v v gaze at the stars in the planetarium, e e . . Convention & ence Center are fun for kids and adults 4 and watch exciting laser shows t Pier 66 h . Trade Center . t alike. St A S (Bell Street Pier) A Victor e v ke (Thurs through Sun nights, plus Sat n e i la Pi 3 P sk Steinbrueck r . . a d St and Sun afternoons) set to music by n Park A n W v io a e Un the likes of The Beatles, Michael y P I K E P L AC E . M A R K E T D OW N TOW N Freeway Jackson, and Led Zeppelin. The Pier 63 t t. Park Pier 62 ree S IMAX theaters show movies for St Benaroya ty ke si Seattle Pi mb Hall er @ 2 hr. 200 2nd Ave. cli iv . varying ages. Aquarium ill Seattle Art Un St H ca Seattle y Pier 59 Museum ne N. 206/443-2001. www.pacsci. Se Central Waterfront or 2 t. rb n S Library org. Admission $14 adults, $12 Park Ha s d ng ep A ri St v p t. seniors, $9 ages 6–15, $7 ages 3–5. e S S E l l i o t t Pier 57 A n W . so la di IMAX: $9–$14 adults, $8–$12 B a y s e a Pier 56 k s M t t. a e S n r on seniors, $7–$11 ages 6–15, $6–$9 W n ri Pier 55 A 1 a . a s M t v t S ages 3–5; discounts available for y e ia V . A b Pier 54 v m ia e lu combination passes. Mon–Fri d . Co . u St c y Pier 53 t rr 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. he A C t. la S s es k Pioneer m 3 ★ Experience Music Proj- a Ja n Square W ect. Microsoft billionaire Paul a Yesler Way Pier 52 y P I O N E E R Allen’s monument to home-grown S Q UA R E Occidental Seattle rock legend Jimi Hendrix fea- Park tures lots of interactive exhibits on Pier 48 S. Main St. music ranging from soul to rock to S. Jackson St. hip-hop. You can record your own S. King St. CD in the Jam Studio, using guitars, 1 s drums, keyboard, and voice. With Pier 46 t

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05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1313 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 14 www.undergroundtour.com; $15 adults, $12 seniors, $12 youth ages 13–17, $7 children 7–12; offered daily, throughout the day), which takes you beneath the sidewalks to view the remnants of the original pioneer town, a full story lower than

Full-Day Tours the rebuilt city. (It seems there was a little problem with sewage coming back in with the tides.) You’ll get a 90-minute lowdown (literally) on the

The Best era’s get-rich-quick schemers, gold- crazy prospectors, and colorful women who listed their occupation as “seamstress,” though they sel- dom produced a stitch. Some of the content is mature, but it should go right over the heads of the little ones. In any case, they’ll be more fascinated by the stories of the rats that once roamed the streets. The Be sure to explore the remains of old guides are witty, and they know Seattle, which lie a full story beneath the their stuff. @ 90 min. 1st Ave. & modern city, on the Underground Tour. Yesler Way.

this technology, you don’t need Music-lovers and fans of modern archi- an instrument—or even talent. tecture will both find something to love Through mid-April 2013, the EMP at the Experience Music Project. is hosting a blockbuster exhibit called “Nirvana: Taking Punk to the Masses,” complete with the first guitar Kurt Cobain destroyed onstage. Within the EMP, the Sci- ence Fiction Museum is worth a look, too. Both are housed in a stunning Frank Gehry–designed building meant to look from above like one of Jimi’s guitars. From the street, it looks more like an undulat- ing blob of metal. @ 90 min. 325 5th Ave. N. (at Seattle Center). y 206/770-2700. www.empsfm.org. Admission $15 adults, $12 seniors/ ages 5–17. Late May–early Sept daily 10am–7pm; early Sept–late May 10am–5pm. 4 ★★ Pioneer Building. This historic grand dame now houses Doc Maynard’s Pub and the popular Underground Tour, 608 1st Ave #200 (y 206/682-4646;

05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1414 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 15 The Best in 6 ★★★ Elliott Bay Book Com- pany. In its “new” location—a 20,000-square-foot historic 1917 building on quirky Capitol Hill— Elliott Bay still feels like Seattle’s comfy living room. An old Ford truck Two Days service center, the space has fir floors and massive ceiling beams. Seattleites love to while away the hours here, perusing more than 150,000 books. Your challenge: not to bring home more than you can fit Whether you indulge in gelato or a latte, in your carry-on! @ 60 min. 1521 Caffe Umbria is a haven for weary y walkers. 10th Ave. 206/624-6600. www. elliottbaybook.com. Mon–Thurs 10am–1pm; Fri–Sat 10am–11pm; 5 ★ The Emerald City is not Sun 11am–9pm. exactly known for balmy weather, but that’s never kept a Seattleite Get in from the rain at the Elliott Bay from indulging in a frozen treat— Book Company, housed in a historic like the sinfully creamy gelato at 1917 building on Capitol Hill. Caffe Umbria. My favorites are cappuccino and pistachio. Sit at the window bar and gaze out at the passersby, or grab an outside table on a sunny day. The panini sandwiches and croissants are fresh and delicious. 320 Occidental Ave. S. y 206/624-5847. Mon–Fri 6am– 6pm; Sat 7am–6pm; Sun 8am–5pm.

Seattle Makes Music

The Kingsmen, Jimi Hendrix, Heart, Queensrÿche, Pearl Jam, Nirvana, Alice in Chains, Death Cab for Cutie, Modest Mouse—Seat- tle seems to spawn great music. Since the 1950s, the Emerald City has been famous for its garage bands that end up going big-time. The “Louis Louis” phenomenon began when the Wailers from Tacoma (just south of Seattle) recorded the song in 1960 and it became a radio hit. (A couple of years later, two Northwest bands from a bit farther south—Portland, Ore.—recorded the same song: The Kingsmen and Paul Revere and the Raiders.) In the 1990s, Seat- tle’s Kurt Cobain and his band Nirvana kicked off the grunge era that made Seattle arguably the hippest place on the planet. The tradition lives on in Seattle’s contemporary rockers, like Modest Mouse.

05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1515 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 16

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05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1616 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 17 The Best in o fully appreciate Seattle, you need to get out on the

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05_9781118027448-ch01.indd_9781118027448-ch01.indd 1717 88/19/11/19/11 99:15:15 PM 18 and shops line the street across from adults, $3.45 for seniors, $5.55 for the water, so you need never go children, $14.85 for car & driver; check 1 hungry. @ 2 ⁄2 hr. schedules for departure times). 5 ★★ Walk through Winslow. 3 Alki Bakery and Café. If all Once you’re on the island, follow the the salt air makes you long for crowds walking into the charming town of Winslow, where you can

Full-Day Tours something sweet, head across the street for pastries and coffee. You roam the art galleries, taste some can also get more substantial fare: wine, and do some shopping on Win- sandwiches, pasta, or seafood. slow Way. A great place to see the Enjoy your snack outside, with the work of hundreds of area artists— The Best panoramic ocean and mountain both new and seasoned—is the non- view thrown in for free! 2738 Alki profit gallery Bainbridge Arts and Ave. SW. y 206/935-1352. $ Crafts (151 Winslow Way E., y 206/ 842-3132, Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–5pm). For a great cup of java, 4 ★★ Ferryboat to Bainbridge turn left (toward the water) at Madi- Island. Washington State runs the son Avenue South, then right onto largest ferry system in the country, Parfitt Way Southeast, and stroll over and this line is very popular with com- to Pegasus Coffee House and Gal- muters. You could plug in your laptop lery (131 Parfitt Way SW, y 206/842- and check e-mail for free, but don’t do 6725), a picturesque, ivy-covered it. Instead, grab a cup of coffee and a brick shop on the waterfront that raspberry scone at the onboard cafe, roasts its own tasty beans. @ 3 hr. then go out on deck and enjoy the = 35-minute ride. If you walk onto the 6 ★★ Elliott’s Oyster ferry, arrive 15 minutes early; if you House. Back in Seattle, this is a drive your car on (not recommended), great place to stop for fresh local come at least 20 to 30 minutes ahead. seafood. Or head for the raw bar if Drive-on wait times can be much lon- you just need an oyster fix. It’s the ger during rush hours. Catch the ferry- perfect place to wrap up a day on boat at the Seattle Ferry Terminal at the water. 1201 Alaskan Way, Pier y Pier 52 (y 206/464-6400; www. 56. 206/623-4340. www.elliotts wsdot.wa.gov/ferries; fares $6.90 for oysterhouse.com. $$.

Riding the ferry is half the fun of a trip to Bainbridge Island.

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