Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx

Naturetrek Tour Report 21 - 29 January 2018

Iberian Lynx by Claire Dykes Wild Boar by Claire Dykes

Greater Flamingos by Claire Dykes Iberian Lynx by Claire Dykes

Report compiled by Niki Williamson Images courtesy of Liz Houghton & Claire Dykes

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx

Tour participants: Niki Williamson & Lara Broom (Leaders) and a group of twelve Naturetrek clients

Summary

This two-base tour took place in the atmospheric misty woodlands and wetlands of Doñana Natural Park, as well as the sweeping landscapes of the Sierra Morena near Andùjar. The group were thrilled by encounters with Wild Boar, Mouflon, Red and Fallow Deer and Spanish Ibex, as well as an impressive array of mountain, wetland and farmland birds, including Blue Rock Thrush, Iberian Magpie, Hawfinch, Rock Sparrow, Eurasian Hoopoe, Southern (Iberian) Grey Shrike, Cinereous Vulture, Crag Martin, Western (formerly known as Purple) Swamphen, Greater Flamingo, Black-winged Stilt, Eurasian Spoonbills, and Spanish Imperial Eagle.

This glorious backdrop was holiday enough in itself for any true nature-lover, but of course the outstanding highlights were our three unbelievable sightings of Iberian Lynx, prowling their habitat, just metres away!

Day 1 Sunday 21st January

Niki was waiting for the group as Lara brought them through the arrivals gates at Seville airport. After a brief wait for Giovanni’s delayed flight from Milan (during which most of the group took the opportunity to grab a beer!), we were soon loaded into our smart new minibuses and on the way to our first base at the town of El Rocìo, a short one-hour drive away.

We made for Hotel Toruño without further ado, to give the group time to relax and freshen up before dinner. The drive was through picturescue Andalusian countryside, and we spotted Iberian Magpies, White Storks, Common Kestrels, Western Cattle Egrets, Common Buzzards and a couple of Red Kites in the afternoon light.

Arriving at El Rocìo, the group were thrilled with the sand-covered streets and painted wood façades of the quirky Wild West-style town. After a welcome drink and snacks at our hotel, the group had time to settle in before heading out for a relaxed afternoon, watching birds and other wildlife around the town´s tranquil lagoon, just at the bottom of our street.

Of course our eyes immediately settled on the larger star birds! Many Eurasian Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis and Greater Flamingoes were wading in the expansive waters of the newly-refreshed lagoon. Around them scooted Northern Shovelers, Eurasian Teal, Greylag Geese (the wild kind!), Northern Pintail and a veritable army of Common Coots! Black-tailed Godwits, Black-winged Stilts, Northern Lapwing and some striking Common Snipe paddled and probed the shallows, while overhead we had views of a couple of Red Kites and Marsh Harriers. On the far side of the lagoon, a few Red Deer grazed cautiously amongst the undergrowth.

As we wandered further along the boardwalk, it was the reedy fringes of the lagoon that provided the much smaller stars! Right in front of us a Penduline Tit was calling. Next up was a tiny but beautiful Bluethroat, at first only glimpsed by a few as it moved amongst the reeds, but which eventually treated us to stunning views as it picked about the shore, bringing a touch of glamour to a patch of mud!

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

After a bit of down time and chance to wander the town, we were soon sitting down for our delicious evening meal. We sampled local beef, and natillas - a delicious traditional pudding - before heading off for a restful night´s sleep.

Day 2 Monday 22nd January

After breakfast we made our first early morning foray into the Parque Nacional de Doñana, now home to around 90 Iberian Lynx. Unbelievably, the group members had barely finished wiping the sleep from their eyes before we were looking at the world´s rarest cat! Under a minute into our trip, and the sun was rising on a female Iberian Lynx, who stood quizzically in front of the vans for a long, intense moment, before striding nonchalantly into a thicket of bulrushes! We were completely stunned by our incredible luck, and wrestled with the joy of having seen and photographed our star species, and the knowledge that this could quite possibly be our only view of this elusive feline beauty.

Elated, we spent the rest of our morning´s outing enjoying the wildlife of the park. We drove slowly through an area of Stone Pines and Mastic bushes, where a pair of Iberian Lynx had been active in recent days. Always hoping for further glimpses of the cat, the nature-lovers enjoyed views of Short-toed Treecreepers, Iberian Magpies, Eurasian Hoopoes, beautiful Black Redstarts and the constant serenade of Common Serin, Common Chiffchaff and Common Chaffinch, as well as intimate moments with family groups of Red Deer in the soft morning light.

We encountered a fantastic array of wildlife as we travelled on through more open areas of the park, including large herds of Red Deer, playful Iberian Hares, Common Cranes and many Eurasian Hoopoes. Common Buzzards were incredibly numerous and we really appreciated close views of this quite magnificent raptor perched up on fenceposts by the track, unpersecuted here and therefore unintimidated by our presence. Out on the heathland, we found two delightful Little Owls, perched up on old Eucalyptus stumps.

Stopping for a walk near the Valverde Centro de Visitantes, we were able to get great views of Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, Southern Grey Shrike, and a Great Egret perched rather clumsily on a powerline! Singing, we could hear Skylarks, Crested and Calandra Larks, as well as many wintering Chiffchaffs.

We stopped to view out over a lagoon and enjoyed waterbirds and waders including Western Swamphen, Black- winged Stilts, Common Snipe, Northern Shoveler, Common Gadwall, and female Common Pochard.

Heading back across the heath, it was already raptor o´clock and we saw one of the young Short-toed Eagles that have been recorded locally in recent weeks (unusually for the time of year), a male Hen Harrier and a Short-eared Owl. As we lingered, we were given an audience with the prince (or princess!) - a young Spanish Imperial Eagle flew over us, but unfortunately couldn´t stay for long as it was being mobbed by two Northern Ravens, appearing tiny by comparison!

We took a long, restful lunch at a local restaurant – introducing many of the group to the area´s tasty salmorejo soup - before heading back to our hotel for a siesta and some free time to explore the idiosyncrasies of our Spanish horseman’s town.

2 © Naturetrek March 18

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

We headed back out into the park later that afternoon, and astoundingly, while we were still getting comfy in the nice warm vans, there she was again! Same place, same Iberian Lynx! This time it was the other van that spotted her first, meaning that everyone in the group had a sustained view and time to enjoy this gorgeous kitty. Soon she was gone, and again we were free to enjoy the wildlife of the park, always with one eye open for lince!

This afternoon we explored further forested areas of the park – off-limits to other tour companies - and enjoyed views of peaceful families of Wild Boar foraging in the undergrowth. We alighted at the old hunting estate known as Coto del Rey and enjoyed some lush relaxed birding, including some really great views of two Southern Grey Shrikes singing from a treetop. In the sandy tracks were clear Lynx pugmarks, as well as the smaller tracks of a Common Genet. As we walked through the countryside we felt the ground rumble, and were astounded to see a lone male Wild Boar, who must have weighed as much as a man, thundering squealing towards and past us, spooked by some unknown thing! Over in an instant, this incredible sight remained one of the highlights of the trip for many.

Making our way back through the forest, incredibly the call went out again! ”Lince, lince!!” and again we were scouring the undergrowth. This time the view was more fleeting, of a larger animal, presumably a male, tantalisingly close by but soon obscured by the undergrowth. Respecting the rules of the park and the non- disturbance of the animals we left the area at sundown, grabbing a brief glimpse of Greater Spotted Cuckoo as we went!

An incredible three-Lynx day, and we retired ecstatic to Hotel Toruño to relax before celebrating at the restaurant with a glass of local manzanilla sherry on the house to celebrate our success!

Day 3 Tuesday 23rd January

We set off into another Doñana dawn, with soft golden light illuminating the dew-covered ground. We headed straight back to the area where the Lynx had been so active, and immediately started scanning the sandy droves and the bases of bushes, in the hope of another encounter. But today all was quiet. We had another enjoyable morning in the park, adding a view of Egyptian Mongoose to our list and finding European Badger tracks in the sand, as well as enjoying a heathland send-off from mind-bogglingly large flocks European Goldfinches, Corn Buntings and Common Linnets amongst a large number of grazing Red Deer.

It was time to move on to our second base in Andùjar, so we said ”¡Hasta luego!” to the Wild West and headed east. En route we stopped to take our picnic of local breads, cheeses, olives, meats and salads beside the shady river at the village of Aznalcazar. The crispy song of European Serins filled the air, and wintering Blackcaps and Dunnocks were also encouraged to break into song by the beautifully warm January sunshine!

The drive to Andùjar took us through the rolling farmlands of Huelva and Seville provinces and past the historic city of Còrdoba, where we broke up the journey with a refreshing coffee stop. We arrived at our rural accommodation at the edge of the Sierra Morena National Park and had plenty of time to relax, freshen up and enjoy a cold beer before dinner.

Dinner was a selection of delicious local specialities, served tapas-style, including partidge pâté, tomato and garlic salad, local lamb chops and revuelto - a tasty egg and asparagus dish.

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

Day 4 Wednesday 24th January

This morning we headed out into Sierra Morena National Park, one of the host areas of a successful Iberian Lynx reintroduction and conservation programme and now home to over 200 of the animals – almost half the remaining wild population.

Although Iberian Lynx are numerous here, their territories are large, and seeing one in this enormous area is a combination of local knowledge, persistence, and a great deal of luck! We headed to an area known as La Lancha, where we knew Lynx to be particularly active. We enjoyed a slow meander through rolling, wooded hills where Red and Fallow Deer lingered beneath the Wild Olives and Cork Oaks.

As the huge panoramic view of the park spread out before us, it was clear that anyone coming here purely to look for Iberian Lynx was completely missing the point of having the opportunity to enjoy the wonders of its magnificent realm! The rich tapestry before us was sprinkled with all manner of mammals and birds, peacefully going about their day, as we observed them from our lofty viewpoint. The landscape was dotted with herds of Red and Fallow Deer. Sardinian and Dartford Warblers sang from the undergrowth and occasionally showed well, and Rock Buntings and Hawfinches called around us and flew over our group. From our viewpoint, we could see an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle perched rather incongruously in a Wild Olive tree. Niki also picked out an adult male Mouflon, relaxing on a sunlit slope, curled horns lit up by the sun.

The morning had soon disappeared, and as we were preparing to head off for lunch, a rumble went along the ´Lynx-vine´ - the line of hopeful Lynx-spotters along the roadside! A pair had been spotted, sauntering across a hillside just a kilometre away! We raced to the area, but the entire view had reportedly lasted for just 15 seconds. We joined the throng of hopefuls and kept watch, but the pair were not to be seen again that morning. Again, we reflected on the luck needed to see Iberian Lynx, even when in the right place at the right time!

After a stop for coffee and bit of relaxed time at our hotel, we headed out for a delightful picnic lunch alongside Rio Jàndula. The unseasonably warm afternoon made for an eerily quiet riverside stop as we enjoyed a selection of local wines, meats and cheeses. Apart from the odd Eurasian Nuthatch, Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper calling, the silence was only broken by the calling of numerous Long-tailed Tits and Common Chiffchaffs and the gentle chatter of the group at this beautifully peaceful spot.

Carrying on to the Embalse del Encinarejo upstream, we waited to see if the local female Lynx was active in the area today. She had been seen and photographed at this very spot on the previous two afternoons, but sadly she didn´t join us today. The afternoon passed pleasantly in the sunshine, with Red Deer wandering extremely close in the peace and quiet. Grey and White Wagtails flitted over the river along with many, many Common Chiffchaffs, appearing like golden snowflakes in the evening light.

A brief glimpse of Blue Rock Thrush was unrepeated, but Lara found us a squeaking Hawfinch which showed itself to us from a nearby bush, and we were treated to prolonged views of Rock Sparrow (or the more beguiling ´Rock Petronia´!) on overhead wires.

4 © Naturetrek March 18

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

Day 5 Thursday 25th January

This morning we awoke to a thick fog shrouding the landscape – quite a challenge for wildlife-watching of any kind! We valiantly headed back to La Lancha and spent a companionable couple of hours, aided by much chocolate, along the track. The lynxes were most definitely active regardless of the visibility! In the mist we heard a female Iberian Lynx calling for her mate, and we fancied we could plot her progress through the landscape via the string of panicked alarm calls of Red-legged Partridge and Eurasian Magpies.

After a while we headed back down to our base at Los Pinos to warm up and grab a coffee, before taking our picnic at Mirador el Peregrino, where our weather luck began to change and the clouds lifted to gradually reveal the beautiful view. Back up the hill, a window of sunshine brought us a dramatic kettle of Cinereous and Griffon Vultures overhead, as well as further views of Spanish Imperial Eagle.

As the afternoon wore on, sadly the rain set in – not an inviting climate for any cat to take a stroll in! We descended into the nearby valley, next to a huge reservoir dam. Here we found a family of Spanish Ibex grazing on the crag, tugging at bushes for nourishment in the gentle rain. Two Red-billed Chough called as they flew through the valley and settled near to the group, and dozens of Crag Martins streamed from perches on the brick walls of the dam and its associated buildings, prompting more poetic group members to describe the ´black snow´ - yet another special moment!

At dinner, hotel owner Ramòn toasted our last day of mammal- and wildlife-watching before feeding us more superb food. For our last dinner, we were treated to secreto iberico, a very typical tender cut of pork from locally- bred Iberian Black pigs, and a superb chocolate tart to accompany our discussion of the highlights of the trip!

Day 6 Friday 26th January

The group had a relaxed start to catch their lunchtime flight from Seville, with a stop on the way for a final Andalusian coffee, where singing Corn Buntings and a rather grotty Green Sandpiper spiced up the service station!

We got to the airport in plenty of time and Niki said goodbye to Lara and most of the group, although many of the group were making use of the opportunity to extend their stay and explore Andalucìa in more depth.

Niki and Lara had a great time guiding this group and seeing a superb selection of mammals, birds and other wildlife.

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Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

Species Lists

Mammals (=recorded but not counted) January Common name Scientific name 21 22 23 24 25 26   1 Iberian Lynx Lynx pardinus      2 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes      Cervus elaphus      3 Red Deer    4 Fallow Deer Dama dama      5 European Mouflon Ovis orientalis musimon       6 Spanish Ibex Capra pyrenaica       7 Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus          8 European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus     9 Iberian Hare Lepus granatensis     Sus scrofa  10 Wild Boar       11 Egyptian Mongoose Herpestes ichneumon       12 Common Genet tracks Genetta genetta       13 A Long-eared Bat sp. Myotis sp.       14 A Pipistrelle bat sp. Pipistrellus sp.      Meles meles  15 Badger tracks     16 Lynx tracks Lynx pardinus    Birds      1 Greylag Goose Anser anser     2 Gadwall Mareca strepera          3 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos      4 Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata    Anas acuta    5 Northern Pintail      6 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca      7 Common Pochard Aythya ferina           8 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa   9 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis         10 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus         11 White Stork Ciconia ciconia  Plegadis falcinellus    12 Glossy Ibis       13 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia         14 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis    15 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea      16 Great Egret Ardea alba      Egretta garzetta  17 Little Egret         18 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo      19 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus      20 Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus       21 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus         22 Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti     23 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus      Circus aeruginosus     24 Western Marsh Harrier    25 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus          26 Red Kite Milvus milvus       27 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo      28 Western Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio    Gallinula chloropus     29 Common Moorhen  

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

January Common name Scientific name 21 22 23 24 25 26    30 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra       31 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus        32 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus   Charadrius dubius   33 Little Ringed Plover       34 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago       35 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa       36 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus      37 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos      Chroicocephalus ridibundus   38 Black-headed Gull      39 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus         40 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis         41 Rock Dove Columba livia  42 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus       43 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto        44 Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius      Strix aluco   45 Tawny Owl         46 Little Owl Athene noctua    47 Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus        48 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis          49 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops  Dendrocopos major   50 Great Spotted Woodpecker      51 Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpei          52 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus     53 Iberian Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis     54 Iberian Magpie Cyanopica cooki       55 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica        56 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax      Coloeus monedula  57 Western Jackdaw        58 Northern Raven Corvus corax      59 European Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus           60 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus       61 Great Tit Parus major  Remiz pendulinus  62 Eurasian Penduline Tit       63 Woodlark Lullula arborea       64 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis       65 Crested Lark Galerida cristata       66 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra         67 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris       68 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti    Aegithalos caudatus    69 Long-tailed Tit    70 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita         71 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis       72 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla        73 Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata    Sylvia melanocephala      74 Sardinian Warbler   75 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla        76 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes      77 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea         78 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla    79 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor       80 Common Blackbird Turdus merula      

Spain - Realm of the Iberian Lynx Tour Report

January Common name Scientific name 21 22 23 24 25 26   81 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus          82 European Robin Erithacus rubecula   83 Bluethroat Luscinia svecico      Phoenicurus ochruros    84 Black Redstart     85 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius      86 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola       87 House Sparrow Passer domesticus        88 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia      Prunella modularis  89 Dunnock        90 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea          91 White Wagtail Motacilla alba       92 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis       93 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs     94 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes     95 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris      Linaria cannabina  96 Common Linnet           97 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis       98 European Serin Serinus serinus    99 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra       100 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia     Emberiza schoeniclus  101 Common Reed Bunting      Amphibians  1 Iberian Marsh Frog Pelophylax ridibundus       2 Iberian Wall Lizard Podarcis hispanica      Butterflies       1 Clouded Yellow Colias croceus       2 Small White Pieris rapae       3 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta      4 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera      Nymphalis polychloros  5 Large Tortoiseshell     

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