The Deben

45 Autumn 2012 The Association Officers and Committee April 2012

Chairman Leigh Belcham Byelaws and enforcement 45A Western Avenue, , IP11 9SL. 01394 285674 [email protected]

Vice Chairman Robert Simper History Plum Tree Hall, Ramsholt, Woodbridge IP12 3AD. 01394 411273 [email protected]

Treasurer Peter Thubron 17 Turner Gardens, , Woodbridge, IP12 4JD. 01394 387343 [email protected]

Secretary Wendy Brown 4 June Avenue, . IP1 4LT. 01473 259674 [email protected]

Magazine David Bucknell Editor 6 Ferry Road, Quay, Woodbridge, IP12 3AX. 0780 3612 059 [email protected]

Website Annie Leech Administrator 75 Seckford Street, Woodbridge. IP12 4LZ. 01394 386262 [email protected]

Peter Clay Maritime Woodbridge 83 Ipswich Road, Woodbridge IP12 4BT. 01394 384374 [email protected]

Adrian Judge Representative DEP Access Group, Wildfowlers 29 Street, Woodbridge IP12 4NH. 01394 383350 [email protected]

Anne Moore Footpaths, DEP Access Group, Woodbridge 2 Road, Woodbridge IP12 4HG. 01394 383559 [email protected]

Simon Read Representative DEP. Projects - Saltmarsh Recovery. Environment Barge Jacoba Robertson’s Boat Yard, Lime Kiln Quay, Woodbridge. IP12 1BD 01394 384060 [email protected]

Neil Winship Sandcliff, School Road, Waldringfield, Woodbridge IP12 4QR. 01473 736423 [email protected] The DEBEN Autumn 2012 i. RDA Officers and Committee

1. Contents

2. Editorial ‘Discover the Deben’

2. Chairman’s Remarks

6. News From the Hards

8. A Quiet Lane Trial near the Deben? - Neil Winship

10. View From the River Bank - a Plan for the Deben - Robert Simper - A personal view from Robert Simper

15. Some History of Ramsholt - Anne Moore - A walk around Ramsholt with history and anecdotes

19. Frank Cowdry - Leigh Belcham - Adventures of a seaman in the days of sailing ships

23. ‘Artists and Writers’ - Margaret Wyllie - An introduction to Margaret Wyllie’s work, including her ‘conceptual art’

26. Memories of Bawdsey Quay - Judy Clements - Judy Clements’ recollections of her grandmother who lived on the Quay

29 Letters

30 Autumn Meeting

(Cover ‘Bawdsey Groynes’- Margarte Wyllie)

1 EDITORIAL In the coming debates and discussions about the future of the Deben we Reading the should strive to preserve these summary of qualities. We do not have to enhance the and improve the ‘visitor experience‘. comments The Deben can be allowed to speak on the for itself and the visitor can discover survey one is reminded this ‘voice’ for themselves. of why so many people love the Deben and want it to remain the In the spirit of moving the debate same. forward Robert Simper has provided a personal view of the some of the One of the joys of the Deben is that issues which need to be addressed if it has not been ‘sanitised’ or we are to conserve and protect the ‘domesticated’. There are few signs Deben. Anne Moore continues her and notices telling you what to do and walks around the Deben with her walk what not to do. There are few around Ramsholt, combining it with ‘interpretation’ boards suggesting what history anecdote and folk lore. Leigh you should see and what you should has taken extracts from Frank experience. Cowdry’s diaries and crafted a gripping account of some of his adventures on You explore the Deben and discover it square rigged ships. Margaret Wyllie is for yourself in so many ways off and on our featured artist and there is a brief the water. Your experience of the introduction to her work and in Deben is always new and fresh, particular her ‘conceptual art. Judy changing with the light, the tide and the Clements begins what I hope will be a seasons. It is not prescribed, it is not series of pieces on the history of someone else telling you what to Bawdsey Quay with her recollection of experience, it is an experience which her visits to her grandmother who lived is unique to you and specific to your on the quay. interaction with the environment. CHAIRMAN’S Similarly, the Deben has a timeless REMARKS quality and as we shall read in this edition people and families have a Several years ago I connection with the river over the flew the length of the years and they keep coming back – river (in an aeroplane!), re-connecting with the river but and for a few brief minutes had a experiencing it anew each time. bird’s-eye-view from Woodbridge to Felixstowe Ferry. I hope that the Many ‘wild’ environments have been following paragraphs can similarly exploited and turned into what provide others with an overview of amounts to theme parks. They have Deben with respect to recent and lost the qualities the Deben still projected developments along the river retains. from Wilford Bridge to the sea. 2 Moorings: Last spring’s survey of river users by the RDA highlighted a perception that the number of moorings on the river is increasing to an unacceptable level. The Association plans to convene a meeting of Fairway Committee representatives to determine the total number of moorings, discover the constraints under which each committee operates, and clarify the policy adopted by each.

Siltation/dredging: The Deben Tourism: Several have expressed Estuary Partnership is trying hard to concern that proposed new housing discover what constraints, if any, will developments such as Adastral Park be imposed when the new Marine will significantly increase the number Management Organisation grants of tourists on and along the river. licences for dredging. An area of Efforts by some organisations to particular interest is the disposal of “market” the area are likely to have a spoil, which, if carried out carefully, similar outcome. Our Autumn Open could benefit the restoration of Meeting (see back cover) will address saltmarsh. Another is the possible that concern and clarify what steps are impact of plough dredging on siltation. being taken to protect the character of the Deben. Quiet Lanes: It is considered most unlikely that funds will ever be made Saltmarsh: Through Simon Read, available for filling the gap in the river the RDA has close involvement with wall between Waldringfield and the Deben Estuary Partnership’s Martlesham Creek. The alternative Saltmarsh Group, which is currently route for walkers now involves a mile engaged in restoring an area of or two on narrow, metalled roads also degraded saltmarsh at . used by motor traffic. Neil Winship, The RDA is also initiating a research together with Waldringfield Parish project, headed by James Skellorn Council, is looking at the benefit of and Simon Read, designed to clarify those roads being given the new the causes of saltmarsh degradation, designation of Quiet Lanes, with traffic and to determine which of these is a encouraged to use the safer route significant factor at various locations through Waldringfield Heath. along the river. Dr Rob Hughes’ thought-provoking address on the Windfarm cabling: Power from the subject at our April AGM has served as East Anglia ONE offshore wind farm is a catalyst for this research. to be brought ashore at Bawdsey en route underground to join the National 3 Grid at Bramford. The cable will pass Company to purchase Waldringfield under the Deben at Green Point and Boatyard for the community can be under Martlesham Creek. Dr Therese found elsewhere in this magazine. The Coffey, our MP, has discovered that RDA has kept abreast of discussions the crossings are likely to be made from the beginning, and had during the sailing season rather than provisionally pledged to purchase the wildfowl breeding season, so the shares in the company RDA has asked to work with the contractors in mitigating the impact of Whisstocks: There has been huge their work on river users. Let’s hope support for the proposal that the this won’t interfere with events like the Whisstocks Project works closely with Felixstowe Ferry Youth Sailing or the developers for the former during a national championships Whisstocks site in Woodbridge. hosted by Felixstowe Ferry SC! Preliminary indications are that the project would fit well into the existing Environmental project: We are in waterfront, would satisfy the planners, discussion with others over a proposal and would provide significant benefit for a competition for the best Deben- to, and facilities for, the community. based environmental project for The RDA has contributed financially to children and young people. As well as the Whisstocks Project and fully being of benefit to the river as a whole, supports the proposal. it might even lower the average age of our membership! Adastral Park: The proposed housing development at Adastral Park, Deben Estuary Plan: Publication of Martlesham Heath is part of the this plan by the Deben Estuary SCDC Local Development Plan Core Partnership, replacing the Strategy. Local opposition to the plan Environment Agency’s shelved Deben has led to an Examination in Public, Estuary Strategy, is likely to be early which is continuing. The RDA has next year. Many members will already consistently argued that more effective have been involved in the local measures to protect the development’s consultation events targeting Parish impact on the Deben valley were Councils, owners of waterfront required. properties, and others affected along both sides of the river. The findings of Bawdsey jetty: We have welcomed our online survey of river users have the repair of Bawdsey jetty and the been analysed and incorporated in the agreement which has enabled the plan, which will inform policy-making normal ferry service to resume. by statutory and other bodies (including planning authorities) in Speeding/byelaws: Over a year ago, relation to the Deben, ashore and a proposal that police officers afloat on afloat, for years to come. “jet-skis” (or PWC – Personal Watercraft) to enforce the byelaws, Waldringfield Boatyard CIC: News of especially in relation to speeding, was the attempt by a Community Interest rejected by the majority of river users. 4 After many years personally trying to Chairman: We still need to find tackle the problem, supported by the someone willing and able to stand as RDA committee, I reluctantly came to Chairman when I step down in April the conclusion that no further progress 2013 after my statutory 3-year stint. would be made until things became so When I took over in 2010, it was with a bad that much louder and stronger degree of trepidation and a sense of voices than mine would prevail. I inadequacy. But being Chairman is a detect that we may have reached that unique opportunity to make a real point, and will be happy to pass the difference on and along the river, and I baton – together with 10 years of have found great fulfilment in this. If associated paperwork - to others! you feel you’re already too busy, you’re probably just the person – it has Sewage disposal: Another problem often been said, if you want a job done has just surfaced – sewage disposal well, ask someone who’s already busy. from yachts. And we could do with a few more committee members, too. Maritime Woodbridge: The RDA had Leigh Belcham a display stand at the recent Maritime Chairman Woodbridge event. It was an excellent time of networking with other river- related people and organisations, and of hearing of others’ interests and concerns. New members were signed up, too.

Forum: Invitations to the RDA’s very popular annual Forum for all river-based organisations will soon be mailed. This is always an opportunity for sailing clubs, fairway committees, wildlife groups and others to raise issues of concern to them and to learn of developments initiated by statutory and voluntary bodies that could affect them. The Forum will be from 9.30am to 12.30pm on Saturday 24th November at Woodbridge Cruising Club.

5 NEWS FROM THE HARDS www.whisstocksproject.co.uk. The “Frequently Asked Questions” page WHISSTOCKS: now we are making starts to address the points people are real progress! picking up – but in many cases the answers will only become apparent as discussions on a detailed planning application progress.

At Maritime Woodbridge in September, dozens of visitors came forward with positive comments and suggestions. Proposals to relocate the Town Museum on the Whisstocks site are gathering strength. The museum wants to occupy the building that would be in front of the Community Boat In August the Project Team published Shed in the proposed development. proposals based on ongoing discussions with FW Properties, the The Project Team are also looking at developers for the Whisstocks site, for ways to include facilities for an a “compromise” approach with activities centre on the site – shared significant elements of community between the Museum, the Tide Mill space (including a large Community and the Community Boat Shed – so Boat Shed), alongside retail, catering that visitors and organised groups can and holiday accommodation. Copies engage in the many different aspects went to over 550 people including of Woodbridge heritage through on- Whisstocks Project supporters and site IT, talks and presentations. members of Woodbridge and Melton Riverside Action Group. Of the 50 At the same time, we are moving written replies 96% were in favour or forward plans to build a full size, strongly in favour of pursuing the working replica of the Sutton Hoo proposed way forward. Many people, Anglo Saxon ship as the first project in whilst supporting the principles of a the Community Boat Shed. We are compromise approach, also raised also looking at potential to focus on questions and concerns. You can maritime heritage and traditional skills see details of the proposals, and the not just during the three to five year responses to consultation on the period of the Sutton Hoo ship build as Whisstocks Project website at a permanent purpose for the 6 Community Boat Shed and linked, as Clear Douglas Fir this dominated the part of wider education and community workshop for a couple of months activities, to the museum, Tide Mill and starting from measuring the old rotten other local interests – such as Scouts spar, through machining the timber, scarfing, glueing, shaping and finally, Community interests on the site would stepping. be encompassed in a “Woodbridge Riverside Hub’, around the community We have also repaired the lifting keel space in front of the existing shed on a 39' Alden sloop, built a new pulling together the Tide Mill, the rudder stock and hangings for Community Boat Shed, the Town Dusmarie, removed and refastened Museum, the water frontage, the slip, the ballast keel on the 33' Hillyard and Sutton Hoo. Margo and completed a sprayed Awlgrip paint job. This proposal is quite a step from the original concept of a re-born working Presently in the workshop is Reverend boat yard, creating jobs and all the John Waller's wooden motorboat bustle of a normal yard. But it gives a "Jesus" whose deck and wheelhouse clear sense of purpose to the whole are being repaired and the 1925 site, supports rather than competes Hillyard "Marjorie" continues to with existing marine business, and progress gradually. above all could be achievable despite the tough economic times. Richard Hare's "Kepple" will be coming in to the workshop soon for work to her You can keep up-to-date through the treadmaster deck and the Orford ferry Whisstocks Project web site, and landing craft Guinevere will return to contribute your views on any aspect of our big slipway for a much needed the proposals via the open forum on refit. Preceding her will be Lady the site, by email to Florence and then Sun Cloud. mailto:[email protected] or post to Whisstocks Project, Sun So, plenty going on...... long may it Wharf, Deben Road, Woodbridge IP12 continue...! 1AZ. Malcolm Hodd Mike Illingworth

Robertson’s Notes from Waldringfield The wet summer has not helped us but Hard we have been busier than usual in June, July and August. We have had Waldringfield Boatyard is sold subject the 50' James Silver motor yacht to contract, which according to the Islanda on the slipway for mainly agent, is “due to be exchanged next cosmetic work to topsides, varnish and month” (October 2012). Until then the for deck work. In the workshop we buyer understandably wishes to have made a new 52' mast for the gaff remain anonymous so WBYCIC is ketch Black Rose. Constructed from most probably ‘out.’ Meanwhile it is 7 understood that he and his family hope passengers and provide refreshments to own the yard for many years and to during the Summer. It will be located run it as a family business that will be between the old and the new slipway really beneficial for the village as well and construction has started. as the boating communities. As the initiator of the WBYCIC and six-year customer of the yard, I personally welcome this and offer my septuagenarian support. Not least more time for sailing, grandchildren and the Quiet BAWDSEY QUAY Lane project mentioned elsewhere. After a period in which ferry And many readers will rejoice that our passengers were landed on the beach widely admired, nonagenarian Deben in the traditional manner, agreement artist and sailor, Joe Lubbock, is has been reached with the Bawdsey producing his 14th book. Entitled Manor. The jetty has been repaired “Landfall” this will feature watercolours with a grant from SCDC and the ferry and prose inspired by the countryside ran through the Summer. and rivers of . Whereas his previous books have been individually A QUIET LANE TRIAL NEAR printed and bound as ‘collectors THE DEBEN? items’, this one is being commercially produced and will therefore be more Breaches in the river wall, as Deben affordable. Planned as a limited walkers will know, exist between edition of 100 however, anyone with a Martlesham and Waldringfield and an existing or potential love of Joe’s art between Waldringfield and . may wish to register their interest via They happened in 1939 and 1933 and www.jglubbock.com : those who are about 75 metres wide. It would eschew computers are welcome to cost a great deal repair or bridge phone his daughter Catherine either, as the wall ends would need Jennings on 01277 821078, strengthening first. And if funds became available, DEP and EA FELIXSTOWE FERRY studies show it would be better to strengthen defences just above Planning Permission has been granted Felixstowe Ferry to prevent greater for the Ferry waiting room. It is damage upstream. proposed that the old container will be refurbished with wood cladding to Some ramblers are frustrated by the function as a waiting room for Ferry breaches but I am told far more have 8 asked for those areas to be left approved, unobtrusive signs, arose tranquil. The RDA’s own survey last from that need for a safe and Spring found over 60% of 193 enjoyable alternative route The respondents often walk and 75% paramount aim is to promote watch birds. Most relevant to this considerate and safe roadway sharing article is that of 185 respondents to plus conservation of rural tranquillity; it Question 9 about access, over 80% is NOT simply traffic and speed indicating that they are happy with reduction. Suffolk has been said to be things as they are; but of 70 timid over Quiet Lanes, but current comments, a number expressed a indications are that the relevant Suffolk desire for continuity of footpaths and councils and the AONB Unit will now extended walks. welcome a trial with a possible view to a wider network if benefits are shown. Alternative ways to the breached Fortunately the proposed trial Quiet walls, while about 1 km away from the Lane has a better motor route past the Deben, are on higher ground so offer Moon & Sixpence and Waldringfield superb views. The Hemley to Heath crossroads; it is just 10% further Waldringfield bridleway is closed to but is two-way for most of its length vehicles but the Martlesham to and so is usually quicker for motor Waldringfield by-road is not; it is also vehicles than the by-road. Cycle Route 41. The great majority of drivers using that by- Opportune: The new Road Safety road are thoroughly considerate of Minister has just launched THINK! pedestrians, riders and cyclists; but CYCLIST, a new campaign to make sadly a small proportion do not abide ‘Cities fit for Cycling’ that he hopes will by the Highway Code’s “Drive at a build on the legacy of our superb speed that will allow you to stop well Olympic and Paralympic cyclists. within the distance you can see to be Since 80% of Britons live and work in clear” and “You should always reduce towns, that urban focus is entirely your speed when sharing the road with understandable. Could it be that the pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders.” need to provide anxiety-free walks and Pedestrian and cyclists are not rides near the Deben offers a fine permitted on motorways and sensibly opportunity for a parallel rural avoid A roads, so it seems only fair to campaign that could lead the way for share the minor roads and lanes. One our lovely AONB? Waldringfield respondent suggested walkers should stick to footpaths but Your views please: Waldringfield those do not always link up in the way Parish Council is surveying residents’ that pavements and pedestrian views and the East Anglian Daily crossings do in towns; and Times of 28 September’s electronic discontinuity is even more marked with report included a poll. (You may still bridleways. vote in that electronic poll at http://www.eadt.co.uk/news/poll_calls_ The proposal for a Quiet Lane trial for_quiet_lane_trial_in_suffolk_countr using Department for Transport yside_1_1530666) It would be wrong 9 to pre-empt results of the surveys and estuary heavily used for leisure that poll, although it is fair to say there boating and widely used by the public is enough widespread support to date as an area to walk and has to carry on while noting 1) anxiety that considerable wild life habitats that are driving on the by-road might be typical of the area. The Deben Valley is significantly curtailed, 2) none want the source of considerable local garish signs, 3) beware shifting a employment with agricultural and problem from one lane to another, and commercial maritime enterprises that 4) it may be futile to even try to change depend on the tidal water and the the habits of irresponsible drivers. adjoining fresh water marshland. A small number assert there is no problem, but that seems MISSION STATEMENT to contradict RoSPA’s statistics At the initial public meeting at Sutton www.rospa.com/roadsafety/adviceandi in April 2012 of all the stakeholders nformation/highway/rural_roads and a of the River Deben, leisure activities similar number of respondents who and commercial interests, it was say there is an issue. unanimously agreed that everyone wanted the Deben to stay as near It is notoriously difficult to assess the possible to the present state. At the numbers of walkers, riders and cyclists same time it was recognized that with who have or would avoid the by-road the population in the area rapidly due to anxiety and it will probably be increasing this was going to be difficult equally difficult to measure benefits if to achieve. Any plan for the future a Quiet Lane trial goes ahead. So would be aimed at keeping the Deben please let me have your views with any as it is. reports of your experiences (good as well as bad) that would help to justify WILD LIFE (or not) the signs and to shape (or Two main issues with wild life on the stop) a campaign. Deben are the maintenance of the salt marsh and the protection of the fresh Neil Winship, [email protected] or water marshland. Sandcliff, Waldringfield IP12 4QR As the river changes course salt marsh erodes in some places and builds up in VIEW FROM THE RIVER others. The salt marsh are always at BANK - A PLAN FOR THE the level of the average high tide level DEBEN. and have risen since the originally walling of the grass marshes, mostly in late medieval and Elizabethan periods. RIVER DEBEN As the sea level rises the salt marsh The tidal River Deben extends some continues to rise, so the loss in a few sixteen km from Felixstowe Ferry, places must be due to other causes. where it flows out into the sea. Inland it For some reason the Deben salt runs from Ufford past Bromswell and marshes are badly eroding in places. Woodbridge. It is a very attractive No independent research has yet been 10 is easily achievable for the foreseeable future. In the past, every century has seen at least one abnormal ‘surge tide’, 1953 being the last one. When these surge tides happen, land, homes, business premises and done into the causes of the loss of salt wild life habitat will be flooded. marsh, but the most likely causes are Although it looks like total devastation, the change in the course of the river, the countryside recovers quickly and loss of vegetation and shore crab within a few years there is no sign of burrows. When the reason for the loss flooding. The Deben people are aware is established, any practical course to of this and anyone living in the area prevent this happening will be a has to accept it. challenge for the future. The key to the whole Deben The Deben has been the site of some community and wild life’s future is to experimental bird habitat protection maintain the present mouth and the projects. With marsh harriers firmly re- land on either side. Without these a established in the Deben valley and whole piece of the Suffolk coast will bitterns making increasing visits and simply go into the sea. If the Bawdsey probably soon be nesting here, Manor peninsula is allowed to go into increasing the size of fresh water reed the sea, which is steadily happening at beds would be desirable. Possible the moment, then Bawdsey Ferry, sites would be Martlesham Creek, Felixstowe Ferry and the golf course Waldringfield, Sutton, and Ramsholt. will also go into the sea and new These could be modelled on similar massive sea defences would have to reed beds on the Suffolk Coast with be build along the new sea front at Old car parks and walkways which the Felixstowe. There is no long term public would be requested to keep to. saving by not defending the land on either side of the Deben mouth. If the FLOOD PROTECTION hamlets at the Deben mouth are lost To the people, industry and wild life in then more building will have to take the Deben valley and adjoining place as replacements The loss countryside, protection from flooding is of coastal land will lead to a the most important aspect for future double loss of countryside inland. planning. Even with sea level rise this 11 The other danger is that if land along parking. In 2012 the parking at the Deben becomes flooded, the water Felixstowe Ferry and Waldringfield flow in, and out, of Deben will increase. was inadequate. While the parking at The increased flow would mean that Woodbridge, Bawdsey Ferry and the whole river mouth would have to Ramsholt were under strain. Any be piled with steel sheets, but it is additional car park should be sited extremely doubtful even then if this back from the river, out of general would stop erosion for long. A view, but not too far from the estuary. clear policy statement from the Parking at Sutton Hoo seems a good Environmental Agency is needed. model where it is sited away from the river, but within reach by an attractive Erosion is happening very slowly and if past. it is not controlled it will reach a point that it couldn’t be controlled. A vital part At Woodbridge and Melton the river of the estuary’s future management is walls have already been heightened not allowing the water flowing into the and the public footpath greatly Deben from the sea to increase. improved and this seems a model for the future. Even these paths will have The key to maintaining the estuary in to be heightened again in about fifty its present form is the maintance of the years. river walls that prevent the fresh water marshland from being flooded by tidal The footpaths are, in places, also used waters. To allow the tidal estuary to by horse riders and motor cycles. become enlarged, even on a small Because of the wild life, motor cycles scale, would have dramatic effects on should be banned while horse riding, the estuary. The heightening of river because of the damage it does to walls on the Deben has already been surface, should be curtailed in areas begun and low points of the river walls which have not been give a hard have been identified by the surface. Environment Agency. Over the decades this must continue.

PUBLIC ACCESS The aim with access is to make the countryside and navigable river available to everybody. At the same time this should have minimal impact on the needs of the wild life, commercial activities and the lives of the people living in the area. Martlesham Quay The key to access is car 12 LIESURE BOAT ACCESS problematical. They appear to create Mooring Committees, who rent the erosion and silting on either side. The river bed from the Crown jetty and pontoon at Woodbridge Commissioner, all have a policy of not Boatyard and Woodbridge Cruising allowing the moorings to increase, but Club don’t seem to have done serious in practice the pressure for more boats harm, but have possibly encouraged is seeing the number of moorings silting along that side of river and may increasing. Also yachts are getting have contributed to the erosion of the larger and take up more space so that salt marsh on the opposite shore. The this is also leading to the mooring jetties at Waldringfield, and at the spreading along the river. The yacht water-skiers jetty in the Black Stakes moorings on the river are already has led to erosion below, while showing signs of filling the whole river, Bawdsey Ferry jetty has led to erosion following the pattern set on the South above the jetty and the shingle building Coast. up as well. At Ramsholt Dock the quay has led to silting up both above and High powered craft travelling at speed below, and may have deflected the tide has been an issue for several to cause erosion on the Kirton shore. decades. This is extremly dangerous for other boat users and seriously COMMERCIAL ACTIVITIES disturbs the wild life. The wash is While the leisure industry is important probably contributing to the loss of salt to the public houses, cafés and house marsh along the river. High-speed craft letting along the Deben, agriculture is are totally inappropriate for the future by far the largest and most important tranquilly to the River Deben. A industry in the area. The Suffolk coast compromise was agreed in the 1980s has become a leading area in where water skiing just took place on supplying the with the Black Stakes Reach above fresh vegetables. This depends totally Felixstowe Ferry. The speed limit on irrigation, and if the climate does should again be enforced and this get warmer and population increases, would then control the problem. the need for water of irrigation will increase. The Government has The Felixstowe-Bawdsey Ferry is an allowed irrigation water to be stored on economic venture and highly popular high ground in huge reservoirs. This is with the public and all steps should be an extremly expensive, both in capital taken to keep it going. The possibility cost and energy requirements, the old of reopening Woodbridge-Sutton and method of storing water in low lying Ramsholt-Kirton Ferries for walkers is valleys is much more environmental feasable and could be run by friendly. The Deben valley has many volunteers following the pattern of the irrigation ponds protected by the river Butley Ferry on the Butley River. walls.

Any future reopening of ferries should Over the past fifty years the number of be done from landing hards. The boats kept on swinging mooring and building of jetties has proved ashore in dinghy parks has increased 13 at the rate of about thirty boats a year. Whisstock Yard would be important The number of boats kept on the locally. The focus on the Whisstock Deben has steadily increased and the site would be to keep alive wooden pressure will be for it to go on boat building skills, funded by shops increasing. and cafes for tourists. It might even lead to the long held desire of many This means more work for the boat local people to build a replica of the yards in repair work and winter boat Sutton Hoo Anglo-Saxon longship. storage. Firstly, all existing boatyards should be maintained and planners not Along the river the most important be lured into allowing them to be features are the medieval churches converted into housing estates. In the and river walls. Keeping the ferries future boatyards will have to expand to running would also be a part of be able to take on the increasing work. keeping the rivers heritage alive. Perhaps this expansion should be in Tourism does bring an economic land rather than along the shore. stream into the area, but it is easy to There are serious problems with quays over estimate its real worth to the silting up and these have to be community. Other areas have dredged out. developed tourism projects that have not been financially stable and have The inshore fishery in the Deben and negative impacts on the area. Any the surrounding inshore waters is on a future planning on tourism should be very small scale and in future should very carefully considered. Tourism is be allowed to exist in a sustainable not the silver bullet to solve all local way. problems.

TOURISM AND HERITAGE PLANNING STRUCTURE The heritage of the River Deben is its An organization to safeguard the peaceful and productive countryside Deben valley and people living there and its tranquil tidal waters with its rich can only be creditable if it is totally wild life. The Deben’s more recent independent of all local and national history has been yachting and Government bodies. In the past local shooting and even more recently, bird authorities have showed a desire to watching. Two major national events take control of all the Deben affairs took place in the Deben Valley, the and place them under a central Sutton Hoo ship burial in 625 and the authority, presumably controlled from development of radar at Bawdsey an office in Woodbridge or Felixstowe. Manor just before the World War II. More recently Government agencies The Woodbridge Tide Mill was the last have shown a very strong desire to working tide mill in the United Kingdom take over total control of the Deben although it has struggled financially as estuary outside of their statutory flood a tourism attraction. The ship and boat protection powers. building at Woodbridge is important locally and the development of a The present structure of managing the maritime museum in part of the former tidal waters has proved successful for 14 the past fifty years. A mooring SOME HISTORY OF committee manages each anchorage RAMSHOLT and they are run for the benefit of the local community. This structure should In seeking information on the History be maintained, but it will have to be of Ramsholt I have concluded that tactfully developed to cope with the what you learn depends on who you increased pressure from leisure ask. It seems, there are no hard and boating. Any future planning will have fast facts! I have put a lot of faith in to tackle the decision whether to fill the two sisters, Margaret King and Pat river with yacht moorings or build Bendon (nee King), who were born at another marina. Poplar Farm, Ramsholt, where the family had been tenant farmers for Flood protection does need a central generations. policy so that time and resources are not wasted. Most readers are aware, I’m sure, of Robert Simper the Chuch at Ramsholt, overlooking as it has done for centuries, the wonderful river Deben. In the past, invariably being accompanied by muddy dogs that objected to being left outside anywhere when on a country walk, and myself wearing dirty boots, I had never been inside the Church of All Saints. On this day however, before entering, I wanted to look for the grave of Col. Ian Battye, who had been the River Deben Association’s first chairman and leading light on the steering committee. I soon came across a neat, unusually small head stone that bore a regimental insignia above his name, in clear relief in the low, sharp sunlight, placed deep in the rough grass under a young tree.

The Church’s history seems full of mysteries, not least the story of ’small miracles’ of St Thomas, that had occurred 800 years ago and were found among records made soon

15 after the saint was martyred at cottages of a medieval village had Canterbury in 1170. The priest at All stood: beautifully recorded in a Saints, at the time, was Edric, which is painting by John Moore C 1880, a Saxon name. showing their charming vernacular proportions so often evident in old Due to the external buttresses the Suffolk buildings, one soon enters the tower gives the illusion of being oval grazing marsh – Dock Marsh - but, from inside, I am told – for the characteristic of much of the cattle- door affording access to the inside of grazing land that had bordered the the Tower is locked - it is seen to be Deben in the past. round. At the time when it was built, plans were rarely drawn for buildings A glance to my right revealed the white of this kind and so the shape would plasterwork of Gamekeeper’s Cottage, have simply been marked out on the traditional residence of the head ground. Many, including Cautly who keeper on the ’Ramsholt Beat’, but writes, that “it is one of only two oval lived in for many years by the well towers in Suffolk”, do believe it to be known Australian water-colourist, so. Arthur Boyd – a self-effacing man in the extreme, who could be seen It is thought by some historians that walking the fields by moonlight in his the tower was originally built as a paint covered smock. He had painted Roman or Viking lookout point or a portrait in his rather loose style of old pharos , (there is an example of this George Collins, the present harbour- near Dover Castle in Kent.) I am, master’s father, who, on seeing it, said however, assured by a well known “It dooant look a bit like me” and local writer of books about the Deben, promptly handed it back to him. His that the tower is of early Norman work, which was, even then, selling for construction and therefore erected thousands of pounds in a London long after that time. The myth seems to have come from a guess by George Arnott, who put it in a book and people have just believed it.

Setting off down the track from the Church, past where, until the “sixties“ the remaining 16 gallery, was clearly not to everyman’s school which had been built in 1879 at taste ! a cost of £750 and opened with 120 children present, closed in 1927 in The present Gamekeeper, Richard spite of there being 58 pupils still Ling, retires at the end of the 2012 attending: so George, along with his ‘season,’ (January 31st) after about brothers and sisters, “had to walk the thirty years on this Estate. The old two and a half mile to Awl’erton each school and schoolhouse had at one day, to goo to school theya . . . ‘til ’38 time been used as the Gamekeeper‘s or ‘39, when there were buses”. The residence and store. In the ‘90s the building as it is today can be seen by artist Hugh Webster moved in to make going up the hill and into School Lane, his home and studio there. (Hugh can which is a very pleasant route back to be found these days at his studio-hut, the Church. in the Ferry Boatyard at Felixstowe). Now a weekend cottage, the old Dropping down, along the Hard to the school room is the main living room water’s edge, I began to imagine the and has been retained open to the hustle and bustle that must have gone rafters. on there in the past and wondered just how many boats and people had come Leaving Dock Marsh the path passes and gone from that spot. The original below the Ramsholt Arms, the narrow end of which, was originally the Ferryman’s Cottage – the Pub at that time being up the hill from the dock, later to become a private house.

Wandering down towards the Hard one finds the present Harbourmaster, George Collins “junior” – tucked up in what was described by Practical Boat Owner, as “the smallest Ramsholt School Harbourmaster’s Office in Britain” (see previous issue of The Deben) – a ‘Ramsholte Ferrye’ began in 1502 (see hut on the deck of an old red-painted 1946 edition of ‘The Place Names of hull named “Red Cap”, parked there the Deben Valley’, W.G. Arnott) and above the quay. George took over went from the Rocks, where the field from his Father in 1984 and reckons if on the top of the cliff is called ‘Ferry he “dooant goo dowan each day, the Hempland’, to Guston in Kirton Creek, tide woant com in.” but it soon moved down to operate from where I was standing, that sunny George was born in Church Cottages, morning, to the hard on the other side spending his childhood there in the which, at that time, belonged to Walton 1930s - one of six children. The village Manor who, in 1504, leased it to 17 ‘William Waller of Ramsholte, of the Fairway Committee, it having (believed to be of the same family as been formed by Norman Simper in the present Rev. John Waller of 1959 who soon became Chairman Waldringfield - owner of the boat right up until 2007. There were then, ‘Jesus’). It is not known when the as now, 200 moorings but today’s Quay on the Ramsholt side was boats are longer. originally constructed but it could have been soon after 1504 and may have Like so many of us, George reckons if been the one that was there when Sir you go to somewhere like Wales or Cuthbert Quilter bought the land from Scotland, you wonder why you had the Wallers in about 1880. Although gone there, away from the Deben. used by barges until 1926 and for Likewise, Robert Simper, when asked taking workers and produce for on a visit to Australia, “don’t you think delivery to Woodbidge across the it wild?” had thought, “well no, not river,( until the roads improved and the really, not as wild as Ramsholt” and I crossing at Wilford Bridge was must say, that when in Australia completed,) it had been deteriorating myself, I had thought it rather since the 1870s and was eventually threadbare . . . is there a cautionary washed away in the floods of 1953 tale in these stories for those of us after which the owners took advantage involved in Deben Valley management of the State scheme to finance any campaigning . . . ? damage caused and had the Dock rebuilt. In 1940, during World War II, a B17G Flying Fortress bomber plane, having Since then, in the early 2000s, the had an engine fire and mistaken the Fairway Committee, supported by the Deben for a runway, landed and sank River Deben Association; local people in 19ft of water. Yacht skipper Arthur and yachtsmen from all over the East Hunt saved the only two survivors in Coast, fought a legal battle to secure a his fishing boat. More can be seen public right of way down the Hard to about this on the walls inside the access the waterside and river for Ramsholt Arms. perpetuity. There are no recorded public footpaths The now visible remains of the Hard on down to Peyton Hall, where a moated the other side of the river were for Tudor Hall had once stood. There many years buried under silt, but this must have been a missed opportunity washed away in 1982. at some time in history to record a route surely well trodden by servants During the second World War there from the medieval village around the were evacuees from the cities in the Church - most likely along the 5 metre village, who,”- ‘cause they were contour line which meanders its way children, didn’t seem to mind the right up to the footprint of the old Hall – wildness of the place at all . . .” the origin of so many of our wonderful public footpaths of today. This George’s father was the first Chairman observation links well with what Peter 18 Wain has referred to in his piece on “Kingsfleet - The history of Gosford I remember his youngest daughter and Kingsfleet”, in Issue 44 of The Pat, telling me of how she used to Deben. cross on the ferry from Bawdsey, to go to school in Felixstowe, to which I said, Built by the land-owning Peytons who, “how lovely”. Her reply, predictably, when they moved to Ufford, became was, “all right in the summer!”. When the de Uffords, the original Tudor she first left school, Pat cycled to building is believed to have been burnt to catch the bus to Ipswich down. Peyton Hall today, stands as a each day for work. plain Victorian-fronted house with a Anne Moore “sixties” extension at the back. When the remaining back part was pulled FRANK COWDRY down, at that time the timbers were “Somebody come quick, Shaw is being dated as being of 1430 to 1470. The drowned, . . . . some fellows went and Victorian front half was built in about pulled him out from under chests, 1830. drawers, doors and woodwork of all Further down is Poplar Farm, worked descriptions. Shaw was unconscious from 1830 by the Frenches, until 1873, for 17 hours and then he died . . . . . It when the Willis family took the was two tremendous seas that came tenancy, followed in 1937 by the King aboard, higher than the main yard, that family. Herbert Frank King, known as was the cause of it.” Frank, eventually took charge from his father, Herbert. On a tape of the BBC Published in the Brightlingsea Parish Radio Suffolk, “Down Suffolk Way” Magazine in July 1910, this extract programme, recorded in 1993, he tells of collecting milk from 13 farms and taking it for distribution each day to , which he did for 9 years: ”being moost tricky at Christmas, when they all waanted to give yeo a drink!” On one memorable occasion they came home at 10.30 at night, went straight out fishing and cooked the freshly caught sole for breakfast, before starting all over again – what it was to be young!

Frank’s father, Herbert, was the first Parish-Meeting Chairman of Ramsholt from a letter from 16-year old Frank and Frank, for many years, was a Cowdry was written during his first loyal Church Warden. Inside the taste of the sea, as an apprentice Church, a framed tribute to him can be aboard the three-masted square- seen in the style of an illuminated text, rigged sailing ship, the ‘Port Elgin’. In up on the wall. 19 May 1911, when she hit rocks off the was my watch below in the early coast of Peru and sank within ten morning from 4 to 8, and when the minutes, Frank writes, “I was pulling other watch came and called me, they stroke oar in our lifeboat. We then told me that the island we were bound pulled off about 100 yards, and for, Santa, was about 5 miles ahead on watched her sink.” the port bow. I turned out of my bunk, and had a look at it, and then I had my Frank was Denzil Cowdry’s father. breakfast (a fine breakfast too, for one Denzil, for many years a leading light of the sailors had harpooned a in the RDA, visited Brightlingsea porpoise the night before, and we had Museum in 2000, and was able to his liver for breakfast. He was about 9 obtain copies of letters Frank had feet long, and it took all hands to haul written to the Vicar during his voyages. him aboard). “I knew the rough details of the wrecking in Peru,” said Denzil. “I had just finished when a boat came “However, the graphic details of the alongside with a note to the skipper seven months at sea came as a saying, ‘Please anchor your ship complete surprise to me 90 years after where you see a red flag.’ The skipper the event.” had hardly read it when a thick fog suddenly enveloped us. He sang out Events leading up to the sinking off immediately to clew up the mainsail, Peru were graphically described. “It foretopgan’s’l, and mizzen to’gan’s’l, so as to take some of the way off her. We also hove the deep sea lead, and there was 16 fathoms of water. That was at 8 o’clock, when my watch started...... At a quarter to nine, there was a shout from the forecastle head of ‘Land ahead!’ I looked over the rail, and straight ahead, about the length of the garden of our house, was land.

“Of course the skipper sang out, ‘Rack your mainyards and let go the anchor!’ and she brought up, with her jibboom end grazing the side of the cliffs, which just here are 2,000 feet high. Well, she seemed to back off a bit, about 20 yards, so he slipped his anchor and 90 fathoms of cable which we had out, but the yards filled again and she went ahead, and ran right slap bang up on the rocks, smashing a hole in her immediately, of course.” 20 After everyone had been ordered to for the mate and myself, who pulled abandon ship, Frank, having quickly the German off, for he had got the packed a bag and thrown it overboard, steward down on deck, and was going followed it into the sea and was soon to bash him with an iron belaying pin.” pulled aboard one of the lifeboats. The surf was too strong for them to make The passage began when “we left New shore safely, but “we saw some York, January 11th, in tow, making a natives coming out in a surf-boat, and passage through ice till we got off they took us ashore.” Then followed an Sandy Hook; there we dropped both 8-mile trek to the nearest port, with one tow boat and pilot, and made for the of the “natives” acting as a guide. “My open sea, as best as our frozen sails word, that was a tramp! Up to your and gear would allow us...... Thurs ankles in dust, over high mountains Jan13th – Had a terrible accident and down valleys, and I with my heavy yesterday morning. We of the bag.” starboard watch were just going below, having been on deck from midnight to The port was called Chimbote. From 4am, when we heard the mate here they were taken by a visiting shouting, ‘Call all hands. The wheel steamer down to Callao, where they has gone!’ . . . . . she had shipped a were appreciative guests of the heavy sea over the stern, and washed Seamen’s Mission. A comment in the away the two men from the wheel, the Brightlingsea Parish Magazine wheel too, and the wheel-box, and suggests that young Frank regarded compasses – smashed in the cabin his adventures as a bit of a holiday, skylight, and after-end of the chart- and was “quite ready for work again”, house, and carried away half the and adds that a subsequent enquiry taffrail round the poop . . . . Of course, entirely exonerated the Captain of the when the wheel went, she immediately ‘Port Elgin’ and all his officers from any broached to.” blame for the disaster. Frank continues, “We all thought we In January the following year, we find should be lost; even the Old Man said Frank aboard another square-rigger, it was all up with us. The ship was the Port Patrick, leaving New York for simply on her beam-ends, and Adelaide. He later describes this as “a absolutely full up with water at the very unlucky passage”, having time. She couldn’t shake herself clear, “dropped anchor in the Bay, 135 days but just lay in the trough of the sea, out from New York, a record passage every wave breaking clean over her. for slowness . . . . This has been the We stood up on the poop, waiting for worst passage I ever made for the masts and yards to come down, quarrels, rows, etc with the men and to see the hatches, bridge and forrard ...... only the day before house swept off the deck. But she yesterday, it nearly came to murder behaved splendidly, and after a time, between a German and the steward, we managed to put a piece of canvas who is a Scotchman. The steward up in the mizzen rigging, which pushed would have been killed had it not been her stern off, and her head up into the 21 wind, and the tiller being lashed hard 5th we read that “From Sunday up to over, the ship lay like that for two last night we were head reaching, days.” under 3 lower topsails, going about 2 knots ahead and 3 broadside on. On On January 18th and 19th, after Monday we were put on a short dumping considerable quantities of allowance of water – the Captain is cargo “so as to lighten the ship up aft, afraid it won’t last – and also on three- and also to enable us to get up an old quarter whack of food.” spare wheel which we had down there”, they were able to lash together On May 9th, while hove-to during the the spare wheel and fasten hoop-iron night, “a big sea broke aboard, around it to make it serviceable. After smashing up the starboard lifeboat bending on new sails to replace those and bridge. We shall look a pretty blown away, they were at last under battered old wreck, when we reach way again. port.” Ten days later he writes, “. . . On Saturday a sea broke over the foc’sle “Mon Jan 22 – When one of the head, and carried away the port apprentices went to call the mate at a lighthouse side-light and bucket rack, quarter to 12, he found him lying under washing half-a-dozen buckets his bunk, fully dressed, dead. . . . . we overside. Stick it, ‘Port Patrick’! 645 buried him at 9 today, the ship being more miles to do; 129 days out.” hove-to, and the ensign hoisted half- mast ...... Eleven days out, and Then, on Tuesday 21st May, “At last three of us gone; lost half our canvas, we have sighted the flash of Adelaide and the ship smashed up!” light, away on the starboard bow. 131 days out.” On the 135th day the ship Wed Jan 31 – We have been hove-to dropped anchor, safe in port. since Sunday night. Blowing very hard; the Captain thinks it is a hurricane: The Editor of the Brightlingsea Parish very heavy sea. Bad luck is following Magazine concludes with the us this passage, all through.” following: “We should think that few lads have had such an adventurous If that were not enough, when the Port experience during their first two years Patrick crossed the Equator, some at sea, as our young friend has had. unfortunate apprentices were We heartily wish him better luck in the sentenced to have their faces painted future, in that line of life for which he with tar before the barber “shaved him has proved himself eminently suited. with a big wooden razor. Neptune then gives him a dose of medicine, to make Pictures of ‘Port Patrick’ supplied by him strong enough to cross the line W-M from the State of Victoria Library (the medicine is made up of soapy water), and then a good drenching in http://www.clydesite.co.uk/clydebuilt/vi the tub finishes it . . . .” ewship.asp?id=16658

With another 17 days to go, on May Leigh Belcham 22 ‘ARTISTS AND WRITERS’ articulates the ideas behind her work and the fluency with which she speaks. MARGARET WYLLIE Her energy and passion for her work as an artist is ingrained in every word and idea.

Miggie has had a long association with the Deben. She first came here as a child and sailed Kingfishers and the Cherub produced by Everson’s. She lived beside the Deben for over a year at Bawdsey. Currently, she sails ‘Piper’ a Fisher 25 with her husband and ‘technician’ Jim. She says that although she sketches on board she paints less of the Deben than she used to as she is exploring new areas and themes. Martello at Bawdsey Miggie has a passion for the coastline, I met Margaret Wyllie, known as the landscape and the sea and many Miggie, in her studio and workshop. of her pictures reflect this. She is Although Miggie has painted currently involved in the Tidal Margins throughout her life she took a degree project and I regretted not going to the in her late fifties and has only exhibited preview where I could have bought her since then. One of the first things that impressed me is the prodigious output and range of projects Miggie has been involved with. Her work includes her paintings and drawings and a series of conceptual art installations. She has undertaken a number of commissions for murals and illustrates the Cedric series of children’s books.

Her training as a teacher is obvious in the way she ‘Fragile Coast’

23 latest painting of East Lane which the whole thing from the beginning out evokes the power and darkness of the ..and I gave it a frill at the bottom..it is area with its history and current supposed to represent the family meal erosion. which people don’t have any more. But again it made people react. One Miggie’s conceptual art and women said ‘ Well I sit down with my installations fascinate me. Although children.’ But I got a reaction! I offered you would not describe Miggie as a an image of it to Tescoe but they said political activist her conceptual art is it wasn’t relevant. often inspired by a controversial theme or idea which strikes her and this forms At Christ Church Mansion Miggie the basis for the conceptual piece. completed a series of ‘balls’ made out While the theme is evoked in the piece of flowers, leaves and twigs it is the nature of the ’communication representing the seasons. In Ipswich and interaction’ between the piece and she made a series of pieces to convey the observer and the artist which the history and changing ownership of intrigues Miggie. the Ancient House.

Miggie who at one time ran a farm with Miggie’s love of the coastal landscape Jim has painted several pictures about and the dynamics of erosion, change farming. ‘The work commented on the and intervention is encaptured in state of farming today , particularly the several local installations. In ‘Stone outbreaks of disease amongst humans Circle’ she constructed a circle of and stock as a result of our factory stones on the Knolls at Bawdsey and farming methods..’ photographed them over several tides Miggie has taken a number of as the sea gradually washed them controversial ‘headlines’, and these away. repeated over and over again form the waves of the grass and the crops. In ‘Fragile Coast’ Miggie drew attention to the hard and brutal qualities of the Miggie was Artist in Residence at Otley rock armour at Felixstowe Ferry College and during this time she contrasted with the soft, and gentle completed ‘Roofing’ and ‘Coffee Break’ qualities of the texture of the sand of which was about the stressed lecturers the beach and the flowing lines of the and their coffee breaks. shore at Felixstowe by placing a bright pink soft ‘furfabric’ covered rock in the Talking about the piece, a table cloth midst of the rock armour. ‘Again I entitled ‘Tesco’ , Miggie says - ‘Tesco wanted to make people think. ‘It took a used to have a monthly recipe book, thousand balloons to make up the ‘but it is all about double standards and ‘rock’ ‘We spent a day blowing up the self deception.. making young women balloons with a kite surfing pump and it think they are cooking like their was so big that it had to be made in the Victorian aunts when it is just a boat yard shed at the Ferry and construction.’. ‘I was into crochet and transported on John Whites boat.’ PVA glue at the time.. and I crocheted 24 In ‘Endangered Species’ Miggie re- Possibly Miggie’s most dramatic piece used the pink furfabrick from the ‘rock’ of conceptual art is ‘Testament’. In this to bandage the groynes on the piece Miggie cut up (‘deconstructed’ ) Bawdsey shore in front of the sign a bible and then knitted it to make the which read ‘Danger Decaying piece which hung in Ramsholt Church Groynes’. ‘It just seemed terrible that and in Ely Cathedral. they weren’t restoring and repairing them - because they work!’

Miggie’s re-use of the ‘furfabric’ reflected another theme of Miggie’s which is re using materials and as she says ‘I frequently reconstruct familiar objects, giving them an arresting new image, and hopefully provoking thought.’ Her Christmas day installation on the Knolls was made from items washed up on the beach. Ironically, the fish crate which formed the centre piece of the installation was taken from the piece after a short time. Maybe as Miggie says this was in the spirit of the theme. ‘Testament’ - knitting Another memorable installation was detritus used to spell out a huge ‘I laminated it with cellotape on one slogan on the beach at Bawdsey side…then I didn’t cut it into strips, I cut ‘Please take your rubbish home’ This it round - so it ended up as a long involved Jim and Miggie collecting the spiral - so from beginning to end it was rubbish from the beach in black plastic one piece and it made a rather wiggly bags over several weeks. Each item and difficult to handle knitting wool.’ took on a significance in the context of ‘I started knitting it on Ipswich Station - the other items and as part of the large as you do. Most people avoided me letters of the slogan itself. It made me because obviously they knew I was think of all the ‘stories’ behind the mad. But this women came up and items and the journey they had made said by land and water to end up on the ‘ What are you doing? I love knitting! ‘ beach, in addition to the theme itself. I ‘I am knitting the Bible’ wondered why there are so many ‘Oh’ she said ‘ I don’t go to Church. I single shoes washed up on the beach. don’t believe in God’ What happens to the other ones? As ‘And then she started telling me how Miggie says one of the problems of we are as human beings and how we making installations from rubbish is should behave towards each other. that you have to take responsibility for Well if that is not spirituality I don’t the rubbish at the end. know what is!’ 25 with family life. However, one of the most impressive aspects of the work is the realisation of the painstaking nature of the constructions and the many hours that goes into the craft of making a piece aside from the original inspiration.

David Bucknell

(A recording of this interview together with the associated images will be on the RDA website in the future.)

MEMORIES OF BAWDSEY QUAY

My grandfather, Harry Edmonds, was born in Orford in the 1880’s, son of the school master he worked as a ‘Testament’ gardener at Hall. It was at Ramsholt there that he met my grandmother, ‘All of this is about communication and Lillian McLean, who worked as a interpretation. A lot of people thought nursery maid. They married in it was a religious statement which it Sudbourne church and moved into to a isn’t. What annoys me about the whole small cottage nestling beneath the business is that the bible is in every castle in Orford where they brought up hotel room drawer and you don’t have three children. My grandfather was a to read it, you don’t have to bother with life-long friend of the Brinkley family it, but to cut it up is to consider to defile who farmed Havergate Island - my 95 it. If you are going to really question it year old mother well remembers and pull it into bits, which is what I am spending her summer holidays there doing, and to try and understand it and as well as Christmases. The Brinkley think about it fully, that is much more family had two boys Charlie and Bill – valuable than to have it there, saying who was always Uncle Bill to me. well there it is, I have got to respect it, but I don’t have to read it.’ Grandfather turned his hand to many things other than gardening and Miggie is currently working on the next eventually decided to up sticks and phase of paintings for Tidal Margins 2’ move to Kent where he hoped to make Talking to Miggie you become aware of a living building properties in the challenge of creative work; some developing villages. As my mother tells of the stresses when the work is not the story, Bill had recently been going well and the task of combining it ‘crossed in love’ which caused his hair 26 taxi to Felixstowe Ferry. But the worst part was the ferry ride across the Deben to Bawdsey Quay. Gran hated water and it took a very long time to persuade her to get aboard the boat. Once across she never, ever went on the ferry again! Quay cottages under construction circa 1890 I remember my first ‘to turn white overnight.’ (I must say visit as a child to 2, Quay Cottages. It that I only remember Uncle Bill as felt as though Bawdsey Quay was at having white hair but then everyone the end of the world - especially as it over 30 seems ancient when you are a was blowing a gale and lashing with small child). When the Edmonds family rain at the time. But Gran was happy moved Bill Brinkley moved with them, there. She planted roses in her remaining with them for decades. garden, though I have no idea how they survived in such sandy soil. Bill Brinkley was a loner and a man of However, I am assured by Lillian Lloyd few words, a shepherd on the Kent (a previous owner) that they still marshes, which suited him well. Sadly, survive and flourish. I remember a my grandfather died of thrombosis in huge solid fuel range (which gran 1953, still a relatively young man, regularly blacked) that turned out the which left Gran and Bill in the house best Yorkshire puddings ever as well together. Gran worried; what would as roast pheasants that met their end people say about them living under the by unusual accidents. Gran was same roof, it wasn’t seemly, so Bill had friendly with the Escotts who lived next to leave. He returned to Suffolk to live door - I think Reg Escott had with his elder brother Charlie – Hooky something to do with the accidents! to most people (apparently, his hand That range was a source of great was blown off in a shooting accident interest to me as I could never on Havergate Island one Christmas) – understand how you judged just how who for years had run the ferry much fuel to add to the roaring fire in between Bawdsey Quay and order to keep the oven at the correct Felixstowe Ferry. But Gran pined and temperature. Anyway, Gran, Charlie about three years later agreed to move and Bill seemed to have the system to Bawdsey Quay to act as cracked. housekeeper to the two old men. The move was long and traumatic. A train Gran and I would go beachcombing for from Kent to London followed by more pieces of amber and sea coal that had trains to Ipswich and Felixstowe then a washed up on sparkling, sunny days 27 when the river looked gorgeous – far less crowded with yachts than it is today. Playing cricket on the stretch of sand close to the jetty – few people visited The Quay in those days. Gran and I would walk to the NAFFI where she was allowed to shop, there being no shop in Charlie ‘the hook’ Brinkley helming the ferry Bawdsey village. Once a week she day Bill and Charlie would walk to the caught the bus into Woodbridge, flag pole to survey the sky, leaving early in the morning and not pronouncing in their broad Suffolk returning until well into the afternoon. It accents their weather prediction for the was the only time she left Bawdsey day. I don’t remember whether they Quay. Charlie and Bill eagerly awaited were right or wrong. her return with the table set for tea – no doubt she brought something good Charlie eventually died, leaving Bill to eat. A young man called Peter and Gran together for a time (clearly, Shelcott, who lived in Bawdsey village, gran must have thought them too old ran a mobile shop. He delivered the for people to gossip) before Bill too newspapers every day as well as became ill and died in Eye hospital. visiting with his shop a couple of times Gran continued living at 2, Quay a week. Despite being such a small Cottages for a couple of years but was and remote community it was a struggling to look after herself. She friendly place with much activity from ended her days living with her the RAF chaps and, of course, there daughter in Ipswich, by then an old was always something happening on lady of 87. the river. In my mind little changed over the Both Bill and Charlie were quiet, kind years at Bawdsey Quay until the men. Charlie had relinquished the ferry refurbishment of the quay a couple of to his son ‘young Charlie’ who deeply years ago. Even so the changes are resembled Uncle Bill. In those days few – no flagpole, more signs, more there was a flag pole on Bawdsey people and a smarter car park and Quay and the flag was ceremonially jetty, but that’s not bad in today’s raised and lowered morning and world. Long may it continue to be the evening by RAF personnel. Twice a unspoiled place that it still is.

28 Out of interest did you know that there discharged - which resembles a hook. is such a thing as a Brinkley Stick – a It was so named by RAF staff at portable safety device used for Bawdsey after Charlie Brinkley, the discharging high voltage capacitors amputee with a hook, who ferried them (two and a quarter million volts) and across the Deben. ensuring HT electrical circuits are Judy Clements

LETTERS

(In 2012 Clare Barfield ‘googled’ Eversons and found the story of the two sisters. I put her in touch with Ron Everson)

Dear David

Oh yes Ron Everson did contact me, much surprised to hear about a side of the family and a cousin quite unknown to him. He was of the impression that my grandmother died very young and so never married to say nothing of children. He was delighted to hear from me, and we have written quite a number of times already.

He has been a great help to me, but it has also been marvellous to get to know him.

I cannot thank you enough, and if I have failed to do this properly already then I am very sorry. Your help really turned my research around and it has been great fun "talking" to Ron.

One thing I would like to ask: would it be ok to quote from your article in my family story? It is only for the eyes of the family, I have no intention of putting it on the internet etc...

Once again, thank you so much for taking the trouble to put me in touch with Ron when I am sure you have many more pressing things to do.

Best Wishes

Clare 8 June 2012

29 AUTUMNAUTUMN MEETINGMEETING to be held at: to be held at Walton Community Hall High Street, Walton, Felixstowe IP11 9DS OnWaldringfield Friday 28th October Village 2011 at 7.30pmHall School Lane, Waldringfield. IP12 4QP Mr. Gerald Jenkins On Friday 9th November 2012 at 7.30pm will give a talk TOURISM and the DEBEN: “Theis it Mystery killing the ofgolden the egg?Tides”

‘A fascinating explanationThe of speakers:the differing times of high tides on the East Anglian and other coasts but beginning and ending in Nick Collinson, ManagerWaldringfield’ of the Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB The eveningand also offers A bookstall Alex Paul, a DirectorInterval of Suffolk glass of Coast wine Ltd, that markets thisDisplays area as of a Debentourist destinationprojects

BothPhotographic speakers will outline competition: the measures bring taken byone their Deben- respective organisations to mitigate the effects of tourism on the Deben valley. related photo, taken by you. RefreshmentsA4 max will affixed be followed to card. by questions £25 prize for photo with most votes. 30