Cycle Touring in New Zealand (8.8
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Cycle Touring in New Zealand A handbook for self-guided bicycle touring David Stillaman Neil Becker i Cycle Touring in New Zealand Copyright © 2019 David Stillaman & Neil Becker All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. Portions of this book were created using OpenStreetMap1 Copyright © OpenStreetMap contributors Edition 6 November 2019 1e402ff1-2f53-40f4-b21b-9ce6f309c896 cycletour.org.nz 1www.openstreetmap.org ii Preface to the First Edition Way back in 2003 I was planning a solo cycle trip somewhere in New Zealand. But where to go? Where were the beauty spots? Which roads should I avoid? And what services could I expect to find? This was back before the New Zealand Cycle Trail was even a twinkle in a Kennett brother’s eye, before the launch of Google maps, and before blogging had taken hold. What a joy then it was to stumble across David Stillaman’s website cycletour.org.nz ; crammed with useful advice and with the promise of so much happy, cycling freedom. That year I followed some of David’s suggested South Island routes and by the end of the tour I was completely hooked. New Zealand has seen a phenomenal uptake in cycling, especially since the opening of the New Zealand Cycle Trail circa 2009. Along with this have come a growing number of online cycling resources. But still the cycletour site continues to hold its own, being one of the few websites devoted to self-guided touring. A wee gem that maintains a small but loyal following. A while ago a reader suggested it’d be nice to have an offline version of the information to travel with, and this e-book - a direct transcription of the website - is the result. Enjoy! Neil Becker January 2014 Contents Preface ii Contents iii I The North Island 1 1 Northland-Auckland 3 1.1 Auckland to Dargaville . .3 1.1.1 Auckland to Parakai (51k) . .4 1.1.2 Auckland to Parakai by Train (30k) . .5 1.1.3 Parakai to Dargaville via Pouto Point (72k) . .6 1.2 Dargaville to Rawene via the Kauri Coast (107k) . .8 1.3 Rawene to Cape Reinga via Ninety Mile Beach . 12 1.3.1 Rawene to Ahipara (63k) . 13 1.3.2 Ahipara to Cape Reinga via 90 Mile Beach (105k) . 14 1.4 Auckland to Mangawhai . 16 1.4.1 Auckland to Helensville from Waitakere Station (≈35k) . 17 1.4.2 Helensville to Mangawhai (85k) . 18 1.4.3 Wellsford to Waipu via Mangawhai Road (53k) . 19 1.5 Mangawhai to the Bay of Islands . 21 1.5.1 Mangawhai to Whangarei (≈65k) . 22 1.5.2 Whangarei to the Bay of Islands via Oakura (82k) . 23 2 Waikato-Coromandel 24 2.1 Auckland to Kawhia . 24 2.1.1 Pukekohe to Waingaro (78k) . 25 2.1.2 Waingaro to Raglan (32k) . 26 2.1.3 Raglan to Kawhia (53k) . 27 2.2 Kawhia to Mokau . 29 2.2.1 Kawhia to Marokopa (71k) . 30 2.2.2 Marokopa to Mokau (64k) . 31 2.3 Hamilton to Waitara . 33 2.3.1 Hamilton to Te Kuiti (82k) . 34 2.3.2 Te Kuiti to Mokau (78k) . 35 2.3.3 Mokau to Waitara (70k) . 36 2.4 The Coromandel Peninsula - Introduction . 37 2.5 Papakura to Coromandel . 39 2.6 Coromandel to Waihi . 44 3 Bay Of Plenty-East Cape 50 iii CONTENTS iv 3.1 Tauranga to Opotiki . 50 3.1.1 Tauranga to Whakatane (90k) . 51 3.1.2 Whakatane to Opotiki (45k) . 52 3.2 East Cape - Introduction . 53 3.3 Opotiki to Te Araroa . 54 3.3.1 Opotiki to Te Kaha (66k) . 55 3.3.2 Te Kaha to Te Araroa (93k) . 56 3.4 Te Araroa to Gisborne . 57 3.4.1 Te Araroa to Tokomaru Bay (80k) . 58 3.4.2 Tokomaru Bay to Anaura Bay (31k) . 59 3.4.3 Tokomaru Bay to Gisborne (90k) . 59 4 Hawkes Bay 61 4.1 Gisborne to Wairoa . 61 4.1.1 Gisborne to Matawai via Rere (95k) . 62 4.1.2 Gisborne to Wairoa via Tiniroto (100k) . 63 4.1.3 Gisborne to Wairoa via Morere (2 days, 98k) . 64 4.1.4 Gisborne to Wairoa via Mahia (2 days, 123k) . 65 4.2 Wairoa to Napier . 67 4.2.1 Wairoa to Lake Tutira (80k) . 68 4.2.2 Lake Tutira to Napier (38k) . 69 4.3 Napier to Herbertville . 70 4.3.1 Napier to Blackhead Beach (111k) . 71 4.3.2 Blackhead Beach to Herbertville (60k) . 72 5 Taranaki 74 5.1 The Forgotten World Highway . 74 5.1.1 New Plymouth to Whangamomona (91k) . 75 5.1.2 Whangamomona to Taumaranui (87k) . 76 6 Manawatu-Wanganui 78 6.1 Te Kuiti to Whanganui . 78 6.1.1 Te Kuiti to Taumaranui (104k) . 79 6.1.2 Taumaranui to Pipiriki by Canoe or Kayak (3-5 days recommended) 80 6.1.3 Pipiriki to Whanganui (77k) . 81 6.2 Taumaranui to Ohakune . 83 6.2.1 Taumaranui to Whakahoro (74k) . 84 6.2.2 Whakahoro to Ohakune (86k) . 85 6.3 Ohakune to Masterton . 87 6.3.1 Ohakune to Taihape (71k) . 88 6.3.2 Taihape to Palmerston North (2-3 days, ≈155k) . 89 6.3.3 Palmerston North to Masterton via Pahiatua (110k) . 91 CONTENTS v 7 Wairarapa-Wellington 92 7.1 Herbertville to Featherston . 92 7.1.1 Herbertville to Tiraumea (74k) . 93 7.1.2 Tiraumea to Featherston (106k) . 94 7.2 Cape Palliser (2+ days, 140k) . 96 7.3 Featherston & down to Wellington . 100 7.3.1 Featherston to Wellington via Orongorongo Station (84 - 104k) . 101 7.3.2 Featherston to Wellington via the Remutaka Rail Trail (80k) . 103 7.3.3 Wellington "Round the Bays" Loop (37k) . 104 II The South Island 106 8 Nelson-Marlborough 108 8.1 Arriving at Picton by Ferry from Wellington . 108 8.2 Picton to Nelson . 110 8.2.1 Pelorus to Nelson via the Maungatapu Road (35k) . 112 8.3 Nelson to Takaka via Motueka . 114 8.3.1 Nelson to Motueka (54k) . 115 8.3.2 Motueka to Takaka (57k) . 116 8.4 Golden Bay . 117 8.5 Motueka to Murchison via Tapawera . 120 8.5.1 Motueka to Tapawera (50k) . 121 8.5.2 Tapawera to Murchison (82k) . 122 8.6 Murchison to Christchurch via the Lewis Pass . 123 8.6.1 Murchison to Maruia Springs (110k) . 124 8.6.2 Maruia Springs to Hanmer Springs (85k) . 126 8.6.3 Hanmer Springs to Christchurch (108k) . 126 8.6.4 Amberley to Sheffield via Route 72 (79k) . 127 8.7 St Arnaud and Beyond . 128 8.7.1 Rainbow Road (130 km) . 129 8.7.2 St Arnaud to Blenheim (102k) . 130 8.8 Molesworth Road (175k) . 131 8.9 Picton to Kaikoura . 134 9 Canterbury 137 9.1 Kaikoura to Christchurch . 137 9.1.1 Kaikoura to Cheviot (72k) . 138 9.1.2 Cheviot to Christchurch (114k) . 139 9.1.3 Kaikoura to Waipara via the Inland Road (145k) . 140 9.2 Christchurch & Inland to the Mackenzie Country . 141 9.2.1 Christchurch to Geraldine (172k) . 143 9.2.2 Geraldine to Tekapo via Fairlie (114k) . 144 CONTENTS vi 9.3 Tekapo to Omarama and Beyond . 146 9.3.1 Tekapo to Omarama (88k) . 147 9.3.2 Omarama to Oamaru & the East Coast (120k) . 148 9.3.3 Duntroon to Naseby via Danseys Pass (65k) . 149 9.3.4 Omarama to Cromwell (120k) . 150 9.3.5 Omarama to St Bathans (65k) . 151 9.4 Down the Coast to Dunedin and Inland to Middlemarch . 153 9.4.1 Oamaru to Waikouaiti (80k) . 154 9.4.2 Waikouaiti to Middlemarch (60k) . 155 9.4.3 Waikouaiti to Dunedin via Karitane (43k) . 156 10 West Coast 157 10.1 Wanaka to Fox Glacier . 157 10.1.1 Wanaka to Makarora (64k) . 158 10.1.2 Makarora to Haast (81k) . 159 10.1.3 Haast to Fox Glacier (119k) . 160 10.2 Fox Glacier to Greymouth . 161 10.2.1 Fox Glacier to Harihari (85k) . ..