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Jan B. Hurych OBSAH • Úvodem • Západ Končí U Pacifiku • Přes

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Jan B. Hurych OBSAH • Úvodem • Západ Končí U Pacifiku • Přes Jan B. Hurych OBSAH • Úvodem • Západ kon čí u Pacifiku • P řes hranice • Fort Edmonton • Na západ od Edmontonu • Jasperský park • Head-Smash-In Buffalo Jump • Rozlou čení s Canmorem • Three Valley Gap • Jezero Okanagan • M ěsto Vancouver • Zem ě zvaná Cariboo • Zlatá hore čka • Victoria a ostrov Vancouver • P říloha: Trochu historie Reportáž o cest ě automobilem p řes Skalisté hory. Fotografie ©A ťa Hurychová. Copyright Jan B. Hurych. Kopírování tohoto materiálu není dovoleno. Pro p řetisk, publikování nebo jinou reprodukci, a ť už vcelku nebo jen z části, je t řeba nejd říve získat svolení autora. Všechna jména osob a institucí jsou fiktivní vyjma tam, kde je vyložen ě stanoveno jinak. Write to/ BOL-37-54 Autor : Jan B. Hurych Název : NA ZÁPAD K PACIFIKU Kapitola: Úvodem ÚVODEM. V mé knize "GO WEST!" jsem napsal, že jsem na západ odešel vlastn ě t řikrát: nejprve do Londýna, odtamtud do Kanady a pozd ěji do prérií. Musím to trochu poopravit: z prérií jsem odejel ješt ě víc západn ěji, až k Pacifiku. Bylo to ovšem jen o dovolené, ale byl to výlet dlouhý a ješt ě dobrodružn ější, než ty cesty p ředtím. Pravda, létal jsem s CPAir d říve ješt ě dále na západ, až do Japonska (viz moje kniha "SAYONARA") , ale tam už to je zase úplný "východ". Rozdíl kultur, které žijí na odlišných stranách Pacifiku, je opravdu zna čný a není to jen tou vzdáleností. On totiž "západ" není jenom orientace či sm ěr, "západ" je také filozofie života. Pobyli jsme s mou paní A ťou - fotografie v knize jsou od ní - na prérii, v Saskatchewanské provincii, skoro čty ři roky; to když jsem tehdy p řijal nabídku práce na západ ě. D ůvod ů bylo n ěkolik: byla to práce, co m ě bavila, totiž navrhování elektráren a Saskatoon, kde jsme m ěli žít, bylo a ješt ě je m ěsto opravdu krásné. Je to n ěco jako Ottawa, ale na prérii. Má asi 160 tisíc obyvatel, velkou univerzitu, kam chodí studovat nejen Kana ďané, ale i Ameri čané a Angli čané (myslím ty z Evropy :-)), má pár divadel, dv ě katedrály a hromadu kostel ů, kde se konají koncerty student ů univerzity, z místní Fakulty um ění. Kulturn ě se tam tedy člov ěk "vyžije" až dost a údolí řeky Jižní Saskatchewan je opravdu půvabné a když na to te ď vzpomínám, nezažil jsem vlastn ě hez čí po časí než na prérii. Však také má Saskatoon nejvíc slune čných dn ů v celé Kanad ě a i pr ůměrný v ěk obyvatel je tam nejdelší. Byl ovšem ješt ě jeden d ůvod, pro č jsme tam šli: neznajíce p říliš ješt ě západní Kanadu, cht ěli jsme to práv ě napravit. Toužili jsme poznat další západní provincie a tak jsme si ud ělali nejprve m ěsí ční výlet po Albert ě, hlavn ě východní stranu Skalistých hor. To nás tak nadchlo, že jsme tam pak jezdili často. Z Alberty je to totiž (ovšem jen mezi 50 a 55 rovnob ěžkou, táhne se totiž až k rovnob ěžce 60té) do Saskatoonu netrvá víc, než osm hodin jízdy. Projeli jsme práv ě i Skalisté hory, ale jen podél, ješt ě ne nap říč. Tam už totiž za číná provincie Britská Kolumbie, která se práv ě táhne až k Pacifiku. Cht ěli jsme p ůvodn ě kdysi projet celou Kanadu ve vlaku, ve vyhlídkovém voze, tak jak jsme to vid ěli v televizi. Je to nádherný výlet, ale po pravd ě řečeno - bez dlouhých zastávek, výlet ů do okolí a styku s místními lidmi - je to po řád jen jako v televizi. Existuje ovšem také kratší železni ční trasa, jen pro Skalisté hory, a sice z Calgary až do Vancouveru, ale chcete-li zažít dobrodružství, nejlepší je jet autem. Anebo i oby čejným kolem - u ledovcového pole na Sunwapt ě jsme uvid ěli takových pár vytrvalc ů, ale o tom se už do čtete v této knize. V té dob ě už jsme také procestovali dole ve Spojených Státech Montanu, sousedící se Sastatchewanem na jihu (viz moje kniha "MONTANA, MY LOVE") a naplánovali jsme si tedy výlet ješt ě dál na západ. Prost ě p řes Kanadu až k Pacifickému oceánu a jižní cestou zase p řes Spojené Státy zp ět. Padla na to celá dovolená, ale po absolvování této cesty jsme se mohli pak chlubit, že jsme už - ovšem na t ři zátahy a v r ůzných obdobích - projeli celou Kanadu napodél. Po pravd ě řečeno, nejen projeli, ale i postupn ě prožili: deset let v Montrealu, dev ět v Oakvillu u Toronta, čty ři v Saskatchewanu na prérii a te ď už zase deset let v ontárijském Kincardinu, u Huronského jezera. A o té jedné dlouhé cest ě k Pacifiku je práv ě tato kniha . Autor Autor : Jan B. Hurych Název : NA ZÁPAD K PACIFIKU Nejprve: Západ kon čí u Pacifiku ZÁPAD KON ČÍ U PACIFIKU Pro tu první cestu z Toronta do Saskatoonu, kam jsem odešel za prací, jsem vybral ze dvou možných tras práv ě tu obtížn ější, ale také daleko hez čí, protože šla kolem "ho řejšího" b řehu Ho řejšího jezera, Lake Superior . Na cestu jsme vyrazili t ři: Aťa, která šoférovala, já, který jakožto hlavní kameraman jsem to všecko filmoval a Tara , naše psina, která se vesele povalovala na zadním sedadle, zatímco my dva jsme se tla čili vp ředu. A abych nezapomn ěl: také naše staré auto, oldsmobilka Firenza , která nás tam chudinka desetiletá - to je lidském v ěku asi tak osmdesát let, ne? – m ěla i v bezpe čí dovézt. Ovšem za p ředpokladu, že se budeme hodn ě a často modlit. Dovezla nás ale dob ře a když jsem plánoval cestu k Pacifiku, byla už zase o dva roky starší. V ěděl jsem, že Oldsmobil je automobil dobré kvality: p ředtím jsme m ěl 10 let Olds Cutlass, se kterým jsem byl za jeho život, tj. asi t řináct let, jen dvakrát v opravn ě, nepo čítám-li novou baterii, pneumatiky a tlumi č, které u žádného auta deset let nevydrží. Pochopiteln ě jsem n ějaké ty trampoty u Firenzy o čekával, byla to kdysi super-nová série, ovšem bylo t ěch trampot ješt ě víc a to nejen díky stá ří téže. Cesta p řes Skalisté hory (Rockies) byla totiž daleko obtížnější, dokonce bych řekl nebezpe čnější, nežli naše první cesta p řes prérii, kde jsme hory vid ěli jen z dálky. Vypravit se se starším autem p řes nejv ětší hory v Severní Americe, tedy k mo ři a zp ět, je zna čně riskantní, zvlášt ě v místech, kde nejbližší benzinová stanice je až 40 km vzdálena, o opravnách ani nemluv ě. Jenže vylepšovat auto p ředem nem ělo cenu: podle mých zkušeností se vám totiž staré auto rozbije zrovna jinde, než kde jste práv ě - pracn ě a draze - vym ěnili sou částky. Což je logické, uvážíme-li, že vym ěněné sou částky jsou vlastn ě zbrusu nové, takže ješt ě nem ěly čas zestárnout, zatímco ty ostatní jsou staré a co víc, všechny stejn ě staré. A uhodn ěte si zrovna tu, co se vám p říšt ě rozbije u tak starého auta! Výsledkem bude, že se vám staré auto porouchá prakticky stejn ě rychle jako kdybyste s ním nic ned ělali. Jenže kupovat nové auto jsem necht ěl, to už by pak po cest ě p řes Rockies nebylo v ůbec nové :-). Na cestu. Byly to také asi moje "skotské" ko řeny, které mi nedovolily koupit nové auto, protože jsem v ěděl, že za dva roky mou práci na prérii kon čím a cht ěl jsem to ješt ě n ějak "vydržet". A protože jsem pak hned m ěl jít do penze, plánoval jsem koupi nového auta až "na pak". Brát si na takovou drsnou cestu nové auto je sice pohodlné, ale už v ůbec ne tak romantické, nemluv ě o všech drsných podmínkách na cest ě, které vám z nového auta ud ělají velice rychle - a navíc před časn ě - auto zestárlé. Musím se také p řiznat, že jsem m ěl naši Firenzu docela rád Saskatoon v zim ě - bylo mi, jako kdybych m ěl zahodit do šrotu i kus sebe a tajn ě jsem ovšem doufal, že tu cestu a ty dva roky pak ješt ě n ějak vydrží, však je to Oldsmobile , ne? V tom nás auto nezklamalo. Cestu tam i zp ět absolvovalo, i když s r ůznými opravami, vcelku dob ře a dovezlo nás po t ěch dvou letech pak ješt ě zpátky p řes p ůl Kanady do Ontaria. Bylo to prost ě riziko, které nám náhodou vyšlo :-). Můj plán byl celkem jasný: vyjet na severozápad, p řekro čit hranice Alberty a pak ji projet sm ěrem jižním, tj. k řížem i krážem a teprve pak p řekro čit, vlastn ě p řejet, Skalisté hory do Britské Kolumbie. Tam zahnout na jih do Kelowny a pak p římo na západ, do Vancouveru. A ješt ě se p řeplavit ferry-boatem, tj. lodí pro auta, na Vancouver Island, odkud se vydáme pak zase zp ět, ale cestou jinou, po Spojených státech. První část naší cesty sledovala částe čně i trail, mín ěno stezku zlatokop ů na cest ě do Klondiku. To byli tzv. " overlanders ", kte ří se dopravovali po zemi, zatímco ti druzí si vzali v Seattlu či Vancouveru lo ď a jeli co nejdál na sever, kde se pak s nasazením života šplhali p řes Chilcootský pr ůsmyk . Když se totiž v roce 1898 našlo na Klondiku zlato, stalo se m ěsto Saskatoon, kde jsme te ď pobývali, zásobovacím st řediskem zlatokop ů.
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