Mouldings Complete profile range

Floors Ceilings Skirtings Door frames rails Log cladding 13

11

4

16 8 6 3 1 8 10 14

15 8 5

10 17

10 9 Visual Roadmap

Core building window & door architrave & skirting ceiling trim wall trim specialist Edging & Coverstrip 1 Window Cills 5 Architrave 8 Cornice/Scotia 13 Dado Rail 14 Handrails 16 Quad 3 Door Frame 6 Skirting 9 Ceiling Board Panel Board 15 Pickets 17 Planed All Round 4 Door Jam 6 Plinth Blocks 10 Strip Flooring Contents

Company Profile 3 Environmental Policy 3 Timber Range 4

Core Building 5 - 6

Planed All Round (PAR)

General Mouldings

T&G Flooring

Strip Flooring

Window Cills

Doorframes

Door jams

Architraves and Skirtings 7- 8

Plinth Blocks

Specialist 9

Handrails

Tilting Batten

Picket

Outdoor/Ceiling/Wall Trims 10

Deckboard

Log Cladding

Ceiling/Panel Boards

Dado Rails About us D&A Timbers has been manufacturing and trading in timber and value added timber products since 1902. Situated in the Industrial hub of Pinetown in KwaZulu-Natal, we have ready access to a wide range of timber resources.

We manufacture a comprehensive range of moulded timber products in various timber species such as South African , Saligna, Meranti, Balau, Paumarfin, Karri and Supawood. Custom made mouldings can be run on request Manufacturing to add a unique aspect to internal décor or to match existing finishes and we cut and value added timber materials to order. We would be happy to assist products since 1902. you with any queries, specifications or technical information.

Our manufacturing facilities are able to cater for high volumes of value added timber output, and with close proximity to major arterial routes, we are readily able to deliver to the major service centres around the country.

The Company enjoys associations and memberships of the following organizations: Institute for Timber Construction, The Master Builders Association and the South African Preservers Association, Timber Frame Building Association and SATAS.

Environmental Policy

We source all our raw material from highly reputable South African companies, as well as well respected international Timber Merchant Organizations. All local timber suppliers are members of the FSC, which regulates and oversees responsible forestry management in over 50 countries around the world (please see www.fsc.org)

3 How to use this Timber range brochure >> South African Pine predominant Pine species in South Africa is Pinus Patula. This 1 PAR 68x140 2 soft-wood species was introduced over 4 decades ago to cater mainly for the South 3 African Pulp and Paper Industry. It is now also the predominant species used in the manufacture of value added Pine products in 1 The letters correspond to the profile name code. This example is Planed All Round. South Africa.

2 This Number represents the profile SIZE. The first 2 or 3 numbers shows the WIDTH Meranti - any of several species of , eg 68 mm. The last 2 or 3 numbers shows the HEIGHT eg 140mm. the most important timber genus in tropical Asia, of the family Dipterocarpaceae. Meranti 3 = SA Pine = Meranti = Saligna = Balau is an important emergent tree of the tropical forests of Asia. The wood is light to medium weight, and widely used for light construction South African Pine and more importantly for veneers. Many other forest products are derived from meranti, including oils, resins known as dammar in the manufacture of , and fruits that are roasted or used as a substitute for cocoa butter and in cosmetics, soaps, and candles.

Meranti Saligna - the wood of this species is heavy (about 850 kg/m3), fairly hard, coarse, even textured and reasonably easy to work. It is used for general building construction, , and boat-building, and is highly prized for flooring and furniture because of its rich dark honey colour. Saligna

Balau - Yellow Balau is stocked as an exterior ‘decking’ profile. This is a Malaysian with natural durability and will gradually weather to a silver-grey colour. It machines well and has excellent overall Balau strength and weather resistance. It has little tendancy to warp or twist and has a life-span of up to 30 years. It is mainly used in outdoor furniture and decking, as well as flooring and general construction.

4 Core Building

PLANED ALL ROUND

PAR 68x68

PAR 68x102

PAR 68x140

PAR 68x220

PAR 44x44 PAR 44x68 PAR 44x102 PAR 44x140 PAR 44x220

PAR 32x32 PAR 32x44 PAR 32x68

PAR 32x102

PAR 32x140

PAR 32x220

PAR 20x20 PAR 21x32 PAR 21x44 PAR 21x68 PAR 21x102 PAR 21x140 PAR 21x220

5 = SA Pine, = Meranti, = Saligna, = Balau GENERAL MOULDINGS

QUADRANTS FLAT HALF CORNER FILLETS ROUND ROUND COVER STRIPS

QD 19 QD 16 QD 32 CF 25x25x35 CF 19x19x27 FR 32 HR 19 CS 08x44 CS 08x32

FL 20x140 FL 20x102 FL 21x68 SFL 21x90 BNC 21x95 BNC 21x140

DOORFRAMES & DOOR JAMS

DJ 44x140 DF 46x85 DF 44x60 DF 60x60

DJ 44x120 DF 32x68 DF 55x83 DF 66x90 6 Architraves & Skirting Profiles

OG RANGE

OG 21x140 OG 21x95 OG 21x68 OG 15x140 OG 15x95 OG 15x68

OLD ENGLISH RANGE CLASSIC RANGE

OE 21x140 OE 21x95 OE 21x68 CL 21x140 CL 21x95A CL 21x95B

ZIMBALI RANGE RANGE

ZM 21x140 ZM 21x95 ZM 21x68 BM 21x140 BM 21x95 BM 21x68

7 = SA Pine, = Meranti, = Saligna, = Balau BALI RANGE CAPE RANGE

BA 21x140 BA 21x95 BA 21x68 CA 21x140 CA 21x95 CA 21x68

ARRIS RANGE BRETTENWOOD RANGE

AR 13x68 AR 21x68 AR 13x44 BR 21x140 BR 21x95 BR 21x68

PLINTH BLOCKS RANGE

PB 80x125 PB 80x80 PB 110x150 PB 110x110

NB this range is not to scale

8 Specialist

HANDRAILS

Zimbali 1 Zimbali 2 Zimbali 3 Zimbali 4 Zimbali 5

Halfround Standard 68x68 Dado 44x68 Standard 44x68

MOPSTICK TILTING BATTEN

MP 50 MP 44 MP 32 TB 36x65

PICKET

PKT 32x32

9 = SA Pine, = Meranti, = Saligna, = Balau Outdoor/Ceiling/Wall Trims

REEDED DECK BOARD CEILING TRIM

COVED CORNICE SCOTIA

RDK32x102 RDK21x140 RDK21x90 RDK21x68 CC 16x68 SC 32 SC 16

LOG CLADDING T&G CEILING & PANEL BOARDS

LC 44x140 LC 32x90 TG 32x90 LC21x90 CP 12x102 V CP 12x90 V CP 12x63 V

DECK BOARD

DK 32x102 DK 32x68 DK 21x68 DK 21x90

DADO RAILS

BALMORAL OLD D & A D & A FIONA EDWARD

10 11 Tools Required

• Pencil • Tape Measure • Level • G • Safety glasses

• Hammer • Nails & Nail Punch • • • Wood Filler • Fine tooth back or

Removing Old Mouldings Most often the old moulding has been nailed on. To remove, find a gap between the moulding and wall and gently pry open using, for example a screwdriver or the claw end of a hammer*. Work from one end to the other, loosening the nails until the old moulding can be removed. * It is advisable to protect the door jamb from accidental damage by using a piece of cor- rugated cardboard or cloth. measuring moulding requirements First you need to determine where the moulding will be used and then estimate the quantity and type. Go around C D F G the room, making a list of the specific lengths you need. E When all the measurements are totalled, add 10 percent Moulding Lengths Length Options H to that number for cutting and waste. Divide your total by A = 6m 25.3m/2.4m = 11 lengths the length of moulding you’re B = 5m 25.3m/3m = 9 lengths B C = 2.4m 25.3m/3.6m = 7 lengths using to determine the number of lengths needed. D = 1m Length options have E = 1.2m been rounded up F = 1m acclimatising your mouldings G = 2.4m It is advisable that you “acclimatise” your mouldings prior H = 2m I I = 2m to installation. Once you bring your mouldings home plus 10% = 25.3m A acclimatise them at room temperature for 24 hours prior to installation.

12 Working with mouldings how to install a moulding How to splice a moulding 1. Measure the distance between two inside This is a neat method to join two lengths of straight corners and cut a piece of moulding to fit moulding. Position the moulding with the visible between the corners. face edge uppermost in the mitre box with the 2. Start by cutting your moulding pieces a little back of the moulding against the back wall of the long,you can always trim a little off, but once mitre box. This ensures the saw cut on the visible a piece is too short it can’t be fixed. face is clean and that any break-out will appear on 3. Pre holes for nails to avoid splitting the the non visible face of the moulding. moulding. 4. Locate and lightly mark the wall studs. Mitre the joining ends at 45°. The two pieces 5. Install the moulding piece by piece, working overlap making a diagonal joint. your way around the room, leaving the nail heads exposed to allow for any repositioning. For a stronger join, position spliced moulding ends 6. You may need someone to help hold long in front of a stud so that the joining pieces can be pieces while you drill and nail. nailed into the stud. 7. Nail to the curved or cove part of the moulding to better hide the nail holes. 8. After all the moulding is up, touch up any raw edges with a light coat of finish. Use wood putty or a filler stick to hide nail holes. how to mitre a moulding Most moulding mitre joints are at a 90° angle and consist of 2 pieces of moulding cut at opposing 45° angles. When fitted together they should form a tight right angle. One common place you may use basic mitre cuts are the inside and outside corners of the room. Whilst typically 45° angles, many installations require minor adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. If you have an adjustable mitre saw, you might try adjusting the cutting angle slightly on one of the pieces to achieve a tighter fit.

Keep a sample piece of the moulding handy for test fitting. Be sure to press the moulding tightly against the wall when test fitting to simulate how the moulding may fit when nailed.

When measuring the length of your cuts, determine the actual length of the finished cut, making allowances for the angled portion left by the mitre cut.

13 how to install a moulding how to apply filler To fill nail holes, repair scratches and dents, simply sand the affected area lightly with a fine or extra fine sandpaper using a sanding block. Always use a non-shrinking filler. Follow the manufacturer’s directions to achieve best results. For stainable mouldings use a filler that closely matches the wood colour. Once holes have been filled and allowed to dry, lightly sand these areas to remove any rough spots. how to sand mouldings Use a fine grit sanding sponge or at least a 220-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Always sand with the grain of the timber. Coarser grits of sandpaper, or going across or against the grain will tend to leave fine gouges that may be visible through subsequent coats of . A very light pass over the nail area will suffice. If painting touch sanding with a fine grit (220 or higher) sandpaper between each coat is strongly recommended. This light sanding will ensure better bond between the coats, and also give a smoother final finish. when to apply paint or stain Staining or painting the moulding before it is installed is recommended. You’ll save time because you can apply the finish faster. Find a dry, well- ventilated and dust-free area to apply the finish to your moulding. Ensure all areas that have filler are dry and sanded before applying any paint.

If you install the moulding and then finish it, protect the area around the moulding by masking it off with tape. Carefully remove the tape immediately after finishing to prevent its drying to the finish.

Mouldings with a pronounced wood grain are better suited to stain or to enhance the naturally occurring grain.Mouldings such as pine can be stained to virtually any tint. It is recommended that finger jointed products are primed and then painted with a high quality paint. 14 Telephone: +27 (0)31 713 7500 | Email: [email protected] Address: Cnr. Henwood & Shepstone Road, Pinetown