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Prosumers and Lurkers on Visual Social Media Marina Leban Luxury consumption practices in the digital age : prosumers and lurkers on visual social media Marina Leban To cite this version: Marina Leban. Luxury consumption practices in the digital age : prosumers and lurkers on visual social media. Sociology. Université Panthéon-Sorbonne - Paris I, 2020. English. NNT : 2020PA01E044. tel-03332408 HAL Id: tel-03332408 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-03332408 Submitted on 2 Sep 2021 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 Luxury Consumption Practices in the Digital Age: Prosumers and Lurkers on Visual Social Media Pratiques de consommation du luxe à l'ère du numérique: Prosommateurs et lurkers sur les réseaux sociaux visuels Thèse de Doctorat présentée en vue de l’obtention du grade de docteur en sciences de gestion par « Marina LEBAN» dirigée par Benjamin G. VOYER, Professeur, ESCP Business School Soutenance le 8 juillet 2020 Devant un jury composé de : Rapporteurs : Mme Delphine DION Professeur, ESSEC Business School Mme Margherita PAGANI Professeur, EMLyon Business School Suffragants : M. Yuri SEO Professeur Associé, The University of Auckland M. Luca M. VISCONTI Professeur, Università della Svizzera Italiana ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 L’Université n’entend donner aucune approbation ou improbation aux opinions émises dans les thèses. Ces opinions doivent être considérées comme propres à leurs auteurs. 4 ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 5 ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 Acknowledgements With my PhD is coming to an end, I can now finally sit down and reflect on my whole academic journey. Fun fact: I initially wanted to become a psychologist, and that is why I decided to do a Bachelors, and later on, a Masters in Psychology. However, once I set foot at the London School of Economics, my entire future career prospects changed. Never had I been in an academic environment that pushed me to my limits in terms of building my critical thinking, working long and hard hours, as well as making me become a real, trained social scientist. I immediately fell in love with research, and felt an urge to become an academic. There, I met incredible scholars that have shaped my way of thinking; most notably I would like to thank Dr. Lucia Garcia-Lorenzo for challenging me to go above and beyond my comfort zone in my studies. I am also eternally grateful for having met Dr. Frederic Basso who not only introduced me to the field of consumer psychology and consumer research – and sold me on the idea that Burning Man was the best festival in the world – but who also opened my eyes on the hardships, as well as the best parts of academic life. I would also like to thank my dear LSE friends that have watched me flourish as a researcher during and after I graduated in 2014: Anna, we have grown together academically, even if geographically apart. I am thrilled to continue seeing you brace through academia and life in general. Bjørg, you have always been an inspiration to me in terms of how to manage a successful career and at the same time have a wonderful family, thank you for that. Lola, thank you for following and supporting me, celebrating (at a distance) our milestones; thank you for being such a joy to be with. Miro, look how far we have grown up! I look back at our time at the LSE with great happiness and nostalgia: hours spent in those quirky looking cubicles at the research lab, working on assignments, continuously giving each other feedback, trying to improve each other’s work. The library was our second home, but being with you there made it all worth it. The giggles, the banter, your support and straightforwardness are priceless. Although we went from being inseparable at the LSE, to living together, to occasionally seeing each other afterwards, to keeping in touch remotely now, I know I could – and still can – count on you. You have been such a devoted friend and I am eternally grateful for that. LSE is also where I met my long-time supervisor: Prof. Ben Voyer. I first met you at the Cumberland Lodge department retreat seven years ago. How time flies! You have supported me first during my Masters through being my supervisor, helping me disseminate my research by going to conferences, following my two-year academic break where I worked in marketing research agencies. You have always kept the door open for me to join back academia when I was ready. Thank you for all your feedback and encouragement throughout this whole journey. 6 ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 I am very grateful for having Christine Rocque help me in all the tedious but necessary admin tasks during the PhD, and to Prof. Claire Dambrin as well Prof. Hervé Laroche for provide us PhD candidates with resources to successfully conduct and finish a thesis. I would also like to thank the ESCP Business School Fondation for fully funding me for three years – I would not have been able to stay in academia without the financial support. Some other mentions from the ESCP Business School Paris campus: Prof. Julien Schmitt, for entrusting me to teach the Masters Marketing summer course and Prof. Vanessa Strauss-Kahn, for letting me teach Marketing in the Bachelor Program. In the London campus I would like to say a word of thank you to Dr. Wioletta Nawrot and Dr. Panagiotis Dontis Charitos for your kindness and willingness to give me large amounts of teaching and well as marking hours, to Dr. Jeremy Lemoine for being such a great colleague to work with, and my main source of laughter after long and onerous hours of teaching. One of the main highlights on my time as a PhD Candidate is when I got to participate at the 2017 Oxford Internet Institute Summer Doctoral Program. It was a rewarding and challenging two weeks, where I met amazing PhDs from around the globe: Alice Brown, Amalia Alvarez Benjumea, Baobao Zhang, Elaine Sedenberg, Emma Slager, Evie Psarras, Ido Sivan-Sevilla, Ido Kilovaty, Irina Anastasiu, Jacqueline de Souza Abreu, Karine e Silva, Kate Miltner, Maria Zalewska, Maria Zuffova, Marina Leban, Matthias Plennert, Molly Sauter, Nasreen Rajani, Nathalie Maréchal, Nicholas Robinson, Niko Hatakka, Rachel Hews, Reham Al Ramime, Saifuddin Ahmed, Shyam Krishna, Raja Gopalan, Sophie Bishop, Tom Sear, Michelle Liu, Yao Sun, Avyva Xu, Pingo Zablon, Zahra Stardust. Most notably, I would like to send a big shout out to the infamous ‘Duck Animals’ group: Dr. Amalia (I’m Alia), Dr. Matthias, Dr. Niko, Nick, and Shyam. Thank you for those long, crazy evenings of pub crawling, drinking lots and lots of IPAs, board gaming, karaoke singing, yoging in one of the most iconic Oxford college courtyards. It is truly incredible how in just two weeks, scholars that have never seen or heard of each other can get so close. I will forever cherish our friendship, and look forward to seeing all of you again. Thanks to Prof. Ben Voyer I was also able to do a one-year visiting at the Copenhagen Business School, where I was first introduced to Sylvia von Wallpach whom I would like to thank for agreeing to start a project on luxury at CBS. I was later introduced to Thyra Uth Thomsen, who has helped me develop my academic skills, and who has contributed greatly in the luxury project. I am looking forward to collaborating with you again in the near future. I would also like to thank Nethal and Ana. We were all visiting PhDs at CBS, and knowing you made it easier to spend countless hours working, but also conversing on matters other than scholarly works. Staying at CBS for a whole year was an experience 7 ECOLE DOCTORALE DE MANAGEMENT PANTHÉON-SORBONNE n°559 that confirmed me that I really wanted to pursue an academic career and to be part of an engaging community of scholars. A special thanks goes to my PhD jury members. Thank you to Prof. Delphine Dion and Prof. Prof. Margherita Pagani for agreeing to review my thesis and for giving me such valuable feedback and advice. Thank you to Dr. Yuri Seo for mentoring me throughout my PhD. You have taught me so much on how academia works, as well as how to frame papers. Thank you Prof. Luca Visconti, for pinpointing me to the right papers when I asked for your help years ago, and for agreeing to be part of my final jury. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to my ESCP PhD cohort: Marion, for being my conference travel partner, Alissa, for supporting each other through the good and the bad, and for all those long talks about our future sipping black tea. I am also grateful to have met Anna, Salima, Liliane, Hadrien, Louis, and Romain. I still cannot believe that I managed to complete my doctoral degree despite the fact that I have countlessly travelled back and forth to Paris, London, Copenhagen, that I moved to another country in the middle of my second year, that I got married to my wonderful long-time life companion, Tóri, and gave birth to our beautiful daughter, Ingrid, at the end of my third year.
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