John Wesley Powell Soldier Explorer Scientist

U. S. Department of the Interior/Geological Survey John Wesley Powell Soldier Explorer Scientist by Mary C. Rabbitt In 1869, John Wesley Powell last unknown part of the continen- times to put his beliefs into development of the region. He had and nine adventure-seeking com- tal and brought to practice. a keen and sympathetic interest panions completed the first ex- a climax the era of Powell's exploration of the Colo- in the Indians who inhabited this ploration of the dangerous and al- exploration. rado River led to the formulation western land and made funda- most uncharted canyons of the Powell was not an adventurer, of some of the fundamental prin- mental contributions to the new Green and Colorado Rivers. By nor did he consider himself just ciples of land sculpture. He went sciences of and eth- this trip, Powell, a 35-year-old pro- an explorer. He was a scientist, on to develop an understanding nology. His talent for organization fessor of natural history, apparently motivated by a thirst for knowledge of the natural conditions that con- has left its mark on agencies and unhampered by the lack of his and a firm belief that science was trol man and society in the arid programs for the development and right forearm (amputated after the meant to further the progress of lands of the Western States and to conservation of the natural re- ), opened up the mankind. He endeavored at all develop guidelines for the orderly sources of the world.

John Wesley Powell . . . was one of the few who believed in evolution by endeavor and who fought for intelligent and scientific planning for the development of society. He believed that progress comes by in- M creasing cooperation among men, and he dreamed of developing a science that would provide the know/edge whereby men could live together in peace and mutual coopera- tion. William T. Pecora, Former Director U. S. Geological Survey August 1969

2 3 John Wesley Powell was born hand, and Powell's interest in exploring the Midwest. At various On May 8, 1861, he enlisted at in 1834 in Mount Morris N.Y., the natural history grew during their times he attended , Hennepin, Ill., as a private in the son of Joseph Powell, a Methodist numerous junkets to collect speci- Illinois Institute, and Oberlin Col- 20th Illinois Infantry. He was de- minister who had emigrated from mens of plants, animals, birds, and lege. In 1858, he joined the newly scribed as age 27, height 5' 61/2" 4 years earlier. A restless minerals. formed Illinois State Natural History tall, light complected, gray eyes, man, Joseph Powell gradually When Powell was 12 years old Society, and as curator of conchol- auburn hair, occupationteacher." moved his family west across New the family moved to a farm in ogy, made a fairly complete col- He was elected sergeant-major York State and in 1838 settled in . With his father away lection of the mollusks of Illinois. of the regiment, and when the Jackson, Ohio. There the Powells much of the time, the boy assumed He began teaching at Hennepin, 20th Illinois was mustered into the became embroiled in one of the management of the farm, an ex- Ill., in 1858 and in 1860 became Federal service a month later, most controversial issues of the perience that helped develop physi- superintendent of its schools. Powell was commissioned a second dayabolition. Reverend Powell's cal stamina and moral character. While on a lecture tour in the lieutenant. The regiment was sent vigorous stand against slavery was Though he attended school ir- summer of 1860, Powell realized to Camp Girardeau near St. Louis. met with hostility by many of the regularly, he was determined to that a civil war was inevitable. That Because of his knowledge of en- townspeople. Because his class- pursue his studies in science over I winter, he studied military science gineering, Powell was directed to mates frequently taunted him, the objections of his father who and engineering. A strong aboli- prepare and carry out a plan for young Powell was removed from wished him to become a minister. tionist, John Wesley Powell was the fortification of the camp and public school and was placed un- When he was 18, Powell began one of the first to volunteer when der the tutelage of a neighbor, teaching in a one-room country President Lincoln issued a call for George Crookham, a farmer and school to earn money for college. troops. self-taught scientist. Crookham The next 7 years were spent teach- emphasized learning nature first- ing school, attending college, and

A typical farm of the 1800's similar to that on which John Wesley Powell was born.

Emma Dean Powell (nee Harriet Emma Dean), wife of Major John Wesley Powell.

4 5 The Battle of Shiloh. A drawing from the Matthew Brady collection. few months. On General Grant's town. In November, General Grant orders, Mrs. Powell was given a authorized him to recruit and train pass to be with her husband wher- a company to manage the siege ever he went, thus enabling him guns. to remain in the service where his That same month Grant allowed engineering and artillery knowl- Powell a short leave for a hurried edge was sorely needed. During trip to Detroit to marry his cousin, May and June 1863, Captain Emma Dean, who accompanied Powell's battery participated in him back to camp after the the , and while ceremony. in the trenches he examined the Powell was made captain of rocks and made a collection of Battery F, 2d Illinois Artillery Volun- fossil shells that was later de- teers at the end of the year. A few posited in the Illinois State Mu- weeks later, he and his battery seum. In late 1863, Powell was were ordered to Pittsburg Land- made an inspector of artillery for ing on the Tennessee River. Dur- the Department of the Army of ing the Battle of Shiloh, on April 6, Tennessee. He served as com- as Powell gave the signal to fire, manding officer of the 17th Army a Minie ball struck his wrist and Corps Artillery Brigade and took plowed into his arm. The wound part in several operations after was so severe that his arm had to the fall of Atlanta, including the be amputated below the elbow. . Despite his injury, Powell re- By January 1865, Powell had turned to active service within a risen to the rank of brevet lieu-

6 "Our Works before VicksburgBattery Powell." It is likely that John Wesley Powell is shown erroneously in this illustration. Although Powell had lost his arm in the Battle of Shiloh (April 6-7, 1862), he is shown uninjured at the Siege of Vicksburg (May-July 1863).

tenant colonel (although he pre- ferred to be called major). With the end of the war at hand and his term of enlistment having expired, Powell asked to be mustered out of service, Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, who was later with Powell on his second Major John Wesley Powell in uniform, expedition down the Colorado about 1863. River, wrote: As a soldier his career was on the abandoned plantations. marked by a thorough study All this time, whenever pos- and mastery not only of the sible, he continued his studies details of military life; but of in natural science. He made military science. Especially a collection of fossils un- was he apt in utilizing mate- earthed in the trenches around rials at hand to accomplish Vicksburg, land and river his endsa trait that was a/so shells from the Mississippi prominent in his civil life. swamps, and a large collec- Bridges he built from cotton tion of mosses while on de- gin houses, mantelets for his tached duty in Illinois. He also guns from gunny sacks and familiarized himself with the old rope, and shields for his geology of regions through sharpshooters from the mold- which armies passed to which boards of old plows found he was attached. 7 After the war, Powell accepted Powell loved to travel; it had a professorship in geology at been one of his main interests Illinois Wesleyan University in before the war. In 1867, he led a Bloomington. His method of teach- party of students to the Rocky ing reflected his training under Mountains to collect specimens George Crookham, and he often for the museum. Funds for the trip took his students into the field to came from various sources, in- collect fossils, minerals, and plants cluding the Museum of Natural and to observe animals in their History$500, the Illinois Indus- natural habitat. The following trial University (later the University year he gave a course of lectures of Illinois)$500, and the Chicago at Illinois State University in nearby Academy of Science$100. In Normal, Ill. The State Legislature return he agreed to supply them provided a small endowment for with specimens of the animals, the museum of the State Natural plants, and any other materials History Society, and Powell was collected. Scientific instruments named curator. were loaned by the Smithsonian

A scene of Powell's teaching career. Illinois Wesleyan's first building, 1856.

8 rations for the group from Army posts at Government rates and to obtain free transportation from the railroads. Powell contributed his own salary to help finance the trip. In May and June of 1867, the ex- pedition, which included Mrs. Powell, traveled by train, wagon, and horseback across the plains to Denver and on to a valley known as Bergens Park on the west side of the Rampart Range north of Pikes Peak. After climbing Pikes John Wesley Powell, winter 1869. Peak they traveled west to South Park where they camped for sev- Institution, and Powell agreed to eral weeks, exploring the moun- give the Institution the topographic tains and hot springs and making measurements made by his party. a variety of natural history He made arrangements to procure collections.

Student members of Powell's 1868 expedition.

9 Most of the group returned east in September, but the Powells and a few others remained to ex- plore Middle Park and the head- waters of the Grand River, as the upper part of the was then called. In the summer of 1868, Powell returned to Colorado with his wife and about 20 others, mainly neigh- bors and students. They collected more specimens for the museum, explored the Colorado mountains, and climbed 14,000-foot-high .

Navajo boy.

Tau-gu, a chief of the Psiute Indian tribe, and Major Powell in southern .

Ruins of an ancient Indian settlement on the rim of the .

10 In October, the party reached a of its lonely and majestic way, point on the White River about shall be forever unvisited and 120 miles above its mouth where undisturbed." But after studying they built cabins and established the few reports, talking with In- winter quarters. During the winter dians, hunters, and mountain men of 1868-69, Powell traveled south familiar with the area, and ex- to the Grand River, down the ploring tributary streams similar White and Green Rivers, north to to the Colorado, Powell decided the Yampa River, and around the it was possible to explore the river Uinta Mountains. He befriended a by descending it in small boats. tribe of Ute Indians and studied He obtained some funds from their language and customs. His private sources and from the Illi- interest in the Indians of the West nois State Natural History Society, grew, and in 1873, as a special and he gained permission from commissioner to the Indians in the Government to requisition mili- Utah and eastern Nevada, he tary stores. He had four boats pleaded for greater justice and built in Chicago to his own de- more educational opportunities sign and specifications and had for the Indians. them shipped to the proposed By 1868, Powell was considering starting point at Green River exploration of the Colorado River, Station, Wyoming Territory. He undeterred by legends of earlier selected a crew of nine who, with expeditions that had perished. the exception of his brother Walter, Lieutenant Joseph C. Ives, who were mountain men experienced in 1857 explored the southern in living off the land. On May 24, stretches of the river below the 1869, Powell launched his boats Grand Canyon, believed "that the on their historic journey. Colorado, along the greater part Major Powell talking to a Paiute Indian during northern survey.

11 Running the Rapids First Campsite, 2d Expedition

Powell and Colleagues, C. 0. Walcott (left) and Sir (right) The Rescue

è 4!''A Powell's Farewell Dinner as Director of the U.S. Geological Survey LLNC

War Memorial at Vicksburg, Mississippi

At Riordan Ranch, Arizona.

Indian Tribal Conference John Wesley Powell's Pioneer River Voyage-1869

1 Green River (Wyo.) Flan,ing Gorge Lodore Canyon Split Mountain Canyon Ouray Gray Canyon Green River (Utah) Labyrinth Canyon Catacract Canyon 11 Hite CroSSing ot the Fathers Lees Ferry 16, Bright Angel 17 Kaibab Plateau 18. Grand Canyon 1 9. Separation Canyon 20. St. George

Re)ief map of PoweU's pioneer river voyage-1869.

The party traveled more than overland, departed only 2 days 1,000 miles of river through wind- before the voyage ended. Powell ing canyons and over foaming and five men in two boats e- rapids. One of the crew left the merged months later on August expedition after a month, having 30 at the mouth of the , had enough adventure; three Ariz., long after hope for their others, hoping to find a safer route survival had been abandoned. 14 Their emotional ordeal was well Having succeeded so dramati- expressed in Powell's words cally in conquering the Green and "What falls there are, we know Colorado Rivers, Powell had little not; what rocks beset the channel, difficulty in obtaining funds from we know not; what walls rise over Congress to continue his explora- the river, we know not." tory work. He decided that sup- Powell immediately set about plies should be cached along the making plans for a second expedi- river and spent most of the year tion. He had planned and supplied 1870 in determining potential sup- the first trip for what he thought ply routes and in establishing would be a leisurely 6- to 9-month friendly relationships with the scientific expedition. Because of Indians. the loss of food and equipment By the spring of 1871, prepara- and the scarcity of game, the trip tions had been completed for the had been hurried. Powell's obser- second survey of the canyon vations and notes on topography country. This time the party in- and geology were incomplete or cluded Professor Almon H. Thomp- unreliable because of badly dam- son, a surveyor and Powell's aged instruments. The few speci- brother-in-law, and an experienced mens collected had been cached photographer, E. 0. Beaman, who along the river. together with his successors James Fennemore and J. K. Hillers, dra- matically documented the river A plaque marking the place where the Howland brothers and William H. Dunn voyage. Separated from the 1869 Powell expedition. On May 22, the party pushed The plaque is located near the northeast three boats of improved design bank of the Colorado River on the eastern side of Separation Canyon. into the stream. Major Powell rode in the lead, perched in a chair lashed amidships where he com-

\Ji 1lH manded an unrestricted view of the way ahead and could signal to the other boats. The expedition was planned to last about a year btiW1j 41/2 AND and a half. During the first .tLLk t4. tMNW LlMLETEL' lll41tNI_ months the expedition traveled LELL. rMLr. Lttt!L't from Green River Station to the T141i kNL' jjj LILUZi' t't TI4tj-tNL'LINb. mouth of the Paria River at the tML- .JYfltNTl foot of Glen Canyon. Thompson Iii L.M,,jUyo LU\tL . was largely responsible for con- btk1NkbLIz- L?t.. .!NI\'litkbtr LWLUtIUIi$. ducting the exploration of the 1A1'(4 .%'J river. Powell spent most of July AND DU1AT1rt, tW t44 Lk1t1 LLLL and August traveling on horseback between the river and Salt Lake I City, exploring the canyon lands, and studying the Indian tribes.

15 The Powell expedition ready to start from a location just below the Union Pacific Railway bridge at Green River Station Wyoming.

During the winter and spring The second expedition brought (1871-72) while Powell was in the back considerable information. East seeking new appropriations, Professor Thompson completed a Thompson set about mapping the topographic map of the Grand area. In the spring, while seeking Canyon region, and Powell's monu- another route by which supplies mental account was published in could be brought to the river, 1875 by the Smithsonian Institu- the party discovered the last un- tion. Hundreds of photographs known river in the United States were taken, many of them stereo- and named it the Escalante. scopic views that brought the In August 1872, the expedition western canyons into eastern once more started downriver from living rooms. Diaries and field Lee's Ferry. Because of torrential notes were kept by several other rains and heavy snowmelt in the members of the party. Dellen- mountains, the river was high, baugh's story of the trip A Canyon swift, and dangerous. Finding that Voyage was published in 1908, controlling the boats was nearly and the Utah Historical Society impossible in the rushing current, published the diary of Thompson Powell called a halt to the expedi- in 1939 and those of Bishop, tion when the party reached Kanab Steward, W. C. Powell, and Jones Canyon. in 1947. 16 On the Colorado at the mouth Kanab Canyon, near its mouth. The cliffs in the distance are on the far side of the of the Little Colorado River. Colorado River.

Major Powell's boat, the Emma Dean, moored on a bank of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon.

Powell continued to study the of the Interior Carl Schurz, he Colorado River region under Gov- completed his Report on the lands ernment auspices. He became im- of the arid region of the United pressed with the problem of set- States, which was published as a tling the arid western lands and Congressional document. The in 1878, encouraged by Secretary book was not only a report on

17 the physical characteristics of the on Powell and others for sugges- land and the rainfall but also dis- tions. Legislation embodying the cussed the need for a land classi- academy plan that contained many fication sysem and contained of Powell's ideas was introduced, drafts of proposed legislation but before it was finally enacted providing for the organization of several provisions were eliminated, irrigation and pastu rage districts. including one of special interest The book, since recognized as to Powella proposal to change one of the most important ever the public land system. The bill written about the western lands, that was passed on March 3, 1879, went unheeded at the time. provided for the establishment Four surveysthe Powell, of the U.S. Geological Survey, dis- Hayden, King, and Wheeler sur- continuation of the western sur- veyswere mapping the West, veys, and appointment of a com- and some conflicts of interest be- mission to codify the public land gan to develop, especially between laws. Powell became a member of Army and civilian scientists. the commission, and Clarence In the spring of 1878, Congress King, who had been in charge of investigated the rivalry among the the Geologic Exploration of the western surveys but was unable 40th Parallel, the first of the na- to come to a satisfactory conclu- tional surveys authorized by Con- sion. They called on the National gress, became the first Director of Academy of Sciences for advice, the U.S. Geological Survey. and the academy in turn called

Members of the Hayden survey packing a Campsite of Lieutenant G. M. Wheeler and wagon on mules across the San Juan survey party near Belmont, Nevada (Wheeler Mountains. seventh from left).

18 The bill that included the or- ganic act of the Geological Survey also contained an appropriation for completing and publishing the results of Powell's research on the Indians and their cultures. This work ultimately led to the creation of the Bureau of Ethnology, which devoted its efforts to collecting information on the fast-disappear- ing Indian tribes of North America. Powell became its Director, a post he held for the rest of his life. In 1881, following King's resig- nation, Major Powell was appointed Director of the U.S. Geological Survey. As Director from 1881 to 1894, Powell was the principal force in expanding geologic studies , first Director of the and topographic mapping through- U.S. Geological Survey, 1879-81. out the country and in stimulat- ing investigations of soil, ground water, rivers, flood control, and John Wesley Powell, second Director irrigation. of the U.S. Geological Survey, 1881-94.

Acceptance of directorship of the U.S. Geological Survey.

19 During the 13 years of Powell's be well conducted, and they recog- directorate the growth of the nized the wisdom of a geological Geological Survey was remarkable. survey of the whole country. Geo- Its field of operations, at first re- logic research was established stricted to the Far West, became as a proper function of the nationwide. The annual appropria- Govern ment. tion was gradually increased, and In 1888, following a series of dry from time to time new functions years, Congress, on Powell's rec- were added, the most important ommendation, authorized the Sur- being a program of topographic vey to undertake a study of the mapping and investigation of arid regions of the United States water resources and irrigation. with special emphasis to be placed New divisions of chemistry, phys- on investigations of stream capac- ics, paleontology, and hydrography ities and potential sites for dams, wer also added. reservoirs, ditches, and other ir- In 1884, Congress set up a joint rigation facilities. commission to consider the organ- ization of several of the scientific bureaus, including the Geological Survey, in order to "secure greater efficiency and economy." The Na- tional Academy of Sciences was again called on for advice, and its committee made some specific recommendations. Their chief goals were the formulation of a general plan for science in gov- ernment and the establishment of a Department of Science. In the lengthy hearings that followed, Major Powell was called several times to testify, not only on the operation and management of the Geological Survey, but also on his views of the place of science in government. Midway in the hearings there was a change of administration, and the search for efficiency and economy became an investigtaion of corruption. Powell and the Sur- vey became the target of bitter attack. In the end, however, the Commission found the adminis- John Wesley Powell in his Adams Building tration of the Geological Survey to office, Washington, D.C.

20 The House added an amendment He was buried in Arlington Ceme- requiring that all irrigable lands tery among other heroes of the be withdrawn from entry. This ef- Civil War. fectively closed the land to the Though honored and respected homesteader. After about 2 years by the scientific community, Powell the Irrigation Survey was discon- was for many years overlooked by continued, and Congress elimi- historians. Only recently has the

nated the power to reserve irriga- significance of his ideas been re-- ble land. Powell's vision of an discovered. orderly settlement of the West Powell, however, was not with- was not to become a reality. Ulti- out recognition in his own time. mately, the Irrigation Survey led He was elected a member of the to the establishment of the Rec- Philosophical Society of Washing- lamation Service and then the ton in 1874 and its president in Bureau of Reclamation. 1883 and a member of the National Academy of Sciences in 1880. He was a founder of the and ' SIIQV! uSES ifS If[N1 . J. W. Pow.li R*eigt.. Hi. its president during 1878 Placs a Dfr.ctor. and 1888, a founder and president of the Anthro- pological Society of finn .o,prl.. .1111.. Mt I, th,.ok.. Washington, one of the US., Il4.?.oy .54 .M.l ciloTn .4 0015. .340. £1.1 otlll lilt,, by ISO 011b. ,..Igl.li000t WoJ. 4. 0. Pdw.it, d,.,.w, .1 15. U.S.a Bat.. O.oiooio.i S,,,,y. Aotloo 5.5.0 by N.J. Po..iI to lb. 801. OMIOL1,. Ml,, to 15. P,.,a. d.ol, Il....nItlod lh,00gb lb. S.cnt.ry Resignation of directorship or Ito 101.0101. llnp.on ml 0.4,15 15. 915 loMsot by Ash.,1 5.11.0k, *5... tIlts lottolos Dq..oM0.tl. t - of the U.S. Geological "SiR. By 411,0110. or She I'rniJ,,t. I Survey. B.., lbS Solo., 00 .4,1., ystI lb., you, .aLc..H., of lb. 0010. .1 dI,ocw,or 1.e U*ologlo.i Stoy, tlod,nd hI 7040 St. lof lb. 055 1011*01. SoloS. ,8e.t Cr0. s.d .iOos IS. 05thotJ,.,n.l.b*. S_S TI. I'oId..l Sod lb. 510,01*150C lb. -. .35, 0t35*.

3.5.0,0... 950)7 I...

Major Powell and companions off the coast of Maine during retire- ment years. I 015. 001*4001? 00 SIMS? *7 115i1517011 U 010.110? O0 SOS 01.1 1l] 51,5.. W,Sogtn1 tefl.?, II 0.0. .11500

On June 30, 1894, Powell resigned 1151*7.11.] II 1015 to 5151*1 O PSI .400,01. lu-S..] 101*01,104. as Director of the U.S. Geological 1,000.., p?.IO..PS.?*0417545115 III 0*55 0*7555* Survey. He had been in poor health for a number of years, and sur- gery was once more required on his arm. Major Powells health de- clined steadily after his resigna- fl.?151b 75* lS4l*bJ5, tion, and he died at his summer home in Haven, Maine, on Sep- tember 23, 1902, in his 69th year.

21 earliest members of the Biological fertile in his ideas, he was Selected References Society of Washington, and an absolutely free in their com- organizer of the Geological Society munication with the result that John Wesley Powell of Washington. He helped estab- many of his suggestionsa Darrah, W. C. Powell of the Colorado. Princeton University Press, 1951. lish the National Geographic number which can never be Dellenbaugh, F. S. A Canyon Voyage. Yale University Press, 1962. Society and the Geological So- knownwere unconsciously Goetzmann, W. H. Exploration and Empire. Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1966. ciety of America. In 1888, he was appropriated by his associates Place, M. T. John Wesley Powell, Geologist and Conservationist. Houghton- elected president of the American and incorporated in their pub- Mifflin, 1963. Powell, J. W. The Exploration of the Colorado and its Canyons. Dover Association for the Advancement lished results . . . The sci- of Science, then considered the entific produce which he di- Publications, 1961. highest honor for an American rectly and in directly inspired Smith, F. E. The Politics of Conservation. Pantheon Books, 1966. scientist, and he received honorary Stegner, W. E. Beyond the 100th Meridian. Houghton-Mifflin, 1960. may equal, or even exceed Ullman, J. R. Down the Colorado with Major Powell. Houghton-Mitflin, 1960. degrees from several universities that which stands in his own U. S. Geological Survey. John Wesley Powell's Exploration of the Colorado at home and abroad. name. River. U.S. Government Printing Office, 1974. His place among his contempo- White, D. (pseud.) John Wesley Powell, Conqueror of the Canyon. Houghton- raries was fittingly expressed by Mifflin, 1960. G. K. Gilbert, the eminent geologist and his long-time associate, at a This publication is one of a series of gene,al interest publications meeting commemorating Powell's prepared by the U.S. Geological Survey to provide information about achievements. Speaking of Powell the earth sciences, natural resources, and the envi,onmenf. To obtain a catalog of additional titles in the series Popular Publications of before the Washington Academy the U S Geological Survey, write. of Sciences on February 16, 1903, Branch of Distribution or Branch of Distribution Gilbert said: U.S. Geological Survey U.S. Geological Survey 1200 South Eads Street Box 25286. Federal center The glow of his enthusiasm, ArlingtOO, VA 22202 Denver. CO 80225 the illumination of his broad philosophy, the warmth of his friendship, are still with us It was through this per- sonality too that he accom- plished much of his work for science. Gathering about him the ablest men he could secure, he was yet always the intellectual leader, and few of his colleagues could withstand the influence of his master mind. Phenomenally

Monument erected about 1914 to honor John Wesley Powell. Arlington National Cemetery, Arlington, .

22 23 * UB. GOVERNMENT PaINTING OrnCE 1980-311-348/44 As the Nation's principal conservation agency, the Department of the Interior has responsibility for most of our nationally owned public lands and natural resources. This includes fostering the wisest use of our land and water resources, protecting our fish and wildlife, preserving the environmental and cultural values of our national parks and historical places, and providing for the enjoy- ment of life through outdoor recreation. The Department assesses our energy and mineral resources and works to assure that their development is in the best interests of all our people. The Department also has a major responsibility for American Indian reservation communities and for people who live in Island Territories under U.S. admInistration