WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 1

Wrangell St. Elias News

“Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Eighteen Issue Three May & June 2009 $2.50

Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic ski race he Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic Ski Race Tis the longest unsupported backcountry ski race in Alaska. This is not a dog-sled or snowmobile event. Racers in the Classic travel on foot, often with skis. Starting at Nabesna, seven of the nine racers who started towards McCarthy, some 150 miles away, finished. One of those seven, Ned Rozell of Fairbanks has agreed to share his journal with us. WSEN readers will recognize Rozell as the author of many Science Forum articles provided by the University of Alaska, Fairbanks. Traveling with fellow Fairbanksan Michael Gibson and for- mer Fairbanks resident Forest Wagner, the team arrived in McCarthy in just over 6 ½ days. (The winning team of Craig Barnard, Luke Mehl and John Pekar, who chose a shorter but more dangerous route through the Wrangells, had arrived in McCarthy some 3 days earlier!) Sit back, grab a cup of your favorite beverage and enjoy the Wrangell’s wilderness through Ned’s eyes. Story page 12. Photo courtesy Michael courtesy Gibson Photo Ned crossing the Nizina, Forest Wagner waiting in the background.

eorge Mobley, a retired The ten year trip GNational Geographic photographer, had an- swered a simple question I posed while meeting him for the first time at his home in the McCarthy area. “George, you’ve been all around the world on grand assignments and seen some magnificent places. Why did you choose Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve as a place to retire part of the year?” I asked. As I waited for his answer, his eyes spoke to me before his voice. “Because it IS the most beautiful place in the world.” Story page 7. Photo courtesy Peggy Morsch PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 A note from the publisher

amazing professional photos. You’ll area residents for future classes. here is no doubt spring be glad you did. Thanks, Mark! Thas sprung in McCarthy Wayne Maars, along with his Last, but not least, is a heartfelt and the surrounding wife Gaia, own and operate a local thanks to Rick, my husband, my countryside. Today is April 28th and guide service called St. Elias Alpine best friend, the co-owner and pub- nearby creeks are running profusely. Guides (SEAG). We invited him to lisher of this humble publication! In Yesterday’s high temperature was a share his opinion on an NPS/com- the 17 years we have worked side-by- whopping 60 degrees. “Break-up” is mercial operator issue for Group side on WSEN, he not only writes not always pleasant but inevitable. Size Limit in Donohoe Basin. You articles, stories and opinion pages, As my mom used to comfort me will find his article on the For your but he does the layout and keeps with when I made my frequent trips consideration page of this month’s our various office machines and to the dentist: “This too shall pass.” WSEN. Thank you, Wayne, for tak- printers working properly. Today as And, so shall spring break-up! I can- ing the time to write down your I finish “a note,” he is working on a not help but think that by the time thoughts and suggestions on how to last minute article to include in this the July/August issue is ready to reduce bear-human conflicts. issue. The next job assignment he mail, McCarthy gardeners will al- An adventure story by Ned Ro- will take on is finding a place for it ready have their plants in the zell covers his personal journal which means moving a few articles ground and seeds sprouting. This while participating in the Alaska around to make this last one fit. thought is challenging when I look Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic Rick, you are a treasure to me and at our garden plot today and see it Race. Thanks, Ned, for giving us the WSEN readers. Happy birthday, still partially covered by 5 inches of permission to print this in WSEN. Rick! (He celebrates his 62nd year on snow. And...this, too, shall pass! Local resident Mark Vail was May 10th.) On a somewhat sad note, McCa- quick to offer his recollections of a Wrangell St. Elias News wel- rthy area folks have had to say good- recent avalanche safety course he comes aboard the following sub- bye to one of the best postmasters took in early April. Maybe this will scribers: Lorene Ellis, AK; David we’ve ever had! The “sad” part is on whet the appetite of other McCarthy Roman, AK; Kim Ball, AK; Ray and our end, but on Terry Keizer and his Dabene Hendricks, AL. wife, Sally’s part, it means retire- ment from a very busy career with the postal service and more time to Table of Contents participate in fun and fulfilling ad- A note from the publisher...... 2 ventures. Terry was one of the post- Items of Interest...... 3 Postmaster Terry Retires ...... 6 masters that went beyond the extra The ten-year trip...... 7 mile for his customers. I cannot Avalanche safety course encourages safe travel...... 9 count the times he called us with 2009 Long Lake Fishing Derby attracts locals and (thankfully!) fish....9 advice on how we could save money Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic ski race...... 10 in our mailings and, then, in some NPS news...... 12 cases doing it for us. Thanks, Terry, McCarthy Area Council meetings bring change and dignitaries...... 14 for the years of service—and I Changes to National Park Service Local Hiring Authority...... 15 mean—service to us personally and Birth announcements celebrate life...... 16 our town! Subsistence use added to Nabesna EIS...... 16 Ivan R. Thorall...... 17 A nearby land owner, Peggy THE KATALLA HERALD...... 18 Morsch, surprised us with a story The brief life and times of snowshoe hares...... 20 and pictures of her March trip to Firewise landscaping...... 21 McCarthy. She must have started DVD review—Alaska Aurora Hunting...... 21 writing before she ever left the Copper Valley Telephone to vote on Regulatory exemption...... 23 ground in Anchorage, because her Grant-in-aid applications available for museums...... 24 story arrived in plenty of time to Access issue divides neighbors...... 24 make this issue. (Another example MKCC—what’s in a name?...... 25 Cooking with Peggy...... 32 of quick service; this time, for you, A LOOK AT THE WEATHER...... 33 our readers. Thanks, Peggy!) Be FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...... 34 sure to visit Peggy’s web site for her LETTERS TO THE EDITOR...... 35 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 3 Items of Interest

style a great source of happiness. with a list for Mark of a variety of Alysia Herbert: Since Alysia is After her summer job ended last plants she wants to grow in her gar- new to Items of Interest, I decided to season, she did some traveling, but den plots this summer. start with her. Although she is not a once March arrived, she made sure Mark does manage to squeeze newcomer to McCarthy, we had not she was back in town. (Today as I in some spare time for birdwatch- officially met until just the other write this “Item,” it is 50 degrees ing. A few spring birds are showing day. It was a brief introduction on a outside, the warmest day so far.) up in his yard: a brightly-colored mail day. I invited her for tea and She made it back just in time! snow bunting; a pair of 3-toed wood- she took me up on the offer. I asked her what she was doing peckers and a Downy woodpecker. It turned out to be quite a fun- with her time: “I have learned how While on a recent skiing trip up filled “tea” break. We were joined by to drive a snowmachine, chainsaw the Lakina River with Carl Donohue, Dorothy Adler and her 2-year old and cut my own firewood, and just Mark reports they both spotted a son Logan. Bjorn Keller, and his dad finished taking a 2-day avalanche Blackback Woodpecker, a rare Jeremy, happened to stop by. While course given by Matt and Meghan sighting for our area. Due to trail Rick and dad talked business, Bjorn Smith.” When Alysia is not doing conditions (or should I say the lack joined the tea party in progress. all of the above, she gives her atten- thereof!), Mark and Carl didn’t Alysia’s transportation was a tion to painting, embroidery and make it all the way up the river, but 3-wheeler belonging to Ian Gyori, other craft projects. they sure had a great skiing adven- who happens to live just down the Mark Vail: Another participant ture. road from me, but is at the present in the avalanche course was Mark. In the meantime he is still wait- time still in New York. Alysia single- In fact, I just got off the phone with ing for the annual arrival of the handedly shoveled it out of its win- him in which he dictated an article swans and juncos—sure signs of ter garage —26 inches of snow. This on the subject. Be sure to read his spring. unique ATV instantly became an account as you may want to take It is April 20th and I am putting part in the next course Matt and item of interest with Logan and 4- the finishing touches on “Items.” I Meghan offer. year old Bjorn. Staying indoors just talked to Mark on the phone while the ladies visited was just not When Mark isn’t riding his bike and he let me know his first Robin on the agenda. Alysia and her 3- to mail or attending local activities, and Varied Thrush of this year’s sea- wheeler became the center of at- he can be found making several son appeared yesterday. “The migra- traction, thus we ladies had to ad- trips, morning and evening, to and tion is on,” says Mark. journ our social event to the from his greenhouse. Approximately Cal Ward, Jr: The Ward family outdoors. 20 plus trays of those vegetable homestead at Fireweed Mountain plants we are all eager to see pro- Alysia comes from Pennsylvania has a rich history. During the duce, are occupying much of Mark’s where her parents live. Since the Kennicott/McCarthy mining days, a time these days. The plants are summer of 2007 when she first be- man by the name of Pete Johnson thriving on the 6-hours of full sun, gan working for the McCarthy owned and operated a steam engine says Mark. A summer neighbor of Lodge (serving in their dining powered sawmill which supplied mine, Barbara Rice, emailed me room), she finds the McCarthy life- building lumber for McCarthy. He

Wrangell St. Elias News (USPS 011301) VOL. Eighteen, Issue Three, May & June 2009. Published every two months at McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX 1-866-487-7657. E-mail: [email protected] “Copyright © 2009 by Wrangell St. Elias News. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without the express permission of the publishers.” Contributors to this issue: Peggy Guntis, George Cebula, Ned Rozell, Wayne Maars, Mark Vail, Peggy Morsch, Carole Morrison, Meg Jensen and Mary Odden. Subscription price is $14 for one year in the USA. Canada $16. Other countries $23. Advertising rates upon request. Deadline for publication in next issue is June 15. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Wrangell St. Elias News, McCarthy #42, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588-8998. PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 logged the timber himself using The McCarthy Lodge made April’s Home-off-the-range rooms: horses and cross saws. The Ma John- cover story for National Geographic fabric-covered walls, handmade son Hotel, was built with some of Traveler Magazine. The story, "129 quilts, pedestal sinks. Saloon is a that lumber. Pete and his wife Hotels We Love To Stay At," is a spe- popular local hangout, with "open owned and operated it during cial stay list of unique hotels that mike" evenings. Greenhouse sup- McCarthy’s heyday in the 20's and define their sense of place. plies fresh produce; salmon caught 30's. The following is an introduction wild. Playtime: Fly-in glacier trek- Cal seems to have inherited to the story which I found very inter- king, alpine hiking, rafting. 20 Pete’s enthusiasm for making his esting and thought you would, too! rooms; from $129.” own lumber —for Pete it was lum- It was written by Charles Kulander Neil says he and the staff are ber for McCarthy’s building proj- and used by permission. excited about the summer. Until ects, for Cal, just a small-scale “The hotels on our Stay List summer arrives, they are gearing up operation for himself and nearby 2009 don't just reflect their for a great season. Local contractor, locals. His sawmill, which he pur- surroundings—they help define Jeremy Keller, is working on the chased years ago, is gasoline pow- them. What they all have in com- upgrades for Ma Johnson’s and the ered. Instead of horses, he makes mon is a transcendent vision that Lancaster—new carpet, vinyl floor- use of a track vehicle called a Rang- goes beyond traditional ing, to name a few. er, a snowmachine and snowshoes. hotel-keeping. This mindset is what Thanks, Neil, for quite an item Creating his own lumber for proj- gives these hotels their special of interest and congratulations for ects and harvesting some of his sense of place. Make no mistake: making the 129 Stay List! nearby resources gives him great You'll sense the vibe at once. Maybe Matthew, Elishaba (Hale) and fulfillment, he says. Thankfully, he is it's the regional architecture that Esther Grace Speckels: The Speck- willing to share his expertise in lum- speaks to you. Or a guest room res- els’ family paid the McCarthy area ber-making as well as the finished onating with history. Or local food and their friends a visit in March. project. that not only tastes great but tells a They had someone they wanted us Recently, Rick and I shared with story to boot. After your stay, you'll all to meet! Cal our desire to build a new guest leave with the kind of insight only Baby Esther Grace is, as Elisha- cabin. Before the visit was over, he soulful places can provide. ba says, “a blessing and a picture of offered to help. In short order the “To find these hotels, Traveler God’s grace in our lives. She is majority of the lumber we needed tapped into the collected experienc- growing so fast it is hard to believe was sitting in piles in our yard, es of veteran journalists, inveterate that three months have already ready for the snow to melt and the road warriors, and local experts. past. Esther has been so full of building site to be revealed. Cal says They based their nominations on smiles ever since she was born.” I he is even eager to give us a hand at key criteria. Is the hotel engaged can certainly attest to that apt de- putting the cabin together this sum- with the local community? Does it scription of her. mer. Working with his own lumber subscribe to sustainable practices Matthew and Elishaba brought and seeing it to completion will give that respect the region? Does it tru- pictures of a new house they are him great satisfaction. ly capture the spirit of its setting? building on their property in Palm- Thanks, Cal, for all your hard Further research and detailed ques- er. They are so eager to move in but work and an excellent product. tionnaires winnowed hundreds of it may not be ready until fall, Elisha- We’ll see you in June! submissions down to this sweet list ba says. They want plenty of room Neil Darish: All is well in the of 129 hotels. for visitors and family members and downtown area of McCarthy, says “There's something for everyone gatherings. Neil, who, by the way for those of here, from wilderness cabins to ur- Rick and I were pleased to you who don’t know, is the owner of ban lairs of luxury—all authentic, catch-up on their progress as a fam- the McCarthy Lodge, the Ma John- purposeful places to enhance your ily and meet in person Esther son Hotel and The Lancaster. The travels. Welcome to Stay List 2009.” Grace. Thanks for stopping by and “hotel” is still taking in guests and Just in case you are the curious making the long trip out to see old serving those visiting our area, al- type...Here’s what they wrote about friends! though it is in a restored and McCarthy Lodge and the Ma John- Jim and Audrey Edwards: spruced-up condition, without loss son Hotel: When I called the Edwards’ house, of its great historic value to our “A 1920s-frontier false-front Audrey was in-between chores. One town. hotel in a restored Alaskan ghost such chore was unpacking from a Neil was more-than-excited town, surrounded by enormous trip she took to Anaheim, Ca. with when I talked to him the other day. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. her sister, Marelyn, her niece, Melo- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 5 dy, and Melody’s 6 year old son, Lo- Linda (Warren) Phillips, who are 3 months of the winter with family gan. Of course I expected Audrey summer visitors to the McCarthy in Washington state and even man- had enjoyed her travels and the ex- area. George’s brother Ted from aged to work a stint as a Nursing citement of taking in the sights at Milwaukee met up with George in Assistant to keep her license cur- Disneyland. Phoenix and they drove out to rent. Visiting her 90-year old grand- The weather was “nice, great, Washington state to see Ted’s mother was a highlight of her trip. beautiful, warm”—and plenty of daughter Sharon and her family. Howard kept an eye on their sunshine to go around, says Audrey. Prior to visiting Phoenix, place in McCarthy, managing to get The three women (Audrey actually George made his annual trip to Tuc- in a few snowmachine ventures and said “old ladies”) had quite an ad- son where Jim and Peggy Guntis then when Chris was ready to head venture. Young Logan did his best (also summer McCarthyites) spend north again, he flew down to meet to act as their tour guide, making the winter. up with her. They had a pleasant sure they didn’t miss anything excit- George and Sophie continued drive home even taking in a ferry ing! Needless to say, Audrey had their trip home via the ferry and ride and doing a bit of sightseeing some recuperating to do upon her arrived safe and sound at their Mc- in southeast. arrival at home. Carthy home. Sophie is in good spir- Since arriving home, Chris said Mt. Redoubt threatened to de- its and health. I think she enjoyed she has managed to build a couple tain her departure and arrival to basking in the warmth of Arizona’s burrow end tables and is now work- and from Anchorage, but she man- winter and I don’t blame her! Wel- ing on a hutch made from hand cut aged to squeak through and just come home, George and Sophie. spruce lumber she acquired from made her connections enabling her Tim Mischel and Kathy Drury: Cal Ward. It will have a country, to meet a few other relatives en Tim and Kathy made good use of rough-cut flavor to it, she said. I am route. Side trips to Knoxsberry the added daylight hours and warm- eager to see her handiwork. I expect Farm and Snoopy Park (for Logan’s er temperatures of mid-March to it will be finished by the time Rick sake, I’m sure) filled out her travels travel to Tim’s home away from and I need our next haircut. and didn’t allow for any moments of home—the Angle Station above Chris is an avid fisherwoman boredom. Kennicott. and made it to the Chitina Fishing Jim managed to stay plenty On their return to the valley Derby where she caught a 12 inch busy while Audrey was playing in the below, they immediately set off for Rainbow Trout. sunshine. He tackled nearby trails Anchorage to visit Tim’s nephew In between her crafts and fish- and paths with his snowblower, do- Joseph Wald and Tim’s sister Sha- ing, Chris is pulling out those vege- ing his best to encourage the re- ron. Both Joseph and his mom are table seeds and getting ready for maining snow to disappear. He is landowners in the area and visit the spring. Howard is taking on replen- now busy cleaning out their numer- area as often as they can. Joseph is ishing their wood pile. Both the Ha- ous bird houses. The swallows presently recuperating from sur- leys were rehired by the National should be grateful for all the atten- gery. We pray for a quick recovery, Park Service this year so they are tion they receive at the Edwards’ Joseph. making wise use of their available homestead! Hopefully, they will do The Chitina Fishing Derby was time before their jobs begin some- their part in eliminating as many of in progress the day Tim and Kathy time in early May. those pesky mosquitos that find headed back to McCarthy. Kathy McCarthy students complete their way into our area. said they enjoyed taking in the fes- annual testing: I was privileged to, Since returning to McCarthy, tivities at Silver Lake where a 3 lb. 5 once again, act as testing proctor Audrey is pulling out those vegeta- oz. Rainbow Trout took top prize. on behalf of the Galena City School ble seeds, planting trays and dirt. Shortly after Tim and Kathy ar- District’s IDEA (Interior Distance It’s quite obvious what she has in rived in McCarthy, they paid Rick Education of Alaska) program. I am mind. and I a visit, hand delivering always glad I am the proctor and Welcome home, Audrey, and Sharon’s subscription renewal to not the student being tested! This glad you were ready to come home! WSEN. We hope to see more of Jo- year’s students were David, Hannah, George Cebula and Sophie: seph and his fiancee, Erica, this Daniel and Jubal Rowland. The test- George and dog Sophie deserve a summer. Their plans include a wed- ing was held at the McCathy-Kenni- “welcome home,” too. They just re- ding in our town which is always a cott Community Church. This was turned from enjoying an overabun- time for celebration. Jubal’s first year to participate in dance of sunshine and warm Arizona Howard and Chris Haley: The the testing process. His brothers weather. They spent two weeks in Haleys returned from a trip and his sister are old-hat to the Phoenix visiting friends, Art and challenges of test taking. “outside” on March 4th. Chris spent PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

All students survived and so did For more information you may call According to Dave Parmenter, own- their proctor! 907-835-2984 or go on the follow- er and pilot for CVAS, you don’t May Day Fly-in at Valdez: We ing web site: www.valdezalaska.org. have to be a pilot and you may fly or just received word that the May Day The Christian Pilot’s Associa- drive to the event. Bring an appetite Fly-in at Valdez will be on May 8-10. tion invites everyone to participate for a hearty breakfast will be served.

Voted “Top 100 Must See Events in in their 1st Annual Fly-in Breakfast

America,” this year’s events include: to be held at 10 a.m., May 16th on Poker Run, Beach Landing, Flour the tarmac in front of Copper Valley Bombing and STOL Competition. Air Service’s hangar in Gulkana. Postmaster Terry Retires

when the various postmasters were and fishing. Did we mention that t's been a long and varied out of town or on days off. Terry is a fishing nut? Istring of living situations for Sally had a job with a finance By 2005, though, Terry and Sal- Terry and Sally Keizer dur- company in Sioux Falls and the ly were thinking about making their ing Terry's United States Postal Ser- Keizers had a nice home in Baltic, way to some location on the Alaska vice career, from Baltic, South but the USPS was about to tempt road system, and then a retirement Dakota, to Glennallen, Alaska, but them with adventure. move back to South Dakota. The Terry says they wouldn't trade any of There were postal job openings first part of that plan worked out. it. around the country for clerks will- Terry competed for the Glennal- Well, maybe Terry would be ing to transfer at their own expense, len postmaster job and was hired. willing to trade the 108 degrees F and the jobs in Alaska caught Ter- He started work on October 1, the summer he worked as a city car- ry's eye. In 2003 he bit on a full 2005, thinking he would only spend rier in Flandreau, South Dakota, but time job at the Bethel, Alaska, post a year and a few more months be- otherwise he says it's been office. The nine months he spent as hind the counter, then take an early "wonderful experiences and people" a junior clerk in Bethel meant living retirement back to Baltic. A retire- all along the way. solo, as Sally stayed behind to finish ment seminar threw cold water on Terry had returned to Baltic, up the year's projects at her job and that plan, and something else South Dakota, from his second help with family events. occurred—the Keizers decided that hitch with the United States Army In January, 2004, though, Terry Glennallen felt like home. after a total of 14 active duty years. was offered the job of Postmaster at Soon active in many volunteer In 1991 after having a cup of coffee Mountain Village, a Yupik village activities, church, community mu- with friends at the Baltic Cafe, he north of Bethel on the Y-K delta and sic, and as the “unofficial Cross was walking across the street to pay the last village on the Yukon River Road Medical Center fishing and his telephone bill when the post- before reaching the coastal villages. wilderness adventure guides,” Terry master stuck his head out the win- Sally came to join him in February and Sally have become indispensible dow and hailed him. "Hey Terry!" he and the small plane deposited her to nearly everyone who knows them yelled, "do you want a job with the on the snowy runway at 20 below in the Copper Valley. They now plan Postal Service?" with the wind whistling. She had to to establish their retirement home That first job was as a "casual" wait a while, as Terry had no trans- somewhere in the midst of all these employee, but Terry moved from the portation "but my own two feet," friends and activities. Baltic "post master relief" job to the and was trying to round up someone Congratulations to Terry on his career path job on the Flandreau with a vehicle. When he finally was retirement after nearly 28 years of sidewalks. After that, he took part- able to get to the airstrip he told federal service. time clerk positions in Garretson, her, “Welcome to bush Alaska.” If you came into the post office then Dell Rapids, only four miles The Keizers liked their nearly during Terry's last week at work, the from Baltic where he and Sally still two years in Mountain Village very week ending March 20, you may lived. much. Having lived in South Dako- have been surprised to see his nor- To fill out his paycheck, Terry ta, they were not put off by small mally snowy hair dyed blue—the pulled night shifts at the big postal towns, snow and wind, or sub-zero color of an especially bright snow center in Sioux Falls two to four winter temperatures. They "were cone at the state fair. nights a week. He was getting lots warmly received," made many last- of experience as "officer in charge" ing friends, and enjoyed the wildlife WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 7

This is quintessential Keizer. Auction. That lovely shade of blue Thanks, Terry, for being a great With a significant nudge from Don- brought in more than $500 towards Postmaster, and to Terry and Sally na Catledge, Terry offered to the new ambulance. for all the energy you have added to change his hair color to raise money our communities. Welcome home. at the previous week's CREMS Radio The ten-year trip

t was about 10 years I ago Ithat I found myself in what was to be a seed-bearing conversation with Daniel Morrison, the primo builder/fine carpenter in the McCarthy area. He was working on our cabin when I spoke with him about how George Mobley, a retired National Geographic photographer, had answered a simple question I posed while meeting him for the first time at his home in the McCa- rthy area. “George, you’ve been all around the world on grand assignments and seen some magnificent places. Why did you choose Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve as a place to retire part of the year?” I Photo courtesy the author asked. As I waited for his answer, well a great time to observe all the Bonnie Kenyon greeted me at his eyes spoke to me before his changes in the natural world. Larry the plane, dressed in her snow ma- voice. “Because it IS the most Turnbull, who plumbed my cabin, chine suit and purple goggles, with beautiful place in the world.” talked about the warmth of the sun a big smile on her face! “Welcome that time of year, and many others to McCarthy!” she hailed as the So as I shared that conversation who planted the seeds for this year’s “bowl” of the snow-bound moun- with Daniel, I told him my favorite winter trip. Thanks everybody for tains surrounded my view. After the time of year for photographing in piquing my curiosity! mail was sorted she graciously snow- the Wrangells was the fall. Yellows, machined me to my cabin, where greens and reds abound on the I arrived on the mail plane, Daniel and Carole Morrison greeted mountains against the backdrop of which in itself is an adventure! me with open arms and a good fire crispy, clear days and blue skies. “If Dave, from Copper Valley Air Ser- going in my little Vermont Castings you think the fall is great, you vice took me on a special route up stove. They had come in to help me should see it in the winter,” Daniel the Lakina River drainage and over get the cabin warmed up. Good replied. “The last two weeks in the mountains into the 4th of July thing, because after a couple of March are the best. There’s about Pass; a place that I had seen in Mark hours of fire, it was 44 degrees in- 2-3 feet of snow on the ground, the Vail’s pictures from his hike side! Can you say “indoor camp- temperatures are warming into the through that area last summer. ing?” But by bedtime it would be 20’s and 30’s and the best part is Beautiful! When photographing in 60—cozy enough for my first night. the 12 hours of daylight.” this Cessna 185, you need to imag- With their care in getting my solar Now to be fair, I must tell you ine a small, single engine plane with minimal elbow room in the cockpit. power and water up and running, I that I had similar conversations went to bed feeling pampered, but about the beauty of late March with I put my camera through a workout as the day was bright, clear, and did grateful for their skill sets and assis- Mark Vail, the local ‘naturalist’ and tance. friend, who talked about it being I mention cold?! It was minus My first few mornings dawned the best part of winter to go on something when we left Gulkana. bright and clear, and I was told it camping trips with his sled dogs, as But it didn’t matter because I was warmed by the magnificent scenery! was about –20 outside. Those R40 PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 ceilings and R30 walls that Daniel al” viewpoint. We saw a couple of but on the day I was to fly back to and his boys had built sure kept in moose moving quickly along the Milwaukee, the gritty ash from Mt. the heat. The temperature had held crease formed by the mountain and Redoubt’s “sneeze” blew over An- at 60 all night, even with me stok- the river, and we took in the histori- chorage for the first time. My flight ing the fire a couple of times during cal Nizina River Bridge, which was was canceled, the airport was closed the night. The cabin walls still once a “bridge to somewhere.” Then “indefinitely” and TV reporters were weren’t yet warmed but, hey, that there was the view of the Nikolai delivering “live” news with dust was an 80-degree difference from Butte, Williams Peak, Mt. Holmes masks and goggles on. Sled dogs outside to inside! and Chititu Peak across some open were brought inside and just when When the sun came up, the pas- water. Throw in that clear, blue everyone wanted to be outside play- sive solar design of the cabin just sky, and I was talking about a ing in the warmer weather, Redoubt soaked up the warmth of the sun ‘picture perfect” trip! drove them back indoors. The news like a sponge. When it hit 70 in- We scooted up Young Creek and reports stated that these eruptions side, I worked in a T-shirt grouting took in another amazing view of the could go on for weeks and months the tile around the wood stove. It mountains, and I felt grateful and and I wondered if I would become a was warmer than our 100+ year old inspired at the same time. When temporary resident of Alaska! My Victorian in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, you are looking out at 360-degree McCarthy friends & neighbors, where we keep it at 67 degrees. So views of snow-covered mountains on Mark, Emily, Ross and Lucy Bass the cabin passed the warmth factor a sunny day, and you stop to consid- provided me with a comfortable, “stress test” with flying colors! er first, its creation and second, the homey place to stay while I waited I came to photograph this mag- fact that there are 13.2 million for the skies to clear, and we took in nificent winter landscape, and each acres of this repeated many times the Asian Alaskan Cultural Perfor- day I watched the light change over over within the park boundaries. mance at the Anchorage Perfor- the mountains and create those gor- “Awe, wonderment and humble” are mance Center. geous shadows early and late in the such small words to try to describe Northwest Airlines brought in a day. I heard Great Northern Owls the enormity of one’s feelings. Hav- specially chartered 747 jet that and Goshawks, saw the ubiquitous ing come here for 10 years, I’ve nev- scooped us up to head for the Lower Artic Hare tracks, and some moose er once heard a person say or imply 48 states. On board were two tracks, and felt grateful for this ex- that they take these views for grant- friends I had previously hiked with perience. Because I was alone, I ed. I could see why. on an REI trip around Mt. Blanc in ventured out only when the temper- So my busy time of making im- 2003. We had met for lunch the atures came up to zero. Carrying ages and splitting wood had to day before in Anchorage and that’s some survival gear and dressed in come to an end. My time here cor- when I discovered they would be on my flight! A small world brought my hunter orange down coat, I responded with the 20th anniversary laughed that if something happened of the grounding of the Valdez and back together within the eruptions or should I say, disruptions, of one to me, at least they’d be able to the 30th anniversary of the Three active volcano. spot me! Mile Island meltdown, which I di- At first I walked with my rectly experienced while attending So I thank all of you who sug- neighbor’s, (Emily and Mark Bass) undergraduate school in Pennsylva- gested I come up and experience the “best part of winter” and also plastic sled behind me, with my pho- nia. Then there was the 45th anni- to sling pack, tripod and Emily’s versary of the 1964 earthquake that those that made my stay more com- snowshoes inside. That kept the devastated Alaska. Of course, I fortable. It was a pleasure to visit weight off my back and sliding along would be leaving out another adven- with all of you in a season where you the snow, but it was a heavier, snow- ture if I didn’t mention the historic had more time for that activity! machine sled for pulling “freight.” eruptions of Mt. Redoubt that be- Audrey, it was a pleasure to meet Bonnie and Rick offered their small- you before you left town and many gan on March 23rd, 2009, and its thanks to Chris Haley. She not only er, lighter plastic sled, and that ripple effects on the last few days of has good wine but she makes a made all the difference in the world. my Alaskan journey. It all started great chicken pot pie! It sure beat Walking up to 5-6 miles in boots on the day I was to fly out of McCa- the backpacking food I mailed in was much easier with that sled! rthy with Dave and his Cessna, when ahead of time. One of the highlights of this Rick Kenyon said, “I have good news winter adventure was the day I spent and bad news about your flight.” I I’ll be back next March for some with Daniel Morrison and Howard knew exactly what he meant. Mt. more images but let’s hope Mt. Re- Haley when they “chauffeured” me Redoubt had erupted again! doubt skips a repeat performance! out onto the frozen Nizina River; a Volcanic ash had temporarily You can view Peggy’s images white landscape I could only appre- delayed my arrival in Anchorage, online at: ciate from an “up close and person- http://www.peggymorsch.com WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 9 2009 Long Lake Fishing Derby attracts locals and (thankfully!) fish

Jubal tied for one each. Rick and While taking Cal’s picture along ong Lake: —Ice-fishing Mark Vail landed a few smaller vari- with his “catch” for the day, I over- Lmay not be everyone’s eties and I at least had a decent heard his niece, Sarah Ward, com- “thing” to do in winter, bite! Jubal did more than catch a ment, “Dad (Art Ward) always said but for those who turned out to this fish, however. He actually cleaned it his brother was a better fisherman!” year’s derby, it certainly WAS the right then and there, placed it on a He got that right. Cal took home a stick and promptly roasted it over brand new fishing rod for the most thing to do on March 28th. the well-fed bon fire. caught and the largest fish. Lynn The first to arrive at the lake, was presented with a new rod and besides the annual derby host Jim Approximately 24 folks showed Jubal took the youngest fisherman’s Kreblin, was Don and Lynn Welty up to either fish, visit with neigh- award, a puzzle. and Kaleb and Jubal Rowland. Rick bors, try their hand at ice bowling and I arrived shortly thereafter. or sample Mark Vail’s delicious Jim Kreblin claims Cal has now Within a half hour Cal Ward of Fire- “North Slope” chili. Some partici- won enough tackle to start his own weed Mountain made his entrance pated in all events. sporting good’s store on Fireweed on snowmachine, pulling a sled lad- An ice-fishing tent was in place Mountain. “He can expect to be pro- en with rod, lures and fish eggs. Af- this year once again with folks en- moted next year to Life-time ter picking his spot on the ice, joying the scenery below the ice. An Judge.” (For some reason, I just drilling a hole in just the right loca- occasional, “There’s a fish heading couldn’t quite see this as a promo- tion, he settled down onto his snow- your way,” rang out to the nearby tion. Obviously, I am missing some- machine seat —prepared to catch fisherfolk. All rod holders went on thing here.) It looks like I’ll have to those unsuspecting Dollies. And alert and, for some, it was well wait until next year’s derby to see that is just what he did! worth it. how this plays out. About 1:30 pm the action be- In-between moments of action, Thank you once again, Jim, for gan. Before long Cal had pulled in 4 folks ambled off to the bon fire to hosting such a fine community Dolly Varden, each at least 18 inch- either warm up or roast hot dogs gathering! es long. Lynn caught two; Don and and marshmallows. Avalanche safety course encourages safe travel

lanche dynamics: 1) terrain; 2) placed in various scenarios to prac-

cCarthy:—On April 8th snow pack; 3) weather; 4) man; 5) tice our new skills. backcountry travel. Each segment Mand 9th, eighteen area Regular practice with the bea- skiers and snowmachin- was followed by questions and an- cons is required. At the end of the ers gathered to learn about ava- swers and a short break outside to day our instructors displayed proper lanche safety. Local residents, Matt enjoy the spring sunshine. shoveling techniques and recapped and Meghan Smith, presented the Day two saw 16 return for a day the course, answering questions. We two-day basic course for free, with of outdoor instruction using ava- all left with new safety tools for some sponsorship by the National lanche beacons, probes and shovels. backcountry traveling. Our thanks Park Service. Matt worked the win- We broke into two groups and go out to Matt and Meghan and ter with the Alaska Avalanche learned how to test, power, where their sponsors. School. and use a beacon. Watch for future classes and The first day, we met at Tony As the afternoon progressed, we travel safe! Zak’s for a 5-part PowerPoint pre- changed instructors and were sentation. This covered five ava- PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic ski race

A journal By Ned Rozell April 3, 2009 A nice pull Night 1, Cooper Creek today. Lots of A few miles shy of the Blue Lake snow on Cooper turn, the one we don't want to take Creek ice, but this year. ice creepers ($20) did the Nine of us left Dave Cramer's trick as I walked compound, mile 83.5 Tok Cutoff the tricky parts. Road, for the start at Devil's Moun- A fox walked tain Lodge. Three–Luke, John, and right up on us Chunk–took a right up Nabesna Gla- after we saw cier to do the President's Chair gla- Dave Cramer on cier route, a straighter line to the trail. McCarthy. Chunk, aka Craig, said Photo courtesy the author they each carried about 10 pounds So much This is the last photo of thousands I have taken with my of food, in the form of Taco Bell snow here that old Nikon Coolpix. We're headed through the canyon at burritos. "One for breakfast, one for we haven't shoul- dusk, me just about to get wet. lunch, one for dinner." dered our packs yet (we have a We on the low route have at system where we can either pull our and an open door that left it full of least twice as much food. Three peo- turtle-shell sled packs or carry them snow. We shoveled out, and will ple are ahead of Michael and I–Dave on our shoulders). Our sleds have have a fire tomorrow morning to Cramer, Forest Wagner, and Rob sufficed so far. remove all the ice from our from Anchorage. Danielle from An- Saw Forest Wagner's tracks and bindings.So lovely outside. Stars chorage is somewhere camped be- bright as magic, a faint aurora hind us. were hoping to camp with him on this island. He may have veered left cranking up. Big headwind today and a few on a side trail and camped across April 7, 2009 skis through overflow made for fro- the Chisana. Since Andy and I have Night 4, Hobbit Forest zen bindings and an epic doublepole gotten our feet wet on the Chisana day as the wind blasted us near the With Andy's friend Forest, and twice by overflow, Michael and I mouth of Cooper Creek. Cramer, Michael. We shut ‘er down at 4 p.m. agreed it would be good to shut ‘er who could take his skis off, installed rather than march through Skolai down and hit the river first thing in his ice creepers and made good Pass in a howling headwind (this is the morning, when it may be more time, crossing paths with a few river winter, after all, and that is Skolai solid. Thankful to be out here in the otters on the way. We used his ad- Pass). country! vice and used a few containers of In ‘99, Andy and I were camped lock de-icer to free our boots just April 6, 2009 in gnarled willows 10 feet behind before we camped. Night 3, Solo Mountain Cabin where I now sit on my backpack. Tired on this take-off day, time Solo Mountain cabin! In this old This patch of Hobbit woods is the to shut ‘er down, under a million gold-country waypoint with Michael only protection for miles ahead, billion stars . . . and Forest Wagner, who reeled us in filled with jogging ptarmigan. Back then, Andy and I were babes in the April 5, 2009 today despite busting through the Chisana last night and getting his woods, having a campfire here be- Night 2, by Dot Lake, an island shoes wet. fore stumbling through the pass. near Chisana A flawless run for us (thanks to Ten years later, two new friends. After passing over this lovely GPS with properly loaded maps!), Woke early in Solo Mountain island three times, I'm finally camp- though slow, with snowmachine cabin, after a night sharing the ing on this oasis of witches' broom trail assist. There's a TV in this cab- wood-plank bunk with Forest, Mi- spruce and swamps. Must be a few in, though no electricity or receiv- chael on the floor. Fired the wood flying squirrels around here. able signals! Also a busted window stove this morning, and it thawed WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 11 our frozen bindings despite the handle and a few hose clamps. I just making me hot water for dinner. It's missing cabin window. Found the reinforced it here in the cabin by good to have partners in this race. trail down to White River, along pounding a carved willow stick in- As for the rest of an extraordi- with painted skulls and moose ant- side the broken metal tube. Good to nary day, Forest led us through the lers. Funnest downhill of the trip. go. Golden Horn gully, the deep cut Made good time to here over Tough day for me. Big blister on under that amazing rock formation, some of the prettiest terrain of the my left instep, which is used to set and a few other trenches. He, the trip (crossing of Lime Creek lovely, the edge of the most important ski only one with crampons, kicked as usual). when skiing south-facing slopes. steps for Mike and I a few times. We To my delight, Forest suggested Ouch! took our time. shuttin' ‘er down here, and Michael But the boys pulled me through, Mike found a great path down concurred. All that's left is to enjoy by fixing my pole while I snacked to Skolai Creek itself. Usually, this a the view! and by waiting for me with much a hellish bust through alders and April 8, 2009 patience. They are sleeping in tents prickly bushes. Mike zig-zagged us Night 5, Frederika Creek cabin! outside now. Now to get to sleep so right down to the creek after we I can keep up with them tomorrow! crossed the Horn. We made it on All these places I wanted to skis with skins! check out—and here we are! April 9, 2009 A great image up there today— This cabin, another resting Night 6, The gap a family of goats, BELOW us. They point on the old McCarthy to Chisa- between Skolai Creek and noticed us and walked straight up na trail a century ago, caught my Nizina Glacier. to the Golden Horn. eye two years ago as we skied past. Where a dipper lives, flitting Today, we put it in our sights and down this brand-new waterway, and Now, in my moist but warm bag, made it here. This cabin has much where I fell into the creek when a I inventory my Classic Beatup: snow in it too, like Solo Mtn. Here, snow bridge collapsed. We were Frostbite on my pinkie, my rib hurts it pours through the window like a moving through the new canyon cut from something I hit on the fall to waterfall. by Skolai Creek, skiing over ledges the water, and a blister on my left instep the size of a silver dollar. So, we're tenting, after a nice above the open water. Some of the Still, doing well in godly country, pull from the Hobbit Forest. Mi- ledges were the width of two skis. I looking forward to the beauty to- chael's watch alarm went off early, was moving across one and— morrow (our last day?). and we were on the trail at 7 a.m., splash—I was in the foot-deep water even before sunrise—unheard of! on my side with skis and pack on. April 10, 2009 We aced Skolai Pass, thanks to a Forest was nearby, having led us Night 7, McCarthy ton of snow that covered the piles of through the canyon. He saw me in We busted in. Made it to John rock you usually walk over in ski the water and told me to keep my Adams' B&B, home of two trays of boots all day. hand on the bottom, and most of lasagna, at 2 a.m. The snow allowed us to ski with my body out of the water. I did, About a 40-mile day, more than skins the entire way. Forest and Mi- aware that my camera in my right doubling the mileage of some days. pocket was under cold water, and chael picked a great route through Started with a problem. As the that I didn't have a clue how to get the pass. "I was following the boys were ready to go, I found my up with my skis and pack on. wolves," Forest said. We saw tracks boots hard as concrete. Couldn't the whole way, as a wolf pack tra- “I’m going to pick you up now,” force my feet into them even versed the opposite way, maybe Forest said, after which he grabbed though I removed the liners and when we were sleeping last night. me by the pack and I was back on bent them open last night. Sitting We paused high on Castle my feet. I climbed back on a snow there, boots and feet in sleeping Mountain and looked out at where bridge and dripped off for a bit, bag, an idea. pulling out my wet camera and no- Russell Glacier crashes into rock Forest took my boots over to ticing I’d lost my Swiss Army knife, and turns northward, making Skolai the open Skolai Creek and held one that had been with me since Pass. them both underwater. He didn't let before the Alaska days. On our descent from a mile go. The 36-degree water thawed high on the slope of Castle Moun- The boys found a camp right them enough for me to wedge my tain, I dug my ski tips in soft snow, past the canyon and next to the wall feet in. of Nizina Glacier. Mike set up the fell on my pole, and broke it in half! We took off, following the faded tent, and I jumped in and got in my Forest and Michael did a temp. re- tracks of the three guys who did the sleeping bag in my wet clothes. pair with part of Forest's spare pole glacier route. Mike did everything from there, PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 NPS news

the New School. Please be careful Mountain Center to test the use of want to update you on in the mill town this summer; there electric fencing in conjunction with Isome of the activities the will be heavy equipment at work. dogs to protect bears from human National Park Service has Interpretation: The interpre- food. We are looking forward to the planned in the Kennecott/McCarthy tive staff will be staffing the Kenne- research summit which is being area for summer 2009. We have a cott Visitor's Center and the hosted by the Wrangell Mtn Center busy season ahead, with employees McCarthy Road Information Station in early July! from all the park's divisions working daily. The interpretive rangers will Firewood Cutting EA: Over on projects in the area. I'm happy also be giving daily programs includ- the last couple years we have no- to say that we have many experi- ing the history walk, nature walk ticed increased firewood harvest of enced, returning employees this and screenings of the Kennecott dead standing trees in creek corri- year, as well as some new folks that History film. A twice-weekly illus- dors around the park. We have talk- I am sure will bring a lot to our op- trated history program will be pre- ed intermittently about erations in Kennecott. sented in the evening at the transitioning to a permit system for A change in our organization Kennecott Recreation Hall. Park firewood cutting which we envi- from 2008 is that the park's Visitor staff will also be educating visitors sioned would operate much like the and Resource Protection division along the trails about low-impact subsistence fishing permit we cur- and the Interpretation division have camping practices and how to be rently issue. Last fall we sent out a been combined into one. Norah safe in bear country. news release which stated that we Martinez is our new Chief of this Protection: The protection were going to embark on a firewood combined division, Visitor Services staff will include the addition of two cutting Environmental Assessment and Protection. Norah began work- or three general rangers this sea- to analyze this proposal and we have ing with us in February and has al- son. These positions will increase since discussed at our last two Sub- ready spent some time in McCarthy our ability to provide emergency sistence Resource Commission getting to know our operation. I medical and search and rescue re- meetings as well as a Citizens Advi- hope to have Norah join me at a sponse as well as bear/human con- sory Committee on Federal Areas MAC meeting in the near future to flict management in the Donohoe meeting . The reaction from most of start meeting folks in the area. Basin. The protection staff will be our park community residents has Here are some of the specific conducting regular patrols to edu- been very negative regarding this projects we have scheduled for this cate visitors on ways to reduce im- proposal. Therefore, we are going year. pacts on park resources. to terminate this EA process, and the proposal to require a firewood Kennecott Restoration: The Enforcement of the park's food stor- cutting permit, at this time. We restoration of the oldest building in age requirement will increase in will be looking at other ways to ad- Kennecott, the General Manager's order to reduce the number of inci- dress park resource concerns and Office, will be completed this sea- dents of bears receiving food from will be discussing with you over the son. The National Creek Trestle, people. The protection staff is months ahead. Please be assured damaged by a flood in 2006, will working with the area guide services that we will continue to involve you also be completely rebuilt and us- to better coordinate emergency in this discussion. able this year. A heating system will medical and search and rescue re- be installed in the General Store sponse, as well as with the fire de- Group Size Limit in Donohoe and a new propane partment to finalize an agreement Basin: We discussed this at MAC's generator/battery bank system will that will benefit fire protection in annual meeting in September 2008 replace the diesel generator for the area. and at that meeting generated a more efficient electrical production. Resource Management: Sever- short list of folks from the McCarthy Restoration work will begin on the al resource management staff will area interested in ongoing discus- Dairy Barn and work will be com- be working in the area this summer sion regarding this issue. Over the pleted on a Silk Stocking Row cot- to control invasive plant species, winter months, we exchanged a tage, as well as the Kennecott count and collect information about number of emails among this group Visitor's Center inside the General the salmon that spawn in Long regarding this issue and made a de- Store. Other restoration work will Lake, and manage historic artifacts cision for the 2009 calendar year occur in the Refrigeration Plant, as in Kennecott. We are working on a operations. On a trial basis this well as the Blackburn School and research agreement with Wrangell year, the park has established a WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 13 group size limit of 12 for the Dono- needs some focused attention. We boundaries between public and pri- hoe Basin for the park's commercial are planning to assess our options vate lands, as well as boundaries operators, in an effort to reduce as soon as it warms up. This issue is between the park and preserve. In- bear-human conflicts in the area. I more complicated than it seems it formational kiosks similar to the have agreed to consider requests for should be—state law limits the op- ones already along the road will be exception to this policy on a case by tions we can consider. installed near the east side of the case basis. We also are evaluating Trail Crew: The parks trail Kennecott River foot bridge, near other locations near the Kennecott crew will be working on maintaining the McCarthy Museum, at the Mc- area which could accommodate existing trails in the area as well as Carthy airport and at the Root Gla- larger groups this year, and will be some new trail development. cier Trail head. These kiosks will discussing these ideas with our af- Mudhole Smith Cabin Restora- include maps that show visitors fected operators in the near future. tion: This cabin at the old McCa- where public lands are and will We will also ask our general rthy airport south of McCarthy hopefully reduce trespass on private park visitors to comply with this creek played an important role in land. limit on a voluntary basis. We plan the early aviation history of the ar- Concessions Management/ to improve our trailhead signing to ea. The cabin will be stabilized this Commercial Use: New to my staff is better educate our visitors on this summer. This is proposed for park Mark Keogh, our new Concessions issue. interpretation use. Management Specialist/Public Af- McCarthy Campground: Our New Shuttle Bus Turn-around: fairs Officer. Mark has worked in trail crew will be doing some initial The park has discussed this trans- the Alaska Tourism industry for work on the campground located portation need with the local com- many years, and most recently was near the toe of the glacier in McCa- munity and included the concept as the co-owner of Copper River Excur- rthy where the bear boxes are locat- a part of the Kennecott Support Fa- sions in Copper Center. He will be ed. cilities Plan which was developed a working closely with all our com- Front Country Planning: We few years ago. Over the winter, we mercial operators in the park to plan to embark on a front country had the opportunity to compete for maintain a high-quality, proactive planning effort, beginning in 2010, new funding from Congress and in program. He will be visiting with all which will address a variety of man- January 2009 the park was approved our commercial operators and get- agement issues in the park's front- for a Centennial Challenge match- ting to know them this year. country along the Nabesna and ing grant from the National Park Special Events: A volunteer McCarthy Road Corridors and in Service to construct a shuttle bus trail work and park clean up event the Kennecott/McCarthy area. turnaround and to design and devel- will occur in McCarthy on June 11th Some airstrips may be included in op interpretive displays for the gen- and 12th. Construction of a new trail this plan, most likely those strips eral store visitor center. A $50,000 starting at the McCarthy Road Infor- which serve as major portals to the donation from the Steve and Mary mation Station and clean up and backcountry. Other planning issues Birch Foundation made this addi- restoration of the Mudhole Smith likely to be included are tional $50,000 funding possible. cabin will begin during these two transportation(motorized and non- The construction of a new shuttle days. All are encouraged to come motorized) and trails designation, bus turn-around in Kennecott will help out! Contact Kennecott Dis- defensible space in the community- occur this summer. The turn- trict Ranger Stephens Harper, 907- park interface, solid waste transfer around will be located on the south 554-1144, for more information. station, recreational development, side of the Blackburn School, the A ribbon cutting ceremony for bear/people management in the first building on the left as you en- the historic General Manager's Of- Donohoe Basin, and trails and facili- ter Kennecott. This new facility will fice will be held on September 6th. ty development. We are looking for- have a small rain shelter, interpre- We are excited to open this newly ward to this process and hope to tive panels and an informational restored building to the public and have lots of public participation kiosk to provide important park and would like to take this opportunity from the Kennecott and McCarthy community information, as well as a to highlight the completion of this communities. This is an opportunity map to orient visitors to Kennecott. and other projects in Kennecott, for us to work together on a com- This will also be the site of a new such as the new Visitor's Center and mon vision for our collaborative ef- entrance sign to the Kennecott new electrical system. Stay tuned forts in the area. Mines National Historic Landmark. for more information as our plans Root Glacier Trail Outhouse: New Informational Signs: Ad- develop over the next few months. The Park recognizes that the out- ditional signs will be installed along We'd love to have you join us! house on the Root Glacier trail the McCarthy road which will show PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

The dipper, pioneer bird, flew to than they become. You plunge in, aunt and five other nuns a decade open spots on the creek, flushing as and your blisters fire, then fade. ago. Our journey was over. we got closer. We lost the main trail to the I'm very thankful for these part- Found a snowmachine track at McCarthy Road for awhile and con- ners, who helped me finish much the toe of Nizina Glacier, and we sidered camping, but the boys let faster than I would have without were thrilled. Followed the track for out a whoop when they found a them. I felt lucky to be with them miles and miles southward, the river snowmachine highway a few miles every day. giving a path to McCarthy that from the road.We hit the road at made us felt as if every poleplant about headlamp time, and made it Editor's note: You can access was getting us closer. My repaired the six miles to John Adams' place Ned's blog and see his colorful pho- pole was so good I didn't notice any in a few hours, really stretching our- tos of the trip at drop in performance. selves. http://www.alaskatracks.com/281/ The half-dozen crossings of the We walked right into John's night-1-cooper-creek/. open Nizina always sound worse place, where I had stayed with my McCarthy Area Council meetings bring change and dignitaries

been sent out by email to the proposal was voted on and cCarthy: —On community and are also posted passed at the April meeting. at the mail shack. Possibilities of MMarch 27th the Mc- Not all MAC members agree Carthy Area Council streamlining the future money with the issue of receiving state (MAC) held its first meeting for dispersal process and a board to funds but, instead expressed the new year. Thirteen people filter the proposals were dis- concern over the potential harm gathered at the Tony Zak build- cussed. that the money could cause our ing in McCarthy to discuss a vari- One such proposal was sub- community. A couple even stated ety of issues. Nearly 24 folks mitted by Tamara Harper on be- they wished the money could be turned out for the April 24th half of radio station KCHU to returned. Another idea that was meeting which included park support moving the radio trans- discussed concerned the possi- service officials and two repre- mitter from its present site to a bility of a dividend for locals as sentatives of the National Parks new location by this fall. Accord- an easy way to use the money Conservation Association. ing to Tamara’s project descrip- —area residents could receive a tion, the new location could portion of the money much like At the March meeting, Presi- possibly be the Copper Valley the state dividend program. dent Jeremy Keller announced Telephone tower/generator site. Some stated this was a cop-out that MAC received a check for The estimated costs for the and that the benefits of commu- $35,000 from the state revenue change in location will be nity projects would outweigh the sharing program. Adding that $31,000. Upon completion of negative outcome. In the mean- with the remainder of last year’s the project, the new site will time, MAC members voted to state funds, gives MAC a surplus broadcast a clean FM signal place the state money into an of money allocated for communi- coming from the internet and it interest-bearing savings account. ty projects. Keller reminded will be on 24/7. All McCarthy- those in attendance that MAC is Since MAC still has $70,000 Kennicott residents who listen to accepting proposals for projects yet to be dispersed on proposed the public radio station will ben- that community members would community projects, a motion efit from the move. KCHU needs like funded. Proposals must be was made at the April meeting a 10% match to get a grant for written, submitted and discussed to decline next year’s state mon- the funding. Tamara’s proposal at any MAC meeting and can be ey for another $35,000. The mo- to MAC is that the council fund voted on by members at a follow- tion failed to pass. the 10% match of $3,100. This ing meeting. The guidelines have MAC’s membership did vote to lower its yearly dues from $25 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 15 per person to $5 for each voting posal, which caused a very resentatives to the MAC member. The motion passed negative reaction from most of meeting: Melissa Blair, Alaska unanimously. It was decided the affected communities, has Field Representative from An- there would be no refunds for been terminated at this time and chorage, and Lynn Grams, the those already paid up for 2009, she will pursue a regulation Wrangell Area Coordinator, from but it is hoped the decrease in change to deal with “technical Copper Center. Both ladies were membership fees will encourage legalities and conflicting regula- on hand to listen to and address others in the community to par- tions.” Other park service offi- any issues of concern by local ticipate in the council. cials who accompanied Supt. residents. One particular issue Superintendent Meg Jensen Jensen were: Eric Veach, Mark was a recent survey distributed opened up the April meeting Keogh, Rich Richotte and Norah by NPCA officials in Washington, with the subject of harvesting Martinez. DC. which drew negative reac- firewood on park lands. Accord- The National Parks Conserva- tions from folks in and out of ing to Jensen, the permit pro- tion Asso. sent two of their rep- Alaska. Changes to National Park Service Local Hiring Authority

makes two significant changes to nationwide rather than just in how the NPS will administer lo- an area close to a park. ANIL- cal hire, but it won't change the CA did not limit recruitment he National Park Ser- National Park Service's commit- to people who currently live Tvice has used the provi- ment to bringing the knowledge in or near a park unit. This sions of ANILCA 1308 and skills of people who have change will better implement to employ many Alaskans in a lived and worked in or near ANILCA's intent. The NPS is variety of jobs. This authority has parks into the workforce. The still working with the Depart- been used by every park in Alas- major changes which were part ment of the Interior and the Office of Personnel Manage- ka to hire both seasonal and per- of H.R. 146 are: manent employees. ANILCA did ment to reach a consistent People who are currently approach on how a person's not provide for the authority to · in permanent local hire posi- knowledge and expertise be used in Anchorage, Fairbanks tions will be converted into about a particular park area or Juneau, where much of the the competitive civil service will be factored into hiring permanent workforce is sta- ranks. What this means is decisions. Job postings for tioned. that they will be able to com- Denali National Park and Pre- Recently, the NPS Alaska-wide pete on a level playing field serve can be found at workforce totaled 666 employ- with other federal employees http://www.usajobs.opm.gov. ees. Of that, 180 employees were for jobs outside their local Type in “Denali National hired through ANILCA 1308. park. This provision will also Park, AK” in the search field. be retroactive, meaning past Even that number understates The NPS workforce this spring work under local hire will now the positive effect of local hire, and summer will reflect a transi- count as competitive service. as some employees began their tion period. Regardless of the hir- This benefits people now out- careers under local hire and have ing mechanism, the NPS in Alaska side the federal workforce been converted to the competi- continues to value the contribu- who may want to compete for tive civil service ranks. tions of local residents in helping a federal job. The legislation signed by the manage more than 54 million · Jobs advertised under lo- acres of parklands across Alaska. President on March 30, 2009 cal hire will now be advertised PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 Subsistence use added to Nabesna EIS The EIS came about as a result morning and she assured me that, ust as we were going to of a lawsuit from environmental “We want to preserve and enhance Jpress (April 29) we learned groups including the National Parks access in the park, not to stop it.” that just this morning a and Conservation Association. It “We want to ensure environ- notice was published in the Federal originally only addressed recreation- mentally sustainable access to the Register saying that the National al users of the trails, not subsis- park for everybody,” she said. Park Service (NPS) intends to ex- tence users. Meg also told me that com- pand the scope of the Environmen- The addition came about as a ments would be considered past the tal Impact Study (EIS) for the result of comments during the scop- June 29 deadline. We hope to have Nabesna District Off Road Vehicle ing process. Almost a third of the another story on this issue next (ORV) use to include ORV’s used 30 comments said that NPS should time. for subsistence purposes. The no- include subsistence use in the EIS. For more information go to tice also extends the scoping period I talked with Wrangell-St. Elias http://www.nps.gov/wrst/parkmgm for the EIS until June 29, 2009. Superintendent Meg Jensen this t/planning.htm Birth announcements celebrate life

ukeAllen Steadfast Sacramento, California. He was Mercy. Writes Grandma Bucking-

Jensen, son of Kurt born on March 19th at 8:17 am. ham: “Jeremiah and Mercy both and Lindsay Jensen, of Baby Jack weighed 8 lb. 12 oz. love their baby and want to hold McCarthy, made his and his proud grandparents are her.” grand entrance on April 17th at Eric and Joan Wasserman. The at and Amy Proden 3:55 pm. He weighed 8 lb. 8 oz. Wassermans lived in McCarthy in send their greetings to and was 22 ½" long and was born the ‘70's and still own and contin- their McCarthy area in Fairbanks, AK. Parents and son ue to visit their property on the friends by way of Tanza- are doing very well. Says father west side of the Kennicott River. nia, the Netherlands, Ethiopia, Kurt: “We are all healthy and hap- On April 2nd Grandma Joan Kenya, Alaska, California, Michi- py, but trying to catch up on our writes, “He (Jack) is already over gan and finally landing in Oregon, sleep!” 9 lbs. and we can’t wait to meet at long last. They are proud to an- The Jensen family expect to him in person.” nounce the birth of their son. Dy- lan Babchek Proden was born on return to the McCarthy area some Shanna welcomes her friends Friday, March 20, 2009 at 11:47 time within the next couple of to try her blog that records Jack’s am—just about 8 hours after the weeks. activities. You can find updated Spring Equinox (4:44 a.m). At Jim Kreblin of Long Lake is pictures of Jack and his parents at birth, he weighed in at 7 pounds, the grandfather of LukeAllen. http://www.babyzuspan.blogspot.c 9 ounces and stretches to 20 inch- Our congratulations to Kurt, om/ es long. Lindsay and “grandpa” and a uth-Anna Virtue was Amy and Dylan are both in heartfelt “welcome” to baby Luke- born to Joshua and great shape after delivery. “We Allen. Sharia Hale on April had just one little detour back to (Editor’s note: Although the 3rd at Palmer, Alaska. the hospital last week for the blue following families no longer call She weighed 7 lbs. 1 oz. light special treatment for Dylan's McCarthy area home, they still Many remember Joshua as one jaundice,” writes Pat. “He had a have friends, connections or prop- of the Pilgrim family boys who speedy recovery and was released erty in our town. We celebrate the lived in the McCarthy area for sev- 12 hours later. So far, he's proving births of Jack Owen Zuspan, eral years. Sharia is the daughter to be a sweet, sweet baby and we Ruth-Anna Virtue Hale and Dylan of Jim and Martha Buckingham of look forward to introducing him Babchek Proden.) Palmer. to you! We are very appreciative of ack Owen is the son of Ruth-Anna is the third child of all the support, kind words, gener- Jarrett and Shanna the Hales. They have a son named ous gifts, and name suggestions (Wasserman) Zuspan of Jeremiah and another daughter, we have received.” WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 17 Ivan R. Thorall

laska lost a beloved man's Association and a lifetime of life in Alaska as he lived it, Afriend and longtime member of the National Rifle including true stories of bygone resident on Jan. 13, Association. Ivan became a mem- territorial days. Living life fully 2009, with the passing of Ivan ber of the Fairbanks Carpenters until his last days, Ivan was an Robert Thorall in Anchorage at Union in 1947 and retired in example to all. the age of 95 years. 1978. He was active with Alaska He will be greatly missed by Ivan was born March 16, Fish and Game, serving on the his friends and family. However, 1913, in Mapleton, Ore. In Ore- Fairbanks Fish and Game Adviso- his spirit and Alaska legacy live gon, Ivan was in the Civilian ry Board and then was appointed on with each of those he Conservation Corps and worked to the Alaska Fish and Game touched. as a logger. He came to Alaska in Board from 1971-1976 under Ivan is survived by his neph- 1940, logging, trapping, mining Gov. Bill Egan. Ivan was then ew, Ken Thorall, Ken's wife, Jill and working construction. When elected chairman of the board by of Big Lake, and Ken's son, Pat World War II started, Ivan enlist- its members. Ivan was active and Thorall, Ivan's grand-niece, Ar- ed and worked on Ladd Field, influential in establishing the lene McKay; nephew, Dan Tho- now Fort Wainwright, as a staff Alaska resident dip net fishery in rall; niece, Catherine Deubell; sergeant. Ladd Field was respon- Chitina. Ivan also helped the Ke- Chuck and Patti Miller and sible for the hand-off of more nai dip-netters get started with Chuck's four children, Stacia, than 8,000 Lend Lease fighters their fishery. Kale, Leland, and Cecilia; Barba- and bombers to the Russians In recent years, Ivan made an ra Despain, Eric and Nancy Lars- during World War II. invaluable contribution to the en, and many other friends too After the war, Ivan proved up University of Alaska with his en- numerous to mention. on three homesteads, one on dowment of an archive of origi- A celebration of his life was Badger Road, another on the nal films documenting many planned for March 16, 2009, in upper Chena River and his last unique events in Alaska's history. Chisana. In early April, Ivan's was in Chisana, a settlement sit- This project gave evidence of his remains will be buried next to uated on the headwaters of the love of Alaska and his keen inter- his mother, Johanna Thorall; Tanana River, southeast of est in preserving its resources, father, Julius Thorall, and two Northway. Ivan surrounded him- especially its wildlife and remote brothers, Ken and Vernon in self with friends and family on wilderness. Deary, Idaho. Ivan also is prede- his property in Chisana. Ivan was just as vivacious ceased by his two sisters, Edna Ivan lived with various mem- during the last half of his life. He Beard and Verna Wright. bers of the Eugene V. Miller fam- quit smoking at 68, learned to Special mention should be ily in Fairbanks, when he was not fly when he was 76, bought two given to Dr. Quier and the staff at his homesteads or working. Cessnas, shot his last moose at at the Anchorage VA Clinic, the His last years were spent in the 88, flew his plane until he was 90 staff at Elmendorf Hospital and care of Chuck Miller of Anchor- and drove until he was 94. Connie Tapscott who brought age, who had become like a son Those closest to him will re- comfort to Ivan during his last to him. member his quiet and kind man- years and final days. Ivan was the first lifetime ner, generosity, impeccable member of Tanana Valley Sports- honesty, his wit and many stories PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 THE KATALLA HERALD Vol. 1. No. 39. Katalla, Alaska, Saturday, May 2, 1908. Price Ten Cents Published weekly by J. F. A. Strong

Idle Men Throng Cordova Railroad Laborers on Rations the afternoon. The day before yester- Seven hundred idle men throng Sub-contractors and station men day the crowd was a little bit ugly and the streets of Cordova and in their on the line of the Copper River & undertook to dictate, but the few com- idleness they have become more or less Northwestern railway, in the region pany men in camp after telling the turbulent, according to private advices beyond Abercrombie canyon, are short crowd just how matters stood, paid no received in this town from Deputy Mar- of provisions, and are giving their em- more attention to them; so yesterday shal Sam Brightwell, says the Valdez ployees but one meal a day. The snow and today they have been a little more Prospector. It appears that the railroad is so deep, however, that there is little meek. The man who was left in charge management is shipping more men to work for the men to do. It will be here started for headquarters this Cordova than there is work for and impossible to get in more food until morning to get a deputy marshal or be that many of these men lack sufficient the river opens. deputized himself. money to get out of town. Deputy Paul Luchinni, who reached Katal- “The men are decidedly in the Brightwell says that on the day he la this week from Cordova, says there wrong. Heney is not to blame because wrote the letter he arrested seven men, are between 1000 and 1500 men em- the season here is two weeks earlier and on the day before three. He asks in ployed on and about the railroad, than usual. If the young, able-bodied his letter that the recipient “tell the about 350 of these being at Abercrom- men would make a thirty-mile trip they boys for God’s sake, to stay away from bie canyon, where a bridge is being could get plenty of work and grub, and here.” built. Considerable difficulty has been then the old men and sick could make MAY 1 experienced in sinking caissons, on out all right.” Local and Personal account of big boulders being encoun- MAY 22 tered while sinking. An 1800-foot aeri- The snow is disappearing rapidly, News Notes of Alaska al tramway is used to deliver material the trees are putting forth their tender Thomas V. Smith, better known as at the bridge site. buds; grasses are springing, and the Middleton Island Smith, was in Valdez crocus and snowdrops are showing Good progress is being made in recently on his annual visit. Smith de- their delicate faces; the raven has the construction of bridges at the low- rives his nickname from Middleton Is- ceased his croaking, and a few stray er crossing, where the steel is being land of which he is the sole occupant, redbreasts pipe their early morning placed in position. Trains are being and where he raises potatoes and blue tremolos; wild fowl in large numbers run to mile 49. L. J. Caswell, formerly foxes. Forty-six blue fox skins, which he are returning to their northern haunts, of Katalla, is now resident engineer at sold for $1200, were the result of this and the old reliable sea gulls are seek- Cordova. Business in the town is ex- season's harvest. ing their nesting places on near-by ceedingly quiet. Local and Personal The Herald is in receipt of a letter islands and headlands; and, cheerful The Hinchinbook lighthouse, upon from W. A. Thompson, who was at yet defiant, sounds the pibroch of the which work has already started, will be Tasnuna camp, which explains fully the barnyard chanticleer —spring “has built of concrete. come.” trouble. The letter is dated May 5, and Gull, sea pigeon, and other wild- MAY 8 is as follows: "the last teams came up on the 29th of April. As the trail was fowl eggs are becoming plentiful on Copper on Rampage very soft and the river open in a num- the adjacent islands and headlands. Much Delay to Railroad ber of places, when the teams reached Katalla offers a good opportunity Construction Tasnuna they had only half the loads for a small drug store and up-to-date According to passengers on the they started with. Then there was a news stand. The right man would soon Portland which was in port Thursday how-do-you-do between 700 and 800 have a profitable and growing business. the line of the Copper River railway has men in camp and only ten days sup- R. M. Straus the Kanak island been flooded, a lot of trestle has been plies. About 400 men were wise rancher, is planting heavy crops this washed out; two locomotives are dead enough to pull out for the next camp spring —especially alfalfa —in which on the track in 8 feet of water, and it below, 32 miles, and the rest decided he is being assisted by Heine Esta- is said that it will take six weeks yet to to stick it out. They were immediately brook. They are due in town for a well- put the road in as good shape as it was put on rations, a sandwich and cup of earned rest at any time. last fall. coffee for breakfast and a light meal in

Excerpted from The Katalla Herald newspaper, May & June, 1908 editions. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 19

A. B. Hunt is in town from the year there were 53 births and 18 pit, where steam shovels are operated Hunt coal mine, Carbon mountain. deaths. on a large scale, manned by 250 men. The air shaft which is being sunk, is Nathan H. Meyer and Charles The machinery here loads 22 cars in 40 now down sixty feet, and it will soon be Boyle, employed as carpenters on the minutes, and a record has been made completed. It is now in solid coal. Mr. construction of river boats at Aber- of 22 cars in 15 minutes. Hunt came down to meet a number of crombie canyon, were killed by a snow- There are two crossings after leav- coal miners who are on the Bertha, and slide on May 27. The bodies were ing Flag Point, Nos. 27 and 28 mile take them up to the mine. Paul recovered. posts. A steel bridge is also being con- Luchinni will also return with him. JUNE 19 structed to replace the second cross- MAY 29 YAKATAGA BEACH STILL A ing. When Patents are Issued PRODUCER The next station above 42 is Gla- cier, where the two big icebergs are on A Katalla man who recently had a Yakataga beach still continues to display. The first glacier one comes to talk with Chief Engineer Hawkins at produce the yellow metal, although is Childs' glacier, erroneously called Cordova, says that he gathered from this season has been far from favor- Miles, which is three miles across the the conversation that there would be able, owing to heavy storms which cov- face. Half a mile farther around a sharp no railroad building this year to the ered the paystreaks deep with fine gray turn in the river, is Miles glacier, which coal fields by the Copper river people. sand, in some places. "We could be ready to begin work on drops into a deep lake of dead water. Matt Baker, the well known miner the coal road in fifteen minutes, if the At Glacier there are 240 men at of Yakataga, came up this week from patents to the coal claims were forth- work. One of the largest steel bridges the beach. He has had fair success coming," Mr. Hawkins is reported as in the world is being built at this point, himself, this spring, but unfortunately saying. which will consist of two caissons and this has not been the case with all. two abutments. The men are now And there the matter stands, and Marvitz, Eberly & Co's hydraulic plant working on one caisson, gaining depth there it will remain until the govern- is at work on White river. There are very rapidly. The pressure is six pounds ment decides that in the interests of about 35 men in that section. Provi- to the square inch, having doubled the public welfare, the patents should sions are scarce, but the arrival there during the past week. Mr. Carr, a Star issue. this week of a quantity for the Pacific representative, was in the caisson a JUNE 5 Coal & Oil company, will help out until short time, escorted by J. W. McCord, more can be taken down. Trains to Miles Glacier better known as the Copper River C. Nelson of the Brewery saloon Mr. Baker is accompanied by his Scout. wife and child. Mrs. Baker's health is who returned this week from a short A quarter of a mile from Glacier is not good, and she will remain here so visit in Cordova, says that it is a good Camp 49, where 250 men are working. as to obtain medical treatment. Mr. substantial looking town, and is grow- Two days ago the ferry boat was Baker will return to Yakataga on the ing steadily. Mr. Nelson states that P. launched, which will tow a scow over Corsair with a cargo of supplies, as D. Burke who had just arrived at Cor- the river with cars until the steel soon as the weather will permit. dova from up the Copper river, told bridge is completed. Just across the him that the railroad company is now RAILROAD PROGRESS river is old Camp 18, now 52. This is on running trains to Miles glacier, and Construction Work Along The M. J. Heney's division, which begins at have a ferry boat and barge there, Copper the river. There are about 1,000 men which carries four cars across the lake, A resume of the work under way on strung out from Copper river to and then the train runs from there to Steamboat Landing, above the rapids, Steamboat Landing at the upper end the line of the Copper River & North- western railway is contained in a re- a distance of six miles, busy with track of Abercrombie canyon. Deyo, the sur- work. Messrs. Heney and Archie W. veyor, is up Copper river with 50 men cent issue of the Cordova Star, and is as follows: Shiels are now at Steamboat landing cutting a trail to connect the railroad superintending operations. with the Fairbanks trail, so that travel At Alganik 30 men are employed There are 500 rock men between from the interior next winter will pass in breaking rock. Six miles farther is Tasnuna, 30 miles north of Steamboat through Cordova. Flag point, the first crossing over the Landing, and Cascade creek, 45 miles, JUNE 12 Copper river. There are about 170 men at work at this station. Several piledriv- and Teikel river, 65 miles, and Thun- News Notes of Alaska ers are working, and the concrete piers der creek, 75 miles from Steamboat The Alaska Road Commission will are almost finished for the big steel Landing. The track extends to two construct a trail from a favorable point bridge. The present wooden bridge is miles this side of Steamboat Landing on the Valdez trail to a point near the half a mile long, and the steel bridge at the present time. mouth of the Chittina river. will be a little longer. Two steamboats are operating on Among the natives, from Taral to The next station is No. 33, and the river, the Chittina and the Little Mantasta in the Copper river country, here nearly 200 men are employed on Willie. numbering approximately 150, last track work. No. 42 camp is the gravel JUNE 26 PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 The brief life and times of snowshoe hares

them again and again. Once a ing with a satellite collar had ere on this March transmitter was recovered from intersected the path of a hare, Hmorning, in the for- high in a spruce tree where a the collar of which then started ested floodplain of goshawk carried its meal. Using beeping rapidly. the Tanana River, snow is falling a receiver and all of those trans- “Our collared lynx ate our with vigor. Even the paddle-feet mitters, Kielland is trying to find collared hare,” Kielland said. of snowshoe hares press several out the fate of the average hare. Why study hares? The little inches into the new fluff. He wants to answer a simple but creatures with the boom-and- Knut Kielland wears metal- elusive question: how long does a bust cycles (which are currently frame snowshoes as he zigzags boreal forest hare live in Alaska, near a peak in the Tanana valley) through alders and willows near and how does a population of are food for just about every the frozen river. He stops when hares fluctuate? predator out there, from owls to he sees a snowshoe hare, right “(With methods such as ear lynx to coyotes to red squirrels, where he expects it—inside a tags), you don’t know whether which hit the hares surprisingly wire-screen metal box. the hares dispersed out of your hard just after young (leverets) The hare, which ventured area or died,” he said. “This is an are born, researchers in the Yu- into the live trap in pursuit of attempt to really find out what kon found. alfalfa chunks and a carrot, happens to them.” Hares produce lots of off- wears a collar with a tiny trans- Biologists think hares proba- spring, dropping litters of as mitter the size of a triple-A bat- bly live for about a year, with many as five leverets up to three tery. Kielland, an ecologist at old-timers reaching three or times each summer. That’s a the University of Alaska Fair- four, but there are few ways to potential 15 little hares from banks, and his colleague Karl judge that. Kielland’s study, one female, but hares disappear Olson have captured this animal which is the extension of a proj- fast under pressure from preda- before. ect he’s been working on in his tors and from starvation. Seven Kielland coaxes the hare in- backyard of the Tanana River for out of ten hares collared in June to a game bag, then weighs the a decade, should provide some 2008 are no longer alive. three-pound, snow-white crea- answers. “They do bite the bullet in ture, checks numbers on its ear The transmitters now car- winter,” Kielland said. tags, and releases it into the for- ried by about 30 hares in the In a patch of the Interior he est. The hare then bounces away, Bonanza Creek Experimental has studied, trapped, and hunted seeming to disappear into the Forest emit a steady beep when in for many years, Kielland moni- winter world. But Kielland can hares are on the move. When tors the hares each year for in- find it anytime he wants, using a one stops moving for about six tense four-day periods in June, binocular-size radio receiver and hours, which means it’s probably August, November, and March to a handheld antenna that resem- dead, the beep rate doubles. learn more about one of the bles a TV antenna. Then, Kielland and Olson turn most important little creatures Kielland and Olson have fit- on the receiver, unfold the an- out there, a substantial meal for ted 50 transmitters onto the tenna, and go on a search for the carnivores in the hungry country necks of hares and often recover collar. Not long ago, they found of the boreal forest. that a lynx they had been track- This column is provided as a public service by the Geophysical Institute, University of Alaska Fairbanks, in cooperation with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell is a science writer at the institute. He can be reached by email at [email protected]. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 21 DVD review—Alaska Aurora Hunting

Lights move and groove across the Alaska Aurora Hunting’s run- odd and Shay Salat sur- Alaskan sky beats (in my opinion) ning time is approximately 48 min- Tprised Rick and I by send- staying up to all hours of the night utes. Its retail price is $19.95 plus ing us their new to hunt these illusive Aurora Borea- $2 shipping. You can purchase your release—Alaska Aurora Hunting— lis! copy on Todd and Shay’s web site at: their first video project! “It was a Todd and Shay are pioneering www.AuroraHunter.com blast,” writes Todd, “putting the Auroras in Motion photography. Congratulations, Todd and DVD together with a huge learning Through this awesome DVD you can Shay, on a fine production! I recom- curve...and, therefore, it is the most join the Salats on their Aurora Hunt mend this DVD to those who find rewarding photographic endeavor of to the top of Alaska. Journey up the the Northern Lights a special treat my life!” Dalton Highway (Haul Road) and whenever you are at the right place Rick and I eagerly slipped the experience what it takes to get the at the right time to see them for tape into the player and did our own shot! You can even learn a few yourselves. Alaska Aurora Hunting hunting with Todd and Shay. To tell tricks-of-the-trade on how to predict would also make an excellent gift you the truth, curled up in your the aurora, how the aurora form and for friends who desire to see and comfortable, warm cabin or home when and where to see them. learn what these special lights are while witnessing how the Northern all about. Firewise landscaping

Landscaping in Alaska not only As fuels continue to build and orrison Construction adds beauty and value to a home, the climate progressively becomes Mlocally owned and oper- but can also be the difference in a warmer the threat of catastrophic ated specialty contrac- close call and complete ruin in the wildfire in the Copper River Basin tors, known for their expertise in wake of a raging wildfire. Wildfire is increases. The last 12 months have building incredibly beautiful log an important part of nature and is seen the average precipitation levels homes, have now added Firewise necessary for much of Alaska's eco in Chitina of only 4.59 inches, when landscaping to the list of quality systems. In the Copper River Basin, they are normally between 7 and 9. services they provide to their cli- however, invasive insects such as the Protection from wildfire comes ents. Carrie Hale will be joining the Alaskan Spruce Bark Beetle and the in the form of prevention and miti- crew as landscape foreman. She has Spruce Bud Worm have defoliated gation. Programs such as Firewise spent the last six years in the fire much of the conifer stands and left have been developed to assist home service as a volunteer fire fighter. a volatile path of highly flammable owners and community groups in She is currently the Strelna volun- slash in their wake, adding fuels to reducing the loss of lives and prop- teer fire chief. Carrie has been an an area that has not seen a large erty. Firewise provides tips for build- Emergency Fire Fighter through burn since 1927. ing and maintaining your home. Alaska Division of Forestry since In 1915 the Sourdough Hill Fire Firewise strongly recommends the 2005, and she spent two years as burned 384,000 acres. It burned building of defensible space around Natural Resource Director for the from the Chitina to the Kennicott your home. You can visit them on- Chitina Traditional Indian Village River and from the Chitina River to line at http://www.firewise.org. Council. She was also project man- the mountains north. 1915 saw an- You can contact Morrison Con- ager of the Chitina Hazardous Fuels other massive fire in the Kennicott struction at: Reduction crew, and she brings in- area, burning an additional 64,000 Office Phone: (907) 554-4456 valuable knowledge and experience. acres. In 1927 the Willow Creek Email: She will do an assessment with you Fire burned 128,000 acres. All [email protected] giving recommendations and then three of these massive fires were et give you a determination for work started by humans; in fact 88% of all you want done. fires in the Copper River Basin are Mail: PO Box 38 Chitina AK human caused. 99566 PAGE 22 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION WHO WILL BE NEGATIVELY IM- the economy is in dire straits – it (Continued from page 35) PACTED seems like a bad time to limit ac- We commonly guide groups of cess for teenage and family groups. fatality. This study indicates that a 2-5 families vacationing together The economic impact for SEAG group of two is 60 times more likely that would exceed the new 12 per- may be severe, but certainly doesn’t to have a bear encounter than a son limit. Typically, the parents stop at us. Although a small per- group of ten (1). have been friends for years, and the centage of our clients, economies of A possible counterpoint is that trip is their way of keeping close, scale allow these groups to be over larger groups need more supervi- doing what they love, and introduc- 21% of our profit in our best years. sion, but does this regulation speak ing their children to the wilderness. And they do not limit their activities to this point? To make an educa- Full of laughter and warm emotions, to SEAG – other services, lodging, tional trip for teens economically these trips are fun and rewarding. food and drink sales are lost as well. feasible, a certain number of paying Because the purpose is for families Furthermore, we’ve been building participants are required to keep it to spend time together, they are not infrastructure and hiring locals to affordable for average families. With interested in breaking into smaller do so – planning to pay it all off over a group that required 10 partici- groups, so this new rule may stymie ten years. Knowing that our income pants to be economical, we would these wonderful family outings. may be reduced by this regulation, assign 3 guides – but a group size Teen adventure trips are also we’ve cancelled two building proj- limit of 12 encourages us to mini- common and possibly affected. ects, and that is more money lost to mize guides, so this provision may Groups of 12-16 teenagers travel the community. With the current encourage less supervision, which the state with 2-3 adult leaders, economy, we’re concerned about could be more dangerous than the learning about the environment, the financial future. bears. doing community service projects, WHAT CAN BE DONE Entering wilderness has a vari- and enjoying outdoor activities. SEAG has spent the winter re- ety of risks and many unpredictable They are enthusiastic, well man- searching better bear deterrents, factors. In 2007, our guides and cli- nered, and often express it’s “the purchasing more bear resistant con- ents combined spent 1,011 days in summer of their life.” Team build- tainers and formalizing our bear the backcountry. This exposure to ing and shared experiences are a training protocols. We are invested the inherent risks of wilderness focus, so these groups are also not in our clients, the community and guarantees that we will have inju- interested in dividing up. Consider- the park, so it is paramount we ries, bear encounters and other mis- ing the downward trend in young manage this issue so that no one haps. Since human beings are the people visiting national parks, we gets hurt, bears don’t get food, and subjects of regulation, it seems rea- feel it’s important to introduce everyone can enjoy Donoho Basin. sonable to allow for human error. If youth to wild and beautiful places, Human impacts aside, if the we restrict action every time that an for their personal enrichment as overall concern is for the bears, accident occurs or a mistake is well as tangible reasons to value the then the NPS could have more im- made, there would be very limited park. pact by helping the community with access to the park. Other larger groups include Boy bear issues in town. According to a It is possible to be granted an Scouts, Sierra Clubbers, a group of study supported by the NPS, local exception to this regulation for a older gentlemen that love backpack- residents are 18 times more likely special case, and the NPS is consid- ing but needed extra guides to help than visitors to have a bear encoun- ering our request. We do appreciate carry the weight, as well as a group ter, due to improper storage of gar- of five couples (+3 guides) that cel- that, but imagine how difficult plan- bage (3). ning will be based on yearly excep- ebrated their 50th birthdays with a More information needs to be tions that take weeks or months for trip to WSENP. gathered, as it seems that one rea- approval or disapproval. Although The above groups may not con- son for this provision may be a lack current NPS management may be sider a trip to WSENP without ac- of data. SEAG reports all bear en- willing to grant an exception, there cess to Donoho, as few can afford counters, but many do not. We hear is no guarantee that future NPS bush flights and even fewer would stories from campers each year of managers will. be willing to sleep on glacier ice for bears getting food on Donoho, in- From every angle, there seems 5 days. We feel the terrain, with its cluding one eating dinner right out to be no reasonable argument for glacial moraine campsites, is suited of their pot! Despite our encourage- this regulation. Now let’s consider for larger groups. Considering over- ment to do so, campers rarely re- who’s affected by it. all national park visitation has been port incidents to NPS. A recent declining for over 20 years (2), and study in Yosemite NP (a much more WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 23 heavily patrolled park) determined CONCLUSION ing MAC meetings take time, they park rangers learn of only 1 in 4 NPS rules and regulations need are vital to maintaining these free- bear incidents that occur in the to be rational, and reasonable con- doms. Whether it’s the bear issue Yosemite wilderness (4). Most likely, cerns of individuals and businesses on Donoho, firewood permits, or bear incidents reported to NPS are a should be considered and answered. subsistence hunting concerns – we fraction of actual incidents, and NPS should seek data from a variety must speak out as one in defense of since SEAG reports all incidents, we of sources prior to implementing freedom and reasonable regulation. are undoubtedly a high percentage regulation, carefully considering the Endnotes of those reported. The NPS needs to impact on individuals, businesses, 1. Tom Smith, Ph.D. and Steven compile comprehensive, relevant the park and the community. We Herrero, Ph.D., “A Century of Bear- data to understand the issue, and understand that the NPS felt pres- Human Conflict in Alaska: Analyses not penalize those reporting, if they sure to enact this regulation, but and Implications”: hope to craft reasonable regulation. we’re hopeful that the NPS will re- http://www.absc.usgs.gov/research/ Good information and careful consider it, gather necessary data, brownbears/attacks/bear- consideration are required to come and engage the community to come human_conflicts.htm to reasonable, informed conclu- up with logical solutions. 2. See “Summary Report – Mul- sions. NPS should be cautious of We also hope that anyone in- tiple Years”: loud or dramatic politics that en- vested in the community will partic- http://www.nature.nps.gov/stats/pa courage rash decisions, and be sure ipate in the discussion, as we all rk.cfm to examine all options and their have a stake in rational regulation. 3. James Wilder, “Human-Bear consequences. Can aggressive bears Saying “not my problem” leads to Conflicts in the Kennecott Valley”: be relocated? We need to research potentially unreasonable regulation http://www.nps.gov/wrst/naturescie possibilities and consider logistics. anytime that just a few people are nce/human-bear-conflicts-in-the- Should aggressive bears be shot? We affected, persistently eroding the kennecott-valley.htm need game officials or biologists to freedoms which make McCarthy- 4. Kathryn E. McCurdy, “Beliefs discuss black bear population im- Kennecott such a special place. As About Bear Resistant Food Canister pact, and a park ranger or subsis- those freedoms disappear, so do the Use Among Wilderness Users In tence hunter to let us know what’s independent people drawn to that Yosemite National Park,” December possible. Do we close Donoho to freedom. It is this independent self- 2006 camping? We need input from visi- sufficiency that is the true spirit of tors, guides, businesses, NPS and this community. Although writing community members. to government officials and attend- Copper Valley Telephone to vote on Regulatory exemption

tory Commission of Alaska within If CVTC’s deregulation election opper Valley Telephone 30 days. succeeds, CVTC would continue to CCooperative, Inc. (CVTC) A common carrier designated as receive federal high cost support, will conduct an election an eligible telecommunications car- but would file an annual self certifi- by mail ballot to decide the ques- rier (ETC) is eligible to receive uni- cation regarding use of funds with tion of whether they should be ex- versal service support in accordance the Federal Communications Com- empt from the Regulatory throughout service area for which mission, and would no longer be Commission of Alaska. the designation is received. CVTC required to file information annually Public meetings to discuss this was granted ETC status in 1997. with the RCA regarding use of question will be held in Glennallen The FCC estimated that CVTC funds. The RCA would also no lon- on May 5 and Valdez on May 7. would receive about $10.9 M in high ger regulate CVTC’s rates, including whether CVTC’s rates were reason- Ballots will be mailed to each cost universal service funding in ably set in light of federal universal eligible CVTC member about June 2008. Typically, this funding is service funds. 1, and must be sent to the Regula- used to offset the costs of local tele- phone service and to promote in- vestment in infrastructure. PAGE 24 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 Access issue divides neighbors

the developers would deal with the were drawn the easiest way, by people t seems access issues have annual high-water on the Kennicott who do not live here and likely had no Iplagued the McCarthy area which could make the road impassible interest whatever in doing so, and had for the past decade or so. during high-water events if it stays on no thought whatever in the actual lay Most of the disputes have been be- the section lines, but in any case an of the land. additional half-mile would be added to tween the National Park Service and “Unfortunately for platting, the the distance required to traverse the local residents. This one is different. area is actually in a shelf of land route. squeezed between an inhospitable A proposal to reroute the long- There have been several prior in- rocky, shifting river, and a steep hill- established subdivision road that pro- stances where absentee landowners side. The ‘lay’ of this strip of pleasant vides access to many homes and cab- moved the road to the section line homestead spots is actually from ins on the “west-side” of the adjacent to their property. This al- north-east to south-west; almost at Kennicott River has caused unease lowed them to subdivide and sell the maximum variance with the and division among local residents much smaller lots. Many users grum- thoughtless city drawn plat lines. To who use the road on a daily basis. bled when the existing route was realign the roads with these plats, re- Some folks are saying they will only blocked, but none took action. Howev- sults in a zig-zag road, in which all help to maintain the existing route, er, this time may be different. None roads go the wrong way.” others say no, only the new one if it is of the prior reroutes have been as ex- built. Edwards was also the first to tensive as this one, and it appears point out that the new route would be Al Clayton, who recently pur- that some current users are not going considerably longer than the old one. chased the old Iverson property, told to allow the old route to be closed as “And this, each and every single me that he has agreed to be the it is a valid easement by prescription. spokesman for the project which time one drives, rides or walks on it, Several petitions have been circu- would be jointly carried out by he and for the rest of our lives,” he says. lating opposing the realignment. Ken Rowland, who purchased the ad- Also impacted are John and Bar- joining homestead. Last fall he circu- Jim Edwards has probably used bara Rice and the Satterfields, who lated a letter stating his intention to the road longer than anyone currently built their retirement homes near “realign” the road. living. He had been living in his house what is now a seldom-used easement, on the west side of the Kennicott Riv- It was not clear until this spring but would become the main traveled er for several years when Bonnie and I that the “realignment” would add an route if the road is moved. “We and moved here in 1978. additional 33% to the length of the the Rices have much to lose by this road. Where the current road mean- “On the surface, it would seem proposal, not only from a loss of priva- ders diagonally for approximately 1.5 that the purpose of the realignment is cy, but also by increased fire danger miles, the proposed route would run to follow the platted lines between the as the traffic will be rerouted through straight south to the Kennicott River parcels of land,” says Edwards. “I sug- a more hazardous fire area because of flood plain before turning 90 degrees gest we realize that these plats were all the beetle-kill timber,” says Lindee due west before connecting to the laid out on north-south, east-west as Satterfield. existing road again. It is not clear how is common in larger cities, and they Grant-in-aid applications available for museums

nizations to improve their services. paid, who devotes time to the he Alaska State Museum The museum assistance grants pro- acquisition, care and exhibition of Thas announced that appli- mote professional museum stan- its collection. cation forms are available dards and practices in the state. Application forms are available to Alaska museums and historical To apply, a museum must be from the Alaska State Museum, 395 societies for the state's Grant-in-Aid open to the general public on a reg- Whittier St., Juneau, AK 99801. program. The mailing deadline for ularly scheduled basis for at least They may also be downloaded from applications is June 1. 120 days a year and be an orga- the Museum's web site at: Museum grants are awarded on nized, non-profit institution or local www.museums.state.ak.us , or call a competitive basis to assist eligible government entity. It must also em- (888) 913-6873. museums and museum-related orga- ploy at least one person, paid or un- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 25 MKCC—what’s in a name?

Paul warned against in Galations We believe the Bible is the in- here is a Chinese Proverb 5:15. spired Word of God and that salva- Tthat says, “The beginning You say, “Pastor Rick, I don’t tion is by grace though faith, that it of wisdom is to call things have a denomination. I don’t even is the gift of God and not of works, by their right names.” know if I am a Christian or not.” lest any man should boast. The McCarthy-Kennicott Com- You, of all people, are most wel- (Ephesians 2:8) munity Church (MKCC). What does come and will be treated with re- We believe that God is alive and that mean? Is it a building? Is it spect and shown the love of the well on planet earth and is ever people? If so, what people? Lord. ready and willing to meet your Today if you look up the word We have a very simple church needs. I invite you to come, “taste church in a modern Webster’s dic- doctrine: Good God, bad devil. and see that the Lord is Good.” tionary you will see a primary defini- Jesus exemplified this simple tion as a building for public and doctrine and taught it “A thief is especially Christian worship. Most only there to steal and kill and de- people today when they think of stroy. I came so they can have real The church likely think of a building. and eternal life, more and better The MKCC church building is locat- life than they ever dreamed of.” ed on the McCarthy Road, just past John 10:10, Message Bible Church the foot-bridge on what we often Jesus is perfect doctrine. He on refer to as the island. told Phillip, “He who has seen Me the The MKCC building is owned by has seen the Father,” and “The the MKCC corporation, a not-for- Words that I speak to you I do not profit 501(c)(3). The corporation speak of Myself, but the Father Island has a board of directors who are who dwells in Me, He does the tasked with making decisions about works.” the use of the building, finances and We have this account of Jesus other secular issues. ministry in the book of Acts: “You What’s missing here? The word church in the New know that God anointed Jesus Only ! Testament certainly did not mean a from Nazareth with the Holy Spirit the Goodness corporation, and rarely if ever and with power. Jesus went every- ng of of G lli od meant a building. Rather, it referred where and did good things, such as Te to a group of people. When Jesus healing everyone who was under told Peter that He would build His the devil's power. Jesus did these church on a rock, nobody present things because God was with him.” Sunday 10 a.m. thought He meant a physical build- Acts 10:38 God’s Word transla- B there or B square! ing on a physical rock. tion. MKCC the group of people is an The second part of our doc- “inter-denominational” church. This trine is: God is smarter than we means that people of all denomina- are. tions are welcome to come and What do I mean by that? Sim- gather together for the purpose of ply that God’s Word is final au- Romans 8:1 Message “encouraging each other to show thority. Not a denomination. Not a love and to do good things” as in- creed, philosophy or theologian’s McCarthy Kennicott Community Church structed in Hebrews 10:25. They are ideas. not welcome to come and “bite and devour one another,” as the Apostle

CLASSIFIED 16x20, 3-sided log cabin kits. Add sweat, doors, windows and some materials, for a cozy home! $11.5K each. E-mail for materials list. Located in McCarthy. (907) 782-3730 or [email protected] PAGE 26 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 Scheduled Air Service from Anchorage to McCarthy with stopover in Gulkana!

Now you can leave Anchorage at 8:30 on Wednesday or Friday morning and arrive in Gulkana at 9:45, McCarthy at 11:00. Or, you can leave McCarthy at 11:15 and be back in Anchorage by 2:00pm the same day! (Leaves Gulkana at 12:45) This service is year around.

www.coppervalleyair.com Ellis Air Taxi, Inc. DBA Copper Valley Air Service, LLC Phone 822-4200 RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEPARTURES, ARRIVALS, CONNECTIONS. Ellis Air will not be responsible for damages resulting from the failure of flights to depart 866-570-4200 or arrive at times stated in this timetable, nor for errors herein, nor for failure to make connections Or toll-free to other airlines or of this company. Schedules are subject to change without notice. Schedules shown are based on expected flying times. Because weather and other factors may affect operat- Gulkana Airfield Box 234, Glennallen, AK 99588 ing conditions, departures and arrivals cannot be guaranteed.

HOMESTEAD SUPPLY Lumber, building materials and hardware delivered to the McCarthy area at Anchorage prices! Give us a call or come in and browse our new ACE Hardware store. NEW! Greenhouse and potting supplies!

907-822-3987 or FAX 822-5209

Mile 115.5 Richardson Highway (Box 49) Glennallen WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 27

We’ve Been A Part

Of The Local Wells Fargo was one of the Scenery Since first companies to do busi- ness around here. So, you ® might say we’ve grown up 1852 together. Thanks for all your support over the years. Glennallen Team

© 2008 Wells Fargo Bank, N.A. All rights reserved. Member FDIC. AS-3216 9551 wellsfargo.com Morrison Construction Greetings for a Happy and Prosperous 2009!

2009 marks the tenth year of our business as Morrison Construction, building and landscaping for McCarthy Road residents such as yourselves. We sincerely want to thank you for your business in the past! We couldn't have done it without you! And we certainly look forward to fulfilling any building needs you may have in the future.

Photo by: Peggy Morsch And..... for an update on the newest Carole & Daniel—Office services we are offering in landscaping, 907-554-4456 including a Firewise Assessment Carrie—Landscaping Package, visit our new website www.morrisonconstructionak.com. Or 907-554-1057 give Carrie a call at 907-554-1057. PO Box 38 As always, Chitina, AK Daniel and Carole Morrison 99566 and Family Providing quality work, family style! PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

The New Caribou Hotel Getting tired? Stop at the Caribou Hotel! The coffee pot’s always on!

Warm atmosphere — Hot Tubs — Satellite TV Full Menu Restaurant

Mile 187 Glenn Hwy. 822-3302 Glennallen, AK

Residential & Commercial Heating Oil Gasoline Diesel Fuel AvGas and Jet Fuel Chevron Lube Oils and Greases Tanks/Accessories

Mile 188.5 Glenn Highway Box 276 Glennallen, AK 99588 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 29

Your gateway to adventure...

Explore the possibilities at www.mccarthylodge.com 1-907- 554 4402

of McCarthy

formerly w Private cabins for 2 to 4. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. Enjoy Alaskan bush living. w Quiet, Peaceful location away from the crowds! Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm PAGE 30 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

“Do not suffer yourselves to be wheedled COPPER RIVER out of your liberty by any pretenses of politeness, delicacy or decency. RECORD These, as they are often used, are but three names for Community Newspaper hypocrisy, chicanery, and cowardice.” for the Copper Valley Subscribe * Advertise * Contribute! ~ John Adams 1789 P.O. Box 277 Glennallen, AK 99588 MOTHER LODE COPPER MINES COMPANY OF ALASKA LLC 907-822-3727 phone and fax 201 Barrow Street #1 • Anchorage, AK 99501 [email protected] Wrangell St. stress-free Elias News holiday Shopping This season, get fabulous gifts for everyone on Subscriptions $14/year your list...all from the comfort of your home. Just call me Online-only $11/year or visit my Web site. You’ll find pampering products, fragrances and more at your convenience! PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588 Tammy Rowland Independent Beauty Consultant 907-554-4454 www.marykay.com/trowland1 (907) 581-5881

Valdez Realty Sourdough Drilling “The Dirt Merchant” Cor. EGAN & HAZLET Water Wells WALTER M. WOOD - BROKER P.O. BOX 868 Paul Barr (907)835-2408 VALDEZ, AK 99686 [email protected] Sourdough Drilling PO Box 721 Invest in your own recreation lot at Mi. 27 McCarthy Hwy. 23 lots available in accessible small & large Soldotna, AK 99669 parcels at Chokosna River Tracts. 907-262-5494 or cell 907-398-7898 Broker is Owner.

www.PropertyRightsResearch.org Julie Smithson, Researcher 213 Thorn Locust Lane London, Ohio 43140-8844 [email protected] 740-857-1239 (voice/no fax) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 31

ROWCON SERVICES Keith Rowland, Owner GENERAL CONTRACTOR Lifetime Alaskan McCarthy, Alaska 554-4498 Excavation & Gravel Products DEC-approved septics

¯ Over the river and ¯ through the woods, a-freighting we will go. Lowboy & Heavy Freight Service

McCarthy WRANGELL MOUNTAIN TECHNICAL SERVICES Bed & Breakfast Providing Civil Engineering and Land Survey Services Cozy, quiet cabins, all with private bathrooms & showers. Pull into our conveniently located homestead on the Serving the Copper Basin and throughout Alaska McCarthy Road, ½ mile from the Kennicott River footbridge. On-Site Water and Wastewater Designs Engineering Consultation Continental breakfast & fresh coffee Residential Home Inspections Private baths Construction Inspection and Management Gazebo kitchen As-built Surveys, Boundary Surveys, Sub- Picnic area divisions, Construction Surveys · Tire repair ALLEN MINISH, PE PLS [email protected] Mile 32.1 Edgerton Hwy PO Box MXY Glennallen, AK 99588-8998 P. O. Box 118, Chitina, AK 99566 (907) 554-4433 907-823-2280 PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 Cooking with Peggy

alcohol in it and it is at least double (Mrs. W. L. Fursman) i everyone! As I sit here the strength of Vanilla Extract Grind up the tough part of raw Hwriting this month’s which does have alcohol in it. So for Razorback clams and season with page for you, I’m eating 1 part Essence, use 2 part Extract. salt, pepper and vinegar set in cold several slices of freshly baked Loaf Secondly, “one package of place. Make a sauce of tomato cat- Cake and drinking a mid-morning dates” in 1919 may be a little differ- sup, worchestershire and either to- cup of coffee. How good life is! Bon- ent than in 2009 so I chopped up basco or horseradish. Mix with nie contacted me the other day and and used 1 cup of dates. I used 2 ground clams just before serving. said that she had discovered some teaspoons of vanilla extract since I The fifth recipe is old files on her computer that con- didn’t have the vanilla essence and DIVINITY FUDGE tained some recipes for an issue of guessed at the amount. I used the Cordova Daily Herald of 1919. ground walnuts and baked it in 3 (Mrs. D. A. Mosser) In case you aren’t familiar with Cor- small loaf pans instead of 1 large Two and two-thirds cup of sug- dova, it is a small city near the and baked them at 350 degrees. I ar, 2-3 cups water, 2-3 cups white mouth of the Copper River nestled did it that way so I can eat one and Karo syrup, pinch of cream of tar- at the head of Orca inlet in the east freeze two! It was really very easy to tar. Boil together in an iron frying side of Prince William Sound. It is make and delicious. pan until it makes a long thread. also the home of the Merle K The second recipe is for Pour over the well beaten white of (Mudhole) Smith Airport! I can’t two eggs. Beat constantly with a APPLE SAUCE CAKE believe we have been going to Alas- large egg beater. Add a cup of nuts. ka for at least 15 years and have (Mrs. A. Cohen) (NOTE) If any of you try or have never been there. We will remedy One cup sugar, one tablespoon tried these recipes or know or knew that this summer. We’ll head over butter, one teaspoon cloves, one any of the women who contributed from Valdez by ferry in late June. teaspoon cinnamon, one-half tea- them I would love to hear from you. Now, back to recipes! These are spoon salt, a little nutmeg, one cup You can email me at Tested Recipes of Cordova Women- apple sauce, one teaspoon soda dis- [email protected]. taken from The Cordova Daily Her- solved in a little water, two cups Now I would like to share with ald, Saturday, March 1, 1919. I’m flour and one cup raisins. Cream you a recipe I found back in the late going to give them to you a little out butter and add sugar gradually. Dis- 90’s that normally I use as an appe- of the order that they appeared in solve the soda and add to the cup of tizer but during the summer when the newspaper and give you the one apple sauce. Add this to the sugar it’s hot or during the winter with I was eating this morning first. and butter. Then add the flour, sift- soup I often serve them but don’t cut ed with the spices, and the raisins. LOAF CAKE them as I would for the appetizer. Bake in a loaf for 45 minutes. I’m sorry I have no idea where I got (Mrs. Paul Bloedhorn) The third recipe is for the recipe but thanks to whoever cre- I’ll give it to you exactly as she NUT MACAROONS ated it. wrote it and then add a few tips of my own. (Mrs. W. W. C. Baldwin) SHRIMP OR CRAB BITES “Four eggs, one cup flour, one One cup walnuts, chopped fine, 1 cup butter cup sugar, one cup walnuts, one one half teaspoon salt, white of one 2 cups crab meat or cooked package dates. Beat the egg yolks egg beaten stiff, one cup brown sug- shrimp, minced and the whites, separately and then ar. Beat the white of the egg, add 1 tablespoon mayonnaise the sugar, then the chopped nuts, beat them both together. Add the 3-4 ounces sharp cheese spread salt, and drop with a teaspoon on sugar and beat again. Add vanilla ¼ teaspoon garlic powder essence to flavor. Add the flour buttered paper. Bake in a quick ov- Lemon pepper seasoning to gradually and then the nuts and en. This makes three dozen cookies. taste dates. Bake in moderate oven from (NOTE) I am not sure what a “quick 40-60 minutes.” oven” is but I would try it at 350 or Paprika for garnish 375 and watch them like a hawk! First of all I had no idea what Mix together. Spread on 8 Eng- Vanilla Essence was so “Googled” it The fourth recipe is lish Muffins. Bake at 400 degrees and discovered that it does not have CLAM COCKTAIL for 10 minutes , or 15 minutes if frozen. Cut each muffin into quar- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 33 ters to serve (as appetizers). Besides celebration. Of course, the book is Bake fish fillets at 375 degrees, 4 to the flavor, another reason I like filled with wonderful recipes but one 8 minutes, until nearly done. Re- these is because for a party I can submitted by Mary K. Mugavero move from oven and turn on broiler. make them ahead, freeze them on a caught my eye. It’s called Spoon onion mixture evenly over pan and then just put them in the BLUE-FISH (I use Halibut fish. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese oven and bake them. Try it folks, I lightly over onion mixture. Broil 3 instead) WITH HEAVENLY think you will really like them. to 5 minutes until cheese is lightly TOPPING And now since it is rapidly com- brown. Delicious. Serves 2 (or Jim). ing into fishing season I wanted to 1 medium onion, finely chopped Next time I’ll be writing from share with you a recipe that Jim en- 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard McCarthy. I can hardly wait. Would joys when we are in Alaska during 2 tablespoons Mayonnaise love to hear from you with sugges- the summer eating Halibut. The reci- 1 pound (or so) Blue Fish fillets tions or some of your favorite reci- pe is from a little cookbook I found 3 or 4 tablespoons Parmesan pes. Again my email address is somewhere called A Collection of cheese [email protected]. Eat well and enjoy Notable Recipes—compiled by Mem- life. Mix onion, Dijon mustard, may- bers and Friends of the Danbury Mu- onnaise until smooth. Set aside. sic Centre for their 60th year A LOOK AT THE WEATHER

Dec.8, '05) and the low was -45 on ture was -49 on January 7th (-23 on short November Summa- December 31st ( -29 on Dec. 4, ‘07, Jan 5, ‘08 and -41 on Jan. 10, ‘07). Ary. McCarthy had 17 days -18 on Dec. 2, '06 and -45 on Dec 2, 10 days had high temperatures of of missing data and I '05). Four days had high tempera- 30 or above and 3 days saw the tem- filled in with data from Kennicott as tures of 30 or above and four days perature dip below a minus 40. recorded by Mike Monroe. The aver- saw the low temperature dip below a January liquid precipitation at age temperature for Nov. ‘08 was minus thirty. McCarthy was 4.45 inches(0.43 13.5 (18.0 in Nov. ‘07, -16.6 in Nov. The December precipitation was inches in Jan. ‘08, 1.47 inches in ‘06 and 4.7 in Nov. ‘05), the high 2.10 inches of liquid precipitation Jan. ‘07, 0.20 inches in Jan. ‘06 and was 42 on the 29th and the low was (0.51 inches in Dec. ‘07, 0.85 in 1.03 inches in Jan. ‘05). Snowfall

-16 on the 9th . Total Liquid precipi- Dec. '06 and 2.43 in Dec. '05). Total was 26.3 inches(19.2 inches in Jan. tation was 0.41 inches (1.45 inches snow fall was 28.6 inches (8.8 inch- ‘07, 19.2 inches in Jan. ‘07, 4.4 in Nov. ‘07, 0.01 inches in Nov. ‘06 es in Dec. ‘07, 10.4 inches in Dec. inches in Jan. ‘06 and 12.1 inches and 4.71 inches in Nov. ‘05) and '06 and 7.8 inches in Dec. '05). The in Jan. ‘05). Snow cover was 20 snowfall was 8.5 inches (17.9 inches snow depth was 13 inches at the inches on January 1, increasing to in Nov. ‘07, 0.5 in Nov. ‘06 and 50.1 beginning of the month, increasing 27 inches on January 30th and end- in Nov. ‘05). The snow depth was 11 27 inches on December 7th, and ing January at 27 inches. inches on the 1st and ended the ended the month at 20 inches. Mike ebruary and March were month with 13 inches. recorded 2.20 inches of liquid and Fabout average in both ecember 2008 had about 29.7 inches of snow at Kennicott. temperature and precipi- Daverage temperatures he first 14 days of January tation. There were 26 days of Febru- and average precipita- T2009 is McCarthy data ary data missing and again I filled in tion. McCarthy had 16 days of miss- and the remainder of the with Kennicott data. ing data and again I filled in with month the data is from Mike Mon- The high temperature for Feb- roe at Kennicott. Kennicott data. ruary was 38 on the 18th (41 on Feb. The average December tempera- The average January tempera- 18, ‘08, 30 on Feb. 3, '07 and 44 on ture was -1.8 (6.3 in Dec. ‘07 and ture was 2.5 (0.4 in Jan. ‘08, 7.0 in Feb. 10, '06). The lowest tempera- Dec. ‘06, 8.2 in Dec. '05 and -7.4 in Jan. ‘07, 0.9 in Jan. ‘06, and -1.2 in ture recorded in February was -11

Dec. '04). This compares with an Jan. ‘05). This compares with an on the 5th (-10 on Feb 9, ‘08, -42 on average temperature of 4.7 taken by average temperature of 6.3 at Ken- Feb. 23, '07 and -26 on Feb. 25, Mike Monroe at Kennicott. The high nicott. The high was 44 on January '06). The high was 30 or above on was 34 on December 7th (33 on Dec. 15th (37 on Jan. 22, ‘08 and 34 on only 6 days and the low was -10 or 8, ‘06, 35 on Dec. 20, '06 and 41 on Jan. 27, ‘07) and the low tempera- lower on 2 days. The average Febru- PAGE 34 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 ary temperature was 13.2 (6.8 in high reached 40 or higher on 3 days 27 inches. The greatest snow fall so ‘08, 1.7 in ‘07, 11.6 in ‘06 and 12.3 and the low was -20 or below on 5 far was 118.4 inches in ‘08'-‘09 in ‘05). This is warm compared to days. Kennicott had an average tem- (110.6 in ‘03-‘04 and 99.9 inches in -5.9 in '99. perature of 18.8. '90-'91) and the lowest was 27.3 Mike Monroe in Kennicott had March liquid precipitation was inches in '86-'87. The greatest snow an average temperature of 13.5. 0.93 inches (0.51 in Mar. ‘08, 0.21 depth was 42 inches ‘03-‘04 (39 The February precipitation was in Mar. ‘07 trace in Mar. '06 and inches in '90-'91) and the lowest was 1.01 inches of liquid (0.81 in ‘08, 0.12 in Mar. '05) and snowfall was 16 inches in '86-'87 and '98-'99. 0.05 in '07 and 1.72 in '06). Total 15.4 inches ( 11.3 in Mar. ‘08, 3.7 The first week of April have seen snowfall was 14.0 inches (9.9 in’08, in Mar. ‘07, 0.1 in Mar. '06 and 0.8 a gradual warming of temperatures 2.5 in '07 and 8.6 in '06). McCarthy in Mar. '05). 6.9 inches fell on the and only a trace of precipitation. began February with 27 inches of 6th . March started the month with The high reached 52 and the lows snow on the ground and ended the 25 inches of snow on the ground, are in the 20's. By the 30th we month with 25 inches. Kennicott increased to 34 inches on the 6th should be seeing lows around freez- had 1.10 inches of liquid and 14.5 and ended the month with 25 inch- ing and highs close to 60. There is inches of snow. es. Kennicott had 1.30 inches of about 19 inches of snow left . The March was a continuation of liquid and 22.3 inches of snow. Ken- snow might be gone by the end of February in both temperature and nicott started the month with 30 the month, but I’m afraid that there precipitation. inches of snow on the ground and will be ice on the rivers and lakes until early May. The high temperature for increased to 41 on the 6th and end- May should see a rapid increase March was 45 on the 26th (47 on ed March with 33 inches. Mar. 9, ‘08, 40 on Mar. 21, '07 and The total snowfall for '08-'09 in temperatures with highs in the 48 on Mar. 20, '06). The low tem- was 118.4 inches, thru 3/31 (73.4 60's by mid-month. Precipitation is perature for March was -25 on the in ‘07-‘08, 44.7 in ‘06-‘07, 84.0 in usually on the light side with an av- erage amount of less than an inch. 3rd (-11 on Mar 3, ‘08, -40 on Mar. ‘05-‘06, 79.4 in ‘04-'05, 110.6 in 3, '07 and -31 on Mar. 17, '06). The ‘03-‘04, 44.5 in ‘02-‘03, and 67.1 in June is usually the warmest average March temperature at Mc- '01-'02). The greatest snow depth month at McCarthy with an average Carthy was 15.0 compared to 21.7 was 34 inches on March 6th . This temperature in the mid 50's, highs in Mar. ‘08, 4.2 in Mar. ‘07, 10.0 in compares with an average ('80-'08) in the 70's and about 2 inches of Mar. '06 and 28.7 in Mar. '05. The of 65.1 inches and a snow depth of rain. FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION Unreasonable regulation of a few is an important issue for all

cerns of local residents and busi- ported it to NPS. Last summer, two his past summer, a black nesses? Should we attempt to SEAG guides led a group of 16 teens Tbear swiped food from restrict the people or manage the and 3 adults. They had ample food, campers – and the reac- bears? Let’s catch up on the history, and 26 bear canisters – intending to tion to this incident threatens to so we can better understand our use NPS bear boxes for excess food. swipe at our freedom. It is a rela- future. NPS personnel spoke directly to the tively small swipe—a hasty, unrea- THE HISTORY group about the bear issue on Dono- sonable regulation—but the In 2003, an emaciated black ho, and the group set out. On the consequences of such an approach bear with 3 cubs roamed Donoho Westside of Donoho, the bear box are far-reaching. In trying to ad- Basin, and started taking food from was too small for the extra food, so dress the bear issue, the National campers. Since then we have seen a the guides used an Ursack to store Park Service has decided to limit rise in bear incidents, quite possibly coffee and tea. Unfortunately, a group sizes in the Donoho Basin. from these same bears. black bear got the Ursack, and SEAG paid a $500 fine. We feel ter- This regulation goes against scien- In 2006 a group of 14 teenagers rible about the incident, as we’ve tific evidence and common sense, with 3 adults had a granola bar tak- tried hard not to aggravate the bear raising the question: Does NPS reg- en by a bear. St. Elias Alpine Guides problem on Donoho. The NPS was ulation need to be justifiable? (SEAG) took the group ice climb- forced to shoot the bear as it dis- Should the NPS answer to the con- ing, heard of the incident, and re- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009 PAGE 35 played potentially dangerous behav- proved. We’re not politically adept, is limited to 12 persons, inclusive of ior. There was, however, a tool that but it didn’t seem reasonable to dis- guides and clients. It seemed a may have prevented this unfortu- approve a food storage tool used knee-jerk reaction to the situation; nate incident: an electric fence. effectively for years. In retrospect, we felt our letters and logic were Portable electric fences require this potentially unreasonable deci- ignored. Overwhelming evidence skill to assemble properly, but in sion was bad for NPS, the teen indicates that larger groups are less our experience, there is no better group visitors, SEAG, and the bear. likely to have a bear encounter, so way to safely store food for a larger The NPS spoke with us regard- it’s counterproductive to limit group. Some may recall the NPS ing this issue, and we do appreciate group size to reduce bear encoun- giving electric fences to community the dialog. This winter, they’ve been ters. members for effective food storage. attempting to formulate a solution. ANALYSIS OF NEW PROVISION To our knowledge, no group using Despite a lack of public forum, we The USGS Alaska Science Cen- an electric fence in the park has and others sent letters voicing con- ter compiled bear encounter data lost food to a bear. Unfortunately, cerns. One provision drafted this statewide, spanning 100 years and in May 2008, the NPS announced year to address the bear issue is including encounters resulting in electric fences were no longer ap- that group size in the Donoho Basin no injury, some form of injury or a (Continued on page 22) LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 3/16/09 the personal touches. It seems like I So please keep up the good Hi Rick and Bonnie, know everyone of you. work and I do look forward to your Here is the money for a 2 year I keep saying I am going to stop next edition and look forward to subscription to the best little maga- in every September but it seems I seeing how the fishing contest zine in the USA. get to Chitina and never get any comes out on Long Lake. I truly enjoy it. I look forward to farther up the road. Robert J. Kelly each edition that comes and love Wisconsin

STATE- NATION- LOCAL WIDE WIDE

Wireless www.cvtc.org WIRELESS INTERNET LOCAL LONG DISTANCE DISH TV PAGE 36 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2009

70 May 2008 60

50

40

30

20 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 80 June 2008 70

60

50

40

30

20 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

is proud to be serving you again this year with exceptional wood products. XX T&G house logs Rough cut beams 822-5745 Log siding Interior T&G paneling & flooring

NEW this year: Sheathing & kiln dried commercial grade studs.

Mile 13 Edgerton Hwy Email: [email protected]