ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:41 Page 498 NORTH ISLES - SHAPINSAY SHAPINSAY - HJALPANDISEY OR “HELPING ISLE” t h confusing due to later walls. g i r y A standing stone, the Mor p o c Stein (HY524169), stands n w o 3m high where it is said to r C have landed after being thrown by a giant from the Mainland at his fleeing wife! The Broch of Burroughston (HY541211) was excavated in 1862 and had fallen into ruin, but has now been tidied up and repaired, and is well Elwick and Balfour Village from the east worth visiting. This typical broch site faces the sea and It is possible that the the arrival and muster of Odin's Stone (HY506193), is surrounded by good agri- Romans may have visited King Haakon of Norway's a large stone about 2m SHAPINSAY (ON Hjalpandisey, rigs was rationalised and cultural land. An impressive Shapinsay. Agricola's fleet great fleet with which he square on the beach below either Helping Island, for much new land reclaimed, ditch and rampart enclose a is said to have subdued planned to arrest the decline Lairo Water, is different ships, or, Shipping Island, or with the result that produc- settlement on the shore side. Orkney in AD83 and other of Norse power in Scotland. from other stones on the maybe Hjalpandi’s Isle) lies tion increased dramatically. contacts with Orkney’s Picts Apparently they arrived on a beach and tradition has it northeast of Kirkwall and As in most parts of Orkney, The doorway and interior are recorded. Roman arte- Saturday and after holding that offerings to the Norse less than 30 minutes away the farms are all owner- are particularly well pre- facts have also been found at mass in his land tent the God were made there. It has by ferry, making it almost occupied nowadays. served. The walls survive to broch sites. Near Stromberry King entertained all the local also been suggested that part of St. Ola. This highly a height of about 3m and the there is a small jetty called people. It is said that one of Ting meetings were held cultivated island is com- Archaeology Shapinsay has intramural staircases and Grukalty Pier (HY467173), his ships was lost on Haco’s here. The nearby farm of posed mostly of Rousay few major archaeological spaces are clearly visible. which is traditionally named Ness, but there is no hard Skenstoft (ON Skeidarnaustopt, flags, with some Eday flags sites on display, but is rich in There is a hole in the centre after Agricola, due to the evidence for this! House at a Noust for a Skeid, in the southeast, while at unexcavated mounds and of the floor with steps loss of a Roman ship near Haco's Ness (HY525149) possible prehistoric sites. At descending to a probable here. This could all be leg- there are volcanic rocks. Castle Bloody (HY537165) well, and an interesting cell end, and Roman goods The whole island is overlain a mound covers a cham- with a corbelled roof leading could have come to Orkney with a layer of boulder clay. bered cairn, on the island’s off to the left of the entrance by trade. It was one of the first areas last remaining moorland. passage. Both have echoes of Orkney to be successfully There is also a stalled cairn of Minehowe. Although Shapinsay is not "improved". The regular at Haco’s Ness mentioned in the ten-acre fields are the result (HY525149), with six There are several other Orkneyinga Saga, it is fea- of land reform in the 1850s, upright stones set in a large brochs, including Steiro tured in Haakon's Saga. In when the old system of run- chamber. The site is rather (HY503163), below the old 1263, Elwick Bay witnessed The Mor Stane with Castle Bloody chambered cairn in the background The Hillock of Burroughston encloses a well-preserved broch kirk, the large mound at Broch of Burroughston - corbelled cell at entrance Broch of Burroughston - well Howe (HY512160), and The Hillock at Ness of Ork (HY536221), where walls and midden can be seen eroding from the shore. Clearly the eastern approaches to the Stronsay Firth and Shapinsay Sound were important in the Iron Age. 498 499 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:41 Page 500 NORTH ISLES - SHAPINSAY SHAPINSAY - HJALPANDISEY OR “HELPING ISLE” rebel army, as a result of His father William had recent- which the house was burned ly purchased the rest of down in 1746 by government Shapinsay, and he immediate- soldiers. The only remnant ly set about changing the face today is “Buchanan’s Gate”, of the island. The Scottish the west entry to the Castle architect David Bryce was gardens that incorporates the engaged to enlarge the exist- initials of Arthur Buchanan ing house into the present and Margaret Buxton and the Balfour Castle, complete date 1674 from the entrance with castellated tower, corner to their house of Sound. turrets, crowstep gables and Sandy Geo on the north side of the Ness of Ork below The Hillock broch large picture windows. Balfour Castle from the sea - it dates from 1847 The Balfours were Jacobites, a type of longship), may most likely on the site of a stones taken from Noltland arable, but by 1874 this area and suffered financially as a The Scottish Baronial style have been the landing place much earlier chapel. castle, including one with a exceeded 6,000 acres. result, but Thomas Balfour mansion originally had 12 out- for such meetings. Renovations were carried date of 1725. married Frances Liginier in side doors, 52 rooms and 365 out on at least two subse- Today the home of the 1775, whose money allowed window panes. The Christian sites At Linton quent occasions. There are Although he did not succeed Zawadski family, Balfour them to buy the Sound Estate Gatehouse, now the island’s (HY530187) there is a 12th several interesting tomb- in changing the name Castle makes an interesting in 1784. They built a new only public house, used to be century chapel dedicated to stones here and elsewhere in “Shapinsay” to his own, visit. The interior has not house, Cliffdale, and estab- the Porter’s Lodge of the St Catherine which resem- the graveyard. The present Balfour did manage to per- changed much since David lished the village, then called Castle and was built in 1851. bles the Wyre chapel. It has “Old Kirk” was built in the suade the Postmaster Balfour's time and remains Shoreside, to house cottars Crenellations and turrets add a walls nearly 1m thick, an graveyard and initially had General to change the postal totally unspoilt. The gar- cleared from Sound. military feel to the whole area. oblong nave and a small an earth floor. Apparently address of the island to Extensive woods and gar- chancel. A lintel from here the smell was so strong that “Balfour”. Presumably this Farm buildings and dykes dens were laid out, the pier, was used in building a byre women sometimes fainted, rather pretentious change were erected. Soon the estate a school and the home farm on a nearby farm in the early prompting the installation of increased his pride. was transformed, with fields built. 1900s, but it was promptly a wooden floor. enclosed and modern farming returned when two of the The whole of Shapinsay, practices adopted. Following South of the pier The farmer's cattle were discov- The Balfours The house of apart from the Church- generations of Balfours Douche, a salt-water shower ered hanged in the byre. Sound was originally built owned Glebe, was squared amassed money, but did not with a dovecote on top was about 1674 by Arthur into 10-acre fields, with continue the rapid develop- constructed. Balfour also In the kirkyard near the now Buchanan. Their grand extensive drains and dykes. ments of the late 1700s. installed a gasworks in about roofless old kirk, which daughter married James Fea New breeds of cattle and 1856 to illuminate the Castle dates from 1802 are the of Pirate Gow fame, who was sheep were brought in and the Balfour Castle This all and village. The circular remains of Lady Kirk, said a Jacobite sympathiser and latest crops introduced. In changed when David Balfour stone tower remains near the to have been built in 1559, sent a supply of arms to the 1841 only 748 acres were inherited the estate in 1846. school. It incorporates some Dishan Tower - salt water shower The “Old Kirk” is now roofless “Master George Buchanan” with nearby date “1656” Balfour Castle interior Elwick Lodge (1784) and sea-washed toilet 500 501 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 21:41 Page 502 NORTH ISLES - SHAPINSAY SHAPINSAY - HJALPANDISEY OR “HELPING ISLE” Washington Irving, though dry the salted fish, but the born in New York, is one of workers lived in bothies in Shapinsay's distinguished the village and used the sea- grandsons. His father was washed toilet near the pier. born at Quholme The tide cleaned out the con- (HY522214) about 1740, tents twice a day, but it can- where the original house still not still have been very salu- stands. He went to sea and brious. Elwick Mill was a petty-officer aboard a (HY486169) is one of the packet ship, which ran from largest watermills in Orkney, Falmouth to New York. though it no longer grinds corn. There is a pottery He married a Falmouth girl workshop and studio in the The Wide Firth from one of the searchlight houses at Saltness Galtness WWII Coastal Battery house a twin 6-pounder gun in 1761, emigrated to New nearby old mill.