Dismantling Feminist Biology Through the Design of Etextiles

Dismantling Feminist Biology through the Design of eTextiles

Abstract: We present the design of a toolkit that ex- 1 2 Teresa Almeida , Ko-Le Chen , plores textile materials with electronics as interac- Rob Comber1 and Madeline Balaam1 tion material for intimate health literacy, and method for engaging women in self-care. This toolkit includes 1 KTH Royal Institute of Tech- nology, Stockholm, Sweden a series of artefacts designed for research. A range of [email protected], rcomber@ design and craft techniques were used, and materi- kth.se, [email protected] als explored, as medium to engender conversations

2 Newcastle Universi- between communities of women on practices of in- ty, Newcastle, UK timate care. The toolkit consists of a set of materials [email protected] for the following two activities 1) body mapping and 2) do-it-yourself (DIY) wearable eTextiles. We pre sent findings from our case study that included itera- tions with the toolkit within four discrete workshops, and a total of 22 women and girls age range 15-52.

Our approach draws from feminist biology to assi milate notions of embodiment and bodily functions in ways that are conducive to knowledge production. Within this study we put a focus on interweaving aesthetics with the material landscape of electronic textiles and the body; making with and through DIY artefacts supported by technology-enabled materials, to shape and strengthen knowledge of processes within and between bodies. We contribute a designerly approach to creating bodily awareness through hands-on engagement with crafting technology.

Keywords: Intimate care; toolkits; eTextiles; feminist biology; woman-centred design

1 2 #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam

Frictions and Shifts in RTD Almeida, Chen, Comber and Balaam | eTextile Toolkit.

3 - - - - - - - - sses sses 4 making and wearable eTextiles as a form as a form eTextiles making and wearable

to facilitate and mediate knowledge of the body of and mediate knowledge to facilitate vary from making and designing wellbeing, e.g (Briggs-Goode and et al. 2017), through anatomy using et al. (Norooz 2015), the latter physiology ex an interactive to deliver textiles computational unseen “bodyperience of to children. organs” In a the research introduced in this paper similar way, combines we Specifically, the body. of awareness raising of the way our bodies manage themselves (Birke (Birke our bodies themselves the way manage body1999). While the biological might be a part the bio (ibid 1999), unmentionable the great of logy the body of “is crucial – and a vital ally – in both understand embodiment we how terms of the subtly sociopoliti and others) and (our own produc scientific knowledge dimensions of cal 2010). Biology (Åsberg is also and Birke tion” and this study includes bodilywhat functions, materials interactive novel aimed using was at as tools to open dialogues within communities proce biological in understanding women of in pelvic health care. such as those involved as interactive Whereas eTextiles the design of has mainly knowledge generate that materials focused and on learning and teaching computation 2012) and Perner-Wilson engineering, (Buechley making things “the of also note that experience hand is an importantby part being of human” different engage doing can of ways and different More peoplekinds of technology. in creating as artefacts apply eTextiles approaches that over, knowledge and awareness in a ‘public’ setting. in a and awareness knowledge and Technologies Bodies body the female has been history, Throughout to this day that restriction a associated with taboo, women’s of to hinder the development continues geographies across e.g. health and care, intimate 2008). (Rossmann (Tuli et al. 2018) and devices Whereas body the biological has long been a feminists 1999), or (Birke feminism problem for bodies’ at are no ‘women’s there arguing that the look 2011), new approaches that at all (Frost process body how explore as a living organism in e.g the body, of in the materiality es involved matter actively can and physiology, its anatomy to social and cultural constructsand contribute biologi that advance we (ibid 2011). Similarly, are shaped and behaviour processes cal the by social the mate of the cultural, and but also that rial. Bodies hurt, bleed, flesh. and are made of and acti processes of shift the focus to that We vities within and between In health, bodies. we granted for our bodilymight take functions and erly approach engages with crafting technology crafting with approacherly engages tool a of materiality and the uses aesthetics and body intimate of the development kit to enable - - - ------men’s men’s - activities with the design of artefacts. The design artefacts. activities with the design of #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam total, old. from 15 through to 52 years This paper to high study case findings from this introduces knowledge-generating merge light qualities that sists of a set of materials for the activities of body of the activities for materials a set of of sists and it was eTextiles, mapping and DIY wearable and girls in and 22 women used workshops in four that combines tangible visual mediaand on-body combines that interactions to support learning intimate about body This toolkit parts con and their functions. knowledge and biological embodiment and biological knowledge in legi are useful to the production of that ways timate designed we a toolkit Put into practice, knowledge. ization of feminist biology, one that accounts for for accounts one that biology, feminist of ization body within the biological the processes and is biological to explore bias, from gender removed 2017), and it views research2017), and it views through design as the production new knowledge for of a resource from a conceptual draw we (Storni 2015). Hence, in workshop settings. This designerly approach settings. in workshop thinking through making is integral that contends (Durrant et al. and understanding to knowledge We position making de our approach in that We topics sign-as-inquiry tackling sensitive enables with communities with varied and engagement to create self-awareness through interaction with through interaction to create self-awareness (technology-enabled) and activities. materials or lack thereof, is actively produced (Tuana 2006), is actively or lack thereof, the body notions of to its explore in relation and we approaches conducive biology to disentangle novel designing materials that promote bodily that aware designing materials em to become women and invite care, value ness, knowledge, As arguedbodied elsewhere, knowers. gical knowledge. In doing this, we challenge tradi challenge we In doing this, knowledge. gical in understanding women engaging of tional forms and proposetheir bodies, renewed approaches to care. In our work, we aim to make accessible topics accessible In our work, to make aim we care. are intertwined such as those that with the body, of to biolo in connection taboo misinformation and change (Prado de O. Martins 2014), is uniquely de O. (Prado change previously has hindered what to withstand situated health and to, in, and access development women’s “women as objects of knowledge, but not as au “women knowledge, as objects of we this, (ibid 2006). In light of thorised knowers” tool social design, for as an effective that contend wo of medicalisation and professionalisation traditio health women’s in detriment of that, instrumental was in establishing nal knowledge, ignored in the production (Tuana knowledge of is directly related knowledge so when 2006), even the it was Historically, bodies. to them and their of inclusion and exclusion from the communi from and exclusion inclusion of 1993). (Schiebinger knowledge configure ties that been people a group of have women Traditionally, The bodiesThe knowledge produce we which through and how 1988; Harding 1991), (Haraway matter systems by is conditioned know we what know we Introduction

Frictions and Shifts in RTD explore such an approach as catalyst for body organs that are intimate, the set of materials discussion around sensitive, embarrass- available during the workshops invited partici- ing, taboo topics as described earlier. pants to recall existing body knowledge, and to expand on that same knowledge through a hands- ‘Doing’ enables different concerns for embo on process of DIY discovery of and ‘on’ the body. diment, emotionality, and situated enquiry o To do this, we integrated two research methods therwise overlooked (Rosner et al. 2016), and the to making and working with tangible materials 1) experience of engaging with the making of ma- body mapping: Body maps have a history of fa- terial objects can contribute to engage in more cilitating conversations around sensitive topics intricate issues (Ratto 2011). Generally defined, (Solomon 2007; Zablotny 2014), and we used body experiences are far more effective tools for pro- mapping as a creative method to talk about bodily voking estrangement, discomfort and, ultimately, taboos that are problematised by touch (Suvilehto reflection (Prado de O. Martins 2014). In explo et al. 2015), specifically the anatomy of the pelvis ring ways for technology to contribute to cre- and the female perineum. Moreover, the difficulty ating bodily awareness around intimate pelvic associated with researching ‘troublesome’ to health, the interactions that took place between pics and the “social codes that dictate that we do the toolkits and women in the workshops opened not talk about our ‘private parts’ with strangers up the space for ‘knowing’. Such generating ac- or acquaintances” as it were a transgression of tivities led to conversations around experien boundaries between public and private is explored ces of care and revealed how qualities of body in (Braun 1999). In this sense, body mapping was knowledge can be affected by topics of taboo, positioned as an alternative approach that em- misinformation, and lack of self-awareness. ploys clothing as embodied experience to express knowledge of the body and to facilitate conversa- The eTextile Toolkit tions around these anatomical private parts; 2) The eTextile Toolkit introduced in this paper DIY wearable eTextiles: In engaging with clothing combines technologies to explore novel ways to as embodied experience, the focus remains in promote bodily awareness around pelvic health the anatomy. However, by introducing eTextiles, (figure 1). It aimed to bring to the foreground re- we focus on the morphology of the pelvic floor search in a sensitive topic and to challenge lines muscles, which is an unexplored, albeit crucial, of inquiry that continue to be absent. In gene topic in intimate health education. We review rating artefacts that tackle bodily functions and the use of the toolkit in the section that follows.

Figure 1. eTextile Toolkit: Components for Activity 2, DIY Wearable eTextiles. Underwear with sewn soft circuit; screenprint on fabric of pelvic floor muscles; a semi-assembled pattern with soft circuit on back; prototypes of detachable soft electronics; various hand- outs. Photo: Teresa Almeida. 5 - - - - Clothing) Tag, part ( . Illustration: So

An initial sketch of (top) Figure 2. pelvic floor muscles on under wear phie Fernandez. Pelvic organs: Body mapping on the body; on underwear. Stills from work shop. Photos: Ko-Le Chen.

person knowledge in relation to childbirth-person or in relation knowledge , asked a 16 years old participant old a 16 years , asked all causing only muscle group in the body capable of giving structural support to the pelvic organs. Pelvic floor muscles are im portant for lifelong well being. They have a significant role in continence preven tion, sexual pleasure, and core stability, being the #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam tivity that followed, an introduction to the pelvictivity that floor (figure 3). Nevertheless, this activity enabled open conversations among open this activity enabled conversations Nevertheless, betweenthem, them and the researchers, discussions informal starter and a guide to the ac and it served both as a conversation Mapping out in and around the body varied between women’s ex Mapping out in and around the body between women’s varied first e.g periences, some. among and relatable acceptable was that lingo the use of tred around the women’ perceptions of intimate parts of the body, parts intimate the body, of perceptions of tred the women’ around bothand combined language. and colloquial biological the use of ing what remains a taboo: sex related organs. organs. related remains a taboo: sex ing what a vagina?” draw cen sessions the different across others to laugh. The discussions steer the conversations amongst them. Moreover, as an ice-brea them. amongst Moreover, the conversations steer with each other comfortable there to help them getting it was ker, and draw discussing involved setting, that one and the workshop recall knowledge they may have of the reproductive system and system the reproductive of have may they knowledge recall of a piece knickers, (figure 2). The organs associated external served briefs, classic as a visual guideline and to white cotton Making connections to knowledge to Making connections The body in pairs to work and women mapping activity invited plore the anatomy of the pelvic floor. A total of 22 women and girls women and girls of 22 A total the pelvic of floor. plore the anatomy toolkit workshops. within four - 52 used 15 aged our eTextiles emerged sessions: during the themes that summarise four We tured around a toolkit composed of two activities, firstly a firstly bodytured around a toolkit activities, composed two of 30 minutes and (average) of with the duration mapping exercise to ex materials of consisting eTextile a DIY wearable secondly, combining an interdisciplinary methodscombining approach inventive and to making, hands-on provided the workshops insights into the struc was workshop hours two The bodyintimate and anatomy. The design workshops describeddesign workshops The functioned section in this a as with working and which ‘making things’ field site in collaborative and understanding. knowledge By aimed to generate materials The Design Workshops Design The

Frictions and Shifts in RTD Making the eTextile We appropriate the flat pattern concept and method employed by patternmakers in fashion apparel to create a screenprint of the diffe rent pelvic muscles. This screenprint is equi valent to a sewing pattern block, ready to cut out and assemble. Once assembled, the pattern renders visible the structure of the pelvic floor muscles as a whole. Afterwards, it can be assembled to a pair of knickers: the knickers have a hand-sewn circuit of conductive thread and paired halves of metallic snaps to attach the pattern to. Once the pattern has been correctly attached, a detachable soft circuit board can be connected to the circuit thread- Figure 4. Handout: A component ed on the knickers. This task completed, 3 LED of the toolkit, it demonstrates lights on the soft circuit board light up in how to assemble the pelvic floor a sequence, 1) all the way up 2) all the way muscles once pattern pieces have down, in order to simulate a ‘contraction’ been cut out (Body Inside Out). and ‘relaxation’ movement. Repeat 10 times. Illustration: Sophie Fernandez. Visual design: Ephrat Seidenberg. 7 - - - 8 tactile nature of the material and the tasks of cutting and assembling as prone to engage in as prone to engage and assembling cutting and the tasks of the material of tactile nature was useful when think pattern the flat of the assembly that found they learning. Moreover, been or have done, not have may using a mobile application that ing about the body in ways including the piece by on the fact that, commented they or appealing.so engaging Finally, the activity (and body relate part) could they body to their own more easily. underwear, of Body Inside Out of the pelvic floor in the muscles provided pattern out the flat toolkit, women and In cutting the ma hand. of The touch and feel at the fabric of the materiality in exploring girls engaged intriguing. curious were was They the illustration and the detail of them by valued terial was whether the researchers had designed it had been it and how produced. their re Some of through the and printing techniques, colours of marks included the choice the illustration, #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam

Frictions and Shifts in RTD Figure 5. Body inside out: (female) pelvic floor muscle pattern pieces assembled on underwear (page 8); plugging a soft circuit to the piece of underwear with muscle print (page 9). Photos: Ko-Le Chen.

9 10 . (bottom) DIY Wearable eTextiles: ; exploring the anatomy of #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam Photo: Ko-Le Chen/Teresa Almeida. Making connections to knowledge (top) the pelvic floor with and through making in a workshop Figure 6.

Frictions and Shifts in RTD The ultimate goal of the workshop was to understand pelvic fitness, and the final activity was to attach a soft wearable piece of electro nics that would complete the knickers as an eTextile (figure 5). This eTextile provides a visual simulation of the muscles contracting and relaxing, a representation intended to stress awareness of the morphology and alert to the biomechanics of the female pelvic floor. This last step on making the eTextile involved connecting the small bespoke soft circuit board to the circuit threaded on the knickers. This task completed, the LED lights on the soft circuit board would light up in a sequence with one second interval inbetween all the way up and then all the way down to simulate a ‘contraction’ and ‘rela xation’ movement. As awkward as the eTextile might have looked, it granted a space to laugh and make fun of oneself, as in the case of two participants who decided to try on the knickers: Squeeze what…? Squeeze down there! (laughs), but also to reflect on personal experience and ask related questions, such as ‘what is normal’, incontinence, organ prolapse, or whether or not men also have a pelvic floor.

Awareness and Outreach In general, women appeared to have a genuine interest in the topic and the workshop granted them an opportunity to (re)discover an integral part of their bodies: they not only had never heard about the pelvic floor before, or pelvic floor muscle exercises, but also had varied knowledge about their own intimate anatomy. Where- as the reproductive system and genitalia are topics that are part of the national (UK) curriculum to be delivered in the classroom, topics of taboo as such, which may bring about embarrassment, are topics people ‘don’t talk about’. Nevertheless, the need to keep this part of the body fit, or why it is relevant for general health and wellbeing, was surprising to them and something they had never thought about, despite concerns and questions regarding sex or childbirth. It might have been an awkward subject to bring up in these workshop settings however the prevailing openness to learn new things that relate to their bodies appeared to be appreciated.

Reflecting in Uncharted Territory The learning generated through the designs supported an understanding of what the pelvic floor looks like or being aware of the reasons why the pelvic floor should be kept fit. The women easily engaged in discussion and related to their own personal experiences. Furthermore, the experience of cutting out the printed pattern was meant to observe the body from an unlikely viewpoint. The action of cutting out was an approach that required material interaction to build body perceptions. In the absence of suitable knowledge about their female body, many participants sought to learn more during the workshop. The new knowledge about their own anatomy caused surprise, sparked curiosity, and prompted humour and laughter - a common response throughout all the workshops. Whether prompt by embarrassment, self-doubt, or nervousness, to feeling comfortable and supported when talking about and asking about their genitalia and related pelvic floor issues, most women seemed to be at ease after starting the session. A willingness to blend humour with the discussion was present most of the time and in a variety of situations, from speculating possible designs for the technology through being ‘suspicious’ of the woman demonstrating how to do pelvic floor exercises on a video shown during the workshop.

11 - - - - 12 racy of intimate parts managing an impact intimate the bodyracy of on, of e.g. have can Envisioned as a way of encouraging women to learn women their inti about encouraging of as a way Envisioned design and its artefacts the approach bodies, as medi considers mate the ums to highlight the prospect creation and action. knowledge of To the bodysame extent, with a pair care framed of intimate map was for and share perceptions knowledge to exercise women having knickers, textile on the cotton organs reproductive bodies their of illustrating by experienced they through making eTextiles, material. Furthermore, to learn with, material and cri as an interactive textiles computational making as method betweentical traditional education the gap to bridge this ma of it is an awareness that suggest We and learning on the body. organs) the bodyteriality of its e.g. (with organism as an ever-changing body lite Moreover, and self-care. charge to take prompts women that Discussion to be trou continues its health and care, body, the female Designing for such bodies of and experiences knowledge thus reframing is blesome, to ignite conversations toolkit, attempt we paramount. the eTextiles With of traditional is “freed from the confines that and promote new knowledge and focus to processes the shift of 2006). Moreover, (Tuana frameworks” example, – for materiality the body’s and “how activities within the body, to matter actively forces – and other material and physiology its anatomy 2011) is entwined (Barad, cited in Frost materialization” of the processes the view of shares this feminist Toolkit The eTextile in our exploration. biology. body of the agency organism, as a living recognizing while - , - - Attempts, Attempts, The eTextile Tool eTextile The a. Hillevi Munthe. Salonul de Salonul de Hillevi Munthe. Bucharest, Roma Proiecte, Teresa Almeida. nia. Photo: Failures, Trials and Errors and Trials Failures, by organized exhibition group and coordi 2580 Association and Tincuta Heinzel nated by Figure 7. Figure in kit showing #rtd2019 #researchthroughdesign #delft #rotterdam

Frictions and Shifts in RTD menstruation or sexual health. In combining innovative methods and hands-on engagement with relatable (textile) and surprising (interactive, technology-abled) materials, the toolkit and the workshop setting serve as unconventional devices for breaking the taboo on the topic and as catalysts for conversation. In this regard, insights provided by this ma king design-as-inquiry approach show that sensitive topics as those of the intimate body can benefit from thinking through making and engagement with creative resources as a resource itself, when it comes to enquire and deconstruct existing knowledge in pursuance of producing new one.

The content of this toolkit enabled women to gain renewed understanding of, e.g anatomy and lived experiences such as childbirth. Whereas sur- prised that an event they might not have had the lexicon for before, e.g. incontinence, concerned by an ongoing condition on the body or simply curious, women engaged in discussion and related to their own perso nal experiences. In reflecting on, and relating to, their bodies through the materials at hand, they observed the body from an unlikely viewpoint, e.g. in drawing organs on knickers or in cutting out the screenprinted pattern on fabric. Moreover, these activities involved material interaction to build body perceptions, the act of cutting and assembling (the pattern) becomes a method to engage in learning. This mediated knowledge of the body through artefacts and social engagement, within a community of women, seeks to highlight disparate concerns for embodiment or situated know ledge (Rosner et al. 2016). Considering that each and every woman may find themselves in a wide-ranging and varied circumstances, or have a distinct range of subjective experiences, this toolkit was manifold in that it aimed to tackle a topic that traverses biology and health, by exploring tangible interactive materials, communication and reflective (self-) awareness.

Body Matters The possibilities afforded by the toolkit within the design workshops included the opportunity for women to talk about topics that are usu- ally not shared, or if shared are generally done so in a joking manner between peers, or seriously if within a consultation. Creative me thods, such as the body mapping explored during the first half of the group activities, helped the participants in these workshops to share (and challenge) their knowledge, while thinking with and through the materiality of the body itself, and with each other. The DIY wea rable eTextile activity that followed the body mapping experiment contributed further to materialise this ‘out of touch, out of sight’ body part (the pelvic floor and its muscles), offering the women and girls, through a combination of crafting materials, tools and techniques, the time and opportunity to discuss and converse among themselves.

All in all, the eTextile toolkit and the design workshop format were an attempt in practice at exploring methods that may support women’s bodily knowledge in health and (self) care. In addressing the challenge of such a sensitive topic, we aimed to design a technology (set of acti vities) that could help bringing awareness and destigmatise the conversation around the intimate female body. We did this through imbuing the materials of interaction with qualities that merge knowledge-ge nerating activities with the design of eTextiles. This approach combined aesthetics and the materiality embedded in a toolkit that explored the anatomy and physiology of the intimate body. Emerging from a design inquiry into the making with and through DIY artefacts within intimate care, the toolkit enabled the development of intimate body know ledge and for each woman to shape the content to their own bodies.

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