TOWN TOWN PLETTENBERG BAY

here can’t be many South African sun-seekers who haven’t greased their shoulders and spread their towels on one of Plett’s golden beaches. Or maybe you have childhood memories of Plett: catching your first real wave at Central Beach and dropping your soft serve into the boiling sand while running back to the brolly. Yes, Plett is a happy place where families get together and Tcatch up on the year’s events; where the stoep of the holiday house is eternally littered with boogie boards and flip-flops, covered in a gritty layer of beach sand. The town has changed over the years. Opulent houses have sprouted on the ridge behind Robberg Beach and the suburbs Pret have grown. Main Street is busy at most times of the year, full of boutique stores and restaurants. Wine has found its way to the Garden Route and there are a number of nearby estates to visit. Then there are the forests and the seaside trails, best explored on foot or on two wheels – or four hoofs. For the kids, there’s action that will knock their socks off and wear them out by the time the sun goes down. Heck, there’s even a Woolworths in Plett! in Plett Bring the family and come get a taste of the action. Plett is home to some of ’s best beaches and it’s always packed out during summer. It’s also a fantastic off-season destination, when the crowds have gone back to Illovo and Idaho. Here’s your guide.

WORDS MATT COVARR PICTURES HALSZKA COVARR

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3 Paddle to Whiskey Creek 5 Horse riding and wine The Keurbooms is a magical river and you can explore Hog Hollow Horse Trails offers a number of guided it in both directions: upriver you’ll enter a gorge where outrides, with the option to stop for lunch or a wine turacos and fish-eagles swoop; downriver you’ll discover tasting. The trails run through farmland and forest in a world of sandbanks and secret beaches. an area called The Crags, between Plett and Nature’s The crosses the river just north of Plett. The Valley. You needn’t be a pro either – your guide will turn-off to the slipway is at the bridge. You can launch assist you as required and the Hog Hollow horses are a boat here, or hire a canoe. The river narrows as it well accustomed to amateur riders. winds inland and there are a number of beaches with Ride options include the adventurous Far Ridges braai spots. The most famous of these is called Whiskey Trail, or the Bubbles and Beasts Trail, which takes you Creek, about 5 km upriver from the slipway, where the via Monkeyland Primate Sanctuary and Birds of Eden water is the colour of the finest single malt. Load a cool to finish up at Bramon Wine Estate for tapas and box and make a day of it. sparkling wine. In the opposite direction towards the river For a full day of wine estates, The Crags Wine Route mouth, there are some nice swimming beaches Trail will take you to three estates, with wine tasting and and fishing spots (permit required). Keep away tapas at each. FUN IN THE SUN. Paddle up the from the mouth itself because the currents are Where? 16 km north-east of Plett, along the N2 towards and spend the strong and unpredictable. Port Elizabeth. day swimming and fishing at a Where? The slipway is about 10 km north of Plett, Cost: From R295 per person for the one-hour beach like Whiskey Creek (below just off the N2 towards Port Elizabeth. Meadow Trail, to R1 200 per person for the full- left). Or pack a picnic and head to Boat hire: You can hire a small motorboat at the day wine-tasting trail. (below). Harkerville Plettenberg Bay Angling Club (R800 per day), or a Contact: 082 771 3745; also has some amazing mountain- canoe at the CapeNature office at the slipway (R135 horseridinggardenroute.com biking trails (bottom). per day). You can also launch your own boat at the slipway – the permit fee depends on the size of the boat’s motor; plus R80 launch fee. Contact: Plettenberg Bay Angling Club 044 535 9740; CapeNature 044 533 2125

THINGS TO DO 4 Ride in the forest Plett is mountain-biking nirvana. There’s a trail for ROBBERG RAMBLE (above). For the 1 Storm the beaches! 2 Walk around Robberg everyone, from fast single track to gentle forest roads wildest views in Plett, head to Robberg If you want a quiet spot to catch some sun, plant The Robberg Peninsula is what separates Plettenberg and everything in between. Nature Reserve and walk one of the your umbrella somewhere along Robberg Beach – a Bay from the Indian Ocean. It’s a wild place, full of For some real action, head to the Cairnbrogie MTB trails on the peninsula. 5 km swathe of sand between Central Beach and the fynbos and plunging cliffs smashed by waves. In and Trail Park. They’ve got two pump tracks (for adults Robberg Peninsula. Central Beach, in the shadow spring you’re guaranteed to see whales. At other and kids) and various trails on the farm, from a 1,2 km of the Beacon Island hotel, is more protected so it’s times of the year, look out for sharks, dolphins and forest ride to a more challenging 11 km circuit. good for kids. This is also where you’ll find the all- the seal colony that gives the peninsula its name. Then there’s Harkerville, a forested area 15 km west important ice creams and burgers. (Rob means “seal” in Afrikaans.) of Plett towards . There are five routes that all Lookout Beach, north of Central, is another wide Hike the Point Trail (8,5 km) all around the peninsula start at the Garden Of Eden picnic spot just off the N2: expanse of sand, with the sea on one side and the for the best views. Set aside at least three hours. If The 13 km Yellow Route is the easiest and the 22 km Red GET THE WET WIPES (below). Robberg Keurbooms Lagoon on the other. Lookout is good for you have small children, or less time, cut across the Route is the most challenging. All the trails lead through Beach is huge – there’s plenty of a long walk: Start off next to the sea, turn at the river peninsula halfway at a big sand dune called . the forest, but a section of the Red Route also goes along space for the kids to run around. mouth and return along the shore of the lagoon. There’s a secluded beach at the bottom, at a place fynbos-covered cliffs at the coast. And afterwards? Ice lollies! For that completely deserted and unspoiled vibe, called Die Eiland – literally an island connected to the Another option is to ride the 22,5 km Petrus-se-Brand head to , a short drive north-east of main peninsula by a sand spit. Keep an eye on the tide Trail, which takes you through the heart of the Knysna Plett via the N2. From the main beach at Keurbooms, and pack some snacks, sunscreen and plenty of water. Forest from Harkerville to Diepwalle. you can carry on walking east to the mouth of the You can even stay overnight, Robinson Crusoe style, And these are just the popular options! There are Matjies River, where there’s a rock shelter with evidence in a cabin called the Fountain Shack. You and your any number of cycling trails in the MTO forestry sections of human occupation going back thousands of years. friends will be the only people in the reserve come behind Plett and Knysna. Get a Trail Pass and a map and On the other side of the river is Arch Rock – Plett’s sundown, with little more than rocks and seagulls see where the road takes you. You’ll find all the permit (mini) version of Hole-in-the-Wall. Make sure you do between you and the ocean. details, and a good selection of routes and ride profiles this walk at low tide. Where? About 5 km south of Plett via Robberg Road. in the Plett and Knysna area, at mtbtrailpass.co.za Or walk back in the direction of Plett. The beach Follow the signs. Cost: Cairnbrogie R50 per person for the day. Harkerville goes on and on: 10 km of pristine coastline, where Entrance fee: R40 per adult; R20 per child. R40 per adult; R20 per child. MTB Trail Pass R240 per year. dolphins and whales splash beyond the breakers. Fountain Shack rates: From R875 per night. Contact: Cairnbrogie 044 533 9163; cairnbrogie. Swimming is not a good idea, though. There are no Contact: CapeNature 044 533 2125; co.za; Garden of Eden (SANParks) 044 532 7793; lifeguards and rip currents are prevalent. capenature.co.za sanparks.org; MTO routes mtbtrailpass.co.za

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or splash out on the parmesan- MORE THINGS TO DO crumbed kingklip with smoked Go to sea. Paddle a kayak in chilli butter. the bay ( dolphinadventures. Where? Milkwood Centre, co.za), go whale watching Hopwood Street, Plett ( oceanadventures.co.za) or Opening times: Daily from 11 am visit the Robberg seal colony to 10 pm. ( offshoreadventures.co.za). Contact: 044 533 4740; thefatfish.co.za Go wine tasting. Plett has its very own wine route with The Table 16 estates to visit. We can A lively pizza and burger place, with recommend Bramon and consistently good service and food. Newstead, both of which have There’s a children’s playroom and good restaurants and tasting a good selection of craft beer – try facilities. plettwinelands.com THE HEATH Red Bridge Ale, brewed in Knysna. Where? Main Street, Plett Take the kids to The Crags. The NATURES WAY FARM STALL Opening times: Daily from noon Crags is Plett’s rural action area. until late. Go kloofing with the guys from Contact: 044 533 3024 Africanyon or check out some amazing animal sanctuaries like Surf Café Birds of Eden and Monkeyland. A chilled-out, youthful restaurant Afterwards, have a bite to eat at and bar, serving a mix of Indonesian Natures Way Farm Stall. (See our HARKERVILLE SATURDAY MARKET WHERE TO EAT and Mexican dishes at good feature about The Crags in go! prices. Go for the veg, chicken or #90; cruisethecrags.co.za) BREAKFAST beef enchilada if you’re needing Le Fournil De Plett Bakery a good fill. The pancakes and chai Shop on Main Street. Unlike A real French bakery, serving milkshakes are also good. many other towns, Plett’s main drag has largely avoided scrumptious breakfasts and a range OLD NICK MIDWEEK MARKET Where? Beacon Isle Centre, Plett of freshly baked loaves and pastries. Opening times: Daily from 9 am the onslaught of chain stores. The restaurant opens onto a vibey until late. Instead, there are a number of courtyard surrounded by boutique Where? Near the N2 bridge over OUR Simon’s Bar at Contact: 044 533 6801 independent boutique-style PICK! shops and an art gallery. the Keurbooms River, about 8 km Emily Moon stores selling everything from Where? Lookout Centre, Main Street north-east of Plett. Emily Moon River Lodge is Plett Ski Boat Club clothing to home decor. Get Opening times: Daily from 7 am Opening times: Daily from 8 am an upmarket boutique hotel A local beach bar, right on Central the credit card ready… to 4 pm. to 5.30 pm. overlooking­ the Bitou River Valley Beach, serving dishes like burgers Contact: 044 533 1390 Contact: 044 535 9432; just north-east of Plett. There are and calamari. The food is basic but Go to market. For the best thyme-and-again.co.za two food options at the hotel: an tasty and well priced, and the vibe bacon and eggs this side of OUR Claire’s Cakes and Deli eclectic and laid-back pizza spot is super relaxed. the equator, stop at the PICK! Good coffee, great LE FOURNIL DE PLETT BAKERY THYME AND AGAIN SUNDOWNERS called Simon’s Bar and the Where? Central Beach, Plett Harkerville Saturday Market breakfasts and an even better Ristorante Enrico gourmet Emily Moon restaurant. Opening times: Daily from 9 am about 12 km west of Plett via range of cakes and delights for This Keurboomstrand institution The Cuban-style pulled pork, to 11 pm. the N2, which operates from the sweet tooth. Try the cheesecake closer to lunchtime, tuck into fish around. Mom and dad can visit the playground full of jungle gyms and is right at the sea, with views red pepper and rocket pizza at Contact: 044 533 2941 8 am to 1 pm every Saturday. or the blueberry pancakes. There’s and chips or a pizza. antique shop on the same premises. foefie slides. of the beach curling back Simon’s is a winner. There’s a good spread of also a self-service deli for lunch. Where? Central Beach, Plett Where? Piesang Valley Road, Plett Where? Off the N2, 8 km west of towards Plettenberg Bay. Order Where? About 7 km north of Plett; The Lookout Deck local produce, like fruit and Where? Marine Building, Opening times: Daily from 7 am Opening times: Weekdays from Plett towards Knysna. a sundowner and one of Enrico’s follow the signs from the N2. “The Deck” is on the rocks above veg, freshly baked bread Main Street, Plett until late. 8.30 am to 4 pm; Saturday and Opening times: Daily from famous fresh fish dishes for Opening times: Daily from noon Lookout Beach, serving draft beer, and pastries, nuts, even fruit Opening times: Daily from Contact: 044 533 1120; Sunday from 8.30 am to 4 pm. 8.30 am to 4 pm. dinner. They also serve great to 10.30 pm. cocktails, seafood dishes and ice cream. The curio section 8 am to 5 pm. tsogosun.com Contact: 082 534 0360 Contact: 044 532 7724; pizzas – we can recommend Contact: 044 501 2500; burgers. The hake-and-calamari includes paintings, second- Contact: 044 533 0000; the calzone. emilymoon.co.za combo goes down well with a hand book stalls and clothing. clarescakes.co.za FOR THE KIDS OUR The Heath Thyme and Again Where? Main Beach, Peroni draft. Or order the mussel For more organic, home­ PICK! The Yard A shaded spot under pine A farm stall and restaurant, with an Keurboomstrand, about 14 km pot and a bottle of white from the grown produce, visit the CHILLED OUT Beacon Island hotel There’s a good range of breakfasts trees with a restaurant serving adjoining playground in the garden. north-east of Plett. comprehensive wine list. Old Nick Midweek Market The restaurant at this iconic hotel on the menu, and a separate open sandwiches, crumpets, salads, Stop here for a delicious home- Opening times: Tuesday to OUR The Fat Fish Where? Lookout Beach, Plett at Old Nick Village, 2 km is open to visitors and it has one of children’s section. If it’s lunchtime, cheese boards and more. The ad­ made pie – we can recommend the Sunday from noon to 9.30 pm; PICK! Arguably the best fish you’ll Opening times: Daily from 9 am north of Plett via the N2 the best locations in Plett, right on order the ostrich bobotie burger. joining shop sells creative interior spinach-and-feta or curried beef. closed on Mondays. find in Plett, with an even tastier to 9 pm. ( oldnickvillage.co.za). The the rocks at Central Beach. Order The farm-style setting means there’s goods, handcrafted furniture and Get their apple pie as a takeaway Contact: 044 535 9818; wine list. Try the mezze platter with Contact: 044 533 1379, market runs from 10 am to the full English breakfast or, if it’s lots of space for the kids to run other local crafts. Outside is a mega for dessert after tonight’s braai. enricorestaurant.co.za a bottle of Newstead chardonnay, lookout.co.za 2 pm every Wednesday.

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WHERE TO STAY Where? About 16 km from Plett are well positioned and shaded, towards The Crags. Follow signs with power points. There’s a shop There are lots of holiday homes OUR Stone Cottage from the N2. on site, plus a swimming pool and available for hire in Plett. Contact PICK! Offbeat travellers should Rates: From R650 per night. clean ablution facilities. The kids an agency like the Accommodation check out this self-catering Contact: 072 200 6656; will enjoy splashing in the lagoon. Bureau ( 044 533 2101; guesthouse/backpackers’ in one whiskeycreek.co.za Where? About 2 km north of Plett, accommodationbureau.co.za); of Plett’s oldest houses. There’s a off the N2 towards Port Elizabeth. Plett Villas ( 044 535 9073; range of suites and rooms, great The Dunes Hotel and Resort Rates: From R120 per person, plettvillas.co.za) or Robberg views of the sea and a communal A friendly resort right on the beach depending on the time of year. Estates ( 044 533 2505; deck with a hot tub. Two rooms near Keurboomstrand, with suites, Contact: 044 533 2567; robbergestates.com). have full-size kitchens; the others self-catering duplex units and villas, keurboomslagoon.co.za We can also recommend have smaller kitchenettes. plus an on-site restaurant, pool and these places to stay. Where? Harker Street kids’ play area. Plettenberg Forever Resort Rates: From R850 per night for Where? About 13 km from Plett Chalets and a wonderful campsite IN TOWN up to four people. towards Keurboomstrand. in the forest on the banks of the Piesang Valley Lodge Contact: 044 533 1331; Rates: From R950 for a double Keurbooms, upriver from the Set on 15 acres inland from stonecottage.co.za room, depending on the time N2 bridge. the beach, this B&B has six of year. Where? About 10 km north- comfortable suites well suited OUTSIDE PLETT Contact: 044 535 9606; east of Plett via the N2 towards to families or couples. OUR Moonshine on dunes-resort.co.za Port Elizabeth. Where? Off Piesang Valley Road PICK! Whiskey Creek Rates: Chalet accommodation Rates: From R1 000 per night for Five creatively built self-catering OUR Keurbooms Lagoon from R750 (four-sleeper); camping up to four people. wooden cottages, set in indigenous PICK! Caravan Park from R130 per adult. Contact: 044 533 6283; forest on the edge of a valley. A A neat campsite on the banks of Contact: 044 535 9309; pvl.co.za place to escape from the world. the Keurbooms Lagoon. The stands foreverplettenberg.co.za

SPLISH SPLASH. Take the kids to the Keurbooms Lagoon, where they can build sandcastles until the sun goes down.

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