s A WINTER HOLIDAY IN PORTUGAL By CAPTAIN GRANVILLE BAKER Author of " The Walls of Constantinople," etc. IVH/i Coloured Frontispiece and 32 original drawings by the A uthor. Demy %vo, cloth gilt Captain Granville Baker, who has served in several campaigns in the British as well as the German Army, is an experienced traveller. In this volume he describes with pen, pencil, and brush the scenic charm of Portugal, the old buildings, the manners and customs of the people, and gives a history of the rise and growth of the nation, bringing his survey up to the recent important changes in the government. The author sets forth, in fascinating pages, the claims of Portugal as a winter resort. Wealth of colouring and variety of form are the most delightful features of its landscapes. The river scenery of Portugal recalls the far-famed Rhine, its mountains have an Alpine grandeur, its harbours vie in richness of beauty with those of Naples and Constantinople, its valleys and moors sport with all the colours of the rainbow, its flora being the richest in all Europe. The towns and villages have an old-world picturesqueness ; the costume of the peasantry is uniquely charming. Captain Granville Baker's volume gives a very adequate impression of these manifold attractions. SICILY IN SHADOW AND IN SUN By MAUD HOWE Author or " Sun and Shadow in Spain," " Two in Italy," etc. U'itA a viap and one hundred illustrations from photographs »nd drawings by John Elliot. Demy Zvo, cloth gilt In this, her latest and strongest book, Maud Howe tells the story of the earthquake in Sicily and Calabria and the relief work which followed. She takes us to the buried cities of Messina and Reggio, and to the ruined villages in the interior and on the coast. In a series of graphic pictures she shows us the ruin and the desolation, the suffering and despair of the few survivors. The tragedy of the earthquake is followed by the romance of the rescue. The story of the relief work as planned and organised by Ambassador Lloyd C. Griscom, and executed by Lieutenant-Commander Reginald Rowan Belknap and his men, is one of the most dramatic incidents in the history of modem rescue. The author gives us also glimpses of ancient Sicily, weaving them into the fabric of the story like a rich tapestrj' background in a portrait. SPAIN REVISITED WORKS ON SPAIN BY THE AUTHOR A RECORD OF SPANISH PAINTING MOORISH CITIES THINGS SEEN IN SPAIN THE PRADO VALAZQUEZ EL GRECO SPAIN REVISITED ^ SUMMER HO LIDAT IN QALICIA C. GASQUOINE HARTLEY (MRS. WALTER M. GALLICHAN) AUTHOR OF "LIFE THE MODELLER," " THE WEAVER'S SHUTTLE," "PICTURES IN THE TATE GALLERY," "STORIES FROM THE GREEK LEGENDS," ETC. ETC. WITH COLOURED FRONTISPIECE AND 57 ILLUSTRATIONS IN HALF-TONE LONDON STANLEY PAUL & CO 31 ESSEX STREET W.C. ,.,0- v> PRINTED BY HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD., LONDON AND AYLBSBT7SY. A LOS MUCHOS AMIGOS EN GaLICIA 7, Carlton Terrace, Child's Hill, N.W. 1911 2Gi43G / — CONTENTS CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION ! FROM LONDON TO VIGO Departure from London—Recollections of former visits to Spain Reflections on the Spanish people—An incident that will explain the temperament of the writer—An English traveller—A necessary digression—Spain the home of Romance—The right spirit for the stranger to cultivate—Havre—The voyage—The Atlantic coast Vigo's bay and hills pp. 17-28 CHAPTER n VIGO : FIRST IMPRESSIONS Vigo by day—The activity of the town—The fish-and-fruit market Gallegan women—Girls' dancing—The streets—Contrasts—Galicia of to-day—Progress in Galicia .... pp. 29-36 CHAPTER HI " THE OLD KINGDOM OF GALICIA ; " EL REINO DE GALICIA Galicia the land of glorious recollections—Geographical position Earliest inhabitants—Iberians—Celts—Phoenicians—Greek settle- ments—The Roman attempt to conquer Galicia—The Suevi and Vandals—Galicia's first golden age—The Moors—Discovery of the tomb of the apostle St. James at Compostela— Invasion of Galicia by Almanzor—Galicia's second golden age—The Gallego language —Poets—A few remarks in conclusion . pp. 37-54 9 — —— lo Contents CHAPTER IV LA BELLISINIA MONDARIZ The charm of the Galician climate—Motor travelling—Spanish chauffeurs —Perils of the drive—Galician landscape—The fertility of the soil —Vineyards—Maize-fields—Flowers—Market-day in a small town Mountains—Arrival at Mondariz—Character of the place Fiesta of Santa Maria del Carmen—The procession—Native dancing Reflections on the Gallegan peasants—Bottle factory of Mondariz Village of San Pedro—A drive to the castle of Sobroso and Stone of Arcos ........ pp. 55-76 CHAPTER V THE OLD TOWN OF PONTEVEDRA Another motor drive—Incidents of the journey—Pontevedra—Magnifi- cent situation—History of the town—The mareantes—Santa Maria el Grande—Santo Domingo—Aspects of the town—Marin and Com- barro—Monte Perreiro, the estate where the Lerez waters are bottled—A charming scene of work . pp. 77-87 CHAPTER VI THE ISLAND OF LA TOJA From Pontevedra to La Toja—The Jewel Island of the sea—The Grand Hotel—La Toja baths—A morning walk—Life on the island A regatta—Gallegan music—Folk-songs—Dancing—The muiiiera again—A conversation ..... pp. 88-103 CHAPTER VII THE WAY TO SANTIAGO The spell of Santiago—The legend of St. James—The prosperity of the city—Pilgrims—Intellectual brilliancy—Diego Delmirez—Jet- workers and money-changers—The scallop-shell—Illustrations from the Codex of Calistus—Music—The Slavs—The religious ceremony in the cathedral— Santiago of to-day—The city of the lover and the saint—Reflections and remarks on the Gallegan character pp. 104-120 — ——1— Contents 1 CHAPTER VIII SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA : THE CATHEDRAL St. James's Way—The journey from La To j a to Santiago—Arosa Bay Arrival at Santiago—A first view of the ca.th.edra.\—Puerta de los Platerias—A walk around the cathedral—History of the building Comparison with St. Sernin of Toulouse—Interior of the cathedral —The crypt—Sculpture and statuary—The Gallegans' aptitude for carving Portico Gloria . —The de • PP- 121-145 CHAPTER IX SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: THE TOWN Aspects of the town—Modern Institutions—The Royal Hospital—Open- air school—The University—The Asylum of Conje—Numerous churches—Choir-stalls of San Martin—Altar of San Lorenzo Convent of San Payo—The Colegiata de Sar—The streets—Their contrasts Fiesta in the Alameda . • PP- 146-159 CHAPTER X ARCHITECTURE AND SCULPTURE IN GALICIA The aptitude of the Gallegans for architecture and sculpture—A com- parison between the Gallegans and the Aragonese—Characteristics of Spanish architecture—The'construction of a great Spanish church —The architecture of Galicia—The origin of Romanesque—The horse-shoe arch—Santa Comba de Banda—Importance of Roman- esque in Galicia—The church-building period—The cathedrals of Lugo, Mondonedo, Tuy, and Orense—Gothic in Galicia—Later developments of architecture—Sculpture—Gregorio Hernandez Handicrafts—Carved wooden choir-stalls . pp. 160-181 CHAPTER XI LA CORUNA England's connection with Galicia—A digression on patriotism—Quota- tion from Major Martin Hume—Maria Pita—Journey from Santiago to Corufia—A village fair—Situation of La Corufia—Arrival in the town—A fiesta week—The old town and the new town—A visit to —A 12 Contents the theatre—Moore's grave in the garden of San Carlos—Further reflections on patriotism—Goya's etchings, " Los Desastres de la Guerra "—The house where Moore died—The Torre de Hercules A visit to the military barracks—Military sports—The ladies of Coruna—A walk in the town—The churches of Santiago and Santa Maria PP- 182-200 CHAPTER XII A VISIT TO FERR0L5 Spain's great arsenal The road to Ferrol—Betanzos—The Arsenal—Four British companies —Certain reflections—A comparison of the English and the Spaniards —The town of Ferrol—Return to Coruna—Ferrol Harbour— morning's walk in Coruna—Incidents of the streets—Jardin de Men- dez Nunez—A beautiful c/^arr^r^ ... pp. 201-212 CHAPTER XIII country life in galicia Rural Galicia—A village posada—Third-class travelling—A fisliing holiday —The Miiio and Sil—Tuy, the starting-point of our travels—Some remarks for the angler—My first journey in a mixta train—The village of Arbo—Gallegan peasants—Down the Mifio—Shad fishing —A day at Ribadavia—We plan an adventure . pp. 213-236 CHAPTER XIV LOS PEARES : OUR HOME IN THE GORGE Orense—The springs of Las Burgas—Arrival at Los Peares—A walk of terror—The end of our adventure—Life in a Gallegan peasant home —The wild Sil—The festival at San Esteban . pp. 237-254 CHAPTER XV THE WILD SIL AND THE HAMLET OF MATEROSA We leave Los Peares—Impressions of Monforte—Arrival at Ponferrada —Magnificent situation of the town—A good place for anglers Gallegan harvesters—Our friends at the -posada—A visit to a club We plan an excursion to Materosa—Angel Gancedo—A journey in a native diligence—Life at Materosa—Native fishermen—The end of our holiday pp. 255-275 — —— Contents 13 CHAPTER XVI THE PEOPLE OF GALICIA TO-DAY The Gallegan character—The absurd opinion of Gallegan stupidity Education—Vigo's School of Arts and Industries—Some facts of pro- gress—A comparison between the Gallegan and the Spanish character —Their Celtic inheritance—''The inimitable Gallegans"—Famous Gallegans of the past and of the present—The effects of the late war—The real spirit of the Gallegans—The spiritual instinct of the race pp. 276-290 CHAPTER XVn LAS GALLEGAS : THE WOMEN OF GALICIA Racial type best studied in the women of the race—Traces of gynecocracy in northern Spain Mujeres varoniles—Galicia the country that produces fine women—Reasons for this—Physical traits —Spanish women's way of walking—The burden-bearers of Galicia—Does this heavy labour injure women ? —Women full of energy—Vigour of the women to an advanced age—Spanish women in literature —Special qualities of the Spanish feminine character —Women self- contained, strong, and independent, but also gracious and gentle The senora and the sehorita—An attempt to analyse their charm —Three great Gallegan women—Concepcion Arenal, Emilia Pardo Bazan—Rosalia de Castro—Remarks and reflections pp.