H FY C N SCOTCH O E whiskiesL I WHISKY N L V L E Y R G A R R AY A REVIEW

EDITION 7 SPRING 1997 PEAT BEFORE THE BEAK* Our delight in the news of Glenmorangie acquiring Ardbeg will be evident else- where in this edition. We firmly believe that, of the many bidders, the (16?) Men of the East are the best for the job. We would also express our thanks to Allied Distillers for making Ardbeg available to a competent competitor, a bold deci- sion but there is plenty of room for ex- pansion in the peaty whisky sector and the big push will be easier with Glenmorangie’s help. Ardbeg is something of a matter of pride in Argyll—the bottle sports a stark but effective label with a subtle but distinc- tive type-face reflecting the Celtic her- itage of the county and islands. The malt inside is the most extreme whisky pro- duced anywhere in the world. Histori- cally the level of peating has been er- ratic (owing to an absence of fans in the drying kilns) giving rise to a variable quality product but when it is good, Ardbeg is the best. ARDBEG SAFE! DISTILLER’S BEEF For the last period of production, that Good news! At the end of February it Watch your butcher’s slab. If the mar- between 1989 and 1996, Ardbeg’s malt was announced that Glenmorangie plc, keting boys are awake we may be see- has been prepared at Port Ellen owners of the Glenmorangie and Glen ing Scotch Whisky beef soon. maltings with a peating specification Moray distilleries had acquired Ardbeg Research shows that animal feeds aris- some 25% greater than that of neigh- distillery and stock from Allied Distill- ing from the making of malt whisky ap- bours Laphroaig or Lagavulin, this ers, owners of neighbouring Laphroaig pear to be “spectacularly efficient” in the means very heavy and consistently Distillery. production of prime beef cattle. peated spirit thus overcoming Ardbeg’s Edinburgh based Glenmorangie is to A herd of cattle on the Wester Elchies quality variance. pay a purchase price of £7 million which Farm at Aberlour is being finished en- So why the lesson in elementary beaks down as £5m for maturing and tirely on a diet based upon distillers malting? These days, such a significant vatted stock and empty casks, £0.3m for feeds, home-grown barley, grass and hay. number of our customers are bemoan- the Ardbeg brand, and the balance for Distillers feeds are a combination of bar- ing the reduction in ‘character’ in all the distillery assets and surrounding ley dark grains—the protein and energy- three heavily peated Islay whiskies that land. Glenmorangie has also negotiated rich pellets made from draff and pot ale there must be some truth in the matter. a three year payment schedule for the syrup; and malt residual pellets—the Just recently Lagavulin has joined value of the stock. nutritious dried rootlets remaining at Laphroaig and Bowmore in the dock— Peter Darbyshire, Managing Director of the end of the malting process. accused of being ‘toned down’. This may Glenmorangie, has told Loch Fyne Whis- The value of such feeds has been known not be a matter of peating alone, matu- kies that it is hoped that production will to farmers for hundreds of years. The ration conditions or cask recipe will have restart in August after some £500,000 difference in this case is that distillers an influence, but if true there will be has been spent on repairs. feeds are the main part of the diet. good commercial reasons for this. A mainstream bottling of Ardbeg will be Farmer Eddie Aldridge says that the Our plea is simple: available early next year as will several animals are gaining weight much more Please, please, Glenmorangie, never “wonderful old Ardbegs, superb vin- quickly and that some of them could be tone Ardbeg down. tages” taken from the extensive inven- ready much earlier than expected. *Note for our overseas readers; a ‘beak’ tory of 17 years and older stock. The final test will be soon when the qual- is slang for a judge or magistrate. More on page 5. ity of the beef on the plate is known.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 1 I started here before I left school; I spent six months last year as we are now trad- THE ALL-ROUNDER the summertime taking people round or ing in over 30 countries. We have a sales painting or whatever. After school I and marketing manager, but there are spent three years with the Bank of Scot- certain markets where I have to go, I’ve land and three with Wm. Teacher & got into a rut. I love it but I hate the Sons, who were a family business in travelling and loathe aeroplanes. The those days. I came back here in 1974 and world is far too small, too convenient. shortly after Father went onto a three- I’d like to turn the clock back 50 years day week! and go by rail and boat—it would be I spent the first eight months just look- wonderful! ing at what we did. I thought there’s no We try to get to see all our importers/ point in upsetting the Distillery Man- distributors at least once a year. We pro- ager as he was doing a good job doubling duce the product and marketing backup. the capacity of the distillery without los- We call on them to discuss things and ing a day’s production. I suggested to give them suggestions, ways of selling father that I should travel around the Glenfarclas. It’s a two way thing. world for three months and meet all LFW: How’s Biz? these people that were selling I’m not complaining, 1996 was all right. Glenfarclas for us. I couldn’t find any If it rains or snows production will be records of the last visits and was in- satisfactory. It’s been a very dry winter John Grant is the head J & G Grant, formed that usually they came to us! and we need snow to fill our springs at one of very few remaining family During my travels everyone was amazed the top of Benrinnes or come the sum- run whisky companies. that someone had come out to see them! mer we may dry up. We took the decision that our future lay As regards bottled sales, (that is LFW: What’s your job? in bottled sales, particularly with the Glenfarclas single malt rather than fill- I’ve never had to write a job description excess capacity we’d just built in. ing casks for others), I’m optimistic. but the title on my business card is Man- Until the early 1970s, the distillery ran Europe and Asia will be difficult because aging Director which is pretty accurate. flat out producing ‘fillings’ for blenders of the pound’s exchange rate. The elec- It’s only when you start travelling and to mature. In those days we didn’t have tion here is causing uncertainty also. meeting people that you need a descrip- all this haggling over pennies—the price Long term also I’m optimistic, not full tion, not for the people here. Thankfully was set after the ‘pot still meeting’—all of doom and gloom as I was ten years we’re still of a size where everybody the maltsters would turn up and prices ago when distilleries were being closed. knows everybody. were agreed so you had a price list for Now I think some will close and some LFW: You’re a direct descendant of the following season. You then had this will reopen. The news about Ardbeg is the founder? wonderful job of allocating production great. I’m very happy that it has gone to Yes. We bought the farm of Rechlerich instead of having to go out and sell it. a safe pair of hands. It’s good news for in 1865. The family had been farming LFW: Does a reduced number of the people of Islay. in Blairfindy behind Glenlivet since the whisky companies mean a reduced LFW: What do you think makes 1600’s and this was bought as a place to demand for your fillings? Glenfarclas different? rest stock and fatten them before going Fewer customers—bigger orders! I think We use the same malted barley as oth- onto market. Rechlerich had a distillery not being part of a big group is an ad- ers, I do not agree that the malt affects in the corner of a field and for five years vantage; we’re not directly competing the quality of the spirit. If it is properly the founder of Glenfarclas put his son with our customers. Agreed we sell a few peated and I can’t tell the difference here to farm. The distillery was a side- bottles of malt but that’s not upsetting when I nose the spirit I’m happy. That line and subcontracted to John Smith them—it’s a niche market. Luckily what and the yield, 420 litres per tonne or who in 1870 went onto build we make is the best and the blenders 380—that’s the difference between good Cragganmore. like to have it in their blend and long and bad malt. Unlike our friends on the There was a fairly nomadic population may it continue. other side of the river, we don’t specify a from the factories of the industrial revo- We’ve bottled Glenfarclas since the particular strain. With the variety of lution, who came to work on the land 1870s but then only as a hobby, most woods we’re going to change it over the from sowing time to harvest and then important was producing fillings. next twelve years maturation anyway. return south. After the harvest, if you Now bottle sales are very significant to We do have a different water source so had a wee distillery in the corner of a us and the percentage that we keep for there will be differing trace elements field, which is what this was, you could ourselves has increased but the day we which may have some influence. All dis- keep one or two good people on full time. keep all of our production for ourselves tilleries are using similar yeast and so It was a hobby until 1896 when the won’t happen in my lifetime. it is safe to say that the wash being pro- whole place was rebuilt. After that we LFW: How often do you get your duced by each distillery is pretty much were more interested in distilling than overalls on? the same. It is what you do after that farming. I used to pride myself that I could do that matters. We have very big stills Even now there’s no great spread of rela- every job here, but with new technology with a boiling pot—the bulge at the bot- tives involved in the company. In the old taking over I couldn’t do a shift in the tom of the neck—which I believe is a days of death duties and inheritance tax mash or still house. I know what has to great quality control aspect and we are it was better to be more devolved but be done but not how, which buttons to still direct fired. That makes a huge dif- now there is only a handful, my two sis- push, valves to open. That annoys me ference, I don’t know why but you do get ters, two cousins and my son who is 20 but at the end of the day you can’t do different flavours. years old. That’s it. There are only three everything. Now I’m spending a lot of We once put steam coils in a still and Directors, myself, Father who is Chair- time away from home, I’m the last to get ran it for a week. One week, that was man and an accountant friend in Glas- a call out when something goes wrong; enough. The fuel saving was great, but gow, so board meetings are less formal. although we do live on site. we found that we took the body and guts I have been accused of running a dicta- LFW: How much time is spent trav- out and it just wasn’t Glenfarclas. torship, up to a point true, but it means elling overseas? You can fingerprint a malt whisky with we can be flexible with instant decisions! Too much. For me that was more than a gas chromatograph and by compari- PAGE 2 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD son you can tell which distillery it comes Sales plummeted so we decided to give supporting these products, there is no from. We sent samples away and they it its own identity as we were up to a marketing back-up. came back suggesting that it was simi- few thousand cases, so we registered the I support wholeheartedly anybody who lar to that of another Speyside distill- brand name Glenfarclas ‘105’. is promoting and selling Scotch Whisky. ery! We were not flattered at all! I see a blender has brought out a 105 What I do find objectionable is that we This was during the 1970s when we had blend for the duty free market but it is spend a lot of time and money building to investigate fuel efficiency because of 105° American proof which is 52.5% vol. the brand and ensuring the quality so rocketing oil prices. The theory was That’s annoying, imitation is a form of that when someone buys a bottle of good; reduce fuel by 40% by using the flattery, but if you’re putting out a 105, Glenfarclas they are entitled to expect heat from the wash still to drive the why American proof? We’ve never used a certain quality. As the owners of the spirit still, but as nobody was going to the American system in this country. It’s distillery and the trade mark we are re- buy it we took the steam out and went not doing me any good either. sponsible for the brand—what we put back to direct firing with real flames. in bottle has our name on it and if there There are other distilleries which have is anything wrong, the buck stops right adopted internal heating. It’s more effi- We own here. cient but I think it gives a more bland I feel very strongly about this. We own spirit—you lose a lot of the character; Glenfarclas, we bottle it, leave it to us! that’s what happened here anyway. Glenfarclas, LFW: Yet you were instrumental in The still house is a pendulum; every helping the Scotch Malt Whisky So- time you swing to quality you have to ciety get started. sacrifice quantity, and vice versa. Half we bottle it, We will take a hogshead and rack it into the fun of this industry is that every- octaves (ten gallon casks) and then sell body has different ideas and parameters them to people round about, bankers, and thankfully we all produce different leave it to us! farmers, policemen—people who enjoy spirits. Life would be awfully boring if LFW: You object to others bottling their whisky. It’s a wee bit of fun and we all made the same thing. Then it Glenfarclas. many have always bought their octave would come down to that terrible four Indeed, we have court actions going on. here, cash up front, into the back of the letter word—cost. With a few exceptions these are one or Land Rover and off they go. They then LFW: How relevant is still size to the two man operations cashing in for a have a party in the kitchen decanting it product? quick buck and they can do an awful lot into old milk bottles and such, it’s great If you compare us with Macallan who of harm by bottling things which are not fun! It’s never sold on the open market produce a similar quality product, we good. For example, one company has but used as presents or offered as a have great big stills and they very small. bought a cask of Glenfarclas from a bro- dram, it’s a talking point. I have no Our raw spirit has a more distinctive ker—firstly I’m annoyed that they’ve put qualms because we’ve checked the qual- and sweeter nose than theirs. our name on the bottle but more impor- ity first. What we should do is tanker a load of tantly it’s the quality of what’s inside Pip Hills had never tasted anything like our wash across the river and vice versa that concerns me. It’s from a cask that this and started buying octaves with his and see what we would make. That in my opinion is not good—it is a fact of friends in Edinburgh. They then thought would be fun! Then to take the experi- life that you do get bad casks and bad up the idea of the Society and I said I ment to its conclusion we should take a whisky. We reject about a dozen or so would supply one cask at a time for tanker to Islay! every year that we would never use for members provided that they did not LFW: Which of your range are you a Glenfarclas bottling simply because state it was Glenfarclas and there was happiest with? the quality is not there, perhaps the no reference to the distillery. I’d give The 15 year old is my favourite. It’s the wood may have been a little sour. We them a cask of my choosing which I only one we bottle at 46%. We played nose every cask before we fill them but thought was a good example of what we around with the strength and everybody there are some things that you can’t pick make so if it were recognised as preferred it. It’s not a commercial up. To put this out as a single cask is Glenfarclas there’s no harm and I’m not strength—it should be at 40 or 43 like beyond belief! The danger is that some- going to be upset. That’s why all of their everything else—but we like it and it one thinks, “That’s Glenfarclas?—That’s bottlings are numbered only. It was a sells very well. Our 30 year old is very horrible!” gentleman’s agreement with Pip. good value for money. We’re lucky, after These bottlers who buy a cask and take But now they’ve bought casks from bro- 30 years whisky can become too woody. a chance that they won’t get prosecuted, kers that we’ve had no control of, and LFW: You were the very first to pro- ought to respect the proprietor’s trade they’ve released a list identifying which duce a cask strength bottling. mark and the fact that they are build- distillery the numbers are which I think That was in 1968. We thought it would ing their brands. The concept of offering is wrong. That is against the spirit of be something different for Christmas a choice of bottlings is great but they the thing; the deal was there were no presents to bottle one cask at strength should pick the lesser known distiller- names, bottles with a number or code and see what reaction there would be. ies where the proprietor is not offering only. The concept is excellent but let’s So we selected a sherry hoggie and bot- the product in bottle. not upset the producers. tled it, using its actual strength, 105° If the bottler has bought a cask and it’s LFW: Your desert island dram? proof; the standard Glenfarclas was 70°. bad, he’s not going to reject it, he’s got to I’m biassed. I don’t drink much whisky We got 27 cases out of it and I don’t know bottle it. If nobody knows where it came at home, I drink enough malt overseas how much we gave away that Christ- from I don’t get excited about it provided while on my travels. I’m a wine or beer mas but by January we started getting our name isn’t on the bottle. Our terms man, but I do enjoy a dram of our 15 calls asking where it could be bought. of sale state that you cannot bottle the year old and from a good old fashioned That was the birth of ‘105’. single malt without our permission—a tumbler too. We never spent anything advertising or condition that is not a restraint of trade If I picked another product it would be marketing it and it was unique. I’m very but merely there to protect our trade Macallan, or Longmorn. One of the nic- proud of it. mark. est whiskies made in this part of the What really put the fly in the ointment I know of 17 different ‘independent bot- world is by our closest neighbours at was when we went metric! Dear 105° tlers’ doing this now. It’s got out of hand. Cragganmore and I like Aultmore too. had to go and it became 60% volume. These people are not spending a penny LFW: Thank you.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 3 which the butt and hogshead, or ‘hoggie’, now promoting a range of whiskies WORDS OF WOOD are the most popular. Casks are usually which have spent the first twelve years Gavin Smith known in the trade as ‘wood’, and oak is of their lives in American oak before be- We live in times when science has elimi- the optimum timber, as it is hard, yet ing transferred to former port pipes, nated so many of the mysteries of life sufficiently porous for the spirit to sherry butts and Madeira drums for a that it is a pleasure to be able to report ‘breathe’ during maturation. American final period of maturation. The result is that the production of malt whisky con- white oak and Spanish oak are gener- whiskies of increased complexity, which tinues to defy totally sober analysis. The ally considered to be the best varieties certainly merit tasting. men in white lab coats may be able to for whisky casks, as other types tend to The practice of transferring whisky be- analyse and isolate most of the variables be too porous. tween casks during maturation is known that go to make a great malt, but the As long ago as the early eighteenth cen- as ‘finishing’ or ‘double-wooding’, and the cloning of distillery products to create a tury it was accepted that the use of Speyside distillery Balvenie also pro- range of identical McDolly malts sherry casks improved maturing whisky, duces a whisky which has been sherry- remains a happily remote prospect. and ex-sherry wood became a staple of finished. The Balvenie Double Wood It is universally accepted that one of the the Scotch industry. One advantage of spends twelve years in ‘first-fill’ and ‘sec- most significant variables which shapes using former sherry casks is that their ond-fill’ Bourbon casks before being the ultimate whisky we drink is matu- initial contents removes a considerable transferred to sweet oloroso casks for a ration, and in particular the type of wood amount of tannin from the wood, lead- turther six to twelve months. Not sur- in which the spirit is stored. The mak- ing to a smoother whisky flavour. prisingly, the colour of the finished ers of the Glenmorangie reckon that whisky is notably more amber than the 70% of the characteristics of whisky standard spirit, matured exclusively in derive from the wood. Clearly, the cask American oak, and has a rich body and is a great deal more than a container. a long finish. It has been suggested that What happens during maturation is it borders on the liqueur. chemically very complex, but essentially A ‘first-fill’ cask is new to whisky, while the spirit draws flavour and colour from a ‘second-fill’ cask is one which has al- the wood of the cask, and higher alcohols ready been used once for whisky matu- are tranformed into esters and other ration, and when being filled for a sec- compounds with subtle aromas. Today the only malt to be matured ex- ond time the distiller must take into ac- The rate at which maturation takes clusively in former sherry casks is count the type of whisky which it for- place varies from whisky to whisky. Gen- Macallan, which uses those formerly merly held. Obviously, a first filling of erally, the more fully flavoured the filled with oloroso. This specification of an Islay malt would influence the fin- whisky—say an Islay or a Speyside—the sherry type is important, for there is a ished flavour of a delicate Lowland just longer it takes to reach optimum matu- very discernible difference in character as much as different types of sherry. rity. Fifteen years may produce the best between two samples of the same whisky Casks may be re-used for whisky sev- Islays, while a Lowland may not improve which have been matured in, for exam- eral times, although the maturing effect much beyond the age of eight. ple, ex-fino and ex-amontillado casks. of the cask diminishes with each filling. The environment in which maturation Sherry casks tend to be ideal for robust A new cask which has not previously occurs is significant, with a damp ware- Speyside whiskies such as Macallan and been used or treated is known as ‘plain’. house causing spirit to lose strength but Singleton, but they are not suitable for Gordon & MacPhail have experimented maintain bulk, and this is generally con- all malts. That most characterful of with whiskies matured entirely in port sidered better for maturation than a dry whiskies, Laphroaig, is only matured in and brandy casks, and Springbank of location where strength is less affected former Bourbon casks as sherry is con- Campbeltown released a quantity of but bulk falls. The amount of bulk lost sidered inappropriate to its finished fla- whisky in 1991 which had been matured during maturation is known as the ‘an- vour. Several members of the panel tak- in ex-rum casks. Although ‘double- gels’ share’, and the excise authorities ing part in a tasting session for Decanter wooding’ experiments have taken place allow for a loss of up to 2% per year. More magazine in 1993 expressed concern at in the trade for years, until recently the than that and they start looking for a what they considered the over-sherrying practice had never been tried on a com- secret bung hole and a long straw. of a number of malts, feeling that the mercial scale, but a tendency towards The ‘breathing’ of the casks—slight con- sherry was smothering other valuable increasingly sophisticated consumer traction in winter and expansion in sum- characteristics. tastes in malts, and a gratifying level of mer—can also cause quite distinct American oak produces a lighter-col- growth in that sector of the whisky in- changes to the character of the finished oured and less sweet spirit. dustry, has prompted the Balvenie and whisky in respect of local atmosphere. The best selling Glenmorangie single Glenmorangie ventures. For example, whiskies matured on the malt is matured in American oak, ex- The process of maturation is an expen- Campbeltown peninsula tend to develop Bourbon casks, and more specifically ex- sive one for the distiller, whose product a salty aroma and palate. Bourbon casks made from oak which frequently sits in a warehouse earning The size and type of cask used, as well originates in the Ozark Mountains of nothing for up to two decades and de- as the locality in which spirit is stored, Missourri. Ex-Bourbon casks have been clining in bulk and strength along the are further variable factors in matura- regarded favourably by the whisky in- way, so there has been considerable pres- tion. Generally, the smaller the cask the dustry because of their availability as sure from the men in grey suits on the greater the loss through absorption, well as their suitability. Until recently, men in white coats to develop a way of transfusion, exposure to heat, damp or Bourbon and rye whiskeys had, by law, artificially speeding up this process. cold, and therefore whisky matures more to be matured in charred oak casks Despite their best efforts, however, the quickly than it would in a larger cask. which could not be re-used, so there was optimum method of producing a well- In a 55 gallon hogshead some 60 sq. ins a plentiful supply for the Scotch whisky matured whisky remains to fill good of wood is in contact with each gallon of industry to acquire. casks with good spirit and sit back and whisky, while in a 110 gallon butt that The American oak used by Glen- allow the slow magic to work. figure falls to around 48 ins. morangie preserves the inherent deli- ‘Cask’ is a generic term, like ‘barrel’, and cacy of the whisky, but Glenmorangie A-Z of Whisky by Gavin Smith is published there are a number of different sizes of has been at the forefront of recent ex- in May by NWP, price £7.99 cask in use in the whisky industry, of periments with different woods, and is

PAGE 4 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD ARDBEG H FY C N LOCH FYNE WHISKIES O E cclaim from throughout Scotland L whiskies in association with

I greeted Edinburgh based N L V L E Y The George Hotel, Inveraray R G A R Glenmorangie plc’s announce- R AY A THE GEORGE HOTEL ment that it had bought Islay’s Ardbeg. is proud to present Glenmorangie is one of the strongest A SEASON OF CELEBRITY performing scotch whisky companies; their principal single malt brand (Glenmorangie) is the best selling malt WHISKY TASTING in Scotland and second best in the UK, (Glenfiddich is number one). EVENINGS Loch Fyne Whiskies spoke with Manag- ing Director Peter Darbyshire soon af- ter Glenmorangie announced the addi-

tion of the powerful, peaty Ardbeg to Drinking the health of the Duke of Rothesay, 1872 Highland Society, their portfolio of light, delicate Glenmorangie and midpoint Speysider, Glen Moray. “This complements our range perfectly” Darbyshire told LFW “the desirability of a good Islay malt has long been recognised by our company which has had aspirations for either Ardbeg, Laphroaig or Lagavulin. Con- sumers are fascinated by the taste of Islay. After a proper tutored tasting they go away raving”. Despite a ten year gap in production there are very significant stocks of older than 17 years and under seven. It is early days for any decisions regarding Thursday 18th September, 7 for 7.30pm. Price £25.00 the final manifestation of the standard Iain Stothard, Esq International Malt Whisky Specialist, Matthew Gloag & Son bottled malt, according to Darbyshire, Thursday 22nd May, 7pm, Price £12.00 Gourmet Evening Jim McEwan, Esq “Who needs wine with a meal?” “We are doing all the blending and test- Distillery Manager, Morrison Bowmore Distillers Whisky as an accompaniment to a meal works as well as wine. Donald “Considering Bowmore” Clark, Proprietor of The George dusts off his apron, brandishes his ing to see what at what age Ardbeg is Jim takes us through the Bowmore range highlighting the changing steels and joins forces with Iain Stothard to demonstrate a mouth- going to be at its best; obviously we characteristics amongst the 12, 17, 21, 25 and magnificent 30 year old! watering combination of Scots food and Scotch whisky flavours. There will be a quiz with prizes. Cook’s recipe and suggestion pack will be available. haven’t firmed up on that yet. There will Evening concludes with a light buffet. Price includes four course gourmet meal and coffee. • • be a mainstream Ardbeg by early next Thursday 26th June, 7pm, Price £12.00 Thursday 2nd October, 7pm Price £12.00 Richard Paterson, Esq John Campbell & John Rutherford, Esqs year or perhaps Christmas this year.” Master Blender, Whyte & Mackay Brand Heritage Director & Manager, Allied Distillers “Your Dram” “The Whisky Trade — in a nosing glass” The company plan to repeat the SPUR Learn the history of blending Scotch Whisky while tasting some rare John Rutherford introduces the new single malts from Allied Distillers. program which investigates the effects samples of blend and malt. Then take part in a practical session and John Campbell guides us into the creation of some of the exclusive aged competition to produce your own ideal blended Scotch for which the Ballantine’s range via a sampling of the components including the little various conditions have on the matura- top blender will award certificates. known ‘Cromarty Malt’. Evening concludes with a light buffet. Evening concludes with a light buffet. tion of the spirit including age, ware- • • Price includes your whisky. Value for money guaranteed. There will be offers on selected featured whiskies during the evening. house location and style. This builds up All participants will take home a Loch Fyne Whiskies melamine malt whisky appreciation mat (value £4.90). Tickets from Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. Credit Card bookings 01 499 302219 a picture that allows them to predict Standing on tables & chairs prohibited. “Sporrans over 1.5kg must be muzzled in accordance with local bye-laws.” with certainty what will happen with any spirit put in cask. For the last five Five of the Scotch Whisky industry’s 22nd May: Jim McEwan, Distillery years 100,000 samples of Glenmorangie great experts and raconteurs travel to Manager, Morrison Bowmore Distillers: have been subjected to this intricate re- Inveraray over the summer to take part ‘Considering Bowmore’. search and the Ardbeg tests are now in a very exciting programme of enter- 26th June: Richard Paterson, Master under way. taining and fascinating whisky tasting Blender, Whyte & MacKay: We asked if there were any plans to re- sessions. We hope that many of you will ‘Your Dram’. peat the wood finishing process whereby be able to attend at least one. 18th September: Gourmet Evening the whisky is transferred to a variety of The events are being held in The George Iain Stothard, International Malt alternative casks (in the case of Hotel across from our shop and proprie- Whisky Specialist, Matthew Gloag: Glenmorangie: port, madeira or sherry) tor ‘Big D’ Donald Clark is as determined ‘Who needs wine with a meal?’ for a few years prior to bottling. as we and the celebrities are that a very 2nd October: John Campbell & John Darbyshire said “Until we’ve had time enjoyable evening is on offer. Rutherford, Brand Heritage Director & to run more tests, we honestly don’t The events include one gourmet evening Manager, Allied Distillers: know. The core of Ardbeg is authentic- (£25) and three tasting evenings with ‘The Whisky Trade — in a nosing glass’. ity. The peating will be at the traditional light buffet (£12). There are no addi- Tickets Ardbeg levels, but not with a floor tional charges and during each evening Spaces are limited and only available maltings because you will not get a con- there will be deals on some of the fea- from LFW, so please book early. sistent level of peat in the malt which tured whiskies. You will also take home Accommodation in Inveraray is often causes variance in the quality of spirit. a special whisky tasting mat. All of our scarce, so it’s best to arrange where to We will take our own Ardbeg cut peat to celebs are going to be doing something stay at the time you book. The fastest the maltings at Port Ellen”. a little special—to find out more inspect should ’phone The George now on 01499 Darbyshire added, “Please alert your our poster above with suitable magnify- 302111; there are new bedrooms and customers that there will be some su- ing equipment. they’re magnificent! perb older vintages of Ardbeg available For those of you without a spare bottle Other information on where to stay can soon; we have enough stock to start re- base to peer through, the relevant de- be discussed with Inveraray Tourist cruiting fans now.” tails are: Information Office, tel: 01499 302063.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 5 “Like all the best things in life, whisky is a fairly simple business that can easily be made to sound exclusive and impressive by a judi- cious application of the arcane and a liberal sprinkling of jargon. Knowledge of whisky, like love, is a matter of a basic theme made more enjoyable by an infi- nite number of variations. The really experienced may even find themselves able to combine the two, a thing real ale enthusiasts could never do.” David Milstead Bluffer’s Guide to Whisky NEW CUSTOMER PAGE The busy summer season in the shop is the time when Loch Fyne Whiskies wel- comes new customers to our growing band of happy whisky fans. The follow- ing pages are for those who are develop- ing an interest in the marvels of Scotch OFFICIAL, OWNERS OR ORIGINAL BOTTLINGS (OB) Whisky. We feature some explanation of When bottled by the owner of the distillery, we call such bottlings official, owners or the bottlings from our Stock List—OB, original bottlings. These ‘official’ presentations are examples of the best in quality, C, G&M, MM, S etc., but we’ll start with packaging and design. Here is the range of ages and strengths from Glenfarclas. by far the most often asked question: I can’t rember the name but it came water, malted barley and yeast only. to add character. It is also matured in in a dumpy green bottle, can you What is the difference between a Scotland in oak barrels for at least three help? single malt and a double malt? years before being used for blending. Bunnahabhain! (Boo-na-ha-venn). A single malt is the product of one malt Occasionally you may come across a sin- What is whisky? whisky distillery and that one distillery gle grain whisky but its use is mainly Literally the alcohol spirit produced by only. There is no such thing as a double as a carrier for malts in blends. distilling fermented cereals. Whisky is malt unless you are with your rich fa- The fourth category of whisky is a produced in many countries, historically ther-in-law at the bar (technically—‘a vatted malt which is a blend of several those that had climates more suited to large one’). Single malts are enjoying malts but no grain. Malt bottles lacking growing cereals rather than grape/wine considerable acclaim at the moment, the word ‘single’ may well be vatted; production. they are no longer Scotland’s biggest other clues are descriptions such as Scotch Whisky is the world’s most popu- secret. Their intensity and complexity ‘Pure Malt’ or ‘100% malt’. lar spirit and must be (amongst other of flavours, previously a handicap to A single malt is a happy accident of sci- things) made and matured in an oak bar- wider sales, are now being sought ence, nature and circumstance. Blended rel for not less than three years and in throughout the world. and vatted whiskies are one man’s opin- Scotland, otherwise it cannot be called Malt whisky is one of four types of ion of what he thinks you think a good Scotch. Scotch. The most common is blended whisky should taste like. Many mem- How is whisky made? whisky, a mix of many different single bers of the industry claim to appreciate Easy, mix some processed grain with malts and grain whiskies prepared by a blended Scotch the most. water, add yeast and let it ferment in blender using his sense of smell and Why don’t you stock a certain brand the same way that beer is produced. Boil years of experience. 92% of all bottled I had once? up your beer and collect the steam which whisky sold is blended whisky and it is Whisky brands tend to fade away faster will be mostly alcohol. Voilà, whisky! appreciated the world over for its satis- than get created as the industry changes Throw this away as it is probably poi- fying subtlety and complexity. from hundreds of brand owners to just son, your hair will fall out—and apart Grain whisky is industrially produced a few. As big companies expand by the from that it’s illegal. from a variety of cereals including acquisition of small they find that they Scotch whisky must contain barley and malted barley. The spirit is not fully dis- have two brands on the same shop shelf Malt Whisky be made exclusively from tilled—a degree of impurity is required at the same price so one has to go. Some

CADENHEAD (C) MURRAY SIGNATORY Campbeltown in Argyll is McDAVID (MM) (S) home to inde- A new name on the A range of malts pendent bottler Loch Fyne Whiskies bottled at both Cadenhead’s, list, Murray McDavid 43% and at cask who buy and are gaining great re- strength. mature casks of spect for a small range Edinburgh based whisky and bot- of excellent and unu- Signatory tle each cask in- sual whiskies bottled Vintage Whisky dividually at at 46%, in our view this Company has natural cask is the perfect bottling been enjoying strength, occa- strength, just strong success with sionally as high enough to tingle the some excellent as 67% alcohol. toungue! rare bottlings.

PAGE 6 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD all independent bottlings look for the distillery name which will be in smaller print. What are ‘Cask Strength’ Whiskies? Whisky matures in the barrel at about 65%. Prior to bottling it is diluted to 40% so as to incur the least alcohol duty (originally a wartime measure). Cask strength whiskies are at natural, barrel strength which provides more impact and immediate flavour. These whiskies should be diluted in the glass after ex- ploratory sips otherwise anaesthesia will numb the pleasure. Because of the variety of casks employed in the indus- try each single-cask bottling will have the character of the barrel variety as well as that of the distillery so there is great variation. Why are some whiskies so expensive? GORDON & MACPHAIL (G&M, CC, Cask) The first thing to check is the age of the The leading and most respected independent bottler, G&M bottle a bewilder- whisky. If it is say 21 years old (the time ing range of single, vatted and blended whiskies from their Elgin home. G&M spent in the cask—once bottled it does are unique amongst independent bottlers in that they mature all their whis- not ‘age’), it will be dearer because of the kies from new and have done so for 100 years. additional storage required. Also whisky Shown above are examples of the Connoisseurs Choice, Cask and G&M range. evaporates in the barrel by about 2% each year so after 21 years only two brands are only available overseas be- from the south are akin to the lowlands, thirds remain. The other thing to look cause they are better established there those from the north are fuller flavoured. out for is the degree of alcohol strength than in the UK. Speyside is a category of its own within as duty is applied according to percent- How many Scotch Whiskies are the Highlands. These whiskies are com- age alcohol. Most whiskies are bottled there? plex and half of Scotland’s distilleries are at 40% alcohol by volume (abv), some at The Scotch Whisky Association draws found here. The most fully flavoured 43% or 46%—15% stronger and so attention to the Claive Vidiz collection whisky is produced on the island of dearer than the 40%. We stock many in Brazil of over 4,000 bottles of Scotch. Islay (pronounced eye-la). Islay whis- whiskies with strengths of up to 65% so Not all of these will be available today kies are unguided missiles in the wrong these are the equivalent of over a bottle and Campbell Evans of the SWA reck- hands—you will either love them or and a half! ons that there are about 200 in the UK wonder what the attraction is in smell- and 2,000 around the world. ing hospitals. The right glass for malt whisky. Loch Fyne Whiskies has the most com- Books are useful sources of information A traditional whisky tumbler is fine for prehensive range of UK available malts and we recommend in particular: a blended whisky with a mixer but for with examples from about 120 distiller- Value for money—Collins Gem Whisky malt whisky appreciation a tulip or ies. There are currently about 85 open £3.99. balloon glass is preferred. and working; others are either Most informed— Charles MacLean’s A classic nosing glass has a generous mothballed, closed or demolished. There Pocket Whisky Book £7.99. belly to accumulate aromas, a narrow have been about 750 distilleries licensed Taster’s bible—Michael Jackson’s Malt rim to focus those delights for consid- since Ferintosh in 1689. Whisky Companion £12.99. eration and a watch glass lid to keep How am I supposed to drink my How come they taste so different? them for you rather than the fairies. malt whisky? Malted (germinated) barley has to be Engraved graduations allow accurate How you like! Although it does seem a dried before milling and fermentation dilution. shame to mix a £25 malt with a sweet, and traditionally this has been done over For relaxed whisky drinking we fizzy mixer. Addition of water (anything an open fire. In Scotland a variety of reccomend a port glass. A wider rim from a drop to 50:50, depends on the fuels is found locally including peat (de- and better balance aids contemplative bottling) often reveals more character composing heather) and coal. The enjoyment. We also enjoy using the because your nose is happier at lower amount of peat that is used to dry the simple water carafe, far less fuss than alcoholic strengths, so experiment with barley has a big influence (on Islay it is a lipped jug. each new bottling. Bear in mind you the only source of fuel). Other influences Classic Nosing Glass ...... £7.50(a) have four senses of taste and these are are the style of apparatus employed in Port Glass ...... £3.50(a) on your tongue, not in the back of your the production, particularly the still and Carafe ...... £3.50(a) throat. Plus you have some 30 or more how that still is operated by the stillman. senses of smell so use the schnoz. Ice in The final major influence is the type of malts is a no-no; you put ice on bruises oak cask or barrel employed to mature and in blended Scotch in hot climates. the spirit; it could be one of many cat- How do I know which malts I will like? egories from a brand new barrel to a Most single malts will have the region well-used second-hand sherry or bour- of origin on the label, either Lowland, bon cask. Highland, Speyside or Islay and these Where’s Cadenhead’s/Connoisseurs give a clue to the character of the con- Choice/Gordon & MacPhail’s Distillery? tents—but there are many exceptions to These bottles are from Independent bot- the rule. The Lowlands are the most tlers who buy the malt whisky from a gentle; mild, almost wine-like. The distillery and bottle it with their name Highlands can be further divided; those foremost as their badge of quality. With

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 7 The CH FYN O Blend of E L ™ SCOTCH WHISKIES THE DISTILLERY THE MALT DRINKERS BLEND™ Our label depicts the Glendarroch Dis- tillery sited on the Crinan Canal that We’re very proud of our unique blend links Loch Fyne with the Sound of Jura. created for us by Professor Ronnie Mar- Also known as Glenfyne, the distillery tin, O.B.E., former Production Director was built in 1831. A sucession of own- of industry leader United Distillers. ers held the distillery until 1919 when Slightly sweet and slightly smoky, The it came under the ownership of the Loch Fyne appeals to malt whisky fans Glenfyne Distillery Co. as an easy-drinking, well flavoured The cameo by Gail Gordon depicts the blended whisky; something to drink and distillery at the time of Alfred Barnard’s enjoy rather than concentrate on. We visit in 1885. Barnard’s detailed descrip- have given The Loch Fyne to the three tion of the buildings enabled us to rec- top professional tasting writers and reate the floor plan and Gail was able to while all enjoy it, their tasting notes are complete her task from this combined completely different—proof that it is with etchings in his book. something for everyone! Barnard was clearly taken by the set- Michael Jackson’s note is characteristi- ting, the distillery and hospitality af- cally analytical; forded him. His book devotes six pages Colour; rich, sunny, gold. to his visit, much taken up with details Aroma; fruity (honeydew mellon?). of the buildings e.g. “a new kiln, one of Body; medium, slightly syrupy. the finest we have seen in Scotland, it is Flavours; light heather-honey, 51 feet square” but also with the loca- grassy, fragrant, smokiness develops, tion: “It is built at the foot of the Rob- especially in the finsh. ber’s Glen which runs upwards from the With typical eloquence, Charlie banks of the canal into the heart of the MacLean’s tasting note wins by a nose: Soon after its launch The Loch Fyne won hills in the background; this glen was “The deep amber colour of this whisky, the bronze award in the blended whisky once the haunt of smugglers, and no (darker than many blends) implies age class at the influential International more romantic spot could have been cho- and this is supported by the (undilute) Wine & Spirit Competition. The Gold sen for the distillery.” nose, which is rich and vinous, with no Medal went to the world’s top selling Glendarroch was complete and well laid trace of grain. All the indications of ma- Scotch, Johnnie Walker Red Label. out. Barley was unloaded from the ca- ture fillings. More praise comes from Carol Shaw who nal direct to the malt barns then moved There is an interesting aroma of apple in her recently published Collins Pocket through the process clockwise around a dumpling (suet crust), and this remains Reference Book ‘Whisky’ describes The courtyard to the kiln, tun room, still when water is added, enlivened by Loch Fyne as ‘A malt drinker’s blend, house and warehouses. Whisky was lighter citric notes (oranges and tange- full flavoured, with a raisiny, sweet then shipped to market via the canal. rines), and by some oil-related aromas spiced nose, mellow smoothness of taste Eight houses were available for the (walnuts, linseed oil). Phenolic notes are and a warming finish. A very easy to workers and two for the excisemen. slight, and express themselves more as drink whisky.’ There was also Glengilp House and ‘roast meat’ than peat smoke. Medicinal Scotland’s Gourmet magazine called it Glendarroch House for the manager and phenols are present in a very slight trace a ‘gem’, and noted that ‘only a little more the owner respectively. At the end of his of oilskins. Overall the nose is subtle and expensive than a standard blend, it ap- day’s visit Barnard’s party “donned our relatively closed. Not much water is peared to be of a higher quality.’ ‘war paint’ and proceeded to needed for this whisky. Glendarroch House to enjoy the hospi- The mouth-feel is smooth and well bal- tality of the owner”. anced, engaging the whole palate with The distillery closed in 1937, unusually acidic, salty, sweet and dry flavours, and as there was a distilling boom at that coming down ultimately on the side of time, although the warehouses contin- sweetness. The overall impression is ued to be used for storing whisky until fresh and smooth—mellow without be- the mid seventies. A brief life as a join- ing flat. The finish is quick and clean, ery followed until the eighties when a and surprisingly warming. It is ex- salmon hatchery made use of the build- tremely easy to drink. ings and water which was also the drink- Conclusion: A true premium blend ing water supply for Ardrishaig and which has clearly used well matured fill- Lochgilphead. ings. There is no harshness in it, no ce- In 1990 the Regional Council acquired real notes or feints, no artificial caramel the water rights and every last trace of notes. A whisky which is appropriate for the distillery has since been removed. any time of the day. Perilously smooth, Additional information: mellow and easy to drink.” Brian Townsend, SCOTCH MISSED.

PAGE 8 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD TASTERS...some of the new bottlings available... GLENGARIOCH & SISTERS remains unique in the industry; it was Jim McEwan, Manager the first malt distillery to convert to Morrison Bowmore Distillers North Sea gas and waste boiler flue gas- Morrison Bowmore Distillers have a ses are used to generate steam for fir- portfolio representing the three primary ing the stills. The distillery is moth- whisky producing regions: Auchen- balled at present. The adjoining land is toshan in the Lowlands, Islay’s Bowmore being sold off but with the increase in and the Highland representitive interest in malt whisky I am hopeful Glengarioch. An eastern Highland malt, that production will resume soon. it confusingly labels itself as Glen Three exciting new additions to the Glen Garioch, whilst the distillery’s name is Garioch stable are at cask strength. The all one word. 1978 is a vatting from several casks Pronounced ‘Glen-geery’, the distillery while the 29 and 27yo’s are single casks is in the village of Oldmeldrum, about the former (vintage 1968) is matured in eighteen miles west of Aberdeen mak- fresh sherry butts and the 1970 from ing it the most easterly in Scotland now first-fill re-made hoggies. FIRST OFFICIAL SCAPA & that Glenugie and Glenury have closed. There are also two new bottlings from A TOP CLASS GLENDRONACH Oldmeldrum’s other claim is as the Bowmore, both without an age state- Allied Distillers have released the other birthplace of Sir Patrick Marston, a 19th ment but with 12-15 years in cask. Dark- Orkney malt, Scapa, onto the home mar- Century researcher in tropical medi- est is finished in sherry casks for two ket for the first time. An old LFW fa- cine—a strange occupation for someone years giving the classic Bowmore flavour vourite that until now has been bottled from a village north of Moscow! with a subtle toffee-like flavour. Bow- by Gordon & MacPhail, this medium- The distillery stands on Distillery Street more Cask Strength is bottled at 56% for light style reflects its bourbon cask ori- and it is said to have been founded in those who like Bowmore with impact. gin with honey and toffee and will be en- 1797 after which Oldmeldrum appears One of the most incredible whiskies I’ve joyed by fans of Dalwhinnie or our house to have grown up around it. It has had a ever tasted is Auchentoshan 31yo, cask malt, Inverarity. number of owners including William strength. You will not believe the aro- Best known for Laphroaig from Islay, Sanderson, of VAT69, who took it into mas wafting from your glass. The taste Allied complete their new malt line up the mighty Distillers Company in 1937. is well, ‘to die for’. It proves beyond doubt with a truly sensational new bottling of DCL were not satisfied with its water that quality casks make quality spirit; Glendronach—this time as a 15yo, 100% supply and, after suffering shortages, the first filled hogsheads used to mature sherry cask matured. This is essential closed it down in 1968. After two years this cracker have done the job. Auchy is for dark whisky fans and a real chal- it was sold to Stanley P. Morrison who underrated and naturally sweet and lenge to the Macallan 18yo’s sherry- sank a well in a nearby field for a new does not require the assistance of sherry encrusted crown. and more reliable water source. casks. Morrison made various improvements A 1975 cask strength vatting (i.e. not including a new still and within three single cask) also being introduced is su- years production was trebled. perb, the finish just lasts forever. Believe Glengarioch shares two particular fea- me the Lowlands are on the move, this tures with Bowmore. It maintains its category has been hidden for too long. own floor maltings—the malt is lightly It’s bright, fresh, clean tasting with lots peated using local peat, taken from New of complementary style and elegance. Pitsligo Moss, which is moistened before Space prohibits full publication of Jim’s Transparency of being burnt to reduce the amount con- copious tasting notes but here is a selec- Bunnahabhain sumed. Also like its island sister it uses tive trawl: with hairline keyline heat recovery in an innovative way. A Glen Garioch — ’70/27yo waste energy scheme begun in 1976 Palate—custard & fudge sweetness. Glen Garioch—single sherry cask—’68/29yo Finish—a real heavyweight bursting with power. One to try sitting down. A cabertosser if ever I saw one. BUNNAHABHAIN FOUND! Bowmore — cask strength In 1984 some of the last home floor- Body—full, beefy and brawny. malted Bunnahabhain was bottled to Finish—the flavours soar in like sea celebrate the centenary of the distillery. birds before a storm. This 21yo was then tucked away and fi- Auchentoshan — single cask — ’65/31yo nally, after re-bottling in 70cl size, all Nose—it’s incredible, marmalade, pine- 900 bottles are available—buy now or apple, coconut, fresh pine, fudge, freshly weep! Bunnahabhain ’63/21 has a more cut oak, hints of African violets, a kalei- heavily peated taste than the 12yo. doscope of aromas. ...also... Auchentoshan — ’75/21 New ‘Rare Malts’ due by the end of May Palate—candied fruits, blackcurrants, are: Caol Ila, Lochnagar, Teaninich and heather flowers and a beautiful oaky fla- Dallas Dhu. We are carrying the new vour give a really unique complexity to Johnnie Walker Pure Malt, an apple- this classic lowland spirit. sappy 15yo worthy of the JW appelation. ...and an old bottling... Gordon & MacPhail are expanding their A discontinued trial product, ‘Jackson’s CC range into 35cl size and by May we Row’ appears on our list. After an will be carrying half bottles of Caol Ila, unsuccesful test marketing in Glasgow Benrinnes and Bladnoch. Furthermore this frosted and printed glass bottle is the CC range is getting a label facelift. to be re-packaged as ‘Buchanan’s Blond’. The first elegantly packaged OB of Collector’s item, stocks restricted. Pultney is due about now—8 and 12yo.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 9 RE-INVENTING THE WHEEL chocolate A progress report by Charles MacLean Two years ago I was asked by Sainsbury’s to write a short book about nutty sherried cooked mash malt whisky. There are several good in- cooked veg. malt extract troductory books on the subject and hav- husky ing cast around for a new way of skin- toasted yeasty ning the cat, I pulled together a proposal for a book devoted to whisky tasting—a Winey Cereal citric vanilla subject which, although it is well cov- fresh fruity it d fru ered in relation to wine, has never been oke tackled from the perspective of Scotch. old wood co fruit I heard nothing from them for several dried months, but I had been given a dead- Woody Estery new wood line (and an advance!) by the publish- solvent ing house responsible for the project and began my research. Six months into the vegetative fragrant book, and with a month to the delivery date, Sainsbury’s told the publisher they Sulphury Floral green-house wanted a generic book about malt coal-gas whisky, not something focused on tast- leafy ing. So it was back to the drawing board, rubbery and the result was Sainsbury’s Guide to hay-like Malt Whisky. Feinty Peaty sandy m However, my interest in whisky tasting, edicinal and in particular the language used to smoky honey kipp describe the aromas and flavours found mossy in malt whisky, had been well kindled. I leathery ery was introduced to the subject five years sweaty

plastic ago, when I was invited to attend a sum- tobacco mer school on ‘The Sensory Analysis of How the Flavour Wheel works Potable Spirits’, by Pentlands Scotch Cardinal aromatic characteristics (the to making it more useful to the con- Whisky Research Ltd (now the Scotch first tier terms) are arranged in seg- sumer. This is where you come in, Dear Whisky Research Institute) and held at ments around the hub of the wheel. Each Reader. Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh. It of these is broken down into more de- Re-inventing the Wheel was presented by Jim Swan, Sheila tailed descriptors (second tier terms), Dr. Jim Swan, one of the original authors Burtles and Graeme Richardson—three and beyond these again, arranged of the Pentland’s Wheel, and now a part- of the leading experts in this area. around the rim of the wheel, are groups ner in R.R.Tatlock & Thomson (inde- Jim Swan and Sheila Burtles, along with of words which might arise in tastings pendent analytical chemists to the in- George Shortreed and Paul Rickards, (third tier terms). dustry), and I are re-designing the had been responsible for defining the The Pentlands first tier term ‘Phenolic’ whisky wheel. language of whisky tasting in a seminal is further divided to second and third Our current thinking is displayed above. paper entitled ‘The Flavour Terminology tier terms thus: You will see that we have reduced the of Scotch Whisky’ and published in the PHENOLIC number of segments to eight and sim- Brewers Guardian in November 1979. 2nd tier term 3rd tier term plified the first and second tier terms. As part of this project, they drew up a -medicinal TCP, iodine, sea tangle, We have yet to refine the third tier terms ‘flavour wheel’ which described the aro- carbolic and at the moment are gathering as matic and taste characteristics of ma- -peaty guaiacol, burned wood, many descriptors as we can. All the ture and new-make spirit. tar-like descriptors listed opposite have come up Flavour wheels are now familiar graphic -kippery — at tasting panels that Jim or I have sat devices for displaying such odour clas- It has fourteen segments, twelve relat- on during the past nine months, mainly sifications and the vocabularies used to ing to aroma and two purely to flavour. for the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. But describe them, but at the time the de- The Pentlands Wheel (left) was made to there will be many more that can be vice was uncommon, having been used assist blenders and others in the trade, applied, from time to time and to one only by the beer industry. not for the consumer. An important as- whisky or another (malt and blend). pect of its usefulness to blenders is the How you can help inclusion of off-notes, which will enable Next time you are enjoying a quiet dram the user to identify undesirable aromas with friends, get them to describe the in samples of spirit and accordingly to aromas and flavours they discover in the either monitor its maturation (in new whisky, be it ‘lace’, ‘Sam Browne belts’ make) or guard against using a particu- or whatever, and send them in to the lar cask in a vatting of mature whisky. SWR. Loch Fyne Whiskies has gener- But because of the inclusion of off-notes, ously agreed to send bottles of the ex- the wheel is confusing for the consumer, cellent Loch Fyne blend to the best en- since many of the terms—even whole tries; your contributions will be used on segments (such as ‘Stale’ or ‘Sour Asso- the ‘definitive’ wheel, and duly acknowl- ciated’)—are redundant: they should edged in the book which will accompany never appear in whiskies which have it. And you will have the satisfaction, not been bottled for sale. only of enjoying your dram more, but of It has long been felt that the whisky contributing to the arcane and exacting wheel should be re-drawn with a view science of whisky tasting!

PAGE 10 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD THE WHISKY TASTING WHEEL (under construction)

Draft Peaty continued.. FIRST TIER - (kippery): smoked salmon smoked oysters smoked mussels anchovies - (second teir): & third tier descriptors dried cran shells dried shellfish sea shells 1) CEREAL — (Organo-nitrogen compounds) -(mossy): birchy earthy - (cooked mash): cooked maize mash tun draff fresh peat turf cooked potato skins hens’ mash moss water sphagnum moss weetabix porridge bog myrtle fishing nets bran cattle cake hemp ropes - (cooked vegetables): cooked swede boiled corn 5) FEINTY— (volatile acids, organo-nitrogen, amines) baked potato skins sweetcorn - (honey): mead heather honey mashed potato flower honey pouring honey - (malt extract): malted milk Horlicks beeswax Marmite - (leathery): new cowhide digestive biscuits - (husky): chaff-like dried hops mealy poultry-food mousey pot ale leather upholstery calf book-binding iron tonic libraries - (yeasty): meaty gralloch - (tobacco): fresh tobacco stale tobacco-ash gravy pork sausages rolling tobacco aromatic tobacco boiled pork roast meat tea chests tea pots 2) ESTERY— (Ethyl acetate, Isoamyl acetate, hexyl acetate) - (sweaty): furniture polish piggery - (citric): oranges tangerines stale yeast lactic mandarins limey cheesy buttermilk peel zest Kiwi fruit baby vomit sickly nectarines pineapple cubes old gym-shoes dirty laundry - (fresh fruity): banana pear drops - (plastic): scorched plastic plastic buckets green apples lemonade oilskins plastic macs peaches apricots 6) SULPHURY— (organo-sulphur compounds, di-methyl sulphide, di-methyl tri- greengages fresh figs sulphide, mercaptans) cherries gooseberries - (vegetative): marsh gas drains Victoria plums raspberries bogs brackish fruit salad ripe pears stagnant spent matches strawberries fruit pulp turnips cabbage water -(cooked fruit): stewed apples stewed rhubarb - (coal-gas): exhaust fumes brimstone candied fruits fruit in syrup minerals matchbox striker wine gums fruit gums cordite spent fireworks rum-toft marmalade dirty shot-gun barrels hydrogen sulphide raspberry jam boiled sweets acetylene calcium carbide banana rum rotten fruit - (rubbery): new rubber (tyres) burnt rubber - (dried fruit): raisins sultanas pencil eraser bakelite prunes dried apricots industrial electric cables dried figs mixed peel - (sandy): elemental sulphur hot sand christmas cake mince pies sandy beach linen black bun Dundee cake fresh laundry starch prunes 7) WOODY— (Lignin, Hemicellulose, Vanillin) - (solvent): paint thinners nail varnish remover - (new wood): sap-like resinous ethyl alcohol barber’s shop pine-like cedar-wood brylcreem turpentine cigar boxes sandalwood bubble gum American cream soda sawdust orange peel artificial fruit sweet cigarettes ginger tannic acid drops fresh paint spicy peppery pine essence cellophane cloves allspice saccharine cinnamon nutmeg 3) FLORAL — (Acetal, acetaldehyde, phenylethanol, beta-ionone, curry powder phenylacetaldehyde) - (old wood): musty fusty - (fragrant): perfumed scented cork bung cloth rose carnation blotting paper cardboard coconut coconut milk newspaper mushrooms gorse bushes chrysanthemum damp cellars mould lavender wild flowers old books earthy lilac honeysuckle metallic inky air freshener fabric softener tinny wet iron Chanel No.5 scented soap pencil-lead chewed pencils - (green-house): geraniums green tomatoes paraffin naptha/camphor violets flowering currant - (vanilla): glycerine custard powder florist’s shop Parma violets treacle toffee tomato leaves sherbert butterscotch fudge Love-hearts apple mint caramel tablet spearmint peppermint Russian toffee sticky toffee pudding - (leafy): green leaves lawn cuttings caramel wafers toffee apples crushed green bracken green sticks creme caramel golden syrup cut grass laurel leaves brown sugar meringues green vegetables pea pods treacle condensed milk sappy fir trees barley sugar pine cones pine nuts - (toasted): burnt toast roasted malt - (hay-like): dry hay coumarin cocoa coffee herbal mown hay rice pudding skin brown toast heather flowers barns burnt cake coffee grounds hamster cage sage and onion aniseed liquorice mulch 8) WINEY— (Vinous extractives) 4) PEATY — (Phenolic) - (sherried): oloroso sherry fino sherry - (medicinal): TCP iodine sauternes chardonnay sea-tangle sea-spray madeira port carbolic coal tar soap burgundy brandy neoprene germoline drinks cabinet wine vinegar Friar’s balsam Benylin brown sauce ether Victory V’s -(nutty): marzipan benzaldehyde surgical spirits hospitals walnuts hazel nuts deisel oil lint Brazil nuts almonds bandages tar praline roasted peanuts creosote menthol rape seed oil gun oil (Youngs 303) - (smoky): guaiacol burnt wood linseed oil sun-tan oil bonfires wood-smoke mutton fat tallow scorched paper peat-reek, candlewax oiled wood smouldering embers exotic smoke olives burning cinnamon sticks Lapsang suchong tea -(chocolate) milk chocolate bitter chocolate incense butter cream

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 11 www.dot.dash.slash.hic James Thompson, Clearcut Ltd The thirst for information is helping fuel several projects that have appeared on the internet. Glenmorangie, Laphroaig and Isle of Arran all have websites that provide considerable background infor- mation. As publishers of the scotchwhisky.com website and six other commercial whisky sites, we decided to ask our readers to vote on their favourite brands, so we could learn about their interests. Over 8,000 votes revealed that, of the main- stream malts, the more distinctive, such as the south coast Islays and the sherried Macallan, come out well ahead. In March Charles Maclean chaired a three day tasting session over the ’net— the first global tasting ever held. The site is still on www.scotchwhisky.com, although the exhausted nosing panel is EXCLUSIVE! — ARDBEG HERRING-WOOD FINISH no longer convened. If you are ‘on-line’ Speculation persists that Glenmorangie are proposing a new range of wood take a look, (and let us have your views). finishes for their recent acquisition, Ardbeg. Acclaimed for their innovative range The purpose of this event is to discover of port and madeira expressions, Glenmorangie no doubt realise that as Ardbeg is what words whisky drinkers around the a huge, powerful, peaty whisky it will not be influenced by namby-pamby wine world use to describe aromas and fla- styles. Our picture, taken at the beginning of April and smuggled off the island, vours (see page 10). The protocol has shows considerable activity at Ardbeg pier, apparently of fish barrels being pre- been translated into six languages, and pared for filling. A spokesperson for Glenmorangie refused to comment. around 3000 people visited the site over the three days. The In response to the oft-asked question SPRINGBANK NEWS about the LFW website: our official line The problems a distiller faces in stock H FY is “definitely—well, maybe soon(ish)” and production planning decades ahead C N are exemplified by difficulties currently O Blend of E BACK ISSUES OF SWR experienced by Springbank. Stocks of L ™ We have some stocks of back issues for the 15yo are exhausted for three years SCOTCH WHISKIES which we are now asking a £1 per copy and for the next few months there will Include 12 bottles of the (award winning) charge (and why not?). be no 12yo 100° proof. We have been Loch Fyne and get free delivery of your The first (SWR1) consisted of 4 pages; advised that while the 21yo will con- order. Alternatively collect from the shop SWR2 was eight pages and featured an tinue, in future there will be occasional and we’ll knock off £6 each case. interview with Alan Rutherford, produc- bottlings of older vintages rather than tion head of United Distillers. a standard 25 or 30yo. WHISKY FESTIVAL SWR3 featured Andrew Dewar-Durie of In about three years time a core range There is a lot of hot air coming out of Allied Distillers. of three 10yo’s each entirely matured in Edinburgh (nothing new there) about a SWR4—George Urquhart, G&M. 12pp. bourbon, sherry and rum casks, will line Whisky Festival in October. Contact the SWR5—Ronnie Martin, creator of the up with the 12, 15 and 21. Some time Festival Office, 0131 556 9808. (award winning) Loch Fyne blend. this year an anniversary bottling of 18yo Our photograph above of herring curers at SWR6 pestered Alan Gray, Stockbroker is expected. Work is underway to pro- Holmsgarth was taken by the great Scottish pho- and briefly mentions news of our award duce a new triple distilled whisky called tographer, George Washington Wilson (1823-93), winning blend The Loch Fyne winning Hazelburn, utilising manager Frank University of Aberdeen Collection. an award. McHardy’s experience at Bushmills in SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW is free to all One pound per copy please, plus total Ireland. There are also plans to build a bona fide mail order customers. If you have postage of £1 if sent to Europe and £2 to completely new still-house for a further not bought by mail order from the last the rest of the world. new product. (Autumn) catalogue and do not buy from A 10yo Longrow, the heavily peated the accompanying (Spring) list then we THE A-Z OF WHISKY style, will be available as an official bot- will not be troubling you again. by Gavin Smith (see page 5). tling in November. We are no longer sending out Stock Lists and Published by Neil Wilson Publishing in SWR’s to prospective customers more than May 1997. Price £7.99. Formerly part WORD-SEARCH WINNER once. If you or a friend would like a current of Carcanet’s Book of Words series, this Our xmas whisky word-search produced stock list please ask and you will be sent one unique reference work is absolutely es- a superb response from LFW customers. with a back-issue SWR. Your name will not sential for anyone whose interest in Michael Heads, brewer at Laphroaig, be placed on our mailing list for current whisky extends beyond the plethora of stopped by and drew Peter Cawthorne’s SWR’s until you have bought by mail order. looks-like-jacko’s tasting tomes. correct entry out of the barrel. Peter LFW recommended. wrote in appreciation of his prize of a PLEASE TELL YOUR rare bottle of 10yo Ardbeg and described FRIENDS ABOUT US! In response to a letter from France we now stock whisky- it as having a ‘sweetish, salty taste and flavoured condoms. Gentlemen should ask Richard or Roddy a smooth texture’. He also asked that © COPYRIGHT RESERVED for “a comb, a packet of aspirin and a tub of Brylcreem”. we convey thanks to Iain Henderson of LOCH FYNE WHISKIES 1997 We’ll try and get them to you for the weekend... Laphroaig for donating the prize. Telephone 01499 302219

PAGE 12 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD