Bottled Water

Pre-FAll MOre TrOuBle PiTTi 2014 FOr SeArS ACTiOn ElizabEth and JamEs The embaTTled BuSineSS wAS and GilEs wErE reTailer’s holiday BOOMinG AT in thE spotliGht THe TrAde FAir comps fell in FlOrenCe. as prE-fall nEars 7.4 percenT. page 2 its End. paGE 3 PAGe 9

The Long Liz Wind-doWn McComb era ends, Kate Spade Steps Out

By Lisa LoCkWooD

nEW York — William L. McComb, chairman and chief executive officer of Fifth & Pacific Cos., is step- ping down after seven years at the helm. He will be succeeded by Craig Leavitt, ceo of kate spade. F&P will undergo a name change to kate spade & Co., to FriDaY, JanuarY 10, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WoMEn’s WEar DaiLY reflect the company’s monobrand focus. WWD it’s been a controversial tenure for McComb, who oversaw the transformation of the company, which was previously known as Liz Claiborne inc. When McComb took over in november 2006, Claiborne had about 40 brands and $4.99 billion in sales. after a portfolio review, McComb quickly put 16 of the company’s brands on the block — including Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman and sigrid olsen — and reoriented the firm around four “power brands,” which were kate spade, Juicy Couture, Lucky Brand jeans and Mexx. The firm, which last year generated about $1.3 billion in revenues and has a market capitalization of $3.96 billion, also sold its namesake Liz Claiborne brand to J.C. Penney Co. inc., which had the license, Bottled and has since sold Mexx. “all told, i was a wartime ceo,” said McComb, in a telephone interview Thursday. “any of us that led our companies through that very rough time in the world.…We had our own travails that had nothing to Water do with the external market. You put those two to- Bulgari is harnessing the gether, and to hold a board together and to hold all the constituents like the banks and even the invest- power of the sea for its ment community, it’s not easy. Did we make mistakes? newest men’s fragrance, sure, but there were also things we had to do.” Following the sale of Juicy Couture and the com- Aqua Amara, a citrus pletion of the Lucky Brand jeans deal this year, the successor to the original company will be left with just one brand: kate spade, Aqua Pour Homme, which generated $742 million in sales last year. in establishing the company, george Carrara, which was launched currently executive vice president, chief operat- in 2004. in the u.S., ing officer and chief financial officer of F&P, will be the fragrance will be sEE PagE 12 carried in about 2,000 department and specialty store doors. Globally, Dsquared2 Wins Key it could do as much as $34 million at retail in China Trademark Case its first year on counter. By Luisa Zargani For more, see page 4. MiLan — Dsquared2 won its battle for China. The brand secured the rights to distribute its collections in the country as a court in Hangzhou ruled it is “legitimately allowed” to do so — despite the fact that another company has trademarked the Dsquared label (without the 2 figure) and is selling counterfeit products under that moniker. The ruling is vital to the brand’s prospects in the gigantic consumer market and an important signal that Western brands can successfully argue their cases in the still-evolving Chinese legal system. Dsquared2 was initially denied permission to trademark the brand in China in 2005 because the nuohe group had registered the label three months earlier. “We are facing a serial usurper,” roberto Franco, chief financial officer of Dsquared2, told WWD. “This verdict marks an epochal turnaround because it says that Dsquared’s lettering and format is legitimate in China even if there is another brand registered under the same name.” according to Franco, nuohe has registered in China more than 200 brands, including such names as C’n’C’, Dior Homme and iceberg. “after we had gone through all the possible administrative levels, in 2011 we decided to sue nuohe for registration in bad faith and unfair competition and turned to the court of Hangzhou, which is known for its more modern views on intellectual property in China,” said Franco. The executive said nuohe has opened stores copy- PHOTO BY JOHn AquinO, STYled BY SHArOn Ber ing the brand’s products and lettering and the original sEE PagE 8 2 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM Sears Holiday Comps Tumble THE BRIEFING BOX percent from 58 percent during the sured both margins and profits. IN TODAY’S WWD By ARNOLD J. KARR comparable 2012 months. SYW ex- The trend lines were friend- pense increased $69 million during lier to Abercrombie & Fitch Co., SHARES OF Sears Holdings Corp. the first two months of the quarter. which prepared investors for a fell almost 13 percent in after- Noting its efforts to spin off tough quarter back in November. Street style during hours trading Thursday following its Lands’ End and Sears Auto It reported that its comps, in- London Collections: the company’s discouraging report Center businesses, the company cluding e-commerce, were down 6 Men. For more, see on its declining same-store sales. said it had approximately $1 bil- percent so far in the quarter, with WWD.com. Sears said in its comparable- lion of cash on its balance sheet a 4 percent decline in the U.S. store sales in November and with $2.3 billion in availabil- helping to balance a 10 percent December were down 7.4 percent, ity through its credit facilities, decrease in international markets. with Sears’ U.S. stores off 9.2 per- about $500 million of it through Abercrombie originally antici- cent and Kmart’s off 5.7 percent. its Sears Canada facility. pated a low-double-digit decline The figures are worse than those “We continue to reduce unprof- in comps during the quarter. registered for the first 11 months itable stores as leases expire and Assuming comps below the quar- of the fiscal year, which have the in some cases accelerate closings ter-to-date trend in January, the company down 3.9 percent, Sears when circumstances dictate,” the firm now expects adjusted net in- down 4.2 percent and Kmart down firm said. come for the full year of between 3.7 percent. The firm pinpointed $1.55 and $1.65, 15 cents above the declines in consumer electron- previous range estimates. That DABROWSKI KUBA ics, tools and home appliances in implies fourth-quarter adjusted its Sears stores and decreases in net income of between 96 cents PHOTO BY consumer electronics, grocery and 12.6% and $1.06 a share in the fourth household, and toys at Kmart. quarter, better than the 89 cents For the fourth quarter ending AFTER-HOURS PRICE DECLINE OF expected, on average, by analysts. William L. McComb, chairman and chief executive officer of Feb. 1, the firm now anticipates a SEARS SHARES THURSDAY. Shares jumped 14.4 percent, Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc., will be leaving the company after seven net loss of between $250 million and to $38, in after-hours trading. years at the helm. PAGE 1 $360 million, or between $2.35 and They were up 0.9 percent to $3.39 a diluted share, lighter than The news from Sears came at $33.21 during the day. Dsquared2 won a trademark dispute in a Chinese legal court, Aéropostale Inc. didn’t dis- the loss of $489 million, or $4.61, reg- the end of a 24-hour period in clearing the way for its expansion in the country. PAGE 1 istered during the comparable pe- which many former participants close results along with its teen riod last year. Stripping out a series in the monthly ritual of same- sector peers but became a subject of nonrecurring items, adjusted net store sales reporting returned of heightened speculation after it Target next month will introduce a premium skin-care loss would be between $213 million to the fray with holiday updates. canceled plans to appear at the assortment stocked with seven brands culled from different PAGE 4 and $316 million versus and adjust- That virtually drowned out a col- ICR XChange in Miami next week. retail channels and countries. ed net loss of $119 million last year. lection of disappointing monthly With recent results weak and its Removing a myriad of other reports from stores including Gap stock in retreat — shares declined Bulgari is introducing a new men’s fragrance the company items, the company said its earn- Inc., L Brands Inc., The Buckle 30.1 percent last year — Wall says has staying power: Aqua Amara, a citrus successor to the ings before interest, taxes, depre- Inc. and Zumiez Inc., all of which Street’s attention turned to a pos- original Aqua Pour Homme. PAGE 4 ciation and amortization would fell below the comp levels ex- sible takeout of the chain. Several range from a profit of $65 million pected by analysts surveyed by private equity firms — including Olay next week will launch a marketing campaign that cuts to an EBITDA loss of $65 million, Thomson Reuters. Sycamore Partners, Hirzel Capital across all its subbrands called “Your Best Beautiful.” PAGE 4 whereas adjusted EBITDA for the Following Macy’s Inc.’s word Management and Crescendo comparable quarter last year, upon late Wednesday of a 3.6 percent Partners — have picked up stakes The China beauty market is maturing at a rapid pace, causing the exclusion of $878 million in im- increase in comps for November in the retailer and urged it to take growing pains for multinational beauty firms. PAGE 8 pairment charges and other items, and December, coupled with action, prompting the company in was $429 million in the black. plans for a corporate cost-cutting November to adopt a poison pill. Despite a cloudy economic climate, business is booming at If the projected net losses for plan, Thursday brought a series Shares rallied 3.9 percent to $8.97. the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade fair. PAGE 9 the quarter were to be realized, of comp results for the November- Urban Outfitters Inc. reported the net loss for the year would be December holiday period, along a 3 percent increase in comps The Los Angeles party scene was abuzz Wednesday with Dior between $1.3 billion and $1.4 bil- with related revisions in guidance. for November and December, Beauty’s fifth-annual luncheon benefiting Operation Smile and a lion, higher than the $930 million American Eagle Outfitters with gains of 11 percent at PAGE 10 loss suffered last year. Inc.’s comps during November Anthropologie and 21 percent at dinner hosted by designer Antonio Berardi. Shares tumbled 12.6 percent and December fell 7 percent Free People offset by the namesake to $37.20 in the early stages of and it said fourth-quarter profits brand’s 6 percent decline. A plethora of Academy Awards hopefuls were in New York after-hours trading. During the would be at the low end of its ear- Among the monthly comp Tuesday for the National Board of Review gala. PAGE 10 regular trading session, they lier estimate of between 26 and 30 reporters, L Brands and its dropped 3.2 percent to $42.57. cents a diluted share. Although he Victoria’s Secret and Bath & A special collaboration between Givenchy creative director Sears noted its efforts to “pro- expects year-end inventories to Body Works nameplates fell shy Riccardo Tisci and Nike is said to be in the works and could be actively transform” the company finish “on plan,” chief executive of analysts’ estimates with re- announced as soon as today. PAGE 11 from a store network to a member- officer Robert Hanson said “traf- spective comp gains of 2, 2 and ship-based omnichannel retailer. fic and sales through Christmas 3 percent. The company pulled Miuccia Prada has turned to four of Hollywood’s top emerging During the holiday period, the per- week were on the low end of our down its fourth-quarter profit stars for the Miu Miu spring campaign. PAGE 11 centage of sales coming from Shop expectations” and that the “highly estimate to $1.60 a share, from a Your Way members increased to 69 promotional” retail climate pres- range of between $1.67 and $1.82. Craig Leavitt will be inheriting a company projecting significant growth in its primary business: Kate Spade. PAGE 12 Trade Authority Bill Put Forth in Congress ON WWD.COM dressing currency manipulation, promoting global FASHION: Off the runways and onto the streets and By KRISTI ELLIS value chains and strengthening consultations with sidewalks for some of the best looks during London Congress and the public. The authority, former- Collections: Men. For more, see WWD.com. WASHINGTON — Lawmakers introduced legisla- ly known as “fast track,” expired in 2007 under tion on Thursday that would renew the President’s President George W. Bush. Under TPA, Congress trade promotion authority and give the U.S. more does not have the ability to amend trade pacts ne- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. leverage in negotiating trade deals. gotiated by the executive branch and can only vote WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Fashion industry trade groups hailed the move yes or no on them. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. by lawmakers to advance legislation they argue is “The sooner we restore trade promotion au- VOLUME 207, NO. 7. FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014. 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Elizabeth Giles Kenzo Yigal and James Azrouël

Antonio Lisa Perry Marras FOR MORE PRE-FALL COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. Pre-Fall 2014

Kenzo: Showing pre-fall at Stemmler — specifically her photo of late architect Philip New York’s General Society landscapes, flowers and even Johnson standing with a model of Mechanics and Tradesmen artichokes — Antonio Marras of a building featuring striking was perhaps a nod to the showed a collection strong on exterior lines. The image functionality of Humberto nature. The motifs showed informed Perry’s new graphic Leon and Carol Lim’s Kenzo up on everything from coats pattern for the season, which collection. The designers to a pleated maxiskirt, but came on looks such as a loose- looked to Americana, especially the standouts were the more cut dress and a top. the Northwest, thus their focus abstract interpretations, i.e., a She also added a distinct was on warmth with woolen light blue Neoprene sweater men’s wear vibe via pinstripes blazers, parka coats and heavy embroidered in a graphic floral and subtle windowpane wrap skirts, a silhouette that motif paired with a skirt in the patterns. The latter provided appeared throughout. matching color. the motif for a wool flannel Graphic prints included sweatshirt and slouchy pants a pattern based on a series Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël — a boyish look that was a cool of motel doors and oversize referenced the 1968 Marianne departure for the designer. checks that stemmed from a Faithfull film “The Girl on a reflection of neon lights. Motorcycle” for his collection Elizabeth and James: Playful that was anchored by one of layering with a bit of Nineties ERICKSEN

Giles: Volume was the key focus his favorite pieces: the biker edge was the name of the KYLE

of Giles Deacon’s collection. A jacket. Azrouël’s pre-fall game at Elizabeth and James. AND white shirt with bishop sleeves, versions, again done with his “We started off with a lot of for instance, framed supertight, zipper constructions that allow plaids, so we sort of wanted to almost corsetlike dresses, while the wearer to remove sleeves, expand on that,” said Mary- EICHNER a silver-and-black jacquard peplums, etc., were worked in a Kate Olsen. A plaid shirtdress STEVE coat was cut in an exaggerated variety of materials such as wool was cleverly shown in multiple trapeze shape. eyelet, shearling and a standout looks — as a shirt, for one,

On the more formal side, a style in a patterned Alpaca wool tucked into an embroidered CHINSEE, black satin drop-waist dress blanket fabric that was shown tube skirt with the plaid hem stood out for its simplicity. with a matching skirt. peaking out from below, and GEORGE

as a jacket, worn open over BY Antonio Marras: Looking into the Lisa Perry: As inspiration, Lisa a white T-shirt and cropped world of Swiss artist Gret Lutz Perry cited a black-and-white wide-leg pants. PHOTOS

4 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM

Living Proof Aims to Grow beauty With $75M Tech Deal Proof team is already de- By JULIE NAUGHTON veloping other products Target’s Luxe Quest Includes Skin Care ’’ with the technology. COULD A $75 million “Living Proof was found- cluding a line from Borghese called dermatological deal ed as a problem-solution By MOLLY PRIOR Borghese Age Defying Cellulare inked Wednesday be- beauty company, and this Complex, a bridge brand from tween Living Proof and unique technology is an im- TARGET IS out to prove once Lydia Mondavi called 29 by Lydia Valeant Pharmaceuticals portant step in our mission again that it’s not defined by the Mondavi — her 29 Cosmetics col- International Inc., eventu- of being a total beauty com- mass-market channel. lection is available elsewhere — An item ally grow to a business the pany,” said Beraud, who Next month, the retailer will and a dermatological offering from from Target’s size of Botox? added that the company’s introduce a premium skin-care Minneapolis-based dermatologist exclusive According to Living U.S. consumer distribution assortment stocked with seven Brian Zelickson. MD Complete Proof ’s chief executive for its hair-care products brands culled from different retail Products range from $8 to $57 collection. officer, Jill Beraud, the grew 40 percent in 2013 channels and countries. in price and will be merchandised Zelickson. “There are things you “In skin care, the needs of the in two sections: Dermatological can do on a daily basis that have consumer have been changing dra- Skincare and Specialty Skincare. a long-term impact.” His goal, he Living Proof was founded as matically, and frankly, the mass- The concept will launch on target. said, was to create a line that was market assortment wasn’t keeping com on Feb. 17, and will start rolling simple in its approach but yielded pace,” said Christina Hennington, out to 749 stores the following month. clinical-type results. He explained a problem-solution beauty vice president of beauty and per- It will occupy 4 to 8 linear feet. the formulas utilize a technology sonal care at Target Corp. “We Zelickson, a Mayo Clinic gradu- that can combine active ingredi- company, and this unique have enhanced what we are offer- ate and director of the Zel Skin & ents while maintaining their sta- ing by providing a Laser Specialists bility and effectiveness, which in technology is an important broader assortment.” center, said his turn requires the consumer to use Referring to the relationship with less products. The collection cov- Target customer, or Target developed ers both antiaging and antiacne step in our mission of being guest, as the retailer over the years, as products and includes a wrinkle calls her, Hennington he spent time at the reducer, eye cream, cleanser, peel, a total beauty company. added, “Her percep- company’s head- sunscreen and dark spot remover. tion of what beauty is quarters speaking The upcoming premium skin- — JILL BERAUD, LIVING PROOF is no longer defined about skin health care aisle is the latest project in by the channel she as part of melano- what Hennington referred to as a technology is “a game- to more than 1,000 retail shops in.” Laneige is from South Korea. ma and mole skin five-year effort to elevate Target’s changer,” which could even- doors including Sephora The skin-care col- screenings. About a approach to beauty. Over the years, tually touch products from and Ulta, and its revenue lection includes existing lines, such year and a half ago, Target called the effort has included a natural skin care to makeup and grew 110 percent in the as dermatological brands Vichy on Zelickson to codevelop a skin- personal-care section and a part- have a “huge impact” on the same period. “We started and La Roche-Posay, as well as the care line and the idea for MD nership with the British retailer beauty category. with the hair-care category, AmorePacific-owned Korean line Complete was born. Zelickson has Boots, which has an assortment That creation, Strateris, and now we are expanding Laneige, which will be exclusive had experience formulating skin of products in all Target doors. In is a proprietary cross-link- to aesthetic dermatology. to Target in the U.S. market, and care before, working closely with 300 doors, Target has deployed its ing, breathable polymer But this is a revolutionary Own Skin Health, a San Francisco- the Aveda brand, and its founder, Beauty Concierge strategy. film technology said to be technology that can go all based, naturally positioned anti- Horst Rechelbacher, in particular. Hennington said, “[This con- flexible and imperceptible over the body,’’ so we see aging range. Also included in the “As a dermatologist, I’ve seen cept] builds on work we’ve been during daily use and which this as an enormous world- lineup are exclusive brands cre- skin problems day in and day doing over time. We want to win in the company claims can wide opportunity for nu- ated in partnership with Target, in- out for the last 20 years,” said beauty. We’ve invested to win.” reshape the appearance of merous products.” She said skin within hours. she sees Brazil, Russia and Valeant will sell a ver- Asia as markets with “huge Bulgari Expands Men’s Fragrance Lineup sion of the film in a facial unmet needs.” product targeting under-eye While Beraud declined bling Aqua Amara’s ingredient list: In keeping with Bulgari’s deci- bags, which will bow in its comment on Living Proof ’s By CYNTHIA MARTENS the Sicilian mandarin that accounts sion to position Aqua Amara up- direct-to-physician distri- revenues, industry sources for a full 7 percent of the juice market, the eau de toilette will bution — about 4,000 doors estimated that the firm MILAN — Channeling the vitality of was collected midseason from the initially be available worldwide — in March, said Beraud. generated less than $100 the Mediterranean Basin, Bulgari heart of a crop grown especially for in about 12,000 doors starting this She added that the Living million in 2013. is introducing a new men’s fra- Bulgari. Other ingredients include February, before reaching the grance the company says has stay- Tunisian neroli oil, a specially de- complete network of 24,000 doors. ing power: Aqua Amara, a citrus veloped watery accord, Indonesian In the U.S., considered a key mar- successor to the original Aqua Pour patchouli and frankincense. ket for the brand, Aqua Amara will Olay’s Confidence Crusade Homme, which the Italian jeweler, Cavallier, who first collaborated be carried in about 2,000 specialty OLAY AIMS to help women stand taller and embrace life. part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis with Bulgari in 1995 and created and department stores. put their best face forward There’s a skip in their step.” Vuitton, launched in 2004. the original Aqua Pour Homme Manini declined to reveal in the New Year. Radford, who described The name conjures the bitter or- scent, said he wanted Aqua Amara Bulgari’s sales expectations for Early next week, Procter the effort as “multilayered anges found in southern Italy and to be warmer and richer and the scent, how- & Gamble’s $2 billion skin- and unapologetic,” said Greece, and the fragrance’s packag- “to embody Italian elegance.” FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE ever industry care line will launch a mar- the message will be coming — with a copper-col- sources esti- keting campaign that cuts municated through affir- ored bottle shaped like a A behind-the-scenes look at WWD.com/ mated that Aqua across all its subbrands mations, or first-person rounded beach pebble — is Bulgari’s Aqua Amara men’s beauty-industry-news. Amara could called “Your Best Beautiful.” promises. “It brings a designed to open like two fragrance campaign featuring bring in 25 mil- “The campaign is about woman’s voice forward.” halves of a piece of fruit. Jon Kortajarena, photographed lion euros re- women not settling and It will be articulated “We expect the same in Capri by Mario Sorrenti. tail, or about $34 million being their best beauti- across each of the subbrands positive response to Aqua at current exchange, in ful,” said Leigh Radford, — from Fresh Effects, a Amara that the original its first year on the shelf, vice president of global line tailored for young Aqua experienced,” said and the entire Aqua line skin care at P&G. “When women, to Regenerist, an Alberto Festa, president of of fragrances could reach women feel beautiful, they antiaging range. Bulgari Corp. of America. 100 million euros, or $137 The digital effort will “With its originality in million, wholesale in the launch on Monday, via a color and innovative raw same time frame. video on Olay’s social media materials, it will set a new Prices are set at 69 channels. Radford said con- trend and standard.” euros, or about $95 at cur- sumers will be able to share Bulgari Parfums man- rent exchange, for the 50- their best beautiful moments aging director Valeria ml. bottle, and 93 euros, on Olay’s social media out- Manini said the new men’s OF BULGARI PHOTO COURTESY or about $138, for the 100- lets. The digital campaign launch was part of a larger strategy He set out to build the fragrance ml. version, making Aqua Amara will be followed by T V, to promote the best-selling Aqua and around mandarin, which he calls slightly more expensive than Aqua which will premiere during Omnia lines as high-end creations “floral, fresh and fruity.” Cavallier Pour Homme. A bath line and gift the Grammy Awards on Jan. “developed for a larger audience.” also said that while the patchou- set will also be available. 26, and print ads featuring “We are working very hard to lol — a specific part of patchouli Bulgari tapped model Jon the new Regenerist try to elevate what are considered — used in Aqua Amara gave the Kortajarena from Bilbao, Spain, Luminous collection the ‘entry’ product lines,” she said. fragrance masculine depth, ulti- for the advertising campaign, in February books. “There are two possible approaches mately a strong perfume is neither which breaks in February and The campaign here: either you treat the fragrance strictly masculine or feminine, and was shot by Mario Sorrenti on the follows past efforts as a big commercial blockbuster, or the fragrances customers choose island of Capri. Marini said the such as “Love the you say, no, we want to treat this like vary by culture. campaign would make use of print Skin You’re In” a very precious object.” “Ver y often, when a major — in glossies such as Esquire, GQ, and, most recently, To that effect, perfumer Jacques men’s fragrance works, women Details and Men’s Health — as “Challenge What’s Cavallier was meticulous in assem- wear it, too,” agreed Manini. well as the Web and television. Olay Regenerist Luminous products. Possible.” — M.P. 2014 CEWsPring CaLEndar of EvEnts

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cosmetics category Foreign Beauty Brands Scale Back in China is healthily growing, but it’s a very com- they are a very powerful force, and Vietnam, as well as a poor lion inhabitants, Revlon petitive landscape By CASEY HALL particularly on women,” he said. performance in China, where could be found in only 50 and I don’t see how and MOLLY PRIOR Though the $22.8 billion revenue slid 67 percent. Mainland China centers. you can break out Chinese cosmetics market dou- ConsumerEdge Research Yu, for one, believes without a huge in- PROMISE AND REALITY don’t bled between 2008 and 2012, analyst Javier Escalante said the problem of reach has vestment or distinc- always equate. according to a report by Fung that there are three factors cre- a lot to do with a lack of tive positioning.” The China beauty market is Group, a number of multination- ating pressure on multinational variation across retail Mintel’s chief maturing at a rapid pace, caus- al beauty brands have indicated brands: Chinese customers are channels, particularly a China market strat- ing growing pains for multina- they are feeling the pinch in showing a strong preference for poor online presence in egist Paul French tional beauty firms. Companies China, prompting beauty com- local brands and continually the world’s largest on- is unequivocal in increasingly find themselves panies to view their prospects switching to new brands creat- line beauty market. his assessment of competing against local brands there through a different lens. ing a great deal of brand rota- “In China, you need Revlon’s perfor- and navigating a rapidly evolv- Both L’Oréal and the Estée tion; online shopping is gaining a more diversified mix mance in China, say- ing retail channel where spe- Lauder Cos. Inc. continue to see steam — 20 percent of all cos- of channels. Revlon ing the company’s cialty chains and online retail- ample opportunity in China. metics sales already take place was in the department major failings were ers are gaining serious ground. Fabrizio Freda, Lauder’s presi- on the Web — and specialty re- stores in top-tier cities, its unfocused posi- South Korean brands, in partic- dent and chief executive officer, tail chains, which tend to show- but there was a lack tioning and product ular, are gaining in popularity made Asia a key priority early in case local brand’’ s, are gaining in of diversification in offerings in a coun- and putting pressure on Western his tenure, which began in 2009. importance. He noted that the channel strategy. More try where interna- beauty companies. He is now laser focused on the growth of the online and special- online and specialist Revlon is exiting China. tional brands have A number of foreign firms are development of China’s tier-two, ty channels, where bold product cosmetics stores should done better at the finding it difficult to compete in three and four cities, and likens claims abound across mass and have been brought into that premium end of the market and China, prompting some to tem- the development of those areas to luxury lines, could undermine mix,” he said. “I know they have a wide palette selection is not as per their enthusiasm for a mar- Lauder’s development in the U.S. brands’ ability to control the an e-commerce store on TMall, important in a society much less ket once considered the in the Sixties. “There shopping experience. But China but it’s about outperforming your multicultural than many of it’s land of unending prom- is potential for an remains an important market, competitors in all the channels. Western counterparts. ise. Last week, Revlon enormous amount of driving more than 40 percent of If you look at L’Oréal they have “Part of Revlon’s problem is Inc. said it would exit people to be urban- the world’s growth of premium a full-out presence across all of that the products they are look- China altogether, and on ized over the next skin care, said Escalante. the channels.” ing to push worldwide are not Wednesday L’Oréal con- five years,” Freda told products that are going to be firmed that it will stop WWD’s Beauty Inc in very popular in China,” he said. selling its Garnier brand August, adding that “Bringing over Olivia Wilde to in the country. one day consumption The Chinese beauty market has China, who no one knows, to Their actions are in tier-three cities will promote an age-defying product, now raising ques- be “huge.” matured, and the competition is stiff. is very weird to me.” tions about the state of L’Oréal, for its part, Far from being another in- China’s beauty market has decided to pull its dicator that the Chinese beauty for international play- Garnier brand from It’s very important to pay attention. market is becoming more diffi- ers and what it takes to China in a move that cult for international brands to succeed there over the the company said will Companies have to focus on what navigate, French sees L’Oréal’s long term. “enable its Consumer decision to discontinue Garnier “The Chinese beauty Products Division to the ground conditions are. in the market as exactly the market has matured, accelerate its con- kind of specific, high-end po- and the competition quest of the Chinese — PACO UNDERHILL, ENVIROSELL sitioning that has seen L’Oréal is stiff,” said Paco beauty market.” become the dominant interna- Underhill, founding Garnier account- tional player in China. president of Envirosell, ed for just 1 percent Many China-based analysts The departure from China will “L’Oréal is going to do fan- who has helped firms of L’Oréal China’s believe, in the case of Revlon save Revlon $11 million a year tastically in the high end. enter the market. “It’s total sales of $2 bil- at least, the failure to gain trac- as it sheds 1,100 jobs in a mar- Garnier is really like a Revlon- very important to pay at- lion in 2012. tion in the world’s third-largest ket that accounts for less than 2 type product. Elsewhere in the tention. Companies have L’Oréal will stop L’Oréal will focus cosmetics market has less to percent of net sales, the company world, it’s a supermarket brand to focus on what the selling its Garnier its efforts on its do with a general slowdown in said on Dec. 31 in a regulatory fil- and it’s not going to sit well in ground conditions are.” line in the country. two leading brands, China than problems with the ing with the U.S. Securities and the high end, so it makes sense A common mistake L’Oréal Paris, the New York-based company’s mar- Exchange Comm’’ission. for L’Oréal to dump Garnier and that some foreign brands have number-one beauty brand, and keting, product and retail strate- “It is a good long-term decision concentrate on where there is made, said Underhill, is to sell the Maybelline New York, number- gies in the country. since Revlon would benefit from money to be made,” he said. same products and assortment one makeup brand in China, The growth may not be as ex- releasing resources from China Despite Revlon’s decision and expect the Chinese consum- said a company spokesperson. plosive as seen in recent years, to invest in markets with bet- to leave China at this point, er to find it relevant. The key, he Other beauty firms are tak- but the skin-care and makeup ter prospects for the company,” analysts such as Yu aren’t con- said, is to “focus on local market ing a more cautious view on segments in China have in- said Euromonitor International vinced this is the end of the line research and be sensitive to local the market, as well. Procter & creased in the past 12 months, 9.4 Beauty and Personal Care senior for the cosmetics giant in such beauty issues.” For instance, he Gamble Co. recently indicated percent and 8.5 percent respec- analyst Oru Mohiuddin. an important market. noted that Asian consumers’ in- that its Chinese skin-care mar- tively from a year ago, according The Chinese market is cer- “I think their move now is terest in skin lightening products ket share was declining, and to Kantar Worldpanel China data. tainly a competitive one, with as about stopping the bleeding, has spawned ultraniche product Avon Products Inc. continues “The cosmetics market is very many as 5,000 brands, according to calling for a time-out and then segmentation, such as items for to struggle in China as it moves fragmented here, so you have to Charles de Brabant, founder and maybe coming back with a dif- underarm skin lightening. from a direct-selling sales compete aggressively for consum- ceo of luxury consultancy Saint ferent mix of marketing, prod- Underhill said the surge of model to retail boutiques. In its ers in this market. In Revlon’s Pierre, Brabant, Li & Associates. uct and retail channel strate- South Korean brands, naming in most recently reported quarter case, we see a serious lack of in- “If you don’t have an estab- gies,” he said, pointing out that particular AmorePacific, is turn- ended Sept. 30, Avon’s total rev- vestment in this area compared lished foothold, you are in a bit other international brands have ing up the competition in China, enues in Asia-Pacific declined with other international brands,” of trouble because China needs a taken a time out from China be- and many of them are fronted 22 percent to $167.4 million, said Jason Yu, general manager of lot of investment and if the coun- fore making a comeback. by Korean pop stars and soap or 19 percent in constant cur- Kantar Worldpanel China. try represents less than 2 percent “Multinational companies opera actress. rency. This was a result of the Another major issue is of your sales and you have 1,100 tend to be smarter the second “You cannot underestimate number of representatives de- Revlon’s lack of reach in such a employees, my intuitive feeling is time around,” he added. the impact of Korean pop music creasing across the region, and fragmented market — of China’s that they must have been bleed- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS and soap operas across Asia, of Avon’s exit from South Korea 160 cities with more than one mil- ing cash,” he said. “I think the FROM JENNIFER WEIL Dsquared2 Secures Crucial China Ruling

{Continued from page one} diplomatic channels, and allowing us to time that a Chinese court issues such a Dsquared2 layout, including the wooden discuss this at a European level, working verdict,” said Franco, adding that the elements and lamps with antlers evoca- with the ministry of commerce in China, Nuohe group has appealed the sentence. tive of Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian in promoting new laws on intellectual “We are going to resist.” twins who founded the company in 1995. property.” The Hangzhou court’s decision Franco also said that Dsquared2 has “They even add the Caten names on allows Dsquared2 to keep the brand’s been counting “on a very important the labels,” said Franco. “The limit was stores open and continue its retail ex- support from the malls that know the that the trademark office was merely pansion in China, which has been slowed true story and have supported us even looking at the registrations. This sen- down by the legal battle, said Franco. if the brand’s situation was not clear. tence now shows that a brand’s notoriety There are now ﬁve stores in China, in- This has allowed us to choose the best can help identify a company that is act- cluding two in Shanghai, one in Beijing, locations and partners.” Asked if the ing in a disingenuous way.” one in Nanjing and one in Hangzhou. In brand has been entangled in other legal Franco also credited Mario Boselli, 2014, the company plans to open bou- controversies, Franco said it has faced head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, tiques in Chongqing and Chengdu. “similar issues” in South Korea and for creating a link between the Italian “Now we have new material to return Thailand that were quickly resolved, Dean and Dan Caten

and Chinese embassies, “activating the to the trademark ofﬁce. This is the ﬁrst “in less than 12 months.” LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014 9 WWD.COM

means we are losing taste and value.” Staying hot is particu- Pitti Retailers See Tailored Boom in ‘14 larly important in Japan, where the consumers are cautious, an- FLORENCE — Despite a cloudy In contrast, Jim Heiser, pres- are cut short, and are available ticipating a raise of consumer economic climate, business is ident of Individualized Shirts, from slim to skinny. tax due in April. booming at the Pitti Immagine said he was expecting to see Meanwhile, knitwear set “What the crisis did is to make Uomo trade fair, which ends more of his product sold online the tone in Paolo Pecora’s ca- the retailer realize that he can’t its four-day run here today. rather than brick-and-mortar, sual yet sophisticated collec- sell anything and everything, The U.S., Far East and emerg- which is also a consequence of tion, which ran the gamut from but [must] choose a direction ing markets are bringing “qual- the youth movement. sporty bombers to cozy cabans. and stick to it,” observed Philip ity growth,” while a new, more Other standout brands at the The brand recently signed a li- Truyen, G-Star Raw’s interna- knowledgeable and sophisti- show included Italian Lardini, censing agreement with Gilmar tional account director. cated customer base is creating which offered a new take on Group for the production and The Dutch denim specialist’s momentum for upscale brands. classic tailoring, playing with distribution of its collections. newly introduced, art-gallery- “I’ve never seen retailers traditional patterns such as Another highlight was inspired retail concept, where write more orders,” said Eric Prince of Wales and hound- Britain’s Private White V.C. “denim connoisseurs” and live Jennings, vice president and stooth, while newly launched Gio Designed by Nick Ashley, the tailors are catering to the cus- fashion director at Saks Fifth Zubon made an impression with brand showcased sophisticated tomers’ individual needs, Avenue. He said he was particu- low-rise trousers. The high- outerwear pieces, including will be employed in “at least larly excited about the offering end label, which is under a trim moto jacket, lined in three new stores in Italy in contemporary tailoring. “With the Lubiam Group um- classic Harris tweed. this year,” said Truyen, an- so much color, texture and nov- brella, offers Japanese A strong push toward nouncing 100 more mono- elty, tailored clothing is definite- Isaia men’s clothing-in- the upper end of the brand openings around ly the new sportswear. It’s very spired pants that market was felt the globe by 2015. youthful,” he said, noting that he throughout the fair. In June, Pitti Uomo is looking forward to “a healthy “What customers is expected to attract and consistent growth” in the Private White V.C. are buying at full even larger crowds. category in 2014. price and at the As the founding or- Josh Peskowitz, men’s fash- beginning of the ganization of the ion director at Bloomingdale’s, season are items trade show is cele- believes this is due to a change that make a dif- brating 60 years, five of attitude. “Guys are dressing Lardini ference in their Florentine brands — up, incorporating tailoring in wardrobe,” ex- Salvatore Ferragamo, their wardrobes, and it’s becom- plained Tancrède Gucci, Emilio Pucci, ing a lifestyle.” de Lalun, general Roberto Cavalli and Among the brands riding the merchandise manag- Ermanno Scervino — trend is Brunello Cucinelli, which er at Printemps, whose will organize “special more than doubled its booth size budget is up by a comfort- events” to pay tribute this season to accommodate its able single-digit figure. to the city’s artisanship, new suit line, which is leaner This, however, is not while the Italian govern- and younger and targeted to the met without skepticism. ment is sponsoring the next generation of suit wearers, “The middle segment undertaking with 1.6 mil- particularly in North America. is disappearing,” noted lion euros, or $2.18 million The brand will open two flagships FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Hirofumi Kurino, chief at current exchange, the there in 2014, in Atlanta and San creative adviser of United single biggest investment of Francisco, with São Paulo and WWD.com/ Arrows. “It’s a tough situ- the Ministry of Economic Lima to follow suit. menswear-news. ation. Fashion is becom- Development for 2014. Kiton, meanwhile, observed ing more democratic; Paolo — PAULINA SZMYDKE, a clear shift in the age span of people get it easily and Pecora ALESSANDRA TURRA its customer base. “While five more quickly. But that Milano AND ALEX BADIA

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years ago, we were mostly selling sizes 52 to 56, today sizes 46 to 50 are in bigger demand,” said the brand’s chief executive ofﬁcer Antonio De Matteis. Delsiena The impact is also felt by Eidos, Isaia’s younger “broth- Belvest NOVELTY BOMBERS STATEMENT er,” now in its third season. The KNITS company, whose suits retail for $1,295, tripled its business in just Giuseppe Homme — Giuseppe Zanotti FUNCTIONAL six months, according to creative FASHION BAGS director Antonio K. Ciongoli.

Isaia continues to build its MAESTRI DAVIDE luxury sportswear offering, which strikes a chord with the former Soviet Union countries and the U.S. alike. “In 2014, China will also be very interesting for us,” said president and ceo Gianluca Isaia. “We plan to open 14 or 15 FURRY Gray stores there in the next ﬁve years SNEAKERS Mismo London with a new partner.” BY CARHARTT ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT 10 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014

Robin Siegel, the makeup artist she was paired with. “Robin All Smiles is the best makeup artist in the business. I never feel with Robin that I’m wearing makeup SHORTLY AFTER Cate Blanchett I remember we had a lot of fun and, today, I feel in particular wore a silver gown from Antonio together,” she said. “I think he that I’m glowing,” she said. Berardi’s pre-fall collection does very beautiful, classic, Potter, nominated for a to the New York Film Critics reinvented shapes that are the Golden Globe for her turn Circle Awards on Monday, the kind of shapes I’m obsessed as a breast cancer patient in actress was unknowingly seated with.” Although he didn’t share the NBC show “Parenthood,” near the designer that won her details, Berardi hinted that expressed gratitude for the fashion raves on a ﬂight to Los those shapes could be reaching transformative capabilities of Angeles, where he hosted a a wider audience soon. “The makeup artists and hairstylists. dinner Wednesday at Mr Chow. company is very, very small, but “I was asked if I wanted to Polite to a fault, Berardi it is about to get a lot bigger,” he shave my head, and I said I didn’t want to disturb Blanchett said. “It’s kind of scary because didn’t want to because my little Mamie Gummer to put a face behind the dress. then you know you have so many girl may have gotten freaked and Dianna Agron,

“I’m actually quite shy,” he more people to please, but, at out,” she detailed. “They both in Dior. BEAUTY/WIREIMAGE said after Nicole Richie, Ahna the end of the day, I love a worked so incredibly hard to O’Reilly, Emmy Rossum, Brie challenge.” make it look as real as possible. DIOR Larson, Dita Von Teese, Iggy Earlier that afternoon, It was a lot of time in the hair- orangey red Dior Beauty shade FOR Azalea and Kate Beckinsale actresses including Monica and-makeup chair every day.” for the daytime event. “I like to spent a healthy half- Potter, Kate Mara, Debby On a lighter note, makeup let one thing speak. If I were to Emily KEENAN hour or so fawning over Ryan, Mamie Gummer, artist Elle Leary brought a little wear a very saturated dress, I Blunt him before the meal Mary McDonnell, Dianna bit of spring to the winter by wouldn’t do this lip,” said Ryan. in Dior. — RACHEL BROWN STEFANIE of green prawns, Agron, Christina Hendricks painting Ryan’s lips with a bright BY drunken fish, and Emily Blunt ditched chicken satay and their husbands and OTHERS other Chinese boyfriends for Dior Nicole Kate delicacies got Beauty’s fifth-annual Richie in Beckinsale ALL under way. “I’ve luncheon benefiting Antonio in Antonio been incredibly good Operation Smile at Berardi. Berardi. tonight. I think it is so the Sunset Tower nice that people turn out. Hotel in L.A. The I always have the fear actresses were that people don’t come.” partnered with SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE; People, of course, have makeup artists, who, been increasingly turning sometimes in Hollywood, DONATO out for Berardi. Wearing a seem to be more critical. BY sleeved, calf-length black “When I’m doing creation of his, Von Teese movies, a good PHOTOS explained why she did so. relationship with your “We met maybe six years ago hair and makeup team is on a big photo shoot in the U.K. so important. They really FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE BECKINSALE

It was a circus-themed shoot. help you get in the mood,” AND We really hit it off on that day. said Mara with makeup WWD.com/eye. Liz Goldwyn So, when I got the invite artist Amy Chance in tow. and Christina RICHIE to come here, I jumped Emmy Rossum in McDonnell couldn’t Hendricks at the chance because stop gushing about Antonio Berardi. ROSSUM, Awards Bubble THE NATIONAL Board of sweat suit.’ Pajamas, really. But Review gala, which bowed they won’t let me.” A reporter at Cipriani 42nd Street in mentioned the ability to drink Manhattan on Tuesday night, alcohol during the evening’s is part of that annual extended ceremony, unlike at the Oscars. awards foreplay that takes place “Unless you’re clever enough without break until the Academy to pack a small miniature,” Awards in March. The New York Thompson said. “I once saw Film Critics Circle awards were Catherine Deneuve do it, and I’ve Monday, and the Golden Globes followed her ever since.” are Sunday. Trucker hats emblazoned with All the players who are the words ‘Prize Winner’ were expected to be contenders at the scattered all over the room as a Meryl Oscars were on hand in Midtown nod to Dern’s crotchety character Oscar Streep Emma Thompson to accept honors, or simply to do in “Nebraska,” where he wears Isaac some extra campaigning before one just like it. Streep wore one of Wednesday, the deadline to vote the hats when she took the stage. for Oscar nominations. “Oh, I’m not the prize A glance around the room winner,” she said, removing it found Leonardo DiCaprio, Martin from her head. “That’s so weird.” eye Scorsese, Bruce Dern, Emma Though the Oscar winner is an Thompson, Spike Jonze, Adèle awards contender herself for Exarchopoulos, Léa Seydoux, Bérénice “August: Osage County,” she Bejo, Michael B. Jordan, Meryl Streep was there to present an award and Ethan and Joel Coen as well to Thompson that described, in as Oscar Isaac, the star of their rhyme no less, her performance “Inside Llewyn Davis.” Others, as P.L. Travers in “Saving Mr. like Jessica Chastain and Edie Falco, Banks” as a “knockout.” didn’t have a horse in any of Scorsese and DiCaprio also the awards races but were there did a bit to accept an award for

to present. career collaboration — “The EICHNER Outdoors, the polar vortex Wolf of Wall Street” is their fifth had sent temperatures movie together. They started to STEVE Michael B. BY plummeting through New York read their thank-you speeches at Jordan City, and Thompson was making the same time, then fought over a case for comfort. “The best who would go first. Scorsese PHOTOS way [to survive] the red carpet jumped up on his tiptoes to like. Leo has all the qualities I’m is by wearing Ugg boots,” said reach DiCaprio’s height. “Movies looking for in an actor.” the actress. “But unfortunately, are work,” the filmmaker “ Yo u mean like an Italian last Leonardo I have not yet managed to said. “They’re a daily battle. If name?” DiCaprio cracked. Their DiCaprio persuade the people who style you’re gonna go into battle, you skit was a rehearsal of sorts for and Martin Jessica me at these times to let me do better go in with somebody you Sunday’s Globes, where “Wolf” is Scorsese Chastain that. I’ve begged, ‘Please let me respect, somebody you trust, up for two awards, including one wear my cozy little Uggs. And a and hopefully somebody you for the actor. — KRISTI GARCED WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014 11 WWD.COM

J. Press’ Madison Avenue The company said that until Goga Ashkenazi has launched FASHION SCOOPS store is closing. a space is found, customers can a new bag style for the house shop at J. Press’ other three called the Mosaic. East Coast locations or online. Based in part on a TISCI’S NIKE NOD: A special supplanting de Libran’s role. The company also operates a schoolbag that the Moscow- collaboration between Riccardo The last collection under her J. Press York Street store on bred billionaire carried as Tisci and Nike is said to be purview was the pre-fall range Bleecker Street in Greenwich a child, the bag features in the works, and could be unveiled earlier this week in Village, but that shop carries interchangeable parts that announced as soon as today. New York and characterized as the younger-skewed collection can be purchased and worn According to sources, a team effort. designed by Shimon and Ariel separately for a one-bag, many- Givenchy’s creative director has One source cautioned that Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons. styles concept. been in talks with the activewear de Libran remains under Okita admitted that the The bag is named Mosaic, firm, and odds are the contract and could take on other “temporary closing” of the according to Goga, because it is partnership will center around a assignments at the brand or flagship “will have an effect on a series of smaller parts pieced special sneaker design. parent LVMH Moët Hennessy our New York base business, together to create a whole, and It’s not the first time Tisci Louis Vuitton, a luxury with all the foot traffic that it was inspired by Madame has collaborated with Nike, conglomerate that spans such we have, but we are hoping to Vionnet’s collaborations with or designed a limited-edition names as Donna Karan, Fendi, STOP THE (J.) PRESS: J. Press is service our customer during Italian futurist-cubist artist sneaker. In 2010, he curated a Givenchy and Emilio Pucci. closing its Madison Avenue the absence of our store Ernesto Michahelles, aka special editorial project between Neither de Libran nor Vuitton store in Manhattan — but the through our e-commerce site Thayaht. It comes in two styles. artist Marc Turlan and Nike. Tisci officials could be reached for venerable men’s wear retailer and the D.C., New Haven and The larger version features a also contributed a design to comment on Thursday. expects to find a new location Cambridge [Mass.] stores.” structured rectangular “base” Converse’s Addict All Star line Jacobs has credited the by next year at the latest. — JEAN E. PALMIERI that can be carried on it own or in 2011. — MARC KARIMZADEH uberstylish de Libran, raised The landlord of the building as a clutch. in France and California, with at 380 Madison Avenue at 46th GOGA’S NEW BAG: After just Additionally, the oil tycoon- EXIT STUDIO LEFT: Julie helping construct Street, where J. Press has more than a year as the turned-fashion designer de Libran, one of the FOR MORE Vuitton’s rtw atelier, been since 2007, is planning to creative director and chairman crafted “faces” that serve as a creative engines SCOOPS, SEE and he often shared renovate the entire building of the Parisian label Vionnet, contrasting flap and strap to the behind Louis the spotlight with and is forcing the closure of the bag, which is snapped on, and Vuitton’s fashion WWD.com her and other key store, the company said. Its last finally, a third component, the business, is no longer deputies, including day in business will be Jan. 18. pouch, which zips onto the back working in its Paris men’s studio and style “We were trying to of the face and can be easily studio, market sources said. director Kim Jones. seamlessly complete the zipped off for a grab-and-go of As studio director of women’s Popular among the fashion relocation by the end of the essentials, i.e., credit cards, ready-to-wear, de Libran has press, she had been touted as a the lease, but real estate keys and phone. been the front woman for possible successor to Jacobs by has its challenges, and we The bags, which will hit

Vuitton’s cruise and pre-fall some French editors. will continue to update our ERICKSEN KYLE stores at the end of June, retail collections under former artistic De Libran joined Vuitton in customers on our relocation at approximately $1,500 for director Marc Jacobs, who exited 2008 as a design director after a plan,” said Yuki Okita, president the large base, $1,300 for the last October to concentrate on 10-year career at Prada, working and chief executive officer of J. PHOTO BY smaller; the faces start his signature fashion house. beside Miuccia Prada to help Press. The company is owned at approximately It is understood his successor establish the Italian firm with by Japan’s Onward Kashiyama. $885 and $665 for Nicolas Ghesquière, who is slated celebrity and event dressing. Okita said the goal is to large and small, to unveil his first collection Her résumé also includes stints “reopen our flagship by spring respectively, for Vuitton during Paris at Versace, Jean Charles de of 2015 at the latest. If we can depending on Fashion Week, has brought in Castelbajac and Gianfranco Ferré. find the right place, we might be The new Mosaic bag with the materials. a number of new collaborators, — MILES SOCHA able to open within this year.” interchangeable pieces. — ROXANNE ROBINSON

Lafayette Street and Great Jones Street MEMO PAD in New York, is set in a beat-up bathroom stall in The Old School in SoHo. Featuring model Anna Ewers dressed in STARLETS FOR MIU MIU: Miuccia Prada has Wang’s spring looks, the campaign photos turned to four of Hollywood’s top emerging were shot by photographer Steven Klein with stars for the Miu Miu spring campaign. the creative by Pascal Dangin of Kids Creative. Elle Fanning, Bella Heathcote, Lupita Nyong’o “Since the spring-summer 2014 and Elizabeth Olsen are lensed by Inez van collection plays on the duality of naïveté Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who captured and perverse explicitness in youth culture, the individual style of each actress. we wanted to shoot the campaign in a very small space Each poses against familiar environment contrasting walls in Lupita Nyong’o most people grow up saturated shades of for Miu Miu. reminiscing about,” said blue, red and violet and Wang of his inspiration multicolor floorboards, for the campaign. “I which highlight the loved blurring the lines diverse prints and between censorship materials of the clothes and humor.” and accessories, such as Karl Templer was thick wool stockings in responsible for the styling rich yellow, red and pink paired with ruby of the campaign, with makeup, hair and Mary Janes, lace-up knee-highs or crystal- manicure credits going out to Diane Kendal, studded platform sandals. Paul Hanlon and Gina Edwards, respectively. Incidentally, Nyong’o, together with Ads are set to run in spring issues of Dane DeHaan and Léa Seydoux, who also front fashion mags such as Love, CR Fashion campaigns for Prada, are three of the five Book, Self Service and Interview Rising Stars 2014 nominees at the BAFTA magazine. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD awards to be held in London next month. Big DeHaan is seen in Prada’s men’s campaign LABRACIO JOINS CNE: Condé Nast for spring and Seydoux in the Prada Entertainment has added another exec Candy ads and Miu Miu pre-collection to its roster. images for spring. — LUISA ZARGANI The entertainment wing of the publishing firm named Joe LaBracio as WANG’S CENSORY PERCEPTION: Alexander executive vice president of alternative Business Wang’s spring ready-to-wear campaign programming on Thursday, following its takes a different approach to “in-stalling” a hire of chief revenue officer Lisa Valentino billboard. It also reveals his sense of humor. two days earlier. LaBracio will report to The ad, set to make its debut CNE president Dawn Ostroff. He will be midmonth on the billboard located on responsible for “developing and producing WWD Marketplace is the premier destination unscripted programming” inspired by for the industry’s classified and career listings. Anna Ewers in Condé Nast publications, CNE said. Alexander Wang’s Most recently, LaBracio served as the spring campaign. cohead of alternative television at United Talent Agency, where he worked on building the company’s international format, broadcast and cable television business. 800.423.3314 Prior to that, he worked as an agent in the television department of Creative Arts Agency. He has also held executive posts at CBS, where he oversaw the production wwd.com/marketplace of “The Amazing Race,” “Big Brother” and “Rock Star,” among others. — A.S. 12 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM McComb Passes Corporate Reins to Leavitt {Continued from page one} promoted to president and chief operat- William L. McComb ing officer of Kate Spade & Co. Deborah Lloyd will continue in her role as chief KATE SPADE creative officer of the renamed company. In addition, the company plans to name Last Brand Standing Thomas Linko, presently chief financial officer and chief operating officer AS WILLIAM L. MCCOMB passes of Juicy Couture, as cfo of Kate Spade & the baton to Craig Leavitt, he’s Co., after the Juicy wind-down is substan- handing over a company project- tially complete. Leavitt and Lloyd will ing significant growth in its primary join the company’s board. The corporate business: Kate Spade. name change and management transition Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc. said the are slated to take place following the re- Kate Spade business saw adjusted lease of fourth-quarter earnings results earnings before interest, taxes, on Feb. 25, at which time the company depreciation and amortization of will begin trading on the New York Stock about $130 million last year on sales Exchange as “KATE.” of $742 million, according to pre- While the company didn’t detail liminary figures. For 2014, sales are McComb’s severance package, it does projected to grow 10 to 13 percent, JOHN AQUINO plan to incur a onetime, noncash sever- THOMAS IANNACCONE pushing EBITDA to a range of $165 ance charge of $16 million and cash sev- million to $175 million. Craig Leavitt erance charges of $7 million associated Comparable sales for Kate PHOTO BY with the senior management transition. PHOTO BY Spade’s stores rose 12 percent in In addition to McComb, others leav- team,” said McComb. He said the con- cally a mandate from Wall Street,” said the fourth quarter, while comps in- ing F&P are Jane Randel, senior vice cept has always been that any one of the McComb, about the future of Kate Spade. cluding both stores and e-commerce president, corporate communications, three (Juicy, Kate Spade and Lucky) or Leavitt added, “Bill hired all of us in shot up 30 percent. and Robert J. Vill, senior vice president, all of the three would eventually go the 2008, and has been a great mentor for us McComb said last year was “all finance and treasurer. way “of becoming their own brand. Juicy as we’ve built this business seven-and-a- about bringing Kate Spade to its Throughout his difficult tenure, and Lucky will do that through the route half times since that point. This is really full potential.” McComb aimed to transform the com- of private investors, and Kate will go the a story about continuity. We are adding The company gave a glimpse pany from a domestic wholesaler of public platform route,” he said. additional resources to the Kate Spade of its plans for the brand this year women’s moderate and better-price McComb explained that when he team. There’s continuity with an en- in a Securities and Exchange sportswear to a firm that was primarily a hired the teams and had three indepen- hanced management focus.” Commission filing late Thursday. direct-to-consumer retailer of global life- dent companies “they were really incu- McComb said one of the high points of The newly dubbed Kate Spade style brands. He narrowed the portfolio bators,” and he ran the three businesses his tenure was learning a new business & Co. intends to strengthen its and expense structure so that resourc- very separately. “Each had the resources “while standing on the balls of my feet on “channel agnostic approach,” es were focused on high-margin, high- that they needed and each had their own hot planks.” “enhance use of partnerships for growth segments of the industry. The independent challenges,” he said, noting As for his future, he added, “I have margin expansion,” “increase transition was often painful, McComb that he didn’t view it as a horse race. absolutely no plans. Up until two in the investment in marketing” and was frequently criticized, and the stock morning last night, I’ve been up to my further develop the Kate Spade took a beating, especially during his eyeballs in running this company and Saturday brand. early years on the job. At the company’s working on these things. I usually don’t Overall, that incudes opening 35 May 2008 annual meeting, for example, The Stock Ticker go through the same thing twice, I’ve doors in North America this year, McComb defended the company’s strat- Adjusted closing prices for Fifth & Pacific done consumer products, pharmaceuti- while opening another 55 in the rest egy, which had included the elimination Cos. Inc.’s — or Liz Claiborne Inc.’s — stock cals, medical devices and fashion and re- of the world (up to 30 with partners) of 1,300 jobs, including 25 percent of its during William’s McComb tenure as ceo. tail. Who knows what’s next? I have a big as well as a move into new catego- management positions. Despite disap- interest in venture capital and emerging ries and the introduction of e-com- pointing earnings and a lagging stock First Day High Low Thursday companies. I like this whole incubating merce in Europe and Asia. price, Claiborne’s board members re- of companies, but we’ll see.” While growing rapidly, Kate mained behind McComb and his plan 11/6/06 2/20/07 11/20/08 1/9/14 When asked how he would assess his Spade will also have to carry cor- and consistently dismissed growing tenure, he said, “I’m really proud of it. porate costs, which the firm ac- speculation that they were questioning All along we reassessed, we reacted and counted for as adjusted losses McComb’s performance. Rather, they at- $40.31 $45.06 $1.65 $31.86 it was a crisis from the very beginning, in before interest and so on of $65 tributed the missed earnings to inherited a way that I’m not sure the industry un- million last year. That will fall problems, changes in the wholesale mar- SOURCE: YAHOO FINANCE. derstood back then, and maybe they still modestly to losses of $50 million to ketplace and macroeconomic issues. don’t understand.” He noted that the leg- $55 million this year. Speaking at the WWD CEO Summit “It’s been an incubator that has grown acy apparel brands, which were the first With the exception of relatively in October, McComb recalled, “Those and grown and grown and now it’s a full that he sold off, brought him a lot of criti- small and profitable Adelington years — 2008, 2009 and early 2010 — house. I think we have the operating cism. “They were in fact pivotal to allow Design Group jewelry business, were really dark days,” he said, noting platform and the operating culture [at us to make the investments and to carry Kate Spade will be free of the last that Claiborne’s shares fell to $1 and they Spade] to deliver on all this promised an expense structure that got us through vestiges of the former Liz Claiborne were facing bankruptcy. McComb rode growth,” he said. In fact, at Kate Spade’s the worst of the tough times. I think that Inc. portfolio, which included more the waves, made several bold moves and Investor Day last spring, Leavitt said he the jury is in.” than 30 brands at its height. remained consistent in his strategy to sees the Kate Spade brand as a $4 billion McComb said he never had an activ- Lucky Brand, which Fifth & build companies that could stand alone. retail opportunity. ist in its boardroom. “It’s no secret our Pacific agreed to sell to Leonard “Job one is to build value, job two is to McComb pointed out that Spade “was stock dropped from near $40 to a low on Green & Partners for $225 million, study ways to unlock value,” he said in an really adrift,” when Claiborne took it Nov. 20, 2008 of $1.65. That’s a stunning drew adjusted EBITDA of $46 mil- interview last year. over from Neiman Marcus in 2007. “It set of statistics.” But he doesn’t believe lion from sales of about $520 mil- McComb said Thursday that he’d been was small, and we didn’t have to strip it things would have unfolded differently if lion last year. That deal is expect- planning this move for awhile. down to rebuild it.” The Lucky and Juicy he had an activist in the boardroom. “We ed to close in the first quarter. The “I always viewed that my role would brands were $500 million each, and al- were the activists ourselves. I don’t think company is also in the process of go away, when frankly, my work was most all wholesale. “Converting those it would have changed,” said McComb. winding down its Juicy Couture done. The team that has brought the platforms at scale into retail businesses After rising 1.5 percent to $31.86 in business, the intellectual proper- brand to this point can and should take was very difficult,” he admitted. “Rare Thursday’s trading session, shares of the ty of which was sold to Authentic the company over. There shouldn’t be is it that you have an opportunity with company dropped 2.8 percent to $30.98 in Brands Group last year. a layer between Wall Street, the invest- such high growth and a long runway tra- after-hours trading following the news of — EVAN CLARK ment community and that management jectory. That when you’ve got it, it’s basi- McComb’s impending departure.

collection of ready-to-wear for men and Da Vinci Invest Purchases Bruno Magli women. Fortelus took control of the brand from private-equity fund Opera. clusive negotiations with a consortium the world. I trust in the management of the Ebensberger, who succeeds Armin By LUISA ZARGANI of South Korean investors that included company that will be fully dedicated to the Mueller, said the company, which is to E-Land Group and Asian private equity development of this brand.” remain headquartered in Italy, was “very MILAN — Swiss independent asset investor CDIB Capital to sell the entirety The London-based Fortelus had start- excited about the opportunity to continue management firm Da Vinci Invest AG of the storied Italian footwear brand. ed a turnaround of Bruno Magli in 2007, the global relaunch of the brand and to has acquired Bruno Magli SpA from Hendrik Klein, owner of Da Vinci tapped Max Kibardin as the brand’s cre- provide consistency in our product and Fortelus Capital Management LLP and Invest AG, which is based in Zurich and ative director in 2011, and strengthened market development. The new ownership appointed Manfred Ebensberger as the manages its own investment funds and its distribution network in Europe, the will provide the strength and ﬂexibility brand’s new chief executive officer ef- individual accounts of private investors, Middle East, the U.S. and Asia, while also to accelerate this process. We now look fective immediately. said on Thursday: “I am very convinced of developing a strong wholesale organiza- forward to the next phase of growth while This is a surprising twist as the British the investment we did with Bruno Magli, tion globally. The company has been ex- preserving the values of distinctive design investment fund Fortelus Capital, which a brand representing the excellence of panding its product range from the core and workmanship, outstanding quality acquired Bruno Magli in 2007, said at the Made in Italy and of the manufacturing of footwear business. Today, it markets shoes, and strong heritage, which are a funda- end of October it had entered into ex- its products, which are renowned all over bags, small leather goods and a capsule mental part of the Bruno Magli identity.”