Mediterranean Marine Science

Vol. 12, 2011

"Protected" marine shelled molluscs: thriving in Greek seafood restaurants

KATSANEVAKIS S. European Commission, Joint Research Centre, Institute for Environment and Sustainability, Ispra POURSANIDIS D. TerraSolutions, Arximidous 63, Irakleio, Kriti ISSARIS Y. Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, Institute of Marine Biological Resources, Agios Kosmas, P.C. 16610, Elliniko, Athens PANOU A. Archipelagos – environment and development NGO, 14561 Kifissia, Athens PETZA D. Ieroloxiton 6, 15342 Agia Paraskevi, Athens VASSILOPOULOU V. Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, Institute of Marine Biological Resources, Agios Kosmas, P.C. 16610, Elliniko, Athens CHALDAIOU I. Archipelagos – environment and development NGO, 14561 Kifissia, Athens SINI M. Department of Marine Sciences, University of the Aegean, 81100 Mytilini https://doi.org/10.12681/mms.42

Copyright © 2011

To cite this article:

KATSANEVAKIS, S., POURSANIDIS, D., ISSARIS, Y., PANOU, A., PETZA, D., VASSILOPOULOU, V., CHALDAIOU, I., & SINI, M. (2011). "Protected" marine shelled molluscs: thriving in Greek seafood restaurants. Mediterranean Marine Science, 12(2), 429-438. doi:https://doi.org/10.12681/mms.42

http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:09 | http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:09 | Mediterranean Marine Science Research Article Indexed in WoS (Web of Science, ISI Thomson) and SCOPUS The journal is available on line at http://www.medit-mar-sc.net

"Protected" marine shelled molluscs: thriving in Greek seafood restaurants

S. KATSANEVAKIS1, D. POURSANIDIS2,3, Y. ISSARIS1, A. PANOU4, D. PETZA5, V. VASSILOPOULOU1, I. CHALDAIOU4 and M. SINI3

1 Hellenic Center for Marine Research, Institute of Marine Biological Resources, 46.7 km Athens-Sounio, 19013 Anavyssos, Greece 2 WWF Hellas, Ethnikis Antistaseos 82, Heraklion, Kriti, Greece 3 Department of Marine Sciences, University of the Aegean, 81100 Mytilini, Greece 4 Archipelagos – environment and development NGO, 14561 Kifissia, Athens 5 Ieroloxiton 6, 15342 Agia Paraskevi, Athens, Greece

Corresponding author: [email protected]

Received: 17 June 2010; Accepted: 19 September 2011; Published on line: 21 September 2011

Abstract

International agreements as well as European and national legislation prohibit exploitation and trading of a number of edible marine shelled molluscs, due to either significant declines in their populations or destructive fishing practices. However, enforcement of existing legislation in Greece is ineffective and many populations of ‘protected’ species continue to decline, mainly due to poach- ing. The extent of illegal trading of protected bivalves and gastropods in Greek seafood restaurants was investigated by interviewing owners or managers of 219 such restaurants in 92 localities. Inter- views were based on questionnaires regarding the frequency of availability in the menus and the ori- gin of twenty-one species or groups of species, among which eight are protected - illegally exploit- ed. Forty-two percent of the surveyed restaurants were found to serve at least one of the protected - illegally exploited species. Among the illegally traded species, Lithophaga lithophaga, Pecten jacobaeus, and Pinna nobilis were served in a relatively high proportion of the surveyed restaurants (22.8%, 19.2%, and 16.4% respectively), outrunning many commercial species. In many cases these species were always or often available (11.4%, 4.6% and 5.0% respectively). There was substantial spatial variation in the proportion of restaurants that illegally served protected species with differ- ent patterns for each species; very high proportions of illegal trading were observed in some marine regions (e.g. date mussels were served in >65% of the seafood restaurants along the coastline of Evvoikos Gulf). In most cases the illegally traded species were of local origin, while there was no finding of illegally imported molluscs from other countries. The strategy for enforcement of exist- ing legislation should be greatly improved otherwise protection of shelled molluscs will remain inef- fective.

Keywords: Marine conservation; Endangered molluscs; Habitats Directive; Enforcement; Poaching.

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:09 | Introduction Convention), and national regulations, such as the Presidential Decrees (PD) 67/1981, Exploitation of marine molluscs in Greece 86/98, 227/2003, and 109/2002. For species has a history dating back to the Paleolithic included in Annex IV of the Habitats Direc- age (SHACKLETON & VAN ANDEL, tive, all forms of deliberate capture or killing 2007; VOULTSIADOU et al., 2010; STIN- of specimens in the wild, deliberate distur- ER & MUNRO, 2011). Aristotle was the bance, deliberate destruction or collection first to describe the morphology, reproduc- of eggs from the wild, and deterioration or tion and life-cycle characteristics of some destruction of breeding sites or resting places mainly edible gastropod and bivalve species. are strictly prohibited. For species included The works by Aristotle, Hippocrates, in Annex II of the Bern Convention, the col- Xenocrates, Galen, Dioscorides and Athenaeus lection, keeping in captivity, killing, de- showed that among the 35 exploited marine struction or collection of eggs, disturbance invertebrates recorded in the texts, 20 were especially during the reproduction period, molluscs (VOULTSIADOU et al., 2010). possession or commerce of live or dead spec- Later on, Plenius provided information on imens are strictly prohibited (however, al- certain molluscs that were exploited by the though Greece has ratified the Bern Con- ancient Romans either for food or for jew- vention, invertebrates were excluded from ellery making. The same species targeted by the relevant national law 1335/1983). For ancient Greeks and Romans are still exploited species included in Annex II of the Proto- today in the Mediterranean Sea, often with col of the Barcelona Convention, collection, similar fishing practices. capture, killing, commerce, transportation Among the ~1,100 bivalve and gastro- and disturbance especially during repro- pod species that have been recorded from duction should be prohibited or controlled the Greek Seas (DELAMOTTE & (however, Greece has not yet ratified the VARDALA-THEODOROU, 2007), twen- relevant part of the protocol, including An- ty-one are of commercial importance for nex II). The Presidential Decree (PD) 67/1981 fisheries and aquaculture (KOUTSOUBAS prohibits killing, causing injury, capturing, et al., 2007). Apart from those species, a few collection, commerce and transportation of other edible bivalves and gastropods used all included species. Furthermore, accord- to be exploited in the past but their harvesting ing to the PD 86/98 (regarding shell-fishing) is now banned due to either significant de- as reformed by the PD 227/2003, and the clines in their populations (e.g. in the fan PD 109/2002 (regarding fishing baits), fish- mussel Pinna nobilis) or destructive fishing ing, transportation and commerce of any practices (e.g. the fisheries of the date mus- species of shelled molluscs not included in sel Lithophaga lithophaga) (KATSANEVAKIS the lists of these PDs is prohibited. et al., 2008). However, enforcement of existing legis- The existing legislation for the conser- lation by the Greek authorities is largely lack- vation of marine species includes the Euro- ing and many populations of “protected” pean Habitats Directive (92/43/EC), the Bern species in Greek waters continue to decline, Convention, the Protocol for Specially Pro- mainly due to poaching (KATSANEVAKIS tected Areas and Biological Diversity in the et al., 2008; KATSANEVAKIS, 2009a). Re- Mediterranean of the Barcelona Conven- creational fishing for food or shell collection tion (hereafter: Protocol of the Barcelona are probably the two major causes of mor-

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:09 | tality of many shelled molluscs. Neverthe- and the imported Mytilus edulis, Mytilus trossu- less, many of the “protected” shelled mol- lus, Perna canaliculus, and perhaps other luscs are still commercially exploited and il- species. Oysters served in Greece mainly be- legally traded, ending up in seafood restau- long to the native species Ostrea edulis but rants. The aim of this study was to investi- the alien species Crassostrea gigas is imported gate the extent of illegal trading of protect- and served as well. Three species of abalones ed bivalves and gastropods in Greek seafood are native of the Mediterranean Sea, Hali- restaurants and to reveal potential spatial otis tuberculata, H. mikonosensis, and H. stom- patterns within Greek coastal regions. atiaeformis, of which the first two are com- mon in the Greek Seas (CROCETTA & Materials and Methods RISMONDO, 2009). Two species of razor clams (Solen marginatus and Ensis minor), The survey protocol was based on struc- three species of limpets (Patella caerulea, tured interviews of owners or managers of Patella rustica, and Patella ulyssiponensis), seafood restaurants in Greek coastal areas. and three species of monodonts (Osilinus A questionnaire was filled by the interviewer articulatus, Osilinus turbinatus, and Phorcus including information on the location of the mutabilis) are present in the Greek Seas and restaurant (marine region and locality), the have been exploited for food (KATSA- date, the frequency of availability of the tar- NEVAKIS et al., 2008). get species, and their origin (if known), i.e. The interviewer asked for the availabil- the marine region where they have been ity and origin of each target species using its fished. common name(s) and showing its picture to Twenty species or groups of species the interviewee to avoid misidentifications. (when identification on species level was not Five levels were used to categorize the fre- certain) were included in the list of target quency of availability: never, rare (at least species, consisting of both legally exploit- once in the last three years), occasionally ed and protected species (Table 1). Alien (only on certain days, e.g. weekends, or shelled molluscs that are exploited and served periods, e.g. during Lent), often (available in Greek restaurants, such as Pinctada ra- during >50% of the working days), al- diata and Conomurex persicus (ZENETOS ways/almost always (available during >80% et al. 2010), were excluded from the analy- of the working days). The interviewees were sis. There is a paradox in the existing legis- also given the chance to make any comments lation concerning their exploitation: they are they wished on shelled molluscs exploitation not included in the lists of the PDs (86/98, and trading, which was also noted in the 227/2003, and 109/2002) regulating shelled questionnaires. molluscs exploitation and thus their ex- To reduce the possible hesitation by ploitation is prohibited; however these in- some of the interviewees to give honest an- vasive species should not be considered as swers: (1) we kept the questionnaires anony- being in need of protection. mous and no personal data of the intervie- Identification on species level was un- wee or the restaurant were asked or kept; certain for mussels, oysters, razor clams, (2) it was stated that “the survey aimed to abalones, limpets, and monodonts. Mussels quantify the variety of traded marine mol- served in the Greek restaurants include the luscs in seafood restaurants” and there was native Mytilus galloprovincialis (wild or farmed) no mention of “protected species” or “leg-

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:09 | islation”; (3) the questionnaire did not fo- The survey was conducted between June cus on protected - illegally exploited species; 2009 and June 2011 and a total of 219 in- the majority of the included species were terviews were conducted in 92 localities. Th- legally exploited and traded (Table 1). ese interviews were spatially distributed in

Table 1 Mollusc species included in the survey questionnaires. The legislation regulating their exploitation (for commercially exploited species) or for their protection (for protected - illegally exploited species) is indicated. BC = Bern Convention, PBC = Protocol for Specially Protected Areas and Biological Diversity in the Mediterranean of the Barcelona Convention, HD = Habitats Directive (92/43/EC), PD = Presidential Decree, B = Bivalve, G = Gastropod.

Species scientific name Greek/English common names Legislation COMMERCIALLY Legislation regulating EXPLOITED exploitation Mytillus spp., Perna canaliculus B mydia/mussels PD 227/2003 Ostrea edulis, Crassostrea gigas B stridia/oysters PD 227/2003 Callista chione B gyalisteri/smooth callista PD 227/2003 Arca noae B kalognomi/Noah’s ark PD 227/2003 Solen marginatus, Ensis minor B solinas, ammosolinas/razor clam PD 109/2002 Vennus verrucosa B kydoni/warty venus PD 227/2003 Modiolus barbatus B chavaro/bearded horse mussel PD 227/2003 Flexopecten glaber B gialistero chteni/smooth scallop PD 227/2003 Solecurtus strigilatus B samari, zamponaki /sandwich PD 109/2002 Haliotis spp. G afti tis thalassas/lamellated haliotis PD 227/2003 Hexaplex trunculus G strobos/banded murex PD 227/2003 Bolinus brandaris G agathotos strobos/spined murex PD 227/2003 Patella spp. G petalides/limpets PD 109/2002 PROTECTED - ILLEGALLY EXPLOITED Legislation for protection Lithophaga lithophaga B petrosolinas, valanos,chourmas HD, BC, PBC, PD /European date mussel 109/2002, PD 227/2003 Pinna nobilis B pinna /pen shell, fan shell HD, PBC, PD 67/1981, PD 109/2002, PD 227/2003 Pholas dactylus B daktilo, ftera aggelon, folada BC, PBC, PD 227/2003, /common piddock [PD 109/2002]* Spondylus gaederopus B gaidouropodaro, vassiliko stridi PD 109/2002, PD 109/2002, /European thorny oyster PD 227/2003 Pecten jacobaeus B megalo chteni /Jacob scallop PD 109/2002, PD 227/2003 Tonna galea G bouchona, kochyla /giant ton BC, PBC, PD 67/1981, PD 109/2002, PD 227/2003 Oscilinus spp., Phorcus G salingarakia/monodonts PD 109/2002, PD 227/2003 mutabilis *Although Pholas dactylus is protected by the BC and PBC, it is included in the list of legally exploited species for bait.

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:10 | all marine regions of Greece. For the needs respectively), outrunning many commercial of the present analysis Greek waters were species. L.lithophaga had been systemati- divided into seven marine regions (sample cally served (i.e. reported frequencies were size in parentheses): North Aegean (46), either often or always/almost always) in 11.4%

Fig. 1: Map of the study area, subdivided into 5 marine regions. All surveyed localities are indicated with red dots.

South Aegean (25), Ionian Sea (30), Korinthi- of the surveyed restaurants, while for P. ja- akos & Patraikos Gulfs (23), North & South cobaeus and P. nobilis the corresponding Evvoikos Gulf (21), Saronikos & Argolikos percentages were 4.6% and 5.0%. One restau- Gulfs (44), and Kriti (30) (Fig. 1). rant (in North Aegean), had often served the gastropods Charonia lampas and Cha- Results ronia variegata (not included in the ques- tionnaires); these species are protected by All target species or groups of species the Bern Convention and the Protocol of were included among the served dishes in the Barcelona Convention. Greek seafood restaurants with frequencies There was substantial variation in the varying from 93% (for mussels) to 1.4% (for trading of protected molluscs through seafood Tonna galea and Solecurtus strigilatus) (Fig. restaurants among the Greek marine regions 2). Forty-two percent of the surveyed restau- (Fig. 3). Date mussels were served in >65% rants were found to have served (even rarely) of the seafood restaurants along the Evvoikos at least one of the illegally exploited species. Gulfs (systematically in nearly 50% of the Among the illegally traded species, L.lithopha- restaurants), where they are considered a ga, P. jacobaeus, and P. nobilis were served great delicacy and there is a long standing in a relatively high proportion of the sur- tradition of date mussel exploitation and trad- veyed restaurants (22.8%, 19.2%, and 16.4% ing. High values were also found in the Sa-

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:10 | Fig. 2: Percentage of surveyed seafood restaurants that served the target species. Blue colour indicates commercially exploited species, while red colour indicates protected - illegally exploited species. The filled portion of each bar corresponds to restaurants that serve the species often or always/almost always, while the unfilled portion corresponds to restaurants that serve the species occasionally or rare. ronikos & Argolikos Gulfs (date mussels had gally imported species from other countries. been served in 25% of the restaurants; sys- tematically in 16%), in North Aegean (served Discussion in 24% of the restaurants but systematically in just slightly over 2%), and in Korinthiakos It was evident from the questionnaires’ & Patraikos Gulfs (served in 17.4% of the results that enforcement of existing legis- restaurants; systematically in 13%). For P. lation for the protection of marine molluscs nobilis, P. jacobaeus, Oscilinus spp. & P. mu- is ineffective. An astonishing large percent- tabilis the highest percentages were observed age of Greek seafood restaurants have been in the North and South Aegean Seas. In these serving protected species. It is quite possi- regions, P. nobilis was served in 37% and ble that this percentage is even higher, as 32% respectively of the seafood restaurants. some of the interviewees were very cautious In almost every case the protected - il- and it is likely they did not give truthful replies legally exploited species being served were for illegally traded species. of local origin, i.e. they had been harvest- Continuing exploitation of protected ed in the same marine region as the locali- species has serious implications: ty of the restaurant. There were very few ex- (1) The populations of all protected mol- ceptions where the illegally exploited species luscs included in this survey (with the served had been harvested in other marine exception of monodonts for which there regions (13% of the cases for P. jacobaeus, is no assessment) are declining in the 6.1% of the cases for L. lithophaga, 4.2% of Mediterranean and in Greek coastal ar- the cases for P. nobilis, and 0% for all oth- eas (KATSANEVAKIS et al., 2008). er species). There was no finding of ille- Protection through international agree-

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:10 | Fig. 3: Trading of protected - illegally exploited molluscs through seafood restaurants among the Greek marine regions (as defined in Fig. 1). The percentage of the surveyed restaurants that have been serving the target species is given. The filled portion of each bar corresponds to restaurants that serve the species often or always/almost always, while the unfilled portion corresponds to restaurants that serve the species occasionally or rare. P. dactylus and T. galea were excluded due to a low sample size.

ments and European or national legis- restaurants might render the achieve- lation was decided on the basis of a need ment of this goal unfeasible. to reduce mortality and to allow these (2) Weak enforcement and ineffective sur- populations to recover. Continuing in- veillance leads to an overall bad men- tense exploitation for trading in seafood tality of non-compliance. Stakeholders

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:10 | (fishermen, traders, restaurant owners) Greek legislation since the early 80s, its pop- that complied with regulations and re- ulation keeps declining and it was recently stricted their former range of activities assessed as vulnerable, according to the feel deceived and adopt a sceptical or national IUCN criteria (KATSANEVAKIS, negative attitude towards legislation for 2009b). However, as demonstrated in this protection of marine species. Restaurant study, P. nobilis is still commercially exploit- owners, who might not wish to illegally ed and served in Greek fish restaurants. In serve protected species, are forced to do addition, poaching by recreational or pro- so in order to face competition. fessional fishers and divers for personal con- (3) The country faces the risk of defama- sumption or collection of its shell is quite sig- tion by other European and Mediter- nificant and appears to be a major threat ranean countries due to the infringe- to the conservation of the species (KAT- ment of its international commitments SANEVAKIS, 2009a). to the protection of vulnerable marine The European date mussel, Lithopha- species and habitats. It also takes the ga lithophaga, is an endolithic species living risk of penalties by EU for the violation inside carbonate rocks (limestone) in the of the Habitats Directive (in the case of midlittoral and upper sublittoral zones. Date L. lithophaga and P. nobilis). mussel harvesting is usually conducted by The fan mussel, Pinna nobilis, is a good SCUBA divers equipped with special sledge- example of the failure of the Greek au- hammers, who break rocky substrates re- thorities to enforce the existing protection moving the first centimeters of rock to col- measures. P. nobilis is an emblematic species lect the bivalves (DEVESCOVI et al., 2005). of the Mediterranean Sea, as it is endemic Such fishing practices cause direct damages and the largest bivalve in the region, at- to benthic assemblages by eradicating ses- taining total anterio-posterior lengths of sile animals and algae, alter biotic interac- up to 120 cm (KATSANEVAKIS et al., 2008). tions, and favour local increase in sea urchin Fan mussels live with the anterior portion of population densities and the persistence their shell partially buried, at depths between of rocky barrens (FANELLI et al., 1994; 0.5 and 60 m typically in soft-bottom areas GUIDETTI, 2011). To prevent a large scale overgrown by seagrass or in unvegetated degradation of shallow rocky habitats, the sandy bottoms (KATSANEVAKIS et al., date mussel fishery was banned in most 2008). Since ancient times, P. nobilis has been Mediterranean countries. However, in many exploited for its byssus, from which an ex- areas of the Mediterranean Sea illegal date tremely fine and valuable fabric is produced, mussel fishing is still practiced (FRASCHET- the so-called ‘sea silk’. It has also been ex- TI et al., 2011; GUIDETTI, 2011). In the ploited for human consumption and the col- past, L. lithophaga was extensively exploit- lection of its shell. Due to overexploitation ed in the Greek seas and it was found in and incidental killing by trawlers, bottom seafood markets and fish restaurants in many nets, or anchoring, the global population locations (KATSANEVAKIS et al., 2008). of P. nobilis has been greatly reduced during As demonstrated herein, despite its protec- the past few decades. Consequently, it has tion status, extensive exploitation continues. been listed as a protected species in the Recreational poaching might be diffi- Mediterranean Sea and is under strict pro- cult to control in a country of 16,000 km of tection (Table 1). Despite its protection by coastline, with >2,000 islands and islets, nu-

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http://epublishing.ekt.gr | e-Publisher: EKT | Downloaded at 02/10/2021 11:42:10 | merous coastal villages, and many thousands consumption in seafood restaurants being of recreational fishermen. However, com- one important contributing factor. mercial exploitation, transportation, com- merce, and supply in fish restaurants are Acknowledgements much easier to control. The enforcement strategy in the case of seafood restaurants We would like to thank Alexandra may encompass a range of discursive and Michailidou, Panayotis Kritsikis, Vassilis coercive measures, ranging from shelf-reg- Tselentis, Vasilis Gerovasileiou, Anastasia ulation to aggressive enforcement activities. Gazi, Kaloust Paragamian, Thanos Gian- Discursive (or preventive) enforcement nakakis, Afroditi Kardamaki, Stamatis through environmental education and aware- Moschus, Argyro Kaiserli, Manolis Barda- ness of both related stakeholders and the nis, Hector Giourgis, and Stamatis Kyriakidis public (consumers) aims to increase com- for their assistance. munity capacity, which refers to the rules, procedures and values that people hold, pre- References disposing them to work collectively for mu- tual benefit (RUDD, 2000). If community CROCETTA, F. & RISMONDO, S., 2009. capacity is low, illegal activities are likely to Haliotis mykonosensis Owen, Hanavan occur. & Hall, 2001 in the Procida Island (Gulf However, discursive enforcement will of Naples) and in the Central Mediter- not suffice alone. Economic gains from il- ranean Sea, with notes on the Mediter- legal exploitation of protected species can ranean HALIOTIDAE. Mediterranean be very high and thus the potential for poach- Marine Science, 10 (2): 139-144. ing will always exist. By increasing the sever- DELAMOTTE, M. & VARDALA- ity and likelihood of sanctions (criminal or THEODOROU, E., 2007. Shells from civil penalties, restaurant permit sanctions) Greek seas. Athens, Goulandris Natur- and thus raising the opportunity cost of non- al History Museum, 313 pp. compliance, enforcement systems act di- DEVESCOVI, M., OZRETIC, B. & IVESA, rectly upon resource users to foster adher- L., 2005. Impact of date mussel har- ence to established rules (MASCIA, 2004). vesting on the rocky bottom structural There are many examples where aggressive complexity along the Istrian coast (North- enforcement dramatically increased com- ern Adriatic, Croatia). Journal of Ex- pliance (MASCIA, 2004). Enforcement sys- perimental Marine Biology & Ecology, tems also affect compliance indirectly by af- 325 (2): 134-145. fecting rates of “contingent compliance”, FANELLI, G., PIRAINO, S., BELMONTE, where individuals base their decision to com- G., GERACI, S. & BOERO, F., 1994. ply with regulations upon the perceived rate Human predation along Apulian rocky of compliance by others (MASCIA, 2004). coasts (SE Italy): desertification caused It is clear that if the current low levels of by Lithophaga lithophaga (Mollusca) enforcement carry on, the targets set by Euro- fisheries. Marine Ecology Progress Series, pean and national conservation policies as 110: 1-8. regards marine shelled molluscs will not be FRASCHETTI, S., TERLIZZI, A., met. The populations of “protected” marine GUARNIERI, G., PIZZOLANTE, F., shelled molluscs will continue to decline, with D’AMBROSIO, P., MAIORANO, P.,

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