Kenzo Nerazione Future Di Ricordare Kenzo Takada

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Kenzo Nerazione Future Di Ricordare Kenzo Takada _ D gimiranza. L’unica cosa che non è riuscito a dominare è stato il Covid-19, malattia che non risparmia nessuno: né celebrità, né gente co- mune. Sfortunatamente, il famoso stilista si è spento a Neuilly-sur-Seine il 4 ottobre 2020, all’età di 81 anni per complicazioni causate dal Coronavirus. Il genio non ci lascia, rimane vivendo nei nostri cuori e ricordi. I suoi cari e _ Alla memoria “del amici, daranno sempre la possibilità alle ge- Sol Levante” Kenzo nerazione future di ricordare Kenzo Takada. Ricordare un designer e una persona dalle Inga Koval qualità straordinarie, è come tuffarsi nell’at- mosfera misteriosa della terra del Sol levan- Kenzo Takada è stato un vero innovatore e te. Perché le collezioni create da Kenzo, genio. Nel settore della moda è riuscito a cre- sono un evidente omaggio ispirato al folklore. are, ciò che nessuno aveva fatto prima, pren- L’estetica del folklore emerge vivida in ogni dendosi non pochi rischi. È sempre riuscito aspetto dell’opera di Kenzo Takada. ad essere padrone delle sue idee, riuscendo La divulgazione dello stile giapponese tra i ad innovare il suo lavoro con creatività e lun- clienti europei è stato un enorme contributo Kenzo Takada durante “Lviv Fashion Week spring/summer 2011” Lviv Ukraine, 30 ottobre, 2010, via Shutterstock 39 di Kenzo al mondo della moda. Lo stilista è la sua prima boutique era una stanza della riuscito perfettamente a giocare con ispira- Galerie Vivienne dietro l’Opéra di Parigi. Per zioni diverse nelle sue opere: la passione per portare vivacità e luminosità a queste pareti, il folklore di vari paesi è stata sicuramente Kenzo le decorò con dipinti nello stile di Hen- l’anima delle collezioni della maison Kenzo. ri Rousseau, nei quali venivano raffigurati fiori Riusciva facilmente a gestire la sorprendente tropicali, foglie e animali. Ne erano presenti miscela di motivi nazionali diversi: russi, in- anche nelle collezioni del designer, e conti- diani, cinesi, sudamericani e anche africani. nuarono a vivere anche adesso. Takada è stato uno dei più grandi e signifi- I suoi indumenti erano molto diversi dagli abi- cativi creatori giapponesi di moda della se- ti abbastanza rigidi degli stilisti francesi degli conda metà del XX secolo. Ha iniziato il suo anni ‘60. Lui ha trovato il modo di incrociare “Fashion trip” negli anni ‘70, diventando par- la sensualità e il glamour parigino. ticolarmente popolare negli anni’ 80 e all’ini- Un certo “gioco” con il cotone, che è stato zio degli anni ‘90. Negli ultimi anni, Takada utilizzato molto poco nelle Maison parigine, si era ritirato dalle scene. Dopo un lungo ri- ha permesso a Kenzo di sperimentare con pensamento, Kenzo decise di vendere la sua grandi proporzioni e un taglio libero. Maison alla holding LVMH, guidata da Ber- Le maniche a sbuffo, i pantaloni alla turca e i nard Arnault. Dopo aver appreso della scom- kimono risultavano casual, giovanili e innova- parsa di Takada, Arnault ha espresso le sue tivi. L’estetica di Takada era stravagante per condoglianze alla famiglia: “Kenzo Takada è quell’epoca, e lo rese famoso per gli anni. stato un grande uomo che, dal 1970, portò Anche le sfilate della Maison erano brillanti nella moda, una nota di leggerezza poetica e e affascinanti. Takada non conduceva mai dolce libertà che continua ad ispirare i giova- le sfilate in maniera tradizionale. Incarnava ni designer di oggi”. interi spettacoli con grande luminosità e vi- Formazione di Kenzo vacità. La prima collezione venne presentata Kenzo Takada, sembrava in apparenza un all’interno della sua Maison. Era un spettaco- uomo modesto e schivo, ma il suo animo era lo brillante di danza, dove lo stilista decise di un esempio di particolare ribelle. Nel 1965, sostituire le classiche modelle francesi con lanciò una sfida ai suoi genitori e a se stesso: ragazze ordinarie che conosceva. Le ragaz- é andato a vivere a Parigi. Era molto ispirato ze erano vestite in maniera molto particolare da questa città, che però riusciva a vedere per l’epoca. I loro visi furono dipinte in colori solo in fotografia. Appena giunto a Parigi, Ta- diversi e sgargianti. In conclusione, tutta sfi- kada fu un po’ deluso nello scoprire la città lata fu accompagnata con musica rock-glam. cosi “ad oculos”. La città gli aveva lasciato Takada fu soprannominato da diversi quoti- davvero una terribile prima impressione. Un diani e riviste come “il veggente della nuova giorno il giovane designer vide la Cattedrale moda”, perché il suo mondo creativo appari- di Notre Dame, e trovandola triste, decise di va fresco e innovativo. portare la gioia in quella struttura così cupa. Nel 1976, Kenzo fu costretto a cambiare il Dopo questa scelta significativa, infonden- nome della sua Maison, perché “ Jungle Jap dosi un po’ di coraggio, Takada ha deciso “ si rivelò offensivo per il popolo giappone- di andare percorrere la sua strada creativa se. Decise di cambiarlo con il suo cognome fianco a fianco Parigi. Decise di dimostrare Kenzo. Questo passo ha significato il picco a tutti che anche l’impossibile può diventare massimo della sua popolarità. Ogni sfilata si possibile e che le sue idee avevano il diritto trasformava in spettacoli grandiosi. I biglietti di essere espresse. venivano esauriti immediatamente. Negli anni ‘ 70, Takada ha aperto la sua pri- Kenzo è conosciuto come uno dei primi sti- ma boutique lanciando un marchio chiamato listi che ha iniziato a creare le sue collezio- Jungle Jap, che simboleggiava le sue due ni insieme a marchi economici. Il “New York passioni: il Giappone e la giungla. I suoi pri- Times” ha definito questo passo, come “un mi look erano pieni di motivi floreali, maniche approccio innovativo”, però tante altre Mai- a sbuffo, silhouette e kimono. La sede del- sons avevano timore di farlo. Kenzo credeva 40 che la moda dovesse essere accessibile a tutti, non solo ad una categoria particolare di persone. Dopo la vendita della Maison, alla holding LVMH nel 1993, Takada lavoravo lì per altri sei anni. Le ragioni per non abbandonarla erano tante: numerosi amici, colleghi e per- sone famose avevano fatto insieme a lui que- sto grande progetto. Dopo aver lasciato la Maison, Kenzo si de- dicò al design di mobili e interni. Takada or- ganizzava mostre dei suoi dipinti, e creava costumi per l’opera a Tokyo. Nel gennaio 2020, Takada ha introdotto sul mercato il marchio di lusso K-3. Anche se Kenzo Takada ci ha lasciato, rima- ne per noi un esempio di grande genialità ed estro creativo. I suoi progetti affascinanti, che portano una luce positiva e magica, ri- marranno vivi nella nostra memoria. Per saperne di più David Dawkins. L’arte di vivere: il fondatore di Kenzo Kenzo Takada muore per compli- cazioni Covid-19 // Forbes.ru, 06.10.2020: https://www.forbes.ru/forbeslife/410617-vo- ploshchenie-iskusstva-zhit-osnovatel-ken- zo-kendzo-takada-umer-ot-oslozhneniy Libro illustrato “Kenzo Takada” (Inglese), 1 febbraio 2019, Chihiro Masui (Autore), Ka- zuko Masui (Collaboratore); Libro illustrato “Kenzo” (Italiano), 9 novem- bre 2011, Kenzo Takada (Autore), Antonio Marras (Autore), M. Carozzi (Traduttore), I. Katerinov (Traduttore), C. Maiocchi (Tradut- tore); Libro “Fashion Memoir Kenzo” (Inglese), 1 giugno 1999, Ginette Sainderichin (Autore) 41.
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