Clockwise from top left: , Park; Junior Rangers play bingo with local wildlife; Everglades National Park from above; riding an airboat through the River of Grass; an alligator swimming in the wetlands; a boardwalk leads deeper into the park; red flamingos; the Ochopee post office is the smallest in the country.

38 SPRING 2019 PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: RAQUEL GISBERT GIL/ALAMY; ; JUAN CARLOS MUÑOZ/ALAMY; ISTOCKPHOTO (2); TONY GALE/OFFSET; ISTOCKPHOTO; OVIDIU HRUBARU/ALAMY; ISTOCKPHOTO (PHONE); ISTOCKPHOTO (BACKGROUND) and naturally abundantplacetogether. comes from exploringsuchauniquely alligators from aboardwalk—the joy country’s tiniestpostoffice,orspotting ofGrass, visitingthe through theRiver family decideon—ridinganairboat appeal. access points,eachwithitsown NationalEverglades Park hasthree main Your are justasvaried: optionsforentry sloughs (low-lying, waters). slow-moving swamps,and tropical forests), cypress hardwood hammocks(dryandshaded include coastalmarshes,pinelands, asits1.5millionacres, which as diverse that livewithinthepark’s boundsare of thisfragile ecosystem. Theanimals $25 avehicle) passes, (305-242-7700; nps.gov; seven-day Orlando, ’s trueheart. thatis vast subtropical wilderness forests calledtheEverglades. It’s this a sprawling networkofwetlandsand tipis southern But nearlyitsentire THESE THREE WAYS FLORIDA’S THREE SIDE ARE THESE WILD EXPERIENCE TO EASIER—AND MORE SURPRISING—THAN YOU THINK. MIGHT SURPRISING—THAN MORE EASIER—AND " EVERGLADES Whichever approach youandyour Whichever beginupnear Although theEverglades Everglades NationalPark beach and the theme parks.beach andthetheme Florida isallaboutthe FOR MANYPEOPLE, protects onlyafraction CHOOSE YOUR OWN

ADVENTURE all over thecourse ofaweek onthesameseven-day parkpass. quarters andanaccess pointcloseto itsedge. You canvisitthem State Hwy. 9336, Homestead; 305-242-7700) park. To reach it,you’ll pass the Lodge Hwy., Homestead; 239-695-2945) 3311) Visitor Center west ontheroad liesEverglades Cityandtheremote lies rightoffthe , asectionof U.S. Highway 41. Farther SW EighthSt., ;305-221-8776; nps.gov for allvisitors’ centers) are mainentrypoints.The Everglades National Park hasfour visitors’ centers, three of which THE LAY OFTHELAND VISITOR CENTER COAST GULF 10 miles GULF OF MEXICO . To thesouth,there’s the EVERGLADES CITY

(815 Oyster Lane, Everglades Bar City;239-695- VISITOR CENTER EVERGLADES NATIONAL FLAMINGO Shark Valley Visitor Center PARK VISITOR CENTER SHARK VALLEY Flamingo Visitor Center Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center FLORIDA VISITOR CENTER ERNEST F. COE , setdeeperwithinthe , thepark’s head­ TERRY WARD HOMESTEAD ATLANTIC OCEAN BY Gulf Coast

(36000 (36000 (1 Flamingo (1 Flamingo WESTON MIAMI

(40001 (40001 f ENDLESS VACATION

39 39 402019 SPRING (1006 U.S. Hwy. 27,Weston; 888- At a highlycaffeinated water bug. swamplandslikearea’s shallow vesselsskip across the powered excursions. Theflat-bottom, fan- scores ofoperators leadairboat enter thepark.Justeven outside, activities.in acitybetween ideal forfamilieswhowantto stay Still,it’s nearest parkentrance. it’s anhour’sdrivefrom the although edge oftheEverglades, Weston backsupalongtheeastern front itmakes upforinwilderness. But whatthetown lacksinwater 25 mileseastinFort Lauderdale. minus thebeach,whichisabout ¦ The adventure startsbefore you The adventure Sawgrass RecreationPark URBAN-ADVENTURE expect from Florida expect from Florida ture comfortyoumight Weston crea hasevery WESTON ANDSHARKVALLEY: ITINERARY

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- THE the SharkValley Observation Tower affords From left:OneoftheSharkValley Visitor calamari, fish,andmussels topped jalea mixta in citrusjuicesistasty, asisthe two, $30*) lunchfor 1102; laperlaweston.com; SW 160thAve., Weston; 954-385- Perla SeafoodBar&Grill ing atPeruvian restaurant make youhungry. lunch Consider and theelusiveFloridapanther. includingbobcats native denizens, has ananimalexhibitshowcasing ofGrass.glades: River 1947Douglas’s book, Stoneman Marjory ronmentalist saw-grass marshesandto envi toname refers theslow-moving ofGrass.called theRiver That 4–12, $13) 30-minute airboatrides,$23;children 424-7262; evergladestours.com; Center’s tram tours; along Tram Road, All thatwindinyourhaircan 360-degree views ofthepark. , airboatsexplore what’s . Thecorvinamarinated —a pile of deep-fried —a pileofdeep-fried Sawgrass also The Ever La

(1396 - - - times, roseate spoonbills. rent Or the like), cormorants, and,at and of wadingbirds (blueherons spring months,soare all­ and,duringthe common here fresh ramp thatleadsto ofthe views Tram Road before stopping ata $13) trams in thispartofthepark.Open-air nodriving there’s your carhere; Shark Valley Visitor Center. Leave you in how toyou inhow goonyourown. can instruct those times,rangers advance to signup);outside of (besure tountil March callin December fromwalks are offered long pantsare required.) Thefree swamp. (Closed-toed shoesand trek through acypress-dome ing onasloughslog, aranger-led views. optionisembark Another vation Tower ping atthe hour) one ofthepark’s bicycles along theTamiami Trail to the with cilantro, corn,andlime. From Weston, it’s47 miles carry families deeper inalong carryfamiliesdeeper ​water slough.Alligators are to pedalthesame trail, stop

Everglades City Hall. (rides, $25; children 3–12, (rides, $25;children Shark Valley Obser for panoramic manner manner ($9 an - - -

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE (2); HELEN BRYAN; ISTOCKPHOTO (BINOCULARS); ISTOCKPHOTO (BACKGROUND). ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHAEL HOEWELER PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE (2); HELEN BRYAN; ISTOCKPHOTO (BINOCULARS); ISTOCKPHOTO (BACKGROUND). ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHAEL HOEWELER *Estimated mealprices donot includedrinks, tax,ortip. Shark Valley foralong itinerary onto tackthem can either your Trail from SharkValley. You 45 mileswestalongtheTamiami " QUIRKY-MEETS-NATURE EVERGLADES CITY ANDTHEGULFCOAST: CITY EVERGLADES Center lieanother the GulfCoastVisitor CityandEverglades More than40speciesofmammalsthrive intheEverglades, makingitathrill ITINERARY

THE for kidsandadultsalike. Here, afew to lookfor. WILDLIFE SPOTTING Ochopee; 239-695-2275; skunkape Ochopee; quarters the road marks awaits. ABigFoot–style statueby City, achapter from quirkyFlorida day orvisitthisarea onitsown. But before you reach Everglades But before youreach Everglades

(40904 Tamiami Trail E., elsewhere intheU.S. since itdoesn’tneed extra fat to protect itfrom winter’s chill. The Everglades’ variety issmallerthan Skunk ApeHead official marinemammals eat sea grass WHITE-TAILED DEER Nicknamed “sea cows,” Florida’s WEST INDIANMANATEE and otheraquatic plants. f the Everglades’ cypress swamps This spotted beautyprowls and hardwood hammocks. ​ f - Between 120and230ofthese BOBCAT in thewildSouthFlorida. 800-275-8777) Office Ochopee Post at more than350 pounds. Goldie,whotipsthescales python, are boundto thereticulated love exhibit.incredible reptile Thekids feeforthesmallbut the entrance ornot,it’sworth you’re abeliever he callstheSkunkApe.Whether lore ofaSasquatch-like creature Dave ShealystokesOwner the 4–12,$6) .biz; adults,$12;children endangered cats still live FLORIDA PANTHER It’s to amilefarther the f is agoodplace to spottheseweb- The springat theAnhingaTrail footed, water-loving creatures. (38000 Tamiami Trail E.;

NORTH AMERICAN f

RIVER OTTER , reportedly the , reportedly the

hardwood hammocks. climb trees isat home The onlyfox that can f in theEverglades’ GRAY FOX

f

ENDLESS VACATION .

41 41 which opened back in 1928. backin1928. which opened the creation ofthe Tamiami Trail, includes anox yoke usedduring free) admission, evergladesmuseum.org; Ave., City;202-252-5062; Everglades Everglades topop over the $30), St.; 239-695-2003;lunchfortwo, lia StreetGrill crabs andgator bites at manatees, stingrays, anddolphins. park-trained naturalist pointsout islets)whilea chain ofmangrove the Ten ThousandIslands (a 5–12, $16) children boat tours,$32aperson; toursgulfcoast.com; 90-minute 2591; evergladesnationalparkboat City;239-695- Lane, Everglades Park BoatTours ter. Here, reach theGulfCoastVisitor Cen wait to getonthe water untilyou after into another view, but bring oneairboat-ride operator City the turnoffforEverglades since1953. office, inoperation cards withphotos ofthepost tohere buyprestamped post from around theworldstop pipe storage shed.People a tomato farm’sirrigation- works insidewhatoncewas tiniest intheU.S. Asinglestaffer You canfueluponstone fourmilesto The remaining . Its fascinating collection . Its fascinatingcollection in Everglades City. inEverglades Then steers travelers among Everglades National Everglades National

(105 W. Broadway Museum ofthe

(202 Camellia (202 Camellia

(815 Oyster Bar Bar (815 Oyster Camel

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- ​ - for overlooks andtrails, too.for overlooks the FlamingoVisitorto Center the ErnestF. CoeVisitor Center State Highway 9336thatgoesfrom along the38-mile-longstretch of both liveinthewild.)You canstop they only partoftheworldwhere crocodiles. (South Floridaisthe tats mix,andsodoalligators and freshwater andsaltwater habi hastothe Everglades offer.” Here, pass through allthehabitats that Rudypark ranger Beotegui. “You sayspicture oftheEverglades,” " HOMESTEAD ANDTHEROAD TOFLAMINGO: you getthecomplete road to Flamingo, youtake“When the DRIVE-THROUGH ITINERARY -

THE here dailyat10:30a.m. here live.Rangers leadwalks otters tors, andstreamlined river herons, a freshwater alliga sloughwhere walk andpaved pathways circle Everglades.sential Amixofboard 0.8-mile loop,whichisquintes your caronlyonce,make itforthis Anhinga Trail From it’sfourmilesto here the historyEverglades’ andwildlife. an 18-minute filmaboutthe F. CoeVisitor Center to watch pausingattheErnest consider stead andbefore thepay station, Park signsouthofHome entrance After National theEverglades . Ifyougetoutof From left:Aranger takes tour oftheEverglades; handmade milkshakes handmade milkshakes travelers onaguided from Robert IsHere.

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PHOTOS, FROM LEFT: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE; SWEET SONG PHOTOGRAPHY; ISTOCKPHOTO (CAMERA); ISTOCKPHOTO (BACKGROUND) PHOTOS, FROM LEFT: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE; SWEET SONG PHOTOGRAPHY; ISTOCKPHOTO (CAMERA); ISTOCKPHOTO (BACKGROUND) 239-695-2101; doublesfrom $150 anight 200 Riverside Dr., Everglades City; in thishistoric hunting andfishing lodge. resident Ernest Hemingway have stayed Presidents, celebrities, andFloridaKeys Everglades Rod &GunClub MEMBER REVIEW: features. challenging bunkers, andbeautifulwater courses, eachamixofrolling greens, Have your pickoftwo championshipgolf at Bonaventure Vacation Village $15;two-hour two-hour bikerentals, 708-2207; ­ 855- (Flamingo VisitorCenter; Everglades GuestServices and crocodiles,” Beotegui says. opposite, withsaltwater habitats to see,becauseit’stheexact expecting is whatfolksaren’t Flamingo then in theEverglades, is whatpeopleare expectingto see tor Center. “IftheAnhingaTrail once yougetto theFlamingoVisi Things startto lookdifferent and additionalresort listings, visitRCI.com orcall800-338-7777 (Weeks) or877-968-7476 (Points). 16461 Racquet ClubRd., Weston flamingoeverglades.com; “Excellent staff.” 4025 RCI STAY

For complete memberreviews (asmemberreviews have beencondensed) ® Club Members,pleasecallyour specificCluborRCI telephone number. AFFILIATED

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NON-RCI AFFILIATED RESORTS spacious andtidy.” MEMBER REVIEW: Weston at Bonaventure. Shares amenitieswithVacation Village Vacation Village at Weston for two,$12) milkshakes 1592; robertishere.com; SW 344thSt., Homestead; 305-246- go to manatees, sharks. orhammerhead spot crocodiles as well as dolphins, the water andonland,youmight canals orFloridaBay. From both paddling outinto thesurrounding coastal trails, aswellkayaks for which youcanpedalalongshort $23) kayak rentals, RESORTS IN SOUTHFLORIDA INCLUDE: may berequired) from $159 anight (four-night minimum 7676; premierehotel.com; doubles Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-566- outdoor pool. popular withrepeat guests wholove the A renovated 1960s-era hotel that’s Premiere Hotel When you’re ready foratreat,When Robert IsHere

625 N.Fort Lauderdale about10milesoutside 16461 Racquet ClubRd., “The rooms are

rents bikes, rents

(19200 5773

had everything we needed.” MEMBER REVIEW: Jacuzzis. comforts ofhome, plusprivate decksand Bright cabana-style suites withthe Town Center Mizner Place at Weston with yourkidsto wildFlorida? thanraising aglass your adventure to end couldbeabetter What of sweetpotato andalmonds). pink fruitthattastes like aunion mean key (a pale limeormamey glorious Floridaspring, thatmight with whatever isinseason. In the forthemilkshakes,here made produce stand.Butyou’re open-air locally—spillfromare this grown vegetables—the bulkofwhich of thepark.Tropical fruitsand $179 anight evergladescamping.net; huts from Tamiami Trail, Ochopee; 800-504-6554; the surrounding wilderness. Overnight inscreened hutsoverlooking Trail Lakes Campground 1775 Bonaventure Blvd., Weston 7559

“Close to town and

40904

ENDLESS VACATION

43