Explore the winter magic of another era by foot, ski or snowshoe in Bay View,

By MELANIE RADZICKI MCMANUS TRIBUNE | FEB 18, 2021 AT 5:00 AM

Bay View, Michigan The charming summer homes in Bay View, Michigan, range from simple cottages to ornate mansions. (Melanie Radzicki McManus / for Chicago Tribune)

1 / 15 Jane says it’s OK — everyone does it. Still, I feel a little guilty as I walk up the steps of the pale green cottage and peer right inside the front window. I see a fairly typical living room, except for the jumble of brightly colored toys piled in one corner. And the bike leaning against the wall. Signs of a hasty departure, perhaps.

Back on the sidewalk, my husband, Ed, and I continue down the deserted block, looking for more uncovered windows. Many homes have their shades drawn, or even boarded-up windows. Others have their porches wrapped in thick sheets of plastic, preventing you from getting too near. Like this stately white home with black trim that catches my eye. I walk up to its hermetically sealed porch to read the small sign leaning against one pillar. It proudly lists the five families who have owned it since its construction in 1897, along with their dates of ownership. The home’s current owners, the Mitchells, bought it in 1994.

Now I’m cupping my hands around my face to better see inside a modest structure. Its plain doors, cabinetry and trim are simply crafted, exuding a homey, days-of-yesteryear feel. My only disappointing snoop comes on the back steps of an impressive Victorian home, where I peek inside and spot a totally renovated, modern kitchen. Not a shred of Bay View’s vintage charm remains.

Bay View is a National Historic Landmark neighborhood on the shores of Little , 2 miles northeast of Petoskey, Michigan. It began life in 1875 as a Methodist summer camp for revivals and spiritual renewal, but quickly morphed into one of the Chautauqua institutions popular at the time. These groups offered lectures, classes and programs aimed at intellectual, spiritual and cultural growth.

Within two years, 20 small cottages dotted Bay View’s newly platted streets. By 1900, there were 400, ranging from simple structures to ornate Victorian mansions. A central campus boasted an auditorium, performance halls, library and more. Bay View Woods, a 137-acre natural area, was tucked in back.

While the U.S. Chautauqua movement largely died out by the 1920s, Bay View survived. Today, more than a century later, it still offers Chautauqua-styled events and programs each summer that draw tens of thousands, in addition to the cottage owners. But come winter, Bay View shuts down. Bay View Association bylaws stipulate that owners may only occupy their cottages from May to November. The historic Bay View and Terrace inns are the only structures that may remain occupied.

To locals and others in the know, this is when the magic begins. Gone are the throngs of people and vehicles that clog the streets, beaches and byways. Serene silence falls over the slumbering neighborhood, which is enhanced when the snow begins to fly, covering the streets, cottages and woods in a thick blanket of white. With most of the streets left unplowed, the public is welcome to walk, snowshoe and even ski along Bay View’s tangle of deserted streets, or to get lost in the trails winding through Bay View Woods.

Jane Millar, the woman who encouraged our cottage-peeping, is one of the rare cottage owners who lives nearby. Every winter, she and other locals hike through Bay View’s snowy streets, often just to peek into cottage windows. “It’s funny to see how some people leave everything immaculate before they go, while others just leave everything where it is, so there are toys all over,” she said.

Ed and I now turn toward the lake. Bay View perches on Little Traverse Bay, with its acreage spreading eastbound from up a steep, wooded hill. But U.S. 31 slices through that acreage, separating a narrow ribbon of lakeshore cottages from the bulk of their siblings up the hill. Would the vibe here be less charming?

Like the hillside cottages, many of the lakeshore abodes are painted in pretty pastels, providing a pleasing pop of color against the snow. Some sport names, like Joy Cottage and Tilt N Hilton. We ponder whether these lakeshore homes are pricier than the ones up the hill, which are closer to the central campus.

Mike Spencer, executive director of the Bay View Association, says that the lakeside cottages are generally more valuable due to their proximity to the water, those that sit along U.S. 31 — even though they’re just a half-block from the lake — can get nicked for that. The cottages abutting Bay View Woods also tend to be more valuable, due to the privacy the woods afford.

But it’s probably worthless to ponder purchasing one of these homes. Many are passed to family members through the generations; Millar’s once belonged to her parents. In addition, only about 10 cottages come up for sale annually, Spencer says, with an average sale price of $250,000 to $350,000. If that’s not in your budget, 30 to 40 cottage owners rent their places each summer.

Back on the hill, we duck into Bay View Woods, which features nearly 3 miles of trails. The paths take us on a meandering trek through beautiful stands of mixed hardwoods. We also cross marshland and a cedar-hemlock swamp. As the sun begins to sink, we head to our lodging at the Terrace Inn.

Opened in 1911, the Terrace Inn is a rambling, multistory building with beautiful woodwork and lovable creaks and groans. “I don’t think any of the floors here is level,” says one guest, an older man whose ski club typically rents out the entire inn for a weekend every winter.

Innkeepers Mo and Patty Rave say most winter visitors come to the Petoskey area because of its proximity to the popular Boyne Mountain and Nubs Nob ski resorts. The locale is also a draw due to its plethora of wineries, shops, restaurants and more. Few know about, or think about, exploring Bay View. Even those who stay at the Terrace Inn.

And maybe that’s a good thing. For if the neighborhood were filled with people, the magic of these snow-globe-worthy streets would be lost. Besides, it’s no fun to window-peep when people are watching.

If you go Bay View is a 5½ hour drive from Chicago. Book a room at the Terrace Inn (231-347-2410; theterraceinn.com) near Bay View’s central campus. The homey inn has 38 rooms in a range of sizes and amenities, plus a spacious lobby with a roaring fireplace. Stafford’s Bay View Inn (800-258- 1886; thebayviewinn.com), built in 1886, sits near Lake Michigan and is a local landmark. The inn has 31 rooms, all with Victorian decor. 1911 Restaurant (within the Terrace Inn) features fine-dining dishes such as hardwood-planked and Parmesan-crusted whitefish and wagyu sirloin, while City Park Grill (432 E. Lake St.) is the place for caprese grilled cheese and steak-on-a-stick with blue cheese dipping sauce. Melanie Radzicki McManus is a freelancer.

Melanie Radzicki McManus For Chicago Tribune