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The Alpine Club of Canada | Le Club Alpin Du Canada Winter | Hiver 2017

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The Alpine Club of Canada | Le Club Alpin Du Canada Winter | Hiver 2017 Vol. 32, No. 3 The Alpine Club of Canada | Le Club Alpin du Canada Winter | hiver 2017 Kyrgyzstan climbing – unique and welcoming Grimper au Kirghizistan — accueillant et unique pages 10 - 13 # 40009034 MAIL PUBLICATIONS To bring together, and give voice to, Canada’s mountaineering community. | Tous ensemble, bien représenter et faire apprécier la communauté canadienne des amateurs de montagne. The Alpine Club of Canada What’s Inside... Adventures Athletics 5 Alpine Start: Skill set safety 18 Profile: Alannah Yip Publications Mail Agreement No. 40009034 6 Compétences et sécurité Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 10 Kyrgyzstan climbing – unique and Members The Alpine Club of Canada welcoming 24 Why I Volunteer Box 8040, Canmore, AB 12 29 Canada T1W 2T8 Grimper au Kirghizistan — Dick Culbert accueillant et unique 29 Waldemar “Fips” Broda Phone: (403) 678‑3200 20 Fax: (403) 678‑3224 Three passes and nine days reveal [email protected] historic route Publications www.alpineclubofcanada.ca 22 Canine hiker a welcome companion 28 The Bookpack Board of Directors Neil Bosch President Huts Community Isabelle Daigneault Secretary 8 4 Brette Harrington Keith Sanford Treasurer Abbot Pass Hut a must‑do destination Short Rope Lael Parrott VP Access/Environment 26 The Petzl Foundation and the ACC Frank Spears VP Activities Science 29 Classified ads and notices Jim Gudjonson VP Facilities 14 30 Zac Robinson VP Mountain Culture ACC member drills Arctic ice cores Open Air Toby Harper-Merrett VP Sections David Foster VP Services/Athletics David Toole Honorary President What’s Outside... Lawrence White Executive Director Cover photo / photo de couverture: Publication ACC Rocky Mountain Section members Go Lynn Martel Gazette Editor Zac Bolan Layout & Production celebrate climbing Kyrgyzstan’s Mount Jean-Philippe Gravel Translator Baichichikey, which means crocus. | Les Submissions membres de la section Rocheuses du Submissions to the Gazette are welcome! For CAC fêtent leur ascenscion du mont submission guidelines email your idea to the Gazette Editor at [email protected] Baichichikey (signifiant « crocus ») au further Advertising Kirghiziztan. Photo: Jackie Clark Left / À gauche: Marc-Andre Leclerc, Brette Harrington Advertising rate sheet available on the website Climbers approach the or by request. Please direct advertising inquiries summit of Boks Peak (4293 metres) with and MEC Ambassador Joshua Lavigne spent to Zac Bolan, Publications Manager by e‑mail: Corona Peak and Free Korea Mountain 30 days last summer exploring Baffin Island’s [email protected] in the background. | Les grimpeurs Great Sail Peak. After crossing splintering pack facebook.com/alpineclubofcanada s’approchent du sommet du pic Boks ice and freeing seven pitches they found another (4,293 mètres), avec le pic Corona et la team of climbers camped on a wide ledge at the twitter.com/alpineclubcan montagne Free Korea à l’arrière‑plan. start of their intended route. New plan: two new Photo: Steve Fedyna lines up the west and northwest spires stretching Article: pages 10 – 13 1100m above the fjords. Challenges: a 5-day storm, steep verglass, technical aid, wetness Corporate Partners and freeing pitches up to 5.13a. The Alpine Club of Canada thanks the following for their support, and encourages you to consider them By supporting innovative outdoor exploits and the advertisers in this Gazette the next time you purchase goods or services of the type they offer. across Canada and around the world, MEC Corporate Sponsors Corporate Members Expedition Support helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities. Banff Centre for Arts Gripped and Creativity Jardine Lloyd Thompson BanffHotels.org Live Out There Want to know more? Canadian Avalanche Assoc. Ortovox Canada mec.ca/expeditions CPAWS Osprey Packs Exped Patagonia Marc-Andre Leclerc Marc-Andre Explore Magazine Rocky Mountain Books Forty Below Yamnuska Golden Alpine Holidays Zaui Software Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette HIVER 2017 3 Alpine Club of Canada Gazette - Spring Issue - inside front cover - full colour PROOF DOCKET # 17_SPCI_03 IMAGE DSC03504.jpg, DSC09571.JPG PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDF PUBLICATION Alpine Club Canada Gazette DESIGNER JP [email protected] SIZE 8.38” X10.88” CLIENT Brad Clute PRODUCTION Russ, [email protected] BLEED .125 FA PROOF DATE February 3, 2017 3:22 PM FILE NAME 17_SPCI_0003_ACC Print Ad_8.38x10.88_FA_R1.indd SAFE NA MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY, VANCOUVER, BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300 COLOURS CMYK Facebooking and the YouTubing, climbers climb because they enjoy climbing, because Alpine Start: they see climbing as a fulfilling part of their lives. Sharing builds community. Skill set safety No one who wants to climb needs to buy tickets, purchase memberships, take BY JEFF BULLOCK lessons or join a club. All that’s needed to he mountains are where people climb to a summit of an easy mountain is like you and I go; we go to find decent footwear, a warm layer and access peace, adventure, fitness and our to a mountain. You don’t even need a buddies. The mountains are beautiful, trailhead if you’re willing to bushwhack. T mysterious and call to us like a need Interest, motivation, inspiration and which can be indescribable to explain. determination will get you where you Some of us feel the want to sooth our want to go. Technical equipment, instruc‑ egos and curb our ADHD to the point tion and experience can take you farther. where we may be risking our safety as In my 20‑plus years of writing about we push the boundaries of our personal mountain activities and interviewing scopes of knowledge. climbers, ranging from obscure nobodies As climbers and skiers, we accept a who have accomplished impressive and level of risk which may be beyond the admirable exploits, to professional adven‑ average person’s in everyday society, and turers who excel at self‑marketing while with that acceptance comes wild, life‑ pulling off wildly imaginative and bold changing experiences. The summer of projects, I’ve learned there are as many 2017 displayed evidence of the growth reasons for people to climb as there are of the climbing community and that personalities of the climbers themselves. acceptance of risk. I believe with the new Exploring undeveloped wilderness, chal‑ addition of a comprehensive alpine climbs Happiness is hot chocolate in the tent on a crisp backcountry evening. PHOTO: JOHN MCISAAC lenging one’s own physical and mental guidebook peoples’ curiosity is piquing limits, pushing one’s athletic abilities, as they repeat older‑school routes and Short Rope savouring the fascinating discoveries that explore some of the potential new routes come from stepping and pulling and jam‑ on bigger walls. The community thrives BY LYNN MARTEL ming hands and feet up naturally formed on strength training at modern gyms walls of good‑quality rock, standing on and on sport routes, through options ut life builds good moun‑ like‑minded people. a summit and breathing in a panorama for professional courses in a theoretical Vince Bain Ya trusts all his weight to a well-built anchor while descending Mount Fryatt. | Vince Bain Ya tain people.” Passion. Camaraderie. Community. of countless peaks, turning a corner on a environment, or just scooping knowledge confie son poids à un ancrage bien fait en descendant le mont Fryatt. PHOTO: JEFF BULLOCK “The mountains are Climbing and mountaineering are ridge in anticipation of what moves come from friends along the way. This is all where people like you and I go; we go “H activities that attract people from a myr‑ next – climbing offers all that and more. very positive and reassures our confidence little spent after a 19‑hour guiding day, I equalized anchor lying on the ground to find peace, adventure, fitness and iad of backgrounds who love to explore Curiosity. Problem solving. leading out onto the bigger routes. slept well! at Mount Alberta this summer). Same our buddies.” wilderness, embrace athletic challenges Embracing the unknown. As I was climbing the West Ridge But, back to the real world. I learned goes with V‑threads. Use knots in the “My goal is to be a climbing‑for‑lifer.” and discover their deeper selves. Climbers possess and embrace those route of Mount Fryatt in Jasper National of two accidents this summer regarding rope when rappelling and/or belaying on You’ll find these quotes, and many Many are also attracted to the sim‑ qualities in others. The climbing com‑ Park in mid‑August, with the heat and anchor failures in the Bow Valley on longer sport routes, and a personal prussik more, on the pages of this Gazette plicity of climbing. Some might call it munity is especially fortunate to include the smoke and the overall dry conditions neighbouring peaks. One of them was on that unknown or really steep rappel expressing how Alpine Club of Canada purity, while others lament its perceived route builders who give back by volun‑ up high, I felt a little anxious on the fatal. My anxiety on Fryatt was not wasted; this winter. Add the new system before members feel about the adventures loss. I don’t, because I believe it’s still there, teering their time, talents and skills to way up. I was keen to locate old anchors my feelings were that these high peaks are subtracting the old, double check yours they share in the mountains with even amidst the Instagramming and the create sport climbs for others to enjoy. which I could use for the descent. There truly thawing out. In my time climbing and your buddies’ systems and question And some climbers willingly, was little evidence of much traffic, and I have seen all sorts of “stuff ” that people things that don’t look or feel correct. Take enthusiastically join The Alpine Club besides a few pieces of cord down low got away with; manky pins, wildly slung the time early season summer and winter Northern Norway: of Canada for the simple joy of sharing there was nothing until the two routes pinches and chalk stones, teetering boulder to review your skills and more compli‑ their strengths, shortcomings and desires merged near the summit.
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