Vol. 32, No. 3 The Alpine Club of Canada | Le Club Alpin du Canada Winter | hiver 2017
Kyrgyzstan climbing – unique and welcoming Grimper au Kirghizistan — accueillant et unique pages 10 - 13 # 40009034 mail
publications
To bring together, and give voice to, Canada’s mountaineering community. | Tous ensemble, bien représenter et faire apprécier la communauté canadienne des amateurs de montagne. The Alpine Club of Canada What’s Inside... Adventures Athletics 5 Alpine Start: Skill set safety 18 Profile: Alannah Yip Publications Mail Agreement No. 40009034 6 Compétences et sécurité Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 10 Kyrgyzstan climbing – unique and Members The Alpine Club of Canada welcoming 24 Why I Volunteer Box 8040, Canmore, AB 12 29 Canada T1W 2T8 Grimper au Kirghizistan — Dick Culbert accueillant et unique 29 Waldemar “Fips” Broda Phone: (403) 678‑3200 20 Fax: (403) 678‑3224 Three passes and nine days reveal [email protected] historic route Publications www.alpineclubofcanada.ca 22 Canine hiker a welcome companion 28 The Bookpack Board of Directors
Neil Bosch President Huts Community Isabelle Daigneault Secretary
8 4 Brette Harrington Brette Keith Sanford Treasurer Abbot Pass Hut a must-do destination Short Rope Lael Parrott VP Access/Environment 26 The Petzl Foundation and theACC Frank Spears VP Activities Science 29 Classified ads and notices Jim Gudjonson VP Facilities 14 30 Zac Robinson VP Mountain Culture ACC member drills Arctic ice cores Open Air Toby Harper-Merrett VP Sections David Foster VP Services/Athletics David Toole Honorary President What’s Outside... Lawrence White Executive Director Cover photo / photo de couverture: Publication ACC Rocky Mountain Section members Go Lynn Martel Gazette Editor Zac Bolan Layout & Production celebrate climbing Kyrgyzstan’s Mount Jean-Philippe Gravel Translator Baichichikey, which means crocus. | Les Submissions membres de la section Rocheuses du Submissions to the Gazette are welcome! For CAC fêtent leur ascenscion du mont submission guidelines email your idea to the Gazette Editor at [email protected] Baichichikey (signifiant « crocus ») au further Advertising Kirghiziztan. Photo: Jackie Clark Left / À gauche: Marc-Andre Leclerc, Brette Harrington Advertising rate sheet available on the website Climbers approach the or by request. Please direct advertising inquiries summit of Boks Peak (4293 metres) with and MEC Ambassador Joshua Lavigne spent to Zac Bolan, Publications Manager by e‑mail: Corona Peak and Free Korea Mountain 30 days last summer exploring Baffin Island’s [email protected] in the background. | Les grimpeurs Great Sail Peak. After crossing splintering pack facebook.com/alpineclubofcanada s’approchent du sommet du pic Boks ice and freeing seven pitches they found another (4,293 mètres), avec le pic Corona et la team of climbers camped on a wide ledge at the twitter.com/alpineclubcan montagne Free Korea à l’arrière-plan. start of their intended route. New plan: two new Photo: Steve Fedyna lines up the west and northwest spires stretching Article: pages 10 – 13 1100m above the fjords. Challenges: a 5-day storm, steep verglass, technical aid, wetness Corporate Partners and freeing pitches up to 5.13a. The Alpine Club of Canada thanks the following for their support, and encourages you to consider them By supporting innovative outdoor exploits and the advertisers in this Gazette the next time you purchase goods or services of the type they offer. across Canada and around the world, MEC Corporate Sponsors Corporate Members Expedition Support helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities. Banff Centre for Arts Gripped and Creativity Jardine Lloyd Thompson Want to know more? BanffHotels.org Live Out There Canadian Avalanche Assoc. Ortovox Canada mec.ca/expeditions CPAWS Osprey Packs
Exped Patagonia
Marc-Andre Leclerc Explore Magazine Rocky Mountain Books Forty Below Yamnuska Golden Alpine Holidays Zaui Software
Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 3
Alpine Club of Canada Gazette - Spring Issue - inside front cover - full colour
PROOF DOCKET # 17_SPCI_03 IMAGE DSC03504.jpg, DSC09571.JPG PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDF PUBLICATION Alpine Club Canada Gazette DESIGNER JP [email protected] SIZE 8.38” X10.88”
CLIENT Brad Clute PRODUCTION Russ, [email protected] BLEED .125
FA PROOF DATE February 3, 2017 3:22 PM FILE NAME 17_SPCI_0003_ACC Print Ad_8.38x10.88_FA_R1.indd SAFE NA
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY, VANCOUVER, BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300 COLOURS CMYK Facebooking and the YouTubing, climbers climb because they enjoy climbing, because Alpine Start: they see climbing as a fulfilling part of their lives. Sharing builds community. Skill set safety No one who wants to climb needs to buy tickets, purchase memberships, take by Jeff Bullock lessons or join a club. All that’s needed to he mountains are where people climb to a summit of an easy mountain is like you and I go; we go to find decent footwear, a warm layer and access peace, adventure, fitness and our to a mountain. You don’t even need a buddies. The mountains are beautiful, trailhead if you’re willing to bushwhack. T mysterious and call to us like a need Interest, motivation, inspiration and which can be indescribable to explain. determination will get you where you Some of us feel the want to sooth our want to go. Technical equipment, instruc‑ egos and curb our ADHD to the point tion and experience can take you farther. where we may be risking our safety as In my 20-plus years of writing about we push the boundaries of our personal mountain activities and interviewing scopes of knowledge. climbers, ranging from obscure nobodies As climbers and skiers, we accept a who have accomplished impressive and level of risk which may be beyond the admirable exploits, to professional adven‑ average person’s in everyday society, and turers who excel at self-marketing while with that acceptance comes wild, life- pulling off wildly imaginative and bold changing experiences. The summer of projects, I’ve learned there are as many 2017 displayed evidence of the growth reasons for people to climb as there are of the climbing community and that personalities of the climbers themselves. acceptance of risk. I believe with the new Exploring undeveloped wilderness, chal‑ addition of a comprehensive alpine climbs Happiness is hot chocolate in the tent on a crisp backcountry evening. Photo: John McIsaac lenging one’s own physical and mental guidebook peoples’ curiosity is piquing limits, pushing one’s athletic abilities, as they repeat older-school routes and Short Rope savouring the fascinating discoveries that explore some of the potential new routes come from stepping and pulling and jam‑ on bigger walls. The community thrives by Lynn Martel ming hands and feet up naturally formed on strength training at modern gyms walls of good-quality rock, standing on and on sport routes, through options ut life builds good moun‑ like-minded people. a summit and breathing in a panorama for professional courses in a theoretical Vince Bain Ya trusts all his weight to a well-built anchor while descending Mount Fryatt. | Vince Bain Ya tain people.” Passion. Camaraderie. Community. of countless peaks, turning a corner on a environment, or just scooping knowledge confie son poids à un ancrage bien fait en descendant le mont Fryatt. Photo: Jeff Bullock “The mountains are Climbing and mountaineering are ridge in anticipation of what moves come from friends along the way. This is all where people like you and I go; we go “H activities that attract people from a myr‑ next – climbing offers all that and more. very positive and reassures our confidence little spent after a 19-hour guiding day, I equalized anchor lying on the ground to find peace, adventure, fitness and iad of backgrounds who love to explore Curiosity. Problem solving. leading out onto the bigger routes. slept well! at Mount Alberta this summer). Same our buddies.” wilderness, embrace athletic challenges Embracing the unknown. As I was climbing the West Ridge But, back to the real world. I learned goes with V-threads. Use knots in the “My goal is to be a climbing-for-lifer.” and discover their deeper selves. Climbers possess and embrace those route of Mount Fryatt in Jasper National of two accidents this summer regarding rope when rappelling and/or belaying on You’ll find these quotes, and many Many are also attracted to the sim‑ qualities in others. The climbing com‑ Park in mid-August, with the heat and anchor failures in the Bow Valley on longer sport routes, and a personal prussik more, on the pages of this Gazette plicity of climbing. Some might call it munity is especially fortunate to include the smoke and the overall dry conditions neighbouring peaks. One of them was on that unknown or really steep rappel expressing how Alpine Club of Canada purity, while others lament its perceived route builders who give back by volun‑ up high, I felt a little anxious on the fatal. My anxiety on Fryatt was not wasted; this winter. Add the new system before members feel about the adventures loss. I don’t, because I believe it’s still there, teering their time, talents and skills to way up. I was keen to locate old anchors my feelings were that these high peaks are subtracting the old, double check yours they share in the mountains with even amidst the Instagramming and the create sport climbs for others to enjoy. which I could use for the descent. There truly thawing out. In my time climbing and your buddies’ systems and question And some climbers willingly, was little evidence of much traffic, and I have seen all sorts of “stuff ” that people things that don’t look or feel correct. Take enthusiastically join The Alpine Club besides a few pieces of cord down low got away with; manky pins, wildly slung the time early season summer and winter Northern Norway: of Canada for the simple joy of sharing there was nothing until the two routes pinches and chalk stones, teetering boulder to review your skills and more compli‑ their strengths, shortcomings and desires merged near the summit. I had a hammer anchors, faded and tattered webbing and cated techniques in a safe environment. Climb in the midnight sun! with others who love the mountains the and six pins with about 20 metres of extra cord, shallow V-threads, lean self-drive We continue to learn and grow as Join the ACC on our trip to Tysfjord & the Lotofen ways we do. Better still, some volunteer cord, but it felt like it may not be enough bolts and etcetera, etcetera. an enthusiastic group of people, and the to serve on committees, boards, lead trips, to make things safe. We summitted, and I do my fair share of ranting while learning curve is long and what we can Islands in July 2018. Expect fantastic granite, organize social events, publish news‑ began our descent. I utilized the existing instructing, and my point here is simple. learn from others is so valuable. When it’s friendly Northern Norwegian hospitality, and letters, maintain huts and so much more, Southwest Face descent for as long as I Be safe out there. Spend the extra few all said and done, late for dinner is better unforgettable views over ocean fjords. all because we believe in our community. could before deking back onto the West dollars on webbing, cord and pins, have than gone forever or mentally/physically As our Club’s newest member of the Ridge. Being conservative, I tried to max a knife handy and clean out the frayed injured. Contact info: Board of Directors said in this issue, “Our out our rappel length with one 60-metre and bleached-out material. Back up that Have a great climbing and skiing alpineclubofcanada.ca/international club is as good as we make it. And every‑ rope. I checked pins, added new pins old pin anchor with a cam or two and season this winter and CU in the hills. [email protected] ACMG Photo: Ãse Jakobsen one has a skill or talent that will help us and new cord and as it worked out had test it out and equalize your anchors to Mountain Guide Jeff Bullock be better.” just enough to make it. Relieved and a avoid shock loading (I did find a two-pin runs www.alpineairadventures.com
4 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 5 Compétences et sécurité
par Jeff Bullock
a montagne est l’endroit où nous allons retrouver la paix, l’aventure, la santé et nos amis. L’appel de la montagne,L mystérieuse et belle, résonne en nous d’une manière indescriptible. Mais le besoin d’apaiser leur ego ou leur TDAH en pousse quelques-uns à com‑ promettre leur sécurité pour mettre leurs limites et leurs connaissances à l’épreuve. Nous assumons, comme grimpeurs et comme skieurs, des risques plus élevés que la moyenne des gens et de la société. Cette acceptation nous vaut parfois des aventures grisantes qui nous changent ADVENTURE PROOF profondément. L’été 2017 a vu croître la communauté des grimpeurs et cette acceptation du risque. Je crois qu’avec NEW TRANSPORTER l’ajout d’un manuel exhaustif d’escalades alpines, la curiosité des gens se pique de Built with ruggedly dependable, weather resistant fabrics, the reprendre des itinéraires de l’ancienne Transporter duffels are comfortable to carry. From loading a école et d’explorer de nouvelles routes Jeff Bullock demonstrates techniques while teaching a glacier travel/crevasse rescue course on the few racks of cams, or packing for the biggest expedition, the potentielles sur de plus gros murs. Les Athabasca Glacier. | Jeff Bullock, guide de montagne ACMG, enseigne des techniques de sauvetage en programmes de musculation des gymn‑ crevasse au glacier Athabasca. Photo: Lynn Martel Transporter will take you there, and bring your gear back safe. ases modernes, les parcours sportifs, les cours professionnels en environnement Mais revenons à la réalité. J’ai aussi revérifiez le vôtre et celui de vos amis en contrôlé, sans compter le partage de eu connaissance de deux accidents cet été questionnant tout ce qui ne vous paraît connaissances entre amis stimulent cette impliquant des ancrages fautifs à des som‑ pas correct. Prenez le temps en début de communauté. Tout cela est très positif et mets de la vallée de Bow, dont un mortel. saison, été comme hiver, d’examiner vos donne une confiance qui nous mène vers Mon angoisse à Fryatt ne me trompait compétences et réviser les techniques plus les itinéraires plus importants. pas de croire que ces pics élevés sont compliquées dans un cadre sécuritaire. Tandis que, à la mi-août, j’escaladais la véritablement en train de dégeler. Au cours Notre groupe enthousiaste continue route de la crête ouest du mont Fryatt du d’apprendre et de croître, mais notre par‑ de mon escalade, j’ai vu des gens s’en tirer ZAHAB RAY PHOTO: parc national de Jasper dans la chaleur et en laissant passer toutes sortes de choses cours d’apprentissage est long et ce que www.exped.com la fumée et les conditions généralement : broches écœurantes, pinces et pierres de nous apprenons des autres n’a pas de prix. sèches en cette hauteur, je m’inquiétai craies follement tirées, ancrages instables, Rappelons-nous qu’au bout du compte, il quelque peu en montée. Je tenais à repérer sangles et cordes fatiguées qui s’effilochent, vaut mieux rentrer en retard pour le dîner d’anciens ancrages à utiliser dans ma abalakovs peu profonds, etc., etc. que rentrer grièvement (physiquement ou descente, mais les signes de trafic étaient J’ai ma part de colères quand j’in‑ mentalement) blessé, ou ne pas rentrer du rares : excepté quelques bouts de corde en tout. struis, mais mon propos est clair : restez bas il n’y avait rien eu jusqu’à ce que les Bonne saison d’escalade et de ski prudents là-bas. Allongez les quelques deux itinéraires fusionnent près du som‑ cet hiver et au plaisir de se revoir dans dollars de plus qu’il faut en cordelettes, met. J’avais un marteau et six broches et les montagnes. en sangles et en broches, conservez une vingtaine de mètres de corde supplé‑ Guide de montagne membre de l’ACMG, un couteau pour nettoyer le matériel mentaire qui ne semblaient pas suffire à Jeff Bullock opère DOWNMAT XP 9 effiloché et blanchi. Soutenez ce vieil ma sécurité. Nous avons atteint le som‑ www.alpineairadventures.com THE REVOLUTIONARY MAT ancrage d’un coinceur à came ou deux met et commencé la descente. J’utilisai FOR EXTREME TEMPERATURES. la descente existante de la face sud-ouest et testez-le. Égalisez vos ancrages pour PSST! aussi longtemps que je pus avant de éviter la force de choc (j’ai découvert sur Exceedingly comfortable, extremely warm and packable, this regagner la crête ouest. Étant prudent, je le sol un ancrage égalisé à deux broches award winning mat includes the Schnozzel Pumpbag fast inflation Have you experienced an tâchai de maximiser notre longueur de au mont Alberta cet été). Même chose system, which will allow you to quickly set up your winter camp. unforgettable ACC adventure? Want rappel d’une corde de 60 mètres, vérifiai pour les abalakovs. Utilisez des nœuds to see it published in the Gazette? les broches et en ajoutai de nouvelles dans la corde pendant le rappel ou l’as‑ Contact the Gazette editor at COMPACT avec des cordons, ce qui s’avéra tout juste surage dans les itinéraires plus longs, et [email protected] to INSULATION suffisant pour nous tirer d’affaire. Épuisé un prussik personnel pendant ce rappel have your article, story or event COMFORT et soulagé après 19 heures de guidage, je inconnu ou très raide cet hiver. Ajoutez le published in the Gazette. ne dormis pas mal! nouveau système avant de retirer l’ancien,
6 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 helped. We were first to arrive at the hut, and marvelled at the amazing views. On one side was the scree slope we just came up with deep blue Lake Oesa way down below, and the other side has Victoria Glacier and views down into the valley above Lake Louise. We made lunch, took pictures and relaxed. A few other parties arrived including a Swiss group who had come up through the Death Trap, summited Mount Victoria and were returning to Lake Louise the same way. There is not a lot of exploring beyond the hut without moun‑ taineering equipment, so we enjoyed talking to the others there and hearing their stories – an additional bonus of spending the night at the hut. Reading the hut log the stories varied from funny to silly to outright inspirational! With just 14 people that night, there was comfortable sleeping space for all. Only two people planned to climb Victoria the next morning, while every‑ one else would head down. After dinner Abbott Pass Hut and watching the sunset, Nelson and I played crib with Sara and Sarah from Washington State. They were great to get Abbot Pass Hut a must-do destination to know, so after watching the sunrise, we Story and photos by Richard Jansen ate breakfast and left with them with the Nelson Dechant scrambles up the steep scree goal of catching the 11:30 a.m. bus back to uilt in 1922 at an altitude of 2,926 Monday Sept. 4, which was perfect as slope to the ACC’s Abbot Pass Hut. the parking lot. I went first, in charge of metres, it’s the second-highest we’d only need to take off one work day finding the best route down, followed by permanent structure in Canada. after the long weekend. We worried the Sara and Sarah, with Nelson last to make BetterB still, it boasts the best outhouse trip may not happen due to wildfires all sure everyone was fine. We made sure not views in the country, if not the world! over western Canada, but luck delivered to dislodge too many rocks while scree Lake Oesa shines like a brilliant blue gem far below Abbot Pass. Ever since I joined The Alpine Club the clearest day in months. Leaving skiing down the steep slope, all really of Canada a long time ago, the Abbot Calgary at 5:30 a.m. we pulled into the enjoying our descent. Before we knew snag the last pieces of carrot cake at Le provided proof that triathlon and hiking Pass Hut hike/scramble has been on top Lake O’Hara parking lot at 8 a.m. to it, we were back at Lake Oesa and from Relais before hopping on. With the skies can coexist. Thanks Nelson for making of my list. catch the Parks Canada bus. We were there a casual hike. socked in with smoke again on our drive it happen! When I moved to Calgary in 2009 glad not to hike the 11 kilometres to the Now it was our turn to pass on our back to Calgary, we considered ourselves Richard Jansen is an ACC Calgary - after a long trip that included moun‑ lake, as there is so much beauty up there newly-earned knowledge on the best lucky to have had the perfect two days Section member who looks forward to more taineering on New Zealand’s Mount to explore. route to people on their way up. We for our trip. For me, this trip really hiking and scrambling after next year’s Aspiring, climbing Kota Kinabalu in Hiking up the beautiful trail to Lake arrived at the bus stop just in time to rekindled my love for the mountains and triathlon season ends. Malaysia, trekking the Annapurna Circuit Oesa we took it easy, enjoying the scenery and Sanctuary, plus a few weeks in the and making enough noise to alert the few Austrian Alps - I figured it would happen bears with cubs in the area. The trail gets soon. Still, it took until this year to find a bit steeper past the lake and when we the right trip partner. More importantly, SUMMER looked up the steep scree slope we had triathlon took over my life. When triath‑ to scramble up, we put on helmets. We lon season was over, so, pretty much, was encountered a few people coming down hiking season. from the hut and they gave us some guide‑ is coming! Fortunately, my four half-Ironman lines as to the best route up the scree slope. Our annual lottery for bookings races were done early, so my buddy Following blue and yellow markers and at the Elizabeth Parker Hut at Nelson Dechant (who was training for then a faint trail, we stuck to the left side the Squamish 50) got me out on a few of the slope, but not too far left to poten‑ Lake O’Hara opens November 13 hikes/trail runs west of our hometown, tially get caught by cliff rockfall. and closes December 15. Calgary. Pretty quickly he was as excited Taking it slow we both agreed it was about the hut as me. easier than we expected based on some www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/EPlottery We booked the first available night, online reviews. Perfect weather surely
8 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 9 After summitting, you rappelled the fixed Kyrgyzstan climbing – unique and welcoming ropes and then walked back down the glacier. We never roped up on glaciers 7,000-metre peaks – Lenin (7,134 metres), because they were all bare ice, and with Pobeda (7,439 metres) and Khan Tengri few crevasses since most of them were (7,010). Mountains cover 95 per cent of not very steep. Kyrgyzstan’s territory and 40 per cent of Our first climbing day the entire team those are higher than 3,000 metres. The succeeded on Mount Boks, a 4,293- metre Kyrgyzstanis don’t bother naming peaks peak with easy glacier access, some steep lower than 4,000 metres, and there are scrambling and spectacular views across still plenty of first ascents to be had. the Tien Shan range. We chose Ala Archa National Park The next day we tried 4,516-metre due to its easy access and plentiful sum‑ Mount Baichichikey, graded PD+. It mits in the easy to moderate (French grade PD to AD) range. We went in July was mostly a glacier walk with some fun as the weather tends to be more stable. technical climbing at the end. Besides, it was cheap. Our one-week Corona Peak, at 4,860 metres, was the adventure, including transportation, most technically challenging, with several porters, guides, accommodation, meals, summits forming a crown around the permits, park fees and group equipment summit glacier – thus the name. We were (e.g. ropes and anchors for fixed lines) moving an hour before dawn. Our guide cost $700! originally recommended moving up to a Leonid has been managing the Ak Sai basecamp for 40 years - as you might tell by his technique! | Leonid We started our climbing week by high camp the day before, but we chose a s'occupe du camp de base Ak Sai depuis 40 ans - comme sa technique le montre! Photo: Steve Fedyna jumping in a van at our lovely hotel moderately long day (12 hours) and a sin‑ in Bishkek. A 90-minute drive and a gle push from basecamp instead. When metres). Ratsik involved a pitch of 5.7 Canadians don’t require visas. Flights leave four-hour hike brought us to the Ak Sai we saw the condition of the “hut” at high climbing, but there were pitons placed from Moscow, Dubai, Istanbul or Seoul. basecamp in Ala Archa National Park. camp, we all agreed we’d made the right exactly where we needed them. Part of Sanitary conditions are modern, costs are Almost all the climbers at the Ak decision! After a glacier walk to high the treat of that day was that the camp low and the beer is good. More import‑ Sai camp were from Russia. The guides camp, the rest of the route was mostly commander, who has managed this antly, this place has not been wrecked by were based in Kyrgyzstan, but were all steep ice, including a 200-metre ascent basecamp every summer for 40 years, rampant tourism. We found the locals originally from Russia as well. One of on fixed lines on 60-degree ice to the was ahead of us on the same route with authentically welcoming and thrilled to our guides spoke minimal English, but summit ridge. Fun scrambling on solid his wife and daughter. His techniques have tourists. It helped that we happened choose instead to rely on one of our rock at up to 5.4 took us to the summit. suggested that he felt some of the rope to have a super fun group of very fit and group members who spoke Russian to We lucked out with the weather and were skills from 40 years ago were superior technically competent Canadians, one of translate everything into English. One back in basecamp before the afternoon to modern methods – like when he whom happened to be fluent in Russian! of the benefits of having guides was that thunderstorms sprinkled our tents. The body rappelled all the technical pitches! TheACC Rocky Mountain Section the guidebook and photocopies of routes views from the summit were amazing, Needless to say, superfluous luxuries such Kyrgyzstan climbing team included Jackie at the basecamp were also all in Russian. revealing we’d barely scratched the surface as climbing helmets were never worn by Clark, Steve Fedyna, Gabrielle Savard, The entire experience was, in fact, very of this area. There were impressive ice the old timers, although they strongly Clarence Kort (RMS); Alex Joseph, David Russian and very different from anything ascents, huge granite walls and majestic believed in the powerful, positive influ‑ Wong (Calgary Section); Patrick Lam, that any of us had encountered before. glaciers in every direction. ence of smoking a couple of cigarettes on Mike Gitlin (Toronto Section). Patrick Lam makes a move near the summit of Ratsek Peak (4000 metres). | Patrick Lam entame une For example, breakfast depended on On our last climbing day, the crew the summit. ACC Rocky Mountain Section Chair manœuvre près du sommet du pic Ratsek (4000 mètres). Photo: Steve Fedyna when you were leaving camp, but the big split up with half heading up Mount For anybody looking for something Steve Fedyna lives in Canmore, Alberta with meal of the day was always lunch, which Uchitel (4,540 metres) and the rest doing a little exotic at moderate elevations, his wife, Jackie Clark, with whom he shares a by Steve Fedyna Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. We repeated this was served at 1400 hours if you had a rest a technical ascent of Ratsik Peak (4,000 you can’t go wrong with Kyrgyzstan. fondness for unique climbing holidays. “Camp commander! I wish to inform strange ritual, with our guides reporting day and whenever you returned from your Kilimanjaro you that the Canadian Climbing Team in Russian and the camp staff congratu‑ ascent if you’d been climbing. This made lating us, after every ascent. I wasn’t too sense, allowing us to carry a light lunch Africa’s Highest Mountain has successfully summited Peak Corona 5895 m / 19340 ft. DIK DIK II at an elevation of 4,860 metres with thrilled to hear about the “no casualties” while climbing, then fill up on a two- report – shouldn’t that be the normal way no casualties.” course meal when we got home. Dinner Hotel & Tours things run? “To the Canadian Climbing Team, the was always at 1900 hours, and was either Individual safaris in Tanzania We appreciated not only a great Kilimanjaro climb & Safari Specialist camp says HURRAH!” soup and salad or a heavier single course. climbing week, but also a rather Both the gear and the climbing were Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara “To the camp, the Canadian Climbing unique (and at times strange!) cultural very Russian in style – you basically Holidays in Zanzibar Team says WELCOME!” experience. The trip was organized by soloed until you encountered technical [email protected] up, a little surreal. We are all The Alpine Club of Canada’s Rocky difficulties, and then you sat while guides www.dikdik.ch standing at attention, shoulder Mountain Section, but included mem‑ either put up fixed ropes or checked the It is the Swiss family’s Vision & to shoulder at the entrance to a bers from the Calgary and Toronto condition of permanent ropes. Then you Commitment to provide top quality accommodation, food and service in a climbingY basecamp at 3,550 metres in the sections. Most foreign climbers in ascended the fixed ropes while sliding a friendly atmosphere. Ak Sai Canyon, 60 kilometres south of Kyrgyzstan focus on one of three jumar to catch your fall if you slipped.
10 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 11 en pente de 60 degrés vers la crête du Grimper au Kirghizistan — accueillant et unique sommet. Du scrambling sur roche jusqu’à par Steve Fedyna 5.4 degrés de difficulté nous emmena au sommet. En poussant notre chance, « — Commandant, nous désirons vous nous sommes retournés au camp de base informer que l’Équipe d’escalade cana- avant de voir nos tentes aspergées par les dienne s’est rendue au sommet du pic Corona orages d’après-midi. Saisissante, la vue du II à une altitude de 4,860 mètres sans faire sommet prouva que nous avions à peine de victimes. » effleuré la surface de cette région, avec ses « — Du camp à l’Équipe canadienne : montées de glace, ses immenses murs de HOURRA! » granit et ses majestueux glaciers partout « — De l’Équipe canadienne au camp : où nos yeux se posaient. BIENVENUE! » Notre groupe s’est séparé le dernier n peu surréel en effet. Nous jour, une moitié vers le mont Uchitel nous tenions au garde-à-vous (4,540 mètres) et l’autre vers l’ascension côte à côte à l’entrée d’un camp technique du pic Ratsek (4,000 mètres), de base situé à 3,550 mètres dans le can‑ qui incluait une longueur de grimpe de U 5.7, mais comportait des pitons partout où yon Ak Sai, à 60 kilomètres au sud de Bichkek, Kirghizistan, et l’étrange rituel nécessaire. La présence du commandeur se répétait après chaque montée, avec nos du camp (avec ses 40 ans de service), guides faisant leur rapport en russe et le Team Canada celebrates at basecamp. From left, Clarence Kort, Gabrielle Savard, Patrick Lam, Alex accompagné de son épouse et de sa fille personnel du camp qui nous félicitait. Y Joseph, Steve Fedyna, Mike Gitlin, Jackie Clark and David Wong. | Célébrations d'Équipe Canada au camp à la tête de notre itinéraire fut un des de base. De la gauche : Clarence Kort, Gabrielle Savard, Patrick Lam, Alex Joseph, Steve Fedyna, Mike plaisirs de cette journée. Sa technique entendre parler d’« absence de victimes » Gitlin, Jackie Clark et David Wong. Photo: Vladimir Petsov ne m’emballait pas trop : n’est-ce pas ainsi indiquait sa préférence pour les méth‑ odes d’il y a quarante ans, qu’il devait qu’en temps normal les choses doivent se notre charmant hôtel de Bichkek. Une les guides mettaient des cordes en place trouver supérieures à le voir descendre en passer? conduite de 90 minutes et une randonnée ou inspectaient les cordes permanentes. rappel toutes les longueurs techniques... Nous n’avons pas seulement profité de quatre heures nous emmèneraient au Vous remontiez ensuite par les cordes d’une formidable semaine de grimpe, camp de base d’Ak Sai au parc national en glissant un jumar pour rattraper votre Inutile de dire que ces vieux routiers mais aussi d’une expérience culturelle Ala Archa. chute si vous glissiez. Après l’arrivée au ne s’embarrassaient pas de casques ou unique (et parfois étrange). La section Presque tous les grimpeurs du camp sommet, vous descendiez les cordes en d’autres extravagants accessoires, mais Rocheuses du Club alpin du Canada avait étaient de nationalité russe. Bien qu’in‑ rappel et reveniez sur vos pas dans le qu’ils croyaient fortement aux vertus des organisé le voyage, où des membres des stallés au Kirghizistan, les guides étaient glacier, où nous n’utilisions jamais les quelques cigarettes qu’ils fumaient une sections Toronto et Calgary se trouvaient aussi d’origine russe. L’un de nos guides, cordes, car la glace était découverte par‑ fois au sommet. aussi. Au Kirghizistan, le grimpeur étran‑ qui parlait l’anglais minimalement, choisit tout et comportait peu de crevasses, peu Quiconque cherche l’exotisme à des ger se concentre habituellement sur l’un de se fier à un de nos membres qui parlait escarpées pour la plupart. hauteurs modérées ne peut se tromper des trois pics de 7,000 mètres : Lénine russe pour le traduire vers l’anglais. Les Toute notre équipe réussit son premier au Kirghizistan. Les Canadiens n’ont (7,134 mètres), Pobedy (7,439 mètres) et manuels et les itinéraires photocopiés du jour d’escalade au mont Boks, un pic pas besoin de visas. Des vols s’y rendent Khan Tengri (7,010 mètres). 95 p. cent camp de base, tous en russe, rendaient de 4,293 mètres aisément accessible par depuis Moscou, Dubai, Istanbul ou du territoire du Kirghizistan se forme aussi la présence des guides avantageuse. glacier, incluant du scrambling escarpé et Séoul. Les conditions sanitaires sont modernes, la bière bonne et les tarifs de montagnes dont 40 p.cent s’élèvent à Toute l’expérience, en fait, se révéla très « une vue spectaculaire des monts Tian. Mike Gitlin enjoys the view of the Ala Archa Glacier. | Mike Gitlin savoure la vue du glacier Ala Archa. plus de 3,000 mètres. Les Kirghizes ne russe » et différente de tout ce dont nous Le lendemain, nous avons entrepris bas. Plus important, l’endroit n’a pas Photo: Steve Fedyna se donnent pas la peine de nommer les avions fait l’expérience auparavant. le mont Baichichikey, 4,516 mètres (coté été ruiné par un tourisme endémique. Jackie Clark, Mike Gitlin and Gabrielle Savard ascend Ala Archa Glacier. | Jackie Clark, Mike Gitlin et sommets de 4,000 mètres ou moins et PD+) : essentiellement une marche sur Nous avons trouvé les habitants locaux Par exemple, le déjeuner dépendait du Gabrielle Savard gravissent le glacier Ala Archa. Photo: Steve Fedyna beaucoup de premières ascensions sont à fait que nous quittions le camp, mais le glacier conclue par de la grimpe tech‑ sincèrement accueillants et enthousiasmés faire. principal repas de la journée était toujours nique amusante. de recevoir des visiteurs. Avoir formé un Nous avions choisi le parc national le dîner, servi à 14 heures les jours de À 4,860 mètres, le pic Corona entouré groupe épatant de Canadiens en forme Ala Archa pour son accessibilité et son repos ou à n’importe quelle heure si vous de ses nombreux sommets (d’où son et compétents — dont l’un en russe — a abondance en sommets faciles à modérés aviez grimpé ou reveniez d’une montée. nom), fut le plus exigeant techniquement. certainement aidé aussi! (PD à AD en cotation globale). Notre Ce système sensé nous permettait de Nous nous y rendions une heure avant L’équipe CAC des Rocheuses- présence en juillet assurait des conditions transporter une collation légère en l’aube. Notre guide avait proposé d’aller à Kirghizistan incluait Jackie Clark, Steve météo plus stables. En outre, avec un prix grimpant avant de nous remplir d’un un camp élevé la veille, mais nous avions Fedyna, Gabrielle Savard, Clarence Kort de 700 $ incluant le transport et les por‑ repas de deux services au retour. Toujours opté pour une journée moyennement (RMS); Alex Joseph et David Wong teurs, les guides, l’hébergement, les repas, à 19 heures, le souper se composait de longue de 12 heures et d’un seul élan (section Calgary); Patrick Lam et Mike les permis, les tarifs du parc et l’équipe‑ soupe et de salade ou d’un plat unique depuis le camp de base. À constater l’état Gitlin (section Toronto). ment du groupe (cordes et ancrages pour plus costaud. de l’abri du camp en altitude, c’était la De l’administration du CAC section lignes fixes, etc.), ça ne coûtait pas cher Le style de l’équipement et la méthode bonne décision! Après une marche en Rocheuses, Steve Fedyna habite Canmore non plus! étaient aussi très russes : progresser en glacier vers ce camp, l’itinéraire se for‑ (Alberta) avec Jackie Clarke, épouse qui Notre semaine a commencé par un solo jusqu’à ce qu’un problème technique mait de glace escarpée, dont 200 mètres partage avec lui le goût des séjours d’escalade saut dans la camionnette qui attendait à vous pousse à vous asseoir pendant que d’ascension sur cordes fixes d’une glace uniques.
12 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 kitchen tent – then beg0an working. ACC member drills Arctic ice cores Running the motorized drill was left to
by Lynn Martel Criscitiello and Lehnherr in recognition of another challenge – Hirose was three t was a trip of a lifetime. months pregnant. Alpine Club of Canada member “The risks associated with my being Jocelyn Hirose travelled from her pregnant had to be discussed right from ICanmore home to Ellesmere Island in the start,” Hirose admitted. Canada’s high Arctic to drill glacial ice Those included flying at high eleva‑ cores. tions in un-pressurized planes, but they A Banff National Park resource mostly flew below 3,050 metres. Pregnant conservation officer with a Masters northern women, Hirose pointed out, fly in glaciology, Hirose was invited by in small planes for medical appointments. her part-time roommate, glaciologist She didn’t experience any worrying Alison Criscitiello. symptoms. For three years Criscitiello has been Another potential hazard they didn’t principle investigator on ice core drilling worry much about was falling into cre‑ projects in Canada’s high Arctic. She vasses, as the snowpack was at its seasonal invited Hirose as field assistant to per‑ maximum. form the meticulous work of processing Using a single-barrel Kovacs drill, Jocelyn Hirose packs up glacier ice cores to be transported — via several pitstops — to the University of and packaging ice cores. Camping and they cut the ice in one-metre segments, Alberta’s ice core lab in Edmonton. Photo: Alison Criscitiello conducting scientific research at 82 adding one-metre sections of pipe to the degrees north latitude for two weeks in drill to retrieve the next segment. The The cores taken from Ellesmere provide find this far north.” early summer was a dream trip for both. process is repeated until the 20-metre- a record back to about 1960. For Hirose, the take-away was already “We just love to geek it up about ice long drill cuts the 20th core. “With respect to how much time any revealing. and dream about desolate places,” Hirose “It’s very physical work to operate,” one ice core represents, it depends on “I was extremely shocked that at 82 said. “We’re both really passionate about Criscitiello said. “There’s no winch, that’s where you are, and what the accumulation degrees north, looking at ice cores esti‑ glaciers and ice and harsh conditions. why we hit a max depth with this drill. rate is at that location,” she explained. mated to be from the 1980s, to present And this is a place no-one easily gets It also becomes prone to getting stuck if “On some of Ellesmere Island’s icecaps crumbly layers that existed in the ice, permits to go to.” you attempt to drill deeper with a Kovacs, the accumulation rate can be relatively indicating melting that far north,” Hirose “What a dream for me to be able to in part because the whole system has a low, meaning that every year is a thin slice said. “You lose precision when a core is take a close friend – but also an incredible bit of wiggle to it due to the way that within the core; therefore a 20-metre core broken into lots of pieces, makes it diffi‑ teammate for this kind of work – into the one-metre pipe sections attach to goes back relatively far in time – 40 or cult to date. The high Arctic is really the the field with me,” Criscitiello added. one another.” 50 years.” place that’s being impacted by climate “Jocelyn is extremely skilled when it Drilling one 20-metre core took one On her PhD projects in West change, and the urgency to do more comes to everything required for pro‑ full day – in Ellesmere’s 24-hour sunlight. Antarctica she drilled cores hundreds coring in the high Arctic is really evident. cessing an ice core – understanding and Each metre section was packaged in long of metres deep, where high accumula‑ If we wait too long we’re not going to get reading weather, and living and working tubes of thick, flexible plastic sealed at tion rates can yield 20 years of data per much info.” in harsh conditions.” both ends, with nine segments packaged 20-metre core, with high resolution. Republished with permission from the Having Hirose’s Parks Canada into large insulated boxes for shipping. “I’m really excited, it’s so far north,” Rocky Mountain Outlook. training include a firearm permit – neces‑ Criscitiello flew on a “cold deck” Twin Criscitiello said. “It will be interesting Alpine Club of Canada member and sary for working within Quttinirpaaq Otter – an entire plane that’s kept frozen to see what the marine signal looks like, Canmore resident Jocelyn Hirose is an avid National Park – was helpful. Just 800 – to Resolute. The boxes flew by com‑ where it’s predominantly coming from, climber and backcountry skier, and a total kilometres from the North Pole, the Park Glaciologist Alison Criscitiello, left, with colleague Igor Lehnerr looking on, drills into the ice cap on Ellesmere Island to retrieve a one-metre segment of glacial ice which she will analyse back in the lab at mercial plane to Edmonton to be stored and what environmental contaminants we glacier geek. boasts rugged peaks, ice caps, glaciers and the University of Alberta. Photo: Jocelyn Hirose at the University of Alberta’s Canadian tundra sparsely inhabited by Arctic hare, Ice Core Archive, of which Criscitiello is Winter Leadership Course for ACC Volunteers foxes, wolves, muskoxen, Peary caribou Fiord and Alert. They touched down weight of the plane. technical director. and polar bears. at Lake Hazen to pick up collaborator “He literally skied the icecap with his Natural Resources Canada Twice a year, ACC sections from across “I was the bearer of the shotgun on Igor Lehnherr, assistant professor at plane,” Hirose described. has funded 80 to 90 per cent of the country send their leaders to bear watch,” Hirose said. “I had the shot‑ University of Toronto-Mississauga, from “Kenn Borek pilots are truly the best Criscitiello’s Arctic projects; for the The North Face – ACC gun right next to my ice core processing his research site to work with them. in the world at Arctic and Antarctic remainder she collaborates with sci‑ Leadership Course spot. It was pretty surreal.” “When we landed at Lake Hazen to flying,” Criscitiello said. “They take off in entists from Environment Canada’s Just travelling there was an adventure, pick up Igor, a polar bear and her cub had variable snow conditions, and sometimes Northern Contaminants Program flying from Calgary to Ottawa, then to just walked through camp,” Criscitiello in very tight and technical locations, which looks at mercury, plastics and Iqaluit, stopping in several communities said. “So, I was a little worried, but we which can also be extremely difficult. flame retardants’ presence and levels.
before reaching Resolute Bay, Nunavut. never did see any.” It’s very committing when they fly away. Criscitiello studies paleoclimate records Knechtel Kirsten Photo: From there they flew 995 kilometres by Before landing at their site, the Kenn You’re really on your own.” to reconstruct climate of past time Location: Lake Louise Alpine Centre | Dates: February 2 – 10, 2018 | Price: $995 Twin Otter, refuelling along the way (and Borek Air pilot flew low to test that the They set up camp - small moun‑ periods, analysing the chemistry of each Deadline for applications: November 24, 2017 | www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/tnf return) at Eureka, Grise Fiord, Tanquary snowpack wouldn’t collapse under the taineering tents for sleeping plus a large core to see what that location tells her.
14 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 15 32 Backcountry Huts Find yours!
Sunny skies and big expanses of white at the Scott Duncan Hut on the southern end of the Wapta Icefields. Photo by Leigh McClurg, Pebbleshoo.com. www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/huts my left shoe on before my right, and I put focussed, flow state. Being up high is Profile: my liquid chalk on exactly one minute nice too. I learned how to trad climb this before I put my hands on the boulder. summer, that was super exciting. Climbing Alannah Yip Other than that, I try not to be too strict Pulse, my first 14a, took three weeks of in my training routine. effort, so I had it pretty dialled at the end. It by Lynn Martel was a cool experience of projecting a route, Have any competitions taught you t 24, North Vancouver native big lessons? I’d never done something that needs that Alannah Yip is a rising star in micro beta. I had to do a thumb stack half‑ competitive and recreational I’ve definitely had my share of rough way up the route. A friend spent 10 minutes climbing. She won Boulder, Speed and comps. I have learned through trial and explaining the position with his fingers. A error though, not to get too focussed, too It’s a really cool route, it has big powerful Lead national competitions to become the top all-around Canadian female for 2017. serious, and how to keep that balance moves. There’s one move that I kind of In April, she became the first Canadian between focussing and not being too have to jump for, there’s a finger lock and a female in IFSC history to make the senior serious. thumb stack. And it’s really overhanging. I finals at a World Cup event, Boulder What are your was really happy when I got it. in Chongqing, China. In September, competition highlights? What’s your favourite place to she climbed her first 5.14a, Pulse in climb outdoors? Cheakamus Canyon in Squamish, the The Bouldering World Cup in China Alannah Yip reaches for the top at the 2017 route’s first female ascent. Set to graduate in April. The first World Cup of the sea‑ Chongqing Boulder World Cup in China, Squamish. It’s got everything. What with an Engineering degree from the son and I made the final round – that was becoming the first Canadian woman to make the senior finals at an ISCF World Cup event. more could you ask for? University of British Columbia in April, my goal, and it kept me focussed on my Photo: Sebastien Lazure What are your climbing goals? she coaches the Youth Team at Vancouver’s training all winter. Others – making the Edge climbing gym. She’ll compete in Bouldering semi-final at the World Cup in Paris [2016], and at the World Cup in Do you climb outdoors? I’d like to make the Olympics, World Cup events this year with her eye Bouldering in Tokyo 2020. Only 20 on the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Switzerland [2016]. It was my first World Cup of that season, and my first in about This summer, for two months I climbed athletes of each gender from the entire Where do you live? five or six years. When I decided to com‑ only outdoors, in Squamish. I really like world will make it. My climbing goal pete in the whole World Cup circuit that when you’re so focussed on the moment in general is to always be climbing, and I live with my parents in the same year, I trained not knowing how strong I and that flow you get into. Outdoors always climbing outside. My goal is to be house I grew up in. I’m a student at was. Making the semi-finals validated to you get so much more time in that really a climbing-for-lifer. UBC, and with the cost of housing me that I was strong enough to be there. in Vancouver…!” Do you have any climbing What are you studying? mentors?
I’m studying mechanical engineering, Since day one, Sean [McColl]. And specializing in mechatronics, a com‑ the Weldon sisters, Stacey and Vikki. bination of mechanical and electrical Stacey coached me when I was 12. I’ve Canada’s Adventure Tourism engineering. Pretty much everything idolized them since I was young. They these days uses mechatronics systems – work really hard for what they want, and small computers that read data, like the they’re always positive, smiling, always Reservation System sensors in phones, fridges, cars. Alannah Yip eyes her next move at the 2017 Canadian Lead National Championships at Canyon Escalade having fun. How were you introduced climbing gym in Montreal. Photo: Sebastien Lazure Do you learn from to climbing? fellow competitors? with the other kids. It was fun and I was What motivates you to push harder? Sean McColl’s dad and my dad went good at it. My first comp I got to climb All the time. I love being able to train to UBC engineering school together, and compete with my best friend on the Not one specific thing, but every time with some of my biggest competitors, and we’re family friends. Because of the team. I thought the other girls in my I walk out to a boulder, I want to get to learn how to be competitive and always age difference and I had no older category were strong – Elise Sethna and the top. It’s the only thing that matters be good friends. We work on techniques • Sell on Viator, Expedia and many more in the next five minutes. It’s not so much siblings, I wanted to do exactly what Alison Stewart-Patterson. I wanted to and styles. We can complement each • Automate bookings from your website Sean and Jason did. My first climbing how I placed, but how well I climbed. train and be that strong. other; one will be better at one technique, • Real-time analytics and reporting was indoors, I was six. My first time You’re so focussed and it’s all-consuming you at another. • Integrated payments, pre/post email Why do like competing? for that short period of time. Then it’s outdoors was at Cheakamus Canyon. How do you balance training with followups There’s a picture, I was 10 and I have a relief when it’s over! It’s always a different challenge. With friends, family and school? • POS and Mobile systems huge smile on my face. How do you prepare Bouldering, it’s five brand new problems, What made you want to for competitions? Well, most of my friends are my Call us to book your peronsalized demo! it’s up to you to sequence it and there’s try competing? training partners. That’s how it works out. 1 (604) 566-9284 nobody to help you. It’s a thrill! You I like to make sure I’m in a positive I live at home, hopefully have dinner with zaui.com | [email protected] I joined the Edge Youth Team at 10. I prepare by climbing as many boulders in frame of mind. I’ve learned I climb my my parents once or twice a week. Balance liked being part of the team and climbing as many different styles as you can. best when I’m happy. And I always put – it’s a work in progress.
18 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 19 old fire road, making noise in response to Three passes and nine days reveal historic route abundant bear scat. Nevertheless, popping by Dean Albrecht out of a willow patch I was startled by a black bear feeding in the bushes a few easting on Chinese food to metres away. He looked at me, I shouted celebrate our return from a very at him, and he took off like an avalanche eventful trip, I cracked open a downhill. The trail became more obscure fortuneF cookie. and, but for a piece of flagging past Fire “If you want the rainbow, you have to Creek, we may have missed a vague tolerate the rain.” opening in the bush which led to Otto This advice certainly was appropriate Creek camp site. after our soggy trek over the historic Day 5: Otto Creek to Ensign Creek Howse Pass section of Canada’s Great random camping, 20.5 kilometres. Now Divide Trail (GDT). For sure, rain was in rhythm with the trail, we made our present to one degree or another every first ford, the Amiskwi River. Signage day. So were boggy marshes and torren‑ at Amiskwi Pass informed us we were tial streams. entering Banff National Park. Ensign Hiking Kootenay National Park’s Creek offered another great ran‑ Mummery Glacier. Photo Dean Albrecht Rockwall Trail in 2014, my wife, Diane, dom camp. and I made a day-trip from Helmet Falls Day 6: Ensign Creek to Cairnes The faint trail continued through trees to floodplain’s marshy and heavily braided to Goodsir Pass and wondered what Dean Albrecht studies a sign marking David Thompson’s crossing of Howse Pass in 1807. Creek campground, 26.6 kilometres. the low rise of Howse Pass where a small ground quickly had us retreating to the lay to the north. Knowing this trail was Photo: Diane Albrecht Racking up 18 kilometres downhill, clearing hosted several signs acknowledg‑ forest trail. We resigned to end our trip unmaintained and not frequently trav‑ Ensign Creek logging road led to a ing David Thompson’s passage in 1807. at Saskatchewan River Crossing. Despite elled, yet historically significant to the fur buses, trains, four different national parks Day 1: Paint Pots trailhead to Helmet concrete bridge over the Blaeberry River. Pausing briefly in the rain to appreciate Diane’s amazing display of perseverance, trade, we were intensely curious about the ‒ Kootenay, Yoho, Banff and Jasper ‒BC Falls campground, 12.3 kilometres. Full We paused frequently to admire the this heroic feat – more so in light of our it was not reasonable to continue to area. Two summers later we launched our Forestry Service, Great Divide Trail with groups beginning or ending their Mummery Glacier while trying to ignore own experience – we remembered the Jasper. We rejoined civilization at Mistaya plan to continue from Goodsir Pass to Association, and the Parks Canada online Rockwall journey who were unconcerned the clear cuts. Crossing the Blaeberry, Ktunaxa and Piikani peoples who came Canyon for the 5-kilometre road walk to Jasper in one push. “Plans” inadequately reservation system to secure permits and with what lay beyond, Helmet Falls we followed an ATV track north and before him. At Conway Creek we left the The Crossing Resort. Regardless, success describe working with hotels and hostels, route info. was the last campsite we shared with immediately encountered fresh bear main trail and flooded valley bottom for a was easily measured; we added 163 kilo‑ any people. tracks. The abandoned BC Forestry faint uphill track into a notorious section metres towards our goal of hiking the Day 2: Helmet Falls to McArthur Service campsite at Cairnes Creek of deadfall. Facing 8 kilometres of logs entire GDT and visited a most significant Creek campground, 13.5 kilometres. marked the end of the road 9 kilometres and bush to go over, under, or around, the yet isolated area of our Mountain Parks. Descending through wildflowers over later. Floods had demolished the camp‑ trail was frequently lost and regained. By With Howse Pass, the Rockwall, Skyline, Goodsir Pass, we encountered three site, and footbridges over the Blaeberry 7 p.m. we surrendered and found a flat North and South Kananaskis Pass, Elk Pass, women travelling in the opposite dir‑ and Cairnes Creek. We eventually located camping spot. Ball Pass, Waterton’s Tamarack Trail and ection who revealed a critical bridge the unmaintained David Thompson Day 9: Howse River Trail to “possibly a few others I can’t recall” behind was out several days’ hike ahead. The Heritage Trail near camp and settled in to Saskatchewan River Crossing, 21.6 kilo‑ them, ACC member Deane Albrecht and his only people we’d meet on the trail, their wait for early morning low water. metres. Eventually emerging from the wife, Diane, continuously appreciate the news was concerning. McArthur Creek Day 7: Cairnes Creek to Lambe Creek “matchstick forest”, fallen logs continued Great Divide Trail. Learn more at Patrol Cabin marked the beginning of random camping, 5.8 kilometres. Our day to challenge. The scenic Howse River www.greatdividetrail.com the Ottertail River bike trail. With the began optimistically as we took advan‑ campsite further down the road, we tage of fallen logs to cross the outflow appreciated the cabin’s veranda when rain from Cairnes Glacier. Unfortunately, poured at dinner time. Diane slipped on the wet banks and Day 3: McArthur Creek campground sprained her ankle, which would have to Field, 23.5 kilometres. Rain continued consequences. After some bushwhacking into the morning, and after 14.5 kilo‑ we located the trail and continued at metres we reached a parking lot on the reduced speed. Reaching the waterfall Trans-Canada Highway, then slogged at Lambe Creek at 3 p.m., as informed, 9 kilometres to our accommodations in the bridge was gone and turbulent wat‑ Field. ers high. Time to camp, with a 6 a.m. Day 4: Field to Otto Creek random start planned. camping, 23.1 kilometres. We hiked along Day 8: Lambe Creek to Howse River the highway to our trailhead at Natural Trail random camping, 11 kilometres. The Bridge. After crossing a footbridge over waters were visibly below the previous the Kicking Horse River we entered the night’s level but swallowed my hiking Amiskwi Valley Trail. For several hours stick to the grip. Plunging in, we carefully we pushed through patches of over‑ crossed the frigid outflow thanks to a The remains of the Lambe Creek bridge bobs in the turbulent flow. Photo Dean Albrecht growth as nature slowly reclaimed the handy MSR utility cord and a carabiner.
20 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 21 Canine hiker a welcome companion Where by Biggi Weischedel leeping peacefully in my tent in is a remote wilderness setting, my trusted canine companion is next to meS holding watch. I have appreciated this your guard on most of my recent backpacking trips, though I must admit that during all my backcountry nights Keyla, a Shar winter Pei/Yellow Lab cross, did not once have Keyla settles into camp after a long day on the trail. Photo: Biggi Weischedel to chase away wild beasts or even rodents – or maybe I slept through it! I guess North Cascades National Park, allows leashed dogs. While I taking the nocturnal creatures sense my canine fully support the protection of wildlife and sensitive environ‑ company and stay away, though truthfully ments, I believe that responsible backcountry use by hikers with Keyla would probably be more than dogs is possible and sensible. you? happy to share play time with a coyote. Apart from the official, dog-friendly access rules, I’ve Our most recent adventure was in observed that other backcountry users are extremely happy to August in the Pasayten Wilderness in see dogs on the trail; they approach them excitedly, engage in Washington State with my friend, Ron, conversation about them and always make us feel very welcome. from Oregon. I had previously spent That includes rangers and wardens. I sometimes joke that I don’t three days in this area. It’s breathtakingly “get anywhere” because everybody wants to chat about or with beautiful, and even friends who have Keyla. However, even in off-leash areas I always have her leash through-hiked the Appalachian Trail and Biggi and Keyla reach Cathedral Pass, on their way to camp at Tungsten Mine. Photo: Ron Benton ready should I encounter horses or sense apprehension in other Pacific Crest Trail, plus most other US users, or when there is wildlife close by – such as the mountain Northwest trails, rate it among the best. I drainage, retracing only the first eight Since rescuing Keyla from the SPCA goats we saw at Cathedral Pass. was keen to return and widen the circle. kilometres. The loop totalled 100 almost six years ago, our trail adventures So far, I have not had to deal with any dog injury or emer‑ The Diamond Creek wildfire was raging kilometres on very well-maintained, are the highlights of each summer. gency, apart from a tired dog after a long hiking day. Along the southwest of our starting point, Thirty- well-signed trails. Most nights were Though I love our Canadian backcountry, PCT and other Washington trails snakes, wolves and grizzly bears are rare, as is poison oak (we’ve encountered none). Lyme mile Trailhead, but our chosen trails and spent around 1,800 metres; the trailhead I mostly find myself planning my multi- disease risk is also very low. Keyla carries her own bed and food, even the air were never affected during is at 1,100 metres. Our favourite spot was day or multi-week hiking adventures on up to 10 days’ supply. I use Ruffwear’s products as they are very our hike. We enjoyed beautiful weather Horseshoe Basin, where we rounded a trails in Washington State. The beautiful durable and have withstood many abuses. I advise increasing the each day without any rain or even signifi‑ corner to see an alpine meadow (which is Canadian national parks often allow dogs weight in the dog’s backpack slowly on day hikes while training cant clouds. actually arctic tundra) spread out in front on leash but off-leash areas are difficult for your multi-day trip. We hiked a loop, starting on the of us with a perfect campsite waiting at to find. Many backcountry provincial Our most memorable day in the Pasayten was our last, when Chewuch Trail, then to Remmel Lake, Horseshoe Pass. We were so distracted parks (e.g. Monashee, Cathedral Lakes) we took a rarely used side trail. The trails are in great condition Cathedral Pass, Tungsten Mine, Teapot by the scenery that we did not even are closed to dogs, while car-accessible throughout the Pasayten, but nobody warned us that due to a Dome, Horseshoe Basin, past Windy notice the eclipse while hiking out in provincial parks often allow them except fire years ago, this particular trail was obscured by thousands of within beach and picnic areas. Peak and back into the Chewuch the morning! fallen trees. Despite heading downhill, using GPS, compass and Luckily, the Cascades are not far from Keyla, left, and Biggi enjoy a rest and the scenery at Horseshoe Basin in the Pasayten Wilderness, maps, it took us seven hours to cover eight kilometres back to the Washington State. Photo: Ron Benton my BC home, offering amazing scenery main trail. All three of us had to climb over, under and around so and reasonable access for dogs. Before this many trees that we were completely exhausted when we reached second hike in the Pasayten Wilderness, the bottom. Keyla never stopped or complained, even though the we had explored the Pacific Crest Trail jumps and dives were often difficult for her. At the bottom, we (PCT) in North Cascades National Park, were so tired that we decided to use the remaining daylight to the Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness, hike the eight kilometres to the car instead of setting up camp. the Lake Chelan National Recreation Keyla and I crawled into my friend’s car minutes after arriving Area, and southern Washington sections and were out-to-the-world in minutes. of the PCT. Dogs seem to love sharing the outdoor life with their Join the ACC for a week of Within US wilderness areas, dogs humans, and seeing them stretched out in front of your tent fully-guided, fully-catered are allowed on your hike and in camp‑ while you’re enjoying the sunset and a coffee is a special treat. grounds. Dogs are also allowed on Forest I am blessed with a dog that loves to run and hike forever; our backcountry skiing in Service land, including campgrounds and longest day on the PCT was well over 30 kilometres! I believe picnic areas, leashed within recreation sharing the remote backcountry with my canine companion is areas and on interpretive trails, as well truly a joyful experience for both of us. Hokkaido, Japan as off-leash elsewhere unless the terrain Alpine Club of Canada Okanagan Section member Biggi Feb 1-8, 2018 $3745 requires leashing the dog for safety rea‑ Weischedel lives in Kewlona. She is always planning new places to alpineclubofcanada.ca/hokkaido sons. The PCT, even as it passes through explore with her four-legged trail mate, Keyla.
22 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Why is conservation of the mountains so important?
Because of their complex topography, mountains are fragile ecosystems. Species living there exist within very narrow and limited habitats. As a result, alpine environments are very vulnerable to human impact and climate change. Yet they provide Canadians with incredible value – cultural, recreational and spiritual. What are your objectives as VP?
TheACC is an important cultural institution in this country; one of the oldest in Canada. I’d like to raise our profile as a national voice for conserv‑ ation and stewardship of our mountain environments. I’d like all Canadians, not just climbers, to be proud of our advocacy and leadership. I’d also like the Club to get back to its founding roots. If you look at our original constitution of 1906, education, preser‑ vation, scientific study and the sharing of Lael Parrott makes the most of a warm fall evening, hiking near her home at Okanagan Lake, B.C. knowledge of mountain environments are Photo: Olivier Parrott-Landry at its core. #NoBadWeather How will you do this? Any environment. Any weather. Always warm.
Why I Volunteer I will work with sections to advocate Lael Parrott, VP for Access & Environment on behalf of our members for the preser‑ vation of Canadian alpine environments and for responsible, self-propelled recrea‑ By Beth Frank a place filled with poetry and music, and tion in areas where such access can be ael Parrott is The Alpine Club was a great introduction to giving back. ecologically sustainable. of Canada’s new Vice-President What do you get out of volunteering? I am also helping to produce a new for Access & Environment. She State of the Mountains Report, which is joined the Club in the 1990s and is It’s a great opportunity to connect planned to be an annual publication that L with people with all kinds of talents, will provide a snapshot of current know‑ currently a member of the Okanagan energy and expertise. And there’s a tre‑ Section. An environmental geographer ledge and understanding of the changing mendous satisfaction to feeling that I am and professor of sustainability at state of Canadian mountain environ‑ making a difference to someone’s life and the University of British Columbia ments, alpine ecosystems, and human to the environment. Okanagan Campus, Lael lives in communities in a format that is open and What motivated you to run for the accessible to all readers. Kelowna, B.C., with her 12-year-old ACC Board? Along with this report, I will intro‑ son, who she’s been taking on hikes duce a smart phone app to allow our in the mountains since before he In my professional life, I study members become citizen/scientists by could walk. landscapes, national resources and sharing their incredible experiential What was your first experience as environment questions. These usually knowledge of what’s happening in our a volunteer? fall into the class of “wicked problems” mountains. – issues that don’t have one best solution I also hope to build relationships I have always volunteered. I was because of competing social, economic between the ACC and relevant external inspired by my dad, who was a school and ecological objectives. The ACC’s organizations to cooperate more effect‑ teacher. Like most teachers, he went Access & Environment portfolio deals ively on access and environment issues. above and beyond his professional duties with these types of issues all the time. I Why is it important for ACC members to engage with his community. One of felt my expertise in environmental geog‑ to volunteer? Introducing the Featherless Jacket with synthetic insulation matching my first experiences was in high school raphy and sustainability aligned well with the warmth and feel of 700-fill down. Featherless keeps performing when I volunteered at a not-for-profit the portfolio, and that I could help by Our Club is as good as we make it. when wet so you’ll never think twice about the conditions. café in Vancouver that raised funds to providing scientific counsel and input on And everyone has a skill or talent that help people in Central America. It was these questions. will help us be better. Learn more at Marmot.com
24 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Petzl and The Alpine Club of Canada have been partners for more than a decade. We thank them for their support and dedication to the improvement of the safety and leadership in the ACC. The Petzl Foundation and the ACC THE
he Petzl Foundation, established in 2005, supports projects which TWO BIGGEST serve the public interest and give backT to the growing number of mountain communities. One such project was the creation of their Alpine Skills: Summer LAUNCHES handbook for hikers, climbers and moun‑ taineers. This hands-on, user-friendly manual represents knowledge collected OF 1981 over 30 years for the purpose of helping us all expand our understanding of the Nasa’s first orbital spaceflight, Explore magazine, first issue mountain world. The book is used in the Columbia, launched Spring 1981 launched Spring 1981
PG.45 mountains and in classrooms by profes‑ SPRING 2016 $6.95 Cycle Montreal DISPLAY UNTIL JUNE 10 sionals, beginners and students around YEARS SINCE 1981 the world. TOWNS ADVENTURE BEST 10 CANADA’S In 2013, the ACC worked with the LIVE THE ADVENTURE Petzl Foundation to translate the book
into English and distribute it in North QUEBEC REMOTE EXPLORING Basecamps America. The ACC is honoured to be a Canada’s 10 Best partner in this important project. ADVENTURE ISLAND BAFFIN Adventure Training materials for trip leaders Towns
OUTDOOR TRIATHLONS TRIATHLONS OUTDOOR FORGOTTEN Supporting the volunteer leaders at CANADA EXPLORING QUEBEC’S
our local sections has long been a priority YUKON ADVENTURES YUKON COTE-NORD LOST IN THE for the ACC, with one of our most recent TORNGAT MOUNTAINS PM 42720012 BAFFIN ISLAND accomplishments being the creation of BY DOGSLED our leadership field handbook series. These field handbooks are being Frank Pianka descends to a Peregrine nest with a bird box on his back. Photo: Mike Pianka Photography. PLUS developed as training curriculum for Best Outdoor Pants * How to Keep Winter Alive ACC leaders and are inspired by Petzl’s cliffs in the 1960’s but had vanished from and to the conservation of mountain Alpine Skills handbook. The Petzl the area in the 1970’s primarily as a result ecosystems. Foundation has kindly granted the ACC of the agricultural pesticide DDT. The Official Supplier of Safety Gear permission to use this great resource successful reintroduction of the raptors to the ACC Buy a to continue the work of developing was followed in 1996 by a banding pro‑ Earlier this year, the ACC designated mountain leaders in Canada and our gram, which is where the Thunder Bay Petzl as the Official Supplier of Safety field handbooks contain many original Section of the ACC came in. For the past Equipment for the Club. This designa‑ ONE YEAR SUB drawings from Petzl’s book. 20 years, climbers from the section have tion has benefits for our sections as well The first two ACC field manuals set up anchors and rappelled to nesting as our national adventures program. at 1981 pricing! - Top Rope Rock Climbing and the sites on the cliffs to retrieve chicks for Winter Backcountry Leader (avalanche) Our 22 sections across Canada now banding and examination by biologists. handbooks - have both been produced are able to purchase their group climbing When the exam is complete, the climbers and printed this year, with nine more gear, such as ropes, helmets, harnesses and ONLY return the chicks to their nests. Over the modules planned for the coming years. hardware at a significant discount directly past 21 years, more than 600 birds have These books are available to sections and from Petzl. been banded. their volunteer leaders both in printed And, beginning this past sum‑ In 2016, the Petzl Foundation recog‑ and downloadable formats. mer, if you attend the Club’s General nized that they could help and stepped in Project Peregrine and the Mountaineering Camp or one of our with donations of safety equipment for Thunder Bay Section climbing camps or courses, you’ll be tying the project. For the past two seasons, all in exclusively with Petzl ropes. $10*Already a subscriber? No problem, Project Peregrine is an initiative of ropes, helmets, harnesses, hardware and Petzl continues their support for ACC Celebrating add a year at this special rate. the Thunder Bay Field Naturalists to lighting used by Project Peregrine has safety and leadership training by sharing reintroduce Peregrine falcons to the been supplied by the Petzl Foundation, their work and making their equipment 35 YEARS Call now north shore of Lake Superior in Ontario. proving their commitment to supporting accessible to all levels of leadership in the YEARS of adventure SINCE Peregrines were a common resident of the projects which serve the public interest ACC. We thank them for their support. 1-888-478-1183 1981
26 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 The Bookpack CLASSIFIEDS Dick Culbert by Lynn Martel 1940 - 2017 10% Discount for Canadians The Magnificent Nahanni: The Struggle to Protect a Wild Place by Gordon Nelson In his historic and informed tome, The SUMMITCLIMB and SUMMITTREK Wild rivers, high, glaciated mountains, great falls, deep canyons, extensive forests, alpine tundra and Canadian Mountaineering Anthology, Bruce diverse wildlife including caribou, wolves, Dall’s sheep and grizzly bears comprise just a sampling of Himalaya, Karakoram, Aconcagua, Fairley accurately suggested that 1960 to Africa & Seattle Glacier School the natural virtues of Canada’s South Nahanni River region. Nahanni Park is also home to the climbers’ 1975 was “The Culbert Era” in the Coast dreamland of the Cirque of the Unclimbables. The Magnificent Nahanni captures all this and more, Climbing and walking trips for men Mountains. Most of region’s mountains sharing the story of a new model of conservation—the cooperative effort to conserve this area of the and women with Dan Mazur. were unclimbed, and there was no guide‑ Northwest Territories as a national park, while enabling Indigenous people to continue their longstand‑ All ages and abilities, expert to novice. book pointing out paths and routes up ing practice of hunting and fishing within its boundaries. Author Gordon Nelson received multiple Everest and K2 summit climbs, training glaciers and rock to their summits. During awards for his work driving the park’s creation. climbs and treks. Broad Peak G1 and that time Culbert made hundreds of first Published by University of Regina Press www.uofrpress.ca G2, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, ascents in the region, some of them classics North Col, Lhotse, Everest Glacier and others rarely or never repeated for‑ School, Island Peak, Muztagh Ata, midable challenges. He was active with the two thirds of the Coast Mountains, from Mera Peak, Shishapangma, Aconcagua, Varsity Outdoor Club at the University the International Boundary in the south Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya. Trekking of British Columbia, where he enrolled in to the Nass River in the north, and has to K2, Everest, Christmas Treks. A Peakbagger’s Guide to the Canadian Rockies: North 1958, earning a BASc in 1963 and a PhD in had two editions since. He published by Ben Nearingburg & Eric Coulthard Charity Service Walks near Everest. Canada-USA Friendship winter geophysics in 1971. He was also active with numerous journal articles as well as a book Situated to the north of its more famous sister-park, Banff, Jasper National Park comprises a con‑ climbing school (free, no charge). the British Columbia Mountaineering of his poetry, The Coast Mountain Trilogy: siderably bigger and wilder region of the Canadian Rockies. Bursting with colour photos and clearly www.SummitClimb.com Club, and The Alpine Club of Canada, to Mountain Poems: 1957-1971, in 2009. After drawn route lines, A Peakbagger’s Guide to the Canadian Rockies: North opens the vault on the varied Facebook.com/SummitClimbers which he was named Honorary Member retiring he began building hiking trails and plentiful collection of summits from the Columbia Icefield northwards. Featuring nearly 100 [email protected] in 1987. Admired and respected among near his home in Gibson’s, BC, including routes raging from simple alpine hikes on well-defined trails to challenging scrambles and demanding 360-570-0715 climbers for his explorations, he remains the popular Mount Elphinstone Summit alpine climbs, this book includes route descriptions for day-trips and multi-day expeditions for peaks revered and highly appreciated for his Trail. With his passing in May, the Coastal in all four corners of Jasper, as well as neighbouring Willmore Wilderness Park and Mount Robson Follow our progress on current expedi‑ impeccably researched guidebooks to areas mountaineering community bid adieu to Provincial Park, and peaks near the towns of Cadomin, Hinton, Grande Cache and Valemount. tions updated daily on our blog at: www.SummitClimbNews.com few had ever visited. A Climber’s Guide to one of its most prominent climbing and Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.com the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, literary pioneers. Interested in becoming a mountain published in 1965, describes approximately - with files from Ron Dart guide? www.leaderintraining.com Already a mountain guide? Waldemar A Rocky Mountain Sketchbook: A Step-by-Step Guide to Watercolour Painting and www.DiscountForGuides.com Drawing in the Mountain Landscape – Volume 1 “Fips” Broda The Joy of Mountains: A Step-by-Step Guide to Watercolour Painting and Drawing NOTICES in the Mountain Landscape – Volume 2 by Donna Jo Massie 1923 - 2017 UPCOMING While many Club members focus on climbing mountains, long-time Alpine Club of Canada mem‑ Born in Bielitz Austria in 1923, Fips ber Donna Jo Massie has mastered the art of painting them from her Canmore studio. Since the ACC Feb. 16-17, 2018 – ACC Board of Broda immigrated to Vancouver in 1951 first published A Rocky Mountain Sketchbook 15 years ago it has become a coveted best-selling guide Directors Meeting in Canmore. with his wife, Sigrid. Married 67 years, to painting the mountain landscape. With step-by-step instructions for first-time and aspiring moun‑ Dec. 31, 2017 – Deadline for all ACC they raised three children. The Coast tain artists, Massie shares everything an outdoor artists needs to know, from what supplies and tools Awards (A. O. Wheeler, Honorary Mountains proved a fertile playground for Membership, President’s Award, Silver to pack, watercolour palette and colour scheme suggestions, tips on painting clouds, rocks, trees, water, him, as he was already an accomplished flowers, shadows and more. Rope for Leadership, Distinguished Service Award, Eric Brooks Leader mountaineer having served with the elite Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.ca Award & Don Forest Service Award) Austrian mountain troops. He launched a weekend ski school on Grouse Mountain, Expedition. He led the western spur of STAY ON TOP OF THE NEWS and made several notable first ascents in the Peruvian Andes’ giant, Huascaran, in BC and the Yukon. He made the second Ya Ha Tinda, A Home Place: Celebrating 100 Years of the Canadian 1969, and also made ascents of Denali and Subscribe to the ACC NewsNet, our ascent of Mount Monarch, by a new route, weekly e-bulletin, to receive ACC Government’s Only Working Horse Ranch by Kathy Calvert and the first winter ascent of Mount Slesse. Mount Kenya. Continuing to embrace his national and regional news, mountain passion for mountaineering into his golden Lovers of the history and lore of the Canadian Rockies’ enchanting landscapes will want to In 1958 he was climbing leader of the highlights and much more. Subscribe at years, he climbed Ecuador’s Cotopaxi and, curl up by a winter’s fire with this lovingly crafted volume celebrating one of the region’s storied www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/newsnet British Columbia Centennial Expedition places. Nestled in a biologically rich and unique area of the Rockies’ front ranges where indigen‑ to Mount Fairweather, here they succeeded on his 70th birthday, Chimbarazo. He then climbed 6,476-metre Mera Peak in ous people’s use dates back 9400 years, Ya Ha Tinda was acquired in the early 1900s by the Classified Ad Rates: on the second ascent, also by a new route. On that trip he also made the first ascent Nepal at the age of 75, his first Himalayan Brewster Brothers Transfer Company on a grazing lease to raise and break horses for their Banff $30 plus $1 per word + taxes and Lake Louise guiding and outfitting business. Calvert’s book weaves stories of the natural of Mount Sabine, which he named for summit, following his motto to “never give landscape with those of the colourful men and women who have worked and lived in this place Email your ad to: his daughter. In 1967 he led the ascent of up, nothing is impossible.” An Alpine Club special to Parks Canada and its warden service. [email protected] Centennial Peak as part of The Alpine of Canada Life Member, Broda died on Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.ca Club of Canada’s Yukon Alpine Centennial August 15 at the age of 94.
28 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 Le Club Alpin du Canada Gazette hiver 2017 29 Open Air by Kristy Davison, ACC Marketing Associate
ow much will a pirate pay to get his ears pierced?” You expect to learn about Hclimbing, rope skills and glacier travel when you sign up for The Alpine Club of Canada’s First Summits Camp at Bow Hut in Banff National Park. But nothing Like a can prepare you for the avalanche of one- liners and inside jokes waiting for you when you head into the backcountry with second skin. Peter Amann as your guide. I have been working closely with Keith Haberl in the National Office But softer. in Canmore this year - mostly writing stories, publishing the blog, and manag‑ ing our GreenGreyWhite photo contest Smartwool’s 100% Merino 250 baselayer is and social channels. When a last-minute Kristy Davison soaks in the summit experience on Mount Gordon. Photo: Melissa Jenning ridiculously soft, naturally thermoregulating, spot opened on the First Summits Camp, odor-resistant, and machine washable. I jumped at the opportunity to go. them to distract the group from suffering pipe up with some unexpected sideways A new cold-weather essential. Peter Amann, an ACMG certified when the going gets tough. If I didn’t joke about vampires and fish sticks that Mountain Guide who has guided an need to pee so badly the whole time really made my day. unbelievable 526 days on ACC trips over (ladies, glacier travel is not for the faint of We lucked out weather-wise, other the past 18 years, also happens to be our bladder) I would have committed them than on day three when a storm began 2017 Patron of the Mountain Guides Ball. all to memory. to roll our way across the glacier toward I was looking forward to getting to know In between jokes, over five days Peter Mount Gordon. The clouds turned that him and to be out in the mountains with and Diana gave us some great knot-tying deep shade of steel-blue that you hope one of the Rockies’ legendary guides. not to see when you’re miles from shelter. Ten of us started from the trailhead, demonstrations, led us through basic I wondered whether Peter’s moustache including Peter and camp manager crevasse rescue and self-arrest tech‑ was tingling as he had told us it was Diana MacGibbon - Rocky Mountain niques, explained glacier travel etiquette prone to do in the mountains when an Section member, keen rock climber and and safety, and led us across the Wapta electrical storm was brewing. unabashed cat lover. We were a loose‑ Icefield to summit two peaks - Mount By the end of the trip, Peter had ly-thrown-together gang of military, Olive and Mount Gordon. earned a new nickname, “Gristle forestry, physics, science, business, arts With Peter’s experienced guidance McThornbody”, and had made darn sure and athletics experts with virtually noth‑ and Diana’s calm leadership, we reached that if we took away one life lesson from ing in common except that we were in the summits, pushing ourselves beyond this trip, it was that a true mountaineer this together. I was curious to see how the what we had thought we were capable of. can survive on nothing but a “coyote personalities and skill levels would work But, I must say, it was the moments of breakfast” (an Amann family favourite out, and how Peter would manage it all. quiet, sitting enjoying our hot chocolate consisting of only two ingredients: a pee Thankfully, he carries an 80-litre bag on the deck of Bow Hut or eating our and a look around). full of dad jokes, and is an expert at using lunch out in the snow, when Peter would At ACC huts, we interact in close Smartwool athlete and quarters with people we may never have big mountain skier had a reason to know in our lives back Kalen Thorien Upgrade Your Skills home, brought together only by a com‑ • Avalanche Safety Training mon interest in mountain adventures and • Winter Camping backcountry good times. Hut life builds Smartwool and the Little Guy logo are trademarks of TBL Licensing LLC. © 2017 TBL Licensing LLC. All rights reserved. smartwool.com • Ski Mountaineering good mountain people. And trips like the • Crevasse Rescue First Summits Camp take that idea one step further by connecting these strangers • Backcountry Skiing physically on a shared rope, taking them • Leadership Training wandering across glaciers and up snowy For more information: summits, delicately stepping inside one alpineclubofcanada.ca/adventures/winter-skills another’s footsteps, in perfect rhythm. [email protected] Oh, right, and if you’re still wonder‑ ing, it’s “A buccaneer.”
30 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Winter 2017 The world’s finest alpine equipment.
PHOTO: TIM KEMPLE
DATE: OCT. 14, 2017 FILE: TNF_W17_ACC_GAZETTE_SUMMIT_SERIES_RED_CLIMBER.indd PUB: ACC ALPINE GAZETTE CREATIVE: F17 SUMMIT SERIES_RED_ F17 | Summit Series | Iceland -5146 ISSUE: OCT. 2017 SIZE: SINGLE PAGE TRIM 8.38” WIDE x 10.88” HIGH ART: GO / F1 PUB APPR: MT OCT. 17