IMAGES & HISTORY OF NOOTKA SOUND & KYUQUOT SOUND ABOARD THE MV UCHUCK III THENOOTKA SOUNDER AUTHENTIC WEST COAST CRUISING • 2018
• Nootka Island Trail Hiking Access • Kayak Wet Launching Services • Kayak Rentals - Day & Multi-Day
RESERVATIONS: 1-877-824-8253 • [email protected] • WWW.GETWEST.CA
$129* Uchuck Special includes: er ONE NIGHT LAKEVIEW ACCOMMODATION een Campbell Riv Halfway betw & Gold River on Hwy 28 WHALE ROOM DINNER & BREAKFAST FOR TWO MORNING RENTAL OF A CANOE OR KAYAK *Per person based on double occupancy. Valid with your 2018 Uchuck receipt. Subject to availability. www.strathconaparklodge.com I 250.286.3122 2 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 CRUSE SELECTIONS
which is the rigHt cruise for you?
~ Day Cruises ~ Nootka Sound Day Cruise Tuesdays ~ Year Round Departures: 9am Arrive back in Gold River: 6pm (approx.) Every Tuesday the MV Uchuck III departs Gold River to provide freight and passenger service throughout the many inlets and waterways around Nootka Sound. This one-day marine cruise lets you experience the day-to-day events of a working vessel first hand, as it makes deliv- eries to logging camps, fish farms, lodges and other remote marine outposts. During the summer months, this marine tour day trip includes a brief stop at Friendly Cove to pick up kayakers, hikers and other passengers for the return trip back to Gold River. On any given voyage passengers can expect to see a variety of marine life from birds, to sea lions, sea otters and on occasion, even whales. Otter Photo: David Grimble
Friendly Cove Day Cruise Wednesdays & Saturdays ~ June 27 - Sept. 8, 2018 Departures: 10am Arrive back in Gold River: 4pm (Wed), 5:30pm (Sat)
During the summer months the MV Uchuck III provides day cruises to Friendly Cove also known as Yuquot - ancestral home of the Mowa- chaht / Muchalaht people. Once ashore, you can relax on the beach, visit the Nootka Lighthouse, walk the trails along the shoreline, visit the his- toric church and explore the tidal pools that are teaming with aquatic life. Fly-In / Cruise Out option available! Detailed story on page 10. 3 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III CRUSE SELECTIONS ~ OVERNIGHT Cruises ~ Kyuquot Adventure Cruise Thursdays and Fridays ~ Year Round Departures: 7am Arrive back in Gold River: 5pm (approx.) Cruise through Nootka Sound, Esperanza Inlet and on the open Pacific to the remote village of Kyuquot to deliver groceries and supplies. Enjoy the scenery and wildlife as the MV Uchuck III and her crew skillfully navigate the waterways to deliver cargo and passengers on route. The Village of Kyuquot is a remote destination and does not offer the amenities and conveniences you’d find in larger centres. It does offer comfortable chalet style accommodations that reflect the Vancouver Island West Coast maritime lifestyle. Guests with walking disabilities may find this marine tour difficult.
Detailed story on page 24. Photo: Susan Felhouser
Esperanza Adventure Cruises Four Sailings: June 15-17 or 22-24 September 14-16 or 21-23, 2017 Departures: 7am Arrive back in Gold River: 5pm (approx.) Similar to the Kyuquot Adventure Cruise’s route, this cruise includes a trip up the Tahsis or Zeballos Inlet for an overnight stay in the Village of Tahsis or Zeballos. The Tahsis Inlet is home to large rafts of sea otters for you to see. Once docked and settled in, enjoy an evening meal and explore Tahsis or Zeballos. Stretch your legs after a day on the water and enjoy strolling through these unique maritime communities. Photo: James C. Cameron
West coast Adventure Cruise Single Sailing, May 2019 (TBA) Victoria ~ Gold River - Victoria • Limited to 10 Couples If you are ready for a real off shore experience join us on our three day, two night West Coast Adventure Cruise. Once a year the M.V. Uchuck III travels to Victoria for her annual refit, and we take adventurous passengers along for the experience. If you crave the open West Coast then this trip is for you. This unique trip is extremely popular. This year’s cruise sold out in early January, 2018. Now would be a good time to make inquiries for the 2019 West Coast Cruise. Photo: Patrick Brady
To learn more about these cruises visit www.getwest.ca ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Editorial: Dave Young, Ian Kennedy, Gordon Elliott, Neil Havers and Alberto Girotto Sales and Distribution: Neil Havers (250)-897-5757 • [email protected] The Nootka Sounder is published on behalf of Nootka Sound Service Ltd. by Havers Design, Courtenay, BC (250) 334-2844 • www.haversdesign.com 4 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 RATES & 2018 schedule2 &0 fares18 SCHEDULE 1-877-824-8253 • 1-250-283-2515 • www.getwest.ca
Tuesday (Year Round) Exluding May 15, 22, 29 & June 5, 2018 Fares include 5% GST Nootka Sound Day Cruise Leave Gold River 9:00 A.M. Adult Fare $83.00 Arrive Gold River 6:00 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $78.00 Experience the day-to-day events of a working Child (6-12 years w/adult) $45.00 vessel first hand, as it makes deliveries to logging Child (under 6 years) Free camps, fishing lodges and other remote marine outposts.
Wednesday (Seasonal, June 27 to September 5, 2018) Fares include 5% GST iendly Cove Day Cruise Leave Gold River 10:00 A.M. Adult Fare $94.00 Arrive Friendly Cove 12:30 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $89.00 Leave Friendly Cove 2:00 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult) $50.00 Arrive Gold River 4:00 P.M. Child (under 6 years) Free Fares include the landing fee at Friendly Cove, Group (10 people +) $84.00 each proceeds of which go to the Mowachaht Band for the redevelopment of this historic site.
Thursday / Friday (March 15/16 to October 25/26, 2018) Fares include 5% GST Kyuquot Adventure Cruise Leave Gold River Thursday 7:00 A.M. Double Fare $645.00 Arrive Kyuquot 5:00 P.M. Single Fare* $465.00 Leave Kyuquot Friday 8:00 A.M. Extra Adult (Shared room)* $320.00 Arrive Gold River 5:00 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult)* $230.00 This overnight trip includes accommodation, *Single Fares not available July and August. dinner and breakfast in Kyuquot. NOTE: Freight runs year round.
Saturday (Seasonal, June 30 to September 8, 2018) Fares include 5% GST iendly Cove Day Cruise Leave Gold River 10:00 A.M. Adult Fare $94.00 Arrive Friendly Cove 12:30 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $89.00 Leave Friendly Cove 3:30 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult) $50.00 Arrive Gold River 5:30 P.M. Child (under 6 years) Free Fares include the landing fee at Friendly Cove, Group (10 people +) $84.00 each proceeds of which go to the Mowachaht Band for the redevelopment of this historic site.
Special Sailings (Two Nights: Thursday ~ Saturday) Fares include 5% GST Esperanza Adventure Cruise June 14-16, 2018 Sept. 13-15, 2018 Double Fare $1130.00 June 21-23, 2018 Sept. 20-22, 2018 Double occupancy only. This two night trip includes accommodation, dinner and breakfast in Kyuquot and Tahsis or Zeballos. 5 RATES & Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III 2018 SCHEDULE Kayak rentals & transport 1-877-824-8253 • 1-250-283-2515 • www.getwest.ca Photo: Julie Schimunek Photo: Julie Schimunek
Tuesday (Year Round) Exluding May 15, 22, 29 & June 5, 2018 Fares include 5% GST Nootka Sound Day Cruise Leave Gold River 9:00 A.M. Adult Fare $83.00 Arrive Gold River 6:00 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $78.00 Experience the day-to-day events of a working Child (6-12 years w/adult) $45.00 vessel first hand, as it makes deliveries to logging Child (under 6 years) Free camps, fishing lodges and other remote marine outposts.
Wednesday (Seasonal, June 27 to September 5, 2018) Fares include 5% GST iendly Cove Day Cruise KAYAK day WET LAUNCH Leave Gold River 10:00 A.M. Adult Fare $94.00 RENTALS SERVICES Arrive Friendly Cove 12:30 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $89.00 Enhance your visit to The remote northwest Gold River with a day Leave Friendly Cove 2:00 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult) coast of Vancouver Island $50.00 on the water. offers kayakers an oppor- Arrive Gold River 4:00 P.M. Child (under 6 years) Free Get West adventure Cruises offers kayak tunity to paddle in wilder- rentals for those who’d like to explore the Fares include the landing fee at Friendly Cove, Group (10 people +) ness areas that few have $84.00 each area for a day or for an extended kayak experienced. proceeds of which go to the Mowachaht Band expedition. for the redevelopment of this historic site. Day Trips From the Gold River From Nootka Sound to Kyuquot Sound Government Dock enjoy a day paddling and points in between are miles of unin- and exploring the pristine Gold River. Pack habited shoreline waiting to be explored. (March 15/16 to October 25/26, 2018) a lunch and enjoy the beauty and solitude This pristine wilderness is home to an Departing from Gold River, BC on simply paddle off on his or her adventure. Thursday / Friday Fares include 5% GST of this wild river. Fall paddling promises abundance of wildlife including Grey regularly scheduled runs, kayakers can These wet launches take place at select witnessing salmon migrations in the river. Whales, Killer Whales, Sea lions, rafts of load their kayaks and provisions and enjoy locations along the route within proximity Or consider a day trip paddling from the Otters, Black Bear and Bald Eagles. A lucky a marine cruise aboard this working of choice paddling destinations. Kyuquot Adventure Cruise marine cargo vessel. dock into Muchalat Inlet. Home to dolphin, paddler can see them all in a single trip. Booking Your Kayak Leave Gold River Thursday 7:00 A.M. Double Fare $645.00 sea otters, harbour seals, bald eagles and Paddlers can explore sheltered inlets The MV Uchuck III drops supplies off more this is a great way to experience our and stretches of open ocean. Hear the roar to remote resorts, fish farms and logging Transportation camps using a cargo winch system and a Arrive Kyuquot 5:00 P.M. Single Fare* $465.00 marine environment. of the surf breaking on the rocky shoreline, Kayak Transportation rates are from explore sea caves and paddle around sea lifting platform to retrieve supplies from $56.40, depending on the drop off or wet Kayak Rental Rates: stacks. the hold and drop them off on wharves. Leave Kyuquot Friday 8:00 A.M. Extra Adult (Shared room)* $320.00 launch location along the route. This Singles $45 / day Some of the more popular destinations The system of off-loading includes one-way passenger fare, kayak include the Bunsby Group of Islands, Arrive Gold River 5:00 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult)* $230.00 Double $60 / day supplies is the same system and gear transport and GST. historic Nootka Sound, Brooks Pennin- used to wet launch kayakers. Return fare not included if you require Our Boreal Design kayak rentals come sula, Nuchatlitz Marine Park and Rugged This overnight trip includes accommodation, *Single Fares not available July and August. Kayaks are positioned onto the lifting a return trip to Gold River from a remote fully-equipped and are designed and Point. NOTE: Freight runs year round. platform on the ship’s deck with the destination along our scheduled route. dinner and breakfast in Kyuquot. constructed to handle the rugged west What makes these destinations so spe- kayaker in position, ready to paddle. As Please contact us to make arrangements coast. Kayak rentals are available cial is their remoteness. With minimal or the paddler hangs on to the cables the lift and learn about the ideal drop off and/or from the municipal dock in Gold River, no road access, getting there can be a chal- platform is lowered overboard to just below pickup locations. home port of the MV Uchuck III. lenge. Get West Adventure Cruises offers the ocean’s surface, allowing the paddler to Saturday (Seasonal, June 30 to September 8, 2018) Fares include 5% GST wet launching from the 140’ MV Uchuck III. iendly Cove Day Cruise Leave Gold River 10:00 A.M. Adult Fare $94.00 BRANDING + Arrive Friendly Cove 12:30 P.M. Senior Fare (60+) $89.00 WEBSITE DESIGN Leave Friendly Cove 3:30 P.M. Child (6-12 years w/adult) $50.00 Arrive Gold River 5:30 P.M. Child (under 6 years) Free Fares include the landing fee at Friendly Cove, Group (10 people +) $84.00 each proceeds of which go to the Mowachaht Band for the redevelopment of this historic site.
Special Sailings (Two Nights: Thursday ~ Saturday) Fares include 5% GST Esperanza Adventure Cruise June 14-16, 2018 Sept. 13-15, 2018 Double Fare $1130.00 HAVERS DESIGN June 21-23, 2018 Sept. 20-22, 2018 Double occupancy only. This two night trip includes BRANDING WEB PRINT accommodation, dinner and breakfast in Kyuquot 250-334-2844 www.haversdesign.com and Tahsis or Zeballos. 391 11th Street, Courtenay, BC V9N 1S4 6 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 THE NOOTKA SOUNDER NuchatlitzKAYAKING THE ISLAND GROUP
Our adventure began the night before... Our intrepid flying kayak. I felt like I was in good hands. Story and photos The offerings of the Nuchatlitz group by Elaine Hanson crew of six kayakers showed up at Gold River the are as varied as your skill level or sense of evening before we were to embark on a nine day sea adventure. Among the islands you will find kayaking journey to the Nuchatlitz Group on the outer protected waters, large rafts of sea The beaches and tide pools provide a otters, the accompaniment of murrelets microcosm of smaller creatures and fasci- coast of west Vancouver Island. and loons, the curious visitation of seals nating art forms made by nature. We would and watching bears forage for food along sit in our boats or on the shoreline and wit- As we were arriving from different cies wafting from the galley. I cannot imag- the beach intertidal zone. ness the playful antics of sea otters as they locations in western Canada the logistics of ine a better way to start a trip. planning this trip was a digital marathon a Viewing the landscape, channels and few months prior. inlets from the carrier vessel offers a much Unloading and sorting gear for five larger perspective and appreciation of the kayaks at the MV Uchuck III marina was distance and time it would take to reach akin to stuffing, layering and cramming the outside waters had we decided to pad- each dry bag and item into every nook and dle these waterways. Instead we could re- cranny with barely enough room to batten lax, stay well fed and warm while taking down the hatches. Whew! in the maritime culture as the restored mine sweeper, a working boat, delivered All aboard the MV Uchuck supplies to fish farms, logging camps and roadless communities en route. This as- III en route to Rosa Island… pect of the trip was both intriguing and part of the adventure. Wet launch from the deck of the Once settled into the comforts of the One thing is for sure, as a kayaker MV Uchuck III near Rosa Island. MV Uchuck III you are quickly immersed about to depart the vessel via wet launch in the warmth and hospitality of the crew. is to befriend the deck hands - especially It feels like ‘family’ on board this vessel. the person controlling the winches for your You are welcomed to visit the captain in launch. You want this guy on your side! the pilot house, chat with the crew, read And quite honestly, it is an amazing expe- charts and indulge in the ‘scentual’ delica- rience. I felt like a child in a dream with a
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The Nuchatlitz has many ideal Calm water paddling in the Nuchatlitz offers spots for overnight camping. kayakers a limitless variety of shorelines to explore.
tumbled and dove, groomed themselves or and the weight of our boats was incentive sea anemones and starfish. As our days on the water were nearing broke open the shells of their catch of the enough to partake in the 3 - 4 course meals The Nootka fog rolling in creates a mys- the end we happily anticipated our re- day with a rock. They provided endless we prepared each evening. By the fourth terious effect, adding to the beauty of the turn trip to Gold River on board the MV entertainment for us. day our boats weighed less and the hatches landscape rather than detracting from it. Uchuck III. On the rainy morning of our The combination of on land and on closed more easily. Getting out to explore The glow of the sun on rock formations last day as we paddled about the waters water activity make this area a well bal- inlets and basins; to beachcomb and do and small islands could make them appear around Rosa Island awaiting our pick up anced choice for a destination. Walking yoga were also an incentive to burn off our like a Group of Seven painting before your we were already wondering what Elaine, the beaches, hiking up hills, and discov- calorie intake. very eyes. the galley chef, would be cooking up for ering old trails are as welcome as paddling The mood of the landscape, even the The spectacular sunsets simply bathe lunch. Then, as the vessel came into view, through arches, exploring sea caves and same landscape could change significantly you in their warmth and awe. Features we had big smiles on our faces - it felt like the intertidal zones. in any given day. Rainy days can acquaint stand out strikingly when silhouetted we were going home to the familiar cozy Great campsites and good food are key the paddler with treasures closer up, like against the brilliant colours of the setting comfort of the old mine sweeper boat in all components to any successful kayak trip limpets and seaweed; bat stars and urchins; sun. her glory.
Evening sunset in the Nuchatlitz.
Beachfront Bliss on Nootka Island /
Michael Stricker
oceanhome.ca @
CHECK REALTY 8 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 NOOTKA ISLAND TRAIL
Photo: Air Nootka TRANSPORTATION IN AND OUT OF THE Nootka ISLAND Trail
With unlimited access and limitless beaches, the Nootka Island Trail offers hikers a 5 to 7 day, 35km trek following the coastal shoreline of Nootka Island from Louie Bay Lagoon to Friendly Cove. Unlike Vancouver Island’s popular West Coast Trail, there’s no need to apply for a permit and you will likely have most of the trail to yourself.
The Nootka Island Trail features miles of sandy beaches flanked by old growth rain forest, sea caves carved by high tides, crashing open Pacific surf and stunning west coast Air Nootka flight heading past Maquinna Point on the way to Louie sunsets to end the day with. Expect to see sea otters, river Bay Lagoon to drop off hikers heading out on the Nootka Island Trail. otters, black bear, wolves and whales as well as First Nations artifacts along your hike. Hiking the Nootka Trail begins in Gold River, BC with Air Nootka floatplane service war between the British and Spanish. Today an historic church still sits on the shoreline, to Louie Bay at the north end of Nootka Island. Far superior to a water taxi, this 40k it is now a Cultural Centre. One of Canada’s few remaining inhabited lighthouses stands flight offers spectacular views of Nootka Sound, flying over the route you will hike to help guard on a rocky outcrop overlooking Friendly Cove and the entrance to Nootka Sound. familiarize yourself with the route. Pilots double as tour guides, pointing out significant From Friendly Cove cruise aboard the M.V. Uchuck III back to Gold River. Stops are landmarks and insights into the history of Nootka Island. made along her route (as required) at camps and settlements in the area to deliver supplies Upon landing at Louie Bay Lagoon it is a 45 minute hike through a rain forest along a and passengers. With a comfortable wood-finished lounge, coffee shop, and spacious seat- marked trail to Third Beach and the open Pacific Ocean and miles of sandy beaches, perfect ing on the open-air shaded upper deck this is the perfect way end the hike with front-row for beachcombing. With an ‘infinity pool’ thanks to a tidal dammed creek and established seats to kick back, relax and see more of Vancouver Island’s Wild West Coast. Groups of campsites this is a great place to enjoy the first day and soak up the west coast experience kayakers, bald eagles, harbor seals and sea otters are common sights along the route. Lucky swimming, beachcombing and exploring. guests aboard the MV Uchuck III sometimes see grey whales, killer whales and black bears The majority of the hike is along the shoreline, on sandy beaches and over rocky escarp- along the way. ments. Some areas are impassable at high tide but there are marked trails heading overland for these stretches. Calvin Falls is one the hike’s highlights as Calvin Creek cascades over a Trip Planning waterfall to the ocean. This is a great destination to spend a day, clean up and recharge. Surf Flying out to Louie Bay Lagoon... huts are tucked away in the rain forest nearby. Wolf sightings are becoming more frequent Air Nootka: 250-283-2255 in the area so be diligent with your food stores and waste. Further along at Bajo Point the [email protected] remains of an ancient Mowachaht/Muchalaht village still exists in the rain forest. Watch for Cruise from Friendly Cove the remains of a long house and plenty of culturally modified trees. back to Gold River... As you get further south the hike turns inland along cliffs overlooking the open Pacific Get West: 1-877-824-8253 Ocean, offering views of migrating grey whales and rafts of sea otters. Stretches along the [email protected] shoreline feature sea caves and pocket beaches, perfect sites for sheltered camping. From Maquinna Point you are on the final leg to Friendly Cove, serenaded by the crashing surf along the pebbled beach. Friendly Cove is the ancestral summer home of the Mowachaht / Muchalaht First Nations people. This National Historic site is significant in that it is where Chief Maquinna started the sea otter fur trade with Captain Cook. This lucrative trade eventually led to a
CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE
Not your average day cruise The other tourists were fun too, some The all day “cruise” in Nootka Sound Canadians and some from Europe, on the Uchuck III was the highlight of especially the Netherlands, great con- our trip to Vancouver Island. This is a versations about all kinds of subjects. working boat, in addition to awesome We were very lucky to have sunny and scenery, sea life all over the place beautiful weather. (seals, sea lions, otters, bears and a Elisabeth - Seattle Washington special unexpected treat 3 humpback Reviewed September 24, 2017 whales!) we got to watch offloading Wilderness Adventure fish food at a fish farm, a diesel engine at a logging camp and picking We really loved our Kyuquot trip. We’d up trash bags at a fishing camp. never taken a cruise before and didn’t know what to expect. The vast open The Captain and crew were very water and all the trees was breath- friendly and fun, joking with the fish taking. The crew was exceptionally and logging workers, telling us all friendly and let us tour the ship. We about the work they were doing, the made lots of new friends. A wonderful, history of the area (Capt Cook laid up relaxing trip. We loved it! in Nootka sound! Did not know that!), and pointing out the wildlife so we elalvarado - San Mateo, California Reviewed September 20, 2016 would not miss it. 9 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III NOOTKA ISLAND TRAIL
HIKING THE NOOTKA island TRAIL Vancouver Island residents’ experience on the Nootka Island Trail.
Myself and two friends from Sooke Story and photos decided to hike the outside of Nooka Is- by Jan Renfroe land in August, 2017. We flew out of Gold River with Nootka Air, an exciting float plane ride to the end of Louie Lagoon, on coast of Nootka and a lovely waterfall, as the west end of Nootka Island. From there well as inland lakes one can easily take a we hiked a short distance from the lagoon short detour to visit for a swim. to a beautiful cove on the outer coast of This trip ends at Yuquot, a beautiful Nootka Island to begin our six day hike to spot overlooking the ocean on two sides. Yuquot, (Friendly Cove) on the southeast It’s home to a lighthouse station on the side of Nootka Island. point. Here at Yuquot, you can visit a na- What beauty, each and every day! The tive carver in his studio, see old totems, route takes one along a rugged shoreline, visit the old church/museum and learn along great stretches of sandy and peb- about the rich indigenous culture that for bled beaches strewn with driftwood and centuries flourished in this area. mounds of colourful seaweed. Often the The Uhuck III awaited us here, and af- bays end in rocky headlands where you ter six days of trail food we were excited need to clamber up onto a short inland to try some great home-cooking from the trail, sometimes with the help of ropes ship’s galley, and were not disappointed. As placed along the way. These short trails we left Yuquot, sailing back to Gold River, wind through ferns and giant stands of a staff member spoke to us about various massive spruce and cedar and are a mag- points of interest along the way, one being ical change from the open beach hiking. the spot that Captain Cook first landed in From these vantage points there are often 1778. The whole experience was one we Spectacular views await hikers glimpses of the beach and ocean below. will never forget! on the Nootka Island Trail. There are several streams along the outer
Evening camping on the shoreline.
Hiking the west coast of Nootka Island at low tide.
Seasonal Rates available subject to availability. 10 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 VISITING FRIENDLY COVE
MV Uchuck III docked at Friendly Cove (Yuquot).
Visiting Friendly Cove
A trip to Friendly Cove puts visitors in touch with camps catching and curing salmon for win- Visitors to Friendly Cove can explore ter food. the shoreline, forested shoreline trails BC’s earliest history, with many of its “firsts”... first While doing so, however, they would and visit the historic church / cultural centre European contact; first beer brewed in BC; first have been very vigilant, concerned about featuring First Nation carved artifacts. European inhabitants; first ship built; first visit by a enemy raiding parties looking to capture slaves. Wars were not uncommon, Battered by savage storms on their European woman; first European settlement; first especially against the neighbouring Mowa- voyage from Hawaii and seeking a place gardens... and all at or near British Columbia’s first chaht who in 1935, despite earlier animosity, to make repairs and to find fresh water Captain James Cook with his ships Resolu- national historic site, established in 1923. amalgamated with the Muchalahts to form one tribe. tion and Discovery, limped into this bay on March 29,1778. While the British travelers, and then settle down to take in Along the way you’ll see how sport- It all starts with a leisurely day-long anchored their ‘floating islands’, the First the sights and sounds of the coast: the steep fishers entice different varieties of salmon cruise aboard the MV Uchuck III, Nations people shouted from their canoes: sides of Muchalat Inlet (a U-shaped fiord, onto their lines, the most prized being the leaving Gold River on Wednesdays “ itchme nutka, itchme nutka”, meaning “ a remnant of the last ice-age), covered Spring or King salmon reaching up to 50 or go around”, “go round” to a better anchorage or Saturdays between June and with Douglas firs, Sitka spruce, Arbutus, 60 pounds. at Yuqout, but Cook misinterpreted their September. Western red and yellow cedars and Western After passing the entrance to Zuciarte shouts, believing they were calling out hemlock. Most of the trees are second Channel, the Uchuck enters Nootka Sound Arrive at the Gold River dock in time for Nootka as the name of the area. growth, but their predecessors might have between San Carlos and Camel Rock - a the prompt 10 a.m. departure and settle Despite this initial misunderstanding, he been upwards of 300 feet high. popular kayak drop off. She continues west in for a fabulous two-and-a-half hour and his men stayed for more than a month One Douglas fir at Woss Lake on northern down the edge of Bligh Island (named af- voyage down the Muchalat Inlet and out here, becoming the first documented Euro- Vancouver Island grew to 305 feet and had ter William Bligh of Mutiny on the Boun- into Nootka Sound to Yuquot. peans to set foot in British Columbia. an 18-foot diameter, holding the official ty fame but at that time Cook’s navigator The Uchuck III serves as both a passen- After repairing ships’ masts and spars record as the largest tree ever cut in British on the Resolution), for another possible ger vessel and a working freighter which with Douglas fir wood; brewing beer Columbia. Over 1200 years old, it would drop-off at Vernaci Island and then onto carries all manner of cargo and people to using Sitka spruce needles, hops and have been growing before the Vikings Friendly Cove. logging camps, fish camps, fish farms, and molasses; and trading metal objects for sea invaded Britain. Once past Bligh Island as the Uchuck III settlements along the way. Prepare yourself otter skins, they sailed for home by way of Imagine the human activity of a few heads across the mouth of Nootka Sound for interesting stops at which you’ll begin Alaska and Asia. hundreds of years ago when at nearly every to Nootka Island, look back on the star- to acquire a feel for something of life on In China, they made a small fortune sell- creek mouth along this inlet the Muchalaht board and into Bligh Island’s Resolution this west coast. ing the luxurious sea otter pelts acquired at people could be found at their summer Cove, originally called Ship Cove by Enjoy a muffin, sip a coffee, meet fellow Captain Cook. Nootka and, when news of this new source
Nootka Island Lodge is situated on the Fishing Grounds and sits amid the quiet virgin timber of cedars, and rs and the calming waters of Nootka Sound in British Columbia, Canada. Our peaceful lodge oers comfortable rooms both single and double occupancy. The lodge accommodates up to 20 guests comfortably so we are an excellent choice for groups, family outings and retreats. 11 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III VISITING FRIENDLY COVE
of trade reached others, European and North American traders converged on Nootka, three hundred and thirty ships between 1785 and 1825, and nearly exterminated the sea otter on this coast. Two plaques in the cove commemorate Cook’s visit. As the Uchuck III enters Friendly Cove or Yuquot, “ where the wind blows in all directions”, notice the 100-foot high light- Overlooking Maquinna Point house on the port side, where the Spanish and the open Pacific Ocean. fort once defended the cove. government. The originals remain in Built in 1911 the lighthouse is not open Barcelona. to visitors, however, a hike up to it offers a Outside, and adjacent to the church, spectacular view of up to sixteen miles the baseball field marks the location of visibility up and down the coast - on a clear the Spanish gardens where, every Au- day, that is. Only two houses now occupy gust, the Mowachaht-Muchalaht hold the cove where once stood up to twenty their salmon barbecue and Summerfest. bighouses and where once lived 1500 Walk behind the church down to the indigenous people: the summer home of pebble beach to the West, pass the mod- Chief Maquinna and his Nuu-chah-nulth ern graveyard and go inland to Aa-aak- people. Only two now live here, year quaksius Lake or Jewitt lake. round. A small wooded islet in this lake once Once ashore take the path from the end housed the Whaler’s Shrine at which of the pier to the gleaming, white Roman the Mowachaht/Muchalaht conducted Catholic Church built in 1956 to replace purification rituals before going whal- the one built by Father Brabant in 1889, ing, rituals so secret even John Jewitt, which burned in 1954. a slave of Maquinna in 1803-’04, did A stop is made in Resolution Cove where The church now serves as a museum. not know of the shrine’s existence. Its 92 Captain James Cook moored to harvest Inside, the two painted glass windows carved wooden figures, sixteen skulls and trees to make repairs to his ship, donated by the Spanish Government the shelter that once protected them cur- ‘The Resolution’. commemorates the Spanish fort settlement rently resides in the American Museum of San Miguel with its extensive gardens Points of interest at Friendly Cove include a of Natural History in New York, sold to First Nations graveyard , totems on the beach that existed at Yuquot from 1789 until it in 1904. Near the lake, six cabins can and an ancient totem on the forest floor. 1795. be rented. Instead of altar and pulpit now stand Head back toward Yuquot, and seek two striking and colourful interior house- out the large totem pole flat on the posts with another two on either side of the ground at the eastern end of Friend- archway entrance. ly Cove. Erected in 1929 it fell to high In the choir loft, if not out on loan to winds in 1994. Farther east sits a small other museums, are thirty or so photo- cove with a beach where John Meares graphic reproductions of the drawings of built the forty-ton North West America Thomas de Suria and Jose Cardero done in 1778, the first European-style ship while the two were in Yuquot in the late launched in B.C. 1700s and donated in 2002 by the Spanish
Photos: Neil Havers 12 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 WEST COAST PURSUITS
or cutthroat from one of the many rivers Photo: Nathan Moody dotting the Island. The ultimate in sport’s fishing is to hire a floatplane or a helicopter and fish seclud- ed lakes and rivers. No matter your choice, Vancouver Island’s west coast offers fantas- tic scenery and abundant wildlife as well as superb fishing! HIKING With the famed West Coast Trail becoming so crowded that people planning to hike it need reservations, the Nootka Island Trail offers a 35-kilometre hike through the same kind of wild, pristine wilderness, but WEST COAST PURSUITS without the crowds. Most start at the north end of the trail, arriving there by seaplane, or having a boat The West Coast of Vancouver Island, one of the most or water-taxi drop them off at Louie Bay, at rugged yet most spectacular environments in the world, the north end of Nootka Island. Consisting almost exclusively of beach abounds in recreational opportunities from kayaking walking, the hike allows for seeing black to surfing, hiking, salmon fishing and spelunking. bears, wolves, cougars, eagles, sea otters, whales and sea lions. Enjoy showering under Calvin Creek waterfall, swimming dense old growth rainforests populated by and body surfing in the ocean, exploring KAYAKING wolves and bears; waterfalls; deep fjords, ancient sites where once stood big hous- and coves, secluded and sheltered. es, investigating the life in tidal pools and The First Nations people once ranged Supernatural! Wildlife galore: orca and beachcombing for treasures. up and down the coast in cedar canoes, gray whales, sea lions, black bears, Eventually, tired but happy, arrive four whaling, fishing and moving to and from cougars, and bald eagles. Most kayakers or five days later at Yuquot (Friendly their winter and summer homes. want to view the sea otters and rafts with Cove) where the Uchuck III makes In the same water borne way, a growing a hundred of them not a rarity here. In all bi-weekly pick-ups. number of kayakers now absorb this rich about 1500 of these adorable creatures live Challenging, not a trek for the unfit or aboriginal history, as they visit the coastal here, descendents of 89 sea otters re-locat- faint hearted, the Nootka Island Trail offers communities, the abandoned villages and ed from Alaska between 1969 and 1972, immense satisfaction for those who hike it. remote islands of the “Land of Maquinna”, and ranging from Brooks Peninsula south Strathcona Provincial Park offers numer- indeed one of the world’s finest sea kayak- to the Broken Islands. Paddle Kyuquot ous improved trails to explore. These trails ing areas. Sound, sheltered Esperanza Inlet or Nu- are suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Seek out a kayak tour company for chatlitz Inlet and Nuchatlitz Marine Park, all-inclusive packages or, if competent, go Nootka Sound and Bligh Island Marine with friends - going alone can be danger- Park in between. Unparalleled! WILDLIFE VIEWING ous because of the changeable weather and Something even more challenging: Viewing wildlife is one of the fastest adverse conditions. whitewater kayaking on some of the many growing activities in North America. British Many kayakers load their vessels on the resort accommodation. rivers cascading down from the nearby Columbia is the most biologically diverse Uchuck III at Gold River and sail on her Tackle the west coast any time of year, mountains. province with over 95 million hectares out to the outer coast to be ‘wet-launched’. but summer sees most people trying their that are home to a rich variety of flora and Arrangments can be made with Get West luck at catching the transient runs of Pacif- fauna, providing some of the best wildlife Adventure cruises for a return pick-up. FISHING ic Coho, Sockeye and Spring salmon, also viewing opportunities in Canada. Get West also provides kayak rentals Vancouver Island’s West Coast, holds a know as Chinook, or Tyee if weighing over Most popular on the west coast is whale from the municipal dock in Gold River. reputation as one of the finest fishing -ar 30 pounds. For variety, try bottom fishing and grizzly bear viewing. Vancouver Island All our kayaks are Boreal design and come eas in the world, salt water or fresh. From for ling-cod, rock-cod, snapper and gigantic is home to many adventure tour companies fully equipped to get you started on your mighty salmon to gigantic halibut in the halibut, some up to 175 pounds. that treat guests to the wonders of Grey West Coast kayaking adventure. These ‘saltchuck’, cutthroat, rainbow, and steel- Former Campbell River judge and writer Whales breaching on the open Pacific, kayaks are composite in construction head trout in fresh water, anglers here Roderick Haig-Brown enthused about the Killer Whales migrating in search of food and designed to handle the rugged west catch their limit of fish. joys and serenity of fly-fishing on Vancouver and Grizzly Bear feeding on salmon in the coast. A number of fishing charter companies in Island. His writings have lured people from river deltas. An absolutely splendid wild wilderness Gold River, Tahsis, Zeballos and Kyuquot around the world to come to enjoy the awaits paddlers: uninhabited beaches; offer expert guides, fishing charters and thrill of hauling a steelhead, Dolly Vardon,
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Photo: Nathan Moody
Wildlife viewing is included on your Photo: John Rawlings Free of charge these cave formations are accessed of the road to Tahsis from Gold trip aboard the MV Uchuck III. Guests can Gorgonian expect to see an abundance of wildlife in- Coral River. The Upana Caves is an underground cluding sea otters, harbour seals and bald adventure surrounded by honeycombed lime- eagles. Watch the shorelines for an appear- stone rock. There are, both, easily accessible Photo: Neil Havers ance of elk, deer and black bear. On some caves and extreme caves. requires approximately an hour to cruises guests are treated to sightings of complete a self-guided tour. Pathways and Humpback Whales and Killer Whales. Pacific Rim Park near Tofino, now the steps allow amateur spelunkers ~ those ‘Malibu of the North’ and the ‘Surf Capital who explore caves ~ to visit the fifteen SCUBA DIVING of Canada’, the offshore winds make any known semi-developed ones. part of the coast, and a number of lakes, Once underground watch for the Upa- Vancouver Island has become interna- perfect for windsurfing. na River as it emerges for a 90-foot stretch tionally known as a scuba diver’s paradise, through the Main cave before disappear- ly at Mozino Point. The abundance of life with the Jacques Cousteau Society rating it ing, but it reappears later in Resurgence and color makes this some of the best div- second only to the Red Sea for clarity and SPELUNKING Cave, the walls of which have been trans- ing on the island. diversity of marine life. Sometimes referred to as the “Island of formed by heat and pressure into smooth, With over 200 shipwrecks, Vancouver’s Scuba magazine ranks Barkley Sound Caves”, Vancouver Island comes riddled white marble. Film producers used the Island’s Nootka Sound and Esperanza In- (Pacific Rim) the number one winter dive with over 1,000 caves - more than any caves when filming scenes for the television let are a “must see” for divers world-wide. destination and number two for year-round other area in Canada - with the Upana series “Huckleberry Finn and His Friends”. diving. The temperate waters offer incred- Caves near Gold River being among the The Artlish River Caves and the Black ible visibility, up to 50 feet. See Pacific most spectacular. So spectacular in fact Hole north of Zeballos can only be visited octopus - the largest of all octopi - wolf SURFING that Gold River, with more than fifty caves on guided tours, but feature some of the eels, unlimited numbers of rock fish, fish The giant rollers and pounding Pacif- nearby, serves as home to the B.C. Speleo- largest entrances, interior chambers and eating anemones, sponges, sea cucumbers, ic surf attacking Vancouver Island’s west logical Federation for the scientific study of passages of any on the Island. sea pens, and sunstars. coast makes the ‘killer’ waves beloved by natural caves. Spelunkers must bring warm, A rarity in North America is the area’s surfers and windsurfers. Often up to 25’ in With fifteen known entrances, the Upana water-proof clothes, sturdy boots and Gorgonian coral. The corals are found height, these waves have turned this coast Caves, about 10 miles from Gold River, flashlights. Helmets optional, but recom- throughout the Tahsis Narrows, particular- into a surfer’s paradise. At Long Beach, in contain nearly 1500 feet of passages and mended. Mountains to Ocean... Technical Outerwear • Hiking Wear • Sandals • Packs Kayaks • Surf Skis • Standup Paddle Boards and more
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Sea Kayaking Tours & Wilderness Retreat Share in the joy, wonder and discovery of a vacation in Kyuquot Sound on the Northwest Coast of Vancouver Island. Experience the luxury of a wilderness base camp, knowledgeable professional guides, spectacular kayaking, diverse wildlife and local First Nations’ culture. Book your Kayaking Adventure today! 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511 • [email protected] Connect • Experience • Refresh Toll Free: 1-888-643-9319 or local (250) 928-3090 www.westcoastexpeditions.com www.grizzlycanada.com 14 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 the nootkan people
Photo: Neil Havers
Historian: Margarita James Carver Sanford Williams
Photos: Neil Havers In 1966 John Dewhirst and Bill Folan of Park’s Canada conducted the archaeological Yuquot Project at Friendly Cove. Evidence indicated that indigenous people had continuously inhabited the site for the last 4,300 years.
In 1992 Yvonne Marshall, then of Simon for generations the highest-ranking chief to their relationship to the Chief, and the Fraser University, enumerated 177 archae- of the Mowachaht people bore that title Chiefs ranked from highest to lowest with ological sites throughout Nootka Sound. or name. “Maquinna”-a man with special Maquinna as the highest ranking Chief in These studies prove that Nootkan peoples rights and privileges, one holding the high- the highest ranking lineage group of his had certainly inhabited the area long before est place in Mowachaht society. community. Mobility within the kinship the arrival of the first Europeans. Nootkan villages consisted of three saw people move from house to house or A Nootka community consisted of groups: chiefs, commoners, and slaves, the even from village to village. Commoners several distinct tribal groups, each one slaves being people captured during bat- with relatives within a household could claiming direct descent from a known tles with other tribes, and normally being claim residence within that household, or ancestor. History names Maquinna as the people owned only by a Chief. Members of if they so chose could go to live elsewhere. Nootkan Chief who met James Cook, but every household accepted rank according Therefore, in order to keep his tribe strong, 15 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III the nootkan people
the Chief had to win the respect, loyalty, berries into dried cakes. leading the hunt, and his wife conducting 2009. A contemporary Bighouse, the and support of the people below him. Toward mid-November the families ceremonies and spiritual preparations that House of Unity, officially opened in the The various tribal groups lived along moved again, to Tahsis, their winter home, began early in the morning and ended with spring of 2011 for cultural gatherings. the beach in rows of large wooden houses, where they hunted deer and bear, and the eating of the whale. Currently, the main economic activity of each with four to six families made up of fished the rivers. When rain curtailed such The Nootka enjoyed celebrations and the community can be found in the Local direct descendants, together with a number activities the time came for feasting and for held them often. Some marked family and Government, the forest industry and the of their relatives by marriage. Removable celebrations. By late December they were individual events as well as the opening tourism sector. The Mowachaht/Muchalaht planks fixed to permanent frames formed back out onto the coast to take advantage and closing of the herring or salm- operate the Muchalaht Marina at Ahami- large pre-fabricated bighouses, with the of the herring runs, and by the end of on seasons. The presence of guests at the naquus near the mouth of the Gold River planks of the sloping roofs easily removed February were returning once again to Yuquot. feasts and ceremonies served to validate with plans for future development. The to allow smoke to escape, or on pleasant With the Nootkan lifestyle revolving the event and amid much singing, dancing nation also owns and manages a six rustic days to allow light and air to enter. When around such seasonal marine resources, and feasting the host Chief lavished expen- cabin rental business at Yuquot since 1994, the tribe moved, they laid planks between Maquinna had to make certain that he sive gifts on his guests as thanks for their offering a unique west coast experience. their canoes which became platforms on controlled property rights and resources coming. In such manner he demonstrated One Mowachaht family still occupies which to transport belongings. Once in widely spaced areas. He ensured this by his wealth, generosity, and prestige. The Yuquot, the place most consider their arriving at the new location, these planks making astute marriage alliances to cement most important and elaborate celebration, homeland. This National Historic Site, the fit easily into pre-existing frames to make loyalties. The Nootka held strongly to the the potlatch, took place when a high-rank- original home of Chief Maquinna and new dwellings in which they established concept of group ownership over individual ing Chief passed to his sons any rights he original site of the Whaler’s Shrine, was their home. ownership, with his tribe collecting berries, himself might possess. once the only Spanish settlement in Can- The Nootka people changed locations fish, and game on the property controlled ada. with the seasons, and upon the availability by the tribe. Once gathered, they gave it to In December 1996, the Historic Sites of the fish, berries, wild spuds, medicine Maquinna who in turn gave most of it back First Nations Today and Monuments Board of Canada recom- roots, or bark and straws for weaving. They and thereby made the resources owned by memorated this site, formally acknowledging moved for instance to Yuquot (Friendly one, but shared by all. The Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nation the Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nation’s Cove) each February for spring and Skilled fishermen, the Noot- leadership is comprised of a Council of history there. summer because of an abundance of ka used a variety of traps, nets Chiefs. The community still follows the In 2006, Parks Canada and the fish, water, birds, seals, whales and and tools but only chiefs and traditional hereditary chieftainship system. community completed plans for Niis’Maas, sea otters. The men fished and some selected common- One of 14 member nations of the Nuu- an interpretive centre at Yuquot. The Land hunted. The women gathered ers could hunt the Cal- chah-nulth, the Mowachaht/Muchalaht are of Maquinna Cultural Society, a non-prof- shellfish and herring eggs from ifornia grey and hump- currently in treaty negotiations as part of it society, carries the mandate to preserve, spruce boughs placed in the wa- back whales. Because this the Comprehensive Land Claim that was protect and interpret the Mowachaht/ ter, and picked the wild berries. dangerous work required presented to the Canadian government in Muchalaht’s cultural traditions. As part of In late August, when the skill, preparations began 1980. this program, a Resource Centre at Tsaxana rains began, the Nootkans months before the actual Tsaxana, the main village site of the opened in 2006 that houses contemporary and left Yuquot and moved hunt began: the hunters Mowachaht/Muchalaht, is situated 3 kms historical artefacts, photographs, books from the outer coast into not only made and re- north of the Village of Gold Riv- and documents. the nearby inlets and paired equipment, er. The first construction phase rivers to catch the but also performed occurred in 1994 with forty-four salmon heading up- elaborate ceremonies single family units, an admin- stream to spawn. These and rituals. By April, istration building and gym- they smoked and dried with preparations nasium that included an adult for winter food, but complete, Maquinna education centre and day care In 1966 John Dewhirst and Bill Folan of Park’s Canada conducted the they also gathered a declared the opening facility. Ten additional variety of edible roots, of the whaling sea- residences were added in archaeological Yuquot Project at Friendly Cove. Evidence indicated that and formed ripened son with he, himself, indigenous people had continuously inhabited the site for the last 4,300 years. Friendly Cove welcomes visitors the world over. Guests arrive on to their relationship to the Chief, and the the MV Uchuck III to visit this Chiefs ranked from highest to lowest with historic site to enjoy the spectacu- Maquinna as the highest ranking Chief in lar scenery and learn more about the highest ranking lineage group of his the First Nations heritage and the community. Mobility within the kinship historical significance of Yuquot, saw people move from house to house or where first contact with Europe- even from village to village. Commoners ans was made. with relatives within a household could Photos: Neil Havers claim residence within that household, or Guests also visit Friendly Cove if they so chose could go to live elsewhere. to camp or to hike the Nootka Therefore, in order to keep his tribe strong, Island Trail. Cabins are available for rent, some with ocean views and beach access in a stunning remote setting. 16 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 along the route
Sights as seen from our guests aboard the MV Uchuck III.
Remote logging operation in Nootka Sound Photo: John Telfer Guests enjoy visiting the Wheelhouse • Photo: Alisa Modin
Open ocean enroute to Kyuquot Sound • Photo: Graham West
Silent sentinel near Kyuquot SoundReflective Landscape Photo: David Cotton Photo: James C Patterson
Curious sea otters rafting near the MV Uchuck III in Esperanza Inlet Photo: Neil Havers 17 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 THE NOOTKA SOUNDER
Grieg Seafood BC Ltd.
Operating in BC for 18 years, Grieg’s salmon farms are in Nootka Sound and Esperanza Inlet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, and Clio & Okisollo Channels on the east coast of the Island. We also manage farms near Sechelt on the Sunshine Coast, 75 miles north of Vancouver. Grieg’s proximity to its primarily Canadian and American markets means fresh salmon is available year around to its grocery store and restaurant buyers.
The town of Gold River is home to Grieg’s freshwater ly responsible means. The annual review process hatchery. The MV Uchuck III delivers supplies, equip- involved an audit of Grieg’s environmental, social, ment and fish feed to Grieg’s west coast farms. We food safety, animal welfare and traceability pro- employ full-time nearly 130 persons from a dozen cesses and systems. rural aboriginal and non-aboriginal communities. Jobs in the Aquaculture Industry First Nations As regulations governing BC’s aquaculture indus- Grieg’s aboriginal employees work at its head office, try are the most rigorous in the world, training and hatchery and farms. 10% of our workforce are technical knowledge of its staff is of highest aboriginal persons from nearby First Nations com- importance. munities. Salmon farmers, also known as aquaculture tech- Aboriginal leaders have supported Grieg’s nicians, must have advanced computer skills for programs to provide aquaculture training to their the purpose of managing extensive fish health members. Our involvement in career fairs ensures data. Science courses to understand the biology that we can promote the range of jobs available of salmonids, feeding and nutrition of salmon, fish in aquaculture, including farm technicians and health and husbandry are required of all farm managers, veterinary services, fish health techni- employees, as well as first aid, boating, marine and cians, environmental monitoring, HR, accounting safety skills. and operations. Aboriginal businesses providing Participating in Communities services to the aquaculture sector include water In 2017, Grieg contributed more than $100,000 taxi, smolt transport, catering services, barge trans- in cash and in-kind support to 120 community port and harvest vessels. organizations and societies on Vancouver Island Certified in Best Salmon and the Sunshine Coast. In addition to sponsoring Farming Practices fundraising dinners for salmon enhancement proj- Best Aquaculture Practices or BAP, is an international ects, we sponsored sports tournaments, fishing certification program that is science-based and derbies, arts & culture festivals, First Nations sport applies continuously improved global performance events, and health-related charitable fundraisers. standards for the entire aquaculture supply chain Grieg staff coach sports teams, volunteer with fire – farms, hatcheries, processing plants and feed departments and fish & wildlife groups, and are mills. BAP certification assures that healthy foods members of various Boards of Directors contribut- are produced through environmentally and social- ing to the health and care of their communities.
“We live in a world where almost one billion people FOR starve every day, another billion suffer from malnutrition FOOD FUTURE and yet a further billion suffer from obesity.” OUR Árni M. Mathiesen, Assistant Director General, Fisheries and Aquaculture, at the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization
FARMED World population is SALMON outstripping food production
GLOBAL By 2050, worldwide A SUSTAINABLE animal protein POPULATION consumption will HEALTHY FOOD EXPECTED TO RISE BY rise nearly FOR A GROWING THE AMOUNT OF FOOD THAT 2 BILLION 73% WILL BE CONSUMED IN THE Global Salmon Initiative POPULATION BY 2050 WORLD IN THE NEXT 50 YEARS United Nations WILL EXCEED ALL THE FOOD EATEN IN THE REST OF HUMAN HISTORY World food supply needs World fisheries are The United Nations Food and to double by Agriculture Organization forecasts a
currently 50% over global seafood shortage of 2050 exploited and natural (FAO PREDICTION) 50 – 80 BEEF fisheries will reach full MILLION FARMED FISH FARMED ONE IN FIVE PERSONS depletion by 2056 MORE THAN TONNES worldwide relies Global Salmon Initiative on fish for their primary by 2030 FARMED FISH HAS United Nations NOW SURPASSED BEEF 50% source of protein “Aquaculture is crucial for supplying the world’s food needs IN WORLD-WIDE for the next 50 years.” CONSUMPTION of all fish and seafood consumed Former United Nation Secretary General Kofi Annan Earth Policy Institute already originates from AquaVision, June 2012 aquaculture. 18 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 early exploration
In 1774 the Spanish became the first Europeans to sight the entrance of Nootka Sound. When the Santiago, out of Monteray and under Captain Juan Perez, anchored off Nootka at Estevan Point which he named Punta San Esteban after one of his officers Esteban Jose Martinez. Here he traded with the First Nations people for furs, but made no landing. Because the Spanish did not actually land and then take formal possession, the British would not acknowledge Spanish sovereignty over the area. This exploration oversight would later prove costly to Spain. On March 29, 1778, in search of the Northwest Passage, Captain James Cook with two vessels, the Resolution and the Discovery sailed into Nootka Sound look- ing for a sheltered bay in which to make repairs. As Cook’s ships arrived the Nootka people came out to meet them in canoes; this meeting was the first cultural exchange here between one of the more powerful First Nation’s groups and Euro- Captain James Cook and his ship ‘The Discovery’. peans. and thus Mackay became the first white During Martinez’s brief stay in 1789 he had dismantled their fort at Nootka, and thus On March 31, Captain Cook anchored resident of British Columbia. not only built a fort, but had also seized gave the British sovereignty over the area. in Resolution Cove and while repairs on During this period both Spain and British ships, stating that the vessels were For twenty years the Nootka people and the ships continued, trading took place Britain sought to expand their colonial violating Spanish sovereignty. Friendly Cove had been the centre of between the natives and Cook’s men. The possessions and, as a result, Nootka Sound These events triggered the Noot- Pacific coastal trade. Maquinna had Nootka offered various animal skins for and the North Pacific region became ka Controversy, which brought the two become one of the most powerful and trade, particularly the sea otter, but also important in the plans of both of them. The countries close to war. Spain claimed the famous of the Northwest Coastal chiefs. offered such goods as carvings, spears Russians also recognized the political value of territory as a result of the Perez expedition Despite European influences, the culture and fish hooks. In exchange they wanted the area, but the Americans, while seeing of 1774; Britain based its claim on Cook’s of Maquinna’s people had changed very knives, chisels, nails, buttons and any kind political advantages, seemed interested in actual arrival at Nootka in 1778 and on little, although they had come to rely on of metal. only its commercial viability. Meares’ purchase of land from Maquinna the goods obtained through the fur trade. The presence of iron among the Nootkas Many British expeditions, after Cook, in 1788. Nevertheless, despite the changes there amazed both Cook and his men and the arrived to trade with the Nootka. One The first Nootka Convention of 1790 was no lack of controversy. In 1803, the origin of this iron has never been traced, expedition, commanded by John Meares, partly resolved the impasse. France, Spain’s Boston under Captain Salter was anchored but may have come about through an over- arrived in 1786; then in 1788, Mears built traditional ally, was involved in the French some three kilometres up the inlet from land trade route already established by the a small trading post at Friendly Cove. The Revolution and would be of little help, Friendly Cove. After quarreling with Cap- Nootka. They used a trail from Tahsis up Spanish, like the British, realized the im- thus Spain returned all seized property and tain Salter, Maquinna led an assault and the Tahsis Valley to Woss Lake; from there portance of the area with its rich resource recognized that the West Coast was now killed all but two of the crew. One of to the Nimpkish River and onto Nimpkish of sea otter pelts and lands to conquer. open to both Spanish and British traders. them was a sailmaker named Thompson Lake they traded with east coast Vancou- Their desire to solidify Spanish sovereign- Though war no longer threatened, many and the other was John Jewitt, a metal ver Island natives, who in turn traded with ty there was furthered threatened by the unresolved disputes still existed over the worker. Both became Maquinna’s slaves for groups on the Mainland. movement of Russian explorers down the territory. In 1792, Britain sent Captain nearly three years, until rescued by Captain Repairs finished, Cook explored the rest coast after the same prizes. Therefore, they George Vancouver to meet with Bodega y Hill of the brig ‘Lydia’ out of Boston. of Nootka Sound, stopping at the Nootkan decided to build a fort at Friendly Cove. Quadra, the new Spanish commander After being liberated Jewitt published a Village of Yuquot where John Webber, his In 1789 Esteban Jose Martinez returned of Nootka. Though friendly, they could story about his experiences. shipboard artist, made water-colours of to build that fort. He wasted no time come to no agreement on behalf of their By the early 1800’s, with the decline of the sights and peoples. His illustrations in establishing one at Friendly Cove, but respective countries. Vancouver further that important fur trade, Nootka Sound provide a fairly accurate picture of both the for no known reason abandoned it a few ascertained that Spain would not fight for faded into obscurity. With the sea otters dwellings and the way the life among the months after arriving. Some months after Nootka, and that trade was now the main nearly wiped out, even more drastic changes people at that time. his departure however, Spain re-estab- Spanish focus. would occur with the coming of perma- After almost a month in Nootka Sound, lished the fort. In 1790 Francisco de Eli- In Paris, in 1793 Britain and Spain signed nent settlements on the West Coast. Never- Cook and his ships left the area laden with za accompanied by three ships, arrived in a second Nootka Convention and trade at theless, the profusion of Spanish names on furs and a better understanding of the Nootka; a small Spanish village soon arose Nootka continued to flourish. In 1794 they the map of B.C.’s coast will always remind Nootkan people. Once back in England, on the shores of Friendly Cove. signed the third and final Nootka Conven- travelers of the coast’s early international news spread of Cook’s expedition and the With both the Spanish and the British tion. The following year with Spain’s history. high prices paid in the Far East for their sea claiming the area, tensions quickly grew. colonial empire in decline, the Spanish otter pelts. This news particularly excited fur traders; Cook’s maps and observations helped open up the Pacific Coast to further Early European traders arriving at a Nootkan Village. trade and exploration. Unfortunately, Cook, didn’t see the results of his findings: he had been killed in the Hawaiian Islands in February, 1779. In 1785, British Captain James Hanna from China in the Harmon became the first commercial fur trader to arrive in Noot- ka, the first of hundreds who would make their way to the West Coast as a result of the published accounts of Cook’s voyage. Hanna’s second trip, on the Sea Otter, was not so successful because he had been beaten there by the Captain Cook and the Enterprise which had bought up all the skins. On departing, the owner of the vessels left John Mackay with Maquinna 19 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III the nootka sounder
Photo: Neil Havers • Story: Alberto Girotto JOHN JEWITT White Slave of Chief Maquinna
On March 22, 1803 English blacksmith John Jewitt was working at his forge below decks on the Boston, a US based trading vessel anchored near Nootka, not knowing that this skill would save his life.
seat of Maquinna himself and had nearly killed him; a Spaniard had shot his friend chief Callicum who was protesting the Spanish occupation; Captain Salter had roundly abused and demeaned Maquinna for breaking the lock on a gun Salter had given the Chief as a present. This last insult proved too much to bear. As slaves carrying wood and doing other menial tasks, Jewitt and Thompson had endeared themselves to their master by making much-coveted daggers and the art of the load whaling harpoons for him. The two even The MV Uchuck III has been moving cargo participated in a Nootka raid on another tribe and for their part in the victory were for over 60 years. Today, it is a highlight themselves awarded slaves of their own. experience for our guests. Maquinna also gave Jewitt a native woman as a wife with whom he fathered a son. At first you might think there isn’t much other side to create the lateral movement Eventually, after his being over two years to moving cargo, but there is an art to it. required for moving cargo. Though this in captivity, a long-awaited ship arrived As on any given day, Jewitt heard The Kyuquot trip for example, is always process is efficient, very few ships in the and forced Jewitt to use all his guile and Maquinna and his warriors board the ship, our busiest trip for cargo. As we do this modern era use this loading system for car- tack to formulate a safe escape. but paid little attention to their arrival trip once a week our customers count on go. With the union purchase system the dismantled their fort at Nootka, and thus On Jewitt’s departure Maquinna shook because in the past ten days since the ship us to get their freight to them in a timely MV Uchuck can lift up to 10,000 lbs on gave the British sovereignty over the area. him warmly by the hand and, as Jewitt had anchored off this part of Vancouver fashion and in good order. any one lift. For twenty years the Nootka people and later wrote, “ with much emotion, while the Island’s west coast the friendly Nootka had Although the Uchuck is 140’ in length In general, freight that is long or cum- Friendly Cove had been the centre of tears trickled down his cheeks, he bade me frequently visited for purposes of trade. there is only so much room for cargo. bersome goes on deck. The remaining car- Pacific coastal trade. Maquinna had farewell and stepped into his canoe, which However, an unusual commotion this Everything has to fit and be organised for go goes below into our cargo hold where become one of the most powerful and immediately paddled him on shore.” time sent Jewitt rushing above deck where loading and off-loading in an orderly fashion it can be stacked and secured for trans- famous of the Northwest Coastal chiefs. Back in civilization Jewitt published his he was clobbered on the head by a cudgel. to accommodate the many stops we make portation. Perishable items, such as dairy Despite European influences, the culture story. Based on the diary he had kept of his Recovering, he was horrified at seeing the on our routes. This process is what we call products, meat and produce must be hand of Maquinna’s people had changed very experiences as a slave, it included observa- head of Captain Salter as well as the heads the “Art of the Load”. stowed into freezer and cooler units also little, although they had come to rely on tions on Nootkan life and customs. These his twenty-five ship-mates “arranged in a The Mate onboard is in charge of the located in the hold. the goods obtained through the fur trade. became the basis for much of our present line” on the deck. loading process and generally has the final The mate primarily runs the cargo Nevertheless, despite the changes there knowledge about native life on the west Jewitt feared joining his unfortunate decision on where and how the cargo is winches onboard the MV Uchuck III was no lack of controversy. In 1803, the coast prior to the arrival of the white man. ship-mates, but because Maquinna had stored (below and on-deck) prior to sailing. and has to consider the different shapes, Boston under Captain Salter was anchored He describes their class system: rituals, the recognized his usefulness as the met- If the Captain is concerned with the way weights and sizes during the loading process. some three kilometres up the inlet from potlatches, clothing, artwork, food gathering al worker and that of sail-maker John any freight has been loaded he will over- When the ship leaves port it must be trim; Friendly Cove. After quarreling with Cap- techniques, the inter-tribal diplomacy and Thompson, he spared the two of them but rule the Mate. More often than not, this is meaning not overweight or loaded heavier tain Salter, Maquinna led an assault and the warfare. He also depicts Maquinna made them his slaves. not the case. to either the port or starboard side. killed all but two of the crew. One of as a kind and merciful man despite the Maquinna’s unexpected, and uncharac- Prior to loading, the Mate reviews the Some of the cargo you will generally see them was a sailmaker named Thompson great Chief’s threatening to kill him on teristic attack on the Boston had been the cargo and paperwork onboard, where it is transported includes groceries, propane, and the other was John Jewitt, a metal more than one occasion. result of years of insults perpetrated by going and how much of it. From there, a lube oils, wire, fish feed, building materials, worker. Both became Maquinna’s slaves for Since its first publication in 1815, his a variety of Europeans visiting Friendly cargo plan is discussed between the Mate, shellfish, and various parts and furniture to nearly three years, until rescued by Captain story has gone through 23 editions in Cove. Deckhand and dock staff and the loading name a few. The oddest cargo ever shipped Hill of the brig ‘Lydia’ out of Boston. a variety of languages and is currently One had lighted gunpowder under the begins. onboard; portable toilets (full), beehives, a After being liberated Jewitt published a available as White Slaves of Maquinna. The winches or cranes on the MV phone booth, crew cab trucks. story about his experiences. Uchuck III are union purchase in config- The MV Uchuck III leaves port with By the early 1800’s, with the decline of uration where the operator runs two ca- roughly 60-70 tons of cargo and makes that important fur trade, Nootka Sound bles from two electric motors; one on the between 8-12 stops, depending on the faded into obscurity. With the sea otters port and one on the starboard side of route. Our stops include logging camps, nearly wiped out, even more drastic changes the vessel. The operator raises the cable fish farms, fish lodges, and the communities would occur with the coming of perma- on one side and lowers the cable on the of Tahsis, Esperanza, and Kyuquot. nent settlements on the West Coast. Never- theless, the profusion of Spanish names on the map of B.C.’s coast will always remind travelers of the coast’s early international CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE history.
Awesome way to experience the annual re-fit. Soo cool, observing wild Wild Coast of Vancouver Island live and sailing past places we knew (eg. Tofino, Ucluelet, West Coast trail My wife Emilie and I are so fortunate to etc.) The crew was no disappointment, have sailed on the Uchuck III on three again, super friendly and accommo- separate occasions. The first time we dating. hiked the rugged Nootka Trail flying to We felt like part of the family, especial- Louie Bay and hiking back to Friend- ly at the social at Sechart Lodge, sing- ly Cove, where the Uchuck crew wel- ing songs and playing bean bag toss comed us aboard for the ride back to etc. And I have the picture to proof my Gold River. little stint on keeping the good ship on The next adventure took us to a steady course.... Kayuquot, another superb trip with We could go on and on.... sure hope such a friendly crew. we’ll be able to sail with you again! This spring we were invited to accom- Heinz - Chilliwack, BC pany the Uchuck III to Victoria for her Reviewed September 23, 2016 20 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 The MV Uchuck III
Article: David. E Young •Photo: Neil Havers
The 140’ MV Uchuck III can move along at twelve knots, carrying up to 100 passengers and 70 tons of general freight.
Photo: Julie Schimunek The mv uchuck III On February 6, 1946, Esson Young and George McCandless bought the M.V. Uchuck I from Richard Porritt and formed the Barkley Sound Transportation Co. Ltd. to replace an existing shipping service started in the 1930s.
The Uchuck I, built in 1941 in Coal the West Vancouver #6 of the ferry fleet. It Harbour, Vancouver, had replaced the orig- transported foot passengers between 14th inal Uchuck and in those days the second Street in West Vancouver across to Vancouver vessel in a line was given the #1 designation. before the Lion’s Gate Bridge completion in Four-cylinder Caterpillar diesels 1938. powered the 70-foot long vessel carrying 64 The company hired Port Alberni Ship- passengers, and about nine tons of car- yard, Alberni Engineering, Bailey Electric go at a speed of ten knots. In 1946, three as well as Ormand Plumbing to convert scheduled trips a week left Port Alberni the West Vancouver #6 from a ferry to a for Bamfield, stopping at Franklin River, small coaster. When completed and able to Kildonan and the south shore of Barkley carry 100 passengers, the 109 foot vessel, Sound before crossing the twenty miles of with it’s Atlas Imperial 200 h.p. direct re- open water at its mouth to Ucluelet, and versing diesel, developed a service speed of returning home along the north side of 10 knots. Alberni Inlet. Amid the general growth of the region, Traffic so increased that in 1948 the the Federal Government began building a company purchased a second vessel, the radar station at Tofino Airport and the two Uchuck II, which allowed for separate vessels were stretched to their limit trans- schedules to Bamfield and Ucluelet porting people and supplies. serving each with a different vessel on It soon became evident that more ships alternate days. The second vessel had been would be needed, therefor in late 1951 the built by Vancouver’s Wallace Yard in 1925 Company bought the hull of a Yard Mine Passengers aboard the MV Uchuck III are welcome to visit the wheelhouse. for the Municipality of West Vancouver as Sweeper, now the Uchuck III. Captain Spencer Larsen
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Government bought the Uchuck II which stopped water leakage, the killer of wood- after being converted, became the Sointula en vessels. All interior spaces were refur- Queen and ran children from Sointula bished and refinished. Today, the Uchuck and Alert Bay to Port McNeill until July of III is in better condition than ever. 1973. In 1982 the service expanded to include Changes were coming, in 1979 the ship- Kyuquot Sound. The B.C. Ferry Corpora- ping company itself changed hands when tion, a new charterer, wanted to combine Dave Young and Walt Winkler bought the two subsidized runs by eliminating the shares of George McCandless, the survivor Fair Harbour to Kyuquot service. of the original partnership. In 1980 the This arrangement worked out well: the Senior Surveyor of Canadian Steamship chartering corporation paid less in total Inspection advised that he would soon but more to Nootka Sound Service, and have difficulty certifying the Uchuck III to thus eased the strain of the early ‘80s reces- carry passengers and that thought should sion which coincided with the rebuilding. be given to acquiring another vessel. In 1994 the company changed hands MV Uchuck I shown towing the hull of the future MV Uchuck III. With nothing available in North America again with Dave Young and Walt Winkler that could be dropped into place, with the stepping out. Fred and Sean Mather and A Vancouver dockyard had stripped Sound in March, 1960, to begin the first cost of refitting an older vessel too great, Alberto Girotto bought the company. the vessel of its mine sweeping equip- scheduled run made possible by a three and with the cost of a new vessel out of In 2016 The Uchuck added a welded ment after it had arrived in 1948, and mile link built by the government. This the question, the Company decided to go canopy above the upper passenger deck of in 1951 the Uchuck 1 went to Vancou- joined the roads of two forest company with the “devil it knew”, and embarked on the ship to hold a tarp that was made espe- ver to tow the hull and superstructure systems and thus provided access to the a twelve-year rebuilding program. In cially to shelter passengers from rain and of the mine-sweeper to Port Alberni. head of Muchalat Arm from Campbell Riv- consultation with Canadian Steamship In- too much sun. The conversion mirrored that done on er. spection, the upgrading of the Uchuck III At the end of the 2016 season Alberto the Uchuck II but became complicated At this time Nootka Sound and adjoin- took place at her annual refits and Girotto left the company after 22 years to when finding parts became more and ing arms and inlets were home to Tahsis inspection periods so as not to interfere pursue other endeavors. more difficult, but luckily, Victoria’s Cap- Sawmill (started by the Gibson Brothers in with scheduling. Today the MV Uchuck III loads cargo for ital Iron Works broke up old ships and the late 1930s), an old shutdown mine at The vessel received new hull planking logging camps, fish farms and communi- sold off parts. Zeballos, a Mission Hospital at Esperanza, above the waterline and on the main deck, ties in Nootka and Kyuquot Sound. Year Mast derricks and life boats came and a few small logging operations plus a new engines, winches, wiring and elec- round they provide passenger service, from the CPR Princess Mary, engine larger one at Gold River. tronics. Very modern castings effectively accommodating traveling tourists wishing room telegraph and steering came At first traffic remained predictably to explore this historic area. Chief Engineer Frank Crowther from the Princess Victoria (a River light, but slowly the new service caught Clyde vessel) that had sailed around hold and traffic increased. Though the Cape Horn in 1904, cargo winches Uchuck III finished her last run in Barkley from the Princess of Alberni, and other Sound on June 10, 1960, the service did bits and pieces from twenty or so other not end. ships. Two former employees of the Compa- The main engines, two 500 h.p. ny, Dick McMinn and John Monrufet, 8-268A Cleveland Diesels came from a continued it by chartering the Uchuck 1 for US Navy Sub Chaser. a time, and then chartering and later buy- Upon completion the Uchuck III ing the M.V. Lady Rose. They operated it could move along at twelve knots, and for the next 25 years before selling out to carry up to 100 day-passengers and one of their employees, Brooke George. 70 tons of general cargo including Since 2008 the company has been owned three or four cars. by Mike Serrell. On August 1, 1955 the M.V. Uchuck Murray Marine Services of Alert Bay III went into service on the Ucluelet run, chartered the underused Uchuck II to run the Uchuck II moved to the Bamfield from Kelsey Bay to Port McNeill, Beaver run, and the Uchuck I was laid up and Cove, Alert Bay and Sointula, replacing the sold the following year. By the 1950s Lady Rose which moved down to Barkely roads began to come into some West Coast Sound. communities and when logging roads In 1961 the Uchuck II returned to Port on either side of the Island Mountains Alberni and for the next four years the connected such coastal communities as vessels alternated in Nootka Sound, the Ucluelet and Tofino with Port Alberni, Uchuck III in the summer when traffic was Uchuck traffic dropped dramatically. heavy, and the Uchuck II in winter when The Uchuck II moved to Nootka traffic was lighter. In 1966 the Provincial
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an intense maritime fur trade which lasted from the 1700’s until the early 1900’s. CALIFORNIA Sea otters were legally protected in 1911, with less than 2000 sea otters SEA LION remaining throughout their range. The last The California Sea Lion occurs from Baja known otter to inhabit British Columbian California to Alaska. This playful, noisy, waters was shot off of Grassy Island, near exuberant, quick learner is the “trained Kyuquot, in 1929. seal” of the circus. It is highly adaptable to Sea otters were re-introduced to any surrounding and use a variety of hab- British Columbia from 1969 to 1972. A itats. When resting on rocks or beaches total of 89 sea otters, captured in Alaska, they point their noses skyward and may be were released in the Bunsby Islands, just seen laying atop one another. When at sea northwest of Kyuquot. The population has they raft together, playing and leaping clear grown at a rate of about 19% per year. In of the surface. Their long fore flippers 1995, there were at least 1450 sea otters enable them to make powerful strokes along the west coast of Vancouver Island, while swimming and they may reach Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III is a great way many of which live within the area the speeds of 25 mph. They are v e r y vocal to see marine wildlife in their natural habitat. Uchuck travels. and bark like dogs; the pups have a bleat- So keep your eyes peeled... these engag- like call. The California Sea Lion prey Sea otters are fairly social animals, so it ing animals, which are surprisingly com- on schooling fish, rockfish, squid, flatfish, is not uncommon to see a group, or raft, of mon along the Uchuck’s route, are actually hake, lamprey, dogfish and salmon. SEA OTTER up to 100 male or female sea otters. one of Canada’s rarest marine mammals. Sea otters are the smallest of marine Sea otters feed on invertebrates, animals mammals. A fully grown sea otter is the such as snails, clams, octopus, crabs, DOLPHIN size of a German Shepherd dog, and can mussels and sea urchins. Sea urchins are Pacific White-sided Dolphins have a dark weigh up to 45 kg. grazers, and eat kelp. Sea urchins can grey or black back broken by white or light Sea otters depend upon a thick fur coat devour entire kelp forests, creating areas grey stripes along the flank characterizing and a high body temperature to stay warm devoid of seaweed, and are called this dolphins colouring. The beak, front in their chilly ocean environment. They “urchin barrens”. edge of dorsal fin, flippers and flukes are have the thickest fur of any mammal, up to By eating urchins, sea dark; the belly white. 160,000 hairs per square cm. To maintain otters increase the abundance This fast, powerful swimmer loves to their high body temperature, sea otters eat of kelp, which increases near bow ride and surf; they often leap and up to 1/4 of their weight in food each day. shore productivity and pro- somersault. They are nearly always found Sea otters are often confused with their vides an important habitat in groups of less than 50 animals. Prima- smaller cousin, the river otter, which de- and nursery area for many ry foodstuff is squid and small fish. This spite the name, are often found in the ma- species of fish. When sea animal is considered common and not en- rine environment. You may see river otters otters were hunted to extinc- dangered. running along rocky shores or snoozing on tion on our coast, the near docks. shore ecosystem was likely Female sea otters bear a single pup, altered in a dramatic manner. usually in early spring. The pup is normally Sea otters were once common born at sea and remains with its mother for throughout coastal areas of the about 6 months. The males are not north Pacific, ranging from north- involved in raising the young. ern Mexico to Northern Japan. They were hunted to the brink of extinction, in
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Humpbacks travel the waterways KILLER WHALE SALMON in an around Nootka Sound (ORCA) Although you can’t see them from the and Kyuquot Sound. surface these fish have been the lifeblood of The killer whale is the largest dolphin; First Nations people for centuries and is a a shiny, black creature with white patch- favoured draw for sportfishers in the sum- es above and behind each eye, on the chin mer and fall as the salmon migrate to fresh and throat extending along the belly. The water after four years in the open ocean. body is robust and powerful with a blunt, Pink, Coho, Chinook and Chum make round head and slight beak. The male aver- up the four salmon species that thrive on ages 27 feet and weighs up to 11 tons; the the West Coast. The fall migration brings female 23 feet, 8 tons. millions of salmon up Nootka Sound to The orca is an extremely fast swimmer, make their way home to the rivers and exceeding speeds of 30 mph, it spyhops creeks they were spawned in after living and breaches often, making it a wonder hundreds or up to a thousand miles away for whale watchers. Its blow is up to 10 in the open Pacific Ocean. feet high and often has a loud, explosive The waterways around Friendly Cove sound. are a popular salmon fishing destination. This intelligent creature remains in a fam- ily pod of 5 to 20 for all of its life. They will eat anything that swims or floats (except GRIZZLY BEAR humans) including seabirds, turtles, other are not native to Vancouver Island but they cetaceans (including great whales), seals, are nearby. They are found all along BCs sea lions, all types of fish and squid. The Northwest Coast. Most notably, Knight BALD EAGLE HUMPBACK WHALE orca has 3 basic sound types including a Inlet, is home to Glendale Cove which click, whistle and a scream. boasts one of the largest concentration This large eagle is a blackish colour with This whale is black with white patches A population of 260 killer whales of grizzly bears in British Columbia. The a white head and tail and a heavy yellow on the flippers, bottom surface of the tail frequent the waters of the BC coast. They cove offers nutrient rich sedge grass in the bill. The call is a squeaky cackling with flukes and body. Males average 47 feet; fe- are listed as not threatened but spring and early summer, an abundance thin squeals. Look for aeries (eagle nests) males, 49 feet. Weight ranges from 25-45 reduced salmon stocks may be affecting of berries in the late summer and fall, and in tall Douglas Fir snags. These aeries are 4’ tons. The head is flattened and the flippers the growth of northwest populations. of course, the large run of salmon up the to 5’ in diameter and can weigh up to a ton are the biggest of any species. Glendale River which is the bears’ staple or more. Bald Eagles mate for life and nests They are highly acrobatic animals who diet before hibernating for the winter. Wil- can be used for over 30 years. This bird is breach repeatedly and have a spectacu- derness tour operators can whisk you into primarily a fish eater but also eats carrion lar blow of 10-13 feet ending in a beau- the area to witness this amazing site. and crippled waterfowl. tiful haze of spray. They feed on krill and schooling fish such as herring, mackerel and cod. The humpback is usually found in small groups but have been known to be The resident Grizzly bear as large as 200. population in Glendale Humpback Whales mate every 2+ years Cove (Knight Inlet), and after a year’s gestation period a 15 flourish on the abundance foot, 2 ton calf is born. Due to commercial of berries, sedge grass and whaling, less than 2000 of these whales the fall migration of Coho are found in the northern Pacific. Now Salmon. an endangered and protected species, the numbers are slowly increasing.
BLACK BEAR The black bear is a bulky and thickset mammal. Approximately 150 cm long and with a height at the shoulder that varies from 100 to 120 cm, an adult black bear A black bear has feet that are well furred logs when searching for food. has a moderate-sized head with a rather on which it can walk with the entire bottom The normal colour is black with a straight facial profile and a tapered nose portion of the foot touching the ground. brownish muzzle and frequently a white with long nostrils. The ears are rounded They are very strong and can be seen dig- patch below the throat or across the chest. and the eyes small. The tail is very short ging along the shoreline turning over boul- and inconspicuous. ders and tearing out roots, stumps, and old
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GOLD RIVER
Gold River is located at the west end of Highway 28, a scenic one hour drive from Campbell River. Many visitors use it as a KYUQUOT ADVENTURE cruise base for exploring the sur- rounding wilderness and rainforest trails, accessing the Nootka Trail, or as a gateway to Nootka Sound.
The Municipal Wharf at Gold River is home port to the MV Uchuck III, Air Nootka seaplane service, and the launch point for sportsfishing enthusiasts. Gold panning attracted Chinese miners into the traditional territory of the Mowachaht and Muchalaht peoples in the 1860s, and the name Gold River first appeared on maps in 1871. In the early 1960s the Tahsis company logged at the mouth of the river. In 1964 they began building a 750 ton-a- day bleached kraft pulp mill there, because of the flat delta land, the deep-sea access for ocean-going freighters, and the steady source of water. Upon arrival in Kyuquot guests depart to their lodging in style! Story: Neil Havers • Photo: Julie Schimunek The Company also selected a site eight A trip aboard the MV Uchuck III gives visitors Heading out from Gold River guests settle in on the top deck to take in the scenery of the miles east of the mill on which to build a glimpse into a unique, maritime way of life. inlet and its rugged forested cliff faces that plunge into the sea as the MV Uchuck III heads a town to service the needs of the mill up Muchalat inlet. Pods of kayakers hug the shorelines, eagles cruise overhead, diving and in 1965 Gold River, a resource-based The coves and inlets of the rugged northwest coast of Vancouver Island are home to down to grab fish close to the surface. Cameras are working overtime. community appeared; it was Canada’s first remote logging camps, fishing resorts, fish farms and coastal communities; all of which The MV Uchuck III continues up Tahsis Inlet (home to colonies of inquisitive sea otters) all-electric town, and the first in Canada and Esperanza Inlet, dropping off supplies and at times, kayakers along the way. At this have little or no road access. These outposts rely on Nootka Sound Service’s MV Uchuck with underground wiring. Incorporated in point it has been smooth sailing in relatively calm waters. Leaving Esperanza Inlet it’s open- III as a critical lifeline. The MV Uchuck III delivers a variety of freight including groceries, 1965 as a District, it re-incorporated itself ocean cruising to the remote village of Kyuquot for an overnight stay. Humpback and Killer fish farm feed, fuel and more to remote locations in Nootka Sound, Esperanza Inlet and in 1972 as the Village Municipality of Gold Kyuquot Sound on a weekly basis. Whales can be spotted at times in these waters as well as a variety of sea birds, eagles and sea otter colonies. This is a good time to hunker down in the Galley with a good book or River. The MV Uchuck III is a 140’ wooden hulled vessel built in 1942 as an American Mine- In the late 1980s, the mill added a paper sweeper and has been navigating Vancouver Island’s west coast for over 50 years, delivering go topside to view the sights. manufacturing component, thus creating a cargo and passengers to remote destinations. This historic vessel has been carefully recon- Kyuquot is a truly remote maritime village. Raised boardwalks and trails hug the shore- short-term building boom and increasing ditioned with a comfortable wood-finished lounge, coffee shop and spacious seating on the line of small islands and rocky outcrops allowing for access to small cabins and docks open-air upper deck - the perfect front-row seats to Vancouver Island’s rugged West Coast. along the rocky, moss covered shoreline. Towering Douglas fir and Cedar trees create anemployment. However, newsprint prices The Kyuquot Adventure Cruise departs every Thursday from Gold River to it’s final impressive backdrop. The misty evening atmosphere adds to the mystique of the Sound. soon collapsed amid a glut of new destination of Kyuquot, returning to Gold River on Friday. Guests aboard the MV Uchuck Returning the next day, following the same route, guests continue to enjoy basking in supply, the cost of wood chips increased, III enjoy watching the crew deftly moor the 140’ vessel up against docks in remote coves the natural beauty of the west coast. This is a time to be still. Time to let your mind wander and high interest rates proved so crippling along the coast. At times, with high winds and running tides this can be a very challenging while enjoying the stunning scenery. Time to read a good book, take incredible photos that in 1993 paper production shut down. or simply sit back and really catch up on things with your partner, friends or new-found maneuver. Once secured, the crew offload cargo from the hold using a union purchase In 1998 the original mill ceased operations friends on board. Gold River may be the final destination but it will surely be the beginning crane system to get it on the dock. permanently. The real highlight is the voyage itself as stunning remote maritime scenery is revealed of your love affair with BC’s Wild West Coast. as the vessel navigates the inlets of Nootka Sound, Esperanza Inlet and Kyuquot Sound.
CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE Flynn’s Cove Cabins the northwest corner of Nootka Island
A totally amazing experience Smooth wet launch This adventure took us from Gold River for kayaking! up the coast to Kyuquot (for an over- We went on board the Uchuck III night). The scenery is mind blowing, and spent a great day cruising up the on board food is superb, the crew to Kyuquot, visiting 4-5 stops where were exceptional! the crew delivered cargo. After wet Watching the crew handle all the launching we spent an enjoyable time goods that were to be on or off load- kayaking the area. 8 days later we ed was a treat in itself. Even at their were picked up again by the crew of busiest times, they had time to keep the Uchuck. Both launch and pick up us informed about what was going on were so smooth, no bumps at all! The and were more than happy to answer crew was extremely personable and all our questions . helped make our time aboard lots of fun. The galley chili is to die for! Would The crew... from the deck hand, to the definitely do it again! first mate, to the captain... it was a treat to sail with you. Gord - Red Deer, Alberta Reviewed August 8, 2017 I would highly recommend this 2 day cruise... What a special way to the West Coast of Vancouver Island!!! Larry - Deep River, Ontario Reviewed September 17, 2017 www.nootka.ca 25 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III visiting gold river
GOLD RIVER Photo courtesy Air Nootka
Gold River is located at the west end of Highway 28, a scenic one hour drive from Campbell River. Many visitors use it as a base for exploring the sur- rounding wilderness and rainforest trails, accessing the Nootka Trail, or as a gateway to Nootka Sound.
The Municipal Wharf at Gold River is home port to the MV Uchuck III, Air Nootka seaplane service, and the launch point for sportsfishing enthusiasts. As working families moved away, many of the houses in the town Gold panning attracted Chinese miners into were sold at auction- some to Europeans. Since then Gold River has the traditional territory of the Mowachaht reinvented itself as a west coast tourism hub. and Muchalaht peoples in the 1860s, and Recently the focus of the local economy has diversified to include the name Gold River first appeared on adventure tourism, capitalizing on the incredible natural surroundings maps in 1871. of the village and region. In the early 1960s the Tahsis Each year, hundreds of new visitors discover why this region is company logged at the mouth of the river. considered “The Cave Capital of Canada”. The Upana Caves are In 1964 they began building a 750 ton-a- easily accessible and offer novices a safe, self-guided introduction day bleached kraft pulp mill there, because to the sport of spelunking. If you would rather get your exercise of the flat delta land, the deep-sea access above ground, choose from rock climbing at Crest Creek Crags, for ocean-going freighters, and the steady mountain biking on one of the most challenging trail systems in source of water. Western Canada, or hike one of our many picturesque trails. The Company also selected a site eight For wildlife viewing opportunities, take a prearranged tour of miles east of the mill on which to build the Conuma Hatchery located 36.5 km past the Gold River Info a town to service the needs of the mill Centre to watch them spawning; visit the Conuma River Estuary and in 1965 Gold River, a resource-based via the Moutcha Bay access road to catch a glimpse of black bear, elk community appeared; it was Canada’s first or black-tailed deer. all-electric town, and the first in Canada with underground wiring. Incorporated in Gold River continues to impress fisherman with 1965 as a District, it re-incorporated itself in 1972 as the Village Municipality of Gold consistently large and lengthy runs of Chinook, River. Coho, Sockeye and Chum Salmon. Fisher men In the late 1980s, the mill added a paper and women can enjoy sheltered, relaxed fishing in the manufacturing component, thus creating a short-term building boom and increasing protected waters of Nootka Sound or they can venture employment. However, newsprint prices off-shore to enjoy a true wild west coast fishing or marine soon collapsed amid a glut of new wildlife adventure. supply, the cost of wood chips increased, and high interest rates proved so crippling Visitors to Gold River have a number of choices for accommodation in hotels and B&B’s that in 1993 paper production shut down. as well as great restaurants to enjoy and galleries that exhibit the work of local artists. Other In 1998 the original mill ceased operations amenities include a Visitor Center, two campgrounds, aquatic and community centre, permanently. golf course, service stations, liquor store, post office, drug store as well as other shopping opportunities. Continued on page 20. Photo: Neil Havers Contact us for all your Central and Campbell River: 250-923-2111 Gold River: 250-283-7515 North Vancouver Island Real Estate... Comox Valley: 236-269-2100
PORT HARDY Janet Scotland Port McNeill Managing Broker, Owner 250-287-6985 Winter Port Harbour Alice Woss CAMPBELL RIVER • Residential • Commercial Zeballos Tahsis
Mount • Recreational • Property Management Washington COMOX GOLD COURTENAY RIVER Call any member of our sales team for assistance View all Gold River in the Gold River, Campbell River or Courtenay areas! listings here: www.goldriverrealty.ca [email protected] View all Tahsis listings here: www.tahsisrealestate.ca www.northislandrealestate.ca Independently owned and operated. Victoria TF: 1-888-771-2111 Gold River Realty Ltd., since 1982. 26 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 visiting gold river
Photos: Neil Havers
Gold River is home port for Get West Adventure Cruises and the MV Uchuck III. It is also the depar- ture point for salmon fishing, kayak excursions and scenic aerial flights over Nootka Sound.
Within the community there are baseball fields, basketball and tennis courts, play- grounds, churches and incredible hiking and biking trails. So for a day trip or a longer excursion check out Gold River and the surrounding area. Consider also a visit to Antler THE ARTISTS OF GOLD RIVER Lake, Star Lake and Scout Lake. While in Gold River we invite you to discover the creative and diverse artwork that is The Gold River is famous for steelhead and salmon fishing. This is a fly fisherman’s inspired by the natural beauty and history of our area. As you enter town you will notice paradise. It it also a great river to explore by kayak and for swimming. For more information contact the a large carved boot which commemorates the ‘Great Walk” from Gold River to Tahsis. The Gold River Visitor Centre: 250-283-2418 creator, Lee Yateman, using a chainsaw, skillfully carves anything from boots to bears. He has carved custom items such as turtles, monkeys and a life size miner. You can view more [email protected] www.goldriver.ca of his work at www.gogetlee.com. Clayworks Café & Gallery (and the studio of North Island Clayworks) is located on Visitor Centre the corner of Muchalat and Industrial Park Place, just over the Gold River on your way to Open Weekends ~ May 18 - June 30 (Fri, Sat, Sun) the waterfront. The artists display and sell their pottery throughout the Cafe. Their studio Open Daily ~ July 1 - September 2, 2018 is located next door and they offer tours to visitors who are interested in seeing a demon- Tel: 250-283-2418 stration at the potter’s wheel. Their gallery also supports the work of other local artists in the form of photography, paintings, cards, cranberry preserves and wood turning. You may O Season Phone: 250-283-2202 find the perfect gift or a keepsake of your trip to Gold River at Clayworks Café & Gallery. Visit their website at www.clayworkscafe.com.or like them on Facebook. Public Art A lot adjacent to the post office in the Village Square Plaza features local artists works such as jewelry, paintings, quilts, preserves as well as metal and wood artwork. The Chamber of Commerce also has some local artwork for sale. Look for “the Vault” in the same plaza across from the drug store. www.villageofgoldriver.com Bill Maximick, a prominent West Coast marine artist resides in the Comox Valley. He has been painting images of Nootka Sound and the MV Uchuck III since his first commission in the early 1980s. To date he has created close to a dozen paintings of the Uchuck. Over Les Arbres Bed & Breakfast the years he would help out on board, taking trips to enable himself to photograph the west Nestled in the trees Coast he loves which is reflected in his many paintings. You can visit him in his gallery in Courtenay, BC or see his work at www.billmaximick.com.
Tom Rasmussen Owner / Operator If you are making the trip to Friendly Cove don’t miss the handcrafted work of local First Nations Artist Sanford Williams. In the summer months Sanford makes Friendly Cove Phone 1-250-283-7422 • Cell 1-250-203-4479 his home. Visit Sanford at the Cove and see him carving a mask or any other piece that he [email protected] may be working on. www.sanfordwilliams.com 541 Eagle Crescent, P.O. Box 1066 I first met Sanford Williams (shown above) over 20 years ago and photographed him holding Gold River, BC V0P 1G0 up a newly carved mask. Summer 2017 I met Sanford again at Friendly Cove and ‘lo and behold’... he was carving a mask on the same theme. He now makes his home in Hope, BC but comes back to Friendly Cove whenever he can to carve. - Neil Havers - Mountain view comfort
overlooking Gold River. OVERLOOKING Continental Breakfast GOLD RIVER Mountain Views Next door to Pub & Restaurant
Locally Owned & Operated Enjoy great food and a panoramic view deck. Frequent live entertainment, Big Screen TVs for sports and WIFI for connecting. Reservations: 1-800-989-3393 Tel: 778-724-4605 or 250-283-2277 Vancouver Island Beers On Tap! 397 Donner Court, Gold River [email protected] Box 335, 395 Donner Court, Gold River, B.C. V0P 1G0 Open Daily 250-283-7533. www.theridgeroadhouse.com 27 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III visiting gold river
Photo: Julie Schimunek
THE ARTISTS OF GOLD RIVER
While in Gold River we invite you to discover the creative and diverse artwork that is The Gold River is famous for steelhead and salmon fishing. This is a fly fisherman’s inspired by the natural beauty and history of our area. As you enter town you will notice paradise. It it also a great river to explore by kayak and for swimming. a large carved boot which commemorates the ‘Great Walk” from Gold River to Tahsis. The creator, Lee Yateman, using a chainsaw, skillfully carves anything from boots to bears. He has carved custom items such as turtles, monkeys and a life size miner. You can view more of his work at www.gogetlee.com. Clayworks Café & Gallery (and the studio of North Island Clayworks) is located on the corner of Muchalat and Industrial Park Place, just over the Gold River on your way to the waterfront. The artists display and sell their pottery throughout the Cafe. Their studio is located next door and they offer tours to visitors who are interested in seeing a demon- stration at the potter’s wheel. Their gallery also supports the work of other local artists in the form of photography, paintings, cards, cranberry preserves and wood turning. You may find the perfect gift or a keepsake of your trip to Gold River at Clayworks Café & Gallery. Visit their website at www.clayworkscafe.com.or like them on Facebook. Public Art A lot adjacent to the post office in the Village Square Plaza features local artists works such as jewelry, paintings, quilts, preserves as well as metal and wood artwork. The Chamber of Commerce also has some local artwork for sale. Look for “the Vault” in the same plaza across from the drug store. Bill Maximick, a prominent West Coast marine artist resides in the Comox Valley. He has been painting images of Nootka Sound and the MV Uchuck III since his first commission in the early 1980s. To date he has created close to a dozen paintings of the Uchuck. Over the years he would help out on board, taking trips to enable himself to photograph the west Coast he loves which is reflected in his many paintings. You can visit him in his gallery in Gold River Courtenay, BC or see his work at www.billmaximick.com. Golf & Country Club Enjoy a round of golf in a If you are making the trip to Friendly Cove don’t miss the handcrafted work of local First spectacular wilderness setting where eagles soar and deer Nations Artist Sanford Williams. In the summer months Sanford makes Friendly Cove roam the fairways. his home. Visit Sanford at the Cove and see him carving a mask or any other piece that he • Kitchen • Concession may be working on. www.sanfordwilliams.com • Licensed Lounge & Scenic Patio • Pro Shop equipped with power carts I first met Sanford Williams (shown above) over 20 years ago and photographed him holding pull carts, and club rentals up a newly carved mask. Summer 2017 I met Sanford again at Friendly Cove and ‘lo and For more information • 9 Holes: $28• 18 Holes: $39.50 behold’... he was carving a mask on the same theme. He now makes his home in Hope, BC but or to book a tee time... 250-283-7266 comes back to Friendly Cove whenever he can to carve. - Neil Havers -
OVERLOOKING GOLD RIVER
Locally Owned & Operated Enjoy great food and a panoramic view deck. Frequent live entertainment, Big Screen TVs for sports and WIFI for connecting. Vancouver Island Beers On Tap! 397 Donner Court, Gold River Open Daily 250-283-7533. www.theridgeroadhouse.com 28 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 visiting tahsis
Photo: Susan Felhouser Photo: Neil Havers Tahsis Tahsis means ‘Gateway’ or ‘Passage’ in the language of the Mowachaht First Nations people who have lived in the region for hundreds of years.
The Mowachaht maintained a permanent Tahsis has become known as the winter settlement in the protected inlet,and “Caving Capital of Canada” with its vast used a network of trails up the Tahsis and networks of caverns in nearby hills, Nimpkish River Valleys in order to cross including Thanksgiving Cave the longest the mountains and trade with the native in B.C. at 3.4 miles. The Village of Tahsis is a premier ecotourism destination with unparalleled outdoor recre- villages on the eastern side of Vancouver Black bears and eagles are especially ation, stunning coastal scenery and an historic town site. Tahsis offers an abundance of nature Island. plentiful in the fall around the townsite. activities for tourists and residents alike such as fishing, hiking, caving, wildlife viewing, diving Located in the heart of historic Nootka Drawn in by the Chinook and Coho and all manner of water sports. Sound, this area is becoming well known Salmon spawning in the Tahsis river, it for scuba diving, caving, sea kayaking, makes for great photo ops. hiking, bird watching and wildlife For those who want to experience the viewing; add in excellent salt water fishing wild Pacific coast at its most rugged, the and the opportunity to land some of the Nootka Trail offers a challenging hike largest salmon and halibut caught in B.C. comparable to the West Coast Trail, but Starting in May resident six gill sharks without the crowds or reservations. and their inquisitive juveniles are seen The exposed western coastline of Nootka regularly in 30 feet of water, right here in Island provides excellent conditions for ex- downtown Tahsis. pert kayakers and surfers seeking extreme sport. With waves arriving daily from Japan, it is known as a hot spot in the world wide surfing community. For those who prefer to explore the picturesque original townsite, there is a relaxing historical walking tour and newly established Museum depicting life as it was since the 1940s. Enjoy a leisurely stroll on the Tahsis Leiner Estuary Boardwalk Trail. The Annual Westview Marina Fishing Derby takes place the 3rd weekend of August with anglers competing for thou- sands of dollars in prizes. Past winners have hauled in Chinook salmon that tipped the scales at over 40 lbs. The starting point for your adventure is the “Tree to Sea Drive, The Road to Adventure.” Pick up your map at the Visitor Centre in Gold River! For more information: Village of Tahsis 250-934-6344 Along the route the MV Uchuck III delivers freight to fish farms, www.VillageofTahsis.com logging camps, remote resorts [email protected] and communities, including the Village of Tahsis. Photo: Paul Domansky
Tel. 250-934-6608 • susanfelhouserphotography.com • [email protected] 29 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III coastal communities
Zeballos Flanked by towering forest-cloaked mountains, Zeballos sits at the head of Zeballos Inlet, gateway to Nootka Sound,world-famous for salmon fishing and kayaking opportunities.
The inlet was named by Captain Alejandro and the rest of the spectacular northwest Malaspina in 1792 after one of his Pacific coast of Vancouver Island. lieutenants, Ciriaco Cevallos. Kayaks are available for rent for visitors Photo: Julie Schimunek The discovery of gold in Zeballos in the wanting to explore the estuary where kelp 1920s resulted in a massive influx of miners fronds sway in the waves. Kingfishers dart by and adventurers. The historic buildings in by as you drift in the sun while seals and sea the village are a living reminder of those frontier otters pop up and down checking your prog- KYUQUOT days. ress. Eagles soar overhead while great blue The small but informative Zeballos Heri- herons stalk through the tidal flats. Hump- Pronounced Ki-You-Kit tage Museum tells the tales of the gold rush back whales frequent the inlet as well. An archipelago of nine islands and the mainland make and the resulting boomtown with pictures A municipal dock can accommodate and artifacts. Shady boardwalks and walking oceangoing ships, with full facilities for rec- up Kyuquot, a village of 350... surely one of the most trails wind through the estuary and along the reational boaters and floatplanes, including unique on British Columbia’s coast. river, providing visitors with an opportunity coin operated showers. A Forestry Recreation to enjoy the native plants and wildlife of the site at Fair Harbour is ideally located for rainforest. continuing your adventures with explora- During the initial European contact period traditional winter home of the Kyuquot The Zeballos River estuary, a bird watcher’s tions of Tahsis and Amai Inlets or the beauti- in the 1780s, sea otter traders in search people. These two communities form the paradise, has been designated a Wetland ful ocean beaches of Rugged Point Provincial of pelts ventured into the Kyuquot Sound Village of Kyuquot. Reserve by the Ministry of the Environment Park. area to trade with the Kyuquot and Che- Today commercial fishing and the forest and the Nature Trust of British Columbia. For the more adventurous, Rugged Moun- cleset peoples. The rugged terrain and nu- industry remain the major employers, with With the river running through the center of tain and the slab in the Nomash are well- merous reefs, however, made Kyuquot tourism increasing in popularity. the village there’s not much need for a nature known to rock-climbing enthusiasts. Sound difficult to navigate and with the Kyuquot is a small village of 350 people channel on TV. Limestone erosion along the Quatsino extinction of the sea otter populations, on the mainland along with an archipela- During the salmon spawning season in the River has produced thousands of caves. Artlish Kyuquot Sound and Kyuquot soon fell go of nine islands that make up one of the fall, the river teems with fish. Bears and eagles Caves Provincial Park and Little Huson caves back into obscurity. most unique villages on the west coast. The that arrive to partake of the annual feast can can be accessed just off the road into Zeballos. In the mid-1850s, the lucrative seal fur original site of the First Nations people is be watched from the Sugarloaf Bridge. Trum- trade, and the harvest of fish oil, brought situated on the mainland. A short boat ride peter swans drift down the river, competing For more information: trade back into the Sound. Fur sealing takes you to Walters Island with it’s two with the seagulls for newly laid salmon eggs. Zeballos Village Office: 250-761-4229 schooners began making routine stops at dozen buildings and connecting board- Zeballos has become a hot spot for kayakers Zeballos Heritage Museum: 250-761-4070 Kyuquot’s fishing villages to take aboard walk - making it the central business dis- accessing Catala and Nuchatlitz provincial www.zeballos.com First Nations men as hunters, and the seal- trict.. marine parks, the islands of Kyuquot Sound ing industry grew until 1911 when it was With no streets, Kyuquot residents use outlawed in an attempt to protect the boats to access the Red Cross Outpost, the species from extinction. school, the post office, the fishing lodges Whaling replaced the sealing industry and stores around the various coves. and in 1908, the Pacific Whaling Company The connecting trail behind the Kyuquot constructed a whaling station on Cach- Inn and Walters Cove resort that leads to alot Inlet to process humpback and blue the boardwalk makes it a very pleasant whales into oil, fertilizer and meat. walk in the evening after dinner. Playful Despite only seasonal hunting, the sea otters are often spotted swimming in Kyuquot station processed 4,765 whales the harbour. There are small trails leading until poor markets and depleted whale to the wilder, less inhabited side of the stocks closed the station in 1925. This- island looking out onto the Pacific Ocean. caused many of the Norwegian and Tourism is slowly attracting more and Scandinavian whalers to turn to fishing for more people to this remote, very their livelihood. They and their families unique maritime village, and to its remained in Kyuquot Sound, many settling surrounding area, for sport fishing, kayak- in Walter’s Cove on the protected side of ing and enjoying outdoor adventures in an Walter’s Island, across from Houpsitas, the absolutely spectacular setting.
Remote Waterfront Accommodations available year round in the finest fishing and kayaking region of the world. We are located on the northwest Find your next outdoor adventure in Tahsis, coast of Vancouver Island in historic Walter’s Cove. Free sheltered moorage with cabin the heart of Nootka Sound: rental, comfortable, clean rooms, gently sloping beach waterfront, a short paddle to Bunsby Islands. Your Hosts: Eric & Nancy Gorbman 250-332-5959 or 206-852-4764 Your home in the wilderness... www.kyuquotinn.com [email protected] Kyuquot, BC, Canada V0P 1J0
30 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 Points of interest
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30 22 14 27 7 5 6 1 NOOTKA SOUND 12 18 9 10 Rich in history, the names of many of the 17 11 Islands and water ways reflect her colourful past. 16 8 M.V. 4 UCHUCK III 1) Golden Hinde Historians believe Francis Drake sighted this peak when he sailed the North Pacific in the “Golden Hind” in 1579. specifications 2) Juan Perez Commanded the first expedition verified to the North Pacific in 1774. He made it as far as Estevan Point.3) Estevan Point Length: 140 feet • Beam: 24 feet Esteban Jose Martinez was second Lieutenant on the “Santiago” 1774, the first Spanish expedition to the Northwest. He was the Commandant of the first Draught: 7 feet forward; 9 feet aft Spanish fort at Nootka, 1789. 4) Nootka Sound Discovered in 1778 by Captain Cook during his 3rd voyage. 5) Bligh Island William Bligh, Power: Two 8-268A Cleveland Diesels famous in connection with the “Bounty” mutiny, was Captain Cook’s navigating officer on the “Resolution”. 6) Gore Island John Gore, 1st Lieutenant driving 2 shafts through Joe’s gears. on Cook’s “Resolution”, brought the expedition home after the death of Cook and Clerke in Hawaii, 1779. 7) Cook Channel Captain James Cook was Speed: Cruising 12 knots the first British Navigator to enter Nootka Sound. 8) Discovery Point Named after the second ship of Cook’s last expedition. 9) Resolution Cove Fuel Consumption: 25 gallons/hour Named after Cook’s larger ship “Resolution”, which was repaired at this Cove in 1778. 10) Clerke Peninsula Charles Clerke, second in command of Cook’s Construction: Double planked wooden hull of fir 3” thick. Frames are last expedition. 11) Yuquot Chief Maquinna’s summer village (Friendly Cove). “Yuquot” means “Where the wind blows from all directions”. Yuquot is the laminated oak 3.5”; on 15” original Indian village at Friendly Cove; visited by numerous English, Spanish and American fur traders. 12) King Passage Named after James King, centers. 2nd Lieutenant on Cook’s “Resolution’ in 1778. 13) Strange Island James Strange of Bombay was an early fur trader, visiting Nootka Sound in 1786. 3 14) Hanna Channel Named after James Hanna, first of the maritime fur traders, visited Nootka in 1785 & 86. 15) Kendrick Arm Named 2 after an American fur trader who earned an unsavoury reputation in dealing with local natives. 16) Spanish Pilot Island Among the Spanish Naval Officers who explored the region were a number of pilots who were the early hydrographic surveyors of this coast. Several of their names were given to the islands in this group. 17) Maquinna Point Named in 1791 after Maquinna, Nootka Chief. 18) Saavedra Island Named after one of the Spanish Commandants at Nootka, 1793. 19) Argonaut Point Named after the British ship Argonaut”, seized by Spaniards at Nootka, 1789. 20) Princess Royal Point Named after the British sloop seized by Spaniards in Friendly Cove, 1789. Entered the Spanish Navy as “Princess Real”. Restored to its owners in 1791. 21) Galiano Bay Named after Galiano, an officer of Malaspina’s expedition, who commanded the “Sutil” visiting in 1792. 22) Eliza Passage Francisco Eliza was the Spanish Commandant (Port Eliza) sent in 1790 to expand the fort at Nootka after Martinez removal. 23) Valdez Bay Valdez was with Malaspina’s expedition and while in coastal waters commanded the “Mexicana” in 1792. 24) Bodega Island Captain Juan Francisco de la Bodega Quadra negoti- ated the terms of the Nootka Convention with Captain James Vancouver in 1792. 25) Esperanza Inlet Named after the first mate on the “Atrevida”, under the Command of Captain Malaspina in 1791. 26) Zeballos Inlet Named after a Spanish Lieutenant Ciriaco Cevellas, who explored with Captain Malaspina in 1791. 27) Atrevida Point Named after Captain Malaspina’s ship exploring the area in 1791. 28) Tlupana Inlet “Tlupana” was a Chief who lived at the head of this inlet. He was visited by George Vancouver in 1794. 29) Jewitt Cove Named after the survivor of the “Boston” who was captured at Marvinas Bay near Friendly Cove by Maquinna in 1803. 30) Boston Point Named after the American trading ship “Boston”, captured in 1803 by Maquinna. 31) Plumper Harbour The “Plumper” was an auxiliary steam sloop engaged 1857-1861 by Captain G.H. Richards in the survey of the British Colum coast. 32) CeePeeCee Canadian Packing Corporation built the fish reduction plant in 1926. 33) McBride Bay Arthur McBride reportedly built a fish reduction plant here, prior to sawmill construction in 1937. 34) Cachalot Site of an old whaling station and pilchard reduction plant, 1908-1926. 35) Chamiss Bay Site of an old pilchard reduction plant and present day logging camp of International Forest Products. 36) Markale Site of an old fish cannery. ______Aging totem poles often fall during winter wind storms. Once a totem is down that is where it remains to decay which can take hundreds of years. This fallen totem can be found at Friendly Cove, historical birthplace of British Columbia. Photo: Neil Havers 31 Cruising aboard the MV Uchuck III THE NOOTKA SOUNDER
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30 22 14 27 7 5 6 1 2018 Get West 12 18 9 10 17 11 16 8 Photo Contest 4 YOU COULD WIN A NOOTKA SOUND DAY CRUISE FOR TWO!
2017 Winners: Chris Kibble Above: David Cotton 2017 Winner: Elaine Hanson Guests aboard the MV Uchuck III take amazing
3 photos. why not send 2 us your best shots! The Winner of the 2018 Photo Contest will receive a FREE Nootka Sound Day Cruise 2017 Winner: Inge Riis McDonald for 2! The Top 5 photos of 2018 will also 2017 Winner: David Cotton earn a FREE Get West Souvenir teeshirt. Many of the photos gracing the pages of the Nootka Sounder are selected from photo submissions in 2017. We’d like to thank all of the photographers who participated. Categories include Scenery, Wildlife, the MV Uchuck III, Hiking and Kayaking. 2017 First Prize Winner: Elaine Hanson 2017 Winner: Inge Riis McDonald Submit photos to: [email protected]. NOTE: Submitted photos may be used in Get West promotional material. Please share your best shots on Social Media as well!
2017 Winner: Lynette McGeachie 2017 Winner: Paul Domansky 2017 Winner: Susan Felhouser 32 The Nootka Sounder ~ 2018 the nootka sounder
Tahsis, BC
WESTVIEW MARINA & LODGE Rest ~ Relax ~ Recharge Great Atmosphere ~ Waterfront Dining & Accommodations Margaritas on the Dock ~ Ice Cream ~ Evening Patio Fires Live Music on the Dock every Friday! Rock the Dock!
REMEMBER TO BRING LARGE COOLERS...
YOU’LL NEED THEM FISHING WITH US!
FULL SERVICE MARINA Service Is Our Guarantee! Accommodations Services Marina • Suites, houses, cabins and more • Coee Shop / Café • Fuel, Gas & Diesel • Grillhouse Restaurant • Free Wireless Internet • Tackle & Bait • Licensed Patio Pub • Gift Shop • Kayak Rentals • Laundry & Showers • Marine Mechanics • Moorage • Bring Your Own Boat BYOB • Eco Tours • Water Taxis & Fishing Charters SALMON, HALIBUT & TUNA FISHING CHARTERS & ALL INCLUSIVE PACKAGES (250) 934-7672 * www.westviewmarina.com