The ROMANCE of LEATHER AND ITS IMPORTANCE TO MANJ(JND OME of the most important dates in the .Many centuries of leather-making for shoes S l istory of mankind will never be known­ and clothes passed before the days of written tl:e most anyone can do is to guess about records came. 'We know that the them. ¥/hen did people first use fire? When was Centuries of Use ancients used leather for many salt first used? No one knows the answers. Nor purposes before history was re­ does anyone know when mankind first began to corded. The wandering tribes made tents of it make leather-undoubtedly one of the most im­ and used it for beds, carpets, armor and harness. portant things of use in the prehistoric civiliza­ No one knows v.hen they kamed that leather tions. "breathes" and water would keep fresh and cool Shoes and clothing may seem commonplace to in a leather bag- a discovery second only to the us today, for we take them as a matter of course, invention of the shoe in importance, for the tribe; and have had no experience of life without them. could now move away from the neighl:::c rh' c: · : But there was once upon a time a notable day a spring or a river bank. They cr;uld take· a ..... ..c:c~ when an inventor among a tribe of ancient men supply with them. Through many Farts c·i _\,:""' wrapped the skin of an animal around his sore and Africa water is so kept today; watublg-o a:-c bleeding foot bruised by stones or burned by the always made of leather as of old; and so are the J.ot desert sands, and so wore the first shoe. The "wineskins" or leather flagons of the desert ioy of that discovery was no doubt quickly com­ peoples, just as they were in the Old Testament nunicated to his fellows. With the protection times and earlier. This "breathing" quality of nd comfort of this device, men could wander leather is very valuable to us today, for it allows trther for their food, and no longer go hungry to the gradual evaporation of moisture, an important ed so often as in the past; they could hunt more reason for using it for shoes and other drticles of tsily over a comparatively vast range of terri­ clothing. The ancient pre-history people a:so 'ry; they could move quickly-no longer found leather valuable for making bow strings and 1thered by sore feet, or having to proceed cau­ shields for warfare, and strips of it were used in msly, picking their way over stones and thorns, fastening arrowheads to the shafts, and in mak­ rich was a great advantage over their enemies, ing various implements and weapons and orna­ imal and human. It has been well said that ments. At a somewhat later date, probably they ·ilization has advanced on foot, and that the made canoe-like boats of it, and crude drums, ll-shod have ever been the victors over the un­ used in calling the tribe together, as a means of ,d. That is easy to believe. communication, and for primitive ceremonial Copyright, 1937, by Ta:lller<>' Cotmcil of Am{~rica, New York, ~ Y 2 THE H.U .. ~ L E 0 F L E AT H E R music. Certain jungle tribes of Airi._a. ::t::d South ing pounded between large stones, are then put America have been found to ha\ e \ ery compli­ into water; applied to the inner side of the skin cated drum-tap codes of communication, and this for one day; and the hair having fallen off, the leather-telegraph probably extends iar back be­ skin is left for two or three days and the process is fore written history, and may ha\·e been used by completed." The Arabs, as one might imagine, most of the primitive races from which modern were famous artisans in saddlery. man is descended. The Hebrews are said to have been the first to In Genesis, iii, 21, we read: "Unto Adam and discover the value of oak-bark tanning, and thio also unto his wife did the Lord God make clothes method was as good as any dis­ Ancient covered until the introduction of, of skins and clothe them." And it is safe to say Tanners that leather for many centuries was the most modern tanning methods in Amer­ usual material for clothing. Articles of leather ica. Another ancient method was the "Shamoy­ more than thirty-three centuries old have bee11 ing" process--which is described in Homer's unearthed in Egyptian tombs and found to be still I had. In this process the pores of the hide arc in a perfect state of preservation. The earliest opened by repeated washings, with oil forcerl into records of human history all reveal that leather the pores by beating and rubbing while tr ~ hide was richly prized-it was often classed with gold is stretched on a frame or staked out. Tne soft and silver, ivory and gems and was given to kings leather called shamoy or chamois is t~.e result, and gods as tribute. The ancient Arabs used and much of the !<:ather clothing of dw antique leather extensively, and their recipe for making world was made of it. it has come down to us through the ages. "Th<: From the Talmud we learn that the Jewish skins are first put into flour and salt for three tanners of Babylon w<:re not allowed to put hides days, and are cleaned of all the fats and impurities into their vats on Fridays, as this would necessi­ of the inside. The stalks of the Chulga plant, be- tate working on the Sabbath. Tanning was not highly regarded by them as an occupation, for Rabbi Judah wrote: "A man cannot get along without a perfumer (barber) and without a tan­ ner. Happy is he whose art is of perfuming, and alas for him whose art is of tanning:" A legend of the ancient Greeks describes Zeus, the great god, wearing the aegis, a covering sup­ posed to have been the hide of the goat that suckled him. Other legends refer to the aegis as the shield Zeus carried, and Homer calls him th<: .-\.egis-bearer. The word aegis usually meant the leather coat or cuirass worn by the Greek ,;oldiers. It is interesting to note that the horns ',f the goat that suckled Zeus were considered the magic horns of plenty. In the earliest legends and later history, the Greeks are described as \\·earing leather helmets and shields in battle. (J\·id describes the warrior A.jax: · '.-\.jax, to shidd his ample breast, prm·ic!es se\·en lusty bulls, and tans their sturdy hides.·· The famous legend of the founding of Carthage tells how Queen Dido, when promised only a,; much land as could b<: LEATHER SANDALS FOUND IX EGY?TL\X TO:IIB (Courtesy of The },:[etropolitan Jfuso' •;: ..- .-1 r/i encompassed by the hi ::c oi a bull, cut the hide I M P 0 R T .-\. );" C E T 0 M A "t\ K I N D into a very thin continuous strip and was thus From the earliest dawn of history, leather was able to encircle land enough upon which to build most important for clothing. The only costume a strong fort. Even at that, it must have been of the ancient Aegeans was the an extraordinarily large bull! Ancient Shoes loin-cloth, except for high boots, The Greeks placed their tanneries outside the "probably made of leather," which I city walls, and the wet skins were often spread were worn by the men. Sandals were worn by out upon the ground for people to walk upon so both sexes. In the very early days of Egypt a as to soften them. Two classes of labor were em­ man of rank would be followed by a servant ployed, tanners and leather cutters, and the latte:r carrying a pair of sandals in case of need. This were considered artisans of the highest order. indicates how valued their shoes were, and prob­ Roman, Greek, Pompeiian and Egyptian tanners ably how expensive and rare. In later days, all used lime-water in dehairing the hides. They sandals and other types of shoes were in common were familiar with the scraping-knife and the use, but their importance was signified in the beam for completing the work, and oak-bark was court ceremonials when princes appeared before most commonly preferred in the actual tanning. the Pharaoh barefoot, the monarch alone bein~ The hides were packed flat with powdered ground entitled to wear shoes on thnse nccasir :~s. T::c bark between the layers. Somt:times roots and simplest type of Egyptian foc.nwar was a pa ::i ··• ~ berries of various kinds were added. The hides sole of leather bound to the foot by two straps. would be left in the "pickle" for months, then one passing over the instep and the other between were hung on poles and later smoothed out with the toes. Sometimes a third strap was fastened rolling pins. behind the heel. And they quite early turned up the front to protect the toes. The ancients began to ornament leather with gold and silver thread, embroidery and jewels at quite an early period, and the shoes and girdles of the princely class an: frequently mentioned. King Solomon's famous exclamation, "How beautiful are thy feet with shoes, 0 prince's daughter!" is paraphrased in the Thousand and One Nights in the descriptions of the splendid attire of princesses and sultans and heroes.