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Editorial Business Office EDITOR Amit Dixit CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Indranil Roy PROJECT EDITOR Sanjiv Valsan CONSULTING EDITOR Lasya Nadimpally Advertisements CMS EXECUTIVE Benny Joshua VICE PRESIDENT Sameer Saxena MANAGER Rakhi Puri First Edition 2019 Copyright © Outlook Publishing () Private Limited, New . Research All Rights Reserved ResearchERS Ranee Sahaney Circulation NATIONAL HEAD Anindya Banerjee

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2 3 contents

INTRODUCTION 08

trekking/cycling n Namdapha National Park 20 n Trekking in Tirap 34 n Five Treks in Dibang Valley 42 n Pasang Sonam Tso Trek 52 in n Bailey Trail, Thembang 60 n Cycling in Arunachal 64

Birding/wildlife n A Birder’s Guide to Arunachal 80 n 86 n Dibang Valley 96 n A Wildlife Filmmaker’s Diary 110

Wet And Wild Rafting, Angling, Fishing n Angling in Arunachal 116 n Rafting in Arunachal 122

Paragliding n Mechuka and Lumdung 132

iNformation n Travel Essentials 138 n Tourist/Wildlife Offices 150 n Tour Operators, Stay 151

4

Photographs by sanjiv valsan in Arunachal, especially for fish heavier than 5kg. The river slices through wild and thickly forested h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

woods on the higher reaches of the near , where it enters India from , before a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e crossing one of the world’s most unique high-altitude tiger habitats (thanks to the conservation-based culture of the Idu Mishmi tribe), and finally reaches the Lower Dibang Valley, where it can get really moody before joining the Brahmaputra. Arunachal is a camper’s delight is also the venue introduction Introduction of the Orange Festival of introduction king routes in the country. Adventure and Music held ■ Sanjiv Valsan unexplored wildlife and The Dibang River is one of in mid-December every indigenous tribal cultures. A the toughest in Arunachal year. This is an unusual but he land of high journey through the state for rafting, and calls for a lot successful mix of modern mountains, deep can be a heady and of skill. There are some international music, off- Tgorges, turbulent addictive experience in great spots along the river roading activities and rivers and landscapes every way possible. where you can hike up pris- adventure sports. ranging from dense tropical tine forests and go angling, The Mehao Wildlife rainforests, high-altitude The Dibang Valley all with the backdrop of Sanctuary, with its two-day wetlands, and alpine forests The upper and middle sec- spectacular views. Mehao Lake trek, is the to rugged snow-clad peaks, tions of the Dibang Valley ‘Catch-and-Release’ is most accessible-yet- is full of have some of the best trek- the norm with game fishing unexplored wildlife hike in

8 9 the Lower Dibang Valley in the Dibang Valley, to the district, accessed through Siang River in , cover- town, which in turn is ing a legally protected area easily reached from of over 5,000 sq km, at an h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Dibrugarh. altitudinal range between 1,500 and 5,000 m above Dihang-Dibang sea level. It constitutes Biosphere Reserve diverse terrains, habitats, a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e The Dihang-Dibang ecosystems and wildlife. Biosphere Reserve is one of Pemako, an unbelievably the seven officially protect- beautiful Shangri-La-esque ed ‘biospheres’ of India. It place, is associated with the extends from Mipi and Anini ancient sacred myths and ancestry stories of at least An orange orchard three tribes in the region, and can be a gruelling trek. Prayer flags fluttering around Sela Lake Western Arunachal introduction Arunachal Pradesh’s big lure the highest mountains in also attracts both introduction for hardcore mountaineers the state, colourful Tibetan- road-trippers and cyclists is that while there have style Buddhist culture, good through the - already been expeditions to accommodation and easy route, where com- peaks such as Gorichen road connectivity from petitive cycling events like (6,488m), paving the way for , it’s not surprising MTB Tawang have now future climbers, there are that Western Arunachal become yearly affairs. Off- many others that have not (Tawang and West Kameng roading has also begun to yet been scaled, standing districts) has become the gain popularity. tall as open challenges. state’s most visited zone, The Kameng River, after These include and is popular among which two districts have (7,060m), the highest peak trekkers and birders. The been named, is popular in the state. With some of motorable snow-covered among rafters. Angling is

10 11 good on a couple of For beginners, the river can stretches; the best parts of be a good option the Kameng are mostly downstream from Yinkiong gorge areas that are and Geku. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

inaccessible by road or foot, One of the best and need to be reached commercial rafting areas is by boat. at the easily accessible . This stretch is a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Along the Siang ideal for Rishikesh-style day The Siang is one of the programmes and long great transnational rivers of weekend camping trips at Asia and an ideal destina- Pongging village, which has tion for whitewater rafting. good views and caves to explore nearby. This is also Tourists enjoying rafting the site of ‘Siang Rush,’ an annual rafting expedition. In Basar, hunting and Rafting along a gentle stretch of water in Arunachal fishing have been introduction completely banned at the the Siang, the Daying Ering even short weekend angling introduction village level, to regenerate Wildlife Sanctuary is picnics, the Papum-Poma what has been lost through Arunachal’s only protected confluence, near , is recent unsustainable fishing wildlife area on an island. It popular among locals. practices. Traditional attracts birds such as the community fishing, however, black-breasted parrotbill, Further North is not just permitted once a swap prinia and Jerdon’s For fly-fishing in shallow year, but is also celebrated babbler. The Dibang-Bodak- waters, you must head to with gusto at the Basar is one of the most Mechuka, a picture-perfect Confluence, a cultural event popular angling circuits high-altitude valley near the bringing together a cluster among Indian anglers, who Indo-Tibetan border other- of villages. typically spend two or three wise known for its annual Located in the middle of nights at each place. For adventure festival,

12 13 Adventure@Mechukha, East Kameng because of which is held in November. Mechuka’s moody winds. While not as popular as the Bhalukpong--Tawang The Subansiri Districts h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

MTB circuit, Mechuka is also The snakes very much on the cycling through central Arunachal map (routes going via Pradesh and is a suitable Basar/). There’s also a rafting spot for beginners. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e ‘downhill-cycling’ scene The best mahseer here. Paragliding in angling here is mostly lower Mechuka is not nearly as down though, towards the predictable as more reliable Lower and West Siang spots like Pappu Valley in districts, which aren’t accessible by road or foot. A trekker enjoys the hill view You have to take a rafting trip to go angling here. Trekkers in the Namdapha National Park

The Wild East dense and mountainous that stretch of white water. As for introduction Namdapha is officially a ‘tiger spoting mammals outside angling, while some say that introduction reserve,’ but from a practical caera traps can either be there aren’t many bites perspective, it’s better for rare, accidental, or involve there, others swear by their spotting birds, butterflies, days or even weeks of climb- secret spots on the Lohit week-long jungle treks, and ing through tough terrain and River, closer to . camping by the wild beaches dense forests. A trek up to Dong (a hilly of the Noa-Dihing River. As Like the Kameng, the village in the with most tiger reserves in in Eastern bordering China that sees Arunachal, enter without Arunachal is also great for the first sunrise in India) can absolute expectations of rafting, but certainly not for be an enchanting sighting a big cat, especially beginners. While coming experience. This is a if you are on a short trip. The down from the popular stopover for bikers jungles of Arunachal are so area, it’s a tough Class V and MTB cyclists. ■

14 15 introduction Adrenaline in arunachalpradesh From trekkinginthehighmountains aroundTawang toraftingin the whiterapidsin Siang, unleashthe realadventurejunkie in youArunachalPradesh. follow usonArunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm Phone: +91-360-2214745 |E-mail:[email protected] Govt. ofArunachalPradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Department ofTourism

introduction t r e k k i n g cycling trekking &

n a m d a p h a n a t i o n a l p a r k Photographs by sanjiv valsan h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e p a r k

n a t i o n a l

The Noa-Dihing flows through Namdapha; riverside trek (facing page) range office and accom- more multilayered t r e k k i n g modation are located, is experience, and sort of a basecamp within recommended only for real Namdapha National Park Namdapha, and this is adventure enthusiasts with n a m d a p h a where most excursions an open return plan. n a m d a p h a ■ Sanjiv Valsan monsoon forest. It is one of begin and end. the world’s greatest While the trek to ‘52nd Birding trek ith a core area of biodiversity hotspots and is Mile’ camping spot is the 1,808 sq km and a a legend among birders. last point in the core area Deban to 52nd Mile and Wbuffer zone of 177 The best (and perhaps direction where the general back (6–7 days): sq km, and a massive the only) way to experience public is allowed to trek, the This modular route is the altitudinal range, Namdapha both wildlife and indigenous Namdapha-Vijoynagar trek, most popular hike among is a rare combination of tribal culture in Namdapha on the defunct old Miao- birders who come from all Himalaya highlands, Bengal is by trekking. Deban, where Vijoynagar Route to the over the world, and involves rainforest and Burma the forest department’s Indo- border, is a crossing the forests and

20 21 Photographs: shutterstock banks close to the impres- Haldibari, where you can Namdapha is famed. sive Noa-Dihing River, and spot the hornbill if you’re Sometimes water is camping along picturesque lucky. The Forest unavailable at Haldibari, so river beaches. The further Department has a camping you’d have to do the entire h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

in you go, the better are spot here. stretch till Hornbill Camp your chances of interesting from Deban on a single day. sightings. Haldibari to Hornbill Camp (6–7 km from Haldibari, 12 Hornbill Camp to Bulbulia a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e The route: km from Deban): As the (2.5km): Bulbulia gets its Deban to Haldibari (5–6 name suggests, this is a name from the natural hot km): Cross the river by ferry, point for spotting the water sulphurous springs and walk till you reach hornbill, for which (bulbule) here. Thanks to

the presence of a salt-lick, p a r k Namdapha is a birder’s paradise there’s a possibility of seeing the gaur, wild boar, sambar, barking deer and n a t i o n a l

even the elephant here. t r e k k i n g There are remains of an older watchtower-like Sambar (top); gaur structure here, which can

make for a good viewpoint. deeper experience, you can n a m d a p h a From here, you can see the move onwards to the treetop canopy from a Ranijheel campsite. vantage point and birds such as the long-tailed sibia Bulbulia to Ranijheel and greater racket-tailed (5km): There’s a campsite drongos. where you can pitch tents at To limit the trekking time Ranjiheel. Birds recorded in to three days, make a this stretch include the great U-turn towards Deban after rufous-headed parrotbill Bulbulia; for a longer and and red-billed scimitar

22 23 guneet narula babbler, wreathed hornbill, snow-covered peaks such as hawk eagle and white- Dapha Bum, visible at a winged duck. distance, and the other from the Myanmar end. There’s h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Ranijheel to Firm Base also an interesting detour (5km): Geographically, it’s a possibility. From Firm Base, confluence of the two move to Embeong and tributaries, one coming from cross over the river to a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e complete a circular circuit Malayan giant squirrel back to Deban and visit some tribal villages on the way, without returning

through the same route. By p a r k this point, with some luck and a good guide, you could spot mammals such n a t i o n a l

as the hoolock gibbon, Elephants prepare for a safari t r e k k i n g Asian elephant, Asian one- horned rhinoceros, swamp game country actually Elephant safaris deer and wild water buffalo. begins. Estimate a 7-day Elephant safaris are possible

trip for Deban to 52nd Mile on the route till Hornbill n a m d a p h a Firm Base to 52nd Mile: A and back. It may take longer Camp. They can be used as six-hour hike from Firm if you’re waiting to spot porters till Firm Base, Base, 52nd Mile is the last wildlife, of course; and though. Bridges across the point where trekking is shorter, should you choose rivers in the park have permitted without to turn back to Deban from recently been damaged due additional special Ranijheel, Bulbulia or to flood and elephants are a permission. The grasslands Hornbill Camp. For a safe way to cross the rivers. of Firm Base, 52nd Mile and short trip of 2–3 days, Depending on the rains, the onwards are basically where turn back to Deban after icy river can swell unpredict- tiger and other big cats’ Hornbill Camp. ably and reach chest-deep

24 25 Narendra Bisht levels in many crossings on alternate route the route. These elephants have been trained to create Namdapha to Vijoynagar makeshift bridges during on the old Miao- h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

river crossings by carrying Vijoynagar Road and dropping large tree This route is strictly for the trunks. Spending around a adventurous; not many make week in the forest with an it all the way through dense a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e elephant can also be an rainforests, bamboo thickets, interesting experience. riverside boulders, skirting landslides and fording rivers; The route: braving leeches for at least

six days, wading through all p a r k 1) Deban (17th Mile) to sorts of knee or even waist- 25th Mile deep waterbodies just to 2) 25th Mile to 52nd Mile visit a village on the interna- Huts at Namdapha n a t i o n a l

3) 52nd Mile to 65th Mile tional border. There was t r e k k i n g (there’s also a village at once actually a motorable of the last great adventures Lisu tribal villages on this 77th Mile) road to Vijoynagar, India’s around, combining forests route, where rations, fruits 4) 65th Mile to 80th Mile last village at the Myanmar as well as tribal villages in a and even treats like Chinese

5) 80th Mile to border, surrounded by the universe that’s cut off from apple wine, rice wine and n a m d a p h a Gandhigram (86th Mile)— forests of Myanmar on three the outside world. cooked local meals can be there many villages after sides, and Namdapha bought, at villages on 52nd Gandhigram National Park on the fourth Tribal villages Mile, 77th Mile, 82nd Mile 6) Gandhigram to Hazilu side. The old MV road got Points on the route are and the many villages after Basti : (11–12km) dysfunctional and was never mostly defined in miles; Gandhigram. From 7) Hazilu Basti to repaired after the 1990s. these refer to milestones on Gandhigram onwards, there Vijoynagar, you fly back India’s wild east is a the 95-mile Miao-Vijoynagar are many Lisu tribal villages. by chopper that connects secluded patch with no road Road (Miao is the zero Japanese warplanes crashed to Miao access, stretching up to the point), which is now com- in this forest during World Burmese border. This is one pletely damaged. There are War II and in true zero-

26 27 Alamy images / India Picture waste tribal style, locals are Lisus, but was renamed by said to have collected and the . recycled scraps from the wreckages into daily use Returning to civilisation h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

and household objects, Choppers run twice a week which can still sometimes between be found in a few homes in (Itanagar)-Miao-Vijoynagar villages on this route. and back. Don’t schedule a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Gandhigram, with around any important events or 400 homes, is pretty large book expensive return flight for a village with zero road tickets assuming you will connectivity. Vijoynagar is catch these back from

known as Daudi by the Vijoynagar on the day of p a r k your choice, because like Porters enroute to Hawa camp many chopper services in Locals at Namdapha Eco Cultural Festival, Miao Arunachal, these flights can n a t i o n a l

get cancelled because of you’ll eventually get a chop- choose a date to book a t r e k k i n g poor weather, or run full per out. return ticket back home. because of medical emer- Plan to reach Vijoynagar gencies, which get priority in time for the chopper, and The Lisu tribe

over regular folks. The army choose day one of the trek Parts of Namdapha, espe- n a m d a p h a also runs intermittent servic- from Namdapha according- cially the areas stretching es out of Vijoynagar, and if ly. To add a touch more pre- towards the Myanmar bor- you’re in luck, you can get dictability to your return der, are generally consid- one of these as well. In schedule, you could choose ered the home of the short, in keeping with the to do the hike in reverse Burmese-origin Lisu tribe, adventurous nature of this direction (Vijoynagar to also sometimes known as whole trip, maintain an Deban), flying in to the Yobin, who migrated open return plan, if you Vijoynagar either from and settled here from China don’t plan on walking the Naharlagun or Miao. This via Myanmar, before India same route back to Miao; way, you can confidently became a republic. Narendra Bisht

28 29 On the long trek to head-loads of stuff, Vijoynagar, you will end up accompanied by even little meeting Lisus in their forest four-year-old kids. They trek villages, especially while for several days to Miao h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

stopping to purchase food every time they need to supplies or find village access the cash economy, or homestays. Even closer to shop for basic rations, Deban, along the old Miao- sleeping in makeshift a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Vijoynagar Road, you could shelters that they create in encounter entire families of no time, using bamboo and Lisus making this long leaves in the forest en route. journey everyday, carrying Probably the most

skilled hunters in these p a r k Spiders parts, they are known for their jungle survival skills. A photographer captures rare flora in Namdapha With the road connecting n a t i o n a l

them to the mainland gone natural objects anywhere in Costs within Namdapha t r e k k i n g and never rebuilt since, the the forest. Birding hike Cost: Lisus live in mostly self- The Lisus are friendly Approximately `4,000 per sufficient tribal villages and hospitable to outsiders head

inside the forest with no who manage to come this Taxis from Miao to Deban n a m d a p h a road access, weave their far, especially when (Namdapha): `2,500–3,000 own textiles, build their own accompanied by a good Regular rooms: `270/night houses using local materials guide or porter with local (Indians) `470/night (for- and are experts at forest village contacts. In Miao eigners) foraging and cane, bamboo town, the main tribes are Traditional huts: `470 and wood craft. They can the (mostly Buddhist) (Indians) and `870 (foreign- make tools, baskets, traps, Singphos and the Tangsas, ers). Dorms: `120 per bed shelters and all sorts of stuff who are more like a set Camping charges: `1,000 using nothing other than a of tribes, rather than a per night machete and locally found single group. Camera entry fee: `1,000 Photographs: Narendra Bisht

30 31 guneet narula per day for long lens camer- basic but charming tradi- as, `500 for smaller cameras tional bamboo huts are the Entry fee: `100 per day for ones to go for. Indians, `200 for foreigners Phupla Singpho has also h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Elephant hire charges: been operating tours in `1,000 per day per elephant this area for years, and + `500 per mahout runs Namdapha Tours and ■ Treks and a more a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Accommodation and tour comfortable quaint operators riverside resort at Miao Among the Forest called Namdapha Jungle Department’s accommoda- Camp (Cell: 09436228763)

tion options at Deban, the near the Noa-Dihing River. p a r k Abor Country, HELP A dormitory in Deban Tourism and Jungle Travels (W jungle-travelsindia.com) n a t i o n a l

regularly run treks to t r e k k i n g Firm Base. Traditional cottage in Deban The Dapha Valley lodge at Miao is also worth a Tip The reserve doesn’t cost. Tour operators will

dekko for spending the first take tourists from April to probably be more n a m d a p h a and/or last night at Miao, October (the wet season). convenient, though. If before or after the trek to While organising a hike trekking independently, either Vijoynagar or Firm with the Forest Department contact Japang Pansa (Cell: Base direction. will be cheaper (`5,000- 09402045864) for assistance With clean double rooms 7,000 per head for a four- with planning treks, birding starting at `800, hot water, day-programme for 6-8 or wildlife hikes and scoring good local food, friendly pax), you’ll probably have to equipment locally. He’s a caretakers and comfortable do the math, and add up tribal working for the Forest mattresses, it’s quite a the components to Department and hence has bargain! determine the actual total ample contacts. ■ guneet narula

32 33 Photographs by sanjiv valsan Noctes and Wanchos (the tribe in present-day ) used to practice ‘Headhunting’, a h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

practice where the victor of a war would bring home skulls of their enemies to proudly display as a sign of a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e bravery, and be recognised for his valour with a prestig- ious body tattoo and a huge welcome party with feasts, song and dance.

The Salt Well trail Although headhunting has

not been practiced in sever- t i r a p t r e k k i n g Tirap is a cloud gazer’s paradise al decades, other aspects of Trekking in Tirap tribal culture such as folk identities, but have now songs, dances, costume, ■ Sanjiv Valsan Elephant Reserve as been grouped in official wood craft, traditional heal- neighbours and cultural records as the ‘Noctes’. In ing and their connection ust by looking at the influences. Nearly all of Tirap, nearly every Nocte with animal spirits still map, you can guess Tirap is part of a major village has its own king and abound in the misty moun- Jthat Tirap is one of the elephant corridor that’s rich its own language. tains of Tirap. The Salt Well most interesting parts of in wildlife. From Joypur in trail, which begins at the India, with Myanmar, Assam till the Singphan Headhunting legacy ancient kingdom of Assam’s Joypur Rainforest, Elephant Reserve in In the days gone by, like the Borduria, is a great way to Arunachal’s own , the region is tribes of Nagaland and get acquainted with both and Longding districts and home to a group of tribes Sagaing region across the the tribes and the landscape Nagaland’s Singhpan that originally held separate border in Myanmar, the of Tirap.

34 35 Borduria millets or tapioca, or a mix Borduria has a rich history; it of one or more ingredients. was the most important At Borduria, river camping is centre of the ancient Nocte possible at the Lowangcha h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

kingdom, and is still an Tea Estate, a great spot for important hub of Nocte cul- sunsets, stargazing and ture, craft and textile weav- unwinding to the sounds of ing. The local cuisine and the river. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e wine is worth checking out. Nocte jumin is said to be Borduria to Paniduria one of the best grain wines village (5hrs) out there. Jumin can be The day begins with cross- made with either rice, corn, ing small streams and a hanging bridge over a river Traditional Nocte house with crystal clear water, and a gentle climb to a vantage t i r a p point with good views of Tirap landscape with rain clouds t i r a p t r e k k i n g Borduria village. At Paniduria, the ideal camp- exceptionally delicious, Eastern were ing spot is an organic putting anything from the connected by road to the orange orchard, where you plains to shame. sea coasts of mainland can pluck and munch as India, common salt was one many oranges as you want Paniduria to of the most valuable com- (with the permission of the Khowathong (3hrs) modities in the region; not owner, of course). Generally The Soijan River is in its true just for making food taste unknown to the outside character on this stretch, better, but also for gaining world, Arunachal Pradesh’s since it has been associated the loyalty of the Bos fronta- oranges (in winter), like with Nocte history for cen- lis, a semi-wild/semi-domes- most fruits grown here, are turies. Its salt wells made ticated bovine related to nearly absolutely organic, this area prosperous in the the Indian gaur and popu- reasonably priced and times gone by. Before the larly known as the mithun,

36 37 which the tribals of central part in the diet and Arunachal and Nagaland culture of many tribes in the tamed using their biggest Northeast. This gentle weakness, salt. Once they bovine has always given all h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

are addicted to an easy sup- the tribes here the protein ply of salt, mithuns can be security of domesticated set free to graze in the for- meat without the environ- est and live like any other mental damage and a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e wild animal, but they will costs associated with mod- return to their ‘master’ ern ranch-based animal whenever needed, as long husbandry. as they are found and given Swimming in sections of salt. Mithun sacrifice and this ‘salty river’ is said to be meat have always been a of great therapeutic value and cure all sorts of A traditional hearth illnesses; locals from nearby

villages still make it a point Sunsets in western Arunachal are mesmerising t i r a p t r e k k i n g to trek all the way here at least once or twice a year, gun-making, an unusual skill and beyond just to bathe. that the Wancho tribe (of From Chasa, there are many the neighbouring Longding other cultural excursions Khowathong to district) is more known for. that are accessible by road, Chasa (3hrs) From Khowathong, including Khonsa, a mostly The route from Paniduria there’s a jeep track leading animist village near Khonsa moves downhill into a val- to Chasa village, the original town, the district headquar- ley, a river crossing and later village from which some ters of Tirap; Luthong, takes a steep climb to people left and established where you can meet the last Khowathong village. Khowathong. The Noctes tattooed headhunters of Khowathong is a centre for and Wanchos trace their Tirap; Lapnan, the village traditional crafts, especially origins to present-day where headhunting skull tro- expressive woodcarving and Myanmar and China. phies are still displayed in

38 39 t r e k k i n g a d v e n t u r e h o l i d a y s A Nocte longhouse Nocte A 40 the upto right villages, more even into and wild, the into further lead trails villages, these of each From tattoos. facial traditional bear still women middle-aged even where Noctes), the of tribe’ ‘sub- a considered cially offi- (now tribe Olo the of hamlet a Sanliem, to ahead further drive or ‘pangs’; called centres munity com- in style traditional the Holiday reasons. security to due Tirap of parts some through travel to allowed be not might nationals Foreign villages. through routestrekking and stay home- a find to way good a be can guide local A infrastructure. tourism tional conven- isn’tthere where Tirap, like areacovered undis- an in operator local a through go to advisable is It Trekkingoperators 4–5hrs). (120km/ town Khonsa through Return station. way airport/rail- from 104km/4hrs located iently conven- is Tirap in Borduria there Getting ed near Lazu. near ed locat- border Indo-Myanmar tours here. tours culinary and trekking in book) the of back Tourthe (see at Operators Camp amdapha Holidays Namdapha T ours & ours ■ T Village and ravels specialise Phone: +91-360-2214745 |E-mail:[email protected] Making agoodcatchwhileyoustandonthe banks ofgushingriverssurrounded Govt. ofArunachalPradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India follow usonArunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm Arunachal pradesh by highmountains!HeadtoArunachalforthat perfectpicture. Angling

Department ofTourism

t i r a p Photographs by sanjiv valsan this is one of the best expe- riences in this part of the world. The trek begins at a tropical jungle and moves h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

up to a high peak at Chebra (1,100 m), which needs to be traversed to reach a for- est filled with exotic vegeta- a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e tion in every colour imagi- nable. There are wild high- altitude orchids and an archipelago of dozens of lakes of all shapes and sizes, seven of which are feasible to cover within two

days. Overall, this is a v a l l e y

hard trek, requiring fitness t r e k k i n g A highland village at Dibang and resolve. Five Treks in Dibang Valley The Idu Mishmis know d i b a n g tigers and wildlife can be this area as a place where ■ Sanjiv Valsan Tibet and . found here than anywhere rare medicinal plants grow, The local Idu Mishmi tribe else in the state. like the legendary Mishmi ith its lush green has been attracting global titha and other rare plants forests, craggy recognition lately for its 1.The Seven Lakes that can treat fevers, aches, Wsnow-clad peaks ancient traditional religious Trek (5 days) burns, wounds, livestock and ancient shamanic systems that the people Grade: Tough diseases and neutralise traditions, Dibang Valley is practice to this day. Their An extremely colourful, poison. The monals, blood Arunachal Pradesh’s wildest culture intelligently includes high-altitude wildflower trek pheasant and the endemic and most unexplored wildlife conservation as a through lovely forests and Mishmi takin can be spotted district. It is a huge part of daily life, because of exceptional landscapes near at close range. The lake mountainous zone between which a greater density of the Indo-Tibetan border, area also boasts of

42 43 interesting wild mushrooms; Emuli village by road from and for a refreshing change, Anini town, and on to most of them are edible Emungu on foot. here. High Altitude Sickness Day 2 Emungu to Chebra h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

is a real risk on this trek; a (8–9km/5-6hrs): From day or two of acclima- Chebra, the highest point tisation is essential. Anini is of the trek, descend to the most convenient place Kamu Lake. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e for this. Day 3&4 Chebra to Kamu Lake: Two days at Kamu Route Lake to acclimatise to the Day 1 Emuli village to altitude, roam around and Emungu (6km/3hrs): Reach explore all seven lakes. Most hikers spend two The Dibang hill-scape nights here, but there’s

plenty to explore for those v a l l e y

who choose to stay longer A trekking route through the valley t r e k k i n g and carry enough ration. Day 5 Kamu lake to Inguyi August-November: Less Valley standards) and scenic, d i b a n g Camp (9km/7hrs): Trek to rain, better visibility, but not with continuous patches of Inguyi, 2km after which the enough floral diversity bamboo forest, good views motorable road to Anini Winter months: Snowfall of open landscapes and begins at Mipi-2 village. and extreme cold makes gently undulating paths, Return to Anini by road everything tougher crossing the Dibang River at (30–35km/1hr). two or three points on 2. Emuli to Biyali authentic Idu Mishmi hand- June and July: For exotic (3 days, 2 nights) made bamboo hanging high-altitude wildflowers, via Enguli bridges, a rare marvel. At but quite rainy, less visibility Grade: Easy Biyali, a lively Idu Mishmi of distant landscape This circular trek is both tribal hamlet, you can because of rain and mist relatively easy (by Dibang choose to spend the night

44 45 Photographs: Adiju Rondo in a local home or your own lock their old homes while tent. Enguli, the second they’re in Anini, thanks to stop on the hike, is an unu- the zero crime rate in these sual village with homes but parts. With the permission h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

no inhabitants, even though of the owner (managed by there’s a population there the trek operator), you can on the official census. Most actually stay in one of these of its inhabitants have deserted bamboo houses, a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e moved to Anini for govern- use their hearth and fire- ment jobs because Enguli place and be the only has no roads, and they inhabitants of the entire return only occasionally; village for a day. they don’t even bother to Route: Hiking in Dibang Day 1 Emuli to Biyali (8–9 v a l l e y

km, 3–4 hrs). Day 2 Biyali to Enguli: The diversity of flora on the Seven Lakes trek t r e k k i n g ( 6–8 km, 3 hrs) Day 3 Enguli to Biyali (6–8 er-yet-scenic options, with a traditionally consider the d i b a n g km, 3 hrs) landscape that differs from tiger as their brother, and Season: year-round, but the others on this list; it since they never harm big winters will be less wet involves more cross-country cats, the felines here return walking along a riverside the favour and co-exist 3. Dri Valley Trek route with waterfalls and peacefully with humans. You (4 days, 3 nights) views of snow-clad moun- can participate in traditional Grade: Easy–Medium tains, birds, tiger and fishing on the Dri River. There are plenty of trek Mishmi takin pugmarks from routes in Dri valley, near time to time. Even if you Route: Acheso village, difficulty lev- don’t see the tigers, they Day 1 Acheso to els ranging from easy to will probably see and smell ‘Chaipani Camp’ (3–4 hrs, hard. This is one of the easi- you. The Idu Mishmi tribe cross-country) Adiju Rondo

46 47 Day 2 Chaipani to Chigu 4. The Alombro Trek (2 Camp: (3–4 hours, cross- days, 1 night) country) Grade: Medium Day 3 Chigu Camp to Another circular trek begin- h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Pathar Camp (3–4 hours, ning and ending at the cross-country) Emuli hamlet, an Idu Mishmi Day 4 Pathar Camp to tribal village, this one cross- Chaipani Camp to Anini, es no less than four hanging a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e skipping Chigu Camp (7 bridges over several points hrs). The motorable road on the river. Stay in either a begins a bit after Chaipani traditional Idu Mishmi bam- Camp, from where you can boo longhouse (changhar) go by road to Anini. in these villages and social- ise by the fire, sipping on A camp with a view locally made corn or millet

wine with a tribal family or v a l l e y

carry a tent and camp out- Picturesque vistas of Anini t r e k k i n g doors. at Malini village (homestays Route: d i b a n g Route: available in villages en Day 1 Malini to Marki Day 1 Emuli to Alombro vil- route), and transitions from campsite (4–6 hours) lage (3 hrs). bamboo groves to lush Day 2 Makhri to Balwa (3–4 Day 2 Alombro to Emuli: green alpine meadows hrs) Through a different route between Makhri and Balwa. Day 3 Balwa to Dara (5–7 Flowering season is hrs) 5. Malini to Dara between March and August, Day 4 Dara to Malini (6–7 (4 days, 3 nights) depending on the species. hrs) Grade: Easy Rains will be more intense The trail begins with a mix towards the August end of Getting there of forests, cross-country the flower season, but plant Anini (headquarters of the walks, ascents and descents diversity will be richer. ) is Adiju Rondo

48 49 380km/10hrs drive from the Roing and Pasighat on Assamese towns of Tuesdays currently, and Dibrugarh (closest airport/ these can be convenient railway station) and from options when rough weath- h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Tinsukia (335km/9hrs by er doesn’t result in their road). These mountain cancellation. roads are rough in patches, and landslides, rain Costs a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e and snowfall can considera- As with most treks, these bly increase time spent on will vary with stay options, the road. schedules and food chosen, Weekly choppers fly from and importantly, how much Naharlagun (Itanagar), weight your porters would have to carry. Costs in these View of Anini town remote areas are higher

than in the mainland v a l l e y

because of various factors, Inside a traditional Idu Mishmi home t r e k k i n g but all things considered, most operators charge rea- around `20,000 per head hiking, homestays in tradi- d i b a n g sonably. Here are some ball- for a smaller group, includ- tional villages and tents are park figures: The Seven ing meals and car hires to the way. Lakes trek would cost and from Trek Operators in Dibang `3,50,000–400,000 mini- by SUV. Valley: mum for a group of 10, l Dibang Adventure (Adiju including car hires and Where to stay Rondo) drops, riverside camping Homestays, arranged l The Mishmi Hills (Tine after the trek and a village through your trekking oper- Mena) tour and meals, and car ator, are generally the best l Mishmi Hills Camp / Eco hires to and from Dibrugarh option; though Anini town Camp (Jibi Pulu) airport and within Anini. also has a Circuit House and l Mishmi Hills Resort & Emuli to Biyali would cost Forest Rest House. While Hotels (Rezina Mihu) ■

50 51 Pasang Sonam Tso Trek in Mechuka h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

■ Sanjiv Valsan Leave Mechuka as early in the morning as possible, he trek to Pasang preferably even before a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Sonam Tso (Tso means dawn to get enough time T‘lake’), near Arunachal for the toughest part of the Pradesh’s Mechuka, is a trek; leaving early lets you spectacular one to say the enjoy the walk without hav- least. The Indian army, Indo- ing to struggle with reach-

Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) ing before sunset, which t s o

and other security and road happens very early around maintenance personnel these parts in winter. s o n a m routinely patrol this sensitive Account time for gathering t r e k k i n g border. Over the last few and preparing firewood for years though, hikers have the campsite and starting also begun to discover this a fire at the end of the day. p a s a n g hidden high-altitude lake. It helps to have at least This is probably one of the two people as guides/por- most beautiful treks in the ters even if you’re travelling Eastern Himalayas. Hiking solo here. here requires special Day 1 Track Junction to permission. Shastri Camp (5hrs): In the first hour itself, the route The route crosses near-vertical Day 1 Mechuka to Track patches, with only a metal junction/ITBP check-post at wire to hold on to, and bits Yorlung (2 hrs by road): of thin bamboo ladders

52 53 Photographs by sanjiv valsan horizontally placed like all be a little tiring, but the small bridges between cliffs, forest is really unique, and with dizzying views of the totally worth the effort. depths and brooks below. Particularly delightful are h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

This path is full of steep the stretches of wild climbs and slippery blueberry bushes, which are descents, and involves quite a sight in their autumn skipping over streams, then colours during fruiting a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e a descent to the rocky season (November), when banks of the tireless Yorlung you can keep plucking and Fooj river, where you’ll need munching on these tangy- to jump from boulder to sweet delights through at boulder for a bit. This can least half the hike.

Some very basic shelter The mesmerising Yorlung Fooj river t s o

Autumn colours in the form of wooden huts is available at Ummeed making it less rushed. Day 2 Shastri Camp to s o n a m Camp (4hrs walk from Track These huts are meant Pasang Sonam Tso (2hrs): t r e k k i n g Junction), Shastri Camp more to be makeshift The morning begins with (5hrs) and Pasang Sonam shelters for army men to another long stretch of Tso (7hrs). While the lake is light a campfire, keep warm, riverside boulder-hopping, p a s a n g obviously the main cook and spend the night. and through more blueberry attraction of the trip and Check with your guide bushes with a slight ascent, most scenic camping spot, about which of these huts is before reaching an open Shastri Camp, though not as in the most habitable shape stretch of beautiful open, is also a lovely at the time of your trip landscape by the Tibetan location. The hut here is before deciding where to border, a mix of green sometimes in a better camp, or whether to carry mountains, dense pine shape, which matters when your tent. It can get very forests and snowy peaks it’s raining or snowing, and cold here, and snowfall can high above the tree line, the reduces the walk on day begin as early as late most dramatic of which is one by about two hours, November. the Chuning La peak, with

54 55 its mirror image calmly Day 3 Pasang Sonam Tso to reflecting on the Pasang Track Junction (7hrs): The Sonam lake when it’s still return to the base camp early in the morning. The through the same route is a h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

lake eventually mosaics into bit more downhill than the a shimmer once the winds walk up, and if you made it pick up later in the morning this far up, then the return and animate everything in hike should be manageable a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e sight. If the hut/tent can in one long stretch. There’s handle the howling winds no public transport between and possibilities of frost and Track Junction and Mechuka snow, this is obviously the town, so make sure you place to camp, with views of have either parked a car

a lovely little slice of there or arranged for one to t s o

southern Tibet. pick you up. In case the car doesn’t arrive (it can s o n a m Prayer flags, Pasang Sonam Tso happen), an emergency Wild blueberries (left) and colours of the forest t r e k k i n g option is hitching a cold and windy ride on the back and other variables. It’s Fall-Winter: (October– of a truck with the cheerful technically possible to do December): The driest p a s a n g construction workers from the entire trek in one night season. Colder tempe- the GREF/ITBP camp. and two days, but is best to ratures, subzero at night. The entire route between spend at least two nights Shorter days, longer nights, Track Junction and Pasang and three days to make it so schedule walks accor- Sonam Tso is 23km/7hrs relaxed and enjoyable. dingly. Snowfall is possible. walk approximately. This Frost begins mid- trek is medium to tough Seasons November. grade, not without risk; Summer (July–September): Peak winter (January– hence, it helps to be Warmer weather, longer Feb): Even shorter days. physically fit. Trail conditions days for more leisurely More technical. Prepare for depend on rain, snowfall walks. Prepare for leeches! tricky patches through snow.

56 57 Getting there Station, reach Aalo (Along) The closest town is by road (253km, 6.5hrs) and Mechuka (also sometimes then from Aalo to Mechuka spelt Menchukha or (180km). Car needed to h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Mechukha), a picturesque reach Track Junction, the place built around a military starting point of the trek. air landing ground, where By Flight, Chopper: you can happily spend the or Mohanbari a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e first night at a local home- (Dibrugarh) airport to stay. Naharlagun (Itanagar). Flight/train Overnight at Itanagar. Via Dibrugarh airport/rail- Connecting chopper from way station, road: From Naharlagun the following

Dibrugarh Airport or Railway morning (3hrs, Mondays t s o

and Saturdays only) to Memba women at Yorlung Mechuka. s o n a m

t r e k k i n g Trekking permissions Camping in the forests around Mechuka Special permission is required to trek to Pasang local trek operator is the November. In addition to p a s a n g Sonam Tso, which is mostly best bet in managing these. adventure sports such as given only to Indians from Menchukha Tours & shooting, rappelling, river the Indo-Tibetan Border Travels organises treks crossing, paragliding, Police through the around Mechuka. mountain biking and aero- Additional Deputy modelling, there are Commissioner, Mechuka. things to see and do cultural events and food For information on permis- stalls. The Government sions, contact the office of Adventure@Mechukha, the Craft Centre is good for the Additional Deputy annual adventure festival, is purchasing handicrafts Commissioner, a three-day-long extrava- such as the Tibetan-style Mechuka (09436043852). A ganza organised in Thaan carpets. ■

58 59 Photographs by sanjiv valsan sightseeing at the charming fort at Thembang, this six- to-seven-day trek can begin directly at Chander. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Way before the British ‘discovered’ this route, the Tibetan and Indo-Tibetan tribes in the region have a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e been using Sela ridge as a yak trail, taking in their caravans of yak wool, hides, precious stones and yak butter to barter in the markets in Assam. The trail didn’t escape t r a i l

the attention of the Chinese either during the t r e k k i n g Trekking in the clouds 1962 Indo-China war, when b a i l e y Bailey Trail, Thembang their soldiers took the travelled southwards via Bailey Trail from Tulung La, ■ Sanjiv Valsan Thembang, a fortified Mago, Lap, Pota, Poshing la Mago, Poshing La to village in Western Arunachal along this route to Thembang, causing he Bailey Trail traces Pradesh. Their data Thembang, the trail named considerable damage to the the historic expedition eventually resulted in the after their exploits takes the Indian forces. Tof two British officers, creation of the McMahon route in reverse, beginning At Poshing la today, Lt Col FM Bailey and Capt Line, which became, and at Thembang, the Brokpa there are few traces of war HT Morshead, who still remains, the Interna- yak herding village of left. Instead, what we find is surveyed this route during tional boundary with Tibet/ Chander, and ending near serenity and superb views of colonial times for the China, a demarcation that Jang town. A road now the Gorichen massif, and purpose of map-making. China does not recognise. connects Thembang with the peaks of Gorichen They travelled from Tibet to While Bailey and Morshead Chander, so after some (6,538m), Kangto (7,090m),

60 61 Nyegyi Kangsang (7,047m) rhododendrons in bloom and Takpa Shiri (6,655m). At (around spring) and 4,550m, the snow-covered temperate forests on the Tse La Pass is the highest descent into Mago. h o l i d a y s point of the trek, which Winter is the relatively crosses mountain passes, dry season, but expect glacial rivers and lakes and snow in some parts. Monpa tribal villages. The During certain times of a d v e n t u r e landscapes are exceptionally the year, for instance, diverse, with snow-covered autumn, if you’re lucky, pine and juniper forests, cloud conditions align and entire patches of the sun is relatively low on the horizon behind, you A man prepares to churn butter could get to see a rare beauty of nature called the Brocken Spectre, a full circle rainbow around your t r e k k i n g shadow, following you across the ridge. This is one of the most spell-binding sights here.

The Route: Thembang–Chander Lagaam–Thungri–Changla– River Rafting Poshing La–Pangi La–Nyang–Potok–Tse Arunachal pradesh La–Laap–Lurthim– Mago– Ditch the mainland, head to where the wild rapids are! The Siang is your playground and high-level rapids your toys! Thimbu (Hydel). Closest Thembang, Department of Tourism roadheads: Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India , Dirang, Jang ■ Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm 62 Photographs courtesy Spokehub Cycling Day 2 Kalaktang to Rupa (75km) is again quite scenic, passing through quaint vil- lages, including the Tibetan h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

settlements at Tenzing gaon, where one can spend the night and sample some traditional Tibetan cuisine. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Chilipam Gompa, an impor- tant Buddhist monastery, is 15km from Rupa, and worth a detour if time is available. Day 3 Rupa to Dirang (60km) will be one of the toughest bits, with steep inclines through the Bomdila Pass. From here c y c l i n g En route to Tawang on, most of the villages will c y c l i n g Cycling in Arunachal be of the Monpa tribe. After Day 1 Bhairabkunda to Bomdila, it is an easy down- ■ Sanjiv Valsan covered Sela Pass, one of Kalaktang (60km) is chal- hill ride to Dirang along the the highest motorable roads lenging, considering the river for 7km, to the lush Guwahati to Tawang via in India. Covering a distance steep inclines and endless green and breathtaking Bhairabkunda of approximately 320km, hairpin turns. views of Sangti Valley. It’s (One week, including a day the landscapes on this route The old Kalaktang worth spending at least a at Sangti valley) begin with tropical forests village, home of the Monpa day here. After Sangti, This is one of the most sce- on the Assam-Arunachal and Sherdukpen tribes, is there’s also a hot spring, nic but difficult cycling border and go on to zigzag like a live cultural museum. which is a few kilometres routes in Northeast India, across high mountains People here practise ancient ahead of Dirang town, a reaching an altitude of above the treeline before crafts and still live in tradi- treat to relax after a tiring 4,175 m at the snow- getting back to alpine. tional ways. ride. The Dirang to Senge

64 65 (35km) stretch is a gradual The climb to Sela is tough, climb along dusty and bro- especially because of the ken roads. You can stay the high altitude (4,175m) and night at Senge. lack of oxygen. The weather h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

The best part of the is also unpredictable, and it route is undoubtedly the can rain or snow at any hardest and most scenic time. At the top of the pass climb, the one from Senge is the beautiful Sela Lake. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e to Sela. Here, it is likely to After riding for about be snowing. The longer 16km ahead of Sela Pass, descent to Jang (66km) also you will reach Jaswanth affords picturesque vistas. Garh, a memorial to Subedar Jaswant Singh, an Spectacular views Indian army soldier who single-handedly tried to hold the Chinese army at this post for 72 hours during Camping at a clearing near Tawang c y c l i n g the 1962 Indo-China war. c y c l i n g Stay over at Jang, where Bhalukpong-Dirang-Sangti Valley and Pakke-Kesang there’s the beautiful Valley-Sela Pass-Tawang- Tiger Reserve. Nuranang waterfall where Zemithang you can spot rainbows Day 1 The ride from sometimes. Naharlagun-- Naharlagun to The final day from Jang Tawang (75km) is easy (considering to Tawang (30km) will be far (One week) the distance and elevation) more relaxed: an initial The Naharlagun-Tawang with dense tropical forests descent of about 10km, circuit through Seppa is one and very few houses. There followed by a gradual climb of the prettiest but least- is a government guest up to Tawang, home to the explored cycling routes in house at Sagalee. majestic . Arunachal Pradesh, passing Day 2 Seppa to Nag Other route possibilities: through the lovely Pappu Mandir (131km) will be

66 67 tough. However, riding Day 3 Seppa to Nag through the beautiful Pappu Mandir/Dharja (110km) is Valley and along the vicinity also going to be of Pakke-Kessang Reserve challenging, with some off- h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

makes the strenuous ride road routes. To shorten the worthwhile. Seppa is the distance by about 50km, only town until you reach one has to take these off- Bomdila. There are several road routes, covered by a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e small restaurants in Seppa. dense jungle roads under Bomdila has plenty of stay construction, just a few and food options. kilometres after Seppa. Apart from a few Cycling to construction workers and a couple of small tribal hamlets, there’s no trace of civilisation here. At Nag Mandir, one can stay at a The path to Kibithu Pass c y c l i n g small resort or camp out by c y c l i n g the side of the Tenga River. all the way to Dirang, where and Salangam to Day 4 Nag Mandir to one can enjoy the amazing 45km), are mostly on pleas- Dirang through Tenga Valley beauty of the Sangti Valley. ant tarmac roads that run (77km) is an incredibly through tropical forests. The scenic route with the Tezu-Kibithu dhabas en route are the soothing sounds of (Five days) only places where you will freshwater streams along Days 1,2, 3 Like almost all see people, and these are the road. The forest here routes in Arunachal, this ideal places to camp at. Day changes from tropical to route, leading to the east- two ends at Hayuliang, a alpine. Soon after Tenga ernmost end of India, small town where you’ll find Valley, the steep climbs of involves lots of climbs. The government guest houses. Bomdila Pass begin, and first two days of the trip, Since the distance from thereafter an easy descent Tezu to Salangam (55km) Hayuliang to Walong is too

68 69 h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e c y c l i n g c y c l i n g

long to finish on a single called Chizwinti, in case you A camp on the way to Kibithu day, it’s better to take a don’t want to ride the 12km detour on day three from uphill route to Hawai. stay at a government guest where there’s a war Hayuliang to the hill town of Day 4 On day four, the house. memorial dedicated to the Hawai (65km), the head- route from Hawai to Walong Day 5 Walong to Kibithu Indian soldiers. While quarters of Anjaw district. (55km) is lovely, with ups and back (30+30km) is the returning, another option is Perched on a hilltop in the and downs, and the best part of this route, to take a detour towards clouds, Hawai has two gov- vegetation dissolves from involving a gradual climb up Dong Valley from Walong, ernment-run guest houses tropical to alpine, as you to Kibithu, with breath- where, after a four-hour for overnight stays. There is ride along the twists and taking old pines and a lush trek, you can also catch ‘the also another option to camp turns of the Lohit River. In green valley along the first sunrise in India’. Special between Hayuliang and Walong, you can either route. Check out the permission is required to Walong at a small hamlet camp by the riverside, or beautiful Namti Valley, enter Kibithu.

70 71 Photographs: sanjiv valsan h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e c y c l i n g c y c l i n g

Snapshots of the cycling trip from Roing to Anini

Roing to Anini, up the Mayudia Pass which at Dibang Valley 2,655m. This is the highest (Five days or more) motorable pass of the Days 1, 2 Take off from Mishmi Hills. Mayudia has Roing, where a relentless homestays, restaurants and climb up the Mishmi Hills basic rest houses, mainly begins, gaining a height of meant for the tourists who around 1,600m in the first come here to see snow 40km. Camp around this between winter and spring. area, or pedal ahead to A whole new impressive

72 73 sanjiv valsan world of high-altitude for- within 55–65-km of riding ests begins from here all the from . Some riders opt way to Anini. If you camp at for Karo, while others break the 40-km point on day one the journey into longer bits. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

instead of at Mayudia, day Etalin, which is 50km before two will be a 50-km-ride, Anini, is another possible ending at Hunli. From town halt. Mayudia, it is generally Days 4, 5 Karo to Amboli a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e downhill till Hunli town. (65km) along the Deban Day 3 The road conditions and Dree rivers, crosses deteriorate, with many short some great landscapes and but steep climbs. You can thickly forested hills, but this pick a suitable campsite patch is prone to landslides. The climb is arduous, Other Interesting making this the hardest day Cycling Circuits of all perhaps. The last day’s ride from Amboli to Anini c y c l i n g u Kibithu-Tezu-Roing- (30km) is a constant climb Detour to Basar c y c l i n g Anini uphill from around 1,200m u Miao--Parasuram to almost 1,700m, but on der. A more leisurely way to Tagin areas at / Kund-Roing-Anini- better roads. do it would be in a few Dumporijo, followed by the Pasighat-Dambuk-Roing stretches at a time. Galos from thereon, up to u Changlang-Khonsa- to Mechuka This is one long tribal Aalo and Kaying. After Tato, Borduria- (permit- (Modular route) cultural route, covering a huge Adi tribal belt ted for Indian nationals The basic route is Ziro- many tribes of Central begins, right up to only) Raga-Daporijo-Dumporijo- Arunachal Pradesh, and only Mechuka, where the Adi u Beginner-level Circuit: Maro-Tirbin-Aalo-Kaying- hardcore cyclists attempt to Ramo and Buddhist Lohit Valley-Namsai- Payum-Billey-Tato-Mechuka, do it in one stretch. Membas have their villages. Chokham, visiting all the with an option to extend it Beginning with the Apatani You might want to stop en monasteries en route to the pine forests of tribe at Ziro, the route route for several days at Yorlung near the Tibet bor- crosses Nyishi villages, multiple spots whenever

74 75 c y c l i n g a d v e n t u r e h o l i d a y s A cyclist arriving in Basar in arriving cyclist A 76 -Aalo the on detour ahead. ride the for up warm to way great a be can paddy of views beautiful with roads undulating less along village to village from riding delight; cultural multi-day a is Valleyitself Ziro within Cycling bicycle. a using journey cultural a tour,cycling a but not is this Basically strikes. curiosity After Tirbin, consider a consider Tirbin, After sanjiv valsansanjiv cycling/ [email protected]; [email protected]; E-mail: 7002296873 Akash 65012; 90380- Ajanta Contact: cyclists. passionate of community tightly-knit a are They bicycles. sells also and touring, and rentals bicycle in specialises Guwahati Spokehub Resources and Contacts Mechuka to Yorlung:to Mechuka 41km Tato52km Mechuka: to Tato:to Aalo 130km 63km Aalo: to Tirbin 82km Tirbin: to Dapo 87km Dumporijo: to Raga 74km Raga: to Ziro Distances: Assam. to on and Likhabali towards back cycle Basar,also From can you villages. surrounding the in treksinteresting many the explore to Basar to Road cycling tours in Arunachal. in tours cycling end-to-end organises W

facebook.com/spokehub- orth by North Cycling, North East ■

Phone: +91-360-2214745 |E-mail:[email protected] Govt. ofArunachalPradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India follow uson ArunachalTourism @ArunachalTsm Dreaming of unleashing your inner-child andgoingdown the Dreaming ofunleashingyourinner-child Arunachal pradesh Arunachal pradesh Cycling road onabicycle?HeadtoArunachalPradesh today! Department ofTourism

c y c l i n g birding wildlife& Photographs by shutterstock Do your homework Getting a good local birding guide is as important as reaching Arunachal. On the h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

more unconventional end of things, expert hunters can often make the best birding guides, and finding and a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e engaging them as birding guides gives them incentive to mend their ways and join conservation efforts.

It’s not just in the forest While birding in a g u i d e w i l d l i f e s

biodiversity hotspot like ’ & Arunachal, be sure to never Yellow-bellied fantail miss out on birding b i r d e r

A Birder’s Guide opportunities in cities and a birding the climbing required to villages en route to these TO ARUNACHAL reach the highest slopes. spots, where you’ll Thankfully, there are also invariably spend a night or ■ Siddhartha Sharma broad spectrum of habitats high-altitude spots in two. An early morning bird from tropical rainforests at Arunachal, which are walk in a town like Miao y any stretch of the lower elevations to connected by road, such as might throw up surprises. imagination, subtropical and temperate Mechuka, Mayudia Pass and You could spot a streaked BArunachal Pradesh is forests at mid-elevations Sela Pass, where you can spider hunter following a the holy grail of birders in and rhododendron catch snow birds that mixed hunting group of India. A massive altitudinal shrubbery to alpine pastures cannot be seen anywhere orange-bellied leaf birds, range of 200–4,500m above closer to the north. else in the Northeast short-billed minivets and sea level throws open a Provided you can manage without extreme climbs. nuthatches; sometimes even

80 81 the iconic sultan tit follows pied varieties. The Indian this kind of mixed hunting coral tree (Erythrina indica), group here. when it flowers, is a treat for birders in the Northeast. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Birding begins with trees Early mornings belong to Due to the enormity of the greater racket-tailed landscapes, spotting and drongo and the Asian fairy marking the right trees is blue bird, followed by the a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e your precursor to success, arrival of blue-throated and provided you know what great barbets. bird you’re looking for. Tall Myrtaceae family trees sal forests are home to the (Khokan as locals call it) with hornbill. Arunachal boasts flowers and pods are also a of housing all the hornbill favourite for flower peckers species in India, except the and leaf birds. Another tree g u i d e w i l d l i f e s

Narcondam and Malabar- from the same family is the ’ & Bottle brush, which is The striking sultan tit and (right) hornbills Streaked spider hunter popular among Arunachal’s b i r d e r

sunbirds. Bottle brush and Fruiting ficus trees are the fruit. The barbets and a birding similar bud-bearing trees popular with the hornbill pigeons treat any visit to a like the red nongmangkha and a variety of pigeons, fig tree as an end-of-season (Phlogacanthus sp) are a such as the green imperial sale, and carry mouthloads guaranteed stop for pigeon and the orange- of pickings back. The ashy sunbirds and spider hunters fronted green pigeon. While bulbuls and black bulbuls that take a sip before feeding on a ficus tree, it’s a also keep moving in mixed moving on to the next bud; treat to watch Arunachal’s flocks and prefer trees with if you linger for a while at iconic hornbills conserva- fewer leaves. the same spot, you might tively pluck the ripe fig and even be able to predict the toss it in the air to grab it Wetlands and stream sides bud on which the bird will back to the centre of their With several major river land for a sip. beak before actually gulping systems and some nine

82 83 months of rainfall every throated prinia. The year, landscapes in bamboo thickets that are Major Bird Species of Arunachal Pradesh Arunachal typically always typically found along the Hodgson’s frogmouth, feature waterbodies. Ghats, perimeters of tribal homes silver-eared mesia, sibias, h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

stream sides, river banks in Arunachal can be home long-tailed broadbill, and even mountain roads to the white-throated bulbul pied falconet, red-headed can offer brilliant and in their flock, one can and Ward’s trogon, Mrs opportunities to observe spot the even rarer black- Gould’s sunbird, fire-tailed a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e birds at eye level. Even light crested bulbul. These are sunbird, green-tailed conditions are better in such also great places to find sunbird, Himalayan monal, scenarios. Tall, grassy fields local flycatchers. Many small Sultan tit, golden-crested Blyth’s tragopan. on the outskirts of villages and shy birds from the myna, wreathed hornbill, Birding hotspots: West can be home to the munia warbler family can be brown hornbill, rufous- Kameng (Eagle Nest or even the more rare spotted along the bushes necked hornbill, Himalayan Wildlife Sanctuary), Sela parrotbill and black- near these bamboo groves, bluetail, white-bellied Pass between Tawang and g u i d e w i l d l i f e s

but chasing warblers heron, beautiful sibia, wren West Kameng, Pakke Tiger ’ & Greater racket-tailed drongo requires patience, both for warblers, barwings, green Reserve, Dibang Valley spotting as well as cochoa, purple cochoa, and Roing in Lower b i r d e r

identification. beautiful nuthatch, ibisbill, Dibang Valley. a birding For the ibisbill, crested kingfisher and wagtails, rocky river streams are a In Arunachal, never miss green magpie can be found good bet. Smaller rocky out on birds sitting near here. The best way to make streams and rivulets are undergrowth vegetation; birds comfortable is to sit home to forktails. Bigger rare birds such as the down quietly and wait forest streams inside are yellow-bellied fantail, patiently till they emerge. home to the brown dippers rufous-vented yuhina, You can find more and Blyth’s kingfisher. Taller shortwing, pin-striped tit- information by logging in to trees near the river banks babbler, silver-eared mesia, W ebird.org or from local are where you can spot the blue-winged siva (minla) and guides. Best Season: fish eagle. even the glorious common November to February. ■

84 85 Guneet narula Northeast Indian forests, it’s park, for which the following a precious stretch of options exist. Khari Forest paradise, and can be Rest House, 12km inside the reached through Seijosa in park, can be reached in 30 h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

the east, Bhalukpong in the minutes by a vehicle or in 3 west or Pakke Kessang in hours by foot. The Rest the north. Visitors are spoilt House overlooks the Khari for choice as far as River and, if you’re lucky, a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e accommodation and you might have sightings of activities are concerned. the elephant, gaur, barking There are jungle camps, deer and sambar from the homestays and tea comfort of the watchtower. bungalows promising a Plenty of birds can also be comfortable stay. Most of spotted from here. these include riverside r e s e r v e w i l d l i f e A view of Pakke Tiger Reserve experiences, bird and Pugmark of a tiger & butterfly walks and other t i g e r ways of getting to know the Pakke Tiger Reserve local flora and fauna. The birding Tiger Reserve can be p a k k e ■ Devathi Parashuram as the critically endangered accessed from two points— white-rumped vulture, the Seijosa on the southern akke Tiger Reserve endangered white-winged boundary and Tippi on the accounts for some 20 wood duck and the western boundary. Seijosa is Pper cent of Arunachal vulnerable rufous-necked connected to Guwahati and Pradesh’s East Kameng hornbill. Tezpur in Assam. District. This extremely bio- Pakke is among the diverse spot has 103 largest continuous blocks of Seijosa Range mammal species, including tropical forest in India. You can either stay in six endangered mammals Essential for maintaining Seijosa and visit the Tiger and 296 bird species such contiguity within the Reserve or stay inside the Guneet narula

86 87 Saniya Chaplod If you spend the night at There are quite a few Khari (remember to carry short treks around Khari, your own food, which can which can easily be done in be easily bought at local half a day. The 16-km-trek h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

stores), you can opt to stay to Khari pukhri and back is at the Rest House or in highly recommended. It is tents. The tents are a great moderately difficult with a option because you can steep gradient near the a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e experience the forest come end. You will need to set alive at night and sleep out very early in the under the Milky Way. morning and carry food with you, but it’s absolutely Sibia worth it. The pukhri is a magical The green setting of a Nyishi village place. It is a large forest r e s e r v e w i l d l i f e pool girdled by large trees. Bank is located at the side of the Pakke River in & On my first visit there, we entrance to the Tiger Lanka village, Seijosa. It has t i g e r watched in awe as a flock of Reserve. Sukanala and Jaali a stunning hilltop view of 16 great hornbills flew nala are the nearby the Tiger Reserve and the birding across the clear, blue sky seasonally dry streams gushing river down below. p a k k e directly above the surface of which are great to explore Lanka also offers some nice the still green pool. The because of the plant birding trails. You can hardened trekker can go diversity along the edges. contact Mr Tagi Heyo ahead from here to the Nalas have better visibility (+91-8134864034) for rates Khari pung, a natural salt- and are, therefore, good and bookings. lick, which attracts mammals places to spot birds and are and birds alike. excellent mud-puddling Tippi Range The Forest Department sites for butterflies. Tippi (4km from offers two other options for (2) The Lanka Rest House is Bhalukpong) and the accommodation: (1) The 14km away from the park Kameng River mark the Forest Rest House at West and located on the other western boundary of Pakke Sanjiv valsan

88 89 Aparajita Datta Tiger Reserve. It’s definitely the banks of the Kameng worth a visit because of the River. The Bhalukpong Ghat dramatic change in land- anti-poaching camp (where scape from the plains and you can also opt to stay) h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

rolling hills of the Seijosa and the western side of the range to a much sharper Tiger Reserve can be relief. Tippi can be reached accessed after crossing over by road from Seijosa in on a boat. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e under two hours (80km). Hotels and tourist lodges Pakke Paga are available in Bhalukpong Hornbill Festival town, but we would recom- Paga is the Nyishi word for mend staying at the Tippi the great hornbill. Having Forest Rest House, which been celebrated in Seijosa boasts a scenic location on during the second or third r e s e r v e w i l d l i f e week of January since 2015, & A wildflower in Pakke this festival is centred t i g e r around wildlife and high- A scene from the Pakke Paga Hornbill Festival lights the role of the Nyishi birding community in conservation by Chief Minister Pema and hornbill roost site p a k k e efforts in the area. It has Khandu. The three-day festi- watches. Food stalls made helped in creating aware- val is hosted in Darlong vil- entirely of bamboo serve ness about the state, its lage, Seijosa. The venue is a local cuisine and apong (rice people, cultural and wildlife beautiful spot on the banks beer) from various districts heritage, and can potential- of the Pakke River with the of Arunachal, while NGOs ly help boost eco-tourism in tiger reserve in the back- working in the area and the the area, providing greater drop. Activities in and Arunachal Pradesh Forest incentive for the local com- around the ground include Department have interest- munity to participate in con- street plays, traditional local ing posters, activities and servation. In 2018, PPHF sports, cultural programmes, merchandise at their stalls. was declared a state festival village walks, river walks, At the 2019 festival, the Tali Nabam

90 91 arjun kamdar Virtual Reality booth set up huddle with the family by the Forest Department around the hearth and listen was a huge hit. to folk stories and songs. If you ask nicely, they might h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Local Homestays and the even dress you up in Nyishi Pakke Jungle Camp attire! Rice is the staple Located in Darlong village, along with boiled vegetables Rasham Brah and his family (usually leafy) and meat. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e have a quaint room adjoin- Another homestay is located ing their chang-ghar or in Mabuso-II, a small village traditional Nyishi bamboo with only three other houses. house on raised wooden It’s a little over 14km away stilts. In the mornings, you from the entry gate to can have tea on the porch Seijosa and involves crossing outside, and in the evenings, a river with a 4WD vehicle or r e s e r v e w i l d l i f e on foot during the monsoon, A sunbird feeds on nectar in the Pakke Tiger Reserve & Pakke Jungle Camp when the water level rises. t i g e r These homestays cost visits to the Tiger Reserve the Delta Company, the `1,500–2,000/night, can be arranged. You can locals will. Eaglenest is birding inclusive of food. contact Suresh Pait for tucked away on the western p a k k e The Pakke Jungle Camp bookings (+91-9402037005, boundary of Arunachal is a community initiative run +91-8416090151). Pradesh, close to Bhutan. by the Ghora-Aabhe Set up in 1989, Eaglenest Society, a local NGO. It’s Eaglenest Wildlife today hosts over 600 spe- located in A2 village, 10km Sanctuary cies of birds. away from the entry gate. The drive from the Pakke There are four cottages with Tiger Reserve to the Rafting attached bathrooms in the Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary The Kameng River is a tribu- camp here. Activities such is a visual treat. If the driver tary of the Brahmaputra and as village and river walks, doesn’t entertain you with one of the most recent to bird/butterfly walks, and tales of military valour by open up to whitewater raft- guneet narula

92 93 birding & w i l d l i f e a d v e n t u r e h o l i d a y s 94 costs this but hours, six about take will which Seijosa, to directly Guwahati from cab a hire to is option Another Seijosa. TezpurTezpurand to to Guwahati from daily available buses regularare There Guwahati. to flight a take to is reach to way best the India, Northeast (230km). Guwahati Tezpurin and (60km) are airports nearest The Seijosa to Getting offeredonline. expeditions and tours rafting of plenty areThere rapids. difficult to moderate offers It ing. (60km). Rangapara and (47km) Charali Biswanath (36km), Choibari at are stations (40mins). Choibari or (90mins) Balipara Tezpurlike route, (2hrs), en towns other the of some from cab a Youhire also can If you are flying into flying are you If The nearest railway nearest The ` 5,000–6,000.

12–34°C Temperature:April. to ber Tezpur.in gate. entry the from 4km Seijosa, Upper at Community repellent February to November from visiting l l l l l l Essentials: jeeps can also be hired. be also can jeeps Department Forest but fee, vehicle a paying on Pakke inside allowed are taxis vehicles/ Private Seijosa. in one hire to expensive more it’ssince Choibari, much at done be can This Seijosa. in stay your of duration the for taxi it’sa hire to best so issue Transportan be can Transport l l Best time to visit: Novem- visit: to time Best is hospital nearest The nearest The Medicines: repellent/tick Mosquito Binoculars Walking/trekkingshoes you’re (if clothes Warm jacket Umbrella/rain ealth Centre is Centre Health

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Arunachal pradesh Arunachal pradesh Paragliding paragliding andwe’resureyou’llreachCloud9. Fancy beingintheclouds?HeadtoMechuka for follow uson ArunachalTourism @ArunachalTsm Phone: +91-360-2214745 |E-mail: [email protected] Govt. ofArunachalPradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Department ofTourism

Photographs by sanjiv valsan deeply intertwined with the forests around. Their most striking belief is that they consider the tiger to be h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

their elder brother and hence are strong propo- nents of big-cat conserva- tion and do not permit its a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e hunting. A tiger that has been inadvertently killed in an encounter of any kind receives the same kind of funeral that a human being would get. Similarly, other large w i l d l i f e mammals such as the serow, v a l l e y

& black bear and Mishmi takin A boisterous stream in Anini are governed by a set of Dibang Valley taboos that restrict the d i b a n g birding forests to high alpine and number of animals killed ■ Arjun Kamdar massive altitudinal range snow grasslands. and seek to harvest these (700–5,000m above sea wild resources in a limited he Dibang Valley, one level) and geographical The Idu Mishmi Tribe: manner. Though it’s of the last wild area, you will find Malayan, Keepers of the Cats incredibly difficult to spot a Tfrontiers on the Oriental, Palearctic, and A majority of the population tiger here, the upper planet, is where the roaring Indian realms of wildlife in comprises the Idu Mishmi reaches of Dibang Wildlife waters of the Yarlung the region. These vast tribe who share an incredi- Sanctuary at the northern- Tsangpo of Tibet take a woods extend from dense, bly intricate relationship most tip of the country also U-turn and flow into India as wet evergreen forests with the forests and biodi- hold the record for being a tributary of the through mixed temperate versity of the region; their the highest altitude where Brahmaputra. Owing to its and verdant bamboo customs and traditions tigers have been recorded

96 97 Poorva Goel in the country, earning them to the respect accorded to the title of ‘snow tigers’ in these cats by the Idu newspaper headlines. What Mishmis. As of now, Dibang the news reports don’t has the highest density of h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

glamorise enough though, wild cats in India, with seven is that the majority of the species being recorded— tigers documented through the tiger, leopard, clouded camera trapping in Dibang leopard, marbled cat, a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e were actually outside the golden bay cat, leopard cat official wildlife reserve, not and unconfirmed records of within, suggesting that the snow leopard. Dibang’s conservation What sets Dibang apart success story is more thanks from the other wildlife reserves in the country is King cobra that it has no motorable w i l d l i f e roads; the only way to visit v a l l e y

& the park is to trek through An artist’s depiction of the Linsang it. This leads to a very intimate understanding of Lower Dibang as buses unload their pas- d i b a n g birding the forest as one can see Valley: Roing sengers here. how the landscape, the The now easily accessible The dense, evergreen vegetation and the fauna town of Roing is a base for forests of the Himalayan change with an increase in travelling to Anini and foothills in the vicinity of altitude towards the Indo- beyond, the last place with Roing are home to a host of Tibetan border; from the creature comforts such as rare biodiversity such as the broad-leafed evergreen hot water, internet and fast eastern hoolock gibbon forests to bamboo brakes food. Roing is the quintes- whose loud whooping calls and swamp peats, sub- sential small, foothills-of- reverberate through the tropical pine, temperate the-Himalayas town with a jungle, along with calls of conifers and shrubs, and sleepy bazaar characterised sultan tits, scarlet minivets, alpine meadows. by pulsed peaks of activity maroon orioles and white- Siddhartha Sharma

98 99 cheeked partridges. The recorded in the region floodplains of the though infrequently Brahmaputra that form spotted. Mehao Lake, part grasslands around Roing are of the Mehao Wildlife h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

also home to species with Sanctuary (which dissolves very specific habitats such into the fringes of Roing as the slaty-backed forktail, town itself), is a must for black-throated parrotbill, birding and flora a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e marsh babbler, golden- enthusiasts, and is only headed cisticola, and accessible through trekking. striated grassbird. The critically endangered Bengal Activities and florican has also been Accommodation (Roing) A visit to the bazaar is a Camping in Dibang Valley good idea to pick up some w i l d l i f e v a l l e y

local, organic goodies; & green leafy vegetables, Enjoying a barbecue by the river at dusk small mounds of the red-hot capsaicin-loaded chilli pep- their handicrafts. Mishmi relax. The town’s Mini Zoo d i b a n g birding pers and organic oranges Hills Camp located a few shares a boundary with the being offered by old ladies, hundred metres off the main property but is in a rather a pork-seller, a shop selling road along the serene Eze dilapidated state. intricately patterned copper- River is frequented by trav- handled machetes, and ellers interested in exploring Mayudia Pass to Anini freshly harvested honey sold the region for wildlife and Although most wildlife in Royal Stag whisky bottles adventure. The comfortable enthusiasts that visit the pepper the market. Idu tents, wood and bamboo Mishmi Hills travel from Mishmis are also known to cottages and warm hospital- Roing, up to Mayudia Pass, be the best weavers in the ity of the owner, Mr Jibi we would recommend the state, and Roing town has Pulu, make it a wonderful day’s journey up to Anini at least three stores selling place to simply unwind and and exploring the regions

100 101 around there as they host a marked up by about 20 per greater range of flora and cent or so. fauna. Anini is the district From Anini, there are headquarters where most of two roads that diverge and h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

the sparse population is both are less travelled! One concentrated. There are snakes along the Mathu only a couple of places to River to Mipi, which Captain stay here: Dutta’s Morshead, who attempted a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e (+91-9402649283) rudimen- to map the region in 1912, tary lodge and the govern- described as “the going ment circuit house. There was extremely hard, as are also a few general stores the incessant rain and the although everything is rapid melting of the snow on the hills had combined Mayudia Pass to render the whole country w i l d l i f e a morass.” v a l l e y

& This is the trade route Stopping on a high-altitude snowy road that the Mishmis used when bartering skins, medicinal massive bamboo rat Mammals d i b a n g birding plants and grain for salt with gnawing away at the roots The Mishmi Hills are hands- the Tibetans. of the bamboo while the down one of the most spe- This route makes for a beautiful sibia and great cies-rich places in terms of picturesque trek (though barbet call from the canopy. mammal diversity in the having to cross over It is also a good spot for the country. The elusive Mishmi swaying, rickety bamboo fire-tailed myzorni and the takin, a golden-brown goat- bridges!) with a host of green-tailed sunbird. This antelope living in the higher interesting biodiversity. region is also dotted with altitudes, can be spotted While trekking through the natural ‘salt-licks’ which here, particularly in the bamboo forest, if one is herbivores frequently visit, months of June and July completely silent, you can thus increasing the when they congregate hear the sound of the probability of spotting one. around sulphur hot water

102 103 Shutterstock springs. The white-cheeked Arunachal Pradesh. There macaque, a recently discov- are also two species of ered species of monkey, is musk deer found here, the found in the mid-elevation alpine and the Himalayan. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

belt along with the Additionally, there are a Gongshan barking deer that host of small mammals such was reported for the first as red panda, stoat, linsang, time from India. weasel, Himalayan masked a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e As one moves up along civet, pika and the Asiatic the altitudinal gradient, one wild dog that abound these can spot the red goral, a forests. Leopard cats often mountain goat found sit on the cement parapet exclusively in this part of constructed along the road to Dambein. Mishmi takin w i l d l i f e v a l l e y

Birds & Dibang Valley is considered Chestnut-breasted partridge a birdwatcher’s paradise, with close to 700 species of It was discovered by the birdwatchers. The spot- d i b a n g birding birds being documented ‘birdman of India’, Dr Salim breasted parrotbill is seen here, a major portion of the Ali, in 1947 and was not around the villages of 1,300 bird species that India seen again until a bird- Mihundo and Alinye along boasts. The most sought-af- watcher recorded its call with the slender-billed ter bird that draws people in 2004. scimitar babbler. The from all corners of the world Strikingly beautiful coniferous forests with long is the critically-endangered pheasants such as the multi- old-man’s-beard moss and highly elusive Mishmi coloured Sclater’s monal, hanging from the branches wren-babbler, a miniscule the crimson-orange Blyth’s is also the favourite haunt of bird that flits around in the tragopan and chestnut- the Ward’s trogon; named undergrowth and is found breasted partridge are also after the botanist who nowhere else on the planet. high on the wishlist of explored this region in the Shutterstock

104 105 early 1920s. The blue- De Nicéville’s windmill but- winged siva, black-throated terflies, which are extremely sunbird, golden-breasted rare and given the highest fulvetta, fulvetta protection status according h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

and streak-throated barwing to the wildlife laws. The are small but fascinating rather interesting bird-poop birds to keep an eye out for. frog is also found in the mid elevations. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Microfauna Though understudied, some Mithuns of the microfauna of the The mithun is a large semi- Mishmi Hills stand out, such domesticated bovine that as the Khaki silverline and plays an integral role in the culture of the Idu Mishmis. Khaki silverline butterfly It is not only a sign of their w i l d l i f e v a l l e y

prosperity but is also sacri- & ficed in all of their festivals Idu Mishmis during a shamanic ritual at Etalin and important events such as weddings and personal ing, lest you should feel slight swelling of the limbs, d i b a n g birding Reh festivals. their cold sliminess and pick though this ceases to hap- them off! However, leeches pen with subsequent bites. Leeches and damdums are the more benign of the Wearing full pants and The Mishmi Hills are notori- bloodsuckers once you get shirts offers some protection ous for sly, blood-sucking to know damdums. from damdums while leech leeches. Leeches here are a These miniscule insects, socks suffice for the leeches. shade smarter than the smaller than a mosquito, However, both leeches and average, they not only drop pack quite a punch with damdums’ presence is down on you but also wait their bites that cause very almost negligible in winters in the folds of your clothes itchy painful welts to swell. owing to the rather low until they are the same tem- For most people, the first temperatures that are not perature as you before bit- bite is associated with a conducive to their survival. Shutterstock

106 107 Food and wine Anini also cultivating Rice beer, known as yew in their own yeast to ferment Idu, plays a huge role in the the wine. everyday life of the Idus; the h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

day is incomplete without Festivals laughing around the roaring The Idus celebrate their ani- fire in the centreplace of the mist festivals with great stilted bamboo longhouse gusto and fervour. A signifi- a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e (changghar) with a glass of cant festival is the new, thick yew had in a bamboo ‘centralised’ form of their mug. Interestingly, each otherwise ancient Reh ani- household brews its own mist ritual that is held yew with the villages around around the first week of February for the community Yew, the local grain wine to come together as a fra- w i l d l i f e ternity. Ke-meh-ha is the tra- v a l l e y

& ditional harvest festival cele- A woman preparing Idu Mishmi fare brated in September. canopy offers poor shooting 57180) for mammals and d i b a n g birding Contact Points conditions even at mid-day. birds. Gaurav Kataria runs As the fauna is It is advisable to hire guides birding camps in the region unaccustomed to human who are well-informed as well (09999030436, presence in these sparsely- about the natural history of email: info@eaglenest travelled through forests, the region as they have a birding.com); Tine Mena they are highly skittish and fair idea about potential (09436875102, 089742- wary of people thus offering spots for particular animals. 99357), the first woman only a fleeting glimpse. You can contact Binanda Everester from Arunachal, Photographers will require a Hatiboruah (09435271651, and Iho Mitapo, a local good zoom lens and a 09954861743), for bird- environmentalist, run the camera that does well in watching and Ravi Mekola Mishmi Hills Trekking low-light as the dense (09774748828, 094024 Company can also help. ■

108 109 Monpa Buddhist tribe initially couldn’t figure out A day in Zemithang: refrains from hunting, and what or who humans were. reveres wild animals to a Finally, out of confusion, he h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

A wildlife filmmaker’s diary certain degree, in turn lead- sneezed loudly, which is ing to better chances of their alarm call, and darted ■ Omar Khan areas, and going on foot is sighting wildlife. Driving down with the rest into the not everyone’s cup of green from Zemithang to T-Gompa valley below. a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e runachal Pradesh has tea. Once in a while, one cold September morn- But the day wasn’t over the highest however, you can have a ing, we first came across a yet. Ahead, on the same Amammalian diversity, really lucky day. goshawk feeding on a road, were blood spoor, more than any other state in blood pheasant it had just with tufts of hair. And, the country. But unlike the Tawang to Zemithang killed at a bend. finally, seeing a large stain case with birds, spotting In the northwesternmost A few kilometres ahead, on a rock, we parked the mammals in these areas can part of Arunachal lies the a herd of goral were car to investigate once w i l d l i f e be a Herculean task for a district of Tawang, a moun- sunning themselves on the again. A large animal, z e m i t h a n g &

wildlife filmmaker because tainous region with abun- ledges. Sneaking up to the probably a yak, was most in the jungles are so dense. dant waterfalls, high-altitude small band, a few metres likely injured and being

The terrain does not allow lakes and panoramic views away, we were undetected. chased by a predator, and d a y birding for road access to core of snow-capped peaks. The One of the curious juveniles had to run downhill. a

110 111 shutterstock Tracking the path led to hiked back up to the car more tufts of hair, more and pretended like he was blood spoor and some talking on the phone loudly, small rocks. Finally, in a walking further and further h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

deep ravine, was the carcass with his voice, to let them of a young yak, and pug ‘deduce’ that humans were marks of the dhole, or the leaving, and it was safe to Indian wild dog, a species break cover. Just as he was a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e that’s even more fading out of earshot, some endangered than the tiger rustling and whimpering (which is also found in began; a small pack of five Arunachal). The yak was a dholes emerged, and began fresh kill, its body still warm. eating to their heart’s con- The dholes had purposely tent. They feasted greedily and strategically driven it to for the next two hours, and w i l d l i f e this steep rocky area, where several minutes of great z e m i t h a n g &

it had fallen on the rocks footage was the result. Indian wild dog in and broken its legs, before Moving onwards with our

they overpowered it. journey, some five kilome- 2013, when I went to recce There are homestays availa- d a y birding tres from T-Gompa was an its forests and the mysteries ble in the area and there is a Lateral thinking animal on a tree right next they held. also dormitory accommoda- In such situations, it’s some- to the road where we Little did I know then tion at T-Gompa, which is a times best to install a cam- stopped for tea. Turns out that I’d keep coming back short distance from ouflage tent a few metres there were two of them, the every year to explore a new Sangetsar lake, a popular from the kill and wait it out. fluffy red pandas. The part of the state, stack up tourist destination. An This didn’t work, initially. camera batteries were some memories only to optional drive that can be Nothing happened for two nearly exhausted, but there head back again! done is from Zemithang on hours, and we decided to was just enough left for a the west towards Lumpu try something new to fool few shots. The place village, and then onwards the intelligent, strategy- My first foray into Zemithang is a village about on foot to sight the rare minded dogs. One of us Arunachal Pradesh was in 80km from Tawang town. red panda. ■

112 113 angling rafting& Photographs by Nino Dai and joins the Kameng River. You will require rafts to reach spots that are inacces- sible by foot, where the h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

sensitive mahseer normally swims about. Ensure that you get expert river guides, as the river has some a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e treacherous rapids. The bhorali, another fighting fish, has also been seen in the lower sections of the river near Assam. If your ambition is to hook a mon- ster mahseer, then you must make sure that your equip- ment is up to the mark. a n g l i n g Strong rods with braided a n g l i n g lines and leaders are the order of the day. A mini- snakehead and bhorali. mum of 30lbs braid is Angling in Arunachal Every river has different required, though normally inhabitants here. anglers go about with a ■ Nino Dai loves the fresh, fast-flowing minimum of 50lbs. Himalayan rivers here. But The Kameng hen it comes to in all the excitement There are plenty of opportu- The Subansiri angling in surrounding the mahseer, nities to catch the exotic The ‘River of Gold’ has WArunachal one ought not to forget the golden mahseer here. The always been the ultimate Pradesh, the first fish that goonch, chocolate or best areas are after Bana, destination for golden, one can think of is the copper mahseers, rainbow where the Bichum River chocolate and the very rare golden mahseer, which trouts, brown trouts, flows from the Dirang area copper mahseer. This is cer-

116 117 tainly not an easy one, as it lures can range from plugs involves a rafting trip of five and spoons to spinners nights. There are no roads depending on the season. here; you are amid pure Heavy spoons or heavy h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

wilderness. sinking lures are best during The only downside is the the dry season. End of dam being built at the end monsoon trips can provide of the river, which is a good catch with soft lures a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e stopping fish migrating to and plugs near the river the upper areas for confluence. You can also try spawning. Again, if your bait fishing with a local, ambition is to hook a multipurpose insect called monster mahseer, then you the tari (stinkbug), which is must make sure that your highly effective! equipment is good. The The Siang This river normally intimi- Angler on the Subansiri a n g l i n g dates most anglers with its a n g l i n g enormous size, width and usual, as it was caught by in a safe and conducive depth. For most of the year, local fishermen. The lower environment can grow up to the river is coloured and sections of the river, close 30kg too, while the goonch muddy. It starts to clear up to Pasighat, are good for can grow up to 100kg here! by mid-November, and is at the snakeheads and bhorali. its best till March. While the The month of May can be The Simang world record for mahseers considered as active goonch The Simang River is a tribu- stands at 34.6kg approxi- season, the fish known as tary of the Siang, and flows mately, this river is home to ngoney or ngorik here. from its source, which is a golden mahseer monsters, Snakeheads, which are also high-altitude lake and a with the biggest found very popular game fish, spring originating in the being 37kg! This went un- grow to large sizes in the Mouling area. The river recorded internationally as Siang, up to 17kg! A bhorali flows past the villages of

118 119 Subley, Sine and Pareng river by the Dosing Social and the township of Boleng, Welfare Society (DSWS) has to finally meet the Siang. been a success story, and Fishing season is from May inspired the first Simang- h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

to September, when the Siang Angling Festival, river is high. It is primarily which attracted 87 anglers famed for the golden mah- from across the country. seer. The Simang-Siang a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e confluence is also a very The Dibang popular spot for fishing. The Dibang is fondly During the summer months, dubbed as ‘home of golden you can actually catch a mahseer’ due to the abun- goonch here on a lure! The dance of the fish in this conservation effort on this river. It is not easy to access the interiors of this river, but Big fish call for tough gear some operators do a great Camping on a river beach in Arunachal job at getting anglers to the a n g l i n g remote areas for a thrilling Papum-Poma Confluence tributaries; this is their a n g l i n g experience. This can involve Flowing next to Itanagar, spawning season. This is hiking a good distance, and this river is suitable for when they tend to be more if you are lucky, maybe even anglers on a short holiday. It predatory, and will swim crossing the river on an ele- is ideal for golden mahseer. after lures. This is why you phant! This river has many Start your trip from Itanagar can catch the goonch on a angling spots, but they are and end at Ram Ghat. lure at the Simang-Siang almost inaccessible except confluence. During the win- perhaps by rafting, which Seasonal Tip ters, when the water itself is tough, as it is also Angling in Arunachal recedes, the fish tend to one of the hardest rivers for depends on the season. hang around in pools above rafting! If you don’t catch a When the major rivers are or below rapids. This is fish on this river you still coloured, muddy and swol- when heavy quick-sinking won’t be disappointed. len, fish tend to swim into lures do the job. ■

120 121 Rafting In Arunachal

■ Nino Dai stricted, and of classes III–IV. h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

After the Bichum confluence runachal Pradesh’s near Bana, the volume of rivers can range from the river increases dramati- mellow and cally with one Class V rapid a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e A moderate to downright (depending on water levels) adrenaline-pumping when it and numerous Class IV rap- comes to whitewater rafting. ids till you reach Tippi, near Most major rivers here are Bhalukpong. The landscape ideal during the dry winter after the Bichum confluence season, which incidentally is is fantastic, especially near also the major tourist the Bana gorge. season. The smaller rivers Itinerary: Guwahati- are more viable during the Bhalukong-Seppa- r a f t i n g monsoon, when they swell Marjangla (385km) r a f t i n g in size and speed. Difficulty: Moderate to hard; safety kayaker recommen- Kameng ded, though it could also be The Kameng River in a raft-only trip Western Arunachal is great for rafting as it offers quite a Subansiri variety of difficulty levels. If This river is fantastic in you are rafting from every way! There are two Marjangla, it can be termed districts named after the as a proper river expedition. river—Upper Subansiri and From Marjangla to the Lower Subansiri. The river Bichum River confluence, flows from Upper Subansiri most of the rapids are con- into the boundary between

122 123 Nino Dai h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e r a f t i n g r a f t i n g

Kamle district and Lower gorges and forests. The rap- Rafters conquer tough rapids on the Subansiri . The popular ids are fun, and generally rafting ‘put in’ point is at not difficult to manoeuvre. Nearest Railhead: Silapathar Brahmaputra in India and either Sippi, Daporijo or The river beaches are also Driving distance: 280km Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibet. It Kuporijo, and rafting hap- excellent, making it an ener- from Dibrugarh is the most legendary river pens down to Gerukamukh gising experience overall. Difficulty: Moderately in Arunachal Pradesh. It is a (Assam) where the ‘take-out’ Carry some insect repellent, challenging part of one of the longest point is. It’s about 80km of especially during October river systems, flowing from pure fun and magic! Once and mid-to-late February, to Siang Manasarovar to Bangladesh! you raft past the township keep yourself safe from Mother of all rivers, people There are five districts of Dumporijo, you witness sand flies (damdum ). in the region call her ‘Ane named after this river, wilderness at its very best, Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh Siang’. The river is also namely Upper Siang, West with great water, beautiful and Lilabari known as the Upper Siang, Siang, East Siang and

124 125 Photographs: Ahtushi deshpande h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e

Rafting on a calm river stretch; kayaks take on the rapids (facing page)

Lower Siang. The conven- waters in the world, and you ient thing about the Siang is require expert and experi- r a f t i n g that it can be divided into enced river runners to guide r a f t i n g sections, according to raft- you through it. ing grades, from pro to Ranging from large- beginner-level. The first sec- volume Class IV and IV-plus tion is popularly known as to Class V rapids, this ‘Tuting down’ (Tuting is the section requires safety last administrative town in kayakers and catarafts. For the more traditional rafting, you before the McMahon line, can do the -down, and is the popular ‘put-in’ which satisfies many with its point, though some also opt combined rafting and to ‘put-in’ at Ningging cultural experience. This village). This section has section has some challeng- some of the best white ing rapids, and also

126 127 Nino Dai provides an opportunity to and kids. The Siang has visit local Adi tribal villages. huge river beaches the size The third section is Rottung- of a couple of football down. This is your bang-for- fields, a rare pleasure h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

buck section, for travellers among mountain rivers. who don’t have the time Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh and want to experience as Nearest Railhead: Murkong much as possible. The last Selek a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e section is the Bodak/ Difficulty: Moderate to hard Marying-down, which is Itinerary: Dibrugarh- more of a laidback float Pasighat-Jengging/ about and picnic trip for Yingkiong-Tuting (total those travelling with families distance 400km) Note: As of now, this is the most viable river for commercial rafting due to Subansiri River flowing through the eastern Himalayas ease of connectivity by road r a f t i n g and air. It is easier for the power of the water. Most of is prohibited for foreign r a f t i n g operators here to arrange the river, ironically, flows tourists, and can be expen- for good logistics. along the Anjaw district, sive for domestic tourists and not the who typically want just a Lohit that has been named after day of rafting in a profes- This is by far the most chal- it. Rafting on the Lohit is sional river with a Class V lenging river to tackle for a commercially viable along section. Nonetheless, it is a rafter. The Lohit is an the Parasuram Kund area great all-in-all, a majestic extremely beautiful river and has the potential to river, with great potential! with turquoise blue waters become popular if marketed Nearest Airport: Dibrugarh and powerful whitewater properly and well explored Itinerary: Dibrugarh- rapids. What you first expe- by professional rafters. -Chongkham- rience as a rafter here is the Unfortunately, the fun part Wakro-Hayuliang-Walong sheer sense of volume and of the river, around Walong, Distance: 250km ■ Ahtushi deshpande

128 129 paragliding Mechuka and Lumdung

■ Sanjiv Valsan trip. Even if you don’t get to h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

fly, there are still plenty of he rather meagre activities happening waiting-time to flying- simultaneously to quickly time ratio when it assuage any heartache from a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e T comes to paragliding in foiled paragliding plans. Mechuka can typically mean spending a lot of time Pappu Valley trekking up a hill with stuff, If Mechuka seems like too only to wait there for hours long a wait just for a nice for the perfect wind. This is view, Lumdung, in Pappu in addition to the time Valley, 19km from Seppa l u m d u n g already taken to even town, is the complete oppo- & reach faraway Mechuka. A site. There’s no need to hit rate of one or two flights climb (with paragliding gear) paragliding a day, at the most, is the atop cliffs at all, and takeoff

average here. and landing spots are both m e c h u k a There is a lot of potential close to roads. Landing to be tapped when it comes spots are surrounded by to paragliding in these hills; paddy fields from all sides this involves evaluating for several kilometres, and different spots over a period there are no high tension of time. As of now, most wires; if your gear is in good people come and fly during shape and you fly correctly, the annual adventure there are almost no chances festival, Adventure@ of fatal accidents resulting Mechuka in November, and from terrain conditions, that’s the time to plan your according to regular pilots

132 133 Photographs courtesy Paragliding Association of Arunachal here; the views cannot com- able for the Arunachal pare to those in Mechuka, of Paragliding Festival, which course, but they’re still pretty aims to become an annual good. Safety, convenience event attracting close to a h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

and consistency are pretty hundred pilots to Pappu compelling draws after all, Valley. Winds at Pappu and there is probably no Valley are generaly slow, and downside to it. The takeoff flying is best done after a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e (1,151m) faces south, and is 9.30am, after which things big enough for two or three are more consistent till about gliders to take off simultane- 2-3pm. Soaring can happen ously, while the landing till late in the day, and both (698m) doesn’t have tall mountain and flatland ther- trees or uneven landscapes mals are consistently large, in which you can get tan- meaning there are hours of Paragliding at Lumdung in Pappu Valley l u m d u n g gled. This made the site suit- flying possibilities, whether & you’re an experienced pilot, fields are no longer damp learner or tandem rider. (December and January). paragliding February onwards, rains can

Lumdung: Equipment hire spoil the show. m e c h u k a and Best Season Tandem rides: Cost `3,500, Pilots who cannot get their including the use of a own equipment can also GoPro and drop to and hire gear at Seppa for from Seppa town. `1,000–1,500, but these are generally slower, beginner- Where to stay level gliders for the moment Seppa town is 19km away. (Bruce Goldsmith 75–110 kg Homestays can be managed and Niviuk 55–75 kg). in the nearby Nyishi villages Thermals are best once the of Lumdung, Veo, Sede, paddy is harvested and the Seba, and Nere. The charg-

134 135 sanjiv valsan es have been kept extreme- equipment hire (094360 ly low for pilots flying at 41860, 08787597545) Pappu Valley to promote paragliding here, if you Mechuka h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

bring your own sleeping The Adventure@Mechuka bag and stay in a traditional (W adventureatmechuka.in) bamboo house with a Nyishi festival is the time for tribal family. These are tribal paragliding here, especially a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e village huts; Seppa has for tandem rides. more conventional hotels. Apart from paragliding, Contact: Vijay Sonam of the the schedule is generally Arunachal Paragliding packed with activities such Association for more as competitive angling, information on flying long-distance as well as conditions, tandem rides, downhill mountain biking, l u m d u n g accommodation and kayaking, local food and & The ethereal beauty of Mechuka Paragliding in Mechuka paragliding musical performances, and Learning Paragliding in

the standard at every festi- Arunachal m e c h u k a val in Arunachal these days, NIMAS Dirang is a great fashion shows! place to learn paragliding Mechuka’s hospitable from scratch, at an afforda- locals also open their homes ble cost, from qualified to visitors to stay during the trainers. Here, you can festival. Overall, it’s a great begin with ground training, entry into this beautiful and eventually progress to place and its wonderful three flights per day. They people, irrespective of generally practise in the how long you need to wait beautiful Sangti Valley, but for takeoff! also fly at Lumdung. ■ sanjiv valsan

136 137 travel essentials common language, since without a accommodation by a genuinely common tongue, none of these tribes hospitable tribal person you just met, THE PLACE Bhutan, China/ Tibet and Myanmar, would have been able to understand who refuses to accept money for it Arunachal Pradesh is over 81% forest along with a long history of exchange each other’s languages. English is also since it is against his culture and ethos h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

– these include tropical, sub tropical, and migrations from each of these spoken in towns, since it’s the medium to charge for food or stay. So it helps pine forests, temperate forests and places, and as far away as present-day of education. In Eastern Arunachal, to have a bunch of nice gifts ready in alpine forests, along with several sub- Mongolia. Officially, there are 26 major some Assamese is also spoken. Since your bag to give away in such types. It is one of the world’s most tribes with over 100 ‘sub-tribes’ and there are so many tribes here, tribal situations; these will be happily a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e unexplored biodiversity hotspots. dozens of languages, but in reality the festivals feature almost year-round, and accepted, and can sometimes go Climate varies with elevation (wide diversity is even more than these make for good bookmarks to plan an much better with the culture, unlike range between 50-7,000 mts msl), numbers suggest. Culturally and itinerary. Animist festivals, rituals and money. Alternatively, one could also ranging from humid subtropical, to geographically the state’s ethnics weddings almost invariably involve a buy handicrafts from them, since temperate, and cold, alpine at highest groups can be divided into some publicly visible animal sacrifice (it will nearly every woman in the villages is a elevations, where it can snow during broad categories – the Indo-Tibetan be eaten subsequently); the faint- textile weaver here, and most older winters. It experiences heavy rainfall of Mahayana Buddhist tribes such as the hearted might want to take note in men are adept at bamboo craft. In any 2000-4100mm annually. Rains begin Monpas, Sherdukpen, Brokpas and advance. Elderly people are highly case in some tribes, when you visit any e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

around February, but it’s most intense Membas; the animist Mishmi tribes respected in tribal societies, and senior old villager’s home, it is often between April and October. Most like the Idu Mishmis, Digaru Mishmis citizens have a good life compared to customary to bring small gifts in kind travellers plan their trip during the dry and Miju Mishmis; the ‘Tani Tribes,’ their urban counterparts. such as tea leaves, coffee, dry fish, dry t r a v e l t r a v e l winter months for obvious reasons, but such as the Nyishis, Apatanis, Galos, meat, etc; so it’s best to prepare flora tourism is year-round, since Tagins and various Adi tribes; and the Hospitality accordingly. At the end of your trip, if different species have different Theravada Buddhists like the The tribals of Arunachal are a warm, you have any extra gifts left, you could flowering seasons. Butterfly tours will Khamptis, Singphos; and the Indo- friendly, generous and cheerful lot, and give them to villagers away anyway obviously follow a similar pattern since Burmese tribes close to the Myanmar in general homestays are far more just to make people happy, leading to butterfly diversity follows flower border like the Tangsa tribes, Nocte interesting than hotels. Tourism is still new bonds, friendships and cultural diversity. groups and Wanchos, who share raw, infrastructure is just about coming exchange. cultural and ethnic similarities with up and creature comforts might not THE PEOPLE tribes in Nagaland and Myanmar. The always be possible in many places, but Safety To put the state’s diversity in major religions are Buddhism, this is all part of the adventure. You In general, this is a safer state for perspective, Arunachal Pradesh shares Christianity and various ethnic might even encounter situations where travellers (solo female travellers borders with Assam, Nagaland, animistic faiths. Hindi is used as a you will be offered food and homestay included) than many parts of India, and

138 139 robberies are extremely rare, especially Arunachal. These can be incredibly Guwahati airport and Ulubari, which is Getting in and out of Naharlagun in smaller towns and rural areas, and convenient, save lots of time and near the railway station in downtown railway station using public transport provided you exercise basic present great value for money; but Guwahati. Smartphone app-based all can be a confusing affair, especially for commonsense, it’s generally safe to safety and last-minute flight taxi services such as Ola and Uber are those catching early morning trains h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

trust in the hospitality of locals you cancellations can be a concern during otherwise the cheapest and most from Naharlagun. At the Itanagar end might meet. However, days typically rough weather. Additionally, you could reliable means to move around of things, the government-run APST begin and end early here, and streets suddenly find that your booking stands Guwahati town till you make your bus service has a bus service running and lanes in bazaar areas of small cancelled due an emergency medical onward journey. to and from Naharlagun railway station a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e towns are deserted late at night, so it’s case requiring quick transport. All and Itanagar/Naharlagun town, probably best not to pursue an things considered, it’s tricky to plan TRAINS coinciding with the departure and overactive nocturnal life in such areas. tight schedules relying on the chopper The most useful railways stations are arrival of major trains, but these are Villages are extremely safe, though. services during your return journey, Naharlagun (near the capital Itanagar), easier to reach from Naharlagun Dress code: moderately modest. when you have a flight already booked Silapathar, Jonai, Harmuti Jn. and railway station to Itanagar/Naharlagun that you absolutely don’t want to miss. Murkingselek (all on the same line in town than the other way around. GETTING THERE AND In our experience, here’s the smart way Assam) on one end; and Tinsukia and These ‘feeder service’ buses leave AROUND to use the choppers: Book your trip Dibruhgarh (Assam). Guwahati in downtown very shortly after the arrival e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

into Arunachal from Guwahati or Assam is also a useful interchange of each train, so get off the train AIRPORTS AND HELICOPTERS Mohanbari airport and some part of station, since it has a major airport and quickly if you need to catch them. The airports are Pasighat (weekly the onward journey by chopper, along connects Naharlagun, Tinsukia and Taxis are generally available at the t r a v e l t r a v e l flights from Kolkata), Tezu (to be fully with a ‘Plan B’ road plan, in case the Dibrugarh to most parts of India. Be railway station as well. functional soon), Guwahati chopper is cancelled; but be sure to warned that train travel to Arunachal (International, Assam), Dibrugarh/ plan your return trip back to the Pradesh is for strictly long haulers; The LOCAL PUBLIC TRANSPORT Mohanbari (Domestic, Assam - useful airport entirely by road to be on the fastest train from Delhi to Itanagar, for There’s a whole biodiversity in these for southern and eastern Arunachal), safe side. During rainy or stormy example takes close to 36 hours. category, ranging from the cheaper Lilabari (Domestic, Assam - closest to weather, avoid chopper rides involving Having said this, the trains on this state-run APST state buses, to private Itanagar), Tezpur (Assam, domestic, higher altitude mountains altogether. route are cleaner and better bus operators such as Network, and better for Western Arunachal). Regular Regular, comfortable, pay-per-seat maintained than the average Indian budget-friendly ‘Line Sumos,’ which helicopter services (operated by share taxis ply between Guwahati standard, especially the Rajdhani and are basically cramped share SUV taxis SkyOne) connect Mohanbari/Dibrugarh Airport and Itanagar, and reasonably intercity express trains from plying between different towns and and Itanagar (via its twin city priced air conditioned buses leave Naharlagun, and reservations aren’t villages, with a medley of Bollywood Naharlagun) to a few headquarters in every half hour or so between difficult to get, even last minute. songs sometimes playing nonstop

140 141 along the route. Line taxis penetrate basically share-taxis that ply along the to adventurous, off-roader style almost unheard of in these parts; so if deeper into Arunachal than the other long arterial road covering the length rollercoaster experiences. Don’t be you’re planning on cycling, either get modes, and reach fast as well. Booking of both Itanagar and Naharlagun, and fooled by linear distances between your own, rent a bike from Assam or more than one seat per traveller (2 or on to and the Banderdewa two points the map — negotiating get your tour operator to make the h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

3 seats) could still work out cheaper Gate, forming the border with Assam. rough, zigzaggy mountain roads can arrangements. than hiring your own car, let you At night, even these services stop, and account for biggest component of control the music (!) and can often be the rickshaws nearly triple their rates. travel time in Arunachal, especially if ATMs, cash, Communication, Internet: a more acceptable compromise Even later into the night (post 9pm) you’re planning several regions of this Be sure to stock up on cash, because a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e between cost and comfort when you you will often find no transport at all, large state on the same trip. It’s always in many interior places you’d want to don’t have your own car. Or better yet, at any price! So it’s best to have a car a good idea to enquire not just about visit, credit card payment isn’t if travelling in a big group, hire the in Itanagar, especially if you plan to distances, but also road conditions, possible, and ATMs are also known to whole vehicle by booking all 10 seats, return to your room late at night. while charting out your routes. It rains run out of cash intermittently. Most which can oddly still work out cheaper Towns like Roing in Lower Dibang here for nearly nine months of the urban and semi-urban and village than ‘hiring a car.’ Safety-wise, this can Valley , however have more reasonably year, so this is worth keeping in mind, areas have cellphone coverage, but be a particularly smart choice on tricky priced and reliable auto-rickshaws, so especially if you’re cycling or the operator may vary, so carrying dual routes and difficult mountain roads, local public transport varies greatly motorbiking. Road conditions are best SIM phones or multiple phones is e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

where the Line Sumo driver who does from town to town. By and large, it’s in the dry season (Oct-Feb), when road advisable if connectivity is vital during a certain route daily would know the best to have your own vehicle, should travel times are a lot faster. your stay. You can be sure however, terrain better than someone who’s less you choose to travel without an Regular Indian driving licenses are that many of the most beautiful forests t r a v e l t r a v e l familiar with the place. Most towns operator who arranges everything for valid in Arunachal, but try and avoid in Arunachal will not have mobile have a bazaar area, where you’ll find you. Whatever the case, rush hour negotiating rough mountain roads in coverage, so prepare accordingly. For the ‘counter’ where you can enquire traffic in Itanagar is real, and you want foggy or stormy weather at night; in internet, you’ll have to depend on about bus and Line taxi services, and to avoid being in it. some instances travel on this routes your cellphone and hotspots most of even hire private cars. Bookings can may be officially closed during this the time. A power bank can also be subsequently happen even over the ROAD TRAVEL time to ensure that mishaps are handy during power cuts, especially in phone, and payment is strictly cash Driving into Arunachal always involves avoided; it’s safest to either wait till the remote areas. India Post’s ‘Speed Post’ only. crossing Assam, where the roads are light or weather clears up, or get a service interestingly works better in much better, but once you enter hilly person who’s familiar with the area to Arunachal Pradesh than most parts of Itanagar town has expensive three- terrain, the story changes. Mountain drive. Arunachal Pradesh may be a India, and can be useful in smaller wheeler ‘auto-rickshaws’ and cheap road conditions in Arunachal can vary mountain biking paradise, but towns and villages, where private ‘Trackers’ and ‘Tempos,’ which are from buttery smooth and comfortable spontaneously renting bicycles is courier companies don’t operate.

142 143 PERMITS AND BORDERS community-managed or private 3. Office of Deputy Resident villages and towns, and above that the property, so avoid fishing, harvesting Commissioner, Arunachal Bhawan, Divisional Commissioner (DC). It helps Arunachal Pradesh lies on India’s from orchards or farms excessive Kolkata and Guwahati. to decide on the districts you are likely border with Bhutan, China/Tibet and foraging without permission. In the 4. Department of Home, Government to visit while planning your trip itself, h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Myanmar, but for the moment, tourists Nocte and Wancho tribal villages of of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar. because the ILP is generally issued only aren’t allowed to cross over into these Tirap and Longding, it’s generally a 5. Department of Tourism, a few districts at a time, and often not countries from Arunachal via these good idea as an outsider to meet the Government of Arunachal Pradesh, valid if you cross over to another borders, either with or without the local king or chief as a courtesy visit, Itanagar. district which isn’t on your ILP, making a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e relevant visas. Indians and Myanmar and in his absence, the village spontaneous travel complicated for citizens are occasionally allowed to ‘Gambura.’ In other tribes, having any PAPs aren’t issued to tourists in certain first-timers. To renew, extend your ILP cross the near local contact from the village will do. sensitive border areas such as some or add a different district on your pass, , in for a These meetings can be useful parts of Changlang, Tirap, Longding if you don’t choose the online route for day, but lately, this passage has been icebreakers and set the tone for some districts. Check if where you want to whatever reason (such as temporarily opened to the general public good interactions. travel in Arunachal is a no-go zone for not having internet or electricity), you’d somewhat less consistently. tourists. Researchers, scientists, etc need to submit a written application to Travel Permits for Foreign might be able to travel to these parts, the local DC or ADC. These offices are e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Entering reserve forest areas and Travellers however in special cases, provided they of course, closed on public holidays. militarily or politically sensitive Foreign tourists in groups of 2 or have received a local invitation and Keep passport-sized photographs and border areas might require special more (single for travel to Tawang have proper projects in these places. photocopies of your ID handy t r a v e l t r a v e l permission from the concerned and Ziro) need to apply for a authorities, such as the local Forest Protected Areas Permit (PAP), which Travel Permits for IndianTravellers Apply for ILPs online here: Range office, army authorities, DC, costs US$30 (valid for 30 days). You’d Though an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is www.arunachalilp.com ADC, etc. In general, additional need to apply for these through local mandatory for Indian citizens to enter permissions from local authorities are tour operators. Arunachal Pradesh, getting it is a Hardcopy ILP applications are also required for sport angling or river simpler process than it is for foreigners, received and issued by the rafting, which your tour operator PAP is issued from the following offices and with fewer restricted areas. Every following offices will manage. Foreigners aren’t allowed to foreign travellers: district in Arunachal Pradesh has a 1. Delhi to enter certain border areas of 1. Ministry of Home Affairs, similar administrative structure. Above The Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh. Unlike in other Government of India, New Delhi the village and local authorities are Arunachal Pradesh,Kautilya Marg, parts of India, most forests and water 2. Office of Resident Commissioner, Circle Officers, Additional Divisional Chanakyapuri, New Delhi. bodies in tribal areas are either Arunachal Bhawan, New Delhi Commissioners (ADC) in the bigger Tel: 011-23013915

144 145 2. Kolkata nagar, Tezpur,Assam - 03712-260173 International Airport AIRLINE OFFICES The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 03712-260173, 260141 Airport Director Tel 0361-2841909 AIR INDIA Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, CE-109, Cell 09435521735 W aai.aero Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkata. 6. Dibrugarh AIRLINE OFFICES h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Tel 033-23341243, 23589865 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, AIR INDIA INDIGO Cell 09830822512 Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Toll Free 18602331407 W airindia.in Tel: 0124-6173838 3. Guwahati Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam Cell 09910383838 The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tel 0373- 2382560/2382738. ALLIANCE AIR W goindigo.in a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, GS Road 7. From the office of all the Deputy Toll Free 18602331407 Rukminigaon opposite Manasa Mandir, Commissioners of 25 Districts of W airindia.in/alliance-air SPICEJET Dispur, Guwahati the state. Cell 09871803333 Tel 0361-2229506 GO AIR W spicejet.com Cell 7086026788 PERMITS ON ARRIVAL Customer Care: 022-62732111 4. Shillong Toll Free: 18602100999 W goair.in LILABARI AIRPORT The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Tourist ILP facilitation centres are Origin Bagdogra, Delhi, Kolkata North Lakhimpur, Assam Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, at the following places: W aai.aero e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Meghalaya, Shilllong. Tel 0364- 1. Naharlagun railway station INDIGO AIRLINE OFFICES 2224247, 2506470 2. Gumto railway station Tel: 0124-6173838 Cell 09910383838 ALLIANCE AIR 5. Tezpur 3. Guwahati Asom Paryatan Bhawan near W goindigo.in Toll Free 18602331407 t r a v e l t r a v e l The Deputy Resident Commissioner, Nepali Mandir and Guwahati Origin Agartala, Amritsar, Bagdogra, W airindia.in/alliance-air Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Parvati LGBI Airport. Bengaluru, Bhubaneswar, Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Imphal, Kochi, SPICEJET transport directory Kolkata, Mumbai, Varanasi Cell 09871803333, 09654003333 W spicejet.com AIR has been inaugurated, VISTARA Origin Kolkata IN ARUNACHAL but at the time of going to press is not Cell 09289228888 W airvistara.com AIRLINE OFFICES up and running as yet. TEZPUR AIRPORT Alliance Air DIBRUGARH AIRPORT Haleswar Dist-Sonitpur, Toll Free 18602331407 IN ASSAM Mohanbari, Assam Tezpur, Assam W airindia.in LOKPRIYA GOPINATH Airport Director Tel 0373-2382755 Airport Director Tel 03712-258441 Origin Guwahati BORDOLOI/ Guwahati W aai.aero W aai.aero

146 147 AIRLINE OFFICES Assam and New Delhi. Trains serving Kolkata-Silghat Town Kaziranga Express, connected to Arunachal Pradesh by ALLIANCE AIR this station include the Naharlagun- Mumbai LLT-Guwahati Express, etc. It Naharlagun-Guwahati Donyi Polo Toll Free 18602331407 Guwahati Donyi Polo Express, is connected to Arunachal Pradesh by Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. W airindia.in/alliance-air Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi Express, the Naharlagun-Guwahati Shatabdi h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Tinsukia Intercity Express, and Arunachal Express, Tinsukia Intercity Express and TEZPUR RAILWAY STATION HELICOPTER SERVICE AC SF Express (bi-weekly) which con- Arunachal AC SF Express. Tezpur Railway Station falls under the W arunachalipr.gov.in nects Delhi, UP, , and Rangiya Division. Trains serving this Guwahati Ticket Counter Assam to Arunachal Pradesh. HARMUTI JUNCTION station are Alipurduar Jn-Silghat Town a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Cell 09085738939 Harmuti Junction is connected to Rajya Rani Express, Kolkata-Silghat Naharlagun Ticket Counter IN ASSAM served major metros and Town Kaziranga Express etc. It is Cell 09436291907 DIBRUGARH RAILWAY STATION cities by Arunachal Express. connected to Arunachal Pradesh by SECTORS: Dibrugarh Railway Station is well Other trains connecting Arunachal Guwahati-Naharlagun Shatabdi Express, Guwahati -Naharlagun connected to Delhi, Amritsar, Pradesh are Naharlagun-Guwahati Guwahati-Naharlagun Donyi-Polo Guwahati-Tawang Chandigarh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, Uttar Shatabdi Express, Naharlagun-Tinsukia Express, Arunachal AC SF Express. Naharlagun-Pasighat Pradesh etc. Major trains serving this Intercity Express and Naharlagun- Pasighat-Along station are Avadh Assam Express, Guwahati Donyi Polo Express. TINSUKIA JUNCTION e s s e n t i a l s e s s e n t i a l s

Naharlagun-Mechuka Dibrugarh-Amritsar Weekly Express, Tinsukia Junction is connected to Dibrugarh-Chandigarh Weekly Express, NORTH LAKHIMPUR RAILWAY Dibrugarh, Guwahati by Ledo- Dibrugarh-Kolkata Weekly SF Express STATION Guwahati Intercity Express, Tinsukia-

t r a v e l RAIL t r a v e l Enquiry 139 and Dibrugarh-New Delhi Rajdhani North Lakhimpur Railway Station is Jorhat Town Passenger, etc. It is W indianrail.gov.in Express. It is connected to Arunachal connected to Arunachal Pradesh by the connected to Arunachal Pradesh by irctc.co.in Pradesh by the Naharlagun- Tinsukia Naharlagun – Tinsukia Intercity Express. Naharlagun-Tinsukia Intercity Express. Intercity Express. IN ARUNACHAL RANGIYA JUNCTION Road BHALUKPONG RAILWAY STATION GUWAHATI JUNCTION Rangiya Junction is a major railway BUS Bhalukpong Railway Station is Guwahati Junction is a major railway station connecting Assam to major Aalo (SS) Cell 09436058188 connected to Assam by the station connecting Assam to other cities in India and Arunachal Pradesh. Bomdila (SS) Cell 09402476020 Bhalukpong-Dekargoan Passenger. parts of the country. Major trains Trains serving this station are Kanchen- Pasighat (SS) Cell 09612453200 serving this station junga Express, Avadh Assam Express, Itanagar (SS/AS) Cell 09774034571 NAHARLAGUN RAILWAY STATION are Anand Vihar -Agartala Rajdhani North East Express, Mumbai LLT Roing (SS) Cell 09436222387 Naharlagun Railway Station connects Express, Bikaner-Guwahati Express, Kamakhya AC Express, etc. It is Tawang (SS) Cell 09436836087

148 149 TOURIST/ wildlife OFFICES In f o r m a t i o n In f o r m a t i o n & Bo o k i n g

Tourist Offices h o l i d a y s Arunachal Tourism W arunachaltourism.com

ITANAGAR Mandir, Dispur, Assam Department of Tourism Tel 0361-2229506 Cell 7086026788 a d v e n t u r e Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar Cell 08787619774 (Director of Tourism) NEW DELHI Department of Tourism GUWAHATI Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Department of Tourism Arunachal Bhawan, Kautilya Marg, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Chanakyapuri, New Delhi o f f i c e s

GS Road, Rukmani Village, Opp Mansa Tel 011-23013915, 23013956

wildlife Offices w i l d l i f e / Daying Erring Wildlife Sanctuary Pakke Tiger Resrve Pasighat Seijosa Wildlife Range t o u r i s t Cell 09862624766 (DFO), East Kameng 09436621222 (RO) Cell 08811952541 (RFO), 09436042859 (DFO) Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Cell 09436093632 Shergaon Forest Division Tel 03778-200016 Tel 03782-232249 Cell 09436246192 Talle Wildlife Sanctuary Namdapha National Park Range Forest Offier Field Director, Lower Subansiri Miao, Changlang Dist Hapoli Cell 09436835658 Cell 09436040268 (RO), 09436047092

150 Tour OPERATORS

BOMDILA STD 03782 Arunachal Pradesh h o l i d a y s Himalayan Holidays Guwahati Branch House No 149 (1st Location ABC Bldng. Main Market, Floor), Kolnadhara Cell 07002412384 Bomdila Tel 3782-222017 Cell 094360 45063 W himalayan-holidays.net NAHARLAGUN

Services Car rental, tour packages, Ravi Travel & Tour Inc a d v e n t u r e transportation, accommodations, wildlife Location A Sector, Naharlagun (Near tours, customised tours, forex, ticketing, Old Cinema Hall), Dist Papumpare passport n visa, all permits Destinations Cell 08257894003-04 Services Hotel/ All North-Eastern States Air/Rail bookings Tip They have discontinued Car rentals ITANAGAR STD 0360 Duyu Tours & Travels Xcell Location Vivek Vihar, College Road, Location Hafizan Complex, Ulubari, o p e r a t o r s Itanagar Tel 0360-216450, 218056 Opp Volvo Point, GS Road, Guwahati Cell 09436044905 W arunachaltours. Cell 09854121140 W xcell.co.in t o u r com Services Car rental, tour Services Car rental, tour packages, packages, customised tours, accommodations Destinations transportation, accommodations Arunachal Pradesh, Assam Destinations All North East PASIGHAT STD 0368 Kaziranga Tours Donyi Hango Tours Address Kadambari Complex (Gr Flr), – Rafting / Trekking Thana Charall Tel 2325969 Location Tebo Village, East Siang, Cell 09435530345, 09401343501 NH 52, Pasighat Tel 222324 W kazirangatours.com Services Cell 09436043393 W arunachal Customised tours, wildlife tours, donyihango.com Services Tour trekking Destinations All of packages, trekking, rafting, hotel

151 accommodations, transportation, 09436875102, 09366709589, Mishmi Hills Camp Roing E-Mail:: [email protected]/ arrange permit 08974299357 Services Guesthouse that also arranges nature [email protected] Car rental, Adventure Tour and culture tours in Dibang Valley, ROING STD 03803 Packages for all NE state, Lower Dibang Valley Eagle Nest Birding – Eagle Nest h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

The Mishmi Hills Trekking Co. customised tours, accommodations, Contact: Jibi Pulu 09862856981 Specialises in: Birding tours all over Location 2 kms from Roing Cell transportation Arunachal Pradesh Ravi Mekola Contact: Gaurav Kataria Wildlife and bird tours in Dibang Valley 9999030436, info@eaglenest a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Contact: 9774748828, 9402457180 birding.com Adventure tour operators Help Tourism Naja and Wild India Abor Country Travels The Mishmi Hills Trekking Specialises in: Rural Tourism, Expeditions Expedition, Itanagar Company - Roing/Anini Homestays, Nature Lodges, Nature Specialises in: Reptile, snake and Specialises in: Adventure, Specialises in: Hiking, culture, Camping, Nature expeditions, Birding, microfauna trips and workshops cultural heritage Tours, camping, adventure, camping, esp. in Dibang Butterfly tours, Wildlife treks, and volunteering, structured fauna o p e r a t o r s o p e r a t o r s

angling, rafting, high altitude flower Valley, Lower Dibang Valley and ‘Biodivinity journeys’ expeditions in Arunachal Pradesh. tours Eastern Arunachal Contact: Raj Basu +91-9434046892 Contact: Soham Mukherjee t o u r t o u r

Contact: Oken Tayeng Contact: Tine Mena E-mail: [email protected] +91-9909906618 +91-360-2292969, 9436053870, +91-9436875102, +91-8974299357 W www.helptourism.com and E-mail: [email protected] 9436860903 Fb Page: https://www.facebook.com/ (Under construction) www. W [email protected] Skype: Abor Country MishmiHillsTrekkingCompany/ arunachalhomestays.com a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e E-Mail: [email protected], Namdapha tours and treks [email protected] . Mishmi Hills Resort & Hotels SEED (Society for Education Miao, Changlang private Limited – Roing and Environmental Specialises in: Treks, tours, safaris Dibang Adventure - Anini/Roing Resort in Roing that arranges tours in Development) - Miao and activities in Namdapha Tiger Specialises in: trekking, wildlife, Dibang and Lower Dibang Valley Specialises in: Eco camps, Nature reserve and Changlang district culture, angling, safaris, adventure in Contact: 09436836763, Conservation through “nature walks & Contact: Phupla Singpho Dibang Valley, Lower Dibang Valley or proprietor Rezina Mihu learn” at Miao/Namdapha/Roing/Upper +91-9436228763 Contact Adiju Rondo +919402606309, +919862447610 Siang – this is a nonprofit organisation +91-9863288092, 03807-222296, +918794120523 Fb Page: https://www.facebook.com/ Contact: Minom Pertin +91-3807-222296 (for outside India) E-Mail: [email protected] ExploreMishmiHills/ 918974159612/+919436252577 E-mail: [email protected]

152 153 W https://namdaphatoursandtreks. West Kameng culture tours between [email protected] wordpress.com/ Contact: 9435271651, 9954861743 Menchukha and Tato W www.brahmaputratours.com Contact: Tsawang Chukla Donyi Hango Tours Pasighat Camp Namdapha Holidays - Village Holiday Tours & 9402224350 +91 9402224350 Specialises in: Pro rafting and angling, h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

Namsai/ Kohima/ Shillong/ travels - Khonsa, Tirap dist. +91 7005737596 and Central Arunachal, Buddhist trails, Tura/Itanagar Specialises in: village to village Gebu Sona +91 9436074877, riverside camping, trekking Specialises in: Tribal gourmet tours, treks, cultural tours, esp.in Eastern +91 940299666 Contact: Nino Dai, Yane Dai 0368 trekking, flower tours, culture Arunachal - Tirap, Changlang, E-Mail: [email protected], 2224243, 9436043393 a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Contact: Chau Enseng Mantow Longding, etc [email protected], E-Mail: [email protected] 8974643450 Contact: Khunwang Tangjang [email protected] W https://arunachaldonyihango.com E-mail: [email protected] +91-8118951427 W http://gtlhomestay.com E-mail: [email protected] M/S Arunachal Discover Paradise North by Northeast - Tezpur Himalayan Holidays, Bomdila Tours, Naharlagun Specialises in: Cycling, motorbike, Wildwildeast - Roing Lower Specialises in: culture, hiking, angling Specialises in: Paragliding, ethno-cultural tours, wildlife, Dibang Valley in Western Arunachal parasailing, etc, esp. around East o p e r a t o r s o p e r a t o r s

overland journeys in Arunachal Specialises in: Tribal ethno-cultural Contact Tsering Wange, Kameng and Seppa Contact Roheen Browne festival tours, angling, +91 3782-222017/222216/223818, Contact: Vijay Sonam +91 t o u r t o u r

+91-9940416065 off-roading 9436045063/9436222905 9089722446/9436041860, E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Tajom Tayeng 9402257638 (Itanagar:) fax: 0360-2246531 W http://northbynortheast.in 7002031852, 9862885645 Tawang: 9436248216 E-mail: arunachaldiscovertours@ymail. E mail: [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected] com/[email protected] a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Kipepeo - Mumbai/Northeast India W www.himalayan-holidays.net W www.arunachaldiscovertours.com Specialises in: Cultural tours, Tajom Tyeng - Roing Tawang Tour and Travels Tawang/Delhi road trips, hikes Contact: Tajom Tyeng +91-98628 Brahmaputra Tours, Ziro Contact: Lobsang Phuntsok (Tawang) Contact: Piran Elavia +91-9930002412 85645, +91-9436436010, Specialises in: Cultural tours, +91 8826888897, 9818336220 E-mail: [email protected] +91-7002031852 butterflies, orchids and hiking, Contact Delhi: - +91-8826888897, W www.kipepeo.in E-mail: [email protected] Talle Valley, Ziro 9818336220 Contact: Koj Mama 03788- E-mail: - [email protected] Binanda Hatiborah M/s Menchukha Tours & Travels 224905/2241931, W - www.tawangtravel.in Specialises in: Birding and wildlife ours Menchukha/ Itanagar 9436634496/8575248013 Tribal Adventure Tours Naharlagun in Pakke, Eaglenest, Tawang, Specialises in: Trekking, camping, E-Mail: [email protected]; E-Mail:- tribaladventuretours@gmail.

154 155 com; [email protected] Central Arunachal 08974141614 Rooms 4 Facilities Kitchen, food on Contact: John Panye +91 9436252013; Contact: Gandhi Darang Tariff `600-1,000 Facilities request, caretaker Reservations +91 08414080717, +91 360 2247422 0360-2214008 Restaurant, attached bath Tel 03778-200016 +91 9615432244, +91 8131872400, Cell 09436042859 (DFO) h o l i d a y s h o l i d a y s

M/S Ane Siang Tours & +91 9402617938 Namdapha Jungle Camp Expeditions Itanagar E-mail: - [email protected] Location Miao, 7 km from NP from Upper Dekoroi Rest House Specialises in: rafting, angling, W www.anesiangtours.com entry gate Cell 09436228763, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms 08974141614, 08257994436 from West Bank Forest Rest House a d v e n t u r e a d v e n t u r e Rooms 4 Tariff `1,500; TE Facilities Cell 09436093632 (Range Officer) Kitchen, dining area, local tribal food on Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Facilities FOREST RESTHOUSES request, guides, trekking, bird Kitchen, food on request, caretaker watching, butterfly spotting, Reservations Tel 03778-200016 DAYING ERRING WILDLIFE SANCTUARY EAGLENEST WILDLIFE SANCTUARY tribal visit Cell 09436042859 Forest Rest House Ramalingam Location Near Asha Diagnostic Location Ramalingam, PO Tenga, PAKKE TIGER RESERVE West Bank Forest Rest House Centre, Town Area, Pasighat Singchung, Shergaon Forest Division, Forest Inspection Bunglow Location Inside the Forest, Cell 09436621222 (RO), Cell West Kameng Tel 03782-232249 Cell Location Inside the Forest, adjacent Close to the Gate Cell 09436093632 f r h f r h 09862624766 (DFO), Rooms 4 09436246192 (DFO) Rooms 2 Tariff `500 to West Bank Forest Rest (Range Officer) Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Tariff `400-1,200 Facilities Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining hall House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Credit Cards NA Facilities Kitchen, Kitchen, cook, food on request, Rooms 2, dorms 1 (6 bedded) food on request, caretaker, room attached bath MOULING NATIONAL PARK Tariff `400, dorm bed `100 service, attached bath For Reservations Forest Rest House Facilities Kitchen, caretaker, room DFO Tel 03778-200016 Cell Forest Rest House Jeepghat Location Ramsing Wildlife Range, service, attached bath 09436042859 Location Jeepghat Mouling Wildlife Division, Jengging Cell Reservations Tel 03778-200016 Cell 09862624766 (DFO) Rooms 4 09436040109 (DFO) Rooms 4 Tariff Cell 09436042859 Talley Wildlife Sanctuary (single bedded) Tariff `250-300 `450-550 Facilities Kitchen, cook, dining Pange Camp (approx.) Facilities Kitchen, cook, hall, food on request, attached bath Khari Forest Rest House Location Lower Subansiri, Hapoli Tel food on request, attached bath, Location Inside the Forest, 12 kms 03788-224277 Cell 09436040268 Tip Reached by crossing the NAMDAPHA NATIONAL PARK (DEBAN) from West Bank Forest Rest (RFO), 09436047092 (DFO) Rooms 2 Siang River by forest department Eco Tourist Forest Guest House House Cell 09436093632 (RO) Tariff `200 Facilities Kitchen, cook, boats Location Miao Cell 09436228763, Rooms 4 Tariff `400 Credit Cards NA food on request, attached bath

156 157 h o m e s t a y s a d v e n t u r e h o l i d a y s River Kameng ties 158 Cell Location Y Rooms Location Y Facilities Location Y Rooms Cell Location Homestay Khaje Room Cell Location Homestay Dirkhipa Rooms Cell Location Homestay Bham BHALUKPONG service, geyser,service, heater, bath attached parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath attached service, room hall, dining Kitchen, parking, geyser,parking, heater, bath common service, room hall, dining Kitchen, dining hall, geyser,hall, bath dining attached 09402928011 eshi Homestay eshi angdol Homestay angdol ul Pema ul Kitchen, dining hall, room service room hall, dining Kitchen, 08729930222, 09436635835 09436635835 08729930222, 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, 09436635835 08729930222, Cell 2 3 3 2 Cell T Thembang Village, Dirang Dirang Village, Thembang Thembang Village, Dirang Village, Thembang Kameng Near Village, Tipi West Rupa, Village, Jigaon Dirang Village, Thembang Dirang Village, Thembang Kitchen, dining hall, room hall, dining Kitchen, 08415850764, 08731978022 08415850764, ariff T T T hhen Homestay Chhen ariff ariff ariff 09402071593, Homest Rooms

`

700 `1,000 `700 `1,300-1,600 Facilities a 2 Facilities ys Facilities T ariff Kitchen, Kitchen,

Facili- `1,000

Namsai Siang Namsai cuisine, vehicles for sightseeing for vehicles cuisine, common bath common dining hall, parking, geyser,parking, hall, heater dining Location Homestay Hewli T Location Homestay Greenview NAMSAI Rooms T Location K Location Ane P Facilities Location Homestay Sangtini Kitchen, dining hall, common bath common hall, dining Kitchen, common bath common 09436053509, 08729989123 09436053509, person, with two meals two with person, Kitchen, vehicle for sightseeing for vehicle Kitchen, meals 04048 49977 91784 Namsai meals ariff ariff asigha umin Homestay Gumin umin Homestay Gumin

Cell 3,000 with all meals all with `3,000 1,600 per person, with two with person, per `1,600 Facilities Facilities Rooms Rooms Rooms 2 Cell Cell Cell Behind Buddhist Monastery,Buddhist Behind behind Village Mebo, Romdum Mebo, Village East Pasighat, Mirbu, Tigra Monastery,Buddhist Behind Kitchen, parking, pic n drop, n pic parking, Kitchen, `1,000 t 07005059493, 087319 07005059493, 08794089075, 093666 08794089075, 094360 09862708997, 09436637187 3 2 2 Kitchen, traditional Kitchen, Kitchen, dining hall, dining Kitchen, T T T Facilities igher Secondary,Higher ariff ariff ariff

2,500 with two with `2,500 1,600 per `1,600 `2,500-3,000 Facilities Kitchen, Rooms Facilities Rooms

Cell 2 2

33767, 084248 02002 084248 33767, Dibang ValleyDibang Siang 52 1,600 per person, with two meals two with person, per `1,600 meals two with person, per `1,800 1,500 per person, with all meals all with person, per `1,500 07005586217 Location ValleyJungle Dibang 03803 STD ROING Facilities Location Stay Home Ori 03783 STD ALONG Location T Location Homestay Pineapple Location T Facilities Cell Location Homestay Narmi Facilities Cell Location Homestay Nana hall, room service, attached bath attached service, room hall, bath common service, 3,000 akar Homestay akar uniyang Homestay uniyang T el 09862911689 07085858003 Cell Facilities 222324 12 km to Miuliati, Lower Miuliati, to km 12 Village Ori Takilalung, Village Pasighat East Pasighat, Napit, Village NH TeboSiang, East Village, Siang East Village, Runne Takilalung, Village Pasighat Kitchen, local guide, dining guide, local Kitchen, room hall, dining Kitchen, bath common Kitchen, 09862571827 Rooms Tel Cell Kitchen, dining room dining Kitchen, 0353-2433683 Rooms Rooms 09436043393, Cell 4 Rooms amp Camp T ariff 076389 2 2 T T 8

ariff ariff `2,800- T Cell ariff

main Ziro Town)Ziro main Bomjir,Roing from 17km 08258829810, 0940205405708258829810, `1,500-2,000 ZIRO STD 03788 STD ZIRO bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on heaters, room service, attached bath, TV bath, attached service, room 09856209494 Facilities Cell Location Stay Home Lemberdung cottages Location Ziro Ngunu T Location Home Villa Jambey T Location Zaktum meals tents meals, all with Rooms attached bath attached hall, dining request, on food Kitchen, heater,bath attached geyser,hall, dining request, on food geyser,heater, bath attached 2,000 per person, with two meals two with person, per 2,000 08414987117, 09436045988 08414987117, 09733000442 Tip ariff A W Also called Dambuk called Also 09436051009 03794 STD ANG

`1,800-3,000 Facilities 4, tents 6 tents 4, T otko – Artist – Notko 8 km from Tawangfrom km 8 Market Siro Village, Ziro (3 kms from kms (3 Ziro Village, Siro kms) (4 Urgelling Lower Dibang Valley,Dibang Lower Kitchen, dining hall, parking. hall, dining Kitchen, ariff Facilities Rooms

W `2,500-3,500 Restaurant, laundry,Restaurant, helptourism.net Cell T Rooms ariff Facilities 3,500; TE with all with TE `3,500; 09436047891, 2 Kitchen, food Kitchen,

T 5,000; TE `5,000; Cell Homestay amp Camp ariff 3 Cell Facilities Rooms Rooms T Kitchen,

ariff `1,200-

159 6 6

h o m e s t a y s a d v e n t u r e h o l i d a y s Photo Credits

Front Cover AHTUSHI DESHPANDE A 20-ft wave on a Class IV rapid

Inside the Book

AHTUSHI DESHPANDE Page 4, Middle: rafting through a rapid Page 126,

arjun kamdar Page 78–79: A sunbird sitting on a tree branch

NINO DAI Page 5, Left: Anglers on the Subansiri Page 122: White sand beach camping

Omar Khan Page 110–111: A panoramic view of Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary

Sanjiv valsan Page 4 (Top), 130–131 & 132: Paragliding is a great way to explore Arunachal Pradesh Page 5 (Top), 18–19 & 52: A trekker crossing the bridge on the Pasang Sonam Tso Trek in Mechuka Page 5, Middle: Birdwatchers in Namdapha Tiger Reserve Page 72: Cyclists taking rest on the way Italin to Anini

Shutterstock Page 4, Bottom: Black-crested bulbul

Courtesy Images ARUNACHAL PRADESH TOURISM Page 114–115: Rafting in the mighty Siang River Spokehub Cycling Page 5, Bottom: Cycling in Kibithu

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