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The Properties of Hair Covered by Conditioners Containing Collagen, Chitosan and Hyaluronic Acid

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The Properties of Hair Covered by Conditioners Containing Collagen, Chitosan and Hyaluronic Acid EJMT 3(24) 2019 • European Journal of Medical Technologies The properties of hair covered by conditioners containing collagen, chitosan and hyaluronic acid European Journal Sylwia Grabska, Alina Sionkowska of Medical Technologies 2019; 3(24): 11-17 Nicolaus Copernicus University in Torun, Faculty of Chemistry, Copyright © 2019 by ISASDMT Department of Chemistry of Biomaterials and Cosmetics, Poland All rights reserved www. medical-technologies.eu Published online 29.09.2019 Corresponding Abstract address: Nicolaus Copernicus The aim of this work was to observe impact of hair conditioners with ad- University in Torun, Faculty of Chemistry, dition of biopolymers on hair structure. In this work hair conditioners with Department of Chemistry addition of collagen, hyaluronic acid and their mixtures with addition of chi- of Biomaterials and tosan were obtained. Cosmetics, Gagarin 7, The hair protection possibility was studied using mechanical testing and scan- 87-100 Torun, Poland ning electron microscopy of hair coated by the conditioners with addition of sylwiagrabska91@ biopolymers (collagen, hyaluronic acid, chitosan) and their blends. gmail.com It was found that the conditioner with three-component biopolymer mix- tel. +48 56 611 48 33 ture (collagen, hyaluronic acid, chitosan) improves the mechanical proper- ties of individual hair the most between others. Such conditioner gives the greatest increase in the Young’s Modulus value and the greatest increase of Key words: elongation during the break. The results of SEM imaging have shown that the thickness of a hair shaft with the polymer covering is bigger than without hair, hair conditioner, it. SEM images showed that scales of hair are more detached in a shaft with- mechanical tests, film- out the polymer covering. forming properties Introduction structure of hair. It is undesirable for healthy hair [2]. Everybody wants to have beautiful and healthy hair, Beautiful and healthy hair is desired by most of pop- so several laboratories try to find new way for perfect ulation. For most people, maintenance and groom- hair conditioning. ing of hair and skin is a daily process [1]. Weather Hair conditioners are cosmetic products for hair conditions, chemical dyeing, combing and perma- treatment. In general, hair conditioners have no effect nent wave treatment contribute a large amount of on growth and cannot affect cellular repair, however, mechanical and chemical damage to the fibers. It they can temporarily improve the cosmetic appear- leads to degradation of mechanical properties and ance of damaged hair [3]. Conditioner is used to coat 11 Copyright © 2019 by ISASDMT EJMT 3(24) 2019 • European Journal of Medical Technologies the hair with a thin film in order to protect it and pro- Collagen (Coll) is the most abundant protein in vide desirable look and feel. Conditioners repair hair mammals constituting over 30% of the total proteins damage and make the hair easier to comb, prevent in animal body. It is the foremost constituent of the flyaway, add feel, shine, and softness. They can in- extracellular matrix which is abundant fibrous struc- crease shine, decrease static electricity, improve hair tural protein. Collagen is mostly found in skin, liga- strength and protect against ultraviolet radiation. ment and tendon, cornea, blood vessels, bone, carti- Conditioners, which typically repair the hair surface, lage, intervertebral disc and the gut [13]. respectively, have a distinct effect on its mechanical Chitosan (CTS) is an amino polysaccharide. It is properties as well. They improve the general appear- extracted as deacetylated derivative of chitin. The ance of hair on the outside [4,5]. To meet the needs of deacetylation mechanism involves elimination of consumers, many ingredients, such as synthetic and acetyl group via treatment of chitin with concentrat- natural polymers are added to conditioners [2,6]. ed sodium hydroxide for a long period leaving be- Today, there is a broad array of hair condition- hind only amine group. Chitin is available in exoskel- ing products available on the market [7]. In order eton of crustaceans, insects and several fungi [14]. to meet the consumer’s expectations toward the ef- Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural linear polysac- fectiveness of such products, the cosmetics industry charide. It plays a role in several biological processes, brings modern recipes out to the market. The labo- including cell growth, differentation and migration. ratories testing the impact of raw materials on the This biomacromolecule is one of the major constitu- hair structure and proving their effectiveness play ents of the skin and can be found in extracellular tis- a crucial role in the process of care preparation pro- sues of various parts of the body [15]. duction. Biopolymers are widely used in cosmetic Collagen, chitosan and hyaluronic acid are the bio- industry, particularly in hair care products [8-11]. polymers, which show interesting properties for ap- Biopolymers are particularly attractive as raw mate- plication in the cosmetic field; specifically they have rials in conditioners due to their film-forming prop- film-forming and fiber-forming properties and they erties [1,5]. From the point of view of the cosmetics are biocompatible, biodegradable, nontoxic and non- industry, biopolymers are significantly compelling. immunogenic polymers. Biopolymers belong to the group of raw materials The aim of this work was to obtain hair condition- exhibiting a positive impact on the hair structure, ing products containing biopolymers such as: col- mainly due to film-forming properties. lagen, chitosan, hyaluronic acid and their mixtures Biopolymers are present in many cosmetic for- and to observe impact on structure of hair covered mulas, although the research concerning their effec- by prepared hair conditioners. The hair was subjected tiveness is still not well developed [8-11]. In order to to endurance tests and microscopic evaluation. develop an effective cosmetic preparation, the mix- tures of biopolymers is proposed. The conditioning properties of preparations containing such mixtures Experimental depend on the proper proportion rates of the partic- ular biopolymers [5]. Thanks to their biocompatibil- Formulation and preparation ity and nontoxicity, biopolymers are good cosmetic of conditioners ingredients [5,7]. Biopolymers are compounds which occur natu- Five conditioners with collagen, hyaluronic acid, rally in living organisms or are produced by liv- 50/50 (w/w) mixture of collagen and hyaluronic ing organisms [12]. Ingredients in preparations for acid, and 50/50 (w/w) mixture of collagen and hy- cosmetic applications should be non-toxic, because aluronic acid with 30% addition of chitosan were these materials are brought into contact with the skin prepared (Tables 1-5). Collagen was prepared in or body. Natural polymers are biodegradable, biore- our laboratory from rat tail tendons according to sorbable, biocompatible, bioactive and non-toxic. a known procedure [16]. Chitosan and hyaluronic 12 Copyright © 2019 by ISASDMT EJMT 3(24) 2019 • European Journal of Medical Technologies Table 1. Table 2. Ingredients of conditioner without biopolymers Ingredients of conditioner containing 1% of collagen Component (INCI1) Precentage [%] Component (INCI1) Procentage [%] Oil phase Oil phase Stearic acid 20.0 Stearic acid 20 Cera alba 9.00 Cera alba 9 Ceteareth – 20 4.00 Ceteareth – 20 4 Argan oil 1.00 Agran oil 1 Water phase Water phase Glycerol 2.00 Glycerol 2 Aqua 64.0 Collagen 1 1INCI: International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients Aqua 63 Table 3. Table 4. Ingredients of conditioner containing 1% of hyaluronic Ingredients of conditioner containing 1% of 50/50 colla- acid gen/hyaluronic acid mixture Component (INCI) Precentage [%] Component (INCI) Precentage [%] Oil phase Oil phase Stearic acid 20.0 Stearic acid 20.0 Cera alba 9.00 Cera alba 9.00 Ceteareth – 20 4.00 Ceteareth – 20 4.00 Argan oil 1.00 Argan oil 1.00 Water phase Water phase Glycerol 2.00 Glycerol 2.00 Hyaluronic acid 1.00 Collagen 0.50 Aqua 63.0 Hyaluronic acid 0.50 Aqua 63.0 acid were supplied by Sigma Aldrich, Poznań, properties such as Young’s Modulus [GPa] and elon- Poland. Chitosan and hyaluronic acid had a vis- gation during the break [%] were measured for in- cosity average molecular weight of 1.8 × 106 and dividual hair: the hair without conditioner, the hair 0.59 × 106, respectively. The deacetylation degree covered with the conditioner without biopolymers, (DD, %) of chitosan was 78%. the hair covered with the conditioners with biopoly- mer addition. Analysis was repeated for 10 samples Mechanical testing and the standard deviation was calculated. Long, brown hair from 20-years-old woman was Scanning electron microscope used for mechanical testing. Before attending to me- (SEM) imaging chanical testing, the hair was washed, using a sham- poo and then, dried up. The washed and dried up hair The surface of human hair was studied using scan- was covered with the conditioner for 30 min. After ning electron microscope (LEO Electron Microscopy that time, the conditioner was rinsed off and the hair Ltd, England). Samples were covered by gold and im- was left to dry up. ages were made with the resolution 50 μm and 10 μm. The hair was subjected to mechanical tests using The thickness of hair shafts was calculated for native the Zwick&Roell testing machine. The mechanical hair and for hair covered with the conditioners. 13 Copyright © 2019 by ISASDMT EJMT 3(24) 2019 • European Journal of Medical
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