CREATINE MONOHYDRATE AS A CONDITIONING AGENT FOR Bharati Ganua*, Aditi Pendkeb a Department of Cosmetic Technology, Nikalas Mahila Mahavidyalaya, Nagpur 440025, India b Ashland India Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai 400079, India

A B S T R A C T molecule, which results in conditioner Creatine Monohydrate a synthesized deposition on hair. Damaged hair fibres are negatively charged. The attraction of the nitrogeneous organic from L-argenine, L- conditioner to hair results in reduction of static glycine and L- methionine is used as a food electricity on the fibre surface reducing the supplement by athletes and in skin care flyaway behaviour. The conditioner layer also for its moisturizing and collagen flattens the cuticle scales against each other producing property. Its moisturizing property which improves shine and colour. It gives easier combing and detangling in wet and dry was used and a hair conditioner was formulated condition. (Bhushan, 2010). with varying concentration (0.5 % to 3%) of Creatine monohydrate. Photomicrographs The active ingredients in most conditioners (SEM) of treated and untreated hair showed include mainly cationic . that Creatine monohydrate conditioned the like mono and polypeptide like hydrolyzed (amino ), polypeptides derived abrased layer of hair. Electrostatic from collagen are also used. Emollients property of hair was significantly reduced after composed of natural and synthetic , esters, application of hair conditioner having 2% waxes and are most frequently used. active. Subjective analysis further proved that (Arora & Piraccini, 2016). The hair cosmetic the formulated product improved combability, industry has undergone a revolutionary change over the last two decades from merely decreased friction and detangling of hair. cleansing and conditioning to repair and Keywords: Creatine Monohydrate, Electrostatic stimulating growth. (Madnani & Khan, 2013). properties, Photomicrograph, Conditioner , Recent market trends have increased the need for hair protection. The use of collagen ingredients including peptides and other 1. Introduction: derivatives are used for moisture retention and Damage to the hair structure and reduction in hair softness. (Roddick, 2018). Creatine is a the strength of the hair fibre are caused by daily naturally occurring nitrogenous organic acid stress such as exposure to sunlight, daily containing L-glycine, L-arginine, L- grooming like shampooing, combing, brushing, methionine. Creatine monohydrate is the most blow drying and chemical treatments like commonly used salt form of creatine. It colouring and relaxing. These factors cause supplies energy to the muscles and is most chemical degradation of lipid and protein as commonly used as a food supplement by well as abrasion of protein layer of hair. Hair athletes as it delays fatigue during intensive conditioners are common product exercise. It enhances athlete performance formulated to improve hair appearance, (Racette, 2003). Creatine is found naturally in combability and manageability. (Jachowicz, skin. Creatine acts as an energy reservoir and 2017) The ideal conditioner is capable of important for energy supply and functioning of restoring hydrophobicity of the fibre and cells. It repairs skin cell and stimulates collagen neutralizing static electricity. Conditioner production. Multifunctional creatine molecules contain cationic surfactants which monohydrate has many uses in skin care for its give a positive electrical charge to the moisturizing and collagen producing property conditioner. The negative charge of the hair is (EP2160186A2). Relates the use of creatine attracted to the positively charged conditioner monohydrate, creatine pyruvate and creatine

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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CURRENT ENGINEERING AND SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJCESR) ascorbate for treatment of skin. It claims for treating uneven pigmentation in skin, 5mg/ml 2.3 Electrostatic Properties of Hair inhibits tyrosinase by 25%. (Nivaggioli, Zu & The hair tresses were cut to a length of 10 cm , Paredes, 2008). A group of scientists from weight of each tresses was 1.0+1 g. The tresses Beiersdorf Research and Development state were cleaned with a solution of sodium lauryl that the nitrogenous organic acid creatine sulphate ,then rinsed thoroughly .The hair represents a beneficial active ingredient for tresses under experimentation were treated with topical use in the prevention and treatment of formulated hair conditioners F1,F2,F3,F4and human skin ageing by stimulating dermal F5, containing 0.5%,1.0%,1.5%,2.0%and 3.0% collagen. In-vivo application of a creatine respectively and plain water. the tresses were containing formulation for six weeks then washed thoroughly and dried with a towel significantly reduced sagging (Mc Dougall, .they were combed bottom up with a fine 2011). Creatine monohydrate has three amino plastic comb. Combing was repeated 14 times. acids and thus it can give an excellent The electrostatic property of hair was conditioning property which has been conducted on the basis of hair volume employed in this paper. An attempt was made measurement (Olszanska et al., 2011).Width of to formulate a hair conditioner with creatine the shadow cast by the hair piece was plotted monohydrate and evaluate its conditioning on the graph paper sheet. The diameter of the effect on hair. shadow was measured in cm .The read out was carried out at 6cm from the top of the hair piece 2. Experimental and the shadow width was measured. The width 2.1 Active (Creatine Monohydrate) of the shadow was consequently read out for all Creatine monohydrate was procured from Hi- the 5 formulations. media Laboratories. Creatine is a synthesized nitrogenous organic acid from L-arginine, 2.4 Instrumental Method L-glycine and L-methionine and three Scanning electron Microscope (SEM): enzymes.N-(aminoiminomethyl)-N Scanning electron microscope facilitates the methylglycine monohydrate. (USITC No. 3177, detailed examination of hair fiber surface at 1999). much larger magnification. Cuticle appearance, surface debris and thick surface deposits are After procurement of active, it was evaluated readily observed (Ali et al., 2015). and tested as per the specification provided by To get a very clear view of conditioning effect the company. It was qualitatively analyzed for SEM analysis was carried out. Hair from a Ninhydrine, Xanthoprotic, Sakaguchi, Hopkin’s single subject was selected for study. The cole and Folin’s Mc Carthy Sullivan’s test. formulated hair conditioner was applied on a (Jain, 2003). washed and dried hair strand before SEM examination. Hair fibres (treated and untreated) 2.2 Formulation of Conditioner 10 mm in length were fixed on a metal stub The base of the hair conditioner was formulated .The metal stub of each sample were subjected as shown in Table 1 (Willkinson & Moore, to gold coating for 300 seconds, after which 1982). they were kept in a vacuum chambered microscope and observed under different Table 1 - Formulation and Development of magnification. The photographs were viewed Base of Hair Conditioner on the screen (David et al., 2015). Sr.n Ingredients Quantity for o 100% 2.5 Subjective Analysis 1. Glyceryl monosterate 2 50 female subjects (18 to 40 years) were selected to use the hair conditioner for a period 2. Span 60 1 of one month .They were asked to use the hair 3. Mineral 3 conditioner after every wash on a daily basis 4. Cetyl alcohol 1.5 .A sensory questionnaire was provided to the 5. Stearic acid 2 subjects ,to indicate daily on a scale from 1-10 6. Lanolin 1 for softness, manageability, combability, 7. Propyl paraben 0.1 detangling flyaway and shine.

8. Tween 20 3 2.6 Accelerated Stability Studies 9. Propylene Glycol 5 To check the stability of the product various 10. Methyl paraben 0.2 physical parameters like change in 11. Water Upto 100ml pH,color,odor were checked for one months as per BIS of IS 7679:1978 (BIS) To the selected base the active Creatine monohydrate was added at the concentration of 3. Result and Discussion 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2% and 3% in formula F1, F2, 3.1 Evaluation of Creatine Monohydrate F3, F4, F5 respectively. Experimental analysis of Creatine monohydrate

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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CURRENT ENGINEERING AND SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJCESR) complied with the specifications given by Hi- 3.4 Subjective Analysis Media Laboratories .Creatine monohydrate was Subjective analysis enabled a deeper confirmed qualtitatively for the presence of understanding whether creatine monohydrate amino acids .The tests showed positive results imparts a wide range of attributes . F4 for Ninydrin, Xanthoprotic, Sakaguchi, Folins formulation (2%Creatine monodydrate) was McCarthy Sullivan's and Hopkin's Cole tests . given to 50 female subjects where they rated 3.2 Evaluation of Electrostatic Property the product on a scale of 1-10.Detangling, Evaluation of electrostatic property from the flyaway and managabeality were the three Table 2 showed that the hair tresses washed parameters which were rated 9 out of 10 by 50 with plane water showed a large shadow of female subjects. 14.3 cm. Table 2- Evaluation of Electrostatic Property 10 % of creatine Hairpiece shadow 9 8 monohydrate in hair width (cm) 7 conditioner 6 5 Water 14.3 4 0.5% creatine 3 11 2 monohydrate( F1 ) 1 1% creatine 10.3 0 Ratingofthe Final Product by 50subjects monohydrate (F2 ) Softness Manageability Compatibility Detangling Flyway Shine 1.5% creatine 10.0 Parameters monohydrate (F3 ) 2% creatine 9.3 Fig. 2. Subjective Analysis of the Finished monohydrate (F4 ) Product 3% creatine 9.6 3.5 Qualitative Analysis monohydrate(F5 ) The accelerated stability studies of the finished

product F4 was carried out daily for a period of The shadow width decreased with increase in one month. Various physical parameters like concentation of Creatine monohydrate showing change in colour, odour, pH were checked at that the electrostatic property of hair was oven temperature 450 C, room temperature and significantly reduced. For concentration 2% refrigeration temperature 40 C and it was found and 3% the shadow width was 9.6 cm as both that there was no significant change in colour, the concentrations gave a constant hair volume odour and pH and the product was found to be measurement the formulation of hair stable. conditioner having 2% creatine monohydrate (F4)was selected for further studies as this Thermal stability studies of the formulation concentration had significant antistatic effect on showed that the product was stable at 4oC and hair tresses. 45oC .

3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) From photomicrographs of treated hair fibre 4. Conclusion In the present study the formulated hair with F4 formulation having 2% creatine monohydrate and untreated hair fibre (Fig. conditioner with 2% Creatine monohydrate 1a&b) it was concluded that the hair exhibited good antistatic property as well as conditioner deposited and coated peeled off excellent conditioning effect on hair as cuticle evenly and uniformly and closed the revealed by SEM studies. spacing of cuticle scale. References 1. Jachowig, J. (2017). Evaluation effects of conditioning formulations on Hair. Conditioning agents for hair and skin, edited by Randey Schweller, Perry Romanowski, Marcel Dekker, Inc 301- Fig. 1a: Untreated hair fibre 336. 2. Bhushan, B. (2010). Introduction - Human hair, skin and hair care products. Biophysics of Human Hair - Structural Nanomechanical and Nanotribiological Studies. Fig. 1b-Treated Hair Fibre with Hair Conditioner F4 (2% creatine monohytrade)

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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CURRENT ENGINEERING AND SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJCESR) 3. Alessandrini, A. & Maria Piraccini 10. Jain, J.L. (2003). Proteins - general (2016). Essentials of hair care properties. Fundamentals of cosmetics. Cosmetics, 3, 34. Biochemistry, S. Chand & Company 4. Madnani, N. & Kaleem Khan (2013). Ltd., New Delhi, 175-190. Hair cosmetics. Indian Journal of 11. Willkinson, J.B. & Moore, R.J. (1982) Bermatology Venereology and Hair tonic and conditioner. Harry's Leprology, 79, 654-67. Cosmiticology, 7th ed. George and 5. Roddick, Lanzilotla, A.D. (2018). Godwin Longman House, 498-513. Binding force - Natural oxidized keratin 12. Olszanka, M., Sadowski, R. & internalizes hair repair. Ogonowski, J. (2011). Hair conditioning www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com, 133, foams formulations, Chemik 6. Internation., 65, 10, 944. 6. Racette, S.B. (2003). Creatine 13. Ali, N., Zohra, R.F., Qader, S.A.U., supplementation and athletic Mumtaz, M. (2015). Scanning electron performance. Journal of Orthop Sports microscopy analysis of hair index on Phys. Ther., 33(10): 615-21. Karachi's population for social and 7. Nivaggioli, B.T., Zu, B., Stolberg, professional appearance enhancement. Paredes, M.W. (2006). Creatine International Journal of Cosmetic compositions for skin treatment. Science, 37, 312-320. EP2160186A2. 14. Jay, D.C. & Frod, B.J. (2015). 8. McDougall, A. (2011) Beiersdorf Scanning electron microcope (SEM) scientists show creatine benefits in instrument. antiageing and skin care product. 15. IS7679:1990 (1990). Specification of Cosmetics. shampoo, soap based. Bureau of Indian 9. VSITC (1999). Determination and Standards, 1st revision. views of the commission Creatine

monohydrate from the people's Republic of China. United States International Trade Commission, pb no. 3177, 5.

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