Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places

November 2017

www.shrewsburymc.com [email protected] Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places

From the editor This is the last newsletter of 2017. Some of our members have been travelling overseas and they will share their experiences in this November issue.

Some others have spent their weekend in Langdale and I must say that was a great one. Look out for a song written by Phil Latter.

My usual contact details:

This issue will cover: Deadline for the next newsletter 3 Langdale meet edition is 26th January 2018 due to AGM. 6 Moel Ysgyfarnogod Any photographs should be separate JPEG 7 Clwt y Bel maintenance weekend with a caption and your short and sweet 7 Moel Shiabod summaries should be sent to Vilma 8 Jan’s travels in Chile (part I) (contact details above). 9 Nepal, Annapurna base camp (ABC) 13 Upcoming Meets 14 Tuesday walks & Thursday climbs 15 Challenge walks in 16 Photo competition 16 Winter lectures

Many SMC members were sorry to hear of the death of Pete McAree's wife, Mary. Ten members travelled to Glasgow for the funeral and Pete has expressed his gratitude for our support. Pete also sends his heartfelt thanks to all those who could not attend but who sent cards, emails, and letters. He received over 60 cards in total and this means a lot to him. We send Pete our best wishes and look forward to seeing him out again on Lakes/Scottish meets.

Front cover:

Langdale Map—September weekend meet arranged by Brenda Duffy.

www.shrewsburymc.com -2 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Langdale meet, 15th-17th September, by Brenda Duffy

Panorama on the way up/down to/from Bowfell; photo taken by Brenda Duffy This was our first stay at the Raven Crag Hut, but based on good feedback I think we will be back. It’s owned by the BBRCC, originally a club for Barclays Bank staff but now an independent mountaineering club. The hut has a superb location perched on the hill behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel with a great choice of walks and climbs right from the door.

Adrian and Jerry had started Raven Crag; photo taken by Brenda Duffy the weekend with a day out on Friday, climbing Middlefell Buttress and Main Wall at Gimmer. Saturday morning was gloriously sunny and Annie Pearce joined six of the group (Brenda, Sue Cunningham, Tony Mills, Andy Bentley, Jon and Anne Yeeles) for a stomp up to Bowfell via Angle Tarn. We carried on to Crinkle Crags and Great Knott, enjoying fantastic views all the way round. Vilma and Phil Latter climbed Holly Tree Traverse on Raven Crag, Vilma’s first real multi-pitch climb. She thoroughly enjoyed it despite the unusually hard Bowfell; photo taken by Andy Bentley start and an exciting abseil descent due to wet and dangerous conditions! www.shrewsburymc.com -3 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places

They also did their good deed in assisting a man who was not sure of his way down. (Did he share the abseil?? Ed: yes, he did)

Phil Holden and his son Pete climbed some nice single pitch Diffs and V Diffs at Long Scar on Pike o' Blisco. Phil later nipped up to Wrynose and Hardnott passes on his bike in the evening sun. Adrian and Jerry climbed Savernake Mild Severe, while Heather and Pam went for a low level walk. On Saturday evening all fourteen of us had an entertaining evening at the Sticklebarn pub with a At Sticklebarn pub, photo taken by Brenda surprisingly cheap meal!

On the Sunday Tony and Adrian climbed on Raven Crag—Revelation HS 4c *** A gem of a climb high on the climber’s wish list.

Elevation HS 4c ** Just as good as the above but without the overhanging crack and lack of gear in it.

Anne and Jon Yeeles and Andy Bentley got a few more Wainwright ticks with Pike o’Blisco, down to the Wrynose Pass road and back via Blea Tarn. Phil Holden, Brenda and Pete did a couple of scrambles on Harrison Stickle and Pike o'Stickle (with a quick dip in Stickle Tarn for Phil). Others walked via the Band to Bowfell and had a quick visit to the Three Tarns for a photo shoot, then back via Angle Tarn enjoying the sunshine all the way. Holly Tree Traverse, by Phil Latter Having arrived at about 1.00 pm on Friday, we stored our gear, had a coffee break then set out to check out Raven Crag which is behind the cottage. A well worn track led straight to the Crag in about 15 minutes. We spent about 90 minutes locating various features ready for climbing on Saturday. Saturday morning, back at Raven Crag we set up to climb "Holly Tree Traverse " VDiff. There were several parties on the Crag at that time, so it was a slow start. The first pitch proved to be quite difficult (it felt like 4b), but we finally

Phil revisiting the Three Tarns; picture taken by arrived at the first stance. As it was Vilma Vilma’s first real rock climb, she looked www.shrewsburymc.com -4 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places a bit pale! But after a short while, the smile was back. From here the route opened up into a lovely outing with positive hand holds and good foot placements, which when combined with the sunshine and fine views across the valley, it was a great place to be. The final pitch was a short corner which lead to grassy ledges, where we un-roped. At this point we met a couple, who were also descending, and lady refused to use the regular way down. When we got there it looked greasy and dangerous, so we agreed to abseil. A large rock provided a good anchor, then we went down in tandem to arrive on the path below. Vilma reckoned that this was the best part of the day. Back at the rucksacks we had some refreshments, then back to the cottage for tea and medals! Ed: After such great experience Phil got so inspired and wrote a song about our adventure, which I decided to share with you. Here it is:

Phil said: we’ll start by that pinnacle! Phil said: why you’re looking so pale? Vilma said: you sound so cynical! We’re about to do the abseil. I’m just doing the best I can Set up the anchor and clip in your gear Cause I’m just a crazy climbing man! Get it right—no cause for fear!

Chorus: <> <> A guy turned up wearing a frown Phil said: we can share the rope to get down After the first desperate pitch `Thanks` he said `cause I lost my wife Vilma said: that was a bitch! You two probably saved my life!` My legs are shaking and my hands are weak You’ve turned me into a rock climbing freak!

<>

After some pitches we’re on our way down We looked at each other and shared a frown This is a position with no hope We’ll just have to use our rope.

<>

Let’s continue with the tradition of creating songs & poems about our adventures. We continued the night with wine, beer, whisky, tea and some life music. BBCCC members arrived to the cottage later in the evening and mingled with us until about midnight. We had a fabulous time! On Sunday, we walked via The Band to Bowfell. This included some navigation practice and a visit to the Three Tarns, which gave great views. Returning via Angle Tarn, we were overtaken by a lady running down with Nordic walking poles. Lower down we spotted her bathing in the stream!!! A long walk out but back by 3.00-ish. A shower and coffee, then home. www.shrewsburymc.com -5 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Moel Ysgyfarnogod, by Andy Bentley

Very few people visit the Rhinogs, especially the northernmost ones, so this was always a place I’d always wanted to walk, but on Saturday morning it looked like I might be doing so alone: the weather forecast had been reasonable yet I had no definite takers. By Sunday morning though I had five companions (Graham D, Kevin Draper, Alenka, Dave Baldock, Malcom Metcalfe) in spite of a deteriorating prediction. We set off in dry conditions and walked in a vaguely north- westerly direction gaining height until we were on the ridge we planned to follow for the day. The summit of Moel

Gyrafolen was a stone’s throw Andy, Graham, Kevin , Alenka, Dave & Malcom away, but we opted to follow the route card and head for straight for Diffwys instead. From there we continued west dropping down slightly before climbing Foel Penolau were the fun began. This is really rocky summit, which required a short scramble to get to the top of it - a long scramble, if you don’t get the approach right. We did spread out slightly but all safely reached the top at roughly the same time. There was only one direction we could scramble down – a little frustrating as it was 90 degrees off where we could see we were heading next. The next peak was Moel Ysgyfarnogod, which apparently translates from Welsh as “Bare Hill of the Hares” (none were to be seen). Here we hit clag on the top but got brief but faint views of the coastline on the descent. This is definitely somewhere that would be well worth a revisit on a clear day. We headed to our next named peak Craig Ddrwg, taking in 2 or 3 “Pile’s of stones” on the way. Navigation and terrain was tricky here, but there were compensations, such as unusual rock formations and huge moss structures, that probably only come to be from the desolation of the area. In fact, we didn’t meet any other walkers during the whole walk. The last summit was called “Clip” and is reputedly a great viewpoint, but by now the clag was thoroughly set in, so it just wasn’t to be.

Once off the ridge a long boggy walk back to the car followed. Every footstep seemed to squeeze up 2-3 inches of water which, thankfully, never quite seemed to come over the www.shrewsburymc.com -6 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places boot tops. Back in Bala for around 4:30 we were confident of finding a tea-room, but for the second time this year we found everywhere closed and ended up in the chip shop for our refreshments! Summing up, all enjoyed the walk. The area is hard walking but certainly has its attraction and would be even better with good visibility. Clwt y Bel maintenance weekend Thanks to the ongoing efforts of people like Joe North, Harry Gregory, Rog Edenborough and Judy Preece, there was not too much to do to get the hut ready for winter. Harry, Rog and Judy were there plus Rog Skews and myself. Adrian Wilcock turned up about 3pm but his efforts achieved more in the next 3 hours than the rest of us had done all day! I am pleased to report that the mouse, who had been chewing up the sponges in the cupboard under the sink, is no more, as Judy had wisely purchased a ‘Little Nipper’. The hut ended up extremely clean and tidy and with freshly painted bits of wall in two of the bedrooms. Outside, the common room wall had sealant applied and the long grass was strimmed. Well done, ALL! Perfect Timing Moel Siabod, 29th October 2017, by Larry King A merry band of 9 of us set forth for Moel Siabod (MS). One or two of the group has nev- er been up MS before and another small handful had never experienced the wonderful views of the Snowdon Massif, that this mountain can offer. And so, with a “lunch time” weather forecast promising sunshine, a rain and cloud free summit, and de- creasing winds, we set off into the light mizzle with high expectations. It was just the timing of the forecast that was the question. The sun still hadn’t broken through by the time we reached the base of the ridge, despite taking the longer, sup- posedly “drier”, route around the tarn. The slightly more challenging scramble up the ridge was enjoyed by all, but still no breakthrough in the weather. So, we decided to shelter in the lee of the summit for our sarnies, with hopes of the sun- shine slowly ebbing. Finally, accepting that it would be what it would be, we were off for the final 200 metre ascent to the summit. www.shrewsburymc.com -7 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places And in that short 200 metre burst, as if by some divine intervention, the clouds dissipated and the sunshine rolled in to provide the stunning views that we were hoping for. The forecast wasn’t wrong, it was just a matter of timing. The route back was via the scenic highway to Plas-y-Brenin, where the traffic was heavy with several other large groups also taking advantage of the weather. To top the day off, we headed for the Royal Oak in Betws-y-Coed with some breaking with tradition to have a couple of beers rather than the traditional “cuppa tea”. And, it had its desired effect on the return journey. Whilst some drifted somnolently into other worlds, others just could- n’t be shut up. It was a great day all round. CHILE (part I) The Atacama Desert, by Jan Campbell

After a 14 hour flight from Heathrow to Santiago and experiencing a time change of 4 hours we flew north the next day to Calama (2 hours) and then by road (1½ hours) to San Pedro de Atacama and the oasis that is the Hotel Kimal. Whew!

San Pedro (2,400m) is the tourist hub and we had a relaxing 5 nights here with excursions at ever higher altitudes to see the sights each day. Highlights certainly included Rainbow Valley which is aptly named with its rocks in all shades of colour including greens, pur- ples, blues and browns and eroded into spiky shapes. Then the next day we visited the Laguna Chaxa which is in the middle of the Atacama Salt Flat and is home to the Chile- an and Andean flamingos as well as some avocets, sand pipers and plovers, all seem- ingly at home with the salty water and a stunning back- drop of the Andes. Going higher on day 3, we had an early start for one of the Chilean and Andean flamingos, picture taken by Jan Campbell highest geyser fields in the world which lies at 4,300 m near El Tatio; there are 80 active geysers gurgling and splut- tering away prior to shooting their jets of boiling water skywards and in the early morn- ing just after sunrise this was an eerie experience. On our final day we had a spectacular drive up to 4,900 m before descending to the Salar de Tara and the huge landscape of more salt flats, lagoons and the Tara ‘cathedrals’ which are amazing.rock formations.

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On top of all that we also had a fascinating tour of the night sky from a Canadian astronomer at a local observatory and the opportunity to look through 10 different telescopes set up for tourists, including one aimed at Saturn. I can honestly say that I can’t remember much of what we were told but it was really interesting at the time and I did learn that the signs of the Zodiac are all in line and that you have to have a very good One of the highest geyser fields in the world at 4,300 m near El Tatio, picture taken by Jan Campbell imagination!

Despite being a geographer I was surprised by the variety of scenery in a relatively small area of desert and despite the altitude and dryness of the atmosphere felt it was a very worthwhile place to visit. Next it was back to Santiago for a night and then out to Easter Island.

Part II to be continued in January’s edition. Tara rock formations, picture taken by Jan Campbell

NEPAL SMC trekking to Annapurna Base Camp, by Evelyn Over In the usual way, this expedition started with a pint after an SMC walk (for factual accuracy at the Miners Arms, Priestweston), on a Tuesday night. Mike suggested to Grahame that they might consider a trek in Nepal and Grahame readily agreed though said he forgot about this by the following day. Mike was our leader and he asked Rick and Jan’s friend DR (Dasharatha Rai) to organise the trek. DR’s company is Grace Trek (www.gracetrek.com) which is based in Kathmandu. DR planned the route and booked our tea houses along the route. He was our guide, his colleague Rajin was our sherpa and we had two porters, Limbu and Dipak, to carry our bags. www.shrewsburymc.com -9 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places

We all met at Hotel Vaishili in Kathmandu in early October to prepare for our 11 day trek to Annapurna base camp, which is 4,100m altitude. Mike, Grahame and Dave Stanley had just been enjoying a few hectic days in Delhi on rickshaw rides and visiting the Taj Mahal.

We flew to Pokhara (the perks of our maturer years includes not have to travel by bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara for at least 9 hours). DR then arranged for a taxi to get us to the start of the trek at Nayapol. For the first few days, we walked uphill on good paths through bamboo and rhododendron forests and beside the roaring River Modi. The walking was strenuous and tested our leg muscles and breathing. We stayed at tea houses along the route, which were mostly clean and well organised. The food was very good especially the Dhal Bhat (lentil curry and rice). Dave, who has a tomato allergy, was expert at explaining that there must be no tomatoes in his food – this was often difficult as tomatoes, lentils and rice are the main component of most trekking meals. We drank almost exclusively hot lemon tea which kept us well hydrated as we trekked higher. DR also recommended that we had no alcohol on the trek in case of problems with altitude sickness – this was a wise decision as none of us suffered too seriously with Graham, Mike, Eve, Vet Dave and the rest of the team headaches when we reached ABC.

On the third morning of our trek, along with many other trekkers, we walked up to 3,100m to Poon Hill. We all felt very breathless but the views were staggering – Dhaulagiri to the north, the Annapurnas and Manasulu to the east. We then trekked from Ghorepani below Poon Hill to various tea houses along the route. . We had to cross swing bridges and often wait for packs of mules laden with calor gas cans and other supplies. They knew where they were heading and stopped for no trekkers or porters.

One evening, we stopped at Deurali tea house at 3,230m. We all settled down for a night’s kip and immediately dogs started to bark and continued to early morning. We all had vivid thoughts on what to do with these dogs, who in the morning appeared at the tea house calm and very tired. Afterwards, we heard that they were bringing down sheep www.shrewsburymc.com -10 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places From the mountains for the Diwali festival in late October. We reached Annapurna base camp (ABC) on Sunday, 15th October. Some of us had thought we would not make it, so we all felt it was a wonderful achievement and only because of our very supportive guide, DR. At ABC we walked 100m above our hostel, so that we might get a better night’s sleep (though this, unfortunately, didn’t work, as some of us struggled with breathing at that height). We all got up early to see sunrise over the Annapurna and felt we were in the company of some of mountaineering greats including Herzog, Chris Bonington and Ueli Steck. There was also a memorial to Ian Clough, who was killed on his descent as result of an ice fall on Bonington’s ascent of Annapurna south face in 1970. Our return journey from ABC was easier, though Grahame, with a recently fused ankle, may disagree. We again stayed in tea houses in gurung villages and, again, there were amazing views of the mountains. We passed through terraced farmland and crops included rice, millet, lentil, tea and occasional spices, such as ginger. We celebrated our final evening at Australian camp (so called because an Australian had bought the land with a view to developing a settlement there) with DR, Rajin and the porters. The porters were always smiling and happy, as they readily lugged our bags from one tea house to another. Limbu was very entertaining especially at cards, which he played with a Beeeeeeers!!! At last!!! serious intensity. All the Nepalese were definitely a match and often beat us resoundingly and with a huge grin. Mike, Grahame and Dave enjoyed their first beer for 11 days and Grahame sampled the millet wine – definitely an acquired taste. www.shrewsburymc.com -11 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places A massive thanks to DR and his colleagues for organising and leading us the most wonderful trek. Thanks too to Mike, Grahame and Dave for their company– we definitely enjoyed ourselves, kept ourselves well (on the whole) and had a fabulous memory of the stunning Himalayas and their happy, friendly people. DR’s ORPHANAGE Back in Kathmandu, we went to visit the wonderful new orphanage, which DR has set up to help destitute children. It has just been built just outside the city. SMC members including Rick, Jan and Mike have helped to fund this project by giving DR work when he visits the UK and the money he has received has helped to fund this building project. In the orphanage, there are 12 children aged between 8 and 19. We chatted to them – they are articulate, happy, full of life and some can speak 2-3 languages. They gave us a wonderful meal – Dhal Bhat of course – and it was good to spend time with them. The orphanage still needs regular income to support the children and pay for schooling and transport. Mike is setting up a link to the orphanage website, which will be available from the SMC website. If anyone in SMC is interested in donating, then here is the direct link to their website: www.gracehomenepal.org

www.shrewsburymc.com -12 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Upcoming Meets / Events by Jan Campbell

19th November, Creigiau Gleision 1st January 2018, Local Amble This is another hill you may not have done Local amble to blow away the New Year before. We will be doing Creigiau Gleision cobwebs. Meet at Secret Hills Discovery on the eastern edge of the Carneddau. Centre car park in at Meet at 8.00a.m. at Radbrook or 10.00a.m. 11.00a.m. at the car park at SH755617, which is along Contact Jan Campbell: a minor road from Trefriw (B5106) to the west of Llanwrst. Contact coordinator Gareth Egarr: 7th January 2018 Snowdon - Clogwyn y Garnedd,

Trinity face 1st-3rd December, Pre-Xmas Weather and conditions permitting. Meet First weekend in at Radbrook at 7.00a.m. or stay the December means it is weekend at Clwt y Bel. the hut pre-Xmas do. Contact coordinator Tony Mills: Have a day out on the

hills on Saturday and be

at the hut in time for mulled wine at 5.00 p.m. Last year 12 19th-20th January 2018 people enjoyed a huge communal Xmas dinner in the common room and it would Lake District be good to see even more people this year. This meet will be near Grasmere. A very Contact Jan Campbell as knowing upmarket independent hut has been numbers is necessary for catering: booked (www.grasmerehostel.co.uk). It sleeps 24 so get your name down on Brenda’s list a.s.a.p.! Contact coordinator Brenda Duffy: 17th December, Pre-Xmas local walk

Meeting at the Stiperstones Inn usually at 10a.m. but this LOOKING AHEAD... might change depending on what time they can fit us in. 17th-24th February, Scotland Check SMC website for the Staying at the Crubenmore Lodge between updates. Alternatively Dalwhinnie and Newtonmore. Contact coordinator Andy Bentley: Contact Jan Campbell to reserve a place:

www.shrewsburymc.com -13 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places

Tuesday Evening Walking Programme

Meet at 7.30pm or 9.00pm onwards at the pub or contact Rick Robson for further details on tel. nr.

Date Meeting Place Grid Ref Pub afterwards 05/12/17 Corbet Arms , Uffington 527137 The Bricklayers Arms, Shrewsbury Gateway lecture: Nicky Spinks N/A Gateway Centre, Shrewsbury (more on page 13) 12/12/17 Clive Church, Clive 515241 Railway Inn, Yorton

19/12/17 Snailbeach Village Hall 373022 The Horseshoes, Pontesbury

26/12/17 DEVIL’S DASH or DAWDLE 11.00 am Stiperstones start 02/01/18 Nesscliffe 389198 The Bricklayers Arms, Shrewsbury

09/01/18 Mytton Arms,Habberley 400035 Mytton Arms, Habberley

Gateway lecture: Steve McClure N/A Gateway Centre, Shrewsbury (more on page 13) 16/01/18 Mitchells Fold (bend in the road) 302977 Miner’s Arms, Priestweston

23/01/18 AGM – in the back room The Cock Inn, Hanwood

30/01/18 Robin Hood’s Butts 431964 Bottle & Glass, Picklescott

Thursday Evening Climbing Programme Meeting times to be confirmed by email or contact Scott Pardoe on tel. nr or Joe North on tel. nr on the day. There will usually be a group going from Radbrook at 18.00 to share lifts.

Date Venue Location 07/12/17 Wolf Mountain Wolverhampton

14/12/17 Climbing the Walls Shrewsbury

21/12/17 Climbing the Walls Shrewsbury

For January 2018 dates please refer to SMC website or contact Scot or Joe directly.

www.shrewsburymc.com -14 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Challenge walks in Shropshire

DATE NAME LOCATION LENGTH DETAILS

24th South South 25 miles www.ldwa.org.uk Feb18 Shropshire Shropshire Circular Mar Pontesbury Pontesbury 13 miles www.severnhospice.org.uk Potter May valley Clun http://clunvalleychallenge.com/ Challenge walk Jun Shropshire 6 Shropshire 36 miles www.shropshire6summits.org Summits walk Sep Wellington Wellington http:// walking www.wellingtonwalkersarewelcome.org.uk/ Festival.html Festival Sep Tour of the Wistanstow 12/18/26 www.ldwa.org.uk Marches miles Oct Long Mynd Church 50 miles www.longmyndhike.org.uk Hike Stretton Oct Montgomery Montgomery www.MontgomeryWalkingFestival.co.uk Walking Festival Dec Tinsel Trail 20 miles www.ldwa.org.uk

The http://www.shropshiresgreatoutdoors.co.uk/ Shropshire walking/the-shropshire-way/ Way Chris Badley 10 miles http://www.shropshiresgreatoutdoors.co.uk/ Walk route/pontesbury-walks-chris-bagley-walk/

Gill Harris Church 20 miles www.merciafellrunners.org.uk Round Stretton Jack Mytton 70 miles http://www.gps-routes.co.uk/routes/home.nsf/ Way routeslinkscycle/jack-mytton-way-walking-and- cycle-route

Kynaston's Shrewsbury 45 miles https://www.walkingenglishman.com/ldp/ way humphreykynastonway.html

Calendar Shropshire http://www.shropshiresgreatoutdoors.co.uk/ of events/list/? various tribe_event_display=list&tribe_paged=4#top events www.shrewsburymc.com -15 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places 2017 Club Photographic Competition

This is a reminder about this year’s competition. In the same fashion to last year there will be two categories – “Mountaineering” (people out there doing it in a broad sense) and “Landscape” (the environment/landscape/nature). Photographs do not have to be from a club meet, just as long as they were taken this year by a club member. There is a maxi- mum of 6 entries per category per person and there is no need to wait until the deadline; entries can be e-mailed to Gareth Egarr at any time. The final deadline is the 5th January 2018. All entries will be short-listed by a professional photographer and the short-listed photos will then be voted upon at the AGM. We had some fabulous entries last year from a variety of members. There were far more in the landscape category, so we could do with some more mountaineering ones please. I look forward to receiving your entries. Contact:

December 2017 / January 2018 Gateway Lectures

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