Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places November 2017 www.shrewsburymc.com [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places From the editor This is the last newsletter of 2017. Some of our members have been travelling overseas and they will share their experiences in this November issue. Some others have spent their weekend in Langdale and I must say that was a great one. Look out for a song written by Phil Latter. My usual contact details: This issue will cover: Deadline for the next newsletter 3 Langdale meet edition is 26th January 2018 due to AGM. 6 Moel Ysgyfarnogod Any photographs should be separate JPEG 7 Clwt y Bel maintenance weekend with a caption and your short and sweet 7 Moel Shiabod summaries should be sent to Vilma 8 Jan’s travels in Chile (part I) (contact details above). 9 Nepal, Annapurna base camp (ABC) 13 Upcoming Meets 14 Tuesday walks & Thursday climbs 15 Challenge walks in Shropshire 16 Photo competition 16 Winter lectures Many SMC members were sorry to hear of the death of Pete McAree's wife, Mary. Ten members travelled to Glasgow for the funeral and Pete has expressed his gratitude for our support. Pete also sends his heartfelt thanks to all those who could not attend but who sent cards, emails, and letters. He received over 60 cards in total and this means a lot to him. We send Pete our best wishes and look forward to seeing him out again on Lakes/Scottish meets. Front cover: Langdale Map—September weekend meet arranged by Brenda Duffy. www.shrewsburymc.com -2 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Langdale meet, 15th-17th September, by Brenda Duffy Panorama on the way up/down to/from Bowfell; photo taken by Brenda Duffy This was our first stay at the Raven Crag Hut, but based on good feedback I think we will be back. It’s owned by the BBRCC, originally a club for Barclays Bank staff but now an independent mountaineering club. The hut has a superb location perched on the hill behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel with a great choice of walks and climbs right from the door. Adrian and Jerry had started Raven Crag; photo taken by Brenda Duffy the weekend with a day out on Friday, climbing Middlefell Buttress and Main Wall at Gimmer. Saturday morning was gloriously sunny and Annie Pearce joined six of the group (Brenda, Sue Cunningham, Tony Mills, Andy Bentley, Jon and Anne Yeeles) for a stomp up to Bowfell via Angle Tarn. We carried on to Crinkle Crags and Great Knott, enjoying fantastic views all the way round. Vilma and Phil Latter climbed Holly Tree Traverse on Raven Crag, Vilma’s first real multi-pitch climb. She thoroughly enjoyed it despite the unusually hard Bowfell; photo taken by Andy Bentley start and an exciting abseil descent due to wet and dangerous conditions! www.shrewsburymc.com -3 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places They also did their good deed in assisting a man who was not sure of his way down. (Did he share the abseil?? Ed: yes, he did) Phil Holden and his son Pete climbed some nice single pitch Diffs and V Diffs at Long Scar on Pike o' Blisco. Phil later nipped up to Wrynose and Hardnott passes on his bike in the evening sun. Adrian and Jerry climbed Savernake Mild Severe, while Heather and Pam went for a low level walk. On Saturday evening all fourteen of us had an entertaining evening at the Sticklebarn pub with a At Sticklebarn pub, photo taken by Brenda surprisingly cheap meal! On the Sunday Tony and Adrian climbed on Raven Crag—Revelation HS 4c *** A gem of a climb high on the climber’s wish list. Elevation HS 4c ** Just as good as the above but without the overhanging crack and lack of gear in it. Anne and Jon Yeeles and Andy Bentley got a few more Wainwright ticks with Pike o’Blisco, down to the Wrynose Pass road and back via Blea Tarn. Phil Holden, Brenda and Pete did a couple of scrambles on Harrison Stickle and Pike o'Stickle (with a quick dip in Stickle Tarn for Phil). Others walked via the Band to Bowfell and had a quick visit to the Three Tarns for a photo shoot, then back via Angle Tarn enjoying the sunshine all the way. Holly Tree Traverse, by Phil Latter Having arrived at about 1.00 pm on Friday, we stored our gear, had a coffee break then set out to check out Raven Crag which is behind the cottage. A well worn track led straight to the Crag in about 15 minutes. We spent about 90 minutes locating various features ready for climbing on Saturday. Saturday morning, back at Raven Crag we set up to climb "Holly Tree Traverse " VDiff. There were several parties on the Crag at that time, so it was a slow start. The first pitch proved to be quite difficult (it felt like 4b), but we finally Phil revisiting the Three Tarns; picture taken by arrived at the first stance. As it was Vilma Vilma’s first real rock climb, she looked www.shrewsburymc.com -4 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places a bit pale! But after a short while, the smile was back. From here the route opened up into a lovely outing with positive hand holds and good foot placements, which when combined with the sunshine and fine views across the valley, it was a great place to be. The final pitch was a short corner which lead to grassy ledges, where we un-roped. At this point we met a couple, who were also descending, and lady refused to use the regular way down. When we got there it looked greasy and dangerous, so we agreed to abseil. A large rock provided a good anchor, then we went down in tandem to arrive on the path below. Vilma reckoned that this was the best part of the day. Back at the rucksacks we had some refreshments, then back to the cottage for tea and medals! Ed: After such great experience Phil got so inspired and wrote a song about our adventure, which I decided to share with you. Here it is: Phil said: we’ll start by that pinnacle! Phil said: why you’re looking so pale? Vilma said: you sound so cynical! We’re about to do the abseil. I’m just doing the best I can Set up the anchor and clip in your gear Cause I’m just a crazy climbing man! Get it right—no cause for fear! Chorus: <<Chorus>> <<I got the blues—Raven Grag blues I’m no use because I got Raven Grag blues!>> A guy turned up wearing a frown Phil said: we can share the rope to get down After the first desperate pitch `Thanks` he said `cause I lost my wife Vilma said: that was a bitch! You two probably saved my life!` My legs are shaking and my hands are weak You’ve turned me into a rock climbing freak! <<Chorus>> After some pitches we’re on our way down We looked at each other and shared a frown This is a position with no hope We’ll just have to use our rope. <<Chorus>> Let’s continue with the tradition of creating songs & poems about our adventures. We continued the night with wine, beer, whisky, tea and some life music. BBCCC members arrived to the cottage later in the evening and mingled with us until about midnight. We had a fabulous time! On Sunday, we walked via The Band to Bowfell. This included some navigation practice and a visit to the Three Tarns, which gave great views. Returning via Angle Tarn, we were overtaken by a lady running down with Nordic walking poles. Lower down we spotted her bathing in the stream!!! A long walk out but back by 3.00-ish. A shower and coffee, then home. www.shrewsburymc.com -5 - [email protected] Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club Friends in High Places Moel Ysgyfarnogod, by Andy Bentley Very few people visit the Rhinogs, especially the northernmost ones, so this was always a place I’d always wanted to walk, but on Saturday morning it looked like I might be doing so alone: the weather forecast had been reasonable yet I had no definite takers. By Sunday morning though I had five companions (Graham D, Kevin Draper, Alenka, Dave Baldock, Malcom Metcalfe) in spite of a deteriorating prediction. We set off in dry conditions and walked in a vaguely north- westerly direction gaining height until we were on the ridge we planned to follow for the day. The summit of Moel Gyrafolen was a stone’s throw Andy, Graham, Kevin , Alenka, Dave & Malcom away, but we opted to follow the route card and head for straight for Diffwys instead. From there we continued west dropping down slightly before climbing Foel Penolau were the fun began. This is really rocky summit, which required a short scramble to get to the top of it - a long scramble, if you don’t get the approach right. We did spread out slightly but all safely reached the top at roughly the same time. There was only one direction we could scramble down – a little frustrating as it was 90 degrees off where we could see we were heading next. The next peak was Moel Ysgyfarnogod, which apparently translates from Welsh as “Bare Hill of the Hares” (none were to be seen).