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Footwear Insight is published bi-monthly: Bluprint strives for CEO Rob DeMartini Forget uppers. It’s It’s a footwear Beck’s branches On-trend for summer, Jan/Feb; Mar/Apr; May/Jun; Jul/Aug; Sep/ a West Coast casual has venerable all about the sole fast-forward as out beyond the box women’s sandals fuse Oct; and Nov/Dec by Formula4 Media LLC. aesthetic; Minnetonka athletic brand New nowadays as brands brands get retro with with new women’s an outdoor vibe with

Subscriptions: one year, $24.00 (U.S. Funds) mans up; Spenco Balance poised for a focus on new modern twists on concept store Sko. style and comfort. in the United States. All other countries, $54.00 creates new memories. transformation. designs underfoot. classic sneaker styles. (U.S. Funds) for surface mail. Postmaster: Send address changes to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318, Great Neck, NY 11023 On the cover: Skechers. Above: Bernie Mev. Photography by Frank James. ™ TIMEOUT | MARK SULLIVAN NO RISK MASHED

choice POTATOES

MY MOM IS A TERRIBLE COOK. She never had much interest and also worked to feed five kids in the era when food companies were marketing “instant and easy” for busy moms. On no-meat Fridays, she would make us Bumble Bee tuna and canned spaghetti. Most other nights, we’d get Swanson’s frozen dinners or Hamburger Helper. But the absolute worst thing she would feed us was powdered mashed potatoes from a box. They were bland, boring and totally uninteresting. Unfortunately that same description can be applied to the merchandise mix of many shoe stores I visit. Like my mom, many of these shoe store owners are doing their best under difficult circumstances. They, too, have many mouths to feed and not a lot of resources. But while their customer base is crying out for WHILE THEIR gourmet creations, these shoe stores are serving CUSTOMER BASE up mashed potatoes from a box. Intellectually, I understand why this is healthy IS CRYING OUT happening. Retailers, especially the bigger stores, FOR GOURMET are afraid of risk. They are playing it safe, afraid CREATIONS, THESE to make mistakes. The result is a no pain, no gain SHOE STORES strategy that takes virtually no risks and yields very few rewards for the store or the consumer. ARE SERVING UP An industry veteran I know who got his start as a MASHED POTATOES buyer for a New York department store remembers his boss telling him: “If you’re not making mistakes, the FROM A BOX. you are not doing your job.” The counsel was simple. Try things, take a few risks and show our shoppers something they haven’t seen yet. It was great advice that my friend still remembers today. Unfortunately, young buyers today are not getting that same advice. They are most likely told “make a mistake and you’re gone. We’ll promote that kid from housewares who makes such beautiful spreadsheets.” There is an old axiom that no stockbroker ever got fired for buying IBM. That stock was considered a safe- risk free buy. But that’s when IBM was considered a state-of-the-art technology stock. Before Dell. Before Apple and before the Internet. The world is changing every day and many shoe stores look the same. I’m not suggesting that stores go crazy. I’m suggesting they play to win. Internet retailers win by offering color and depth of assortment. Shoe stores that carry the same styles as everyone else in town are setting themselves up to lose. I took my mom to Trader Joe’s recently. It was like being on a trip to the jungle with an anthropology student. What was typically a 30 minute visit for me turned into an hour and a half with my mom. She was fascinated by the selection and the all the choices. We bought frozen Indian food that can be heated in boiling water. I spoke to her the next day and she said she loved it. I hope my mom’s culinary adventure can be an inspiration to everyone. Bon Appetit.

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LIFESTYLE

Bluprint for Comfort Bluprint strives for a West Coast casual aesthetic.

hen Dave Ortley joined DJO to help develop a premium be confident selling the shoes because they know the fit will be reliable comfort line, he had three goals. and consistent.” First, he wanted to create a product that had its own Bluprint will also strive for a “West Coast casual” aesthetic in its design, point of view and looked different from other brands according to Ortley. The initial collection for both men and women fea- on the market. “We didn’t want to be a ‘me, too’ brand,” tures simple pattern shapes, premium materials, discreet branding and the he says. Secondly, he wanted to develop a meaningful absence of adornments. Ortley says the shoes offer a generous fit in both Wcomfort technology that was easy to explain. And finally, he wanted to build height and width and a lower profile design. The Bluprint collection uses a line that would appeal to independent footwear specialty retailers. “We full grain leather, Nubuck, medium nap suede and waxed canvas for upper want long-term partners and believe the independents are well-positioned to materials. The goal, says Ortley, is to have the uppers hug and conform to handle new brands and shoes like the ones we set out to create.” enhance support. The result of DJO’s efforts can be seen in Bluprint, the men’s and The insoles are made from a molded polyurethane base and have an women’s comfort brand it introduced earlier this year. Ortley says the enhanced heel cup. On top of that is four millimeters of memory foam that collection is built around an anatomical last built by Jones & Vining. “It’s Ortley says will offer personalized fit in addition to cushioning. “The shoes a single last that will allow us to develop a consistency in our fit whether are comfortable, but also offer great fit and sure footedness.” it’s a shoe, a boot or a sandal,” he says. “The consistent fit will allow the Retail prices range from $79 for sandals to $239 for boots, with an average sales associates on the retail floor to develop faith in the shoes. They will price of $140. The first shoes are set to ship to retail in July. O

KNEED FOOTWEAR New Insole Brand Launch

onathan Koops and Karen Henry, who worked together at Sole and are currently the Canadian distributors for Addaday, are launch- ing Kneed Footwear with a line of insoles that they say will be sold only through independently owned running and footwear stores. The Kneed insole line features two main products: The Kneed2Run is a full-length insole designed to replace the foot bed that comes Jwith branded running shoes and The Kneed2Be is a three-quarter length insole for use in casual and every day footwear. The Kneed2Run insoles will sell for $49; The Need2Be series will retail for $29. Koops says of independent retail- ers, “We want to support them and believe we can build a business doing so.” The Kneed Insoles feature a biomechanically shaped moldable base that Koops Caption text. Equibus experspel enit, says ensures support from heel to ball of the foot. All products use Poron, Kneed insoles feature a biomechanically shaped moldable base. which Koop says is “the best performance cushioning for impact absorption.” O

6 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com

THEFOOTWEAREYE

REVAMPED COMFORT Minnetonka Spenco Creates Mans Up New Memories

Spenco Memory Foam sandals.

SPENCO MEDICAL CORPORATION HAS BEGUN SHIPPING ITS new line of structured memory foam sandals and slides, which offer “the initial softness of memory foam with the added benefit of structural integrity,” says Jeff Antonioli, Spenco’s VP–sales and marketing. “It’s like taking a high-quality mattress and adding a pillow top,” says Antonioli. “The underside offers long-lasting support, while the top offers comfort and cushioning.” The styles that come with memory foam in the new Spring line are the Pure Sandal for men and women and the Thrust Slide for men. Technical four-way stretch nylon encapsulates the substantial layer of memory foam that sits atop the Total Support footbed. The low-friction fabric helps reduce shear that can cause hot spots and blisters. Silpure antimicrobial agent inhibits the growth of bacteria that can cause odor. “Runners and other athletes really should think about how they are caring for their feet at all times — not just when they’re racing or training,” says Antonioli. “Not everyone realizes that slipping on a flimsy flip-flop or slide after a race is asking for trouble.” The memory foam sandals and slides retail for $69.99. O

Minnetonka has revamped its men’s slipper collection to make the MADE IN USA sheepskin footwear more durable and versatile. The Sheepskin The Casual Shark Moose Slipper combines moose hide leather and a sheepskin lining on a rubber sole so shoes can be worn inside and out. TheO shoes are made in the Dominican Republic and retail for $89.95.

The Shark for men by Klogs.

THE NEW SHARK FROM KLOGS IS A POLYURETHANE SHOE for men suitable for casual and workplace use.The Shark features slip-resistant, non-marking shock absorbing outsoles and removable/replaceable insoles. The shoes are available in three colors – Men’s slippers by Minnetonka. Black, Smoke, and Denim, and are made in Sullivan, MO. O

8 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com

TheFootwearEye

MARKETING New Brand Campaign for Merrell

errell is kicking media component also encourages off a new brand consumers to engage with the platform under brand. “The goal is to engage the tagline “Do consumers in conversation,” What’s Natural.” Brunzell says. “People want to tell The platform will their stories and share it with others Mdebut with an integrated marketing and we hope this campaign inspires campaign, including traditional them to do it.” advertising and consumer activation The campaign coincides with through social media, brand Merrell’s sponsorship of The Tough ambassadors and partnerships. Mudder adventure racing series, “We believe this platform captures which was announced late last year. who Merrell is as a brand,” says Linda “The Tough Mudder series is a Brunzell, Merrell’s chief marketing great fit for us because those races officer. “We’re about performance, are not so much about winning or but also pleasure and play.” posting a time as they are about Brunzell says the overall marketing having an experience and sharing effort, which will include messaging, that experience with friends,” says content and product, will be focused Brunzell. on “our belief that nothing should get The platform messaging will also in the way of enjoying active outdoor extend to store fixturing and point-of- adventures.” sale materials and displays. Brunzell Merrell’s campaign also shows says Merrell’s field marketing reps will how brands are going about also make sure stores have the digital targeting consumers today. The assets they need to take advantage campaign features print and of the marketing for their individual The new campaign aims to capture who Merrell is as a brand. digital advertising, but its social stores. l

NEW BRAND

The Pinnz high top styles Bowling for Dollars have a fold down feature.

he daughter of the man and are available in both high and low who turned the bowling top designs. shirt into a fashion staple The high top styles feature a patent- is introducing a line of pending fold down feature that enables footwear inspired by what them to convert to low tops. The line else — bowling shoes. also pays homage to its bowling heritage TPatti Nast Canton, whose father Nat with a third shoe concept that plays on Nast developed a namesake collec- the trend of wearing mismatched shoes. tion of shirts that became favorites of Consumers can buy “a pair and a spare,” Hollywood types like Charlie Sheen and which features a pair of shoes with a Larry David, has rolled out Pinnz, a line “spare” left shoe. “Celebrate different is of casual canvas shoes. Nast Canton ran our tag line,” says Nast Canton, “and the the family brand for a number of years pair and the spare is just one way our and says she was inspired to introduce shoes allow people to do that.” a shoe collection by some of her dad’s The collection features men’s, vintage shirt designs. women’s and children’s designs. The “It’s a simple idea for complicated shoes are made in Mexico and retail for times,” she tells Footwear Insight. If between $50 and $70. world famous bowler Dick Weber and Pinnz is targeted toward a select sneaker pioneer Chuck Taylor collabo- group of national accounts and will be rated on a shoe line, it would be Pinnz. represented by Doug and Amy Hoyt The shoes feature the brightly color and Bruce Finestone, of DBA Sales, blocked designs used in bowling shoes Robert Mangione and Doug Chandler. l

10 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2016 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564.

INTRODUCING A NEW AND EXCITING ARRAY OF MEN’S STYLES FEATURING THE DANSKO UPGRADE: Premium, water-resistant leathers, slip-resistant outsoles, and a footbed utilizing our innovative Comfort Upgrade System.

CONTACT YOUR SALES REP TO SEE THE ENTIRE FALL ’16 LINE THEFOOTWEAREYE

Sporto’s new Duck Boot styles COLLABORATION feature Vibram IceTrek tech. Sporto’s 40th Birthday Gift

Sporto is celebrating the 40th Anniversary of the Duck Boot with a collaboration with Vibram that utilizes the outsole maker’s new IceTrek technology. The collection will be available for Fall 2016 with five designs for women and will also re-introduce men’s offerings to the Sporto brand with a capsule collection of four styles. Each shoe will be constructed with handcrafted all-weather treated leather uppers and will feature traditionally vulcanized rubber shells and the new Vibram outsoles built for traction on wet, dry and icy surfaces. Styles will also feature Thermolite and wool insulation in the footbed with “duck head” inspired detailing along the side. Retail prices will range from $110–$140. O

RE-LAUNCH A New Message for a 46-year-old Brand

Step & Stride Spencer Step & Stride Derby Step & Stride Kate

ida Kids is re-introducing The Step & Stride brand with a that comes with the shoe to reveal an additional insole beneath it. The two- collection built around fit, comfort and wellness for toddlers insole system allows children to keep the same pair of shoes for a little longer, and infants. even when their feet grow, by removing the insole to create more space in the Vida recently purchased the 46-year-old brand, which had shoe. The same system allows children with wider feet to get a better fit by been out of the market for the past five years, and has devel- removing the “first” insole. oped a broad collection of shoes that makes use of Ortholite The brand showcases the system on each pair of shoes with a nifty tab that Vinsoles in an interesting way. says “pull for wide feet.” Ortholite supplies insoles for most of the top selling athletic shoes in the The introduction of Step & Stride expands Vida Kid’s portfolio to six brands market and emphasizes its cushioning, support and moisture wicking proper- in total, including Carter’s, OshKosh, JambuKD, M.A.P. and Hanna Andersson ties. In the new Step & Stride line, the Ortholite insoles are part of what the The collection features dress, casual and boots. Retail prices are $30 to $35 brand is calling a “magical” fit system, in which parents can remove the insole for infant shoes and $35 to $49 for toddlers. O

12 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com

THEFOOTWEAREYE

SNEAKER CULTURE Taking Stock in Kicks

By Bob McGee sneakers known as “deadstock” to trade on its exchanges. And the Detroit company says it will neakerheads the world over have not settle “trades” until it has verified that the a new go-to website. StockX, a sneakers are “100 percent authentic.” site co-founded by sneaker data On its launch day, the site website founder Josh Luber and had more than 15,000 pairs Dan Gilbert, founder and chair- of limited-edition sneakers man of Quicken Loans and owner representing 3500 models Sof the NBA’s Cleveland Cavaliers. It debuted in available for sale. At day’s February, days before NBA All-Star Weekend end, StockX showed it had and some key basketball shoe launches that 9574 portfolios represent- coincided with the event. ing 112,926 sneakers with The site pitches itself as a “live bid/ask mar- a market value of nearly ketplace,” or “stock market” for buying and Josh Luber $43.9 million. The most selling limited edition, high demand sneakers. popular shoe on Day 1 was StockX charges customers a seven percent fee the Jordan 9 retro Statue with 53 sales. But the for selling sneakers on its platform with a pay- biggest Market Mover over the previous 72 hours ment processing company taking another three was the Air Max 90 Atmos Duck Hunter Camo at percent from sellers on transactions before they $1407, up $797, or 129 percent. are paid via Paypal. The highest price kicks in the StockX StockX will only allow unworn, original boxed Marketplace? Jordan 4 Retro Eminem Carhartt’s

had no current price lists, but the last pair sold for $21,327. A pair of Nike Dunk SB Low Paris were being hawked for $10,015; Nike Air Mags “Back to the Future” for $9,012. There are three Indexes across the top of the website — the Jordan Index, the Nike Index and EON (Everybody Other Than Nike) Index. The EON, an estimate of U.S. resell sales over the previous 24 hours for all non-Nike shoes tracked by the site, was up 8.2 percent on opening day. The Nike Index was 32 percent higher at 170,622; Jordan was down 5.3 percent to 308,991. “The online secondary sneaker market has been around for more than 15 years and it has grown exponentially during that time,” says Luber. “But, it was still using outdated e-com- merce platforms designed in the ’90s.” While it’s still unclear whether the key ath- letic brands will embrace the concept behind StockX, the betting here is yes. Besides the ability to trade their wears, site users will find historical price and volume metrics, real- time bids and offers, time-stamped trades and additional analytics on every model for sale. There will also be U.S. and global sneaker news. StockX says it has plans to eventually expand into other consumer products that have a natu- ral need for a secondary market. O

14 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com

BRANDPROFILE

New Balance Goes Next Level

Jennifer Ernst Beaudry — New Balance is aggressively courting younger runners, both high school and post-collegiate. The company is t’s a new era at New Balance. In the past six months, also prioritizing product innovation, expanding its sport the 110-year-old athletic firm has made one big footprint and putting a full-court press on female consum- announcement after another. In September of 2015, ers. And it’s banking on that new digital division to drive the firm opened its splashy new 250,000-square- deeper connections with consumers across the board. foot headquarters in Boston, the centerpiece of a DeMartini says the company has seen growth average redevelopment plan spearheaded by chairman Jim 16 percent every year since 2010, taking the company to IDavis. In October, the brand known for its distance running $3.7 billion in annual sales in 2015 from $1.78 billion. And stable signed sprinter Trayvon Bromell, and in December according to the CEO, the investments the company has signed a 10-year deal to replace ASICS as the apparel and made and is continuing to make should let it double their footwear sponsor of the New York City Marathon. business again in the next few years. And to kick off 2016, at the Consumer Electronics Show, “The culture is healthy, the company’s healthy, we’re A sweeping brand president and CEO Rob DeMartini appeared at a growing in almost every market in the world and we’ve keynote with Intel to announce that the company was got a lot of big investments in big challenges, which, that’s slate of launching a Digital Sport division that will release a smart what you want,” DeMartini says. watch by holiday, as well as initiatives like a virtual run One of the highest profile of those investments was announcements club set for this spring, also when the company will debut the New York Marathon sponsorship, part of a deal that a new shoe with a fully 3-D printed midsole. commits the brand to year-round events and races in hints at the But according to DeMartini, all the newness is the end partnership with race organizer New York Road Runners. result of more than four years of behind-the-scenes work Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but are said to exceed transformation to push New Balance to entirely new level. more than $10 million annually, far above the $3 million “The vision is clear: to be the number one running Asics was said to pay annually. In 2016 New Balance will CEO Rob brand in the world, and a top-three global athletic brand,” begin working on other races, building on the Brooklyn DeMartini tells Footwear Insight in an exclusive interview. Half Marathon it’s sponsored for the past three years; DeMartini has “We believe that our track record, our history, our global in 2017, it will sponsor all the NYRR races, including the footprint and our deep connection to running give us every marathon, which is the world’s largest. planned for permission to compete for that space. By no means do “We’ve sponsored Brooklyn for three years now and we we think it’s easy to get there, but we do think we have did not stumble into that,” DeMartini says. “Brooklyn has the venerable the right to compete to get there.” become a party that has a great half-marathon attached to To take on the big players — Nike did $30.6 billion in it and that’s what [NYRR] wanted. They wanted something athletic brand. sales globally last year, and rang up $15.89 billion that would involve the city, involve consumers beyond

16 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com just the people who run.” New Balance is banking on its apparel line – rejuvenated Brooklyn has also been a success, DeMartni says, in by the leadership of VP–global apparel Deirdre FitzGerald, reaching a younger consumer, a major brand goal. “We’re who the company hired in 2014 – to lead. after two consumers. We’ve termed one the Game Changer “Historically, if you were male and liked blue and grey, — the high school athletes. That’s a significantly younger we were the perfect company for you — we’re trying to [consumer] than where we’ve been recently. And then the grow past that,” DeMartini says. “If we win with women, Metropolitan consumer is more in our historical sweet spot. we’ll win with men, because she’s much more discerning We call that the 25- and 26-year-old and above,” he says. and has many more choices and much better sense of The Brooklyn Half has moved the needle with the style, everything.” Metropolitan group, DeMartini says — to go after the teen Naperville Running Co.’s Hartner said he’s been impressed segment, the brand is looking to the track and field world. with the progress. “The apparel is vastly improved. It’s Signing 20-year-old Brommel, the first junior runner to beat not even comparable to what they had before,” he says. 10 seconds in the 100 meters and a close second-place The store is doing a shop-in-shop with NB later this year, a finish in the 100 meters in the U.S. Trials this summer, is step he says he wouldn’t have considered even a year ago. part of a larger strategy that includes its sponsorship since The brand’s style focus is one that pays off in the 2010 of the high school Indoor and Outdoor Nationals. lifestyle arena, too. Analyst Matt Powell characterizes “The high school track athlete loves the fact that we’re the brand’s classics and retro business as “terrific,” and the sponsor,” he says. “It’s an effort to get legitimately sneaker shop Concepts, based in neighboring Cambridge, young — not buying the younger consumer, but involving says its long-term partnership on product and exclusives and observing in a way that helps their track career and has been “exceptional.” being a brand they can say, yeah, ‘I’ll associate with that.’” “New Balance has been Concepts’ longest partner and Naperville Running Co. owner Kris Hartner says the high throughout the partnership we have been working together school athletes who shop his two stores in Naperville, to grow the industry, with a hyper-focus on being industry “The culture IL, are proof the strategy is working: “New Balance has leaders in story telling,” Concept’s business development good market share and it’s much much higher than [it is manager Greg Zuckerman says. “Their ability over the is healthy, the in for the store as a whole] — and for cross-country, the past couple of years to create new hybrid silhouettes has sell-through is really, really strong.” kept them ahead and keeps their customer base engaged company’s New Balance is taking over the store’s Spike Shed dedi- while also grabbing new demographics.” cated space this summer, he says — and as the sponsor And DeMartini says product is the key — for every market. healthy, we’re of a popular local cross country invitational, it’s steadily “If you look at every one of our growth periods, it has increasing its visibility with high school runners. always been tied to product innovation, and it has never growing in almost “The kids are wearing the product and getting it,” he says. been tied to marketing,” he says. “And I’m not suggesting And DeMartini says its track efforts position them marketing is not important. But it’s not enough to over- every market in strongly going into the Summer Olympics games in Rio. come so-so product.” “In our history, sprinting is a place we have not been Pushing the boundaries with initiatives like the 3-D the world and before, but If you’re going to be the number one running printed shoe the brand plans to unveil this spring are brand in the world, you need to play in all aspects of part of that. So is the new Digital Sport division, which we’ve got a lot of running,” he says. “And from a fandom standpoint, the DeMartini characterizes as an undertaking to bring the Olympics and the 100-meter dash get a lot of attention.” brand closer to consumers. big investments The goal, he says, is to stay top-of-mind. The first product – a smart watch the brand promises “While we clearly have the heritage and the credibility as will “untether” the runner his or her phone – will deliver in big challenges, a clear running leader, there is a pretty significant cohort for holiday this year. The group will partner with firms of younger consumers who would not necessarily put us such as Intel and Google and will focus on devices, sen- which, that’s in that category today. We’ve got to go back and recon- sors that can be incorporated into New Balance apparel firm our chops in that space,” he says. “We’re confident and footwear, and sports equipment. But primarily it will what you want.” we will, but that leads us to why Trayvon, why the New be a way to communicate with runners, DeMartini says. York City Marathon, why these bigger properties that get “For us, it’s not about devices. It’s about knowing the ROB DEMARTINI consumers’ attention on a global basis.” consumer better and then being able to serve him or But some of New Balance’s global ambitions have been her better,” he says. “Obviously the watch and the other growing its footprint in sports outside that running heritage. products we will launch will give us information, but In addition to robust programs in cricket and tennis, the today consumers are simultaneously turning over mas- company has been steadily expanding its share of cleated sive amounts of personal information but also expecting footwear. Baseball, which the brand launched small seven you to do something productive with it. We need to make years ago, has grown tremendously: today, DeMartini says, sure we’re channeling that back into something that makes more than one-third of MLB players wear New Balance. your running or walking or playing experience better.” The biggest move, however, has been establishing a It’s a new frontier for the company, DeMartini program targeting soccer, the world’s largest sport. In acknowledges. February of 2015, the brand announced it was entering “The pace that that business moves at is different from the football business with product as well as sponsor- our industry — for them, a year is forever. So I think that’s ships of four Premier League teams: Liverpool FC, Sevilla a risk — the consumer is very demanding and it all moves FC, Stoke City FC and Porto FC. It’s early yet, DeMartini quickly,” he says. says, but feedback has been good. “The push into soccer But the upside is big, he adds. is not for the weak of heart. But the early stages are very “Consumers are telling us what they want, we just have encouraging,” he says. to hear it,” he says. “It’s exciting as hell and it’s a huge Growing mind share with women is a key aim, too, and challenge.” O footwearinsight.com March/April 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 17 SOLE SEARCHING

It’s not all about the uppers anymore. The design interest in shoes these days is on the bottom. Outsoles are the new selling feature. Technical shoe brands have traditionally sold from the bottom of the shoe up. But now just about any brand can do that, emphasizing a soft crepe or rugged rubber lugs.

PHOTOS BY FRANK JAMES

Pikolinos Men’s Teide / MSRP: $210 / Vibram EcoStep Outsole made from 30 percent recycled rubber. Dr. Martens Winchester in Cherry Red / MSRP: $150 / Temperley full grain analine leather with a burnished finish and Dr. Martens air-cushioned sole. SOLE SEARCHING

Wolverine Crossbuck FX Ice+ boot with Vibram Artic Grip. Outsole is designed for grip and performance on slippery, wet surfaces. Thermochromatic lug senses when temperatures drop to 32˙F/0˙C.

Waldlaufer Siena in Black Nubuck/Zebra Print and Waldlaufer Sage in Black WR Nubuck / MSRP: $175 / TR Light Air Cushion Outsoles are made from Thermoplastic lightweight rubber.

SOLE SEARCHING

Blundstone 268 Rustic Brown for Fall ’16 / MSRP: $169.95 / Crepe rubber outsole with Blundstone branding. MEMORY FOAM RE-ENGINEERED

Technical Low-Friction Topcloth Helps reduce shear and friction that can cause blisters. Treated with Silpure Antimicrobial to reduce odor. Lightweight, Breathable Over-straps and soft, non-irritating toe posts hold the foot securely. Ordinary memory foam can’t be shaped into orthotic-grade contours, and although initially soft, it quickly bottoms out. Flat, memory foam insoles can increase foot motion causing friction that may lead to hot EVA Midsole spots and blisters. Additional cushioning and impact suppression—matched New Spenco® Structured Memory perfectly to the Spenco TS™ Foam is a proprietary, low-density Footbed. elastomeric PU foam that offers the initial comfort and softness of memory foam, but adds the benefit of structural integrity and increased resilience by being formed over Total Support® Technology. A deep heel cup combined with a medial and lateral arch support cradles the foot to redistribute pressure evenly across the footbed, which helps to prevent shearing forces that can lead to blisters.

Spenco® Total Support® Technology The perfect combination of deep heel cupping, flexible arch support, metatarsal support and forefoot cushioning. It’s The Shape That Feels Great® — the optimum interface between your foot and the ground.

For more info call 1-800-877-3626 or visit spenco.com

PURE TOE-POST SANDAL THRUST SLIDE SANDAL DIABETIC+ INSOLE

The perfect post-workout recovery sandals. Premium Full-length Insoles specifically Re-engineered from the ground up. designed for the diabetic foot. TOTALSUPPORT® Footbed with the added benefit of a TOTALSUPPORT® Technology with the added benefit soft Structured Memory Foam Layer for increased of a soft, Structured Memory Foam body. Friction- underfoot cushion and muscle recovery. Available with reducing SpenCore® Impact Zones and a Plastazote® top lightweight, breathable synthetic suede straps or soft, cover help eliminate pressure points that can cause stretchable overstraps for Full-Contact Comfort®. friction that leads to blisters.

® Registered and ™ Trademark of Spenco Medical Corporation © Copyright 2016. All Rights Reserved. Silpure and UltraFresh are Registered Trademarks of Thomson Research Associates, Inc., Plastazote is a registered trademark of Zotefoams, Inc.

SOLE Skechers GO FLEX Walk Mini-Flex / MSRP: $60 / Resalyte Sole is designed for flexibility and SEARCHING comfort. Mini-GOimpulse Sensors provide traction. Skechers Goga Mat Technology insole offers another element of comfort with high-rebound cushioning and the ultimate SQUISH feeling.

Dr. Martens Combs Fold Down field Washed Bernie Mev The Charm Shock in Canvas Boot in Graphite Grey / MSRP: $85 yellow and purple with extremely TC9 air-cushioned outsole, provides underfoot lightweight outsole / MSRP: $76; comfort and durability. It is oil- and fat-resistant, The Drew with more feminine and offers abrasion and slip resistance. rubberized outsole designed for flexibility / MSRP: $77. RETAIL REGISTRATION OPENS APRIL 1

June 9-10, 2016 / McCormick Place, Chicago

GREAT SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

ROBYN WATERS GRIFF LONG TESS ROERING TOM FLIERL Former VP of Trend, VP of Operations, CMO at VP of Marketing & Design and Product Equinox CorePower Yoga Business Strategy, Development at Target Hanson Dodge “Women’s Participation “A Conversation with “The Art of Tracking and Activities in Health Tess Roering of “The Future of Shopping and Translating Trends Clubs and How It CorePower Yoga” and the Active Woman’s into Sales and Profit” Impacts Your Business” Path to Purchase”

Exhibitors Contact: Beth Gordon [email protected] 949-293-1378 or your account manager Retailers Contact: Mark Sullivan [email protected] 646-319-7878

The Second Annual IRRA Summit / June 8, 2016

therunningandfitnesseventforwomen.com RETROSNEAKERS

K-Swiss is showcasing its classic sneaker style with a campaign celebrating the brand’s 50th anniversary.

Footwear Fast-Forward

By Suzanne Blecher where the sneaker is the modern day Vassall, senior product manager Brands Get wing-tip,” Downey comments. at NB. “Consumers wanted a more echnical advancements At Brooks, an update of the modern look with less overlays, Retro With get a lot of the buzz Chariot (released in 1982 as the more craftsmanship and something when it comes to first stability shoe in the running more breathable for those who Modern Twists athletic footwear, market) anchors the Brooks Heritage may be running in it,” he says. The on Classic T but there is most Collection. For Spring, the brand brand has tweaked the placement definitely still a place for vintage will release a custom sock liner for of the tongue to lock in from Sneaker Styles brands. “What was cool for our the Speed Varsity Chariot inspired top-to-toe, making for less sliding parents eventually becomes cool by the 1972 Olympics. The Beast 1, of it to the outside of the shoe. for us,” says Shane Downey, global based on the original version from An improved ENCAP technology director of heritage for Brooks. 1993 and re-released in 2015, adds adds additional cushioning and The sweats that “dads” once wore depth to the range and targets a increased medial support. are trendy again thanks to the trendy consumer. Re-released several times since athleisure movement. Court shoes Drawing from the 990, the first its 1994 debut, the Insta circa 1973 have bounced back in grey running shoe, New Balance is Pump Fury is set for another reinterpretations by the likes of Clae, hoping to bring in new consumers reboot with the Fury Lite Slip-On Michael Kors and Saint Laurent. “It’s with a sleeker, cleaner 990v4. “With for Spring and Fury Adapt for Fall. a weird time in the marketplace, with v3 in 2012, we got some consumer The original, which was part of the established versus new. It goes back feedback and some things to Pump series, was a “bold and crazy to the dressing down of America, improve upon,” noted Eric runner for its time, yet aggressive

26 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com and progressive,” says Philippe GT-DS is a hybrid based on the Bun, senior product manager original GT-II model launched for Reebok Classics. While the in 1986 where the upper stays Pump has disappeared, so has true to its traditional mold, yet about 30 percent of the weight incorporates components of the of the shoe in the Fury Lite. With Gel-DS trainer. new graphics, jacquards and premium leathers in the Classics Fit at 50 line, “we are showing our depth,” Founded in 1966, American Bun says. tennis brand K-Swiss celebrates The Fury Adapt has a TPU its 50th anniversary this year plate in lieu of a textile bladder, with a fresh ad campaign and along with a technical mesh for the release of a limited edition a bold look. Hexalite technology anniversary collection. The (inspired by the honeycomb) Anniversary Pack takes icons keeps shoes light, but still from the archives (The Classic provides ample cushioning. “We ’66, Irvine, The Classic VN, think that consumers are willing Surf ‘N Turf and Hoke) and to pay for the value of these uses modern technologies and shoes, but with that, we need premium materials (think gold to be on point and have great accents) in updated models. materials,” the exec says. The hand-assembled Classic ’66 “People have an affection for mirrors the first all-leather tennis the classics because they are shoe introduced at Wimbledon iconic and there is a hunger for in 1966 and is limited to 1966 designs that are authentic and numbered pairs globally. “Court hold a story. But at the same shoes are popular right now time, consumers don’t want to and this is one of the all-time compromise function, ” explains best sellers. Sneaker profiles are VP–footwear, getting bigger and this fits right Torben Schumacher. in our wheelhouse,” says K-Swiss The brand’s midsole Boost president Barney Waters. While technology is featured in its the original pair was fit for court running-inspired NMD (based or country club, today’s style is on the Micro Pacer, Rising Star a must-have for entrepreneurial and Boston Super), as well as the consumers seeking a clean, EQT line that “creates a unique white court shoe for a business combination of the iconic Adidas meeting, the exec notes. brand DNA with fresh designs Also 50 and fabulous, Vans and premium technologies,” the celebrates its heritage this year exec notes. The introduction with its 50th Anniversary Pro of Primeknit premium knit Classics collection. Kicking technology has pushed iconic off in March, Vans rolls out Stan Smith and Superstar models updated versions of its beloved into modern times. classics with enough releases “In the sneaker game, there to last throughout the year. is always a respect for the past The Era Pro ’76 combines the and the stories that literally next-generation function of the built this industry. We are first “Off the Wall” shoe with recreating yesterday’s legends the skate expertise of Powell for tomorrow’s consumer. Peralta skateboard founder This is much more of a design Stacy Peralta, who brought his mantra for our brand than it is knowledge to this style in 1976. a product specific approach,” The checkerboard Slip-On Pro, notes Cory Long, senior brand also to be re-released, takes us manager for Asics Lifestyle. back to Jeff Spicoli and “Fast Inspired by the popular Times at Ridgemont High,” heritage Gel-Lyte III, Asics’ while the American flag-inspired Gel-Lyte One Eighty introduces Era Pro ’83 pays homage to a new midsole, hybrid design BMX superstar Eddie Fiola. and seamless upper. Also Updates to the originals include mimicking the Gel-Lyte III, the new UltraCush footbeds that Gel-Lyte EVO NT has a new are lighter weight than their four-piece tooling and dual- predecessors. Vans’ goal is to density midsole combined enhance technology, but still with lightweight materials for stay true from its roots when it optimal breathability. The comes to design and ethos. O footwearinsight.com March/April 2016 ~ Footwear Insight • 27 RETROSNEAKERS

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Retro sneakers come back around

1. Vans Era Pro ‘83 2. Brooks Beast 1 3. New Balance 990v4 4. Brooks Chariot Heritage from the Speed Varsity Collection 5. Reebok Fury Lite 6. Asics GT-DS 7. Adidas Stan Smith 8. Adidas NMD R1.

28 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com (3,#ô̢

OPENING NIGHT PARTY JUNE 7TH | 6:30 9:00 PM BRYANT PARK GRILL RETAILSKO

Beck’s Branches Out Beyond the Box

Sko puts the focus on women.

By Aaron H. Bible concept store they are calling Sko. the first time we’ve gone away from New Sko is Danish for shoe, a gentle the family mold. It’s 100 percent n the world of family-run nod to the Beck family’s Danish fashion, focused on the female Concept legacy specialty retail shoemaker roots. consumer that we have not really chains, the name Beck’s The cousins’ great-grandfather tapped into before this.” Store almost always rises to the started the business in the U.S., The new Sko concept is a top of the conversation. around 1919, and he brought his fashion-forward, European com- Focuses on And while the multi- father over from Denmark to the fort, sit-and-fit boutique, building generational, privately Bay Area once it was established. on the Beck’s Shoes almost 100 Women’s held shoe business has “My cousin and I have both been year tradition of full service, with largelyI focused on the work wear/ working here since elementary a mission to “exceed everyone’s Fashion. industrial category, the current school, officially on payroll since expectations.” The 2180-square- generation of Beck’s, make that the we were about 14-years old,” Beck- foot Sko Footwear and Accessories fifth generation, will not be kept in Gomez says. “We 100 percent store, opened last October, is in the work wear box. grew up in this business.” She also the Capitola Mall near Santa Cruz, The latest generation of Beck’s – serves as the buyer for the chain’s where another Beck’s location, a namely the newly appointed COO Lifestyle category, manages the flagship store for the chain, has Julia Beck-Gomez and her cousin corporate facility in Campbell, CA, thrived for 20 years. Adam Beck (their dads are broth- works on software research and The other Beck’s Shoes locations ers) – have branched out and development and sits on numerous are in Sunnyvale, San Lorenzo, opened the 10th store in the fam- committees. Adam Beck serves as two in San Jose, Sacramento, ily’s chain, but this time focusing the company’s CFO. Reno, Milpitas, Fremont, Capitola, on women’s fashion with the small And, says Beck-Gomez, “This is and a Shoemobile Service out of

30 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com Second Annual THE GOLD MEDAL SERVICE AWARDS

FOR THE INDEPENDENT RETAILERS THAT OFFER THE BEST SERVICE IN THE COUNTRY Seeking out and recognizing the independent shoe stores that offer the best customer service in America.

How will stores be rated? shoe store owners based on their own training policies and programs. Franklin Resource Group, one of the top retail merchandising Mystery shopping will take place Spring 2016. companies in the U.S. will “mystery shop” these stores, and rate them on everything from the greeting to the fitting process, to checkout. How can I prepare my store to be mystery shopped and rated? Footwear Insight encourages stores to review the criteria and share Who is eligible? with their sales associates. Copies of the criteria can be obtained at All independently owned shoe stores and regional chains that have a our website. significant shoe business. National chains are not eligible. What happens if my store is selected as one of the 50 Gold Medal How can my store get nominated? Service Winners? Any industry member can nominate a store. Nominations are now You will be notified by e-mail before the results are published in being accepted. Footwear Insight. All stores that are selected will be recognized in the magazine and at an upcoming awards ceremony. They will also What happens after a store is nominated? receive a customized press release they can distribute to media in

footwearinsight.com/goldmedal2016 Nominations are evaluated and stores are then mystery shopped their local market and window decals that will allow them to promote using a 15-step evaluation process developed with top independent the recognition all year long and in their advertising.

Stores with questions about The Gold Medal Awards should contact Mark Sullivan at [email protected] Nominations should be sent to Christina Henderson at [email protected]

SPONSORED BY RETAILSKO

Campbell, CA. The corporation take their shoes off and measure corporate headquarters. “We saw our employs about 85 people. their feet” approach. Every cus- We’ve got a great staff that is dads and the The mobile shoe service is part tomer gets both feet measured very positive and engaged in what of the brand’s large industrial every time. we’re doing,” says Beck-Gomez of blood, sweat business. Not only does Beck’s She says online retailers such as her new passion project. “I’m look- have two dedicated sales people Zappos have forced them to look ing to get back to spending time on and tears they and an Internet portal for the outside the box, staying relevant, the floor, spending full days with put into the work wear category, but they’ll fresh, meaningful and focused on specific individuals, learning our travel to health fairs and lunch the customer service that only consumers, seeing who’s walking business. There time rendezvous at some of their a family-run footwear chain can in the door.” larger industrial partners to outfit provide. Her goal at Sko is to cater to the was always an employees with shoes on the spot. “As time has gone on and my fact that people will leave having attitude of, how While cousin Adam’s father cousin and I have realized what’s found what they were looking Dan retired from the business a going on in retail, we’re not staying for, simple as that. “When some- do we make this number of years ago, his brother, in our box, in our comfort zone. one walks in the store, multiple Blaine, Julia’s dad, remains CEO We’re capitalizing on different things solidify that person as a better, continue at the young age of 61. Julia and pieces of the marketplace, grow- customer,” Beck-Gomez explains. this legacy, Adam are both 35 this year. “He’s ing the business into something “One-on-one attention, picking up giving us the leeway and room to bigger and better than what our on what you think they need, and and one-up let us forge our own way,” Beck- parents passed to us,” Beck-Gomez giving them options, options and Gomez says. says. “We’re taking advantage of options.” our parents.” “It’s part of us cementing our rela- our experience in the industry “Ever since I was a young kid tionship and our future together,” and looking at things a lot differ- there was a sense of pride and COO JULIA BECK-GOMEZ she says of the new store, which she ently, investigating new avenues. knowing I would be a part of some- says is on track to meet or exceed Obviously the Industrial business thing that my family started, I never expectations, reinforced by positive was very traditional.” thought differently about what my customer feedback. Key vendor partners in Beck’s future would hold,” she says. “Adam “It’s a new store, so there’s obvi- and in Sko include Arcopedico, was very much the same. There’s ously word of mouth happening, Earth, Aetrex, Spring Footwear and something to be said about the and foot traffic — volume is not the Rockport Group. opportunity and the legacy we’ve where we want it to be, but it’s Beck’s still owns and operates been given and we want to create going in the right direction, with two licensed New Balance brand something on top of that. We’ve repeat customers already.” stores in addition to its current been in it since day one.”

Sko is a fashion-forward, Now, online retailers are the nine Beck’s Shoes and the new Sko “If there’s one thing that our par- women’s sit-and-fit boutique. Beck’s biggest competition in the store. They were also a Red Wing ents taught us, it’s an exceptionally Bay Area, but the two execs don’t dealer for many years, cementing good work ethic. There was never seem worried. their place in the work wear space an attitude that you didn’t have to “People are getting in their where they clawed and scraped, work hard for what you have,” she cars and driving to the store, so and sometimes boomed, over the says. “We saw our dads and the in that way we’ve already won. last four decades. blood, sweat and tears they put into Sko mixes the old school with the “Succession is really important the business. There was always an new school,” she explains. Beck’s to us right now. We’re putting attitude of, how do we make this model for success has always been things in place and making sure better, continue this legacy, and built on a heightened level of ser- our business sustains from one one-up our parents.” vice and experience. Today, they generation to the next. Also, that She adds, “That’s where the Sko use technology, paying attention titles and responsibilities are concept came from — how can we to foot health and the tools avail- aligned in the right way… that be better, how can we do more for able to them, while still taking the responsibilities match with the the communities, and extend what old-fashioned, “sit them down and titles that we hold,” she says from we had going for us?” O

32 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com

LINESWELIKE EASYBREEZY

Our favorite summer footwear delivers on three things: outdoorsiness, comfort and style. Here are a few new women’s sandal styles that are firing on all three of those cylinders.

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1. Jambu Cape May, MSRP $109. 2. Chaco Sofia, MSRP $100. 3. OluKai Ho’opio Leather, MSRP $75. 4. Birkenstock Arizona Sport Biscay Bay Oiled Leather, MSRP $140. 5. Rider Sandals Colleen Wilcox Smoothie, MSRP $30. 6. Reef Cushion Tide Break (Fall 2016), MSRP $40. 7. Teva Original Universal in Ombre, MSRP $70. 8. Sanuk Yoga Sling 2, MSRP $38. 34 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2016 footwearinsight.com