UrbinoNow The Magazine of Italy’s Le Marche Region 2010–2011

U.S. Journalist Wins Urbino Prize

The Accordion Makers of Castelfidardo

Footloose in Fermo

Foods of Earth & Sea

Exploring Camerano’s Secret Caves

An ieiMedia Publication • www.ieimedia.com Urbino Now 2010-2011 2 have beentheirguests. D’Ambrosio –Mary they’re mastersoftheiruniverse to –andwe privileged felt If Italians, orMarchegiani, aren’t mastersofthe universe, culture ofthepainterRaphael. andthebirthplace aroundlandscapes elegantUrbino, acenterofRenaissance face-to-face thanon Facebook, andenjoyed theblue-green Americans.this custom tooverworked We conversed more that we wondered would berecommending whentheTimes eachthree-hour during pausa andcaffe thinking over prosecco We, too, reveled here, inlife engaginginsomuch productive ;strozzapreti andwatermelon; truffles hats.frogs andstraw products: local that celebrate village festivals salami and and thelanguidbeachtown ofPesaro; and tohundreds of wine-making town ofPergolaCamerano; tothesourcherry We treks andadventures: alsounearth tosecret in caves from grandparents tochildren tograndchildren. like paperandaccordion-making have passed -yes -lovingly TodaroStephanie and industries, how ancientcraft chronicle woodcarver’s shopgrewintoaglobalenterprise; Renae Blum province ofFermo;new on reports how Salinas a Helga Hannah Nusser visitsdesignershoemanufacturers inthe Herein, weintosome features delve ofMarche prosperity: 78.8 years men, for women. 84.7for The Marchegiani alsoenjoy Italy’s expectancy: highestlife that’s region Marche turned intothesecond richest inItaly. an prosperousincreasingly was driving economy – a formula maintained. manufacturing Burgeoning andmid-sized small living inthestreets. Homes, ostentatiousormodest, were nicely inthepiazza.students congregated animatedly No one was 30percent,for Though unemployment young peopleisnearly seemed tobedoingagreat joboftakingcareitsown. discovered aprosperous andhospitableregion that, indeed, in Urbinothesummerof2010tocreate UrbinoNow, they 11U.S.When studentsandtheirprofessors arrived university Boo hoo. global domination game.” butisinalousyposition toplay the is ahaven artisans for the writer, DavidSegal, concluded. “All meansItaly ofwhich thousandsofcompanies here small,”“So remain stubbornly of master-of-the-universe drive. wastefulness of their slow lunches, their inadequate quotient centuries:slights for aboutthe they’re usedtocriticism People have endured countries Anglo inMediterranean such vs. the goodliFe Global domination American writer) writer) “almostAmerican quaint.” business culture seemed(tothevisiting about. disdainfully sprinkled Italian “stagnant,” and “idiosyncratic” were business inthecommunity. Words like and inthefamily keeping hiring ofgrowth,its lack for itspenchant and its insularity for scolded Italy York A recent New article Times

Urbino [email protected] Carloni Carlo ECSTRA Tipolitografia Crotograf Giuliana Sparaventi Sandra T.Ridgely Cavalera,Gabriele Lani, Giovanni Patrizia Bartolucci, Diletta Bruge, CaterinaConte, Margaret D’Ambrosio, ElenaGarbugli Francesca Carducci Helga Salinas, Suarez, Katie Stephanie Todaro Heather Doyle, Hartman, David McLaughlin, Ariana Hannah Nusser, Heather Anderson, Blee, Samantha Blum, Renae Sarah Broce, Scott Burry Johanna Guevara D’Ambrosio Mary Ciofalo Andrew Adver t Prin dyStu Abroad C C I It C Pho Design Direc t Edi Publisher The MagazineThe of It n onsul ont alian Professor ter Rachele Kanigel Executive Director Andrew Ciofalo President andDirector Published byIEIMedia or in C in tor t Cover PhotosBy, andRenaeBlum fromleft:ArianaMcLaughlin,Scott Burry No materialinUrbinoViewmay bereprintedwithoutexpress ograp ribut ing pre t t ising R ants Wi N ters All rightsreserved©2010-2011 IEIMedia UM ors t The LegatoAlbaniadministration hief hy E The Urbino city administration The Urbinocity h sp h ERO permission ofthe publisher. e or p di oordina ecial t resent ERSU Urbino U t NICO aly’s L or – – 2010-2011 hanks t hanks a http://www.ieimedia.com United StatesofAmerica Durham, NC27703 6 ShorelineCove t t e Marche R or ive Now o: egion 3 Urbino Now 2010-2011

By Hannah Nusser p. By Hannah Nusser 31 Jazzing It Up in Fano By David Hartman p. 29 Star at Annual Folkies New-Wave By Scott BurryStudent Fest p. 30 Shame and Tears: When the Azzurri Tears: Shame and Flubbed the Cup By Scott Burry and Helga Salinas p. 36 Top Bike Race to the By Samantha Blee p. 37 Secret Caves Exploring Camerano’s By Samantha Blee p. 38 Views, Butterflies Hiking in Pesaro: and a Splash By Sarahp. 40 Broce p.Are 41Who We Pergola: Big-Time Glories of a Small Pergola: Town Simply Beachy Pesaro: Maniscalco By Giacomo p. 32 Outdoors Weekend Sport

The Festivals of Corpus Flower Domini By Katie Suarez and Blum p.Renae 28 How Walkscore Failed Urbino Failed Walkscore How By David Hartman p. 25 How young Future: Frightening Italians cope with a 30 percent unemployment rate p.By Heather Doyle 26 Celebrating Foods of Earth & SeaCelebrating By Foods Todaro, Stephanie Heather Anderson, Katie p. Suarez 20and Hannah Nusser and School, a Cooking Founding Finding p. a Home 21 p. 22 Fever Fungus Crowing Worth A Restaurant Ciacci: About p. 24 Worker into a Blossoms Cagli Office p. 24Foodie Festivals Living t Ea

urvive S p. 25 p. 16 endors V s e s of Le March

: ial REPORT: risisconomic C By Sarah p. 4 Broce Pinocchio Goes Global By Helga Salinas p. 19 The Accordion Makers of Accordion The Castelfidardo By Stephanie Todaro Papermaking Fibers to Faces: From Blump. By Renae 18in Fabriano Summer: Surf & Sagre p. 37 Spring: TimeCrescia Winter: La Befana Rides In p.11 Autumn: Truffles & Polenta p. 6 & Truffles Autumn: A Day in the Life of Urbino’s Leading in the LifeA Day of Urbino’s Journalist By David Hartman p. 11 ow Traveling Traveling How the Composer of Pesaro Rossini, By Samantha Blee p. 10 Washington Post Columnist Wins Columnist Post Washington By David Award the Urbino Press Hartman and Katie Suarez p. 7 A Healthy Experience p.By Heather Doyle 9 E Globalized DormSalinas By Helga p. 6 World-Class Inside the Factory of a Gunmaker By David Hartman p. 8 Artisanship FERMO Through Trekking Glam Shoe Shopping & Helga Salinas History By Hannah Nusser, 12-15 and Ariana McLaughlin p. Spec Season on adi ti Tr Now Urbino Urbino Now 2010-2011 4 pleasure inmeetingpeople, longtimecustomers &serving AUTUMN... town, many andfollow regional andnational up toany market; must they belicensed ineach First, it’s competitive. Vendors justroll cannot thevendors?for shoppers–butwhat’s for like life experience of languages andgoodsafascinating makesfor vendorsdraws from around theregion. The mix towns have market afixed day,weekly which outdoor old.markets is centuries Most Marche traditionThe Mediterranean of traveling runs throughMarch); Jesi’sTeatroPergolesialsooffersspecial holidayfare. –SaraBroce a crescendo; the winter season at same month www.fanofilmfestival.it. As Christmas approaches,handmade accordions http://www.festivalcastelfidardo.it/ ; theater, theFano Film Festival opera and ballet reach A competition for accordion soloists takes place in October in of Acqualagna’sthreemaintruffle fairsisheldhereinOctoberandNovember. October isthe height of white truffle season , withcelebrating centered in condemned him to death. The hike the Romanemperor oxen after of legend, team Pontius Pilateburied,draggedherebya is to Pilate Lake takes about Early fallisone of theloveliesttimestovisit three hours from the village of Foce. early inthemonth. version pumpsthings up, with bacon and Parmesan cheese. Find these in sagras horror of older Italians reared on College www.festaquilone.it. daily diets of “milk and polenta,” Scolopi Urbino’s poem byGiovanniPascoli,whostudiedat honors afamous September. Theevent “polenta and milk.” One You’ll Marche find kite-making workshops, and a kite race atof Aquilone theFesta music www.cupramusicafestival.it. Andrea, duringFestival Castle St.theCupraMusic the wallsat echo off In CupraMarittima, from the end of August through the first week of September, violin concerts festival, andbytheaccordioncompetitionsinUrbaniaCastelfidardo. abound in September, OctoberandNovember. cheese and mushrooms truffles, featuring Festivals food. local of celebration the is subtle Fall announces itself subtlyin Truffles andPolenta Traveling financialcrisis by vendorstaking survive here are several sagre della sagre polentain There areseveralSeptember,possiblytothe Le Life of theParty Life of eatro delle Ancona’s TeatroMuse kicks off in mid-December (and arche: fog, splashes of yellow, crisp breeze. Whatisn’t Marche: fog,splashesofyellow,crisp Sibillini National Park, where,accordingtolocal Music loverswill be tempted by Cupra’s violin with Urbino’s administrative police. best features, Pellegrini, said Mario an official popular intheregion, isone ofits andvariety Urbino’s Saturdaymarket isone ofthemost officials. city for subjects have inahandbook beencollected be displayed. on these About100articles howsold andfor long, andhow itemsmust regulations. can be rules specify what The

traditions Castelfidardo, acenteroftraditional , inaserenadeofclassical By Sarah Acqualagna , in the first week of Fermo and . The first runsthe Broce Tiberius Apiro

will enjoywill on thebeachthatday. they thelunch for their familiesand fresh fruit the 290-boothmarket. for clothes buy They Le Marche toshopat flood infromover all Tuesday ismarket day inPesaro, and customers pausa Italians leave thetraditional for long lunch, or as 5:30a.m., shopby 1p.m., andclose when Most beginsettinguptheirwares asearly flatter) Pesaro and Fano. seem tobeaproblem inmore (and temperate streets have notbeencleared. This doesnot Urbino’s location, hilltop whenthe especially ground. to make it hard can to climb Snow the customers, when snow even covers the Vendors showorshine, uprain andsodo torentwilling outhisusualspace. having festivals, anestablishedvendor is incase Vendors show up whennearby towns are often example,for notasingleslotis available. a space inthemostpopularmarkets. InUrbino, Though licenses are free,can be hard it to find market, are tomakesure followed. therules In Urbino, apoliceofficerispostedinthe getthey tohave funandbehappy.” is like a party, eat there, they there, drink they is agreat placethewomen for to meetup. It Iworkhave timebecause on Saturdays, butit goand colleagues there thetime. all Idon’t tosee.everyone different for goods Mywife the spotsare filled,” hesaid. “And there are popularmarket,“It’s avery of all because Surviving t . Eachday visitadifferent they market. he Crisis 5 Urbino Now 2010-2011

v Photo By Scott Burry Wednesday & Saturday Wednesday & Saturday Tuesday Saturday

Wednesday Day Town Urbino del Tronto Ascoli Piceno Pesaro tuesday Rimini San Benedetto Fano eekly Markets Weekly Bedettis travel over 50,000 kilometers a year a year 50,000 kilometers over Bedettis travel only off taking northernin centraland Italy, special occasion. and the rare Sundays, is one with his customers contact to face Face Massimo benefits of the job, of the greatest Bedetti said. he alone,” bread man cannot on live “A quipped. just like struggling with recession He’s as his face, but keeps a smile on everyone else, He finds his he wants to keep his customers. to places the best of Rimini one hometown clients since his steady recognize him. work, added, he “It is difficult to make a living,” “because does not subsidize the government me at all.” much to him, That does not seem to matter too time just how more as he explains one though, with customers. he likes interaction much “I mi piace,” said Bedetti. mi piace, “Mi piace, like meeting people who smile a lot and who not grumpy.” to talk and who are love TS ECIALIS SP t Shir my mouth water. my mouth water. While trucks his to Cattolica each day go or a who also owns Ganolini, or Urbania, Pesaro alwaysnot does accompany Cattolica, in deli them. “When than 50 years, for more work you He he said. out,” other people can help you family’s his once was in what working began then inherited it in 1955. 14, business at age selling to meeting a newGranolini compared friend every minutes. five he said business vendors, other Unlike many decline. recession-linked any not suffered had He said he believes this is because he brings and high-quality to his customers, products wonderful has He that. theythat appreciate years. cheese for three that has been aged over in locally, also produced are His products suchand Modena -- and places as Bologna to support want his customers local products. Every day, Massimo and OriettaMassimo and get Bedetti Everyday, their to display and prepare up at 5 a.m., shirts Italian cotton of fine selection for men. These sell each. for as little as 15 to 20 euros The couple also sell imported shirts for about Massimo – the price5 euro of breakfast, pointed out. worked and have in Rimini, The Bedettis live Massimo for decades. vendors as traveling after his family, inherited the business from The in it since he was young. having worked FRIENDS MAKING Filippo Granolini, a congenial man in blue a congenial Filippo Granolini, runs cheese two and jeans and an apron, cheeses and salamis The fresh trucks. sausage made the top of the windows hanging from “But we smile and laugh anyway, because we “Butanyway, and laugh smile we he said. the sky,” the sun and the people, love Roffo weather the finds unpredictability of rain depresses or snow partworst of the job: Money is especially important right business. because crisis: of the economic he said, now, nearly by dropped his sales have 40%. Roffo, who lives in Pesaro, joked that his that his joked Pesaro, in who lives Roffo, that was anywhere to go favorite place that places But he also loves money. made Though he and Rina beautiful scenery. have 6 a.m. only they from work everytravel day, of to spend the rest and so get to 1 p.m., Roffo said he most enjoyed resting. the day the beach or just relaxing to either going which includes his wife, with his family, who also singer a professional Rossana, helps out at the market. Marcello RoffoMarcello and his colleague Rina sell Both started out selling clothing. vintage They now Spainclothes a decade ago. in Ibiza, to within a 100-mile radius of Pesaro, travel All of their suchtowns as Carpenio and Lugo. in Italy. made are goods Vendors talk about enjoying their interactions interactions their talk about enjoying Vendors of selling and their love their with people, Everyone interviewed we been in had wares. than 10 years. the business for more Urbino Now 2010-2011 6 Advertisement town, ofUrbino’s oftheUniversity aspart centerof buildinginthehistoric this prized beofferedacademic visitorswill lodgingin Rather, internationalstudentsandshort-term October –won’t beopentoeveryone. in thesummerof2010, andsettoopenin withgreat –inaugurated fanfareStudente that Urbino’s Casa dello newly-renovated tolive dorms.chance insuch And it’s true the Italianhills. dostudentshave the Rarely of windows amazingviews andterraceoffer wooden floors andbeautifulbathrooms; the Abundant lightpoursin, over polished This iswhyIfeel Icaninviteasmanypeople aspossibletovisitus.Iamsure noonewillbedisappointed.” national andinternationalcuisine toloveourland. and foodproducers,suchasthe macaroniofCampofilone–productsthatinducesomany aficionadosof who throughtheirexcellentproducts areknownthroughouttheworld.Ithinkofexceptional wine “I thinkofthehundredsartisans offootwear,hatsandleathergoods(manythemnow entrepreneurs), and hospitable. people who,withgreatpassion,sacrificeandsuccess,thanks totheirabilities,makeitsobeautiful am convincedthatourprovincehasmuchtooffer,both thosewhowanttovisitandalsolocal out withdeterminationandpassion,”ChamberofCommerce PresidentGrazianoDiBattistasays.“I “The growthandvisibilityofourlandisataskthat,asthe Chamberleadership,weaccept,andcarry companies andworkers,tothebenefitofallsectors,difficultinternationalcrisisnotwithstanding. The FermoChamberofCommerceisinvestinghere,convincedthatitcanhelpincreasethegrowth In short,it’saplacewhere stays tolearnabout,andtaste,thelocalfood,oftenpreparedonspot. and holidayathigh-qualityhospitablebedbreakfasts,resorts,oragriturismi-farmswhereone flavors ofgourmetproducts;wanderstreetsfulloutlets,tobuyshoes,hats,leathergoodsorjewelry; historical andculturalriches,totheSibilliniMountains.It’saplacewhereonecansavortastes Adriatic Sea,throughthegentlegreen-hilledridgestoppedbycastlesandhamlets,withtheirimmense Fermo isMarche’snewestprovince.Establishedin2009,itstretchesfromthestunningbeachesof Savoring theNewProvinceofFermo of theItalianRenaissance, wantsto Urbino, centers one of the most important Fascism fell. after But itwasreturned ittotheuniversity The buildingwasbuiltunderMussolini. ceremony.speaker attheinaugural Urbino, ofitssuccess,” asaninstrument saidone of it the is community to of have the support anyone who wants to study, and most importantly, to intentismakeUrbinoanopencity “Our toshowcase Italianculture abroad.strategy Internationalizing Urbino Internationalizing New Student Dorm Meant for GlobalizationStrategy Meantfor Dorm New Student the qualityoflifeisstillvaluable–andthatpalpableoneverycorner. and academicrelations,” said. Giliberti “We are on focused thedevelopment ofbusiness with China. relations is to establish cultural One priority in China’s provinces. Nanking andShanghai returnedrecently from exchange acultural of UrbinoProf. GiuseppeGiliberti, who strategy,internationalization saidUniversity States. in the city’s play will aThe part dorm andtheUnited countries Mediterranean in particular: China, theBalkans, fellow involves regions deepeningtieswithfour itsglobalcontribution.reassert Itsstrategy traditions By H elga Salinas v

7 Urbino Now 2010-2011

Photo By Ariana McLaughlin v z international role of journalism. Stressing that of journalism. international role the world operatejournalistsby around must “I think it’s he said: set of ethics, a common a mistake for country-by- down us to be tied country of journalism. versions different in I’ve“Some the most useful conversations of I’ve journalists; been with foreign have had my colleagues to know a point of getting made Washington].” outside of my bubble [in He said he maintains a dialogue with journalists criticism valuable from and receives abroad, “I want them to stand with me and say, them. that wrong.’” got ‘David you of concern for the future He expressed While the Internet provides journalism. abilityan unprecedented for people to “a he sees it as generating their opinion, voice democracy of information to a fault.” of information available onDespite the breadth for tend to look readers he said, the Internet, “The opinions. their informationreinforces that Internet institution should be this powerful it speaks to and helps create Instead of unity. niches rather than mass.” “not simply a is Award Press UrbinoThe secretary press Cavalera, event,” promotional “but to a way said, to the mayor, make people understand what Italy is like for people who before.” never here were Receiving this award certainly opened Ignatius’ to Leeyes Marche. “Le is lovable Marche because it is off the the beaten path,” columnist said, noting that he had a lot of really “seen nice people and eaten a lot of good food.” “The that [Urbino] is fact a means it has its little removed place.” its own independence, own Suare atie K and

Hartman

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ns itio trad By D By

Columnist David Ignatius Wins David Ignatius Columnist 2010 Urbino Press Award Print Rules Print Ignatius agreed with CorbucciIgnatius agreed about the Ignatius, also a Post associate editor, is the associate editor, also a Post Ignatius, editor of the Internationalformer executive Wall Street for The and worked , Tribune Herald government written about U.S. He’s Journal. also written He’s and the Middle East. affairs, “A “The King,” Sun “BodyLies,” of novels: six Fear,” “The Bank of “SIRO,” Firing Offense,” of Innocence.” “Age and “We want to make bridges and pull down walls, want to make bridges and pull walls, down “We to do this,” award like the Urbino Press and we’d Corbucci. Franco said Mayor “This is witnessing the friendship award of attaché press Thiede, Paula peoples,” our two said during to Italy, Ambassador for the U.S. “This of the representative is the ceremony. Italy between the U.S.” and relationship The dramatic Sala del Trono, with soaring Trono, The dramatic Sala del architecture, Renaissance ceilings and frescoed and social signaled an important diplomatic, the importancedid as speakers. the of event, Secretary Press Corbucci, Franco Urbino Mayor Urbino and Giovanni Lani, Gabriele Cavalera, Lani participated.. Carlino, del editor of Il Resto with designers Piero and up the award dreamed and is its president. Guidi, Giacomo As the costumed parade wound through the through As the costumed parade wound fulla orchestra piazzaPalace, the into and and the formally-attired in the courtyard, played dignitaries and other of businesspeople, crowd inside for its way the ceremony. made residents The royal welcome was a dividend of beingwelcome royal The of the Urbinonamed the 2010 recipient American to is given The award Award. Press and their commitment “through journalists who conscientiously inform millions of daily work, in its fifth is The award organizers say. people,” Friedman, Thomas include past winners year; Weisskopf. Diane Rehm and Michael A precession of drummers, cavaliers and flag of drummers, A precession in full Renaissance garbbearers led David columnist Post Washington renowned Ignatius, As he Ducal Palace. into Urbino’s and novelist, he was Eve, walked arm in arm with his wife, police. national Italy’s the carabinieri, saluted by Urbino Now 2010-2011 8 Micheli. “We good mechanical have avery said Benelli’s director of marketing, Silvia qualified workforce and roomfor afactory,” searched the regionfor aplace witha “They company. of theirmotorcycle offshoot Pesaro, thecompany founded in1968, as an brothers,The Benelli whocome from nearby United Kingdom, andGermany. Egypt forces andby of Australia, themilitaries the SWAT units, by UnitedNations peacekeeping The weapon, theM4, isalsoused by U.S. had specified,the Marines Vignaroli said. more accurateandlessprone tofailure, than fired more rounds before servicing, and were benchmarks; them. itsurpassed The guns shotguns. didn’t Benelli justmeettheMarines’ awarded acontract Benelli tosupply Corps finest inthe world. In1996, the U.S. Marines shotgunsareBenelli considered some ofthe sleep oreat.” engineer. And: “the robot doesn’t needto cheaper, saidMarco Vignaroli, Benelli’s chief a machineinstead ofapersonand issafer andplacescrabapple itinabasket. Using of a up a shotgun bolt the size picks arm floor,On thefactory high asix-foot robotic intheinternationalfirearm community.acclaim has brought theUrbino-basedcompany much that building attemptstocapturetheingenuity Part showroom, museum, part themodern thewall. ofgunsdecorate anddozens carcass culture. lion Astuffed guards thelobby. Abear immersedingunandhunting immediately and you’re firearmEnter theBenelli factory Photo ByScottBurry Inside the factory of a world-class arms maker arms aworld-class of Inside thefactory theShotgun Renaissance of By D idea, fit.” soitwasanatural here,school wasinfavor ofthe andthecity that year.” Today thecompany roughly sells soldone shotgun to the only United States Presidentsaid Benelli Moretti. Luigi “We have aninvoice“I from 1987inmyoffice,” ofBeretta HoldingSpA). is now asubsidiary Remington, establishedthen(Benelli very all had tocompete withBeretta, Browning and itentered themarket,When thecompany prestigious firearm manufacturer isquitenew. craftsmanship. ButBenelli’s ascendance asa wouldwatchmaker envy themeticulous of production,the efficiency Swiss anda at Ford marvel Henry would certainly in testing, tohave any flaw. Fewer gunsare than1in2,000Benelli found, and couldn’t live uptothesamestandards. China have plant, beentestedattheBenelli saidfirearms manufacturedVignaroli in failures.mechanical to whenfired. Thetestismeanttoexpose any be subjected ever greater pressure than they’ll gun produced. are Guns fired at30percent anindependentcontractorfor totestevery into ourguns,” sheadded. There’s afacility architecture this anddesign andtranslate designers tobe “exposed tothebeautifulart, An Urbinobaseallowsengineersand anddesign,style said. Micheli andinnovation inmind,technology butalso productsBenelli aren’t with developed only Craf avid tsmanshi Hartman p and St yle be packagedand shippedtocustomers. sights. ifthegunspassmuster they can Only a barrel, whilehisneighborstares down the tomeasureuses calipers the dimensions of examinesthe parts.carefully Another worker hisstrength,shotgun 10timeswithall then each component. Oneworker pumps a floor,On thefactory employees are inspecting atitscraftsmanship. weapon; marvel only Ican Holding it, function of the I forget the brutal RenaissancepainterRaphael.Urbino-born Lord for the isnamed great Raffaello The the highestsophistication.” da Leonardo Vinci, whosaid, “simplicity is receiver andbutt-stock. It’s namedfor consists ofjustthree components: abarrel, the Vinci, beassembledinseconds, can and reflects itspersonality.newest shotgun, The prefersBenelli togive eachfirearm anamethat namedwithaletterandnumeral,simply but challenges, too. prefer gunstobe Americans The U.S. market haspresented some officials said, thefastestshotgunin world. in lessthanasecond, makingit, company automatic shotguncouldfire five rounds Civolani’s system, uniquefiring Benelli’s first first firearms it produced.very Bruno Using be traced to one of innovation can the andinnovation.on technology The tradition The company creditsfocus itssuccessto shotgun salesintheUnitedStates. Recently, Remington in surpassed Benelli 200,000 gunsperyear, in79countries. It aly Mee traditions ts America v 9 Urbino Now 2010-2011

Photo By Scott Burry continued 43 on page catch me. I tried to remember everything triedI remember to catchme. The on Week” “Shark learned during had I Discovery Channel about self-defense from around. none were while praying there sharks, my toe wrapped around my towel On shore, and clenched. collared white a in attendance beach tanned A disinfectantshirt some and new brought Lifting sunglasses, his bright yellow bandages. voice, and said in a regretful a face he made need a stitch.” you “Yes, Damn. at the I limped up to a woman the hospital, At and elevated who sat me down desk, reception my foot for further inspection. her shaking whispered, she tsk” “Ohhh...tsk “tsk but I knew Italian, speak don’t I head. term for news. is the universal bad tsk” She with walked behind the desk and returned my removed and gauze, peroxide a bottle of makeshift my wound. and re-dressed splint an insurance Then she asked if I had card. I said, at home,” not with me...it’s “No, to bleed going I’m Great, to tears. halfway countryto death in a foreign because I didn’t bring my stupid card. She disappeared said the nurse. “Ahh...okay,”

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ns itio trad By Heather By I saw myself in a scene from Jaws. I was Jaws. I saw myself in a scene from would shark but the trying away, to swim I frantically swam to shore, in one-legged in one-legged I frantically swam to shore, damage. freestyle more doing any to avoid “Oh my God...Ohhhhh my God, I have to I have my God, my God...Ohhhhh “Oh Right now.” Now. swim back. I lifted my foot into my hand to see if it was my toe. blood spurted red Ruby from serious. I swam past the white buoys, but as I tried to I swam past the white buoys, and I slipped, hoist myself the rocks, up on Inspecting my splashed back into the water. my right line slicing down I saw a dark foot, a sign of a pang, I waited for a sting, big toe. But I felt nothing. a major injury. My friends the bright and I had idea of swimming to the rocks a few feet hundred furthestthe was It ever had I shore. the from mother’s my under since ocean, the into swum supervision I was never permitted past to go But what could happen? How my elbows. calm as an blue water, could this sapphire possibly harm me? Italian Sunday lunch hour, rocks, the on standing Otherwere people admiringfishing and the view. The ocean at the beach in Pesaro was so was Pesaro The ocean at the beach in The jumping in. resist that I couldn’t inviting I could see my water was calm and warm. feet kicking up clouds to of sand as I waded more was It deep. waist was water the where York, in New than the water at home relaxing rip powerful tides pullwhere unsuspecting swim back. swimmers out so far they can’t away, but the shark would catch me. would but the shark catch away, I sawI myselffrom scene a in tryingwas I swim Jaws. to “Don’t Swim Past the Buoys” Swim Past “Don’t Urbino Now 2010-2011 10 rossinioperafestival.it boxoffice@ e-mail: 0721.3800220 Fax: 24, I-61121 Pesaro. Tickets: Biglietteria del Festival Via Rossini http://www.rossinioperafestival.it/ Schedule: August. place each weeks takes three for Festival Opera Rossini The Tel: 0721.3800294/

Photo By Scott Burry into one ofPesaro’s biggest events, and avaluableonethecity. for popular among theJapanese. The Rossini Festival hasdeveloped onebook year tickets inadvance,” said. Oliva festival isespecially The are more probably foreigners thanItalians,“There usually andthey to play Rossinipieces, andtoshow offtheir own compositions. popular. festival gives ofthe This portion young chance musicians a speeches, andotherevents.” “YoungThe Festival” isespecially representative Giulio Oliva. there“But are alsoconcerts, exhibitions, events are mostpopular thestage shows,”“The said Pesaro cultural of Thetis and Peleus.” forgotten operas, DeathofDido” as such “The “The and Wedding Rossinititles,addition toclassic the program alsorevives many - wasestablishedin1980by Pesaro’s municipal government. In toRossini devoted entirely internationalevent -the only festival composer’s great works, Festival. theRossiniOpera during The Pesaro ofthe Rossiniwithlive alsocelebrates performances music. and books ofhandwritten rare artifacts, Rossinipracticedon asachild, asthepianoforte such Seville.” of Barber of performance “The Inthehouse can find you of Rossini’s time, Adelina Patti including a hercostumefor wearing 19th century, singers some ofthe mostacclaimed portray theprints Donated by Parisian attheendof Alphonse collector Hubert given tothePesaroa collectionofover 100prints town council. In CasaRossini, ofthecomposer’s thestory you learn life, can via FestivalRossini Opera eachAugust. the housewhere thecomposer wasborn. There’s two-week alsoa son, as such Teatro Rossini(restored in2002)andCasaRossini, Pesaro sitestocommemorate itsnative historical hasbuiltseveral between 1810and1829, songs are usedinpopculture. certain still Though Rossini, here born in1792, wrote pieces mostofhisnoteworthy familiarmovies.several Overture.”Seville” of Barber “The hasalso worked itsway into Chances are, you’re thinkingofRossini’sTell (William) “Guillaume head? Awordless, familiarcomposition thatyou can’t quitename? sceneinafamiliarmovie.hectic chase melodyfloatsinto your What Ranger,”Lone Imagine your episodeof favorite “The a orperhaps through therooms ofhischildhood, here isaplace toconnect. ofone ofhisfamousoperas, aperformance catch towalk orsimply beach town ofPesaro, where hewasborn. you’d Whether liketo Gioachino Rossini’s accessible isstill in thebusyAdriatic legacy ofmostcomposers are availableinoldtexts, thestories only While Rossini iscelebrated inhishometown The Composer of Pesaro of traditions By Samantha Blee v 11 Urbino Now 2010-2011 Heather Doyle Falling 40 . Falling days Concurrent with the with Concurrent continued 43 on page are among the best- the among are Tronto Photo by Solidea Rosati Vitali He begins each day by mapping out the three mapping out the three by He begins each day allotted for the Urbino section. he’s pages He plucks articlesonline news off of an wire, retake to reportersthem the asks and contacts or do follow-upphotographs reporting. Our is frequently interrupted, conversation to clarify another reporter stops by as yet Lani rings. phone or the information, some seems to be several at once: sometimes places the at but he’llPesaro, in section his assemble stories his own on in same time be working a produced also He’s miles away. 20 Urbino, co- has and documentaryminers, coal about new student another about Urbino’s produced 6).dormitory story on p. (see related deal of Lani a great said that he is given due when designing his section, autonomy and (away) far so “It’s isolation. Urbino’s to to reason much not there’s that different he said. with others,” discuss my section bands and street artists, and on the final night final the on and artists, street and bands

an Benedetto del , and San , in, il resto Camerino hen come Carnevale revelries, before Carnevale come Marche Christmas season. Then La Befana parades down the streets of Urbania, where she’s cheered Marche is most Fano, Pesaro and Appechio appreciated in urs o Carnevale in on December 9 and 10, to mark the legend that angels carried her rustic cottage there cottage rustic her carried angels that legend the mark to 10, and 9 December on Lorreto Venice, iller H Killer is one of the oldest newspapers is one in Italy; in in 2010 it celebrated its 125th year cleverness business in Perhaps business. the clever derives from sense of humor that ago, years Many the paper its name: gave men buying cigars at the tabacchi would coin called with a low-value pay a carlino. – change the receiving of Instead to be invited would Italian – the customer take a newspaper instead. Despite living in a society that puts a great the long Lani works time, leisure on emphasis hours journalists everywhere notorious for are frequently he is until in the office keeping; including weekends. on nine in the evening, Residents frequently drop in with news tips, or in with newsResidents frequently drop tips, this story that the paper cover requests or that. newspaper of a larger group Part the Pesaro in Bologna, headquartered this around in the region circulates edition Carlino del Il Resto city. 90,000-resident , hundreds of villagers dress up for a Christmas pageant, and to play their parts in a human crèche, known crèche, human a in parts their play to and pageant, Christmas a for up dress villagers of hundreds , Hartman , key moments are celebrated without lights. There are ice sculptures, Santa Claus Santa sculptures, ice are There lights. without celebrated are moments key , Candelara efana parade through streetsthe quintessential Befana parade through of Urbania is to experience , Urbania’s is one of the biggest celebrations in all of Italy, running from Jan 2nd through Jan 6th. avid

known. In known. Epiphany famous revelries in have heard of the you’ll Though carolers singing in the streets. http://www.candelara.com/english.php of town cult Mary Virgin the in lit are bonfires Enormous bad. the for blow) the soften to chocolates, of form the in (sometimes coal and children, good the for sweets bears She way. the all before Easter, it’s a last hurrah before the solemn days of Lent. Masked people –grotesque, funny, frightening--fill the streets.- from Nazareth on Dec. 10, 1292. The bonfires are lit in the open country, and on the beaches, to help guide the angels on their way. from Nazareth on Dec. 10, 1292. The bonfires are lit in the open country, and and can’t the witch Santa lives in the North Pole get to all the children, Since Claus 40 solemn days of Lent fall upon quiet snow-dusted mountain villages, and the wind sweeps up the Adriatic coast. Curl up with a thick, creamy cup of hot of cup creamy thick, a with up Curl coast. Adriatic the up sweeps wind the and villages, mountain snow-dusted quiet upon fall Lent of days solemn 40 chocolate, or a warm apple tart. and handicrafts where mercatini, or markets, Christmas village lively the for Look http://www.presepedigenga.it/ 4 Near the Frasassi Caves, in the village of Genga Jan. to 26 Dec. from presepe, a as Macerata, other typical products are sold. Urbino,Fano, Jesi, Ostra Senigallia, Vetere, La Befana Rides In To see La

By D By WINTER... If the newsroom feels typical, its location is feels If the newsroom typical, with a glass level, at street It’s anything but. retail-style door that constantly opens front secretary no security or There’s shuts. and you door, enter the front you once guard; with reporters and editors. to face face are On the desk of Giovanni Lani, editor of On the desk of Giovanni Lani, York is a New Urbino section, the paper’s and it, license plate with his name on souvenir workspace Lani’s Kennedy. F. John of bust a Barack of President with pictures plastered is W. Obama George and former President Italian shaking hands with shown Bush, who Lani, Minister SilvioPrime Berlusconi. designer wears in a rush, seems to be forever shirt dress and a button-down eyeglasses not). sometimes tucked(sometimes in, The newsroom of the Pesaro office of IlPesaro of the The newsroom Carlino is just like those old-school del Resto clacking are People TV. see on you newsrooms and ringing, are phones keyboards, on away storyevery layouts, desk is full of documents, items. and personal books phone How Giovanni How Lani covers the news Urbino Coverage Urbino The Editor Who Drives Drives Who The Editor ns itio trad Urbino Now 2010-2011 12 Footloose inFermo Where have all the artisans alltheartisans have Where expect to find old, Italian men slowly stitchingmen slowly to- gether pieces of leather? gether piecesof gone? Was Inaïve to Photos ByArianaMcLaughlin Fermo, behind Iwitnessed the craftsmanship At Fabiani the Giovanni site in manufacturing the sameway. Marche, Iwould look never atapairofshoes Little didIknow that, mytimein after three –toprove Ihad. apairofshoes– ortwo or back and tobring fashionable, put-together women intheworld, lessonsI setouttolearn from themost style. women were the beautiful men and hadeven Europe. Iimaginedafarawayplace where the in country themostcharming and arguably oftheworld,capitals ashoe lover’s haven chance tovisit This wasmyoneofthefashion two words jumpedtomind: shoeshopping. Ifirst considered inItaly, aninternship When and untouchable. to me, wasmysterious fashion world sacred bySurrounded andcombines, cornfields the at Applebee’s. your bestjeansand Target flip-flopstodinner behind a tractor. Fashion mean wearing can – ifyou40-minute drive don’t get stuck restaurant isa shopping centerorfancy population 2,000, thenearest theater, movie In myhometown of Woodville, Ohio, shoes andbagsIsawon thoseglossypages. expensive enoughtoown thefabulously lucky lustful eyes, fantasizingthatone day Imightbe For years Iread Vogue andGlamourwith shoe shopping. jumped towords mind: internship inItaly, two an Ifirstconsidered When No By Hannah t So Glam Nusser 13 Urbino Now 2010-2011

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tle Ou e (Dino Bigioni Uomo) Montegranaro 310, v. Veregrense 0734-89.12.59 [email protected] Well-made men’s shoes: rubber soled, perforated uppers, English wingtips, boots. Women will find classic models, leather tennis shoes, ankle boots. All Prada goods, including jackets, bags and All Prada goods, including jackets, bags shoes, offered at a 40 percent discount; sales in January and February. goods at 40 percent off. ROBERTO CAVALLI Via dell´Industria (Zona Industriale), Gottazzolina 0734 - 63.20.64 Monday from 3.30 to 7:30 p.m.; Tuesday though Saturday from 9.30 to 12.30 p.m., and 3:30 to 7:30 p.m. CALZATURIFICIO R.D.B. ndustria, 50, Fermo Via dell’Industria, 50, Fermo t PRADA outle 97, Montegranaro Via Alpi (Zona Industriale), 0734 - 897.82.72 Monday through Friday, 9.00 a.m.-12.30 p.m. and 3 p.m. -7.30 p.m., Saturday open continuously, 10.00 a.m. -7.30 p.m. Casette d´Ete, 134 Garibaldi, Corso Sant´Elpidio a Mare 0734 - 87.16.71 Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. – 7:30 p.m., open continuously. Also sells Fiorucci shoes, Flex Junior, and Disney Babies. r ne ig e s D Sho GIOVANNI FABIANI TOD´S shoe outlet rmo und Fe aro

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Modern Craf Modern “We are not eating each other; it’s families helping families. That’s the life the shoe the of That’s families. helping families it’s other; each eating not are “We Sardini said. industry,” The Italian shoe industry is not just about footwear – it’s about preserving a tradition, a The Italian shoe industry about preserving is not just about – it’s footwear a tradition, a family name. culture, This factory is just one of hundreds of small yet established family established factoryyet This this in small businesses of shoe hundreds of one just is and that theyone another in help friends they The families say are rather than foes, area. AmericanThe idea of money-hungryworld has no place domination times of hardship. is in assuring quality best interest that always prevails. the Italians’ here; “They pass secrets from father to son. There’s no other part no other you world find the can of where There’s “They son. to father from secrets pass Gismondi. Gastone Mayor said Montegranaro this,” Dino Bigioni manufactures 700 pairs of shoes a day. All employees come from shoemaking shoemaking from come All employees 700 pairs of shoes a day. manufactures Dino Bigioni While generation the younger educated in the craft. families that have their children family is the preferred tradition trade schools to learn attends area trade and design, training method. With over 54 components needed for every pair of women’s shoes, I realized that shoes, With needed for every 54 components over pair of women’s shoemaking can be laborious. again intently focused using their expertise on to I see the workers, Looking closely, more carrying out their craft. Each artisan is trained to specialize in one task. We see a middle-agedsee swiftly man stretching We Each artisantrained is to specializetask. one in man delicately Another brushes thespecial glue onto every the toe of leather taut over shoe. allowing it to dry completely heating it up again and before of the shoe structure, bottom it tight. lining it up exactly and using a special machine to press applying hand, the sole by each stiletto heel in just the right another man places spot the end of the assemblyAt line, Then for and sending it on the finishing touches. securing machine, before a press it with an example of the and It’s care to be shipped. ready buffed and boxed, polished, the shoes are handcrafting for durability Italian shoes their reputation that give and quality. with and machines equipped leather-cutters automatic with This factory is modern, Where all the artisans have gone? software intricate to copy patterns to the material. on Italian men slowly stitching pieces of leather? together to expect to find old, I naïve Was the heels, and came to understand that the production of women’s shoes is a tedious, time- shoes is a tedious, of women’s and came to understand that the production the heels, stitching fitting the body of and After of leather cutting, the initial stages craft. consuming the next steps vary to the shoe style. according the shoe, I smell stirs: my excitement of Montegranaro, Arriving town in the nearby at Dino Bigioni lessen but that doesn’t shoe factory, a men’s It’s unmistakable scent of leather. the pungent, pride with great and hospitality spoke as Giuseppe Sardini, The manager, my enthusiasm. stack stack of upon Beyond begins. shoe production where he led me into the noisy area the elaborate assembly bound for shoes Russia that will envelope and Germany, shoeboxes, begins. process SP Urbino Now 2010-2011 14 Le Marche region inthe1850s. only Le old tradition, begantotakeoffin theindustry a year. Althoughshoemakingisacenturies- 35,000 workers, andgenerates 1.5 billioneuro the Montegranaro area, employs theindustry China. over 4,000manufacturers in With of itsshoestoRussia, Germany, Belgiumand The 75percent exports shoedistrict Fermano go back,” hesaid. against theeuro. thinkit’stimeto “I theright market to recover gainsstrength asthedollar assured me, however, heexpectstheU.S. themore. tovisitall opportunity Sardini this once-in-a-lifetime it made me cherish ofSept.since theterroristattacks 11--yet have beenalmostnon-existent to America thatshoeexports It wasdisappointingtolearn components are produced locally. comes from Tuscany andthe Veneto), shoe all theexception oftheleather(which With heels; men’s thesolesfor othersonly loafers. stiletto may makeonly shoe –one family ofthe inone part specializes Each family worn-in feel ofthe realworn-in feel thing?` duplicate. mimicthatsoft, And whocan -- therich, pungent scentisimpossibleto indoubt,When Ilearned, theleather smell yetexquisite detail.and methodical subtly stitches, laces, durable patterns intricate attention todetail. hand-sewn for Look by shoemakersby fraudulent paying avoid beingdupedvirgins likemecan Di Battistashared thistip: high-fashion season. every Dino Bigioni designerscreatestyles 600new way behind.” always the time.all People who are copying us are said. models ismakingnew strategy “Our “We responded by doing it better,” Di Battista Commerce. Battista, president oftheFermo Chamberof to combat thefakers, Di saidGraziano swing, working isconstantly buttheindustry shoemakers’‘Italian are outthere infull I had towonder aboutknockoffs. Fraudulent The “Made inItaly” that labelissoprized price, andIswipemycardwithoutcringing. pumps. areThey lessthanhalftheretail FabianiGiovanni lacy, sky-high platform time cashier, couldafford apairofblack heels were aI,steal that even such a part- or are imposters. Here, incredible designer are they aseasonbecause ortwo behind, discounts on designergoods, it’s likely larger yield typically in othercountries Next theoutlets. came outlets While pp Sho - Montegranaro Mayor Gastone Gismondi. “They pass secrets from father father from to son. pass secrets “They There’s world the of noother part where you findthis.”where can ing! v

Photo by Ariana McLaughlin 15 Urbino Now 2010-2011 You might be walking walking be might You Roman amphitheatres were were amphitheatres Roman ila): uila): q A o): mo): Fer di Museo e edrale

ano): omano): v tt a ro R ro t ro dell’ ro t T OR The chill air surprised us. The lights were flicked on, and a flicked were The lights The chill air surprised us. re (Teare o ( C mo Fer of t er (Teaer This beautiful hamlet overlooks hills and sea, in one encompassing one encompassing in This beautiful hamlet overlooks hills and sea, um erns: t hea t hi Salinas EP L R IA an cist oman EC elga rch and Muse and urch an Amp oman SP me: Pal di Torre Ch agle Thea The Eagle By H By The R R Bronze doors greet you as you enter. The bas-relief recounts the 1176 fire that destroyed the city that destroyed recounts the 1176 fire The bas-relief enter. as you you Bronze doors greet of In tradition symbolized the flames of the by Phoenix. and also the renovation, and church, The crypt 5th century. the artwork showcases glass floor a from church excavatingburied history, Next the 4th century. from sarcophagus and an unknown ceilings and walls, has painted below from a piece with a cross and cardinals, that exhibits artifacts of Fermo’s museum is the door said to have gold, also a chasuble (a liturgical with garment) threaded There’s original crucifix. Beckett. Thomas to St. belonged to experience walking is the best way this place. there, but once Fermo, drive from must You view. by teased by an open kitchen, I walk balconies. mud-colored the hang Brightover pink flowers Each table is positioned opened for dinner. not yet have as the restaurants the delicious smell, A woman I keep walking. of the view the countrysideso as to take advantage over to the coast. alleyways down I peek A family snack. enjoys the floor. sweeping is apron and housedress in a of blue water bleeding to the view, by is enveloped one the end, At to homes. that probably lead one that far so stretching hills above, green into fades sand The tricklethat umbrellas coast. the up might believe this is what the whole world like. looks built at the crossroads of towns, but this one, in the hamlet of Falerone, is now surrounded by by surrounded is now of Falerone, the hamlet in one, this but of towns, the crossroads built at only and now stage the marblemagnificent a It was once; theater and centuries-oldtrees. grasses, that my I was sure of the time. and population, existence signifies the prosperity, Its seats remain. once was – but the stone not fill could imagination the empty the amphitheatre where of spaces saw then. the Romans is the stone see today you Don’t miss these classic sites miss these classic sites Don’t In Step with History stone tunnel opened in front of us. These Roman cisterns were built as emergency water reservoirs, built as emergencyreservoirs, water were cisternsThese Roman of us. tunnel opened in front stone in Rediscovered and forgotten. Eventually filled with garbage, were they in the first century A.D. can still see ancient detritus strewn around: You cleaned they were up and opened to visitors. 1960, family a yellow crest. pieces of ancient buildings, through a Phantom of the Opera set. You’d never, in any case, expect to find such a glamorous such expect to find a glamorous case, any in never, You’d a Phantom of the Operathrough set. floors of five Your rise through eyes The on the walls. design chandeliers highlight the theater here. the Roman eagle, A powerful curtains each of the 25 furnished with red and chairs. theater boxes, offering as many theater, this is still an active Opened in 1792, the hall. guards imperial symbol, and serving as a setting for local students recitals. season, May as 10 operas each October through Urbino Now 2010-2011 16 Tracking mygrandfather’s down legacy Castelfidardo The Accordion Makers of ST the tradition thathehelpedshape. through him.Italy In the summer of 2010, deeper into his I decided craft,to delve and to revisit passed away, mygrandfather After on October24, 2008, Ibegantothinkagain aboutmytiesto behind Italy’s accordion industry, tobetterunderstandmy Italian heritage. andcame our It wasduring hours”“work abouttheculture, thatIlearned tradition andartisan history and testtheparts. withgraceandease. thesecomplex instruments constructing Iwould helphimfit Sometimes and For many years, Istudiedmygrandfather, Carocci, Umberto builteachaccordion ashedelicately “Bravo,” would mygrandfather exclaim, theaccordion asthesound escaped we’d built. harmonic melodieshismusic box couldplay. interest, ashe’d perfectly. fiteachpart moved asthefinalscrews intoplace did Only wehearthe would hoursmanipulatingwires,grandfather sit for rods, andbuttons. I’d withintense watch From atablecovered inhis tinycondo, by Chicago ared tablecloth andwhite-checkered my or for clients around theU.S. clients orghenetti for Midwest. Hewasaone-man company, painstakingly y AND P hotos By Stephanie T odaro the aftermath of Worldthe aftermath War II. In1969, he the accordion businessArmoni in1946, in My grandfather, inCastelfiardo, born founded Castelfidardo in1864. concertina, in and orghenetti industry lead totheestablishment oftheaccordion, builthisown version,Soprani would which allowed thismusic box towork, young Paolo night. Interested that inthemechanisms as heandhishostsrelaxed by thefire one introduced a bellowed box-like instrument home in Castelfidardo,at the Soprani and wholodged of an Austriantale tells pilgrim change with each generation. The original tradition an oral thatseemstofollows ofthemakingfirst accordion The story A Tri p t o CAST ELFIDARDO 17 Urbino Now 2010-2011 v y Hand By p hi ti sans Ar ADE M wer Fe In their factory on the outskirts of Castelfidardo, In their factory the outskirts on of Castelfidardo, year, each built are accordions 1,200 of average an Each accordion 20 artisans. of about a group by averagean and parts, 15,000 than has more help build each complexof 14 pairs of hands Each instrument takes about three instrument. to build. months Only major Italian accordion two Piginicompanies— and Soprani/ Much the of Scandalli—left are here. shifted has been mass production to China, for to the localmaking it harder producers accordion A professional-grade compete. The sells than $20,000 today. for more artisanintensive construction and the contributing to its of vendors multitude driven up costs. have creation go businesses “More than a 100 different of a single accordion,” into the production “ All [of these businesses] explained. Fabi thus specialists, and require locallyare based, expensive.” making it more through passed down the trade was In the past, typically grandfather to son from the family, accordion- years, But in recent to grandson. family connection, making has lost its strong chose into generations to go as younger machinery and replaces fields, different human handwork. the craft is still a staple of this Le Marche Yet a it will play And forever hill region. town in my familyrole heritage. brought his craft to America, by purchasing purchasing by crafthis brought America, to in Chicago. Star Concertina, distributedAs he his concertinas my grandfather’s the Midwest, throughout Star also became soon known. well work absorbed the Imperial brand of electronic he In 1986, and organs/pianos. accordions other No and retired. sold his company and the family trade, up the took member eventuallycompany folded. story is similar that of My grandfather’s As manufacturers. Italian accordion many the industry in the late began to boom only appeared, manufacturers many 1950s, of five within an average to shut down and competition due to increasing years, shrinking demand. said “The pre-Beatles,” were years boom at the operations manager Fabo, Fausto when Soprani/Scandalli in Castelfidardo, “The I visited in the summer of 2010. was not typicalaccordion to rock and roll, outside of that musical circle for and stayed the most part.” Lennon while John used an accordion Still, only later, songs; of his most composing the he replace would duringrecording, drums and bass. melody with the guitar, a branch family of my the continues Today, Soprani in Castelfidardo line of accordions with the Scandalli-- along brand -- and maintains the artisan craft and of accordion orghenetti construction. Urbino Now 2010-2011 18 Papermaking in Fabriano From FiberstoFaces: paper, intoit, have will adesignsewn theframe form. thepaperwill intowhich above the vat, awire outofthedun-colored frame water. lifting Ifone iscreating watermarked intoafiner and finerpisto.cloth The ground-up fiber goesintoavatofwater. Alavorente stands years tomaster. First, are rags ofhammermills, placed inaseries noisycontraptions thatpoundthe follow lookLuigi andhisstudents simple,The traditional steps buttakeapprentices sixtoseven itsinnovationsinpapermaking. for known worldwide a city other attheMuseumofPaper and Watermarks (theMuseodella Carta eFiligranisti)inFabriano, lavorente,watermarked paperusing themethodsof13thcentury orlaborers. It’s aday likeany Downstairs, studentscreate andseveral thissame Luigi Micella masterpapermaker visitorswatch andpestle.used tostrenuous pulpingwithmortar gelatin. Andbuiltthefirst they hydraulic topulppaper, hammermills theretofore a relief toartists Fabriano alsocreated paper, thefirstwaterproof artists ananimal andapplying by developing from imitators. screen tothepaper. here in the 1200s, thetechnique developed Artisans toprotect theirpaper Fabriano is the home ofthewatermark, hiddendesigncreated anelaborate by pressing aspecial designs on banknotesandofficialdocuments. areThey watermarks, some oldandothersnew, the work ofItalianfiligranisti whocreate invisible Botticelli’s Venus. boxes withwarm fill yellow light, hiddenimagesrevealing inpaper:VirginMary, the Mussolini, more several seconds,After lightsintheceilingsnapon andtheroom jumpsto life. The ghostly light,” shemutters. looking whiteboxes arrangedon thewalls, indisplay cases. “We can’t without doanything Claudia Crocetti standsinadarkened room, stampingherfeet. Around her are empty- By R enae Blum

Photo By Renae Blum Artisanship 19 Urbino Now 2010-2011 v i Bartolucc Via Vittorio Veneto, 23 Urbino, Italy Tel: 0722-327476 www.bartolucci.com He slowly built up a work force. His figures force. He slowly built up a work since and have customers, to impress continue Italy throughout and 80 stores some spurred as in Russia as well and elsewhere in Europe, in to open has yet a store However, Australia. the United States. factory from The current road the is down into a has grown and the old workshop, operation. 90-employee usedmachines with “Itfactorya is of artisans, wife said Bartolucci’s (only) for small parts,” with was honored the company In 2007, Maria. a Eurispes for artisanal award excellence. a a varnisher, there’s specializes: Each worker each trained and a woodcutter, screener silk it be Pinocchio, design, The task. her or his in one on, is silk-screened or a bee, a cute angel, color at a time. Bartolucci in the factory still works every day. taking He carves for each airplane, a propeller In each that each is different. care to ensure a him fashioning showing plays, a DVD store, not just visiting He wants everyone, Pinocchio. craving. to see the magic of wood children, wants to transmit the emotion “Francesco forthe toys making people,” the when has he Maria said. hair decorations, Bartolucci also makes girls’ and magnets shaped as key chains, earrings, He even carvesballerina shoes and zodiac signs. soccer teams. the mascots of Italy’s “The of entering is like how moment the store like “People he said. applause,” receives an actor create.” what you

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By H By Pinocchio Goes Global Goes Pinocchio A six-foot Pinocchio visitors to the greets found as if you’ve It’s Bartolucci shop in Urbino. at last. workshop Santa’s never plastic. of wood, made are here Toys clocks The hands of wooden in move of Pinocchios Rows of all sizes fill unison. motorcycle A wooden is parked the shelves. in the middle of things. is a family this shops in LeLike many Marche, business. founded the company 57, Bertolucci, Francesco shop in Belvedere woodworking in his father’s (13 miles) from 21 kilometers Fogliense, the outside Its only identification from Urbino. ring. We is the Bartolucci the bell. name on enter we While to answer, for waiting someone Wood a small now museum. the old workshop, carving are there everywhere; shavings are the 19th century;instruments from a radio and case. even a cigarette the 1930s; from phone each And carving is a family tradition. Wood give he’d time Bartolucci carvednew a character, MariaNow one to his daughter Maria. the first still her. the next one excites is 21 – but getting Her father chose to specialize in Pinocchio carving in wood “people start withbecause “When the read you she said. Pinocchio,” The about Italy.” read you story of Pinocchio, as Italy tale was written in the 19th century, One of Bartolucci’s a nation. was becoming marionettes in Robert was even featured “Pinocchio.” 2002 film, Benigni’s Bartolucci enchants – and visiting children carving – by their parents his Pinocchios in of them. front he When Bartolucci in the 1980s, began work after enjoyed his figures Then, alone. worked markets, traveling success in the stalls of Italy’s Urbino in in 1990. the first shop was opened, Photo By Ariana McLaughlin Ariana By Photo

continued 43 on page

vision. Some paper makers Some paper makers filigranisti’s vision.

He hopes his own son, currently attending son, He hopes his own will a technical institute for papermaking, his work. continue He picked up the trade himself “very He picked up the trade himself gradually” a couple elderly ago. from years mastro “Young people don’t want to learn, because want to learn, people don’t “Young Luigi said. a sacrifice,” requires work The most common barriers a The most common to becoming of papermaking like Luigi lack mastro of are During of learning, the years time and money. forno little to as apprentices work students A full-time papermaker can earn money. a month. perhaps 1,000 euro Reaching this level of expertise exacts a Reaching this level of expertise a exacts price that not everyone is willing to pay. The filigranisti Sometimes physical. it’s these intricatewho create designs often explained. Crocetti “have big glasses,” Staring holes they mesh and tiny at the wire damaged through sewmust steel thread the dipping blackened from fingertips have “They shed paper into hot water all day. she said. skin like a snake,” The watermarks Crocetti presents in her tour her in presents Crocetti watermarks The inThe images the best in the world. among are not in steel after of reflect ridges a room room draped and hair, but human skin frame, mesh a metal helmet. the sun gleaming on cloth, all Some elaborate calendars, are sheets perfectly with a single page, twelve on months and heraldic flowers symmetrical vines, symbols wrapping each month. around A true master, Luigi says, can a set of create Luigi says, A true master, paper in which every sheet is identical. Listening to Luigi finer points of the detail the of paper making think begins to one process, or perhaps a bizarre as gourmet cooking, ways many are There science experiment. whichpoints in timing, many wrong, go to You crucial. are judgment and good instinct You rightwater. the need the in temperature fiber and glue amounts of water, need correct might You colored). is paper the if dye, (and or keep the smooth the paper incorrectly, too long. going hammer press As the fiber settles, the papermaker swishes As the fiber settles, the controlling the frame back and forth, When he is size of the new and shape paper. wet sheet out an assistant lays the finished, to 99 The paper is about 80 percent wool. on is press so a screw at this point, water percent used to squeeze water. out excess p hi ti sans Ar p hi ti sans Ar Urbino Now 2010-2011 20 Marche is allabout cucina povera simple ingredients, picked, recently –afew caughtorkilled andSea Straight fromtheEarth Photo ByArahBahn By H along thewindingroads. astop. are worth They definitely sfogliata Crescia , amuch-loved local of AscoliPiceno. asan antipasto, served The olives are often stands butalsolookforthem atsmall In snacks,, olive olives with pork, stuffed fried all’ascolana city found in thesouthern typically are texture holesthroughout. withsmall crumbly Itisabeautifulwhite color. is usedinmany pasta dishes., sweet, Casciotta adelightfully d’Urbino acidic cheese, lightly hasa to ParmesanSimilar in its hard, flaky texture, Romano boasts a salty, pecorino flavor, sharp and shape, andcylindrical consistency andapungent, almostbitterflavor; itisconsidered adelicacy. cow’s milk, –theword fossa means “buried,” ismatured asthecheese underground --hasafirm Two Made withablendofsheep’s difossa. are popularcheeses pecorinoRomanoandformaggio and wild boarandrabbit. andfishproducts dominate Fish on thecoast,truffles and find whileinthemountains you’ll pig, Anrichetta “Keki” Pompili, Alimentare inCagli. andcafé ownerpurveyor ofthefood long region, Marche isavery “Le therefore ofcuisine,” we have different styles saidMaria produceDishes dependontheirrich, local andmeatsfor flavors. full-bodied are itsprofile. helping toraise industry and theexpandingagriturismo farmhouses but small liesinitstraditional, ofthefood beauty flavors. hearty It’s less well-known thanotherItaliancuisines, andcultures –anditscuisinereflectsa rangeofItalianclimates thesameastonishingrange. The fromStretching mountains to sea, and south, both the Italian and north touching Marche spans Le and seasonal approachitselfon, that prides above all, stunningfreshness. Marche hascalled “the other Tuscany,” cucinapovera butitsrustic reflects afarm-to-fork, elemental eather Anderson Enjoy! them,make andserve pages. in thefollowing Marche, andmeet the peoplewhogrow, You’ll read more ofLe aboutthefoods and stuffed roasted overon aspit afire. A traditional dish isporchetta, awholepig, andpigeon, rabbit such oron pork and veal. focus The inlandmeatdishestendtoongame, over toasted bread. served is traditionally coast.Sea, Made withthefishof Adriatic it Brodetto, adelectablefishstew, comes from the withawildboarragu.served strozzapreti –are often “choke thepriest”-- broth.chicken The hand-rolledtwists pasta in cooked andserved passatelli istypically with eggs, breadcrumbs andParmesean, passatelli food thecomfort .especially Made Marche isknownitshomemade for pastas,Le are andEaster. bakedatChristmas asanappetizer.served versions cheese Special or cheese, features atmany acafé, andisalso withspinach, stuffed flatbread often prosciutto relatives!” perfect cuttoserveyour gluttonous Advised onefoodieblog: today. “The evidently do the job. No word on the results,but to likeliest seemed which shape, pasta So they developed this heavy hand-rolled more expensivesecond,ormeatcourse. beforereaching course, thepasta, would chokeon priests thecheaperfirst hoped thefreeloading and restaurateurs Another version had it thatpoor peasants wished thepriestswouldchokeonit. considered tantamount to bedding her), was pasta wife’s a (eating jealousy with wild the farmers, that said was rent. It local the bribe clergymen who came tocollectthe to twists pasta thick make would wives farmers’ landowner, When abigMarche the churchwas Past Priest-C v strozzapreti

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21 Urbino Now 2010-2011 ry t n u o hen they move into Then continued 42 on page he C t e in m o A H many crazymany can a plate… put on things you about the it’s Marche] Tavola [at Lahere can find, you possible ingredients freshest can to them.”and doing the least you garlic and alfalfa, zucchini, They grow and plan to start raising livestock. peaches, the classes cooking thriving; are Jason’s tourists more to couple hopes to inspire cuisine and sustainable bring regional the lifestyle back home. Ashley Whilekitchen, the maintains Jason chopstests her acting with the guests. naturallyHosting comes to the former theater major. still telling storya are with being “You each still a show putting on you’re guests; “Iall tellto time the Jason said. ”she night, ‘work the room.’” Lush vegetation, colorful blooms and rustic colorfulrustic and blooms Lush vegetation, a scenic 500 acres. over facades spread stone all named The five private apartments, cucina povera -- the rural, peasant style Le Marche is known for. Classes are typically kept to six visit with a begin to local They generally guests. drops neighbor a if and markets, and farms the what is on of veal, that is with a leg by that menu evening. the kitchen or the outdoor woodburning oven for the cooking lessons. day of the most rewarding moment The of class, end as students and comes at the over a delicious, fellowship in guests join authentic meal. dolce, to from antipasto all it do “We three hours and it’s said. It doesn’t have to be complicated so simple,” Jason to be great.” - Heather Anderson I I lass at Tavola Marche Maduzia. “When La Tavola Marche t of London visited. hif

S ooking C ooking odaro T magazine featured Tavola Marche as as Marche Tavola magazine featured Telegraph have learned from Jason the things “I have learned Cooking classes are meant to be an intimate experience, at dictated by the desires of the guest. away walk to like would you that it is “What with?” Jason will ask. “ A once-in-a-lifetime recreateyou once experience, or something you have returned home?” can be creative the recipes that with and former said closely, following be I should student Tanja culinary went home, I took the techniques I learned from Jason with me.” The apple cake and are now salad recipes she learned lentil staples in her kitchen. of simplicity is to illustrate the goal The Italian cooking, using the ingredients highest to quality create dishes that reflect A C The BIG The The couple met at university in 1998, and and The couple met at university in 1998, and a hunger culture food, over bonded After marrying in Aprilfor 2006, life. Jason where City, York they settled in New and Culinary Institute, attended the French Ashley pursued acting. for love food developed when he was Jason’s during Sundayswatchingof football child, a After working his father. with and cooking York in several in New high-end restaurants a explore he wanted to and San Francisco, to cooking. authentic approach more was allabout how York in New “Cooking Although held out as the “American couple” couple” “American Although held out as the by a local “adopted” the Bartnerswere at first, and quickly embraced the Gaggis, couple, traditional From lifestyle. the Marchegiano foods, celebrations to the regional holiday they’ve in the change of pace. reveled Budget They’ve quick fame: enjoyed also Travel schools of eight top cooking worldwide one from and a correspondent “worth their salt,” the

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An American couple founds a cooking school, and finds a new and finds home An American school, founds couple a cooking A Marche Table A Marche “With the locals, you need a key. When “With need a key. you the locals, the door to a open you that key, get you Ashley emphasized. whole new world,” The Bartners have since learned to embrace The Bartners since learned to embrace have and to work idiosyncrasies, their property’s with the local community of farmers and agriturismo owners. “We were supposed to move in on the the in on supposed to move were “We “But arrived, when we recalled. Jason 20th,” we phrase The first frozen. the pipes were which learned, in Italian was tubi gelati means frozen pipes.” They moved in in 2007, on Christmas Day, on Christmas Day, They in in 2007, moved be to it would hard realizedand soon how maintain a centuries-old building. “We met this guy [at La Tavola Marche] and and Marche] Tavola met this guy [at La “We the house for 20 minutes. walked around “We said. Jason this feeling,” just got We of a glass had signed at the kitchen table, hands and shook clinked glasses, grappa, that was it.” Deciding to move abroad proved to be the to be the proved abroad Deciding to move The couple quickly learned easiest part. about the trials land in Italy, of purchasing tape for weeks deals and red with broken they found the 300 Eventually, to follow. in farmhouse named Ca’Camone year-old and signed a six-year of Piobbico, the town the spot. lease on “We decided to have a tiny wedding with with wedding a tiny decided to have “We just a few a rockin’ people and then have “is she said, That, Ashley said. honeymoon,” it all startedwhere happening.” They moving to Italy began to consider after in 2006. a honeymoonsplurging on there In some ways, Jason and Ashley Bartner are and AshleyJason Bartner are ways, some In go she doesn’t to cook; he loves opposites: She blogging about enjoys near the stove. near go life their agriturismo on he won’t ; to desire the duo’s But it’s a computer. that makes embrace Italian life culture and Agriturismo Marche Tavola their business, to the region. an asset School, Cooking and Urbino Now 2010-2011 22 truffles begins. truffles Force,in neighboring where thehuntfor Paoloto hisfriend Cicciole’s agriturismo evening’s cooking lesson. travel Then they’ll upfreshthat andeggsfor pick asparagus first stop inComunanzaby hisfarm to boy. day trip, Onatypical avisitorwould asayounghis fatherandgrandfather going outwith since truffles for who hashunted Marche native Moretti, 23, isa out clients. from whenheisn’t truffle-hunting taking Moreno Moretti, afarmer, makeshisliving Marche Holiday isone ofthese: owner theirguests. for hunting asanactivity Le single day. truffle- offer agriturismi Several truffle-hunter to rolein a oftruffle-lover Marche,In Le jumpfrom one can the thebest. for can they and restaurateurs are ready topay whatever Foodies itspotentscentandtaste, achefor adish. transform that elusive funguscan or cook itinafrittata, something about besidesshave it over pasta,with atruffle Although there do isnot much can a chef The truffles Moreno finds generally weigh Moreno findsThe truffles generally dig outthehiddentreasure. treat. above hisnew prances Moreno helps Once hefindsatruffle, thedog barks and desperately, scent. thetruffle huntingfor Paolo’s property. runs around The dog dog, surrounding through thewoodlands Moreno, Paolo andMoreno’s truffle-hunting atatimeventure outwith Up toeightclients H o w t Truffles evoke exoticism, luxury o and ladolce vita. is reality The Find T Fungus The sudden death of a successful truffle-hunting dogisnotunheard truffle-hunting asuccessful The suddendeathof of.very jealous, “Peopleare R UFFLES a littledifferent. By K and willkillthedogs,” huntersaid. Moretti Moreno truffle atie EAT Suare cooking lesson using the truffles they’ve found.cooking they’ve lesson using the truffles New former York chef, City give will thema Marche dialect. return, they When Jason, a inthe Italian---hespeaksonly nor classical hunter,truffle whospeaksneither English Marche’s property. This neighborisa genuine La huntwiththeirneighbor on truffle Tavola out on take a a maximumwill of two clients owners JasonBartner andAshley American on page 21].hunting [seerelated article kilometers (25miles)away, truffle alsooffers La Tavola Marche in Piobbico, about 40 understand thepower oftourism.” Moreno. inthisarea don’t agriturismi “Many this activity,” wasthefirsttoorganize “I stated hunting nearComunanza. truffle offer Not many otheragriturismi flavor andaroma ofthetruffle. before cooking, soakupthe sothe eggwill together for six placedays egg and truffle frittata. It’s simpletomaster-butone must One ofMoreno’s recipes favorite is a truffle green eyes wideningwithexcitement. goeshome,” back the client saidMoreno, his “We aneasyrecipe when for teachtheclient tothe cooking back lesson.some tobring about25to40minutesbeforefor finding truffles be out huntingfor will clients Usually pound],” saidMoreno. grams [abouta thatis400-450 white truffle summertruffle.black easytofinda “It’s very tend tobelarger thanthe truffles White 200-250 grams, or about half a pound. z Fever The least valuable truffle is the black summer isthe black The leastvaluable truffle inFebruary.penultimate Sunday inwinter.found isthe for thistruffle The fair The second truffle, most valuableistheblack andItaly,Slovenia Capannasaid. on thepeninsula of Istria, shared by Croatia, of truffles, and found inItaly be can only asit types isthemost precious ofthethree truffle Truffle, in October andNovember. The white There’s the National White Fair of the andaficionados canmeet.truffle-sellers Acqualagna hasthree majorfairs, where tourists, Acqualagna’s mayor from 1999 to2009. according Capanna, toBruno as whoserved 700to800residents hunters,Some are truffle commercializing products. truffle in huntingorpackaging, orcreating and life. Acqualagna, population 4,400, isthe andmore activity away ofless ofatourist truffle-hunting makes The valueoftruffles can doathome.” can pasta, andhelikesdoingthingsthatpeople other than shaving off a little bit on top of isn’t“There can dowithatrufflemuch you acheerful,said Ashley lankybrunette. it’s product nothisfavorite tocook with,” on cook will withtruffle request,“Jason but Jason’s preferred ingredient. Despite mostfoodies’ truffles, love for it’s not T HE ACQ U ALAGNA trade –whether from thetruffle make theirliving Most residents truffle’s home base. LINK 23 Urbino Now 2010-2011

v Photo By Katie SuarezPhoto By Katie ffle uffle er Hunt ing ming Beco Tra Anyone can become a truffle hunter. One is can a truffle become hunter. Anyone to learn the only to take ten lessons, required history of truffles and to observesome safety a license is issued. Then regulations. explained professionals,” “The hunters aren’t field.” a professional “This isn’t Capanna. the other Italian fields, as in many so, Even practice of truffle-hunting has been passed to generation. generation from down “It’s a tradition.” Said with a shrug, Moreno hunters, like Moreno, export their products like Moreno, hunters, their own. on sell their truffles to and Paolo Moreno mainlysupplying London, in establishments of Jamie Oliver. the restaurants from of trufflesThe main consumers come Canada France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, also sold are Products and the United States. and in restaurants and in enotecas locally, the country. around an enoteca near di Bussu, Casa del Formaggio sells a variety Luciano Bussu, by Urbino owned oil, including white truffle of truffleproducts, butter with truffle, black summer trufflecream, with truffle, mushrooms of porcini cream and the whole summer truffle. truffle sauce, a sales representative, Bussu buys from products The twice about a week. “presenter,” called a buys and Acqualagna, from comes presenter directly a man who works from his products with the truffle hunters.

Moreno Moretti “I taught my dog when he was a puppy, just just “Ipuppy, was a when he my dog taught said. Moreno old,” months or two one it depends “The priceon the season, depends “If it rains for a week, he said. the weather,” on the price will up.” go difficult for the dogs to it’s When rains, it rain and snow Yet the more smell the truffles. better: the during year, the soil receives the the water enriches the soil and helps develop better-tasting truffles. Some hunters prices. Hunters set their own Truffles with individual truffle-sellers. work including the sold in a varietyare of places, and at the Salone del fairs in Acqualagna, an annual fair in the north of Italy Gusto, in the Slow farmers and workers where off their products, show movement Food and restaurants, enotecas, of and owners Some truffle them. buy to come shops other Dogs are taught as puppies to search for taught as puppies to search the Dogs are and to distinguish the scents of the truffle, various truffles. Killing a truffle-hunter’s dog may seem dog Killing a truffle-hunter’s but the dog plays an integral part strange, Any type of dog can be in the truffle hunt. with to work prefers but Moreno used, in smarter, are breeds Though pure mutts. apt to more are he thinks mutts his opinion, and thus easier to train. learn, “It’s a horrible thing, but it is common,” it is common,” but “It’s a horrible thing, over his excitement Capanna acknowledged, “It trufflesof topic the moment. ebbinga for they are newin where places common more is just beginning to find truffles.” “People envy each other’s land and people’s people’s and land other’s each envy “People very are “People explained Moreno. dogs,” and will kill the dogs.” jealous, With such revenues, envy among truffle among envy With such revenues, hunters runs high. The prized white truffle can sell for 2,500 a kilo (about $1,420 to to 7,000 euros The Capanna explained. $4,000 per pound), to black 1,000 truffle from precious ranges per kilo ($570 to $1,140 per 2,000 euro blackthe and pound) trufflesummer from per kilo (about $114 to 200 to 800 euro he said. $450 per pound), Hunters set their truffle prices based on and the size the weather truffle. of the availability, truffle, because it is the most common, and becausecommon, is the most it truffle, fair for the regional The the easiest to find. black summer truffle in mid- place takes The black summer truffleknown also August. 1 May from it is in season as the scorzone; December 31. through Urbino Now 2010-2011 24 empty are quickly replaced ones. are withfull quickly empty tothetable,brought immediately andonce vinorosso oflocal andvinobiancoare Carafes balanced,. biancosardo cheese earthy madecheese of sheep and cow’s milk, and the shares aplatewithcasciotto, diUrbino asoft ofthenodes oftheexquisite region, truffles ,con tartufo ahard studdedwithdelicate cheese Pecorino ricotta. of freshandsoft mozzarella high withprosciutto andsalamiBresato, knots For antipasto, guestssitdown toplatespiled Famously, changes. themenunever service. delicious dishesandhome-style isapparent intherestaurant’s that authenticity andmother, ofhergrandmother kitchens and Emanuela. Antonellatherecipes learned inthe by Antonella Ciacci, and andhersistersCarmen three for generations.Ciacci family Itisnow run fixtureoverGallo for ahundred years, andinthe knows it: Everyone the restaurant hasbeena Urbino to Pesaro, inthe sleepy hamlet of Gallo. daCiacci Ristorante on theroadFind from The menunever changes –andthat’s atCiacci justtheway people likeit A Restaurant Worth Crowing About EAT By HEATHER ANDERSON Cagli office worker dumps documents for lovecoffee and worker dumpsforaffairwithcheese Cagli office documents toFoodieFrom Functionary

Photo By Heather Anderson and traveled to Trieste, torenowned coffee in nearby Fano tobetterunderstandoils, three tocheese. devoted visited experts She study on thecomplexities ofwine. Another the products shesold: three months of unusual. tomaster enrolled inclasses She ofcommitmentHer level toexcellenceis natural, fresh options. products carefully, shesells givingherclients eating prompts and the foods hertochoose Her lifelonginterest andhealthy innutrition customers.health andenjoyment ofhernew fromher focus andcontracts wills tothe “for myown good health,” shesaid, changing embarked adventure on hernew She atage 40, Alimentare, along-held fulfilling dream. Pompili shop andcafé openedthefood a Caglinotary, Anrichetta Maria “Keki” 20years ofworkingAfter intheofficeof By HEATHER ANDERSON family andfriends. family and communions, and tospendtimewith come birthdays to when celebrate the locals lunch. SaturdayorSunday visit for This is professionals. For Ciacci thefull experience, tends tobe much faster, toaccommodate local hours. lastfor Ciacci dinnerscan service Lunch in secondo. 25 euros, we’d thesecond timeafter indulged groups visited, to 18 euros our tabs came and calculus. IeiMedia Onthetwo occasions kitchen person tabbasedon some mysterious register, where theattendanttotsupyour per- No comes bill toyour table. You go tothecash order your anarrayfor group. toimpossible, isclose Choosing adesert so This tenderdishisahousespecialty. beef--ismore thewait. thanworth grilled the second course. alabrace– Butthecarne lasagna makeithard tosave room secondo, for breadcrumb pastapassatelli andincredible food. Risottowithvegetables, thelocal tortellini inbrodo , theultimateItaliancomfort and homemaderices pastas. There’s a flavorful The primo piattoprimo , orfirstcourse, consists of

stay thenight. asumptuousmeal, such sleepy after you could daCiacci --soifyou were feeling Locanda There’s alsoanattachedinn, thethree-star the restaurant anintimate, feel. comfortable appreciation from Ciacci’s give dotingclientele figurines, paintings, plates.of These tokens the restaurant isburstingwithrooster kitsch: theyears,Over keptcoming, thegifts andnow with roosters (gallo meansrooster inItalian). platespainted ofceramic gifts hospitality first guests, joke,wry inakindof brought a refurbished, larger space nine years ago, the the Ciaccis moved the restaurant into When are surprised,” shesaid. “Americans have a summer, andnot inDecember,’ [people] and notinthewinter,’ and ‘tomatoes inthe Isay,“When ‘you eat peachesinthesummer, wine oftheregion, andaboutseasonal eating. Pompili and talkstothem aboutthefoods andcoffee,come lunch tohershopfor and Marche. aroundbiking trips Le cyclists The a company innearby Fano thatorganizes list ofstopsrecommended by ClassicCycling, one ofhergreatest passions. She’s made the herknowledge withhercustomers is Sharing clients,” shesaid. the products Isell, my educate soIcan the products, toknow, butIchoose tomaster totake thecoursestosell “It’s notnecessary master’s degree incoffee. Università de Caffe, Illy’s purveyor a toearn [email protected] Reservations for restaurant or hotel: e-mail: [email protected] www.locandaciacci.it Tel: 0722-355.030 (12 kilometers/7.5miles)fromUrbino. Via Roma152, GallodiPetriano Locanda daCiacci Ristoran v continued onpagecontinued 42 te

25 Urbino Now 2010-2011

v Italy are Pergola, a Easter Sunday, festival in Cagli, he visciolino is a visciolino The Families gather for , on the Sunday after the Sunday , on Easter. Fermignano he town began the palio as a the palio townbegan The By touring vineyards in early spring, ay, usually rides through May, usually Giro d’ Italia, in Crescia Time After 40 days of prayer, solemnity and long misty fog, Marche revives on with feasts, festivals,crescia and di pascua, bread traditionally a characteristic regional produced around Palio della celebration is the Palio unusual One race involving wheelbarrow Rana, a large frogs in Easter. Week. Holy throughout dinners celebratory features from the its independence of celebration it and 1607, in Montefeltro of Duke lords and ladies in medieval costume reenacting the original celebration. In the countryside, you’ll see people wild the picking fields, the across wandering the local diet.still play a part in herbs that Dandelions and poppies may be eaten raw in oilolive in sautéed then boiled and or salads, and garlic, then dressed with lemon. where vineyards In a region stretch across hills, wine tours rolling run nearly year round. But summer they through should be mid-spring easier busy to the book before now, season. the crowds. beat you’ll produced in special cherry wine favorite of residents and visitors alike. Food- Slow wonderful the brings April Late supported Distinti Salumi where purveyors from around are Pigs salumeria. to show off their invited by January; in cured and killed traditionally now the products are ready to eat http:// www.distintisalumi.com/ , In the elegant seaside community of Fano always a festival devoted to yachtingthere’s http://www.fanoyachtfestival.it/ Biking season is beginning, this make roads too; quiet and Marche’s terrain undulating a hospitable region for riding. Though bike rentals can be hard to come by, the region means to encourage are springing and clubs groups cycling holiday bike tourism, and up http://www.turismo.marche.it/ The Marche. Expect Giro 2011 to be especially elaborate, since it will commemorate Italy’s 150th year as a country. Oddly, been there’s talk of a kickoff in the United States. –Heather Doyle SPRING.. Urbino deserves a TourTally rating of 85. TourTally Urbino deserves a Virtually everything can be found inside the majestic city walls walk within 15 minutes -- but after the center of town a long from calves in your the soreness of walking, day and quadriceps will certainly of you remind covered. you’ve of the ground the steepness A warning: since A warning: the city is perched in the mountains of central east Italy, many are there steep hills that

cruise around town on foot. Visitors arriving foot. on cruise town around Borgo the at off willbus dropped be by the foot at of the square a large Mercatale, also fails to take note city center (WalkScore lines to other towns, bus direct of Urbino’s and to the train station). ViaA quick walk up 300-yard Giuseppe Piazzathe to bringsMazzini you Della with a few square a large hundred Republica, seats for cafes. the plentiful outdoor Via northHead on you’ll Raffaello and pass a di Rafaello the Casa Natale small supermarket, (the birthplace of the painter Raphael, and gift with museum complete shop) and a eventually a Rafaello, Monumento reach with views statue inside of a park gorgeous yards hundred Another of the countryside. up a modest incline Albornoz, is the Fortezza that overlooksa public park the city and or a photo-ops for great provides some nice opportunity for a picnic (Helllooooo, claim with your that the nearest Walkscore, is 2 km -- 1.25 miles -- away!) public park those with knee or back problems may have a have may those with knee or back problems seem doesn’t (Topography time navigating. hard calculations, WalkScore’s into to be factored I saw a hill, hike up one On a recent either.) mother trying off sons young coax her two to they clearlyof a stoop; the did not appreciate a city of building concept to conform to such Some of the steeper hills a rugged landscape. includeVia Raffaello and ViaVia Mazzini; thanalso rises slower but much VittorioVeneto the first two. So quality recommended. walking shoes are the traversing mastered have The local women but this in six-inch heels, streets cobblestoned of practice. taken years have must all of should be able to reach age of any Travelers foot. on points of interest Urbino’s writer that a 21-year-old thinking Readers in the best idea of not have shape might good walkability need not worry: also seen a spry I’ve cruise the city young around 86 years woman with ease. My conclusion? On a scale to 100, of one What went wrong? closest bookstore an 18-mile journey. All false! journey. an 18-mile closest bookstore with the closest supermarket 15 miles away, and the 15 miles away, with the closest supermarket WalkScore inaccurately finds Urbino “car-dependent,” “car-dependent,” finds Urbino inaccurately WalkScore Hartman avid

Any visitor to Urbino will quicklyAny notice that the elderly and families all college students, To remedy this injustice, I set out to give injustice, this remedy To dubbed mine I’ve WalkScore. Urbino my own “TourTally.” The movie theater makes the list, and so does Il The movie theater makes the list, had we the pretty where restaurant Cortegiano, The is there, Palace Ducal dinner. our goodbye But our local supermarket and so is city hall. all the gelaterias? are where And isn’t. Rather, Google Earth that the city suggests is Rather, filledonlyrestaurants. with hotels and Simply put, few of Urbino’s everyday businesses few of Urbino’s Simplyput, for. accounted are Evidently the isproblem draws amenityits listings from WalkScore that which that tends to skip places Google Maps, of and discourages non-owners lack websites, entering location those businesses from data In as well). (info tends to mainly be in English, most highlyand linked in United States, wired these scores listed – and therefore, business are accurate. more are What gives? These inaccuracies leave Urbino with an unjust leave These inaccuracies – dependent” “car or rating of 46 out of 100, “a few amenities defines as WalkScore which within walking distance.” Yet this city has half a dozen of 15,000 in fact Yet centergroceries within walking distance of the American-style two of town; supermarkets; several and at least pharmacies well-equipped centrallythree located bookstores. According to WalkScore (http://www. WalkScore to According is 24 supermarket the nearest walkscore.com), and the closest bookstore km (15 miles) away, should Nor than 30 km (18.6 miles) away. more easilywe been able to pick have up urgent which to this rating tool, according medication, claims that the closest pharmacy is nearly 29 km the highway. (18 miles) down By D By a jazzy totool pro-smartgrowth WalkScore, is wildly inaccurate “walkability,” a city’s gauge the small Renaissance city Urbino, on in its read while studying journalism and stayed we where this magazine. producing Not “car-dependent,” but supremely walkable but supremely walkable “car-dependent,” Not How WalkScore Flubbed Urbino Flubbed WalkScore How NG LIVI Urbino Now 2010-2011 26 “There aretwo kinds ofpeople,“There Ithink,” of Urbino.the University foreign language andliterature graduate of you get stuck,” saidElenaGarbugli, arecent and cooked for.up after -- until It’s perfect to pay tolive athome, andyou are cleaned wouldn’t“Who wantthat? You don’t have to move out. work thatwouldself-supporting allowthem parents, sincethat’s easierthanfindingthe But manyto stay choose home with their already ofworkers. full resume tocompanies sendresumeSome after insixyears.level 30%,nearly thehighest of an unemployment rate hard:Italians especially peopleage 15-24face The globaleconomichashit crisis young tofindjobssoon.grads are likely Statistically, two thirds only of these new But many are a letdown. also bracing for bouquets. andcorks pop. click Cameras are crowned withlaurel wreaths; handsclasp collegegraduatesarenew celebrating. Heads It’s June, around andall Urbino, gaggles of Photo ByDarioBigongiari By HEATHER DO Y LE “Some could(leave home),“Some butstay because itiseasier, wishto really whileothers leave –Recent University of Urbinograduate–Recent University of ElenaGarbugli With nearly 30 percent of Italy’s 30percentof nearly With young people unemployed, but can’t becausecan’t they support themselves.” hire them. can’t get thatexperience, no one will because for. thejobsthey’refor applying Butthey recent gradsaretheexperience lack toldthey It’s a familiar Catch-22, over: the world whohave workedexperts before.” don’t want me. difficult. Itisvery They want to usethelanguages... thatIlearned butthey heard nothing. I studied to be an interpreter, andI sent[resumes]“I to10enterprises speaks English, andFrench. Spanish are too picky!”“They said Garbugli, who demanding. unrealistically alsofinds potentialemployersGarbugli home withtheirparents years. for The result: many jobless young peoplestay want togocan’t.” butthey itiscomfortable,because andthepeoplewho leave homepeople whocan butdon’t wantto months. several searching ajobfor for “The said Garbugli, had been whoat this writing the future looks frightening for Urbino’s for looksthe future frightening college grads

Party’s Over The first level offers basic job-matching leveloffers basic job-matching The first walkedinhere.”expecting whenthey [seal thedeal], were isnotwhatthey which said.Raia “However, itisupto them to “We findthem[theunemployed] the jobs, tofindandkeepjobs.help inlearning its doors. Rather, theunemployed itoffers jobs, tothe dismay ofthosewhowalkthrough But thecenterdoesn’t place peoplein actually searching andmaintainingemployment. for workers.inexperienced focuses The center on peoplewhohave workedfor never before. biggest problemfor us here is to get jobs “The people alsoface record unemployment rates. and Greece, like Spain countries where young the Mediterranean, noted, Raia in especially the ages of20and34. It’s anissuearound – Centro usersin2008-2009were between – Centro. 3,400Job Almosthalfofthenearly Job Urbino officeoftheemployment service now,” Raia, agreed Stefano head ofthe “Young unemployed peopleare theproblem between experienced and between experienced thegap tobridge trying Job –Centro have been Establishments like thejob,for notajob.” stayThey athome waiting LIVING 27 Urbino Now 2010-2011

Photo By Dario Bigongiari

v of men surveyed only a middle to 52% of compared twice as were university clients women were degree.

– Urbino employment center chief center Stefano Raia– Urbino employment “They stay at home waiting for the job, not a job.” “They not a job.” at home waiting for the job, stay NG LIVI “You can study at a university and learn all about a field, but if there is no practical education, it is no practical but if there education, can study at a university and learn all about a field, “You than just theory need more in the classroom.” “You she said. does not help,” “I want to get out of Urbino,” she said of her hometown. “It’s so small, and I have been here my been here and I have “It’s so small, she said of her hometown. “I out of Urbino,” want to get it is still a small residents, for its a hotspot for artThough it’s and Renaissance history, whole life.” Italian hill town. “I could have studied something I didn’t like, like economics, and get a job, but be miserable,” she but be miserable,” a job, and get like economics, like, I didn’t “I studied something could have But I don’t they did that and they much hated it. talked about how lot of people I know “A said. She lead would hoped a career in languages I loved.” want to do that! I wanted to do something her to a job in which she could travel. She’d expected to easily find a job near Urbino, or abroad. expected to easilyUrbino, find a job near She’d Garbugli came to believe that the language studies department didn’t structure her program structure her program Garbugli came studies departmentto believe that the language didn’t by does, as the education program graduation, jobs upon to help its students get advantageously, with legal internships. does, and the law program offering student teaching, “The new three year degree is exactly like the old five year degree -- exactly the same!” Garbugli exactly -- same!” the degree year “The is exactly five the old like degree year new three It year degree.’ a five need you no, ‘no, they say try“But when you that, to tell [employers] said. is exhausting.” The emphasis on face-to-face contact also appears to work against women. The pattern in Italy women. against work also appears to contact on face-to-face The emphasis be to tends man the apply credentials for equal job, with same the woman and man a if that is better credentials who use the center tend to have Women those interviewed suggested. hired, 65% than men: condensed was degree five-year Then the Studentsyears for their degree. used to study for five specialized more degree could obtain a higher, he or she a student chose, and if years, into three studying forby years. another two “In Italy, it is all about the person, not just the credentials,” Raia specified, stressing the importance stressing Raia specified, not just the credentials,” it is all about the person, “In Italy, of an interview. Garbugli said a reform of university also seemed to be confusing education ago several years potential employers. The video program ran from January to June in 2010, but now is on hiatus, while the effectiveness while the effectiveness on hiatus, is but now January The video program ran from to June in 2010, of kind a offersit as employers though, Raia forhopes high has it, evaluated. is program the of a resume. just reading by get information about a candidate they wouldn’t achieved had school education, Women women. likely a to have 202 although And while experience, work previous had women 1,668 to 69 men, compared first time job seekers, onlymen did. 714 Offices in Urbino, Fano and Pesaro have created an experimental “video curriculum,” which Raia created an experimental “video curriculum,” have Pesaro Fano and Offices in Urbino, video five-minute to a to make taught two were Job-seekers called in Italy. kind of its first the information camera. on and contact hobbies, credentials, stating their names, resume, services, market information and training, and forwards in other work potential offers to information and training, market services, The counseling and job training. vocational given are job seekers Next, countries. European physically center also offers for those who are placement or mentally disabled. Urbino Now 2010-2011 28

Pediconi thedisplay at perfecting wasstill by oflight. encircled rays Christ Passion ofChrist.” His piecedepictedJesus design withotherresidents, called “The Boldrini, crouching besideadisplay hehelped 4:30 inthemorning,” said resident Alberto “We beganat9:30pm anddidn’t finish until with spritzer. walked along theroad, freshening theflowers the middaysunashebriskly Mediterranean Pediconi washard atwork intheheatof another. night before, hesaid, andthegroups help one atabout9p.m.the displays theSaturday began hostingit. People beginassembling year sincethetown every at theInfiorata Castelraimondo native whohasvolunteered Pediconi,Giovanni middle-aged ajovial between thegroups,”no rivalry said “It’s areligious festival, sothere isreally flower art. Castelraimondo residents composed works of the bodyofChrist. In2010, 21groups of is meanttocover thehostrepresenting Each rectangular offlower frame petals one oftheregion’s celebrations. most elaborate Castelraimondo, avillageof4,500, putson Easter, after 60 days festival falls The and hisresurrection.into heaven after beliefofJesus Christ’sascension Christian Infiorata, anannual celebrationofthe reach Castelraimondo’s Domini 18th Corpus and visitors strolled down theCorso Italia to Sunday, lively It wasanunusually aslocals angels, crosses andotherreligious images. road, intoshapesofdoves, swirling roses, and turquoise blueflower petalspeppered the red,A sea of cherry fuchsia, lipstick deep green Castelraimondo’s Infiorata celebrates andspring Christ STOR Y By K atie Suare been made over theyear.” details, advances thathave andthetechnical herlife.Castelraimondo all patience, “The the womana shy who’s middle-aged lived in “It’s marvelous,” whispered Moci, Giovanna booth.information Marino,San saidawoman manningthe agroup ofahundredfromincluding tourists More were tourists seenintown thisyear, and otherresidents. government, andthe rest from merchants local Half ofthefundsare procured by thetown festival, said, Boldrini costabout$31,000. wildflowers along the picked road. Theentire kindsofflowersAll are used, some including Repubblica. ends, asfireworks della popabove Piazza midnight strikes, thesolemnprocession that represents thebodyofChrist. Once atop the flowerwhile holding the host art parades down theCorsoItalia, stepping of theSacredFamily. clergy The local year atthenearby Church wascelebrated isamass,The mainevent that which played game. on thebumpercar Children around ran with balloons, and enjoyedsimply andfriends. timewithfamily photos, atethetown’s famousgelato or wasworking.Not everyone snapped Visitors deep red petalson therose. peach petalsmakingupthebodyofJesus, and petals over thework. inthepale filled She daughter bouncedaround him, sprinkling noon. He as was his tiredyoung but cheerful comune.castelraimondo.mc.it/?p=1208 castelraimondo.htm andhttp://www. http://www.infiorata.info/infiorata_ Sunday. moreinfo: EasterFor after days 60 place takes Infiorata Castelraimondo’s Flower Fest z / P hotos FESTIVAL by R v enae Blum

29 Urbino Now 2010-2011 course could improve. it will into split year Next beginner and advanced Semmerini said she levels.

v the spring and summer of 2010. No jazz jazz No the spring and summer of 2010. their concert mistake would for aficionado was it but VillageVanguard, the at night a certainly opportunity a refreshing to see an Americanhow art form is practiced in this very city. Italian a band gave one-woman A seven-man, as a capstone to a three-month recital three pianists, three A bassist, workshop. guitarists classic and a drummer played jazz tunes for the size an audience of the band. SammariniSchool Augusta called director experiment with jazz,” “an the program although jazz instructor that, and added the Lorenzo did an admirable job, Ugolini with the University of Urbino was working to make jazz courses available to university next year. students there completely The parts clearly hadn’t was interspersed coalesced -- each song about which discussion with a two-minute as members fiddled with next, to play song giving the evening a their instruments, classroom-like vibe. But the band was astonishingly polished, Despite after of practice. months just three the makeshift studio and haphazard assortment -- the of audio equipment evidentlymembers had scrounged whatever amps or instruments they owned for jazz passion -- their or could borrow and visible on was audible in their songs their faces.

OO T Urbino IN emphasized that there was something more more emphasized was something that there important at stake. “The Jazz is to attract Fano aim of bigger about jazz. people and let them know young want we music; They listen to commercial with a lot of about music to let them know values.” meticulously-organized rifled through Pedini the cartons filled with copies of Downbeat, searching main magazine of the jazz industry, for a profile written about the festival some Dozens of post-it notes peeked out ago. years up. gave But he soon the pages. from also supportsThe jazz network concerts organizesand Le throughout Marche, which brings Croatian Jazz Bridge,” “Adriatic to and sends Italians to Italy, musicians Croatia. a university of of creating dreams Pedini College of like the Berklee modern music, Music in Boston. will the university help of music “Creating He lamented he said. people understand jazz,” allthat festivalsthe of concertsand make about learning people enthusiastic to young no university program there’s – but that play to help them developnearby their talents. The too. jazz scene, Urbino has a tiny a regional CulturaleAssociazione Liceo, in ran a small workshop school, music understand one another when they play jazz.” -- Adrianno Pedini -- Adrianno Pedini one another when theyunderstand jazz.” play “Even though they don’t speak the same language, it doesn’t mean they can’t mean they can’t it doesn’t the same language, speak “Even though they don’t

Hartman century open-air theater. century open-air theater. th avid

By D By “It naturally tourism and the promotes and brings nice publicity visibility of Fano, But he said. Pedini to the city and region,” Smallof German and Dutch groups fans joined the mainlyhave Italian audiences in years. recent “Even with a language barrier, they all know barrier, “Evenwith a language John by Things’ ‘My Favorite the album “It’s important continued. Pedini Coltrane,” not just [those] [other] musicians, to promote the U.S.” from “Even though they don’t speak the same “Even though they don’t understand mean they can’t it doesn’t language, said. Pedini they jazz,” another when one play Marcus Miller, a renowned a renowned Miller, Marcus scheduledwas performto in bassist, U.S. Panama, from with musicians along 2010, Turkey. the Ivory Coast and Italy, Argentina, The festival has expanded over the years, years, The the festival has expanded over with the rising support municipal Fano’s of government. The festival, Fano Jazz by the Sea, was was the by Fano Jazz Sea, The festival, riff a on the successful established in 1993, said Adrianno Pedini, UmbriaJazz Festival, the art of the organizing group, director additional July In 2010, Jazz Network. Fano performances to be held at a villa in were and at the majestic Furlo Pesaro, nearby Reserve. StateGorge Nature A seaside festival in a pretty port town comes into its own A seaside festival in a pretty comes into town port Jazzing it Up in Fano Jazzing L A STIV FE Musicians play on a stage erected by the sea, the sea, by erected a stage on Musicians play and in a 16 Some of the world’s top jazz talent converges top jazz talent converges Some the world’s of each the busy Adriatic porton of Fano town growing a manifestation of this region’s July, in jazz. interest Urbino Now 2010-2011 30 New Wave Folkies Starat Urbino StudentFest each June,tointroduceItaliansemerging musicians. the the UniversityofUrbino’s three-nightstudentmusicfestival, Nidi D’Arac,anewwavefolkbandfromPuglia,starredat Festa delloStudente,inJune2010. The festival isstaged FESTIVAL Photos byScottBurry 31 Urbino Now 2010-2011

, Piazza is 200 meters from

Directions to Pergola then Pesaro, to train a take cities, major From the take Urbino, From Pergola. to Adriabus the Adriabus, and change buses in Fossombrone for Pergola. MUSEO DEI BRONZI DORATI For a glimpse at the four famous statues, restored bronze, visit to reveal their brilliant this museum, on Largo San Giacomo, Pergola. – a.m. 10:00 daily, Open August: and July Hours: 12:30 p.m., and 3:30 pm – 6:00 pm All other months: 10:00 am – 12:30 pm; 3:30 pm – 6:30 pm (closed Monday) Admission: 6 euro; child, group discounts available. senior citizen and Hotels & Restaurants Bed & Breakfast Il Giardino Pergola’s center, on Viale Marconi 21. www.ilgiardinobb.it Borgo Bed & Breakfast del Angeli A visitors. and locals both serves 12, Garibaldi, pizzeria and restaurant located downstairs. are www.angelidelborgo.it Photo By Hannah Nusser Hannah By Photo uffles v

, and the creation of truffle dishes and the creation visner, isner Visner Trand contemporary art section. but the town is in the mountains, Pergola so bicycles a popular form are of is flat, transportation. to several is also home famous food Pergola of the cherry such as production traditions, wine that attract tourists from around the world. the world. around that attract tourists from been making have Pergola The people of to enoteca owner according visner since 1234, Traditionally Secondo Balducci Lazzari. serveddessertwith because sweetness, its of wine with sugar mixing red visner by is made sweeter The smaller, and visciole cherries. visciole packs an extra punch. it with a leaves Its method of production technicallyis visner so content, alcohol low a cherryconsidered drink rather than a wine, It is fermented for only 40 Lazzari said. exclusively Made a small number of by days. vary. the recipes wine producers, Pergola regularly Bed and Breakfast del Borgo Angeli especially Germany, from hosts tourists, who ask to try Pergola Holland and Italy, owner TicchiStefano, said dishes, and wines of the B&B. and I am very proud “I like wines of Pergola, the “More importantly, Ticchi said. of them,” and if they like it, tourists really like this wine, really good.” mean it’s it must oftenmenus truffles. feature Pergola and truffles with is a typical, Tagliatelle dish. Pergola wildly-popular, touriststhe to see “It’s good communicating Ticchi said. with the people of Pergola,” “They themselves really want to submerge culture.” in Pergola

th

century. They’d found They’d century. th Nusser when they unearthedis what

END EE K W By Hannah By “Pergola is famous for other things, but this is famous for other things, “Pergola because the biggest it’s is the main attraction, discovery period of the Roman during the 20 The statues were restored in nearby in nearby restored The statues were since been exhibited in and have Ancona, and Pergola Italy. throughout museums wrangled ownership over Ancona for years finally triumphed in 1987, Pergola rights. larger-than-life statues are the and today up to 1,500 people per month, visited by and closely staff. museum by guarded quiet own their over preside figures The behind closed corner of the museum, doors in a temperature-controlled wooden them from to protect environment, discoloration and other imperfections. “It’s a significant discovery because a it’s group of bronzes – usually Aurelius Marcus explained Fratini. himself,” was [depicted] by was the father, “I Aurelius believe Marcus woman the of becausehead the way the of is turned.” Historians debate whether the statues were Historians debate whether the statues were or in A.D., duringmade the first centuryB.C. who is also a guide said historian Rita Fratini, which Dorati, Museo dei Bronzi at Pergola’s houses the famous figures. the Bronzi Dorati, four statues believed to Dorati, the Bronzi with Emperor family, a Roman represent at its head. Aurelius Marcus sample a famous sweetsample cherry wine See a family of jealously-guarded bronze statues, and See a family ofjealously-guarded bronze statues, Big-Time Glories Glories Big-Time Pergola: A Small Town’s Town’s A Small Pergola: In 1946, Giuseppe and Pietro Puzzini were Pietro Puzzini Giuseppe and were In 1946, hamlet in the Pergola digging in their garden of Cartoceto now considered the most significant the most bronze considered now discovery of the 20 Underscoring the city’s dedication to Underscoring dedication the city’s to the museum local treasures, promoting and of Pergola the work also features Visitors can see artists. regional Marche and tour a ancient paintings and coins, century,” Fratini said. “This is an important said. Fratini century,” discovery for art worldwide.” Urbino Now 2010-2011 32 Though of piadina. isaserving want totry ofsandwich.any sort Butwhatyou really you supply with gladly thatwill little locales to worry, by friendly asthecoastisenclosed approaches,As lunchtime there isnoreason athand. enjoy thecomforts all step into the water, to swim a little, and to you oughttobehere tosoakupthesun, to you rent can jet skis or kite surf, but in truth, are aboutatPesaro beach. Sure, ifyou sowish, surfing,cliff diving--thatis not what we no Now begin. thefuncan No snorkeling, no week, amonth, aslong asyou wish. umbrellaa day, for (at a manageable price) a it.experience asection andrent abig Pick a wayandthere oflife are multiple to ways sea. Infact, thesummer, during thebeachis waters of their petite warm the comfortable just love relaxing by water, theinhabitants clear andcrystal reefs of Pesaro life, thebeach. coral Though lacking weather. andsoul ustotheheart This brings It issummervacation, free timeinhot aswell.apply cheap, and, pretty attimes, exciting, surely PesaroI call “simple” --thoughfun, perfect, place ofmybirth, home. andmychildhood Pesaro,hour detour to a simple town called forathree-train efficient andgenerally cheap along Italy’s orhopa speedyhighways Drive STOR scott Maniscalco TheSimpleLifeinPesaro Y By Giacomo B urr y / P hotos

by -- that is not what we are about are atPesaro-- thatisnotwhatwe beach. No snorkeling, nosurfing, diving nocliff sand castle (though be awaresand castle that the all-time Now the timehascome to buildanintricate comes across assomething like “Thanks, honey.” losing itspoeticpower,though desperately reply: she will “grazie, cocco ” which, inEnglish, background and, mostimportantly, appearance, your purchase,after regardless of your age, size, ofthem,all the50-year-old even ones. Infact Pesaro beach, love her, all they andsheloves little kid on is the third to every grandmother custard. around soft dough wrapped Maria bombolone. desert:This istheperfect saccharine down thePesaro summerlong coastall selling her son, Roberto. maketheirwayThey upand her coming from far away, accompanied by isboundtocome around.Maria You hear can wait,beach umbrella andpatiently soon enough palate hasnotcome justyet. underyour back Sit tothehotsand.back And thetimetorest your a real Italianespresso before makingyour way your obligated to grab meal youAfter are nearly ofthisarea. typical cheese covered abyitems generally stracchino, awhite sausages, salameorcountlessothersucculent slices ofprosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, wholesome bread you envelop withwhich can asaflatbut couldbestbedescribed piadina dothiswondrouswill itsduejustice, entity themostexquisitenot even ofword choices CAST LES IN T HE SAND The second most important timeoftheday The second mostimportant them. overlook aspects ofPesaro, anditwould bewrong to the moonlight late atnight, there are other watersreflecting warmer soak intheeven there isnothingquiteliketakinga While andnofun). arethey overpriced flimsy plasticones from thestreet vendors; words. the intobuying (Donotbefooled -- rackets “thick” and “wood” beingthekey wooden and thick involving a tennis ball exchange ofbattilarde,friendly agame local, a orheadintothewater for back experience,foosball a donotchallenge messing around. The “no mercy” with rule daythis,waited all for andthere isno dare, have butbeadvised thattheseguys court.volleyball Attempt toplay ifyou proveboys can who’s whoon thebeach thehipyoung PesaroIn theafternoon to blame, you. warned they the water. But if you get sick, you have no one before lunch reentering three hoursafter full to defythePesaro ofhaving towait myth fivefeet high), wideandroughly 10 feet and summer, withamonstrous over construction teamone ofaseven-man aspart yours truly Pesaro record beachsandcastle wassetby Mussels on unless you have extensive (foosball),biliardino but the sunsets, some playing Enjoy thesweetest hoursas ineffect. isalways the turisti WEEKEND t he Beach

33 Urbino Now 2010-2011

v Blum , tells the group: tells the group: Carlino, del Il Resto enae By R By END EE K W the at Night Museum Alexander-Ferruccio Marcucci Pinoli di Marcucci Alexander-Ferruccio the first on a door pushes open Valfesina whichhe calls the Hotel floor of his hotel, onlyThe Palace. Alexander Museum similarity ordinaryany has to this door hotel rest looks The number. door is its room room like a piece of art. more branch a tree twist representing Brass cordons which was decorated by the door, up and down the pattern Inside the room, Valentini. Luisa Stripsthe walls, across of brass arch explodes. forming an elaborate the bed. over canopy Brass even slithers up the back of a dainty Of the ceiling like smoke. rising toward chair, Wind. “Vento.” has a title: course this room miracle 63 the is This Alexander: Hotel the of 75 different and installed designed by rooms Simon Benetton including Enzo Cucci, artists, no single theme. There’s and Gio Pomodoro. incorporating bright festive, look Some rooms Others instilla sense colors and loud patterns. a man at a like the door where of foreboding, occupant. out at the prospective glares computer is an abstract, “White Borrelli’s Domenico Room” This is not 3-D exploration of the human form. It art politely that fades into the background. its to reconsider you forcing its presence, screams suitcase. unpacking your even as you’re message Guests in this four-star establishment have politicians artists, included singers, famous including Italian motorcycle and athletes, Rossi. racer Valentino one-of-a-kind also expect one might Though the booking through a look pricessuch in a place, aengines puts them within ordinary range: “business a for is going $213; room standard room. to choose do get your You $378. suite” Pinolimodestly tells duringus elegant an is the world’s lunch that Pesaro three-course people Italian the and town, beautiful most Member of a family finest artists. the world’s in to detail shows his attention of art patrons, tie, sleek polka-dotted red a of his selection he carefullyand in the way straightens his knife and fork. collection of a brooding Out the patio, on that Alexander, sculptures red white-eyed await transport has designed, himself an artist, in Rome. to an exhibition Urbino editor of the local Giovanni Lani, newspaper but his art is the “He (Pinoli) an artist, is of a world.” vision Hotel Alexander Museum Palace Viale Trieste, 20 Pesaro Tel. 0721-34.441 http://www.alexandermuseum.it/ info: [email protected] Urbino Now 2010-2011 34 larger metropolises. Apersonal is favorite to amealhard to find inmany of Italy’s feel asmall-town of course)break offering should cover two courses, withwine–red, An innovative andinexpensive ($15to$20 meat,of pastafollowed by grilled awaityou. meals, consisting ofafirstcourse preferably taverns where orsmall full osterie several On your way, come youacross likely will expected toeatunaided. a thinbutlarge andround piethatyou are yourduring stay. you serve will Any pizzeria Classy? Not quite, butnonetheless amust-eat boiled eggsandmayonnaise. Weird? Definitely. pie consistingtopped with hard of a margherita ofPesarocity pizza, hascreated acharacteristic nineteenth century. InGioacchino’s honor, the composers ofthe one ofthegreatest classical inhabitants wasborn, Gioacchino Rossini, house where one ofthe mostfamousPesaro mosaics. Onyour way you passthevery will beautiful late Roman featuring construction delPopolo,Piazza down totheCathedral, a in 184BC. through Stroll themainsquare, the town, by theRomans, Pisaurum called originally Pass center of this ancient through the historical Once again, there’s noreason tofret. mightarise.possibility inconceivable. Yet an outsider, for that beach” inone summerday isutterly community, theideaofgetting “too much To aselfestimated80%ofthePesaro course whilegazingover Pesaro bay. thisof whitewine--all with some local Pesaro (mussels) andwash themdown cozze dinner. thefamous involving Orderanything upon, chance you undoubtedly will afish for Moloco, place Botteorany othercozy La restaurantsasIl stop inany such ofseveral languid nightlife. Headtotheshore back and You inthe andthrive remain can inthecity dinnertime. approaching: isquickly lunchtime) (after MuseumPalaceAlexander Hotel. PinoliMarcucci di Valfesina, the of owner by Alexander-Ferruccio A statue designed

35 Urbino Now 2010-2011

i Cristina 12, via Collenuccio Pandolfo Pesaro Tel: 0721 64415 eria Gelateria Pasticc Germano Alexander Museum Palace Hotel Viale Trieste 20 http://www.alexandermuseum.it/ Pesaro Tel: 0721-34441 Ristorante Moloco Pizzeria Pub Calata Caio Duilio - Molo di Levante Pesaro Tel: 0721 400395 On the beach. Lunch of two cold antipasti, and first and second courses, for 30 euros. La Botte S.r.l. Viale Trieste, 40, Pesaro Tel: 0721 67211‎ Osteria Pasqualon di Via Giordano Bruno, 37 Pesaro Tel: 0721 371108 Known for delectable beef, the buffet featuring a range of vegetables, and affordable prices. Apx. 20 euro for lunch or dinner. Hotel Majestic Viale Trieste, 80 Pesaro Tel: 0721-371900 [email protected] http://www.hotelmajesticpesaro.com/ Hotel Savoy Viale della Repubblica, 22 Pesaro Tel: 0721-33133 http://www.viphotels.it/ita/hotel-pesaro_savoy. asp cc Filippu Rimini’s beach Rimini’s does not compare to does not compare Heading northHeading straight up the coast (20 minutes 30 minutes by car, by will reach train) you the notorious city of Rimini.

v Pesaro’s. But the main objective is to find But the main objective Pesaro’s. clubsnight suitable whichin away dance to the night to a mix of Italian and foreign willthis be not you assure I music. dance of the most famous to some Home an issue. Ecu, such Ilas Bounty, Italy, in discotheques Rimini has been Altavista and Paradiso, and clubbing central for Italy since the 1970s, this day. to is blossoming the little town Pesaro, it: have So you there for its famous beach, that quietly stands out: uncharacteristic to basketball devotion hills, superb piadina and the longest soccer, over or 787 feet). pizza ever baked (240 meters, mostly forit’s famous But perfectionthe it a hectic from -- as a quiet break represents vacation. ride. And the prosciutto production there is there production prosciutto the And ride. best in Italy. among not to be neglected – it’s Historybuffs should visit the captivating A tour guide medieval village of Gradara. 14th century a real through willyou take an representing extremely kept, well castle, and important piece of history for Pesaro of the most as three towns, the surrounding the Italy, families of Renaissance powerful the Sforza and the Della Rovere, Malatesta, The Castle of Gradara there. their home made of literarywill also pique the interest types, the setting for and the storyas it’s of Paolo killed the lovers with the same Francesca, jealous husband, Francesca’s by stroke sword Gioacchino older brother, and Paolo’s Dante poetically tells their story Malatesta. “Thein Divine Comedy.” Pesaro native Giacomo Maniscalco is a journalist native inPesaro City. New York warned you. hours after lunch before reentering the water. before lunch hours after reentering the water. But if you get sick, you have no one to blame, they blame, no one to have you sick, But if get you Defy myth of wait three full having the Pesaro to Hills is a small hilltop village 50 miles he he

o t o where Simone, the Osteria dell’Artista, Simone, where t

In Slightly to the northwest, the hills that Slightly to the northwest, le colline Marchiggiane Pesaro, surround in size grow and vegetation. progressively Carpegna You’ll want to You’ll the secondexplore beauty of Pesaro, the surrounding are If you hills. rent feeling frisky, a motor scooter the coast and of several along any places from roads the cool breeze of the winding fly through up to the highest peak in Pesaro. taking you the Pesaro While decisively not mountains, of the most amazing in some hills will land you Novilara is perhaps the ancient little hamlets. the sun set over Watch most famous of these. feast a rural on as you meat-based dinner Pesaro on suggested) again strongly is once (piadina top of the walls of this Medieval village -- very where these is Ilbest of The , Giogo romantic. again $15-$20 should do the trick. The scenic perfect for a camping trip. away, than half an hour, drive will take no more is the stretch but for the athletically inclined, bike manageable perfect yet for a strenuous But I’ve saved the ultimate dining option for last. for the ultimate dining option last. saved But I’ve Luckily, whether in the central square or on or on whether in the central square Luckily, walk apart) will you the coast (just 10 minutes’ meal with a the chance to followhave your parlors, gelato of Germano’s one from cone Dei dei nettare dolce as il many proclaimed by nectar of the Gods. -- the sweet the his miniscule will to display be glad owner, with of the English language knowledge while part any world, of the visitors from his wife with and serving the food he cooks, is valid option Another in the back. mother, named after a locally- , OsteriaPasqualon proclaimed poet. END EE K W Urbino Now 2010-2011 36 Photo ByScottBurry pretended tobeinterested inotherthings. went ontwo more weeks, for excruciating people didn’t gather, much. very orchant cheer They to the financial weakness of thenation.even though the big screensAnd stayed up, as thegames day. theran failure longThe comparing papers essays of the Azzurri, all,four-time winners after “SHAME AND TEARS,” thenext admonished Repubblica initsheadline La theRome daily Slovakia,lowly too! How Italy, humiliating for champs, thedefending outinthefirst tobeknocked round– and by whole again. feet,rise totheir The spectators would andcross again. themselves Disappointments are hard scored --butwhentheAzzurri agoal, wasmade itwasasiftheworld player, theirfavorite for cheering booingtheopposingteam(andreferee!) their enthusiasm. crossed themselves; Spectators totheirknees; fell theirhandstogether, clasped the jerseys, theprayers. peoplesangtheiranthem, When it, wishedIknew Ionly soIcouldadd to then.It was exciting to be inItaly enjoy ofthe game—the effect thefull crowds, Icould finally sport,world the2010 andinUrbinoduring World Cup, we sawthatpower inaction. As a child, one it seemedto me that only man was enjoying this game. But withcontentment.clapping say. Iheard theannouncerinmymemory “GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL,” Myfatherwas towardball thenet. my fatheryelling atthetelevision, hopingthatsomehow thesoundofhisvoice would pushthe mornings,Some I woke tothe sound of thecrowd, withtheir whistles and horns. Iremembered We lovedyou anyway Arrivederci, Azzurri! by HELGA SALINAS v SP futbol is a unifying ORTS 37 Urbino Now 2010-2011 Blee in San Marche, TS OR Sant’lppolito Gabicce Mare, nvironmental Environmental Giorgio, Cupra SP . – Sara Broce y samanthaby v Grottammare, and puts on a straw puts on hat festival Civitanova Marche, Porto ontefeltro, on the third Sunday third Sunday the Montefeltro, on Festa, or watermelon del Cocomero The festival, is celebrated in Montemurlo a cocktails, with July, of half second the piano bar and watermelon a ways. dozen Duca Urbino’s Festa del honors Duke Federico in August. in Piazza in Scolpire celebrates the beauty of the stone of the celebrates the beauty sculptures seen all around Le with lectures, meetings with artists with lectures, meetings and workshops. The hat-making Montappone town of in mid-July. It’s down the beach season up and take to want you’ll where coast, Adriatic train scenic and terrific the of advantage the of many to you take will that service beaches following nicest towns. The (listed from north to awarded Blue Flag by the prestigious south) were in for the Foundation Education in 2010 (meaning they met criteria for water quality, environmental management and safety): Benedetto del Tronto Pesaro, Fano, Marotta Mondolfo, Pesaro, Fano, di Ancona Portonovo, Sirolo, Senigallia, Porto Recanati, Porto Potenza Numana, Picena, Porto San Sant’Elpidio, Marittima, The racers competed in nine stages, covering stages, nine in competed The racers Italy. around (932 miles) 1,500 kilometers eight and The includedrace 20 Italian teams, them Spain, among countries, other from Brazil and Colombia. hopes Vice Aldo Pacini GiroBio President the race will Le attention bring more Marche. cycling want to create tourism here,” “We he said. hilly terrain is an important asset Marche’s Luckily for suggested. Pacini for bike racing, to exciting hills the stunning are spectators, too. at, look More info: http://www.girobio.com/ http://www.girobio.com/ More info:

in in . The Sagra

Tortellino ant’Elpidio Jazz Sant’Elpidio in late July http:// late July in during the first celebrated for some celebrated n Mondavio in mid- ant’Angelo in Pontano in Sant’Angelo Sagra del The Ancona Jazz Festival Bike Race to the Top to the Bike Race in mid-July features children’s features mid-July in Campofilone, Pedaso in mid-August), to pizza has a spectacular open-air opera in June, in Porto San Giorgio Sant ‘Elpidio in June, in www.jazzdimarca.it. Sant ‘Elpidio

Urbino’s steep streets made a challenging made 7th steep streets Urbino’s Bio, finish line stage for the June 2010 Giro a bicycle time trial race for riders 20 aged The race climbed 30 kilometers 27. through the Le(18.6 miles) up and down hills, Marche Ducal iconic Palace. ending near Urbino’s Urbino, first visit to It was the GiroBio’s and the riders an afternoon provided of entertainment for cheering lining onlookers The passed at measured racers the barricades. a safety against accidents. precaution intervals, Marco admitted “I been better,” could have trained He’d nearly from Urbana. 23, Pascucci, months. for three mid-July http://www.anconajazz.com/it/index. mid-July and The Fano Jazz php Festival Festival a Mare each August celebrates the music of native son celebrates the August each Rossini www.rossinioperafestival.it. Giacchino A pair of jazz fests, www.fanojazznetwork.it/ offer fans two weeks weekend a also There’s jazz. of Macerata festival and August http://www. in July sferisterio.it/ Mndo Festival , and I Teatri del Porto and Minutes,” Eight theater in workshops, Juliet and with “Romeo acting like titles classes with the piazza. tree in big dramatic the readings under www.iteatridelmondo.it. all the sagre, or food festivals,Among few are as quite so fetching those devoted to pasta. The village of of Italy’s finest egg pasta, puts on the Maccheroncini dei Nazionale At August. of weekend there’s the July, early in Sagra delle Fregnacce (a pasta with a peppery dressing) is put on at Ascoli Piceno. odes to Other standout food festivals include mussels (in near Camerino, in early July) and to early July) in (Sefro, near Camerino, (Staffolo, wine regional standout the Verdiccho, in August). There’s a wild boar hunt i August http://www.mondavioproloco.it/ Photo By Samantha Blee Samantha By Photo

Cupramontana astelraimondo www. arche tourism, and with Marche tourism, and pera Festival in Pesaro Opera Festival in If to you happen visit during Fabriano, on or around June 21, with June, July and August are the hottest June, months for Le so many activities to tempt the palate and please the ear, that’s a good thing. jazz; and music classical opera, find You’ll celebrations of sculpture, theater, and sagre of dozens and solstice; summer the to range of foods: honor a staggering chickpeas, olives, pasta, trout, mussels, watermelon. a World Cup year, join the locals around a World Cup year, join the big outdoor screens, as they show of creationtheir in pride national their scarves, dresses. A homemade hats and word to the wise: never block the TV. Flower festivals Corpus blossom around Christi in the firstat C especially weekend of June, castelraimondo.sinp.net, www.comune.cupramontana.an.it , Cupra Marittima and Servigliano. The summer solstice lavishly is celebrated at music, food, crafts, days of ancient nine and markets celebrating the sun. July Urbino’s Festival in di Music Antica brings a month of concerts, drama arts. classicalpoetry showcasing and woodwinds and Musicians compete on harpsichords; there are Baroque poetry. www.fima-online.org. readings of The Rossini

Surf and Sagre SUMMER SUMMER Urbino Now 2010-2011 38 Stretching for miles,Stretching for they’ve beenprotection usedfor andpleasure Camerano The SecretCaves of built beneath the part oftown wherebuilt beneath the part most ninth century. The underground was prison Chiesa diSant’Apollinare, builtinthe beneathCamerano’sdirectly oldestchurch, An underground area prayer for islocated of buildingsonce above them. directly public, correspond tothefunctions often caves,The are ofwhich not all opentothe some 20kilometers (12.4miles). hidden underground network thatstretches Ages. to theMiddle date back form They a werewhen thecaves built, may but they massive man-made caves. No one knows Grotte diCamerano,to themysterious candles, descendsintodarkness. leadThey stone stairs,A setofeerie litby dimly todiscover.ground isunlikely that someone strolling through town above invited toexplore anunusual secret --one agency.tourism inside, Step be andyou’ll But there’s something odd aboutCamerano’s near apopularpiazza. situated agency and thetraditional tourist restaurants withtheirdoorspropped open, of thesurrounding countryside, welcoming seestunningviews you’ll Italiancity: key seems liketakingastroll through any low- Walking thestreets initially ofCamerano STOR Y By Samantha Blee / P hotos stays ataconsistentstays 14degrees C. (57 temperature of the underground labyrinth barrels for a storagecellar of wine, sincethe much more pleasantpurposes. becameThey thewar,After theGrotte were usedfor 1944. bywas liberated inJuly theAllies airraids. was thetarget ofseveral Camerano troops, andsuffered great damage, sinceit rape. The town wasoccupied by German bombs, and to protect their women from hidthere fromthe inhabitantsofcity when thefront inCamerano, waslocated WorldDuring War II, 17days during 1944, thelast year peoplehidin thecaves. wasputtothetestinThat reliability reliable fortress. (21.8 yards) intotheearth, makingthema their deepestpointplunge about20meters ofsandstone, areThey builtmostly andat caves. inhabitantshidinthem.The original ofthesolid understandingofthepurpose atleasthave now they a believe experts envelopes eachroom,Mystery though tostandagainst Napoleon’sformed laws. -agroup that society theMassoneri for One room isthoughtto beameetingplace executions out. were carried by HEATHER DO YLE worth visiting.worth alone – which makesCamerano history allowsyou living to experience masterpiece Each tunnelinthis underground families would sitin, topassthetime. show still indents from the hallways “chairs” ground. rooms extending from Small main spentbelow days ontally thewall Scratches timesofconflict andwar. during in fear the religiousofthosehiding experiences of years ago? An altarinvites you toconsider hundreds walkedinthesedampcaves Who and thisexpertly, limitedtools. withsuch beings couldcreate something thislarge, past. You mayastonished feel thathuman visitors to consider Camerano’s fascinating Today, inthistown thecaves of6,500allow were down, knocked reopening passageways. design) were oftheoriginal (which notpart ventilated.badly caves dividingthe The walls In 2008, were itwasdecidedthat the caves sheltered anentire family, wasacoatroom. as adisco. Acrannyinthewall, once which At some point, room theentrance wasused places where thesegiant barrels were kept. degrees F). mark Indentsinthewalls the OUTDOORS v 39 Urbino Now 2010-2011 Visits and tours: 6-8 euro, half price for seniors for price half euro, 6-8 tours: and Visits and children under 12. buses transport, Directions: By public public run from Ancona and Pesaro to Camerano. Info: http://www.turismocamerano.it/ o e di Cameran Visiting the Grott p.m., 4:30 Friday, p.m., 6 and p.m. 4:30 M-Th, tours. scheduled several of one join must You Hours: between 4:30 and 6 p.m. Closed on Sundays. 5:30 p.m., 6 p.m., Saturday, every half hour 7303058 Telephone: +39 071 730301 - +39 071 Urbino Now 2010-2011 40 Views andbutterflies, withasplash attheend Views Hiking theForests NearPesaro Beach ended onroad, asmall glimpse where you’ll a kindthatmade methinkofstorybooks. It gardenspassing private with wooden gates of park, San Bartolo The trail wound through inclines,a few none were unmanageable. photo opatthetop.a brief Though there were minutes to do, round trip, a stop for including then followed thecoast. Ittook about45 upalowMy one-miletwisted hill, trail and the beach and cool off inthe water afterward. great hike, area ashort for asyou return to can atthetrailhead. Bartolo map ofSan This isa oftheentrance, totheright directly anda Pesaro’s publicbeach. Therecampground is a Adriatic Sea, of abouthalfamilenorthwest hike, Itrekked nearest totheentrance tothe National Park nearPesaro. Onone June inthe4,000-acretrails Bartolo Monte San You enteramiles-long network can ofthese countryside. Adriatic Sea, others rolling through the with windingtrails, the some overlooking bottomless gorges. There are expansive parks You’ll findstreams andlakes, andseemingly Marcheofexcellenthiking. isfull Le Rural Sarah STOR Y AND PHOTOS BY Broce

Thursday from mid-June to early ThursdayAugust. from mid-Junetoearly nearby,events each as sunset concerts such and Giacomo Pandolfi. There are also regular beautiful paintingscredited toRondolino , Maria diSanta Chiesa churchwith asmall You buildings, alsovisitafew can asthe such and agriturismi, Bartolo San Colle including From thepaths, you walktosome can along eachtrail. and, sincethisisItaly, restaurants tostopat – tours andgroupopportunities camping Pesaro, office, findatourism you’ll guided park, beginson which thewestern side of along theItaliancoast. ofthe Inthispart of town, thatcurves leadssystem toatrail Another route inPesaro, on thewestern edge and anicebreak from thebuzzofbeach. on thewildroses. It’s apicturesque experience, footsteps. You mightseebutterfliesalighting from runs thesoundof aswildlife leaves rustle a wonderful forest. inthetrees; Birds chirp of besurrounded byAnd thegreenery you’ll the beach. oftheAdriatic,enjoy views panoramic and Icrestedthem whenever ahill). You also can passingon thecoastroadbike riders (Isaw Il Guardacielo,Il along thetrails. located v

by busandtrain.http://www.sibillini.net offers miles of hiking trails, some accessible comprises approximately 173,000 acres, and by castles, and see Golden eagles. The park prophetess Sibilla. Hiking here, you might the illustrious said tohavebeenhome is pass This park is draped in myths and secrets, and National Park Sibillini Mountains and http://www.parcosanbartolo.it. beach. an also is aboutahalfmilefromPesaro’spublic There’s Mare. Montegrappa, entrance to the park there. Gabicce Via Another trailhead at 61011 office, information park’s the at found be can hikes guided or office tourist the in Pesaro. Info on events andcamping trips at map park a up Pick Monte Bartolo National Park San Hiking Trails inLeMarche it/riserva.statale.gola.furlo/Epun.php http://www.parks. boundaries. park within families. The town ofFossombromeislocated owned and fortress byMalatesta geological including sights, the remainsofa fly across the gorge. You’ll pass historical and hiking than for taking pictures This of park near Acqualunga eagles is less suitable as for they de Furlo Naturale StataleRiserva Gola http://www.parcosimone.it Itineraries can be found on the park’s in website: located and botanicgardens.Entrancesare park, a wildlife find also You’ll watersheds. high as 1,415 meters, and valleys merge into Peaks in this 977-acre national park reach as SimoneeSimoncello ParkSasso iratoio, CantonieraMiratoio, andothercities. OUTDOORS

Montefeltro

Thank you, you, Thank Urbino! 41 Urbino Now 2010-2011 is a photojournalist , though born in , is a senior at New , a senior at Bowling a senior at Bowling , is a history major at the arez ughlin a hanie Todaro hanie harine Su harine p t e elga Salinas elga a sser Nu Hannah riana McL Ariana H K St Green State University, is a small town girl, is a small girl, town StateGreen University, a student journalist a sister, an animal lover, time, ever If she has spare and aspiring author. or watching writing, you’ll her reading, find She playing loves with The Office. reruns of sharing enjoys and Louie and Luke, her dogs, tight- her foodwith laughs of lots and good knit friends and family. She Kentucky University. Western who studies at blogs at www.arianamclaughlin.com She works Los Angeles. University of California, and belongs for the student magazine La Gente She hopes to the campus Folklorico. dance group that will allow her to travel, work to find a line of and languages. cultures different and explore York University, where she majors in journalism where University, York A and minors in Italian. and cultural aesthetics, aims she travel, and arts, fine fashion, of lover A diehard writerto be a freelance and stylist. Manhattanite who has interned at Surface, to take she was happy , and Self , Details VOGUE, of in the beautiful surroundings and relax a break countryside.the Marche feels lucky to Chicago and raised in Los Angeles, She hopes to all the United States. over lived have a country of which she in Italy, also live day one She earned a master’s recently became a citizen. University York New in journalism from degree she works where in L.A., lives and now in 2008, firm. at an entertainment representation Nebraska Nebraska freelance is a graduated from graduated from , of Malverne, New York, York, New of Malverne, , is a senior at Quinnipiac studies at Colorado State studies at Colorado State lee majors in English at the majors in English at the oyle Anderson TMAN um ha B ha her her her D her t t ea ea avid HAR avid enae Bl enae Samant H H D arah Broce Sarah R writer who lives in Raleigh, North Carolina. She North Carolina. writer in Raleigh, who lives the University of North Carolina graduated from Wilmington- in marketing with concentrations She her time in Urbino loved writing. creative and and Le forward and looks Marche visiting again. University, where he majors in journalism and minors where University, He is a staff writer for Quadnews . in political science. and web with Save the Children’s net and works in development He is interested social media team. international law World, Third and poverty in the a fabulous time working had Dave and string theory. and getting with the interns and staff of Urbino View , of Urbino. the people to know University. Loyola University recently graduated from she studied communication where Maryland, After studying and with a focus in journalism. and she caught bug, the travel in Europe, working journalist. travel a professional to become aspires University of Nebraska-Lincoln. She has She has University of Nebraska-Lincoln. written and for The Daily Nebraskan and interned at Prairie Day magazine, Wedding finding She photography, loves . Schooner and watching the sun set sales, random book the hillsover of Urbino. Urbino! she where Loyola University Maryland, specializationa with communication, in majored She is in journalismart. in studio and a minor in journalism and public earning her master’s Washington, Americanaffairs at University in and Samantha has fallen with Italy, in love DC. favoriteher to country determinedis return to as often as possible.

Thank you, studentsUniversity from came together States aroundUnited the intern at this magazine. in Urbino in the summer of 2010 to their hosts! teachers and to their They their thanks extend Hiking the Forests Near Pesaro Beach Near Pesaro Forests Hiking the Views at the end with a splash and butterflies, Urbino Now 2010-2011 42 more and nutritious economical.” isfresher food andtastesbetter,because is the seaof Trieste. with undulatingwavesdecorated inspired by freddo glasses, caffe designedcrystal artist set inspired by hisfilms. One year, a young was commissioned tocreate asix-cup2009 coffee.Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodovar of thehumanbodyinvolved indrinking Lieshout’s systems interpretationofthefour and customers. In2005, itfeatured Joepvan for purveyors create cups of coffee a series Each year, commissionsto an artist Illy limitededitionsets. coffee the coveted Illy expectations. Pompili possessessamplesof encourage shopstomeetcompany beans. visitsfrom representatives Surprise of Illy, Italy’s sells mostrespected which coffee You alittleaboutthemethods alsolearn can by photographer. alocal Budweiser signshangnearphotographs taken glass chandelier; and vintage Coca-Cola hangs from the ceiling, next to anantique piece of metalwork by a young Cagli artist is on display, besideold: new atremendous tables,comfortable or at the bar. art Local orwineatsmall gatherover coffee Guests prosciutto. vinegars; beautifulpastries; fresh and cheeses by Pompili herself. There are wines, oils and chosen havestore beenmeticulously andcafe inthefrontoffer room ofthelong, narrow intimate shopyou seetoday. The products on office. Ittook work itintotheelegant, toturn Alimentare openedin1999, tax inaformer RENOVA T ING continued from page from 24 continued v the bad, theoh-my-God.” say, ‘Well, home’ back … now thisishome. because You have tobeready ofit–thegood, all for “We justwantedtodosomething different,” said. Ashley “You can’t makeamove likethisand neighbors. nowfeelathome,They havingmade thetransitionfrom couple” “the American tojust one ofthe peachesandcream,”not all Jason said. itisagood life,”“But added. Ashley This come-as-it-may attitudehashelpedthemsucceed.“You have totakethe good andthebad; its intothecity, toamarket trip property encouragevisitorstobeprepared they spontaneous for days. toarrange regional fortheirguests.activities The owners try From hunt ontheneighbor’s atruffle clientele, hegets more satisfaction from creating simpledisheswithhomegrown ingredients. Despite havingworked atrenowned restaurantsasDean&Deluca, such celebrity andserving There isnomenu, andguestsenjoy seasonal dishes, made withfive ingredients orless.typically Their motto:“Be ready to muddy feet.”your expansive views of the have hilly landscape. premises, the on grown produce after casa.htm http://www.vallenuova.it/en/locanda/ + 0722330303 Pesaro eUrbino-LeMarche Sagrata diFermignano La Cappella,14-61033 Locanda dellaLocanda Valle Nuova Marche inLe Agriturismi http://www.valledelcandigliano.it/ +072.2317663 Urbania, PesaroeUrbino Loc. Candigliano,8-61049 Valle Candigliano Del Photo ByHeatherAnderson v

http://www.valguerriera.it/ +39.333.4648720 61406 Piobbico,PesaroeUrbino Ca’Licozzo Agriturismo http://www.valguerriera.it/ +0722.986489 61042 -Apecchio,PesaroeUrbino ValledelCandigliano Valguerriera http://www.latavolamarche.com/ +331.525.2753 61046 Piobbico,PesaroeUrbino Via CandiglianoLocalita’Ca’Camone & Cooking School La Tavola Marche Agriturismo continued from page from 21 continued 43 Urbino Now 2010-2011 v continued 19 from page

from an elderly an ago. from years mastro currently attending son, He hopes his own will a technical institute for papermaking, his work. continue is traditionally a very Papermaking secretive of. fiercely proud its devotees are one art, “He likes to teach to his Luigino different. is Crocetti like to teach to all,” but doesn’t son, “They (the papermakers) are laughing. said, difficult for them to show It’s very jealous. touristsall the secrets.” within 50 miles of lived if you Indeed: a fine of 50 faced you in the 1430s, Fabriano ducats roughly – the price of a very desirable – for or teaching the making paper slave Local Piero mastro else. skills to someone di Stefano a 100 ducat faced fine if he failed or his craftto pass on or apprentice, to a son else. taught it to anyone bulk of paper is produced the vast Today, embedded in Watermarks mechanically. not computers, by created paper money are filigranisti meticulously sewing the pattern hand. mesh by a wire on mind the technological Luigi doesn’t touch the but can’t quicker, It’s advances. is there “Here, quality paper. of handmade a niche for people who want personalized regularly He for fills orders he says. paper,” even stationary, personal invitations, wedding paper with designs the customer watermarked he’ll knock friends, down good For created. the price. physically – work rewards of such The taxing but small, as it is – are and unglamorous very“I like my work because much special. it afterI pull the material water, of the out “It feels Luigi said. cloth,” feels like woven like touching cotton.”

v v continued 11 from page PAPER Where to Get FABRIANO $130. to $13 for online, and stores, art many at available is paper watercolor famous Fabriano’s and euro, 1.5 as little as for paper watermarked sells Watermarks and Paper of Museum The drawing pads for 1.6 to 13 euro. http://www.museodellacarta.com He belongs to the National Order of to the National He belongs as all Italian journalists must. Journalists, editor or as a reporter, works who Anyone to in order publisher in Italy be accepted must in those capacities. be legally work to allowed Though the unnecessary Lani considers Order with constitutional -- he believes it conflicts -- a referendum of speech provisions freedom aimed at abolishing it recently failed. attitude inside all this Machiavellian “There’s Lani joked. of us,” Like its counterparts in the United States, Carlino for is looking ways del to Il Resto world in increasingly financiallystay viable, The paper is testing the web. by dominated out a new business model to keep earning money for its content. are and the printversion web page “The paper’s in- Longer, Lani said. separatetwo entities,” depth stories reserved are for the print edition. is behind a pay version the electronic And been so far Italians have Interestingly, wall. he said. willing for to pay it, LaniDuring colleagues, a lunch with some and takes short discretely checks his phone, After about an hour he apologizes and sayscalls. runhe must -- a story and he must is breaking coverage. backget to the office to coordinate minutes, they were saying good day, telling day, saying good they were minutes, helloand to say behind the buoys me to stay to Obama home. when I got sat waited for an hour, have I would home, At one and stood on a gurneyon for another hour, Here, to pay. waiting foot fora further hour, hourI walked out of the hospital less than an paying and without a cent. after arrived, I had And your, your, And . Sharp. But delicious Sharp. . cozze continued 9 from page “It was a shell – a mussel shell,” the intern said “It shell,” was a shell – a mussel “The knowingly. of stitches, instead The intern told me that, Within five use a kind of bio-glue. they’d The man spoke English and translated English my man spoke The doctors gently as three story to the doctor, cleaned my cut. with spaghetti.” Nice. Now they’ll think I’m a soggy, dirty they’ll Now a soggy, think I’m Nice. to attention too dumb to pay American who’s buoys. I sat, feeling seawater from my suit absorbing feeling seawater from I sat, into the paper. “Si, sit,” said the man. sit,” “Si, He led me to a medicalto me led He to me told and office Still bathing suit, in my wet the gurney. sit on my pants on just thrown I’d I was reluctant; without and shirt and limped off the beach, changing. I followed the man in blue scrubs. The blue The the man in blue scrubs. I followed of his outfit matched the blue of the ocean. sliced up my foot. I’d where “Doyle? Heather Doyle?” I heard again. I heard “Doyle? Heather Doyle?” I heard a man’s voice behind me utter a word behind me utter a word voice a man’s I heard think But I didn’t “Doyle.” that sounded like for 10 just there been I’d since me, meant he’d minutes. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, and the It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon, was quiet and nearlyemergency room empty. I sat in the waiting room trying room waiting in the sat I figure to back in to my room someone to get out how to find my belongings Urbino to hunt through possibly do anything They couldn’t my card. especially since I imagined, without the card, I was a foreigner. Si. write name? Si. “Could you your and birth date?” address Your come si dice? “Ahh...okay,” said the nurse. She disappeared said the nurse. “Ahh...okay,” with a and returned behind the desk again, sheet of paper and a pen. SDo you dreamtu about being a foreignd corresp yondent?

MediaCome study & report in Italy, France or Turkey this summer!

ASummer 2011broad Institute for Education in International Media URBINO, Italy Students study international reporting, (June 9 - July 7, ‘11) language and media skills, and create Multimedia journalism a website (or print magazine) about the community. Go to inArmagh.net, inUrbino. URBINO Italy , net, inPerpignan.net and inCagli.net to (June 9 - July 7, ‘11) see past ieiMedia student projects. Create a magazine PROGRAM COST: $4,995 plus airfare for PERPIGNAN, France 3 undergraduate credits (also available as (June 23 - July 23, ‘11) a noncredit internship). Includes housing Multimedia journalism at all sites and meals in Urbino.

ISTANBUL, Turkey APPLICATION DEADLINE: Feb. 1, 2011. (Summer ‘11 - Dates TBA) Late applications will be considered International Reporting on a space-available basis. For more information, go to ieimedia.com.