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Argyll's Highlands, Or, Maccailein Mor And

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Argyll's Highlands, Or, Maccailein Mor And •,''> 1 ;'' ».?>:' <: " ,l : '>- To htS - - ' ria^^MM5il4S*H)B« ft. It+Q.O/ fa /St ARGYLL'S HIGHLANDS. V Argyll's Highlands: OR MacCailein /Aor and the Lords of Lorne; WITH TRADITIONARY TALES AND LEGENDS OF THE COUNTY OF ARGYLL AND THE CAMPBELLS AND AACDONALDS. BY CUTHBERT BEDE, Tartan land'' Author of " Glencreggan: or a Highland Home in Cant ire" ; "A Tour in " The White Wife, and other Western Highland Stories"; etc., etc. EDITED BY JOHN MACK AY, Editor, "The Celtic Monthly". { If - % 8 V\ 6 " > ?9§6 GLASGOW : JOHN MACKAY, "CELTIC MONTHLY" OFFICE, I BLYTHSWOOD DRIVE. 1902. g) c I) t c <t t c b WITH THE RESPECTS OF THE EDITOR, TO His Grace, John Duke of Argyll, and of Largie, J. Ronald Moreton Macdonald, Esquire WORTHY REPRESENTATIVES IN KINTYRE OF THE ANCIENT FAMILIES OF CAMPBELL AND MACDONALD, WHOSE NAMES ARE SO CLOSELY ASSOCIATED WITH THE HISTORIC AND LEGENDARY LORE OF THAT DISTRICT. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from National Library of Scotland http://www.archive.org/details/argyllshighlands1902bede " PREFACE. This volume was written thirty years ago, and its publication at this late date probably requires some explanation. The author of the work, " Cuthbert Bede (otherwise the Rev. Edward Bradley of Grantham), during his summer sojourns in Kintyre, was so impressed with the inexhaustible stores of historical and legendary lore which were then available, that he decided to collect as many as possible of these romantic tales, with a view to publication. He amassed a great deal of valuable information, much of which was preserved in his delightful work, " Glen- creggan : or a Highland Home in Cantire," published in 1861. A large portion, however, was reserved, along with the results of subsequent labours in the same prolific fields, for a further and more exhaustive work, "Argyll's Highlands," which is now in the reader's hands, and which will be found to treat of almost every topic of interest to Kintyrians. The manuscript was completed, ready for publication, but before it reached the press the gifted author died, and the MS. was evidently put aside and dispersed along with his literary effects. After a lapse of nearly thirty years the MS. came into my possession, by purchase, from an English bookseller. A careful perusal of its contents satisfied me that I had acquired a work of the greatest possible interest to Highlanders— an opinion shared by several literary Kin- tyrians who read the manuscript. Kintyre is not so richly abundant in its literature that it could afford to lose such an attractive volume, so I decided to publish it. Such, briefly, is the history of the MS. which so curiously came into my possession. Kintyre has, in some respects, altered very greatly during the past thirty years, consequently many objects and matters described or referred to in the following pages required at least an explanatory note. I have taken the liberty of referring to some of these points in the Appendix, and of adding a quantity of additional informa- tion which may not be out of place. Indeed, these notes soon became so voluminous that I realised that nothing less than a fresh volume would suffice to contain them, so I had to make them as brief as the subjects treated of would admit. Highland sentiment has become somewhat aggressive since this work was written, and today no Gael would countenance the use of "MacCallum More" for the correct Gaelic designation, "MacCailein Mbr." After careful consideration, however, I felt that I had better leave the term as I found it, especially as the author explains his reasons for using it on the first page. "Cantire," also, is not used now: Kintyre is the invariable spelling. While I took the liberty of correcting many references in the volume, there were others, relating particularly to genealogical matters, which I decided to leave as I found them, although they may provide the reader with material for discussion. " Argyll's Highlands " covers a wide field, but it is a fact that there is no part of the Western Highlands which presents so many attractions to the historian and Vlll. PREFACE. antiquary as the district of Kintyre ; and, curiously, although such a wealth of material is ready at hand, Kintyre has produced few local historians. The only native who ever made a pretence to the dignity of historian was Peter Macintosh, a schoolmaster, who in 1861 published a small volume entitled "History of Kintyre;" but although it contains a variety of miscellaneous information, it in no way answers the requirements of a history. The Rev. Donald Kelly, M.A., Southend, left many MSS. relating to Kintyre, but they are not available for convenient reference ; parts only of these have appeared in the local newspapers, and in the pages of the Celtic Monthly. It has been left to " outsiders " to produce the best books on Kintyre. "Cuthbert Bede" in his "Glencreggan: or a Highland Home in Cantire," and "The White Wife ; with other Stories, Supernatural, Romantic, and Legendary," has, by implication, shown what a native might do, if he only took the trouble to even note down the Ceilidh stories which he heard told round the winter fire. Captain T. P. White's "Archaeological Sketches in Kintyre" is a monument of patient research, and yet it is far from exhaustive. The MacDonald historians in the recently pub- lished "Clan Donald" give a great deal of reliable information relating to the MacDonalds of Isla and Kintyre, the MacAlisters, and other septs of the great Clan Donald ; but, really, the scores of sources of valuable information which are still available have never been properly searched, and a very interesting volume could be written on Kintyre, treating of its history, and the part, too often tragic, played in it by the leading territorial families—the MacDonalds, MacAlisters, MacEachrans, Campbells, MacNeills, Mackays, and others. Such reliable works as the "Parochiales Scotiae," "Register of the Privy Council," "Calendar of State Papers," Statistical Accounts, etc., are worth consulting: while books of another class, like "The MacDonnells of Antrim," "The Book of Islay," "Thanes of Cawdor," "Last MacDonalds of Islay," " Records of Argyll," " West Highland Tales," contain a great deal of useful information relating to Kintyre. There are also a number of valuable registers and other MS. volumes preserved in the Register House, Edinburgh, where they may be consulted at any time with profitable results ; and no doubt the papers of some of the old families are still in existence. That much can still be done in an antiquarian direction was evidenced lately by a little investigation which I did on my own account last summer. In con- sulting some ancient bonds and charters relating to the Lords of the Isles and Kintyre, I noticed that Sir James MacDonald signed himself "of Simerby" and " Master of Kintyre," and dated several important documents from that spot. (See pages 2S2 and 286 of this volume.) I felt quite convinced that there must have been a MacDonald fortress at Simerby, which is only about three miles from Campbel town, but no one, either in Kintyre or belonging to it, to whom I spoke on the sub- ject, ever heard of such a castle. In August last, along with my friend, Professor Duncan MacEachran of Montreal, who is keenly interested in Kintyre history and antiquities, I paid a visit to Simerby to try and locate the site of the stronghold. There being a similarity in the positions of most of the MacDonald fortresses, I had no hesitation in selecting the most probable spot for such an erection —a bold headland. Before long we laid bare the dressed stones of the foundations, the whole outline of PREPACK. ix. the building being quite distinct, although covered with turf. The walls were very thick, showing that the building must have been of considerable importance. Without doubt this was the residence of Sir James MacDonald, and the spot where he imprisoned his father, Angus MacDonald, after the burning of Askomil House. I have not met any native of the district who had ever suspected that a castle had once been there. That Kintyre was strongly held by the MacDonalds is apparent from the chain of castles which they built along the coast, within sight of each other. Near this spot there are no less than five—at Saddell, Simerby, Askomil, Castle Hill, and Kilkerran, the last three overlooking Campbeltown Loch. It is remarkable that two distinct and far separate historical epochs are illus- trated by the antiquarian remains in this locality. On the high hill-tops, frowning on the sea, are the ruins of many round towers, some of them, especially that on Cnoc Scalbert, near Campbeltown, being of immense size; while below, on the sea-shore, perched usually on a headland, we find the sites of the strongly-built castles of the lordly race of the Isles. I was much struck by the interesting object-lesson which these relics of antiquity afford. There are many friends who have assisted me in the preparation of this work, to whom I now tender my sincere thanks Particularly should I desire to express my indebtedness to those distinguished sons of Kintyre : Mr. Duncan Mackinnon, chairman of the British India Steam Navigation Company, London ; and Professor Duncan M. MacEachran of Montreal. I have also to thank Captain Hector Mac- Neal of Lossit and Ugadale ; Major MacAlister of Glenbarr ; Colonel Macleod of " " Saddell ; Mr. Henry Whyte, the well-known Fionn of Celtic literature ; Mr. John MacConnal, Liverpool ; Mr. R. M. Kelly-Robertson, Meikleleur ; Mr. Andrew Mac- William, Glasgow ; Miss Jane Andrews, Campbeltown ; Mr.
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