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Onions Allium Cepa Onions Allium cepa Like its Allium cousin garlic, a gastronomic life without onions is nearly unimaginable. Few vegetables have so many versatile personalities and are equally good sautéed, baked, braised, roasted, stuffed, steamed, grilled, and of course, deep-fried. The pungent, distinctive flavor of onions melds well with so many ingredients, both flesh and vegetable, that this bulb is truly a workhorse in kitchens around the world. Do not confuse onions with other members of the large Allium family; although they may seem similar at first glance, shallots, leeks, ramps, green onions, garlic, chives, and garlic chives all have varying complexities and potencies of flavor that profoundly affect finished dishes, and they should not be used interchangeably. Onions themselves come in diverse forms and degrees of pungency. Farming them can be surprisingly difficult, as they grow slowly, need to be kept free of weeds during their long juvenile period, and can be quite fickle, sometimes going to seed without ever actually forming their bulbs. As many farms know, just because onions did well one year in a certain field doesn’t ensure success the next, so farmers often grow several varieties at a time to help hedge their bets. If you see a beautiful, well-formed onion in your CSA box or on the farmers market table, rejoice! CSA farms grow many different types of onions. They generally fall into one of the following categories, listed here in the order of their seasonal appearance: Green Onions or Scallions These are actually regular onions that haven’t grown up yet; they are slim, green, very immature plants with a delicate flavor, best used raw or in dishes involving brief cooking (see their chapter on pages 225–231 for more information). Spring-Summer Onions (includes Bunching Onions) As their name suggests, these onions are typically available between March and August. They have a delicate flavor and equally delicate, thin skins and thus are not suited for long storage—some cultivars will last for only a few weeks. They come in yellow, red, or white varieties. Cooking Tip To help lessen or rid the scent Pearl, Stewing, or Boiling Onions (includes Cipolline) of onions on your hands, These little onions come in a variety of shapes and colors (including white, yellow, and red), but common to all is their compact size—less try washing them with than 2 inches in diameter. They are actually regular onions that stay small salt or lemon juice. thanks to being grown in very tight quarters and picked early. They are Rubbing your fingers on a ideal for stewing, braising, boiling, roasting, and pickling. stainless steel surface (like a spoon or even a soap-sized Sweet or Mild Onions (includes Walla Walla, Vidalia, Sweet Spanish, and Bermuda) steel block made just for These onions tend to be exceptionally sweet, juicy, and mild, which this purpose) also helps. The CSA Farm Cookbook Winter — Onions 551 “The onion and its satin comes from their low sulfur content (about half that of an ordinary yel- wrappings is among the most low onion). These types are best for eating raw or lightly cooked, as their beautiful of vegetables and delicate flavor dissipates when cooked too long. They have thin skins, is the only one that represents must be refrigerated, and are not suitable for long storage. the essence of things. It can be said to have a soul.” Fall-Winter Onions These onions come from the same plants as the spring-summer ones, but — Charles Dudley Warner, are left in the ground a few weeks longer to build their flavor and size; My Summer in a Garden they’re typically available between August and May. They have much thicker skins and a lower water content, and thus have a much longer shelf life than spring-summer onions. They come in yellow or white varieties. History Precisely where humans ate their first onions remains a matter of some dispute. Several wild species exist, and these were probably foraged by ancient peoples long before domestication occurred. The first known record of them is in Mesopotamia. The ancient Egyptians valued onions not only as food but as cur- rency, for the pyramid builders were partially paid with these aromatic vegetables along with garlic. Onions quickly spread throughout the rest “There is in every cook’s opinion of Europe and were often associated with the lower classes, who depend- No savoury dish without an onion: ed on them as a staple in their frugal diet. But lest your kissing should be spoiled Although the United States has several native wild species, nearly all The onion must be thoroughly boiled.” of the onions eaten and cultivated today are descended from specimens brought from the Old World and planted in Massachusetts in the mid- — Jonathan Swift, 1600s. Irish satirist and writer Nutrition A tidbit that may come in handy at your next cocktail trivia party: A 1-ounce cup of onions contains 20 percent of an adult’s daily require- ment for chromium. Onions also have vitamins C and B6, dietary fiber, manganese, molybdenum, tryptophan, folate, and potassium. A single medium onion contains 44 calories. As with other members of the Allium family, the chromium and sulfurous compounds in onions may have beneficial effects against heart disease, diabetes, and high blood cholesterol. Season Commercially, onions are widely grown and in season year-round. But green and small bunching onions typically make their appearance at CSAs and farmers markets in the spring and summer, whereas larger bulb onions are at their peak in the late summer, fall, and even winter months. Fall-winter onions can be a substantial part of winter CSA shares. Selection For More Information When choosing any type of onion, look for fat, firm specimens with no signs of shriveling, sliminess, soft or dark spots, or moisture at the neck, National Onion Association which could signal decay. Onions past their prime also may be sprout- www.onions-usa.org ing. (Although they are still edible, their flavor may be off.) 552 Winter — Onions Bounty from the Box Storage “If you hear an onion ring, Cured storage onions (onions that are partially dried for long storage) can answer it.” be kept in a wire hanging basket or a perforated container with a raised — Anonymous base so that air can circulate freely underneath. They keep best in an area like a basement, root cellar, or other place with the proper cool tempera- ture and lack of humidity (for more information, see “Preserving the Bounty” on page 611). For the best flavor, mature onions (including pearl or cipolline onions) should not be stored in the refrigerator but at room temperature. Green and bunching onions should be kept tightly wrapped in a paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper, as they can wilt and spoil quickly. Do not store onions next to potatoes; the former produces gases that will hasten the spoilage of the latter. Also avoid storing them with apples, celery, and pears, as they will absorb one another’s odors. Cut onions should be wrapped very tightly (aluminum foil is quite effective) or kept in an airtight container and used within a couple of days, as they oxidize quickly and lose flavor and nutrients. Trimming and Cleaning To prepare onions, trim about ¼ to ½ inch from both ends, but avoid cutting off the root stub entirely, as it keeps the onion from falling apart. Cut a slit in the outer skin and peel off this first layer. Now your onion is ready for slicing into thin rounds or wedges, or for chopping. Steaming and Boiling Onions can be quickly steamed as a side dish on their own. Cut large on- ions into ½-inch-thick rounds or quarter them into wedges, place them over a steamer rack, add aromatic herbs such as rosemary or oregano branches to the steaming water, and steam for 15 to 25 minutes, depend- ing on the size of the onion, or until they become tender. To boil onions, cut off the very ends, remove just enough of the outer layers to eliminate the tough skins but not so much that they fall apart, and place them in a pan, covering with water. Boiling times will vary widely, depending on the size of the onion, but it will be around 10 to 20 minutes. Avoid overcooking, and boil just until tender. Drain and serve with melted butter and seasonings. Stir-Frying and Sautéing One of the most common ways to prepare onions is sautéing or stir-fry- ing. (Indeed, many of the recipes in this book begin with sautéing on- ions.) Preheat oil or butter in a pan over medium-high heat, slice or chop the onions thinly, and sauté until the onions turn limp and begin to turn translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. If you want to use the onions for a quiche or as a filling in another dish, cook them slowly on lower heat; they will caramelize and develop a much richer flavor. Baking and Roasting “The onion is the truffle of the poor.” Onions take to roasting like a duck takes to water. Keep their skins on, as they will prevent the onions from drying out. Cut the root ends down so — Robert J. Courtine, that they have a flat surface to stand on, and rub the outside with a little French gourmet The CSA Farm Cookbook Winter — Onions 553 oil. Prick them with a fork to allow steam to escape, and pour a little oil No More Tears or butter on the bottom of a baking pan to prevent scorching.
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