Transvestite Knights: Men and Women Cross-Dressing in Medieval Literature

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Transvestite Knights: Men and Women Cross-Dressing in Medieval Literature - 1 - | K e r k h o f Transvestite Knights: Men and Women Cross-dressing in Medieval Literature Debbie Kerkhof 3730387 Spring 2013 Supervisor: Dr. Paul Wackers - 2 - | K e r k h o f Table of Contents Introduction P. 3 Chapter 1: A Brief History of Clothing P. 6 Chapter 2: Historical Sources P. 17 Chapter 3: Cross-dressing Knights: Men P. 43 Chapter 4: Comedic Female Cross-dressing Knights P. 76 Chapter 5: Serious Female Cross-dressing Knights P. 96 Chapter 6: Final Comparisons P. 134 Appendix P. 145 Bibliography P. 147 - 3 - | K e r k h o f Introduction: Cross-dressing to deceive was frowned upon in medieval society, and was a topic of Church criticism by some very notable medieval thinkers and churchmen, yet it often found its way into literature. Despite the criticism behind cross-dressing in the medieval period, women masquerading as men and men dressed as women were present in reality as well as in medieval literature. There are tales of transvestite saints hiding in monasteries in order to escape persecution, and men disguising themselves as women for amusement or to get closer to women for sexual encounters. In reality, cross-dressing could be a great sin, but its inclusion in the plot of several medieval texts seems to show a disconnect between the medieval reality and the medieval imagination. Transvestite characters could be lauded and gain honour in their cross- dressing, yet in reality these characters would have been shunned and deemed as sinners, if moral and secular laws are taken into account. By looking at characters in French, German, and one English text from the 12th to the 15th centuries, it becomes clear that there were instances in which cross-dressing could be justified, as long as certain criteria were met. By understanding the medieval views of clothing, of sexuality, and the importance of intent, cross-dressing in medieval literature can be viewed as a positive aspect of medieval life, rather than the negative sin that Church criticism made it out to be. In this thesis, I will look at mainly French and German texts from the 12th to the 15th centuries which deal with the subject of cross-dressers in the decidedly masculine domain of the knight. There are many tales of cross-dressing, particularly of women, but the concept of men dressing as women while jousting, and women dressing as knights, brings up several questions about the clothes, what it meant to be male and female, and how cross-dressing could be viewed on the tournament field. The texts that will be studied are In the Service of Ladies by Ulrich von - 4 - | K e r k h o f Liechtenstein, Le Morte d’Arthur by Thomas Malory, Berengier au Long Cul, Der Borte by Dietrich von der Glezze, Le Roman de Silence by Heldris of Cornwall, and Yde et Olive. All of these texts come from three major parts of Europe, and are either in Old French, German, or Middle English. Church criticism from individuals such as Bernard of Clairvaux and Saint Jerome seems to indicate that the individuals cross-dressing in these texts were sinning against God, but a closer study reveals that there were instances in which cross-dressing could not only be tolerated but result in higher honour for the individual in medieval texts. These texts also reveal more about how clothing in particular was viewed and about the power of clothing to deceive, but also about the importance of intention behind cross-dressing. If the intent is noble, it is more likely that the cross-dresser will be accepted despite his or her actions. There are several other aspects of cross-dressing that arise from the study of these texts, such as the importance of hair and facial features when it came to cross-dressing, as well as the difference between how men could cross-dress as compared to women. Women tended to need more elaborate plots to deceive, and in none of the texts studied did a woman cross-dress to amuse others, but always with the ulterior motive of escaping sin or fixing a marriage. Men, however, could use cross-dressing as a jest and still be lauded with honour. The authors’ and narrators’ approaches to how the cross-dressed individual is sexed is also an important aspect of these texts, as it reveals more about medieval gender as well as the attributes that are distinctly seen as male or female in the medieval world. In the first chapter of this thesis, I give a brief introduction to the importance of clothing in the medieval period and discuss how clothing became symbolic of identity, which explains how cross-dressing could be viewed negatively as it was essentially a way to change a person’s identity completely. Clothes could indeed make a man due to the importance of their - 5 - | K e r k h o f symbolism. In the second chapter, I will look at certain primary sources that deal with cross- dressing and give an introduction to how it was approached in medieval reality. This also includes historical examples of cross-dressers and how their cross-dressing was viewed. In particular, the criticism of Church theologians such as Bernard of Clairvaux and Saint Jerome will be studied. The historical examples that are brought up in this section include the chronicle of Henry Knighton, an eyewitness account of a joust by Philip of Navarre, documentation of a court case of a cross-dresser, and a brief look at Joan of Arc’s trial. The third chapter deals with knights cross-dressing as women in In the Service of Ladies and Morte D’Arthur and explains how male cross-dressing was achieved and how it was approached. In the fourth chapter, I begin to deal with women who cross-dressed as knights, looking specifically at women who used their cross-dressing in order to fix their marriages, which resulted in a comedic view of cross-dressing that seems closer to the light-hearted way that men often cross-dressed. The texts studied in depth are Berengier au Long Cul and Der Borte. The fifth chapter looks at women who cross- dressed for an extended period of time in Le Romance de Silence and Yde et Olive. These two texts approach cross-dressing in a more serious manner than the previous texts, often invoking questions of theology and philosophy as a result of the characters’ successes as men despite being woman. In the final chapter I bring up similarities and differences that all the texts have and discuss how comparing them gives insight into the importance of clothing, gender, and intention behind cross-dressing. - 6 - | K e r k h o f Chapter 1 A Brief History of Clothing The history of clothing throughout the medieval period was varied and rich, and clothing became a focus of Church and secular criticism. This was in part due to the universality of clothing itself, but also to its importance in trade and in society. While clothing was a necessity of existence in most medieval European societies, on par with food and shelter, clothing can easily move from a necessity to a luxury when it becomes more exclusive. Christopher Berry lists clothing as one of the four essential needs, but points out that these needs become a luxury when “wants . specialize and particular the need”.1 High quality fabrics and specialized items of clothing elevated the status of clothing from a mere necessity. From the early medieval period to the end, the rise of the cloth industry and the emergence of what today is called “fashion” had a varied yet dramatic impact on how people dressed, not only throughout the classes but also in different countries. Looking at the history of clothing in the medieval period is a way to understand how clothing permeated many aspects of human life, eventually making it an important plot point in many examples of medieval literature, some of which will be discussed below. Medieval clothing was at the beginning of the period mostly functional. In the 9th, 10th, and 11th centuries, medieval clothing was loose fitting, allowing the wearers to move freely as they went about their daily tasks.2 Wool was the most common material for outer clothing due to its warmth and availability, though linen was also quite common. Various accessories and layers were used for functionality. Those working in the fields were more likely to wear layers, as they 1 Berry, Christopher. The Idea of Luxury: A Conceptual and Historical Investigation. New York: Cambridge University Press, 1994. P. 10. 2 Willett, C. and Phillis Cunnington. Handbook of English Mediaeval Costume. London: Faber and Faber LTD., 1969. Pp. 7-26. - 7 - | K e r k h o f could peel them off or put them on if the weather turned hot or cold.3 Women as well as men wore side-less surcoats, so as to be able to reach their belts or money pouches that were on the inside of this garment. These surcoats were also convenient for women, since their loose manufacture allowed for women to wear them even when pregnant, and their large side openings made breast feeding much easier. This loose clothing was more universal than constricting styles as it could fit all body types, either male or female. Loose fitting clothing also fitted the medieval way of clothing manufacture, as only the rich could afford personal tailors, and the poor reused clothing or gave it to others until the clothing was worn out.
Recommended publications
  • Destabilizing Shakespeare: Reimagining Character Design in 1 Henry VI
    Connecticut College Digital Commons @ Connecticut College Self-Designed Majors Honors Papers Self-Designed Majors 2021 Destabilizing Shakespeare: Reimagining Character Design in 1 Henry VI Carly Sponzo Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.conncoll.edu/selfdesignedhp Part of the Literature in English, British Isles Commons, and the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons This Honors Paper is brought to you for free and open access by the Self-Designed Majors at Digital Commons @ Connecticut College. It has been accepted for inclusion in Self-Designed Majors Honors Papers by an authorized administrator of Digital Commons @ Connecticut College. For more information, please contact [email protected]. The views expressed in this paper are solely those of the author. Connecticut College Destabilizing Shakespeare: Reimagining Character Design in 1 Henry VI A Thesis Submitted to the Department of Student-Designed Interdisciplinary Majors and Minors in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree in Costume Design by Carly Sponzo May 2021 Acknowledgements I could not have poured my soul into the following pages had it not been for the inspiration and support I was blessed with from an innumerable amount of individuals and organizations, friends and strangers. First and foremost, I would like to extend the depths of my gratitude to my advisor, mentor, costume-expert-wizard and great friend, Sabrina Notarfrancisco. The value of her endless faith and encouragement, even when I was ready to dunk every garment into the trash bin, cannot be understated. I promise to crash next year’s course with lots of cake. To my readers, Lina Wilder and Denis Ferhatovic - I can’t believe anyone would read this much of something I wrote.
    [Show full text]
  • 15Th C Italian Clothing
    15th C clothing for men and women THL Peryn Rose Whytehorse Barony of the South Downs Meridies February 2015 CAMICIA/CAMISA (M/F). The chemise, made usually of linen, but occasionally of cotton or silk. 1494 In the earlier part of the century, the camicia is a functional washable layer of clothing worn between the skin and the outer woollen or silk garments. However, as the Quattrocento progresses, the chemise, revealed through slits and slashes down the sleeves and the bodice, and around the neckline, becomes more decorated with embroidered bands around the collar and cuffs. There must have been regional variations also; e.g. men's shirts 'a modo di Firenze' (Strozzi, op. Finish inside cit., p. 100). edges of sleeves on both sides 1452-66 1488 Definitions from Dress in Renaissance Italy, 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, printed by Humanities Press: NJ, 1981. 1496 1478 Inventories Monna Bamba 1424 - 7 camicie usate 1476-78 Wedding present to Francesco de Medici 1433 – 17 chamicie Household of Puccio Pucci – 18 camicie da donna 1452-66 1452 1460s 1476-84 1460-64 1460-64 GAMURRA/CAMMURA/CAMORA (F). The Tuscan term for the simple dress worn directly over the woman's chemise (camicia). 1476-84 In the north of Italy, it is known by the terms zupa, zipa or socha. The gamurra is worn by women of all classes. It is both functional and informal, being worn on its own at home, and covered by some form of overgarment such as the cioppa, mantello, pellanda or vestimento out-of-doors or on a more formal occasion.
    [Show full text]
  • Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian the FOCAL PRESS COSTUME TOPICS SERIES
    Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian THE FOCAL PRESS COSTUME TOPICS SERIES Costumes are one of the most important aspects of any production. Th ey are essential tools that create a new reality for both the actor and audience member, which is why you want them to look fl awless! Luckily, we’re here to help with Th e Focal Press Costume Topics Series; off ering books that explain how to design, construct, and accessorize costumes from a variety of genres and time periods. Step-by-step projects ensure you never get lost or lose inspiration for your design. Let us lend you a hand (or a needle or a comb) with your next costume endeavor! Titles in Th e Focal Press Costume Topics Series: Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian Sharon Sobel First published 2013 by Focal Press 70 Blanchard Rd Suite 402 Burlington, MA 01803 Simultaneously published in the UK by Focal Press 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN Focal Press is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2013 Taylor & Francis Th e right of Sharon Sobel to be identifi ed as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.
    [Show full text]
  • A Woman's Graffito Drawing from Hagia Sophia
    Зборник радова Византолошког института LVI, 2019. Zbornik radova Vizantološkog instituta LVI, 2019. UDC: 7.041:271.2-526.62 726.54(495.02):271.2“11/12“ https://doi.org/10.2298/ZRVI1956233S CHRISTINA SAVOVA New Bulgarian University, Sofa, Bulgaria [email protected] THOMAS TOMOV New Bulgarian University, Sofa, Bulgaria [email protected] A WOMAN’S GRAFFITO DRAWING FROM HAGIA SOPHIA, CONSTANTINOPLE* This paper sheds light on the graffito-drawing from Hagia Sophia. It mainly discussed the possibility that the graffito presented a Western medieval woman donating a chalice. It is also very probable that the graffito was a work of the th15 century, produced by a anonymous skilled author, who must have been familiar with the woman’s fashion of his time. Keywords: graffiti, drawing, medieval clothes, medieval fashion, Hagia Sophia, dea- coness, medieval headdress, gown One of the places with abundance of graffiti is the Great Church or the Church of the Holy Wisdom – the famous sixth-century domed church, which was built by emperor Justinian the Great. It was considered to be one of the wonders of the world and the most important religious edifice in the city of Constantinople. Hagia Sophia was a focus of God’s blessing with tales of wonders and miracles, well-known beyond the borders of Byzantium.1 In the Great Church, graffiti comprised inscriptions in * We would like to thank Metropolitan Kallistos, ass. prof. Fr. Andrej Posternak, Fr. Michael Zheltov, prof. Maureen Miller, prof. Gary Macy, prof. Valerie Karras and prof. Maria Parani, for their help- ful advice and suggestions.
    [Show full text]
  • Acta Histriae
    ACTA HISTRIAE ACTA ACTA HISTRIAE 23, 2015, 4 23, 2015, 4 ISSN 1318-0185 Cena: 11,00 EUR UDK/UDC 94(05) ACTA HISTRIAE 23, 2015, 4, pp. 591-822 ISSN 1318-0185 ACTA HISTRIAE • 23 • 2015 • 4 ISSN 1318-0185 UDK/UDC 94(05) Letnik 23, leto 2015, številka 4 Odgovorni urednik/ Direttore responsabile/ Darko Darovec Editor in Chief: Uredniški odbor/ Gorazd Bajc, Furio Bianco (IT), Flavij Bonin, Dragica Čeč, Lovorka Comitato di redazione/ Čoralić (HR), Darko Darovec, Marco Fincardi (IT), Darko Friš, Aleksej Board of Editors: Kalc, Borut Klabjan, John Martin (USA), Robert Matijašić (HR), Darja Mihelič, Edward Muir (USA), Egon Pelikan, Luciano Pezzolo (IT), Jože Pirjevec, Claudio Povolo (IT), Vida Rožac Darovec, Andrej Studen, Marta Verginella, Salvator Žitko Urednik/Redattore/ Editor: Gorazd Bajc Prevodi/Traduzioni/ Translations: Petra Berlot (angl., it., slo) Lektorji/Supervisione/ Language Editor: Petra Berlot (angl., it., slo) Stavek/Composizione/ Typesetting: Grafis trade d.o.o. Izdajatelj/Editore/ Published by: Zgodovinsko društvo za južno Primorsko / Società storica del Litorale© Sedež/Sede/Address: Zgodovinsko društvo za južno Primorsko, SI-6000 Koper-Capodistria, Kreljeva 3 / Via Krelj 3, tel.: +386 5 6273-296; fax: +386 5 6273-296; e-mail: [email protected]; www.zdjp.si Tisk/Stampa/Print: Grafis trade d.o.o. Naklada/Tiratura/Copies: 300 izvodov/copie/copies Finančna podpora/ Javna agencija za raziskovalno dejavnost Republike Slovenije / Slovenian Supporto finanziario/ Research Agency Financially supported by: Slika na naslovnici/ Foto di copertina/ Picture on the cover: Saint Christopher Cynocephalus, represented with a wolf's head. Russian lubok (cca. 1700). File:ChristopherLubok.jpg. From Wikimedia Commons.
    [Show full text]
  • Is a Set of Guidelines on the Historical Costume of Duke Siemovit’S Mazowiecka Banner
    The following "Red Booklet" is a set of guidelines on the historical costume of Duke Siemovit’s Mazowiecka Banner. All of the information contained therein relate to what is required internally in our camp, and they are the choice of iconography and sources from the vast information about costumes from the period of our interest – i.e. 1390-1410. All kinds of questions and uncertainties related to the discrepancies between the guidelines of the Siemovit Banner and other Grunwald banners – should be cleared up within own camp, with persons involved in the control of the historical costume and with their costumography choices. Commander of the Siemovit’s Banner Małgorzta Rekosz-Piekarska, Red Booklet II Introduction to the reconstruction of the costume Reconstructing dresses of the bygone era we must rely on historical sources. The most reliable, are of course clothes preserved to our days, which we can, which we can freely examine and take to pieces. Unfortunately, the fabric does not stand up well to the passage of time, therefore from the late Middle Ages a little survived to our times. We therefore need to supplement our knowledge both with iconography as well as written sources. In the art of the turn of the 14th and 15th century there are plenty of depictions, which may become useful in reconstruction of the mediaeval clothing. Unfortunately there also is a lot of confusion and traps. Firstly, all depictions mainly show the higher society (founders and their entourage). Secondly the artists of this period often simplified the look of the clothing; there also was a custom of borrowing whole compositions or types of presentations from other artists (famous medieval patterns).
    [Show full text]
  • Fashion,Costume,And Culture
    FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 2: Early Cultures Across2 the Globe SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos.
    [Show full text]
  • The Complete Costume Dictionary
    The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward.
    [Show full text]
  • 17 Small Historic Towns in Austria
    17 SMALL 2021/2022 HISTORIC TOWNS IN AUSTRIA SEE EXPERIENCE ENJOY SMALL HISTORIC TOWNS www.khs.info SMALL HISTORIC TOWNS WHAT MAKES US STAND OUT: Well-preserved historic townscapes Heritage buildings and landmarks Spectacular surrounding landscapes Scheduled tours with qualified guides Varied, high-quality events and shows Traditional weekly markets Traditional crafts in that you can experience first-hand Tourist attractions and experiences Lively cultural programmes Refined cuisine Unique shopping Medieval town charters Populations of less than 45,000 SMALL HISTORIC TOWNS IN AUSTRIA Stadtplatz 27 | 4402 Steyr | Austria Tel. +43 72 52 522 90 [email protected] | www.khs.info EXPLORE EACH TOWN IN 48 HOURS ... SEE EXPERIENCE ENJOY EDITORIAL / MAP 4 – 5 1 BADEN bei WIEN The furnished garden 6 – 13 2 BAD ISCHL Tradition and modernity 14 – 21 3 BAD RADKERSBURG Walking and cycling 22 – 29 4 BLUDENZ A wealth of possibilities 30 – 37 5 BRAUNAU am INN Charm and comfort on the Inn river 38 – 45 6 BRUCK a. d. MUR Nature and culture combined 46 – 53 7 FREISTADT A Varied History 54 – 61 8 GMUNDEN A stylish town of leisure 62 – 69 9 HALLEIN A multifacted insider tip 70 – 77 10 HARTBERG The garden town 78 – 85 11 JUDENBURG Flying high 86 – 93 12 KUFSTEIN Cobblestones meet modern urban flair 94 – 101 13 LEOBEN Attractive town with great views 102 – 109 14 RADSTADT A break with a view 110 – 117 15 SCHÄRDING Baroque treasure trove 118 – 125 16 STEYR When culture’s your fancy 126 – 133 17 WOLFSBERG Castles, mountains and wolves 134 – 141 AUSTRIA CLASSIC TOUR 142 – 143 3 Markus Deisenberger, freelance journalist; lives and works in Salzburg and Vienna Dear travellers, connoisseurs and friends of the SMALL HISTORIC TOWNS of Austria, A5 It typically takes about two days for visitors and tourists to Freistadt Wien get to know a town.
    [Show full text]
  • 1410 AD Houppelande
    Martha Rice Caitlin nic Raighne Dun Ard, Calontir 1410 AD Houppelande Houppelande of royal blue silk noil lined in Kelly green silk noil. Rounded, flat collar also of silk and self belt. Under dress of gold colored silk. Hair braided on each side then wrapped around ears. Headdress of gold colored silk formed into a roll with a brooch on center front. Shoes are soft-soled, pointed poulaines worn with wooden pattens. Accessories consist of a long string of beads draping from one shoulder and a black leather belt belted below the bustline. Jewelry consists of finger rings. No earrings appear in any of the literature. www.caitlinsclothing.com 1410 AD Houppelande © Martha Rice 2009 Martha Rice Caitlin nic Raighne Dun Ard, Calontir GENERAL NOTES Germany influenced fashions at this time. There was also a lot of influence from the Franco-Burgundian area shown by the use of novelties like the folly bells and jeweled collars. The under garment is not under discussion here. It is however typically a Gothic fitted dress and laces in the front To my knowledge, there are no existing houppelandes. I also could not find any pattern books, tailor's notes or household accounts written during the fifteenth century that discusses construction. There are several theories about how the houppelandes were made. The most common pattern is like a modern dress with a relatively closely cut neck, shoulder, and arm, and then a wide angle going to the hemline from under the arm. The trouble with this is that many of the illustrations show fullness / pleats pointing toward the shoulder line, and this manner of construction doesn't give that effect.
    [Show full text]
  • Fashion,Costume,And Culture
    FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 3: European Culture from the Renaissance to the Modern3 Era SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos.
    [Show full text]
  • Gothic Costumes
    Gothic Costume Author Kenneth Clark described the Gothic period: “a world of chivalry, courtesy and Virginia S. Wimberley romance, a world in which serious things CTD 448: History of were done with a sense of play.” Costume Clothing Textiles and Interior Design Romance Dates Power of love can enlist and subdue all the forces of nature Period can be divided into Early and Late Two emblems of lust and ferocity - or High Gothic unicorn and lion Dates vary among sources: Russell Chapter 8 – A. D. 1150-1325 Notion of ideal love - irresistible power of Russell Chapter 9 – A. D. 1325-1425 gentleness and beauty Others Utter subjection to an almost Early Gothic 1200 – 1350 unapproachable woman; belief that no Late Gothic 1350 - 1485 sacrifice was too great; whole lifetime devoted to paying court or suffering for her Courtship Stages with colors Cult of the Virgin Green- secretly languishing - (Feignaire) One hardly knows if a medieval love lyric White - declared his love but pays is addressed to the poet’s mistress or the attention to another in hopeful longing Virgin Mary (Preiaire) Madonnas of the 13th Century are Red - favorable hearing and services ravishingly beautiful and delicate accepted - as vassal of love (Entendaire) Yellow -Returned favors from the lady to what extent concerns no one 1 Marriage Courtly Love Love match is the invention of the 18th Subject of lyrics and long, long stories in Century prose and verse Medieval marriage was entirely a matter Gothic literature added to European of property consciousness that cluster of ideas and Manual on how to treat women or bring sentiments which surround the words up daughters by the Knight of the Tower “romantic” and “romance” Landry was written in 1370 and was read as a sort of textbook till the 16th C.
    [Show full text]